Page 60 of 60 FirstFirst ... 10505657585960
Results 2,951 to 2,994 of 2994
  1. #2951
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Junersun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    1,083
    Quote Originally Posted by hitar_potar View Post
    Ohhh, which are the other builds in Bulgaria? And who is the new dealer of banshees for Bg? Also, am looking at the 2016 rune and am wondering which one is better for a 180mm fork - the rune or the darkside. Type of planned riding: enduro as well as bike-park riding.
    I'd stick to the rune. I think climbing on a darkside is possible depending on how you build it but it would do disservice to the frames full potential

    Just my opinion though, I see a lot of builds on the darkside where people put a wide range cassette, single crown fork with a climb switch air shock on so what do I know :-P

    The rune is one capable bike though.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    '16 Banshee Rune
    '15 Large NS Essentric ALU
    '15 Large Ibis Mojo HD3
    '14 Large Knolly Endorphin
    '08 Jamis Dakar Expert

  2. #2952
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    7
    I kinda wonder if a180mm fork would be too much for the rune, if it would bring some disbalance to the complete bike...

  3. #2953
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by hitar_potar View Post
    I kinda wonder if a180mm fork would be too much for the rune, if it would bring some disbalance to the complete bike...
    This is the thing with the Rune... When I rode one I had time with 26 wheels on a 180 MM Zocchi 66 and a 160 lyrik. If I was staying local and pedalling - the lyrik did the trick. When it was time to go to Angelfire - the 66 was thrown on and i put the bike in the slack setting - total plow machine with about 35% sag in the rear.

    Would I live with a Rune @ 180? Probably not - but if you have a park build its a great match. Thinking about getting a cheap set of 26x150 wheels for my wife's Rune when we go to visit parks - i still have my 66 and she feels the Pike has too much feedback in brake bumps.

  4. #2954
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    7
    I'm thinking of throwing everything from my IH Sunday (saint 820 drivetrain, havoc ust wheels, havoc/Thomson cockpit) on a banshee frame. If it's a Rune, gotta get a new crankset 68/73mm and an enduro fork (I want a 180mm but am wondering if it's too much). If it's a Darkside, I can keep my present saint 83mm crank and a 180mm fork would be fine.

  5. #2955
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Junersun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    1,083
    What hub spacing do you have? Although the darkside has a 142 option, I think the chainline is better with 150.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    '16 Banshee Rune
    '15 Large NS Essentric ALU
    '15 Large Ibis Mojo HD3
    '14 Large Knolly Endorphin
    '08 Jamis Dakar Expert

  6. #2956
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtrider76's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,706
    Fwiw Keith said before the Rune was not built for a 180 fork and it would void the warranty. He suggested building a Darkside instead.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  7. #2957
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    Fwiw Keith said before the Rune was not built for a 180 fork and it would void the warranty. He suggested building a Darkside instead.
    From the Rune FAQ:
    "Q: What fork travel do you recommend?
    A: The optimal fork travel for the rune is 160mm, however the frame is covered to run up to 180mm single crown forks."

  8. #2958
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtrider76's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,706
    Hey I asked it on here in this thread. I have no reason to make it up.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  9. #2959
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ryanmj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    117
    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    I'd agree with the 0.5 degrees of head angle approximately, but the bb height will not increase by as much as 5mm, more like 2.5mm as it's closer to back wheel than the front wheel and the fork is at an angle.
    Good to know, im running a 170 fork and considered dropping it to 160 to lower my bb.

  10. #2960
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by Junersun View Post
    What hub spacing do you have? Although the darkside has a 142 option, I think the chainline is better with 150.
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Well, the Sunday is a 83mm bb, 12x150mm hub frame. A Darkside would allow me to keep both rear wheel and crank, a Rune would allow me to keep only the wheel. Whichever I choose, I will keep the 12x150 rear, that's for sure! Reason for my wondering is that i want to go enduro, but am more keen on the downs than the ups (haha, no shit? ) and my priority is going down.

  11. #2961
    mtbr member
    Reputation: drapeado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    159
    I had a go with diferent rear sags and tried 2 of the geometry options. The bike is a beast with the slack mode, but after a couple of rides i reverted back to neutral, and i definitly love it this way. I get less pedal strikes, it climbs better and on the way down, it s poppy, super fun and more nimble, makes me smile more, so it s a no brainer. I ll save the slack settings for bike park.

    Anyway, still searching for the ideal sag. I ve seen the chart at the banshee bikes blog, where 30% sag is equivalent to 17,5mm of stroke compression, doesnt explain but i assume this is for the cane creek. On my rear shock, a monarch debonair plus the 30% mark measures 19mm.
    I know this isnt rocket science but i am curious for such a big diference in milimeters. I am using the shock mark, with good feeling, nice small bump, only bottoms out at bigger drops / jumps and i switch to "firm" to climb steep fire roads.
    Almost perfect bike, just starting to save money to get 27.5 wheels.

  12. #2962
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,059
    The shock sag marks do not represent the suspension sag (% of travel of bike used) due to the fact that the suspension is not perfectly linear, but progressive, so to compress the suspension 10mm at start of travel uses less shock stroke than compressing 10mm of suspension at end of travel.

    19mm of shock compression = around 33% suspension sag
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  13. #2963
    mtbr member
    Reputation: drapeado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    159
    Sorry, english is not my born language.
    So, let s say i would want 25% sag. The 63mm divided by 4 doesnt apply?
    Damm, now i just want to set it again and go for a ride :-)

  14. #2964
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,059
    Shock sag does not = suspension sag. Suspension sag is what is important, and why I feel that shock manufacturers should stop printing sag marks on the shocks that can be misleading due to the fact that shock compression and suspension compression do not have a linear relationship unless the leverage ratio is constant throughout travel (perfectly linear)

    On a rune if you want 25% sag you want 14.5mm of shock compression.


    It's all to do with leverage ratio. a progressive linkage like we use, starts with a high leverage ratio, and ends lower.

    If you have a high leverage ratio of say 3:1, then when the shock compresses by 1mm, the suspension linkage uses 3mm of travel.

    If you have a low leverage ratio of say 2:1, then when the shock compresses by 1mm, the suspension linkage uses only 2mm of travel.

    Therefore the sag marks on the shock only are truely accurate if the leverage ratio is constant throughout whole range of travel, which is very rare and not very desirable.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  15. #2965
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Phsx2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    3
    So if I wanted 28% would that be 16.24mm?

  16. #2966
    mtbr member
    Reputation: drapeado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    159
    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Shock sag does not = suspension sag. Suspension sag is what is important, and why I feel that shock manufacturers should stop printing sag marks on the shocks that can be misleading due to the fact that shock compression and suspension compression do not have a linear relationship unless the leverage ratio is constant throughout travel (perfectly linear)

    On a rune if you want 25% sag you want 14.5mm of shock compression.


    It's all to do with leverage ratio. a progressive linkage like we use, starts with a high leverage ratio, and ends lower.

    If you have a high leverage ratio of say 3:1, then when the shock compresses by 1mm, the suspension linkage uses 3mm of travel.

    If you have a low leverage ratio of say 2:1, then when the shock compresses by 1mm, the suspension linkage uses only 2mm of travel.

    Therefore the sag marks on the shock only are truely accurate if the leverage ratio is constant throughout whole range of travel, which is very rare and not very desirable.
    Thank you, i wasnt understanding why it wasnt equal. To be completely linear we would be talking about an old single pivot or sometinhg?!!
    But i cant stop thinking that it s a lot harder to ride bumpy trails with your recomendation, because my shock has no regulations what so ever, it has the medium original compression tune and the possibility of rubber rings. But if it s already so hard there s no point to put them.
    Wish i had a cane creek to try it.
    Anyway, even if i am using 30 or 33 sag percentage i am having a great time riding the bike, on the very first ride i kinda felt it was my bike for years, no worries to adapt, just go. Amazing frame!!!

  17. #2967
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtrider76's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,706
    Ride the shock in open position instead of the trail or pedal setting. It's got less compression damping in open.


    IMHO the CCDBA is the way to go on a Rune.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  18. #2968
    mtbr member
    Reputation: drapeado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    159
    Here at Europe a bos kirk is also a great option, pricey though...

  19. #2969
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,059
    These are only our recommended sags, everyone is different and should set the shocks up the way that work best for them and the trails they ride.

    Regarding the volume spacers... you will actually make the initial travel feel more plush by adding volume spacers and running same sag as less air pressure will be required to hit same sag point and you will have more bottom out resistance.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  20. #2970
    mtbr member
    Reputation: drapeado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    159
    Yeah, only a starting base. As i said i m happy with the bike, i was just curious about those diferent measures for sag.
    Thx again, i have some red spacers and i ll try it someday, the bottom out is not an issue, i only use all the travel on the bigger stuff, if there s anything to improve it would be some plushness for small bumps.

    Next weekend i ll tell my buddies, that the guy that designed my bike actually gave me some set up tips
    Downside is i ll have to pay the beers...

  21. #2971
    mtbr member
    Reputation: windv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    24
    photos for people with strong hearts...


    ...the best adjustable drop out system

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-untitled-1.jpg

    rune lines

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-p5pb14255656.jpg

    simple black paint

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-12-18-2333.jpg

    earth trying to get in and dance with the grease

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-12-18-2300.jpg
    Ѣ

  22. #2972
    mtbr member
    Reputation: drapeado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    159
    Hi guys
    have tried the float ctd from my old nomad, it was a short ride but i ve done the same trails i did lately with the debonair. While pedalling and climbing the float is better, it has a better small bump smoothness and on climb mode the shock stays high, sag remains at 17mm imstead of 20mm of the debonair, the bike feels less slack, after a couple of hours it feels more effective.

    Going down, the ctd has less mid stroke support specially on fast bumpy sections, and it bottoms easier on bigger drops, it doesnt have the same control feeling of the debonair on landings.
    So, this small ctd performed better that i hoped and maybe it would be even better with a volume spacer.
    The small bump of the ctd and the downhill control of the debonair in the same package, would be the perfect shock.
    Next weekend i m going to try a ccdb air xv from a friend, he s warning me to get my wallet "ready".

  23. #2973
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by drapeado View Post
    Hi guys
    have tried the float ctd from my old nomad, it was a short ride but i ve done the same trails i did lately with the debonair. While pedalling and climbing the float is better, it has a better small bump smoothness and on climb mode the shock stays high, sag remains at 17mm imstead of 20mm of the debonair, the bike feels less slack, after a couple of hours it feels more effective.

    Going down, the ctd has less mid stroke support specially on fast bumpy sections, and it bottoms easier on bigger drops, it doesnt have the same control feeling of the debonair on landings.
    So, this small ctd performed better that i hoped and maybe it would be even better with a volume spacer.
    The small bump of the ctd and the downhill control of the debonair in the same package, would be the perfect shock.
    Next weekend i m going to try a ccdb air xv from a friend, he s warning me to get my wallet "ready".
    Best bang for buck upgrade for the CTD is a Vorsprung Corset. I would do that before shelling out on a CCDB.

  24. #2974
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ryanmj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    117
    Question for anyone running a ccdb air

    A few of us with Darksides needed to downsize the air can from the Xv to the standard because we were blowing through the travel too fast due to the linear spring curve. Is this the situation with the rune or is the Xv the way to go?

  25. #2975
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Junersun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    1,083
    I am 200+ lbs and ride some chunky terrain. A high volume air can for me didn't work at all. Even with my x2, I've had to put the max volume spacers to prevent blowing through my travel...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    '16 Banshee Rune
    '15 Large NS Essentric ALU
    '15 Large Ibis Mojo HD3
    '14 Large Knolly Endorphin
    '08 Jamis Dakar Expert

  26. #2976
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtrider76's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,706
    225 here and using a standard can no spacers on my CCBD. My Rune mostly is a park bike now but I rode it the same way on the trails with good luck.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  27. #2977
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Junersun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    1,083
    Anyone experiment with 27.5 wheel front and 26 rear? Looking to drop the bb and shorten the chain stay...


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    '16 Banshee Rune
    '15 Large NS Essentric ALU
    '15 Large Ibis Mojo HD3
    '14 Large Knolly Endorphin
    '08 Jamis Dakar Expert

  28. #2978
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    164
    Quote Originally Posted by Junersun View Post
    Anyone experiment with 27.5 wheel front and 26 rear? Looking to drop the bb and shorten the chain stay...


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Yep,I did. Descended well but climbing was not too good. Tried for about a month.
    Btw, I might sell my 26" drop outs if anyone's interested.

  29. #2979
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    102
    Quote Originally Posted by windv View Post
    Attachment 1104571Attachment 1104570

    That's my XL rune with 222x70mm shock, rocking something like 178mm of rear travel. BB is 344mm high. It feels great. I am running the vivid with ~35% sag. The rear triangle doesn't touch the seat tube when bottomed out. it's 14,9kg with the synthace W40 26" rims(150x12 rear axle and 20mm front) and fox van 36 180mm fork. guide brakes and 1x10 shimano drivetrain.

    will try fox float ctd 216 later on to see how both configurations compare...

    Removed the original paint and will be anodizing it soon in black, and than spraying some details with paint. Can't wait to see it ready
    How did you remove the original paint and anodize it in black? Am thinking of some new colors... my rune has been left idling for too long............ it is not getting ridden at all for the past year! Must get on with this project. Is it safe for frame integrity to have the paint removed chemically?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  30. #2980
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Junersun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    1,083
    Quote Originally Posted by ScottieM8 View Post
    Yep,I did. Descended well but climbing was not too good. Tried for about a month.
    Btw, I might sell my 26" drop outs if anyone's interested.
    Were you running it in the slack mode? I'm thinking in neutral setting so it doesn't take out too badly


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    '16 Banshee Rune
    '15 Large NS Essentric ALU
    '15 Large Ibis Mojo HD3
    '14 Large Knolly Endorphin
    '08 Jamis Dakar Expert

  31. #2981
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    164
    I did both slacked and nuetral. Going down was a blast with the 26" rear. It just hung up a bit on square hits when climbing. Probably my handling skills need more improvement.

  32. #2982
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Junersun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    1,083
    That is very promising seeing how my climbs are mostly fireroads before singletrack downs!

    Did the slack move really rake your HA out though? Seems like a wheelsize drop of 1"+ it would significantly change the geo...
    '16 Banshee Rune
    '15 Large NS Essentric ALU
    '15 Large Ibis Mojo HD3
    '14 Large Knolly Endorphin
    '08 Jamis Dakar Expert

  33. #2983
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtrider76's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,706
    Anyone in here crash warranty a Rune recently? Would you mind PM'ing me the price please? I was given a price last week on my crash warranty frame and I might as well just buy a new frame.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  34. #2984
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    Anyone in here crash warranty a Rune recently? Would you mind PM'ing me the price please? I was given a price last week on my crash warranty frame and I might as well just buy a new frame.
    I had a crash replacement in 2013. Broke my V1 and the V2 ended up being 1300 or so from the distributor at the time. The MSRP was 2k - my frame was purchased second hand and I was stoked to get this offer.

  35. #2985
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    3,528
    Killing a Rune should be a capital offense!
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

  36. #2986
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtrider76's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,706
    Quote Originally Posted by chuckiebruster View Post
    I had a crash replacement in 2013. Broke my V1 and the V2 ended up being 1300 or so from the distributor at the time. The MSRP was 2k - my frame was purchased second hand and I was stoked to get this offer.
    Yeah I was told 1500 for a crash replacement frame. I already started looking at other stuff. I can get a similar frame with shock and headset for less and still have my shock and CK headset to sell off.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  37. #2987
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    164
    Quote Originally Posted by Junersun View Post
    That is very promising seeing how my climbs are mostly fireroads before singletrack downs!

    Did the slack move really rake your HA out though? Seems like a wheelsize drop of 1"+ it would significantly change the geo...
    The slack mode did rake out tbe front end. Use the neutral if you're going to try 26" rear. I sold off the Rune recently and got a Canfield Balance.

  38. #2988
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    14
    Ask for the frame minus shock and you should be able to get to the $1300 area. Or find a used frame on PB - ton of runes for sale.

    What are the other options you are finding for the same amount?

  39. #2989
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtrider76's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,706
    Quote Originally Posted by chuckiebruster View Post
    Ask for the frame minus shock and you should be able to get to the $1300 area. Or find a used frame on PB - ton of runes for sale.

    What are the other options you are finding for the same amount?
    It's 1500 frame and dropouts, no shock. I wouldn't but a used version of a bike I've already cracked. There is actually a cracked Rune on Pinkbike for sale now. Hence why I wouldn't buy a 2016 Rune new, it's the same bike I have.

    It's the new year 2016 non carbon frames are easy to pick up for 1500ish.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  40. #2990
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Junersun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    1,083
    Where are the cracks happening?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    '16 Banshee Rune
    '15 Large NS Essentric ALU
    '15 Large Ibis Mojo HD3
    '14 Large Knolly Endorphin
    '08 Jamis Dakar Expert

  41. #2991
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    It's 1500 frame and dropouts, no shock. I wouldn't but a used version of a bike I've already cracked. There is actually a cracked Rune on Pinkbike for sale now. Hence why I wouldn't buy a 2016 Rune new, it's the same bike I have.

    It's the new year 2016 non carbon frames are easy to pick up for 1500ish.
    Last inquiry - where did your bike crack and would you confirm that your crash replacement is in fact a 2016 and not a 2017? Quick search shows there is not much 2016 stock and what is available is $1500 with a cane creek db coil. I would kindly see if there is any wiggle room or an explanation of the crash replacement price compared to new frames in the marketplace.

  42. #2992
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtrider76's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,706
    Quote Originally Posted by chuckiebruster View Post
    Last inquiry - where did your bike crack and would you confirm that your crash replacement is in fact a 2016 and not a 2017? Quick search shows there is not much 2016 stock and what is available is $1500 with a cane creek db coil. I would kindly see if there is any wiggle room or an explanation of the crash replacement price compared to new frames in the marketplace.
    My frame cracked on the seat tube at the bottom of the upper link mount. It seems they are kind of known for cracking there and at the shock mounts on the downtube? I've seen a few cracked on the net always at the same spots which is how I found mine. I waited to get a 2017, I could have had a 2016 months ago but its the same frame as what I have. The 2017 has changed in that area. No bend in the seat tube to bottom bracket area, increased size in seat tube, new tubing construction.

    I was told "MSRP is 1900, crash replacement is 20% off so $1500 plus shipping" That was no shock, frame and drop outs only.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  43. #2993
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    14
    for a 2017 I would bite on that deal - if it was a 2016 I would hold out and probably look elsewhere as you are. Good Luck - I went from a 2013 Rune to a 2016 Yeti SB6 only because my shit was stolen and I got a big check from insurance. I would have went Rune - but the availability for my size was limited and a local shop had the Yeti on sale as it was sitting on the sales floor for a while (owner indicated 4 people had it on layaway and all backed out).

    Dang I miss my Rune - that bike did it all. My wife is on a med 2016 Rune and she loves it. Not worried about her cracking it anytime soon - if she does we will probably bike down to a Spitty as her friends do XC and her Rune is a bit burly for that.

  44. #2994
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    100
    I've only seen 2013 Runes, the first of the V2, crack at the shock mounts. I know a number of people riding them cracked with absolutely no issue at all. Wasn't aware of the seat tube issue though.

Page 60 of 60 FirstFirst ... 10505657585960

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •