Page 8 of 32 FirstFirst ... 45678910111218 ... LastLast
Results 701 to 800 of 3129
  1. #701
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    Fun!
    Sorry about one more clearance question. Is that 650B Hans Dampf 2.35" in a 26" Lyrik? Good clearance?

  2. #702
    ptd
    ptd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by Gurterno View Post
    Sorry about one more clearance question. Is that 650B Hans Dampf 2.35" in a 26" Lyrik? Good clearance?
    It's a x-fusion vengeance, plenty of clearance.

  3. #703
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jncarpenter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    6,819
    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    Fun!
    Dialed (minus the flats )!


  4. #704
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2,169
    Quote Originally Posted by Gurterno View Post
    Sorry about one more clearance question. Is that 650B Hans Dampf 2.35" in a 26" Lyrik? Good clearance?
    Here is a 650B Pacenti Neo Moto 2.3 in a Lyric fork. You get about 3-4mm. HD 2.35 is slightly taller IIRC (need to check the 650B forum) and may not fit with clearance without some arch grinding. There is a new Vee Rubber Trail Taker 2.4" which is about the same height as the Neo Moto but fatter with nice wrap around knobs. About $50 and good reviews so far.

    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  5. #705
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jgusta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    2,934
    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    Here is a 650B Pacenti Neo Moto 2.3 in a Lyric fork. You get about 3-4mm. HD 2.35 is slightly taller IIRC (need to check the 650B forum) and may not fit with clearance without some arch grinding. There is a new Vee Rubber Trail Taker 2.4" which is about the same height as the Neo Moto but fatter with nice wrap around knobs. About $50 and good reviews so far.

    I imagine a low profile rim and tire that isn't super tall is the way to go and should offer ample clearance with Lyrik and 650b. Like Stans Flow EX rims (only 18.6mm tall) on standard 2.3 tires (Maxxis, Specialized come to mind). Schwalbe tires are pretty tall and definitely a lot of rims out there that are much taller as well. I also really liked Schwalbe tread, I think the best casings on the market, but stayed away due to tall height and wanting a lower BB in the past. With Stan's Flow EX on Spesh 2.3 tires, my BB is just below 13.5" in neutral setting on the Rune V2, whereas typical is 13.7".
    Ride On!

  6. #706
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    476
    What is the maximum rear disc size on V2 Rune? 150mm dropouts, if that is of any importance.

  7. #707
    mtbr member
    Reputation: socalMX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    2,275
    Does anyone feel cramped in the cockpit on a large? I ride a large Yeti and the top tube is the same length as a XL Rune! I want to pull the trigger but not sure on the XL due to the longer seat tube! I am 6-1 with a long reach and like nothing longer than a 50mm stem! I'm hoping the actual "feel" is better than what the numbers say on the large!

  8. #708
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jgusta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    2,934
    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Does anyone feel cramped in the cockpit on a large? I ride a large Yeti and the top tube is the same length as a XL Rune! I want to pull the trigger but not sure on the XL due to the longer seat tube! I am 6-1 with a long reach and like nothing longer than a 50mm stem! I'm hoping the actual "feel" is better than what the numbers say on the large!
    I imagine the large should do you fine. I came off a Yeti as well (med SB66) to a Rune V2 and the eff TT of the Yeti is 1.5" longer, but cockpit feel almost identical with same 50mm stem due to longer reach on V2. I am finding the Rune V2 to be more comfortable while pedalling in and out of saddle, whereas I thought for sure I would be a bit crammed with pedalling in the saddle. FWIW, I did have to push the saddle back on the rails about 5/8" and rolled the bars forward a smidge. The bike fits like a glove at 5'10" (w/shoes) and I was considering a large for myself due to TT measurement, but sure glad I went medium, even though I am running an inch more post while climbing than on previous bike.
    Ride On!

  9. #709
    mtbr member
    Reputation: highrustler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    456
    Quote Originally Posted by jncarpenter View Post
    Dialed (minus the flats )!
    Gonna build that exact bike, a few questions if you don't mind.

    What's it weigh? Also, where did you get the Vengeance and what model is it?

    Thanks,
    James

  10. #710
    ptd
    ptd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by highrustler View Post
    Gonna build that exact bike, a few questions if you don't mind.

    What's it weigh? Also, where did you get the Vengeance and what model is it?

    Thanks,
    James
    Not sure about weight, no scales in the house. It pedals really well regardless.
    The fork is 2012 HLR air. Good performance, got them through my LBS (Ireland), UK distributor. They (distributor) wanted to add a 10mm travel reducer but I asked them not to based on feedback from x-fusion, there is plenty of crown clearance at bottom out (650 b).

    The bike surprises me how good it is, you'll have a blast. Easy to set up how you'd like it to behave.
    Last edited by ptd; 01-27-2013 at 03:36 PM.

  11. #711
    mtbr member
    Reputation: socalMX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    2,275
    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    I imagine the large should do you fine. I came off a Yeti as well (med SB66) to a Rune V2 and the eff TT of the Yeti is 1.5" longer, but cockpit feel almost identical with same 50mm stem due to longer reach on V2. I am finding the Rune V2 to be more comfortable while pedalling in and out of saddle, whereas I thought for sure I would be a bit crammed with pedalling in the saddle. FWIW, I did have to push the saddle back on the rails about 5/8" and rolled the bars forward a smidge. The bike fits like a glove at 5'10" (w/shoes) and I was considering a large for myself due to TT measurement, but sure glad I went medium, even though I am running an inch more post while climbing than on previous bike.
    Exactly what I wanted to hear! Is the reach due the the BB being further back? I'm hoping to get a demo this week!

  12. #712
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jgusta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    2,934
    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Exactly what I wanted to hear! Is the reach due the the BB being further back? I'm hoping to get a demo this week!
    Yes, and why TT measurment is kind of irrelevant on sizing on this particular bike. Hope you get a chance to ride one. It really is a great AM bike. It felt a little awkard climbing on it at first due to slacker front end than what I was used to (too rear wheel biased for good climbing position). But, changed it back to neutral setting and bike motors up the trail if you got the legs, and completely destroys the descents. I am finding myself falling more and more in love with this ride the more I ride it. A true AM bike in my opinion.
    Ride On!

  13. #713
    mtbr member
    Reputation: darkslide18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,065
    Out for a Sunday ride. This bike hauls ass. Stuff I used slow up to roll down I am now just launching off of. Think I finally have this bike figured out.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune.jpg  


  14. #714
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    428
    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    Out for a Sunday ride. This bike hauls ass. Stuff I used slow up to roll down I am now just launching off of. Think I finally have this bike figured out.

    Nice!

  15. #715
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    31

    New question here.

    Here is my new Rune
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-image.jpg  


  16. #716
    biking is fun
    Reputation: climbingbubba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,349
    If anyone is having buyers remorse with their new Large Rune then let me know ha ha. I really want one of these things. Once my DH bike sells I will be placing my order.

  17. #717
    mtbr member
    Reputation: socalMX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    2,275
    Quote Originally Posted by climbingbubba View Post
    If anyone is having buyers remorse with their new Large Rune then let me know ha ha. I really want one of these things. Once my DH bike sells I will be placing my order.
    Me too! Looking for a ano black in large! Was told the next batch is sitting in a container on a ship somewher in the ocean!

  18. #718
    mtbr member
    Reputation: qbert2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,226
    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Me too! Looking for a ano black in large! Was told the next batch is sitting in a container on a ship somewher in the ocean!
    hopefully they meant "on" the ocean, otherwise there are gonna be some very disappointed people out there

    you could always get a chili to compliment that delirium

  19. #719
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    31

    my new rune

    blue!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-1la-foto.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2la-foto.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-3la-foto.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-4la-foto.jpg  


  20. #720
    Cannonball!
    Reputation: coiler-d's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    515
    Nice build, kind of wish I would have got blue. I like the looks of the brown bars.

  21. #721
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    169
    Hey there,

    I'd like to use 3x10 with aShimano Derailleur. I have a FD-m980 which is a Direct Mount, but no e-type. As far as I understand, I cannot use this one, right? Can anyone suggest a derailleur which is known to work (I know about the Srams, but I'd prefer Shimano).
    Then: I'm planning to use my 150 mm Fox Talas (tapered). Can anyone suggest a headset? Would it be better to use one with an external cup?

  22. #722
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    111
    Build Up my bike a touch early with my Van 180 and took it for a spin.

    The first 15 minutes sucked. I chose a fairly tech climbing trail, I walked alot. then I really started riding it more like a XC bike and the then it started climbing.

    Then I climbed it up to a buff berm jump trail. First thing I noticed this thing carries speed without effort, it's beautiful.

    Then I took it to a chundery trail again rode that like a champ.

    Steep Tech LIKE A BOSS

    Tight Switch back LIKE A BOSS

    my old van 180 NOT LIKE A BOSS blew up the damper. I have a van 180 pogo stick now.

    Can't wait to get my Talas, I want more

  23. #723
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ryan_daugherty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,775
    Quote Originally Posted by Resnick View Post
    Build Up my bike a touch early with my Van 180 and took it for a spin.

    The first 15 minutes sucked. I chose a fairly tech climbing trail, I walked alot. then I really started riding it more like a XC bike and the then it started climbing.

    Then I climbed it up to a buff berm jump trail. First thing I noticed this thing carries speed without effort, it's beautiful.

    Then I took it to a chundery trail again rode that like a champ.

    Steep Tech LIKE A BOSS

    Tight Switch back LIKE A BOSS

    my old van 180 NOT LIKE A BOSS blew up the damper. I have a van 180 pogo stick now.

    Can't wait to get my Talas, I want more

    I have a 36 Talas 140-180 for sale. In like new condition. PM if you're interested.

    Stoked for the good review od the bike.

  24. #724
    mtbr member
    Reputation: hartwerks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    133

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by MindPatterns View Post
    Hey there,

    I'd like to use 3x10 with aShimano Derailleur. I have a FD-m980 which is a Direct Mount, but no e-type. As far as I understand, I cannot use this one, right? Can anyone suggest a derailleur which is known to work (I know about the Srams, but I'd prefer Shimano).
    Then: I'm planning to use my 150 mm Fox Talas (tapered). Can anyone suggest a headset? Would it be better to use one with an external cup?
    Shimano E-2 front derailleurs will work with the SRAM S3 mount. I can't give you the part numbers offhand, but they shouldn't be too hard to find...

  25. #725
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    169
    But I cannot run 3x10 with E-2 right? Just 2x10 as far as I understand...

    Quote Originally Posted by hartwerks View Post
    Shimano E-2 front derailleurs will work with the SRAM S3 mount. I can't give you the part numbers offhand, but they shouldn't be too hard to find...

  26. #726
    mtbr member
    Reputation: hartwerks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    133

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

    Ah, yes. Sorry, 2x10 only. It seems you may be out of luck looking for a Shimano front derailleur for 3 x 10 for the Rune.

  27. #727
    mtbr member
    Reputation: qbert2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,226
    out of curiosity, why the need for 3x10? 2x10 was designed to essentially replace 3x9. lots of overlapping ratios using 3x10

  28. #728
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    169
    Well, I already got all the components from my previous AM and I thought it would be good to save some money. Any idea if I can re-use my XT crankset by replacing the outer gear with a bashguard?

  29. #729
    mtbr member
    Reputation: qbert2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,226
    Quote Originally Posted by MindPatterns View Post
    Well, I already got all the components from my previous AM and I thought it would be good to save some money. Any idea if I can re-use my XT crankset by replacing the outer gear with a bashguard?
    yes you can, that is not a problem at all. a cheap upgrade would be a bash and a blackspire stinger dual ring guide. unless you have a sram or shimano clutch type derailler already

    Blackspire - STINGER | Blackspire

    https://www.google.com/search?q=blac...w=1423&bih=686

  30. #730
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    169
    Hey there,

    I received my new frame today and before I start building it together I have a few questions:

    1) Within the bottom bracket, I noticed a scratch through the thread. Could this lead to problems later on? it doesn't seem to be very deep but you can definitely feel it with your finger (see uploaded image No 2).

    2) There are a few minor dents within the seat tube - see picture No 1. I don't really care about this as long as this does not pose any structural weakness. Thoughts?

    3) The seat post (Rock Shox Reverb, 30,9mm) slips really easy into the seat tube... looks like there's almost too much tolerance between seat post and seat tube diameter? Had the same problem with a Kona once which made it hard to fix the seat post in one position.

    4) Any advice for the torquening specs of the dropouts? How about the bolts fixing the damper?

    5) Can I adjust any seat posts height to my likes (i.e. pull it out as far as possible, considering the "min insert" marker) or do I have to add a few mm due to the way the seat tube is welded to the top tube?

    Other than that: Can't wait to ride it
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2013-02-01_09-04-06_418.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2013-02-01_09-14-47_911.jpg  

    Last edited by MindPatterns; 02-01-2013 at 05:40 AM.

  31. #731
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    476
    I'd be pretty upset if my frame came with blemishes such as those, to be honest.

    Anyhow - my local distributor told me today, that the frame I ordered in october will be at my doorstep in 3 to 5 weeks. Maybe.

    I raged.

  32. #732
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JansonJanson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    33
    Today i got my Rune v2 in XL - black anodized ...
    i looks so sweet.

    The frame only - without CCDBAir comes in about 3500g, pretty much for an Enduro Frame.
    Including the CCDBAir its 4050g ...

    looking forward to build this beat up.
    target weight is about 14kg / 30.5lbs, but without dropper post.

    we will see
    freedom is the ability to go where you want, when u want

  33. #733
    mtbr member
    Reputation: cave dweller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    363
    Quote Originally Posted by MindPatterns View Post
    Hey there,

    I received my new frame today and before I start building it together I have a few questions:

    1) Within the bottom bracket, I noticed a scratch through the thread. Could this lead to problems later on? it doesn't seem to be very deep but you can definitely feel it with your finger (see uploaded image No 2).
    Doesn't look very deep. Wont be a problem. Just thread the bottom bracket in and it will clean out the threads.

    Quote Originally Posted by MindPatterns View Post
    2) There are a few minor dents within the seat tube - see picture No 1. I don't really care about this as long as this does not pose any structural weakness. Thoughts?
    Cant see any dents in that picture? Need to remember that anything, included extruded aluminum tubes, are never perfect.

    Quote Originally Posted by MindPatterns View Post
    3) The seat post (Rock Shox Reverb, 30,9mm) slips really easy into the seat tube... looks like there's almost too much tolerance between seat post and seat tube diameter? Had the same problem with a Kona once which made it hard to fix the seat post in one position.
    I have had no problems with the 30.9 reverb on the V2 spitfire.

    Quote Originally Posted by MindPatterns View Post
    5) Can I adjust any seat posts height to my likes (i.e. pull it out as far as possible, considering the "min insert" marker) or do I have to add a few mm due to the way the seat tube is welded to the top tube?
    I always insert a post past the welded area.

  34. #734
    mtbr member
    Reputation: socalMX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    2,275
    I have a large ano black on hold. Can anyone confirm this suspension design does NOT ride like SCs VPP as I disliked the feel of my NomadC!

  35. #735
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MartinS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,517
    The KS link should feel different as it is actually quite different in design than the VPP (no counter rotating top link) so it doesn't have that momentary lack of support in the middle of the stroke as it travels through its S-shaped rear wheel travel path (which is smaller in the VPP2 design). I was actually able to dial in the DHX Air quite well on my Prime proto - a shock with poor support/adjustment in mid travel that is notoriously horrible on VPP bikes. It is closer in concept to shortened 4 bar designs (DW, Maestro, etc).
    I'm sure builttoride will cover this more accurately and correct me on the finer details...

  36. #736
    Cannonball!
    Reputation: coiler-d's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    515
    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    I have a large ano black on hold. Can anyone confirm this suspension design does NOT ride like SCs VPP as I disliked the feel of my NomadC!
    I went from V1 Spitfire to NomadC to V2 Rune, and I prefer the Banshees hands down. The Nomad, for as popular as it is, has some odd behaviors. I know it's good enough for some of the top riders in the world to win on, but it didn't suit my tastes. I don't feel like it worked well with an air shock and I always felt like it slightly hung up on square edge hits. I have had two VPP bikes now and I don't intend to have another.

  37. #737
    mtbr member
    Reputation: socalMX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    2,275
    Great info guys! @ Coiler-d, what size Nomad did you have & your current V2 size? How different of a cockpit feel do they have? I'm also wondering why I can't find more detailed reviews as its been out a while!

  38. #738
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    13

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by coiler-d View Post
    I went from V1 Spitfire to NomadC to V2 Rune, and I prefer the Banshees hands down. The Nomad, for as popular as it is, has some odd behaviors. I know it's good enough for some of the top riders in the world to win on, but it didn't suit my tastes. I don't feel like it worked well with an air shock and I always felt like it slightly hung up on square edge hits. I have had two VPP bikes now and I don't intend to have another.
    Hey coiler-d, how does the v1 Spitfire compare to the Rune V2. Considering the same move but have yet to read a good comparison. I have no doubt that the V2 is a better descender, and is stiffer, that's why I am interested. But am wondering whether it is worth sacrificing the climbing and 'smaller bike' feeling of the Spitfire which is no slouch on the descents.

  39. #739
    mtbr member
    Reputation: highrustler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    456
    Does anyone know where I can find a blue large? Doesn't appear they brought many of this color into the states.

  40. #740
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2,169
    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    I have a large ano black on hold. Can anyone confirm this suspension design does NOT ride like SCs VPP as I disliked the feel of my NomadC!
    I think MartinS is right on the money. Have a look at the following link to the linkage design blogspot from Antonio Osuna. Scroll down to the Banshee Rune and the graphs are nearly identical to the Giant Reign and the Mojo HD. One thing in particular the Banshee and Giant do better is bottom out resistance on the leverage curve than the HD. The little swoop up at the end of the curve for the HD are what makes it bottom out easier and what people complain about on that forum. Easily fixed though by reducing the can volume. KS Link is really good and he very much liked it. Now if you go digging for some Santa Cruz bikes on that blogspot all the curves are very different and the pedaling efficiency is not nearly as good as the Banshee, HD or Giant. The Intense VPP is also more like the Santa Cruz. Banshee nailed it IMHO and is also kind of like the Marin Quad Link 2 design with repositioned links.

    http://www.microsofttranslator.com/b...1_archive.html
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  41. #741
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    412
    Quote Originally Posted by highrustler View Post
    Does anyone know where I can find a blue large? Doesn't appear they brought many of this color into the states.
    I thought I had seen Kieth mention somewhere the Blue were for the first run and the Yellow the second, so you could not get Yellow at first and now that the yellows are being made they are not making blue. I could be talking out of my ass but I thought I saw this somewhere.

  42. #742
    Cannonball!
    Reputation: coiler-d's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    515
    Socal - I am 5'7" and kind of leggier for short dude. I have had Medium in all three bikes. The V1 Spitty and V2 Rune seem to fit similarly and both are longer that the medium NomadC.

    cressa - I have to admit I only have 2 legit rides in on the V2 Rune, but it doesn't feel like it is as good of a climber as my Spitfire was. My Rune is coil front and rear and about 3 lbs heavier though. The Rune is definitely stiff and I haven't even gotten my 142mm drops yet, but I didn't have any complaints with the stiffness of the Spitfire, when everything was in check. I really think it is nearly impossible to have a 6"ish travel bike that soaks everything up yet still climbs excellantly, but I think the Rune is as good as it gets. I am fortunate, partially because of the upgrade program, that I am able to have two bikes this year and have the Rune set up more for the downs and my other bike will be for the XC rides.

  43. #743
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    169
    Quote Originally Posted by cave dweller View Post
    Doesn't look very deep. Wont be a problem. Just thread the bottom bracket in and it will clean out the threads.
    Just installed my BB. Noproblem at alll!

    Is anyone running the CCDB Air without the large Air Volume Spacer which Keith recommends?
    I'll definitely tune my shock with it since I like a more progressive shock, but I was just wondering how it feels after all...

  44. #744
    ptd
    ptd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by MindPatterns View Post
    Is anyone running the CCDB Air without the large Air Volume Spacer which Keith recommends?
    I'll definitely tune my shock with it since I like a more progressive shock, but I was just wondering how it feels after all...
    I used it without any volume spacer the first few rides, now with the large volume. There isn't noticable bottoming without the spacer, but does use full travel a bit too often. With the large volume spacer, same sag and compression settings it sits up a bit more. So it behaves like you'd expect, nice!

  45. #745
    Group Hug Participant
    Reputation: <sL4yEr>RuLz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,112

    650b review please!

    ptd, what do you think so far?

    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    I used it without any volume spacer the first few rides, now with the large volume. There isn't noticable bottoming without the spacer, but does use full travel a bit too often. With the large volume spacer, same sag and compression settings it sits up a bit more. So it behaves like you'd expect, nice!
    Official Chocolate Fountain Spokesman

  46. #746
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,464
    Quote Originally Posted by highrustler View Post
    Does anyone know where I can find a blue large? Doesn't appear they brought many of this color into the states.
    Banshee Rune V2 - NEW - 2013 - Size Large - Pinkbike
    konahonzo

  47. #747
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JansonJanson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    33

    Hope

    finally its done ...

    here is my Rune in XL pretty sweet

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-n9t7uqxp.jpg

    more info´s will come, for now, i must go to sleep
    freedom is the ability to go where you want, when u want

  48. #748
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    17
    Hi guys, long time dweller, first time poster!

    I've been searching for quite some time for a bike that ticks all the boxes and i think the Rune or Spitfire V2 may be it. To give you a bit of an idea of what kind of rider i am, i'm primarily a downhill racer (rode expert in 2009) and my style of riding is smooth - i like to hop obstacles and rather enjoy hitting jumps. My question is, if i was going to have one bike and one bike only, should it be the Spitfire or the Rune? I ride a lot of trail centers but also a fair amount of DH - usually hit the alps once a year. Could the Spitfire handle it or would the Rune be better? There certainly doesn't seem to be much difference in terms of weight between the two.... I currently ride a Trek EX8 with 36's, its ok for most stuff but i'd be afraid to smash out any DH's on it!

    Any help would be much appreciated

  49. #749
    ptd
    ptd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by <sL4yEr>RuLz View Post
    650b review please! ptd, what do you think so far?
    I like it. Simply put it feels like you'd expect, and is close enough to what the various 650b reviews/tests suggest:

    > Repetitive 'medium hits' or chatter - Feels smoother and faster
    > Cornering traction - The jury is out on this, the bike has so many other changes it'd be hard to justify simple 'yes'. But anyway, it feels more like stability increase rather than pure traction, perhaps that's the same thing anyway?
    > Flickable - The bike feels a bit bigger, rather than anything noticeable from the wheels stopping moving the bike around. My build and set-up is 'mini-dh/enduro', it's as capable as my DH rig on the descents while sprinting and changing direction much quicker, so that's a good result. Is it worse? No not for my riding intention - bombing the cr@p out of everything!

    Would I choose 650b over 26inch in hindsight? Yes.
    What does it feel like? It feels like a normal bike with bigger tyres (no magic!).

  50. #750
    _va
    _va is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: _va's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    37
    What will accept the shock-absorber for rune v2 better? Standard CCDBair or The Lounge | Chatter | Introducing the XV ?
    My local spot: http://thespot.pro/

  51. #751
    ptd
    ptd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by _va View Post
    What will accept the shock-absorber for rune v2 better? Standard CCDBair or The Lounge | Chatter | Introducing the XV ?
    Standard in my experience after finding I like the standard with large air volume reducer over no volume reducer.
    The XV would need 3 volume reducers for me!

  52. #752
    on a routine expedition
    Reputation: Marshall Willanholly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,571
    Quote Originally Posted by _va View Post
    What will accept the shock-absorber for rune v2 better? Standard CCDBair or The Lounge | Chatter | Introducing the XV ?

    I noticed in posts from builttoride regarding DBair settings he mentions the Xvol can:

    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride
    Rune spec for the DBair is Xvol can with 1 large volume spacer. Base settings are as follows:

    LSR - 14 clicks in
    LSC - 10 clicks in
    HSR - 2 turns in
    HSC - 2 turns in

  53. #753
    ptd
    ptd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Willanholly View Post
    I noticed in posts from builttoride regarding DBair settings he mentions the Xvol can:
    Interesting... my frame was supplied with 'standard' not XV, so the base settings are for the new XV not supplied 'standard'?

    Not that it matters much, I followed the suggest base then just tuned away..!

    I assumed Xvol in the post from builttoride just mean 'high volume air shock' that the 'standard' DBair can also be referred to as?

    So many internet confusions..

    I must like a progressive shock?!

  54. #754
    Group Hug Participant
    Reputation: <sL4yEr>RuLz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,112
    Nice! Your quick review justifies my my personal predictions on this bike. I've ridden FM's Prime and my initial reaction was it seemed like an "overly solid downhiller's all-mountain bike." Granted, it was oversprung for my weight. I imagine the Rune will feel the same but with a much smaller cockpit.

    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    I like it. Simply put it feels like you'd expect, and is close enough to what the various 650b reviews/tests suggest:

    > Repetitive 'medium hits' or chatter - Feels smoother and faster
    > Cornering traction - The jury is out on this, the bike has so many other changes it'd be hard to justify simple 'yes'. But anyway, it feels more like stability increase rather than pure traction, perhaps that's the same thing anyway?
    > Flickable - The bike feels a bit bigger, rather than anything noticeable from the wheels stopping moving the bike around. My build and set-up is 'mini-dh/enduro', it's as capable as my DH rig on the descents while sprinting and changing direction much quicker, so that's a good result. Is it worse? No not for my riding intention - bombing the cr@p out of everything!

    Would I choose 650b over 26inch in hindsight? Yes.
    What does it feel like? It feels like a normal bike with bigger tyres (no magic!).
    Official Chocolate Fountain Spokesman

  55. #755
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2,169

    650B experience

    Quote Originally Posted by <sL4yEr>RuLz View Post
    ptd, what do you think so far?
    This is a quote from Pink Bike of all places and might be one of the best descriptions I've seen of 650B wheels and the effect they have.

    "The takeaway of a well-designed 650B bike is defined by hundreds of small events over the entire ride that compound the experience, rather than a few shining moments. The wider the variety of terrain, the more one begins to appreciate the concept. An 'ah-ha' 650B moment on the first ride? Probably not, but after few good laps, the advantages start to pop and the 650B begins to feel less like a hybrid and much more like a whole new animal"
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  56. #756
    on a routine expedition
    Reputation: Marshall Willanholly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,571
    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    Interesting... my frame was supplied with 'standard' not XV, so the base settings are for the new XV not supplied 'standard'?

    Not that it matters much, I followed the suggest base then just tuned away..!

    I assumed Xvol in the post from builttoride just mean 'high volume air shock' that the 'standard' DBair can also be referred to as?

    So many internet confusions..

    I must like a progressive shock?!
    I think I've found the source of the confusion. Last year, Cane Creek started offering a high volume inner air can for the CCDB, and I believe this is what builttoride is referring to as the XVol can. CaneCreek Double Barrel Air Owners! - North Shore Mountain Biking Forums

    I think I read somewhere that Cane Creek has been shipping the DBairs with the larger inner air can for a few months now.

  57. #757
    ptd
    ptd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Willanholly View Post
    I think I've found the source of the confusion. Last year, Cane Creek started offering a high volume inner air can for the CCDB, and I believe this is what builttoride is referring to as the XVol can. CaneCreek Double Barrel Air Owners! - North Shore Mountain Biking Forums
    I think I read somewhere that Cane Creek has been shipping the DBairs with the larger inner air can for a few months now.
    Yep that explains it. Wohoo I'm normal again!

  58. #758
    FM
    FM is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: FM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    9,332
    Quote Originally Posted by <sL4yEr>RuLz View Post
    I've ridden FM's Prime and my initial reaction was it seemed like an "overly solid downhiller's all-mountain bike." Granted, it was oversprung for my weight. I imagine the Rune will feel the same but with a much smaller cockpit.
    I'm very curious to try out a Rune 650b as well. Good choice

    The production rune frame will be ~1lb lighter than my Prime proto. I think the sizing on the small will work better for you (My medium prime proto sometimes feels just a bit large for my taste).

    650b = 27.1, so I'd expect it to feel closer to 26 than 29...but then you'll also have a lot more travel both front and rear.

    Should be a good compliment to your bandit29.

  59. #759

  60. #760
    Calm like a Bomb
    Reputation: stunzeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,070

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

    So is the new XLV a better option? I'm buying a CCDBAir and would like to know which one to get?

  61. #761
    The Mountain Bike Life
    Reputation: mudpuppy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1,343
    Yes, it would be the best option for the Rune V2.

  62. #762
    ptd
    ptd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    136
    Ah balz I'm not normal again!

    I'd bet the frames with DBAir have shipped so far with the 'large volume inner can' and 'standard outer can', based on the photos in this thread.

    The sicklines link says
    The new XV can is available as a retrofitable option or it can be purchased installed on a new DBAir.
    It will be available for purchase in March through Independent Bike Shops – or will come spec’ed with the 2013 Banshee Rune, Nicolai Ion 16, Ion 18, Ion 20, Helius AM and the Helius AC 650. Additional OE models will be added in the future as well.


    » Cane Creek – DBAir Gets a High Volume Air Canister – XV - Sick Lines – mountain bike reviews, news, videos | Your comprehensive downhill and freeride mountain bike resource

    Builttoride may have well posted the base settings against the new XV outer can after all!

  63. #763
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,093
    The cane creek website will have base tune settings for both, regular and XV can in time I believe, with dropdown menu to select between them. It will come down to personal preferance, and base tunes are only a very rough guide for you to use as a starting point.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  64. #764
    ptd
    ptd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    136
    Ah good I will sleep well now!

    Here is the cane creek settings page:
    Cane Creek DBAIR Suspension Base Tunes

  65. #765
    Oh no you di'int
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    115
    This is getting out of hand. We have yet another variation to try and decifer?

    I went ahead and purchased a Cane Creek Double Barrel Air at the end of last October for my incoming Rune. At the time as far as I could tell there was only one variation of the CCDBa. Now I come to find out there was a low and high volume internal air can? How does one tell these apart?

    Now, blissfully unaware, I finally get my Rune and build her up and dial in the shock to the base tune and install one large volume spacer. Only now I find out the base tune and recommended air volume spacer were actually for a yet unreleased CCDBa with EXTRA VOLUME! Great...

    So what then is the recommended base tune for the shock that has been out for months? The base tunes on the CC site are now specified as pertaining to the yet unreleased EXTRA VOLUME shock.

    I assume whether I have the small or large volume inner air can i do NOT want to have any volume spacers installed? Maybe I can drill some holes in my air can for EXTRA VOLUME?

    My head hurts. I just want to get this dialed in for when riding season gets here. Its just around the corner.

    PS: What is the address for the submission of the paper warranty registration form? The address printed on the form was incorrect and the letter was returned to me from Canada saying the recipient had moved. Two stamps down the drain. And, SURPRISE, Trident hasn't emailed me back. This was a couple weeks ago now.

  66. #766
    Oh no you di'int
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    115
    I assume an EXTRA VOLUME air can with a large spacer would fall somewhere between the gold and gray lines>


  67. #767
    ptd
    ptd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    136
    This might turn into a tuning thread?
    I'd assume you have the newer larger inner can. At least to save your sanity .
    We most likely all have the large inner can and standard outer can on fairly new shocks.

    With suggested sag and compression/rebound I found the shock felt like it was running too far into the travel considering the terrain/speed, so started upping low/high compression and reducing low/high rebound, after a few rides added the large air volume reducer and now it feels better.
    I do like lots of HSC, so that could contribute to my need for the volume reducer, because it might stop the shock recovering at times.
    It's a 3 minute job to add/remove air volume spacers anyway... Settings depend so much on terrain/speed/style I try to forget the number of clicks and go by feel using the bracketing technique over multiple runs...

  68. #768
    Oh no you di'int
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    115
    Yeah I know it doesn't take long to install the spacer, I installed one already, but holy crap its annoying trying to keep everything straight and figure out what is what.

    PS: EXTRA VOLUME

    PPS: Thanks for the reply.

  69. #769
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    180
    Quote Originally Posted by JansonJanson View Post
    finally its done ...

    here is my Rune in XL pretty sweet

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	n9t7uqxp.jpg 
Views:	832 
Size:	107.4 KB 
ID:	768949

    more info´s will come, for now, i must go to sleep
    Hi Budy

    Watch the tension fo the chain... I´would recommend you to check it again... it seems a little bit broad...

    by the way.. good built!!!!

    pd: What are your measurement¿¿? (tall and inseam in cm please)

  70. #770
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    111
    Does anyone know what the chainline is?

  71. #771
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JansonJanson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    33
    Quote Originally Posted by AdrianoMTB View Post
    Hi Budy

    Watch the tension fo the chain... I´would recommend you to check it again... it seems a little bit broad...

    by the way.. good built!!!!

    pd: What are your measurement¿¿? (tall and inseam in cm please)
    Hei man,

    i know the problem, actuall i am going without the e13 32t srs+ chain device, but without the bashguard, and the taco. I but some carbon leather on the upper device, as close as possible to the chain. In combination with the zee, i had no problems over the winter here in germany, on my spicy.
    But, the chainlength is difficult to get right.
    Now when i am 36 - 32, full compression, the zee is nearly horizontal, its still ok.
    On the lowest 11 - 32, there is minimum tension on the chain.
    If i take the rune to the alps, i want to built on the taco and bashguard. then, the chain would be 2 short, if i take one more chainlink out - i guess so.

    I am 187cm tall, and have an inseam of about somewhere 95-98cm
    freedom is the ability to go where you want, when u want

  72. #772
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dogboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,387
    Quote Originally Posted by Resnick View Post
    Does anyone know what the chainline is?
    Chainline is dictated by whatever crankset you are using.

  73. #773
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    20
    man getting bored of looking at other peoples bikes... still waiting for mine

    my shops not even getting a response on delivery dates now...

  74. #774
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JansonJanson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    33
    Quote Originally Posted by williethewaiter View Post
    man getting bored of looking at other peoples bikes... still waiting for mine

    my shops not even getting a response on delivery dates now...
    i know its hard to wait - for me, i waited about 3,5 Months - but now, i am so happy.
    the waiting pays off, for sure!

    greets
    freedom is the ability to go where you want, when u want

  75. #775
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    95
    Only shocks I've seen so far seem to be the fox CTD and CCDB air, any other good options? Anyone built one with a monarch plus by chance? Or at least know if the monarch plus would work with the rune v2??

  76. #776
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jgusta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    2,934
    Quote Originally Posted by ironxcross View Post
    Only shocks I've seen so far seem to be the fox CTD and CCDB air, any other good options? Anyone built one with a monarch plus by chance? Or at least know if the monarch plus would work with the rune v2??
    I am, a Monarch RC3 plus with HV/low tune which runs pretty good, almost too linear though. Great for the bumps, but alway use all my travel even with adding 20psi from previous bike. As Keith suggested go low tune for plush, mid tune for more compression damping and pedability. He recommends mid level compression tune with low rebound. My Monarch is the opposite with low compression, mid rebound and only run 4 clicks of rebound on it. Bike climb the tech great w/low tune and nice and smooth on the way down, I just manually add some compression for the hits.
    Ride On!

  77. #777
    powered by bacon
    Reputation: helidave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    440
    Quote Originally Posted by ironxcross View Post
    Only shocks I've seen so far seem to be the fox CTD and CCDB air, any other good options? Anyone built one with a monarch plus by chance? Or at least know if the monarch plus would work with the rune v2??
    The Elka is pretty awesome, unless you're dead set on air.

  78. #778
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    I am, a Monarch RC3 plus with HV/low tune which runs pretty good, almost too linear though. Great for the bumps, but alway use all my travel even with adding 20psi from previous bike. As Keith suggested go low tune for plush, mid tune for more compression damping and pedability. He recommends mid level compression tune with low rebound. My Monarch is the opposite with low compression, mid rebound and only run 4 clicks of rebound on it. Bike climb the tech great w/low tune and nice and smooth on the way down, I just manually add some compression for the hits.
    Awesome info, sounds like I'd be happy with the mid tune. Pretty set on air for weight reasons and what I'll use it for. If money was no object I'd definitely consider a ti coil, but I'm trying to keep the budget reasonable and the xx1 drive-train isn't making that easy.

  79. #779
    mtbr member
    Reputation: darkslide18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,065
    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    I am, a Monarch RC3 plus with HV/low tune which runs pretty good, almost too linear though. Great for the bumps, but alway use all my travel even with adding 20psi from previous bike. As Keith suggested go low tune for plush, mid tune for more compression damping and pedability. He recommends mid level compression tune with low rebound. My Monarch is the opposite with low compression, mid rebound and only run 4 clicks of rebound on it. Bike climb the tech great w/low tune and nice and smooth on the way down, I just manually add some compression for the hits.
    I'm going to give the Fox CTD a little longer before I end up selling it. Way too linear. Ordered a pack of spacers to throw in the air can to see if I can get just a little more ramp up and mid stroke support. As it is now it feels a little dead in the rear. Feels like I'm riding with a blown rear tire.

    By low rebound do you mean faster or slower?

  80. #780
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jncarpenter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    6,819
    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    I'm going to give the Fox CTD a little longer before I end up selling it. Way too linear. Ordered a pack of spacers to throw in the air can to see if I can get just a little more ramp up and mid stroke support.
    This pretty much parallels my thoughts as well. The stock shock is way under-valved.


  81. #781
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jgusta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    2,934
    Yeah, that's what I had to do with the Fox RP3 on the Yeti SB66 with low compression, low rebound tune, would result in blasting thru the travel a bit too easy and bottom out on the smallest of hits even with proper sag. Went with the Fox medium volume spacer and it gave more end range travel support without altering the feel of the suspension too much.

    By low rebound, I am referring to the manufacturer's tune of the shock, which would equate to slower rebound. The Monarchs are kind of confusing in that you can get them stock in almost any configuration: high volume/low volume, low/mid/high compression, low/mid/high rebound tune. Keith suggested to me, the Rune works best with mid compression, low rebound tune by the shock manufacturer. So, I run my Monarch on external mid-compression setting most of the time and minimal when wanting uber plush thru the chatter and rocks.
    Ride On!

  82. #782
    mtbr member
    Reputation: darkslide18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,065
    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Yeah, that's what I had to do with the Fox RP3 on the Yeti SB66 with low compression, low rebound tune, would result in blasting thru the travel a bit too easy and bottom out on the smallest of hits even with proper sag. Went with the Fox medium volume spacer and it gave more end range travel support without altering the feel of the suspension too much.

    By low rebound, I am referring to the manufacturer's tune of the shock, which would equate to slower rebound. The Monarchs are kind of confusing in that you can get them stock in almost any configuration: high volume/low volume, low/mid/high compression, low/mid/high rebound tune. Keith suggested to me, the Rune works best with mid compression, low rebound tune by the shock manufacturer. So, I run my Monarch on external mid-compression setting most of the time and minimal when wanting uber plush thru the chatter and rocks.
    Gotcha. Didn't realize you were talking about the Manufacturers tune. Looking at the CTD it looks like it runs a mid comp tune and a low rebound tune. Maybe Ill play with speeding up the rebound a bit to try and alleviate the dead feeling I'm getting out back. Maybe it is packing a bit?

    For shits and giggles I swapped out my slack flip chips for the neutral ones. See that goes tomorrow.

  83. #783
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jgusta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    2,934
    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    For shits and giggles I swapped out my slack flip chips for the neutral ones. See that goes tomorrow.
    Cool, think you may like it better. Should be a bit easier to climb on and quite possibly faster and more responsive on the descents. That is what I found going from slack to neutral on mine. The bike feels a little more lively and balanced to me in that setting, even at Blackrock. I did not like descending in the slack/lower setting as much, opposite of what you would think there. Think the suspension kinematics might possibly be optimized and tuned around the neutral setting. Just a guess, but that is my observation so far. I may go back to the slack setting for annual bike park trip this summer.
    Ride On!

  84. #784
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    11
    jgusta,

    -What is your weight?
    Do you know if the settings Keith gave you are universal?

    I'm asking because Antonio adviced (compression): M above 85 kg, L below 60 kg. All in between according to own preferences

  85. #785
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    53
    anybody been running Bos VipR? can anyone comment it? tunning specs etc.

    Im still waiting for the frame and hope to get within a few days after a few months waiting. Excited.

    I have VipR laying and cannot wait to test out this. On the label it says "VIP01". I wonder what configuration does it has

  86. #786
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    412
    NVM just noticed the date.

  87. #787
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jgusta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    2,934
    Quote Originally Posted by yancho View Post
    jgusta,

    -What is your weight?
    Do you know if the settings Keith gave you are universal?

    I'm asking because Antonio adviced (compression): M above 85 kg, L below 60 kg. All in between according to own preferences
    215 lbs ride weight
    Ride On!

  88. #788
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikeman_2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    58
    meins:


  89. #789
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    17
    Hey guys, seeing all these builds and reading all the feedback means that my next bike will indeed be the Rune. I have a question though, much like General Lee, i come from a competitive DH background and i'm also the same height (5'11). Lee has gone for a large and i'm thinking of doing the same. I know Lee went for the large primarily for the advantages riding DH but i'm wondering if there any issues with climbing on what is a fairly long bike. This bike is going to be my only bike so i don't really want to mess it up in regards to size etc! Any help would be much appreciated!

  90. #790
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    35
    Quote Originally Posted by Spooky221 View Post
    Hey guys, seeing all these builds and reading all the feedback means that my next bike will indeed be the Rune. I have a question though, much like General Lee, i come from a competitive DH background and i'm also the same height (5'11). Lee has gone for a large and i'm thinking of doing the same. I know Lee went for the large primarily for the advantages riding DH but i'm wondering if there any issues with climbing on what is a fairly long bike. This bike is going to be my only bike so i don't really want to mess it up in regards to size etc! Any help would be much appreciated!
    Hey Spooky221,

    I too am 5'11" (33.5" inseam) and rode a medium V1 with a 65mm stem which I always found a little cramped for general AM duties. I couldnt decide between M and L for my V2. Going by the numbers I thought the V2 Large might be a little long for me but I went with it, and have to say its perfect. The top tube really doesnt feel too long. I swapped out my stem to a 50mm and my bar to a 760mm and its dialled. The only thing I'd say is if you run a dropper post check how much post you need exposed. I have a 6" KS post and only have about 1" of post showing between the frame clamp and the post's collar. If you have shorter legs this may be a problem meaning you'd have to run a post with less drop.

    I'll stick up some pics of my build later. Hope this helps. The bike is great btw, rips DH and climbs way nicer than the V1.

  91. #791
    ptd
    ptd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    I have a 6" KS post and only have about 1" of post showing between the frame clamp and the post's collar. If you have shorter legs this may be a problem meaning you'd have to run a post with less drop
    This is the KS Lev 150?

    murrayf can you do me a favour and measure the distance from the saddle rails to the bottom of the post collar, with the post extended?

    There was another thread about this, but it would be good to get it confirmed from a fellow Rune'r.

    Thanks.

  92. #792
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    Hey Spooky221,

    I too am 5'11" (33.5" inseam) and rode a medium V1 with a 65mm stem which I always found a little cramped for general AM duties. I couldnt decide between M and L for my V2. Going by the numbers I thought the V2 Large might be a little long for me but I went with it, and have to say its perfect. The top tube really doesnt feel too long. I swapped out my stem to a 50mm and my bar to a 760mm and its dialled. The only thing I'd say is if you run a dropper post check how much post you need exposed. I have a 6" KS post and only have about 1" of post showing between the frame clamp and the post's collar. If you have shorter legs this may be a problem meaning you'd have to run a post with less drop.

    I'll stick up some pics of my build later. Hope this helps. The bike is great btw, rips DH and climbs way nicer than the V1.
    Hey Murrayf,

    thanks for the feedback! I have a 33" inseam so reckon I'll go with the large. I think i'll run it with a 40mm stem and 750 bars. Don't plan to use a dropper at the moment (all my money is going towards the frame!) but i'll bear that in mind as i'm sure i'll get one at some point!

    Thanks again for the info and get those pics up!!
    Last edited by Spooky221; 02-11-2013 at 02:19 PM.

  93. #793
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    35
    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    This is the KS Lev 150?

    murrayf can you do me a favour and measure the distance from the saddle rails to the bottom of the post collar, with the post extended?

    There was another thread about this, but it would be good to get it confirmed from a fellow Rune'r.

    Thanks.
    Hey ptd, sorry its an older 950 and actually a 5"/125mm, not 6". For reference it measures 7" from saddle rail to beneath the collar chamfer (as far inserted as the post could go).

  94. #794
    mtbr member
    Reputation: darkslide18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,065
    Swapped out the Shimano XT kit and went with 1x10 SRAM X9 with an MRP Bling Ring.


  95. #795
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    35
    A few pics of my build. Had 4 rides on it now and have to mirror what everyone else is saying. Faster down and way faster up than the old Rune.

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-runev2-01.jpg

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-runev2-02.jpg

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-runev2-16.jpg

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-runev2-05.jpg

    Note - the dropped chainstays on the Rune make it impossible to run the MRP G2 Mini in the correct position. I have it turned as far as it will go (anticlock) and the chain JUST clears the chainstay with an SLX GS rear mech, however with the Zee mech it does not because the chain doesnt get pulled downward enough from the guide pulley. So I had to remove the guide pulley and re-install my Bionicon guide. Works perfect, but isnt ideal.
    Last edited by murrayf; 02-12-2013 at 03:07 PM.

  96. #796
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jgusta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    2,934
    "Faster down and way faster up than the old Rune"

    So true, feels like a true "AM" bike to me. Whereas, most of everything else out there are just glorified trail bikes.

    Nice bike, congrats!
    Ride On!

  97. #797
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    169
    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    Note - the dropped chainstays on the Rune make it impossible run the MRP G2 in the correct position. I have it turned as far as it will go (anticlock) and the chain JUST clears the chainstay with an SLX GS rear mech, however with the Zee mech it does not because the chain doesnt get pulled downward enough from the guide pulley. So I had to remove the guide pulley and re-install my Bionicon guide. Works perfect, but isnt ideal.
    That's what I'm worried about - I want to give the e13 TRS+ a try but from what I can "guess" when looking at my frame, is that there is not enough clearance for the guide pulley. I know that there are a few pulleysout there that can be run with the frame - but has anyone made any experience with the TRS+ in particular?

  98. #798
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,093
    I'm running an SRS+ on my spitfire without any issue, rune is not far off spitfire for clearance, so I'm sure you can make it work. Worst case scenario you could grind a little section of the backplate to make it fit without sacrificing performance if needed.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  99. #799
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bigcrs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    989
    Note - the dropped chainstays on the Rune make it impossible run the MRP G2 in the correct position. I have it turned as far as it will go (anticlock) and the chain JUST clears the chainstay with an SLX GS rear mech, however with the Zee mech it does not because the chain doesnt get pulled downward enough from the guide pulley. So I had to remove the guide pulley and re-install my Bionicon guide. Works perfect, but isnt ideal.[/QUOTE

    What about the MRP Micro guide, 28t-32t?

  100. #800
    Cannonball!
    Reputation: coiler-d's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    515
    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    Note - the dropped chainstays on the Rune make it impossible run the MRP G2 in the correct position. I have it turned as far as it will go (anticlock) and the chain JUST clears the chainstay with an SLX GS rear mech, however with the Zee mech it does not because the chain doesnt get pulled downward enough from the guide pulley. So I had to remove the guide pulley and re-install my Bionicon guide. Works perfect, but isnt ideal.
    I don't have any problems with the G2 with my set up, XTR mid cage and 38t ring.

Page 8 of 32 FirstFirst ... 45678910111218 ... LastLast

Members who have read this thread: 207

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •