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  1. #201
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    Too much text, not enough pix!

  2. #202
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    @NoStyle
    Perfectly explained!

    I am so Looking forward to building and riding my new Rune!

    Workscomponents ran a whole batch of 1.5deg zs44/zs56 headsets for 1 1/8" steerers when I asked for IT (tapered and 1.5deg is only possible with an upper external cup). Just drop them a line if you need one. They should have them on Stock.

    //edit
    my smartphone is Messing with case-sensitivity.... Sorry.

  3. #203
    ptd
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    That looks correct is correct if running a tapered fork. Can I ask what you intend to use the angle set for and what for you will be running?
    Grazetourer's idea sounds tempting.
    Builttoride, Anything to consider from the bike design side that you would advise against the idea?

    I'll be building the bike on the burly side for gravity enduro racing with 650b, I'm used to 63.5ish on the DH, and 65 stock on the rune does not phase me for climbing/trail stuff.

    I'm tempted to run offset cups and leave the dropout in slackest setting for the DH style days...

    Last edited by ptd; 11-17-2012 at 03:19 PM.

  4. #204
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    @ptd
    I am pretty sure that slackening the HA will have no negative influence on the performance of the bike, especially if you're already used to very slack HAs. Go for it!

  5. #205
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    @ptd
    The question is, wether the RUNE is that kind of bike you should ride with that slack angle.
    From my experience, the wheelbase grows 1,25cm with every degree. So riding with another -2 degrees adds 2,5cm to the lenght, resulting in over 1205mm wheelbase. Much too long for my taste.
    I prefer 1700-1800mm. But yours will surely be planted on the downhills like an oil tanker and the turn radius of a truck when it comes to slower sections....

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    (...)and the turn radius of a truck when it comes to slower sections....
    The short chainstays should avoid that... (for sure the bike will be a little bit less agile, but depending on what you want to do with the bike it's no big deal).

  7. #207
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    as same with dh, slack angle would be not too much if one rides fast enough

    yaw mode

  8. #208
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    today I tried the rune on an alpine tour... @ grazertourer: veitsch, sooo herrlich...

    I am really starting to dig the new Rune V2... it is really really working great on tech stuff...I had it in the middle setting with 170mm, and this seems to be an ace setup... slack enough for what I am able to ride, and once the trail opens up, it is really in its element...
    bb-height seems to be spot on for the rooty, rocky trails...

    turning circle is not my problem... first, it is not unusually big, and second, we use driving techniques for switchbacks like pivoting around the front wheel, and for this, wheelsbase is not really important...

    guys dont talk about couple of mm in theory, just go out and ride

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    today I tried the rune on an alpine tour... @ grazertourer: veitsch, sooo herrlich...

    I am really starting to dig the new Rune V2... it is really really working great on tech stuff...I had it in the middle setting with 170mm, and this seems to be an ace setup... slack enough for what I am able to ride, and once the trail opens up, it is really in its element...
    bb-height seems to be spot on for the rooty, rocky trails...

    turning circle is not my problem... first, it is not unusually big, and second, we use driving techniques for switchbacks like pivoting around the front wheel, and for this, wheelsbase is not really important...

    guys dont talk about couple of mm in theory, just go out and ride


    Not long ago I tried a rival to the RUNE in L and XL. The L was a little short in REACH, the XL was spot on. BUT the XL had -1 angle set and therefore 1200mm wheelbase while the L had standard 1170mm. The difference was enormous, when riding slower, technical stuff. I did not like it very much. We are not talking about mm but 3 cm, and sometimes they count!!

  10. #210
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    @malcolmx
    Aaaaaaaah, I am feeling a little jealous right now. I caught a cold on my last ride, so I've been sitting in front of the TV the whole week end.


    Enjoy it, Max!

    //edit
    "pivoting around the front wheel"

    That reminds me of what someone said when I did the whole enchilada last year. "he just turned his bike on the front wheel! It looked so easy! I'venever seen such sick ridin' before!"
    Okay, enough...

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    ... From my experience, the wheelbase grows 1,25cm with every degree. So riding with another -2 degrees adds 2,5cm to the lenght ...
    That numbers are definitely wrong! Of course it depends on the A-2-C of the Fork. With Forks like 160er Lyriks and Foxes the Wheelbase gets longer around 3-4 mm per half Degree. It might be around 4-5 mm with 170er Forks. On my Wildcard with 160er Lyrik and -1,5 Deg Angleset the Wheelbase got lengthened to 12 mm. Just for the record ...

    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    ... guys dont talk about couple of mm in theory, just go out and ride
    Aiiiight

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    That numbers are definitely wrong! Of course it depends on the A-2-C of the Fork. With Forks like 160er Lyriks and Foxes the Wheelbase gets longer around 3-4 mm per half Degree. It might be around 4-5 mm with 170er Forks. On my Wildcard with 160er Lyrik and -1,5 Deg Angleset the Wheelbase got lengthened to 12 mm. Just for the record ...


    Aiiiight
    Maybe I am wrong, but I measured that fact with an CAD program. Donīt know how you get to your numbers....?? In my case there are already 3-4mm difference on top of the HT from the middle position to the angled position. IMHO that must be a lot more down the whole fork and the wheel....

    But thatīs just theory. If it is OK for you - enjoy the ride....just wanted to mention that.

  13. #213
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    AisaBike
    Banshee Dealer

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    ... Donīt know how you get to your numbers....?? ...
    Real-world-measurements my friend.
    Wildcard Size M with and Lyrik has 1135 mm Wheelbase, which is inline with the Banshee-Geo-Charts. With -1,5 Deg the Wheelbase is now 1148 (+13 mm), which is inline with the Info I got from Rick from Works-Components.
    You run an CC Angleset, which has, as far as I know, a centric lower Cup and an excentric upper Cup, so that might affect numbers a bit more, especially ETT and Wheelbase. The Works are excentric on both Cups which levels the Steerer through the Headtube ...

    @ Atala: This Built will end up as sexy as possible

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Real-world-measurements my friend.
    Wildcard Size M with and Lyrik has 1135 mm Wheelbase, which is inline with the Banshee-Geo-Charts. With -1,5 Deg the Wheelbase is now 1148 (+13 mm), which is inline with the Info I got from Rick from Works-Components.
    You run an CC Angleset, which has, as far as I know, a centric lower Cup and an excentric upper Cup, so that might affect numbers a bit more, especially ETT and Wheelbase. The Works are excentric on both Cups which levels the Steerer through the Headtube ...

    @ Atala: This Built will end up as sexy as possible
    on my V1 Rune, the wheelbase grew around 14mm with -1.5° angleset... that matches with what you are saying...and the steepest setup shortens the wheelbase anyways...

    @ GT: I was punished for the tour today: cought a cold, and could not go to work, for the first time ever...

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    on my V1 Rune, the wheelbase grew around 14mm with -1.5° angleset... that matches with what you are saying...and the steepest setup shortens the wheelbase anyways...
    Oh well, usually I donīt do Gramm-counting or haggle with 0,x Deg Headangles or CS-Millimeters, as almost everything will be newly defined and experienced with the new Ride.
    Except Seattube-Length: It has to be 43 cm as the longest

  17. #217
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    Rune v2

    Hola Adrian your bike looks amazing, I have my new rune v2 frame sitting behind desk at home for 3 weeks now, I had a hard fall a couple of weeks before I got it, and I have to wait till mid february to be able to ride again ... i cant wait!
    Anyway my frame looks amazing as it is now, but watching this one already built it looks way cooler!!!

  18. #218
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    Hi guys,

    Here is mine :


  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by CALULO View Post
    Hola Adrian your bike looks amazing, I have my new rune v2 frame sitting behind desk at home for 3 weeks now, I had a hard fall a couple of weeks before I got it, and I have to wait till mid february to be able to ride again ... i cant wait!
    Anyway my frame looks amazing as it is now, but watching this one already built it looks way cooler!!!
    Thanks for this words CALULO. Iīm very proud of my bike.. itīs a weapon

    Hope to see yours soon!

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Oh well, usually I donīt do Gramm-counting or haggle with 0,x Deg Headangles or CS-Millimeters, as almost everything will be newly defined and experienced with the new Ride.
    Except Seattube-Length: It has to be 43 cm as the longest
    I do not want to decrease your fun, but I also do not want to be prooved as a fool so fast.
    Take this formula for triangles. You were given two sides and three angles.
    The lenght of b is what has to be calculated.

    I am not the best in math, but when I am not wrong, than the result of -1 degree is exact 1,52 cm.

    b = a * sin(β) / sin(α)

    b=79*sin(24)/sin(66)
    b=79*0,406/0,9135
    b=35

    b=79*sin(23)/sin(67)
    b=79*0,390/0,920
    b=33,48


    Now go out and have fun riding your bikes....

  21. #221
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    Banshee Final Review

    Itīs time to prepare an extensive review about how the Rune v2 performs in the trails and in general in Enduro Routes. Point out that this review is based on my personal opinion (so probably a little bit subjective) and regarding the trails where I use to ride (Rocky trails with some steep sections... typically European Enduro ) may differ to the other opinions.

    Geometry

    The geometry of this bike shows how the market is developing a “new” standart in the word of Enduro bikes. Steep seat angles, really aggressive direction angles, long wheelbases, low bottom brackets and many more things like these are going to be a standard in not much time for sure. Itīs such a mini dh bikes with pedal efficiency and light weight…
    Talking about this bike, I will explain my feelings with the L size of the Rune highlighting the main points.

    Seat angle  From 73 to 74 degrees the pedal position itīs just perfect, the other enduro bikes right now are building up with 72-71,š degrees and itīs not enough. The good thing of having this kind of angle itīs when the things getting steep… really steep… this position inside the bike provides you a good situation to force the pedaling without losing traction in the front wheel. So in this part, the Rune itīs really well made.

    Direction angle  65 to 66 with 160mm fork and even more with 170mm fork. This feature simply kills the other bikes in this aspect. The way you can affront the hard sections and steeped areas is such a easy thing that you can barely believe it… ( In general… ) So 10 over 10 to banshee to be able to provide ours to adjust the geometry depending on our aim

    Wheelbase  Wheelbase is well know by most of us. A bigger wheelbase a more stable bike… but.. in this case, itīs the right measure… not to long but not to short… just exactly what this bikes requires . 1180mm in the Large size ensure a good trip when itīs time to go down and at the same time itīs not excessive at the time itīs the moment to get corners or rocky tricky sections… for example, liteville 901 have 1.200 wheelbase in Size Large, too much for an endure bike… this wheelbase itīs right .

    Flipchips  this option itīs great to change the bike performance depending the are are you going to ride… Bikepark  LOW // Routes  Neutral or High, depending of your fork length … but IMO HIGH position for 170mm forks in the front and NEUTRAL position for 160mm forks.

    Reach and Stack  For me itīs good enough… specially the stack… you can feel going inside the bike and go relax in the downhill’s due to the good reach and low stack.
    chainstay  itīs good, 426mm ensure you a easy bike to move around the narrow trails and the bike feels easy to manage and move in difficult situations

    Thereīre more variables but the critical I think are these actually.


    Climbing Up

    When itīs time to climb to the summit of a mountain, the seat angle and the pedal efficiency are at least, fundamental to achieve our objective. In this area, this bike simply rocks… itīs outstanding… regarding itīs a enduro bike, the pedal efficiency in this bike itīs the best, probably this is the main point of this bike and this feature explains all about the Rune. With an antisquat above 100% and good pedal kickback (13,5) I can ensure thatīs this Rune pedals like any other bike in this segment (only the Norco Range is similar).

    About the pedal kickback itīs mandatory to know thatīs itīs low taking in account the efficiency of this system. Always a high pedal efficiency systems brings a high pedal kickback.. (the ibis mojo hd pedals a little bit worse that this bike and the pedal kickb itīs 14-14,5 so itīs higher than the Rune)

    So the good geometry plus the pedal efficiency transforms this bike in a real climber.

    Antisquat
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    Pedal Kickback
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    The downhill part it will be longer so I will post it tomorrow

    Hope you liked it!

    pd: Some photos...
    pd: Iīve recently change the tires... Ibex onza dh 2.40 freeride version and High Roller 2 Exo protection.. Simply perfect!

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-dsc01552.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-dsc01510.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_7203.jpg

    And this is what will the bike look when I get the correct spring in Lbs for my weight... KILLER!!!!

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img-20121114-wa0000.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img-20121114-wa0002.jpg

  22. #222
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    @T.PEDRO

    Very nice bike. This is how mine would look like, except I would like to have a black fork on it.
    Not many black ones around? Maybe because of the white rallye-stripes??

  23. #223
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    @ kalkhoffpink
    Haha, Iīm for sure no one to proove you as a fool ...
    Ok, the Wildcard has a Wheelbase of 1164 mm with 545 A2C-Fork in Size L. Now take a proper Measurement with your -1 Deg CC-Angleset - do you have a WB of 1176,5 mm?
    If so than the olī spicy Trail-Shreddy is a fool ...

    @ AdrianoMTB
    Nice writeup
    And yes, High Roller 2 Exo Protection is a great Tire, same as the Onza Ibex, which I have in 2.35 FR.

  24. #224
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    Ok after looking for the last 4 days I am ready to pull my F@#King hair out....can someone please actually just post up a link for a site that has the correct Cane Creak Head set in stock. I see tons with the race crown being 30 but none that have the race crown at 40.

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Ok after looking for the last 4 days I am ready to pull my F@#King hair out....can someone please actually just post up a link for a site that has the correct Cane Creak Head set in stock. I see tons with the race crown being 30 but none that have the race crown at 40.
    Buy Bike Zero Stack - Tops - Bottoms and more at Bike Shop Liquidators

    You need the bottom (3rd from left in top row), and any of the ZS44 tops listed below it.

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