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  1. #1776
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    I've been having a Hell of a hard time climbing my rune... I'm in the slackest setting, going to try it in the steepest setting tomorrow. Part of it is, its spring and my lungs aren't cooperating and i switched a 1x10 w/ 32 front 36 rear gearing.

    What setting are most of you guys running in when, equal amounts of climbing, is necessary to get to the downs?
    Last edited by Dirk77; 03-09-2014 at 06:50 PM.

  2. #1777
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    30T front, 11-36 rear for me (1x10) that I use to climb everything here in PacNW. Yesterday I did about 4500ft of gain/loss on my ride. I ride it in the slackest setting, but drop fork down to 130mm to steepen the front end and make the climbs more comfortable. I use to not like doing all my riding in the slackest setting due to too much rear wheel bias, even with descending. But, I had a low tuned shock, since then I have been on a mid-tune shock that doesn't go thru the travel as easily and now I can do all riding in slackest setting and feels great on the descents, especially with the lower BB as well. I would try mid/neutral setting first before going to steepest. That is how I ran mine mostly for first year (w/improper low tune compression shock).
    Ride On!

  3. #1778
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    what of the hell are you climbing i use a 36 x 10/42 sram xo1 and yes i am mosly death when i finish climbing

  4. #1779
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    Are you running the correct abount of sag at the rear shock?
    Born on the Shore - The Banshee Bikes Blog: Search results for sag
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  5. #1780
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    I'm right at 17mm with the sag, on the fox float x. Most of my riding consists of roughly 1500 to 3000 feet of elevation change in 7 or 14 miles, with equal climbing to the descending.

    Last year i ran a 2x10 (transition covert),didn't do too bad on the climbs. The rune is definitely a better climber though so it's got to be my conditioning.

    I've been snowboarding a lot a all winter and got some riding in. But i couldn't keep up with some buddies at a all on the rides so far this year, They always beat me on the climbs anyways but these last few rides have been flat out embarrassing for me,ha.. i just need to get my ass in gear..

    I've got nice light wheels, spank Oozy/Chris king hubs/Hd front racing Ralph rear,tubeless. 27.5

    One thing is for sure, this bike is so fun on the downhill and the fox float x feals great.. I'll bet the ccdbair feels amazing on this frame.

  6. #1781
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    Ya you just need to get back in shape... a common challenge this time of year. The first rides are going to be brutal if you try to do the same rides you do mid-season. Luckily here in Utah only a few easy trails dry out right now, and the big rides up in the mountains are covered in snow for another couple months. So we have plenty of time to get back in shape on the easy stuff.

    I have my rune in the neutral setting with the fox float ctd shock, and can count on on hand how many times I've put it in climb mode.

  7. #1782
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    Is there a Banshee dealer here in Utah?

  8. #1783
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeboardorblade View Post
    Is there a Banshee dealer here in Utah?
    Not currently, but if you have a local bike shop that you are loyal to, then if they are willing, they should be able to get a banshee from you via our North American distributor Trident Sports.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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  9. #1784
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    Yep. I bought mine without ever even seeing one in the flesh. After reading all about it, comparing it on paper to other bikes, and seeing that the designer himself (builttoride ^) help people out so much on here I was sold. Bit of a gamble, but I love it and am glad I pulled the trigger. Have been able to try out some of the other super high end carbon 27.5 bikes lately, and am still more stoked on my Rune.

    On that note, carbon Rune please?? help me I'm lazy.

    edit: by "Yep" I was agreeing with what Builttoride said, not saying yep directly to your question about Utah dealers.

  10. #1785
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    yes me too i never see one and i read and read and compare and see keith helping and supporting his bikes i buy my rune and i am happy

  11. #1786
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironxcross View Post
    Yep. I bought mine without ever even seeing one in the flesh. After reading all about it, comparing it on paper to other bikes, and seeing that the designer himself (builttoride ^) help people out so much on here I was sold.

    On that note, carbon Rune please?? help me I'm lazy.

    Yep, me Three.. I cant even add anything to your quote above because its exactly how I feel too.

    But I will add a huge Thank You to Keith for his support from questions on here. It really is great.

    Ill just throw in another, pretty please with a cherry on top,, for the carbon models.
    Last edited by Dirk77; 03-11-2014 at 12:08 AM.

  12. #1787
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    Just set up my new Rune, great bike btw.

    Got on my first rides and felt really good. Had some air losing problems with the CCDBair CS but could fix it myself.

    But the CCDB is still giving me problems. Im running 16mm Sag (135psi, ~90kg). Rocking the base Tune I was able to use almost all the travel on my hometrail (biggest table 2-3m). Now I'm running 4 Turns HSC and it's ok. Jumping into the landing I have 20mm of travel left and hammering it into the flat rear wheel first im still at 5-7mm left. (It's really not the biggest jump, no steep take off).

    I talked to someone my weight (im 90kg he is ~87) who runs the old CCDB air with the new XV air can. He is running the base tune (2 turns HSC) and 125psi. He can hit everything up to 3-4m drops without bottoming out.

    Did CaneCreek change the progression or something? If I ever have the balls to jump 4m drops I am pretty sure I will bottom out with my settings.
    Anyone running an extra small volume spacer in the new CCDBair XV CS? Cause I am at the end of HSC...

    Keith any suggestions? Others are welcome, too.

    cheers!

  13. #1788
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andreas.blub View Post
    Just set up my new Rune, great bike btw.

    Got on my first rides and felt really good. Had some air losing problems with the CCDBair CS but could fix it myself.

    But the CCDB is still giving me problems. Im running 16mm Sag (135psi, ~90kg). Rocking the base Tune I was able to use almost all the travel on my hometrail (biggest table 2-3m). Now I'm running 4 Turns HSC and it's ok. Jumping into the landing I have 20mm of travel left and hammering it into the flat rear wheel first im still at 5-7mm left. (It's really not the biggest jump, no steep take off).

    I talked to someone my weight (im 90kg he is ~87) who runs the old CCDB air with the new XV air can. He is running the base tune (2 turns HSC) and 125psi. He can hit everything up to 3-4m drops without bottoming out.

    Did CaneCreek change the progression or something? If I ever have the balls to jump 4m drops I am pretty sure I will bottom out with my settings.
    Anyone running an extra small volume spacer in the new CCDBair XV CS? Cause I am at the end of HSC...

    Keith any suggestions? Others are welcome, too.

    cheers!
    Sounds like you would benefit from adding a volume reduction spacer or 2. It's a 2 minute tool free job to open the shock up and add the spacer ring in there, and it will increase the progession of the shock so that it feels more bottomless. I personally run more volume reduction spacers than the base tune as I prefer to run a bit less damping and have a nice lively feel, but don't want to bottom out.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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  14. #1789
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    Sounds like what I am searching for. I want to have some HSC left when I go to bigger big parks.

    The small spacers look really small. Maybe I'll add 2 of those and see how it plays out.

    Thanks

  15. #1790
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    excuse me i am from Puerto Rico and im not familiar with lenguage what do you mean by bottom out

  16. #1791
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    Using all the travel of the CCDB air.

  17. #1792
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    ok that what i was thinking so tge volume spacer add stiffness to barrel?

  18. #1793
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    The volume redrucer adds progression. So if you use too much travel and are at the end of HSC you can add another spacer.

    There's a how to on the CaneCreek page. It's really not that hard to do.

  19. #1794
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    Yep it's official, I'm fat and lazy.. the 1x10 ain't working for me. i rode 4.5 miles yesterday, had a tough time. Rode 10.6 miles and 1827ft of elevation change today and couldnt do it. I stopped and rested more than i can count, had to hike a few sections that i normally would pedal up with the 2x10. Got to the top of last climb of the day and my quad muscle was cramping so bad, i barely made it down..

    I did make a few personal best times on some dh sections though.. I'm 19 sec behind the kom on one popular dh trail, the last 1/3rd i can't keep it together, legs burning and huffing air.. the rune is awesome for dh.

  20. #1795
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    that 1x10 have a 42 on the cassette?

  21. #1796
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAFIA View Post
    that 1x10 have a 42 on the cassette?
    Nope, no money to buy one and not in stock anywhere. That's my next step though. My large rear gear is 36(still pretty big)

  22. #1797
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    The 42 is a game changer...Smooth shifting & all.

  23. #1798
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    What front ring? I rode a 30t and a 32t front ring with a 36 rear. I recently got a 42 from WT and plan on moving to a larger front ring.

    When you first go single front ring its hard to get used to. Give it some time and it will get easier as your legs get used to it.
    13 Banshee Rune, Pushed Fox 36Float RC2, I9 Blunt35's

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  24. #1799
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    I'm on a 32t front. Ya maybe I'll give it more time, laying around with a fractured shoulder and being laid off from work was not a good idea,this last winter..ha

    I'm gonna order the 42t, in the meantime i think I'm just gonna bolt my granny gear backon the front and switch it by hand for the last 1/3rd of the ride, or when i really need it.

  25. #1800
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    yep the 42t is the game changer for high hill and is not maybe as easy as other setup but you will get adaptation i actually came from a 2x10 setup and i will not going back i really like 1x11 better lool

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