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  1. #401
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    Initial ride report: THIS THING IS ****ING FAST.

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    Initial ride report: THIS THING IS ****ING FAST.
    Concise, to the point, not too wordy but all the information we need. All in all, a very good review.

  3. #403
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    Pinkbike posted a picture tonight on FB of their 650b test sled in mid-build at OTE in Sedona.

  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    Pinkbike posted a picture tonight on FB of their 650b test sled in mid-build at OTE in Sedona.
    Link?

    NVM found it.
    Last edited by Mishtar; 12-02-2012 at 10:10 PM.

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Link?
    Make me get off the couch and go to the PC, huh? I was in iPad land, which doesn't make sharing FB links easy.

  6. #406
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    Woops sorry

  7. #407
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    A question for Keith.
    How strong are the ISCG tabs? I'm looking into crank setups, And I'm pondering between taco and a classic bash. I'd rather go with a FC-M675 + E.13 LS1+, the altrenative is FC-M670 and a classic chainguide + bashring.

    If I sustain a tab breaking hit/crash/impact can I warranty the frame? Can the tab's be broken at all?

    A little help please.

  8. #408
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    As is true for nearly all manufacturers, warranty only covered manufacturing defects. Damage caused by large impact to the ISCG tabs will not be covered under warranty, but we will offer crash replacement.

    The ISCG tabs weld is strong, but no welds like direct impact which is essentially what happend when a taco hits the ground.
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  9. #409
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    Thank's.

    So m670 + bash i it is.

  10. #410
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    My frame just showed up, but sans the 650b dropouts. I called Trident and was told they wouldn't be shipping the 650b dropouts until late January at the earliest. Glad I ordered the 26" dropouts as well.

  11. #411
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    Pink Bike got the only available 650 dropouts apparently

    After they finish thrashing it, it's coming to Francois here at MTBR for the 650 shootout.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  12. #412
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    We had a bit of an issue with forging supplier for the 650B dropouts, hence they have been delayed. Sorry about that. They aren't too far out now.
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  13. #413
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    I should probably spend some time on 26" wheels anyway, just for comparison.

  14. #414
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    I picked up a blue Rune 2 a few days ago and just got it built up. I'd post a pic but MTBR won't let me yet. Guess I need to post more and troll less...

    You can find it over on Vital in the bike check section if you're interested in seeing how that color looks (I'm 5'10" and it's a large)

    And definitely check out the feature we did on the Banshee factory. They may be a small operation but they certainly aren't cutting any corners with designing and building their bikes. I was super impressed.

    Glad to see you guys are as stoked on this bike as I am. I've never been this psyched to build up a trail bike.

    Cheers

  15. #415
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  16. #416
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    General Lee, you have a sweet bike and great piece on Vital about Banshee!

    How are the Oozy rims holding up? I'm thinking of building up some new wheels once Spank sends over another shipment to N. America.

    General Lee's bike:


  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haus Boss View Post
    Lee, your bike looks amazing!

  18. #418
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    Very nice!

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miltony527 View Post
    Beatiful! Do you have a pic of the frame weight?
    I don't. For 2 reasons:

    1. I don't have a scale

    2. I've never weighed any bike I've owned, not even my race bikes during my previous World Cup racing days. My personal philosophy has been to spec a bike the way I want performance wise and leave it at that. But I do like my wheels to be pretty light while still being durable (1650 for the pair in this case).

    I'd guess it's in the +/- 30lb range depending on tire selection. Right now it's Oozy wheels and 2.5/2/35 Minion single ply so not too bad to pedal around at all. For comparison sake, I compared it to a complete 100mm '08 Giant Reign I had lying around at it's definitely lighter which actually surprised me.

    Sorry if that's not the most helpful answer, but I actually rate weight fairly low on my priorities for choosing a frame. Geometry the #1 factor followed by suspension, brakes, tires, wheels in that order.

    As a former high level DH racer, this is the trail bike I wanted 10 years ago. Glad someone finally made it.

  20. #420
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    general lee, thanks for making factory Review. I was impressed too.

    my height is 5"10 and Im surprised that you picked Large size. I got recommendation by Banshee to get Medium size. Any reason to choose Large? In case before I regret choosing medium size

    What lenght of stem and bar do you use?

    Ozzy rims, hmm interesting. Better than Flow rims?

    Indeed, me as dh rider , Rune v2 is no brainer choice and even will become my main bike of all those I own

  21. #421
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    @tomasis
    I am 5'11 (180cm) and I ordered a large Rune (it felt great when I sat on it at the Eurobike show). I am currently riding a Liteville 301 in L, but I had a 301 in M before. In retrospective, it was a very wise decision to switch to the larger frame size. Now I am using a shorter stem, which results in almost the same length but gives me more control in extremely steep sections. Since the chainstays did not grow with the larger frame it feels as versatile as the M, but it's much better when I am going fast.

    I will go for L + 30mm stem.

  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomasis View Post
    general lee, thanks for making factory Review. I was impressed too.

    my height is 5"10 and Im surprised that you picked Large size. I got recommendation by Banshee to get Medium size. Any reason to choose Large? In case before I regret choosing medium size

    What lenght of stem and bar do you use?

    Ozzy rims, hmm interesting. Better than Flow rims?

    Indeed, me as dh rider , Rune v2 is no brainer choice and even will become my main bike of all those I own

    My arms are slightly longer proportional to my height which figures in a bit but that's not really the reason. I used med frames for all my dh race bikes for a long time but they started feeling more cramped as 8" forks and geometry changes made riding less upright and more evenly over the entire bike a lot faster and efficient. I felt like my '08 Sunday would have been perfect with the top and downtube off a large, same with my original Evil Revolt. Even since then I've ridden mostly larges since few companies have totally retooled their geometry around having a longer front end. I heard a from a few product managers that they were considering going to Small, Med, Med-long, XLarge but it's a tough call when people have really been conditioned to think of bikes only in terms of seat tube height and effective TT length (which means nothing as soon as you stand up). Instead of getting on a bike an thinking 'this feels good when I sit on it' you might want to consider what it feels like when you stand on it. Make sense?

    At 5'10 you could go either way depending how you like to be positioned on the bike. I come from more of a DH racing background and prefer a bit more aggressive position on a bike. In this case if you're choosing between sizes it's best to go bigger than smaller since the latter starts to make your hands feel like they're near your waste and your chest and head way ahead of them; not exactly a good feeling.

    I could probably ride a medium with no problem but I just feel more comfortable with the slightly longer front end.

    50mm stem, 740 bars. Same as the DH bike

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by general lee View Post
    My arms are slightly longer proportional to my height which figures in a bit but that's not really the reason. I used med frames for all my dh race bikes for a long time but they started feeling more cramped as 8" forks and geometry changes made riding less upright and more evenly over the entire bike a lot faster and efficient. I felt like my '08 Sunday would have been perfect with the top and downtube off a large, same with my original Evil Revolt. Even since then I've ridden mostly larges since few companies have totally retooled their geometry around having a longer front end. I heard a from a few product managers that they were considering going to Small, Med, Med-long, XLarge but it's a tough call when people have really been conditioned to think of bikes only in terms of seat tube height and effective TT length (which means nothing as soon as you stand up). Instead of getting on a bike an thinking 'this feels good when I sit on it' you might want to consider what it feels like when you stand on it. Make sense?

    At 5'10 you could go either way depending how you like to be positioned on the bike. I come from more of a DH racing background and prefer a bit more aggressive position on a bike. In this case if you're choosing between sizes it's best to go bigger than smaller since the latter starts to make your hands feel like they're near your waste and your chest and head way ahead of them; not exactly a good feeling.

    I could probably ride a medium with no problem but I just feel more comfortable with the slightly longer front end.

    50mm stem, 740 bars. Same as the DH bike

    Thanks for that write up Lee, I was worried about my own choice of Large even though I am 6', I thought maybe I would need a shorter stem or something but I think i will keep my 60mm to try it out for now after reading this.

  24. #424
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    What a bike!!! Build and color: Great!!

    Is the travel of the fork 160 or 180mm?

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailinger View Post
    What a bike!!! Build and color: Great!!

    Is the travel of the fork 160 or 180mm?
    Thanks, I'm pretty psyched on how it turned out. Jay at Banshee really went out of his way to sort everything out for me, and Spank came through with some pretty sweet wheels for me to test as well. Now if it would just stop raining here in Taipei....

    Fork is 160mm, same as the rear. Any more than that and I'd just get on a DH bike.

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailinger View Post
    What a bike!!! Build and color: Great!!

    Is the travel of the fork 160 or 180mm?
    With the fox talas is easy to see if the fork is 160 or 180 in side pic, since the 180 goes below the hub like a cm. I have a 180 in my rune v2
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-v2ready.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-mirune.jpg  

    Last edited by CALULO; 12-04-2012 at 08:14 PM.

  27. #427
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    Put mine together today. Specs are: Medium frame, Lyric RC2dh 170mm, Elka shock, spank subrosa rims, hope pro 2 evo hubs, pro taper 780mm bars, gravity dropper, xt brakes, 1x10 sram x7, mrp mini g2 sl chain guide (for now). Will try and weigh it tomorrow after riding.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-uploadfromtaptalk1354674215641.jpg  


  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haus Boss View Post
    General Lee, you have a sweet bike and great piece on Vital about Banshee!

    How are the Oozy rims holding up? I'm thinking of building up some new wheels once Spank sends over another shipment to N. America.

    General Lee's bike:

    Is that as far forward as you can clock the chainguide?

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardtails Are Better View Post
    Is that as far forward as you can clock the chainguide?
    yes... i have the same one and it has to be almost as far counter clockwise as it can go or it hits the chainstay

  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardtails Are Better View Post
    Is that as far forward as you can clock the chainguide?
    With this particular e13 guide and chainring setup yes. But it doesn't rub the chain anywhere in any gear and retention certainly isn't compromised any. Could space the ring and guide out further but as it is now the chain line is perfect.

    I've since taken the dremel to the upper-inner corner of the lower guide and shaved off a few mm (it's really thick on the inner edge) and that took care of the clearance issue. No change in performance, but aesthetically it looks better now that it's rotated a bit more forward.

    Not really a fault of Banshee or ethirteen, it's impossible to assure perfect frame/guide compatibility across all models and ring sizes.

    only a few more posts and I can show you a pic

  31. #431
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    Where are all the black ano. frames ... ?

    Waiting can be soooo cruel!
    freedom is the ability to go where you want, when u want

  32. #432
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    Put a few miles on the new bike today. Had to cut it short due to some headset issues, so I didn't get to push it on the dh part. But... It felt great on the climbs; no bobbing, lots of traction, but not harsh either. And no more pedal feedback!

    Can't wait to get some real rides on it.

    Weight was 36.5lbs by the way.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2012-12-05_11-37-10_336.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2012-12-05_12-22-25_583.jpg  

    Last edited by helidave; 12-05-2012 at 10:03 PM.

  33. #433
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    anyone with 22/36 setup?

  34. #434
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    Had a chance to take a few proper pics up in the Taipei hills this afternoon:





    26", 12x142, low and slack


    Tire clearance is never going to be an issue

  35. #435
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    Wow, the blue color is absolutely amazing!

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by CALULO View Post
    With the fox talas is easy to see if the fork is 160 or 180 in side pic, since the 180 goes below the hub like a cm. I have a 180 in my rune v2
    Very nice bike!!!

  37. #437
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    Alright, enough lurking. Time to post...

    Anything that will fit from my V1.5 will be going on the V2. Minus the BB and cables/housings. I dug up an older M-660 FD and like builttoride mentioned there is a tad bit of clearance issues. Nothing that 5 minutes with a dremel couldn't fix. I shaved away some of the plastic housing where the adjustment screws are as well as the flange on the rear of the cage. Both of these areas were contacting the swingarm strut. Now the only issue is at full travel the lower link barely contacts the cable pinch bolt. This may be adjusted out once I get the crank installed. Just gotta wait and see.

    Has anyone had issues with the longer HT length? I'm hoping with the zs lower headset and removing the one 4mm'ish spacer my steerer will be long enough!

    Hopefully I'll have build pics up on Saturday! ...and a ride report on Sunday!


  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by MR.A View Post
    anyone with 22/36 setup?
    I have a 22/32/44 with the 44 removed, I had the same with the old Rune, but with a MRP 2x chain guide, my mechanic could not fit the chain guide on the V2 with this crankset, i havent had the time to get in more details, but the guys at Banshee are waiting for more details and pics to have it fit, i Also mean to get the new X.0 22/36 as soon as they are available ...

  39. #439
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    builttoride:

    Should I be afraid to run a -2degree cups on the new Rune with 180mm fork and slackest geometry setting? I am 250lb geared and have an XL frame on order ( with 150mm dropouts for that extra rigidity ).

    I don't drop to flat all that much - or ever - but that combo is both tempting and worrying at the same time...

  40. #440
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    Is that really the bike to ride 63 degrees with??? Not long ago I stated the fact, proven by a math formula, that with every degree you add approx. 0.5" to the wheelbase.
    With -2 degrees and an XL frame you end up with 48.5" wheelbase....

  41. #441
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    Wheelbase does not bother me at all. I rode bikes with even more then that. There are no tight switchbacks anywhere I ride.

    What I want is a bike that can go up and down with as little compromise as possible, and all the options on the market at the moment are either too small ( I am 6'5" ) or compromised one way or another. Rune V2 is already a good bet at a bike that can do all and with a slacker HA it might actually be even better. Experiment is needed.

  42. #442
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    Every rider has to follow its own likings. I am 6.2 and the last bike I tried in XL felt like an oil tanker when cornering in slower, technical sections. I choose the L version and ride it with 66 degrees max. Therefor 63 degrees sounds kinky to me.
    But go your own way and have fun….

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haus Boss View Post
    My V2 came in yesterday. One word that describes the new Rune, BURLY with a capital B. This is a hucker's AM bike.
    that is good to know. i went with a spitfire as i wanted to try something different after many years on a rune, and my feeling that the v2 was going to be a burlier bike. i swapped the 36 on my v1 rune to a revelation and haven't felt like it gives up anything for the kind of riding i do (mostly north shore), so i was confident in my decision but still a bit unsure. thanks for the feedback

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by grazertourer View Post
    Wow, the blue color is absolutely amazing!
    X2...really nice
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  45. #445
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    I would consider the Spitfire more suited to my needs, but they do seem pretty similar given that they both suit the same fork, HTA is only a degree off, CS is similar etc. The suspension characteristics LOOK like they'd be similar because the frame appearance is so similar but I am curious how different they ride as I know a small change to link length can have a major effect. I'm sure there's weight difference but a pound isn't a big deal once you add everything else onto the frame. I'd probably run the Rune in the steep setting and the Spitty in the mid setting.

    Thing is, I LOVE that blue.

  46. #446
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    You're also adding another 20mm to the axle to crown on a180mm fork. In the slack setting you're probably pushing closer to 64 degrees already.

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by CALULO View Post
    With the fox talas is easy to see if the fork is 160 or 180 in side pic, since the 180 goes below the hub like a cm. I have a 180 in my rune v2
    thank you, thats a really worthy information!

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by uzurpator View Post
    builttoride:

    Should I be afraid to run a -2degree cups on the new Rune with 180mm fork and slackest geometry setting? I am 250lb geared and have an XL frame on order ( with 150mm dropouts for that extra rigidity ).

    I don't drop to flat all that much - or ever - but that combo is both tempting and worrying at the same time...
    This is not something I can reccomend. The 180mm fork option is only covered if running a standard zero stack headset. If you ran 180mm fork with -2degrees youd end up with a headangle slacker than almost all DH bikes ~62.5 degrees. This combined with the long fork and your weight would run potential of over stressing the frame. Plus it really wouldn't handle very well on vast majority of terrain.
    Last edited by builttoride; 12-07-2012 at 06:43 AM.
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  49. #449
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    Keith, what's the minimum seat post insert depth of the L frame?

  50. #450
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    100mm or whatever your seatpost suggests, whichever is deeper. But use some common sense if you are very heavy rider and insert the post further to avoid having to buy a new post or front triangle.
    Last edited by builttoride; 12-08-2012 at 05:16 AM.
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  51. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    This is not something I can reccomend. The 180mm fork option is only covered if running a standard zero stack headset. If you ran 180mm fork with -2degrees youd end up with a wheelbase slacker than almost all DH bikes ~62.5 degrees. This combined with the long fork and your weight would run potential of over stressing the frame. Plus it really wouldn't handle very well on vast majority of terrain.

  52. #452
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    100mm or whatever your seatpost suggests, whichever is deeper.
    Thanks a lot!

  53. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by uzurpator View Post
    builttoride:

    Should I be afraid to run a -2degree cups on the new Rune with 180mm fork and slackest geometry setting? I am 250lb geared and have an XL frame on order ( with 150mm dropouts for that extra rigidity ).

    I don't drop to flat all that much - or ever - but that combo is both tempting and worrying at the same time...
    I think Orange County Choppers builds what you're looking for....

    Seriously though - that's full DH geometry (and possibly more as Keith pointed out). You might as well get a DH bike because a) it will be designed to withstand abuse at that geo and b) it's going to lose a lot of its non-DH properties at that point anyway. Putting the front wheel way out there will put your weight further back on the bike, etc.

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by general lee View Post
    My arms are slightly longer proportional to my height which figures in a bit but that's not really the reason. I used med frames for all my dh race bikes for a long time but they started feeling more cramped as 8" forks and geometry changes made riding less upright and more evenly over the entire bike a lot faster and efficient. I felt like my '08 Sunday would have been perfect with the top and downtube off a large, same with my original Evil Revolt. Even since then I've ridden mostly larges since few companies have totally retooled their geometry around having a longer front end. I heard a from a few product managers that they were considering going to Small, Med, Med-long, XLarge but it's a tough call when people have really been conditioned to think of bikes only in terms of seat tube height and effective TT length (which means nothing as soon as you stand up). Instead of getting on a bike an thinking 'this feels good when I sit on it' you might want to consider what it feels like when you stand on it. Make sense?

    At 5'10 you could go either way depending how you like to be positioned on the bike. I come from more of a DH racing background and prefer a bit more aggressive position on a bike. In this case if you're choosing between sizes it's best to go bigger than smaller since the latter starts to make your hands feel like they're near your waste and your chest and head way ahead of them; not exactly a good feeling.

    I could probably ride a medium with no problem but I just feel more comfortable with the slightly longer front end.

    50mm stem, 740 bars. Same as the DH bike
    Thanks for thoroughtful response!

    I have been thinking back and forth. I agree with all in the text. Interesting how bike industry progressed forward, my 10 years old Norco dh medium is about same size as Sunday small which I have both. Now Rune Large is longer than Sunday Large. Even Mondraker Summum is such "extreme" case with 10mm stem and crazy long TT/WB. Now I notice that current dh frames have more steep SA (scott gambler has over 76degrees ).

    Of course it is reach measurement we talk now as realistic comparison of data, it would be no brainer picking size for Dh riding (since one rides down with the bike),

    but how about it when one climbs up, jumps, cornering with longer TT (say reach) and shorter stem (30-35mm) if we talk about versatile AM bike for most variety of tracks. It is not that climbing is my priority.

    I will test 50mm at first and see what happens. How long hands do you have if I may ask because I think my hands outstreched themselvesby playing too much basketball Honestly I need search for "unproportional" size for limbs to check my body.

    Now to last important point: attack position. I think it makes sense to have forward position to get balanced traction of both wheels when one rides short chainstay as Rune's. I dont think I usually ride forward but I will try it since I have not enough skills to push traction limit in front.

    Btw nice color of your frame! I changed size to L for order , it is safer bet going slightly larger, I assume.
    Last edited by tomasis; 12-07-2012 at 08:56 AM.

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by grazertourer View Post
    @tomasis
    I am 5'11 (180cm) and I ordered a large Rune (it felt great when I sat on it at the Eurobike show). I am currently riding a Liteville 301 in L, but I had a 301 in M before. In retrospective, it was a very wise decision to switch to the larger frame size. Now I am using a shorter stem, which results in almost the same length but gives me more control in extremely steep sections. Since the chainstays did not grow with the larger frame it feels as versatile as the M, but it's much better when I am going fast.

    I will go for L + 30mm stem.
    thanks for the hint. how it feels on other areas except downhill with short stem (30mm). For example, climbing up, big/long jumps, cornering, berms? also in typical am/enduro conditions.

    Im curious what challenges it brings up with such short stem.

  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    100mm or whatever your seatpost suggests, whichever is deeper.
    Only 100mm...
    Even my Wildcard has 110mm insert to meet the bottom joint of the top tube with the seat tube - and thatīs for a 400mm one....

  57. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    Only 100mm...
    Even my Wildcard has 110mm insert to meet the bottom joint of the top tube with the seat tube - and thatīs for a 400mm one....
    What does that have to do with anything?

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by LostBoyScout View Post
    What does that have to do with anything?
    As far as I know this is the worldwide standard for minimum insert of a seatpost into a frame to not crack the frame at the seattube. On my WC it is 110mm with 400m Seattube on the Nicolai Helius AM it is approx. 160mm!!! with 475mm seattube.
    And that has nothing to do with the satndard 90-100mm minimum insert of the seatpost itself.

    Thatīs all...

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    As far as I know this is the worldwide standard for minimum insert of a seatpost into a frame to not crack the frame at the seattube. On my WC it is 110mm with 400m Seattube on the Nicolai Helius AM it is approx. 160mm!!! with 475mm seattube.
    And that has nothing to do with the satndard 90-100mm minimum insert of the seatpost itself.

    Thatīs all...
    The seat tube brace on the Rune is pretty burly. IMO it's up to the frame designer to ensure that a post at minimum insertion will not break the frame, which it looks like Keith has done. Comparing the Rune to the WC is apples and oranges IMO

  60. #460
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    One thing I would say is that riders have to use some common sense on this stuff... if you are a heavy guy, then I'd recommend getting a longer post for more seatpost insertion. While the seat tube is really pretty strong (not aware of seatpost overload ever damaging a banshee frame), if you weigh 300lbs and run a post at minimum insertion, then your asking for trouble, and warranty does not cover overload.
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  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by LostBoyScout View Post
    The seat tube brace on the Rune is pretty burly. IMO it's up to the frame designer to ensure that a post at minimum insertion will not break the frame, which it looks like Keith has done. Comparing the Rune to the WC is apples and oranges IMO
    You are right that Keith already confirmed that 100mm insertion is enough.
    That should be enough and otherwise there still is the crash replacement...
    I would personally go with the standard, because 110 or 120mm of insertion will not change a lot but will perhaps save the frame. I already do it with the WC and THAT is also a burly frame with 3,7kg weight and made for freeriding....

    I think it is all said now, so move on with other topics and Ride on....

  62. #462
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    My V2 is built. As for the M-660 FD, it don't fit. Neither does the Stinger with my granny ring. I was hoping I'd have good luck with that as I did on both my V1 & V1.5 frames but that wasn't the case. So until I can get my hands on a new 1x10 drivetrain, I ditched my granny ring and set up the FD as an upper guide. Needless to say I am stoked to get out to the trails.


  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by romar View Post
    My V2 is built. As for the M-660 FD, it don't fit. Neither does the Stinger with my granny ring. I was hoping I'd have good luck with that as I did on both my V1 & V1.5 frames but that wasn't the case. So until I can get my hands on a new 1x10 drivetrain, I ditched my granny ring and set up the FD as an upper guide. Needless to say I am stoked to get out to the trails.

    Nice built and wheelset. Did you ever had issues with the iodine riding AM/Enduro style?

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by romar View Post
    My V2 is built. As for the M-660 FD, it don't fit. Neither does the Stinger with my granny ring. I was hoping I'd have good luck with that as I did on both my V1 & V1.5 frames but that wasn't the case. So until I can get my hands on a new 1x10 drivetrain, I ditched my granny ring and set up the FD as an upper guide. Needless to say I am stoked to get out to the trails.

    I can confirm that the Shimano FD-M785 E Type works. Also looking at the cage it looks like it has plenty of room for a 9 speed chain.

    Universal Cycles -- Shimano FD-M785 E Type Front Derailleur

  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    Nice built and wheelset. Did you ever had issues with the iodine riding AM/Enduro style?
    I must admit that I initially purchased this wheelset for the bling factor (I fell in love with the anno black build with orange bits Banshee had done on the V1 Rune and had to replicate!) Been riding them hard and they have been holding up a LOT better than expected. I've had zero freehub issuses which was probably one of the biggest problems with the earlier wheelsets from CB. I have managed to pop a spoke and put a slight flat spot on the rear hoop, and cased the front into a sharp rock which collapsed the rim (check out the front rim right at 12 o'clock). All in all I'm quite happy with them however due to the proprietary parts I don't think I'd buy another set. I'm thinking Hadley's and Stan's for the springtime!

    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    I can confirm that the Shimano FD-M785 E Type works. Also looking at the cage it looks like it has plenty of room for a 9 speed chain.

    Universal Cycles -- Shimano FD-M785 E Type Front Derailleur
    Thanks for the info darkslide. Still not too sure which direction I'd like to go. I may need to do a bit more research and see which 2x + Stinger combination will work or I may just give 1X10 a go. Gotta see how this thing pedals around here!

  66. #466
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    Man all of these pictures are making me jealous. I have had my frame for 2 weeks as of Friday and I have been wating for a few parts to arrive, maunily the FD as I did not know my old one would not work at first.

    Thank god I have a Dh bike and could get out for some shuttle runs today

  67. #467
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    Pictures of bikes sitting in living rooms are ok but.....


    Swapped out the 1.25" rise 777's for .5" Inch Atlas'. Much better.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-trailwork-6.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-trailwork-8.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-trailwork-9.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-trailwork-13.jpg  


  68. #468
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    Rune V2and CCDB air

    Hi,
    in the package is the CCDB air. Plus, there's 3 blue Reduce.
    Then the blue reducer installed?

  69. #469
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    Is there a reason except weight that none of you guys opted for the CCDB Air shock????

  70. #470
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    I hope not because I did...

  71. #471
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    Wow, there is one...

    In theory the CCDB should be superior in most riding conditions.
    I would have expected the Spitfire fanboys to go with the FOX while the RUNE maniacs stay with the DB-Air.
    Would be interesting to know the reason. In Germany the price difference between the two is minimal so no reason to stay away from the assumed "better" shock.

  72. #472
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    AFAIR It's not available with DBAir yet. Alas as a kit

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    Pictures of bikes sitting in living rooms are ok but.....

    Could not agree more!!



  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by romar View Post
    Could not agree more!!


    What size bars are you riding there? They look tiny for your size!

    Awesome pictures btw

  75. #475
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    I didn't get a DBAir because they weren't available when I ordered my frame, I intend to upgrade to the DBAir when I can.

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    What size bars are you riding there? They look tiny for your size!

    Awesome pictures btw
    I'm running the 745mm Sunline V1 bars. They feel pretty good.

  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by romar View Post
    I'm running the 745mm Sunline V1 bars. They feel pretty good.
    Maybe your just huge then lol. Hard to tell in a picture they just did not seem wide compared to your shoulders.

  78. #478
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    I went for the fox because of the ease of adjustment. The DB Air seems to be over my head for getting it fine tuned.

  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by romar View Post
    Could not agree more!!


    Awesome! Need to get some action pics as well.

    The Syncline, Washington across the Columbia River from Hood River, Oregon. Great place for winter riding.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-syncline-3.jpg  

    Last edited by darkslide18; 12-09-2012 at 09:03 PM.

  80. #480
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    Banshee Rune, L, CTD, 142x12,blue => 3775g, that's fine for me! (ctd = 300g, dropouts+axle ~230g)

    Details:

    Frame: Banshee Rune, L, Fox CTD, blue, 142x12 axle, dropouts (3775g)
    Front wheel: Hope Pro2, Supercomp, Flow EX
    Rear Wheel: XT 142mm, Supercomp, Flow EX
    Fork: Fox Van R 160
    Stem: Syntace Megaforce2 30mm
    Handlebar: Syntace VEctor Carbon 740mm
    Grips: Syntace
    brakes: Shimano SLX, 203mm, 180mm
    Shifter: Shimano XT iSpec
    Crankset: Shimano XT, 22/32
    Bashguard: Raceface light 32
    F-Derailleur: Shimano XT
    r-Derailleur: Shimano XT shadow+
    Cassette: Shimano XT
    Tyres: Muddy Mary 2,5 Trailstar, Highroller 2 Exo 2,4 (front with tube, rear with 60ml sealant)
    Pedals: Superstarcomponents
    Headset: Workscomponents -1,5° (ZS44/ZS56 - built to order! Thanks!) 63,5 - 64,5° HA (I am doing lots of technical/steep trail riding. 99,9% of the people out there will be perfectly fine without an angled headset).

    weight: 14,85kg

    That's how it looked like when it arrived. Sorry for the shaking hands....


    Tataaaaa!










    Uphill Position (180cm, normal/short - ok, definitely no long legs)



    Everything was fine when I built it. The bike is extremely stiff, there's hardly any flexing at the read end. My measurements basically comfirmed the geometry chart from the website. Only the top tube lenght i measured was 600mm instead of 610mm. The newest XT fron derailleur fits well (don't mount it too low! It will touch the black KS Link strut when fully compressed). I just looks amazing!!! Sice I was sic the last few days I couldn't ride it, but today....it's the day!!!

    I hope you can see the pictures...

    Thanks to everyday26 for the awesome support and ultra-fast shipping!
    Last edited by grazertourer; 12-09-2012 at 11:49 PM.

  81. #481
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    That looks awesome!!

    great pictures.

  82. #482
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    awesome :up: !

  83. #483
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    I like yellow rune proto, but that blue definitely looks awesome.

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by tailung View Post
    I like yellow rune proto, but that blue definitely looks awesome.
    I agree! And iIt's also taking a while before we see a black one built!!

  85. #485
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    After two and a half hours of trail surfing, I can say that the new Rune is f...reaking awesome!

    Keith, well done! Wow!

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    I can confirm that the Shimano FD-M785 E Type works. Also looking at the cage it looks like it has plenty of room for a 9 speed chain.

    Universal Cycles -- Shimano FD-M785 E Type Front Derailleur
    How about the Shimano FD-M665 E Type which is the SLX 9 speed compact double specific FD? Should work fine with 10 speed stuff out back.

    Universal Cycles -- Shimano FD-M665 SLX E Type Front Derailleur - 9 Speed
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  87. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    Great place for winter riding.
    Winter?))) Ahahahha THI IS WINTER...RUSIAN WINTER!

    <iframe data-link="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDJPOfNbrUo" frameBorder="0" height="370" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/XDJPOfNbrUo" width="490"></iframe>


    in wayting Rune V2 (
    My local spot: http://thespot.pro/

  88. #488
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    Hey guys, in Spring I'll be getting my first bike and I'm leaning towards the Banshee. Budget is $4000 tops and with my limited knowledge of all the components I'm struggling to come up with a build. To save a bit of money on the build, Im considering just going with a one chainring setup. Now I'm looking for some input on what sort of gear ratios to get to get the most out of a single chainring goes. And also, is it hard to go from a single to a double setup with the same cranks?

    The Banshee Comp seems like it will be about $3500, should I consider that or go with my own build?

  89. #489
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    One more reason to love this brand...

    I could bring my favorite Brand even in the trekking days..
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2012-12-10-13.45.17.jpg  


  90. #490
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    I think prime uses same hanger as runes 142x12 does?

    Where you guys in europe order these?

  91. #491
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    on bikeinsel.com or dirty-stuff.de

  92. #492
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    Rune V2




  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by sakucee View Post
    I think prime uses same hanger as runes 142x12 does?

    Where you guys in europe order these?
    JustBikes.
    info@justbikes.pt
    Justbikes
    Last edited by rokesoke; 12-11-2012 at 03:06 PM.

  94. #494
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    Quote Originally Posted by romar View Post
    Could not agree more!!


    I know those trails

    Bike looks like a great fit for Vietnam. How do you like it for the New England riding. I am thinking of swithcing up from my MojoSL to something with a bit more travel. The V2 is on my short list.

  95. #495
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    Rune V2and CCDB air

    Builttoride write:

    builttoride
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    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Any more info on the internal spacers? I ask because the frame warrantys are only available from Trident with the Fox Float or no shock, so if I wanted to buy a CCDB air and get the HV can just wondering what internal spacers i would need.

    Rune spec for the DBair is Xvol can with 1 large volume spacer. Base settings are as follows:

    LSR - 14 clicks in
    LSC - 10 clicks in
    HSR - 2 turns in
    HSC - 2 turns in


    Did everyone knows that the large VOLUMEN SPACER is built by Cane Creek? Or is it homemade?

    DBAir Volume Adjustment - YouTube

  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeman_2 View Post
    Builttoride write:

    builttoride
    mtbr member


    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Any more info on the internal spacers? I ask because the frame warrantys are only available from Trident with the Fox Float or no shock, so if I wanted to buy a CCDB air and get the HV can just wondering what internal spacers i would need.

    Rune spec for the DBair is Xvol can with 1 large volume spacer. Base settings are as follows:

    LSR - 14 clicks in
    LSC - 10 clicks in
    HSR - 2 turns in
    HSC - 2 turns in


    Did everyone knows that the large VOLUMEN SPACER is built by Cane Creek? Or is it homemade?

    DBAir Volume Adjustment - YouTube

    Cane Creek make the large volume air cans and spacers.
    Last edited by builttoride; 12-13-2012 at 03:05 AM.
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  97. #497
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    builttoride:

    Another question from the series "I want to break my frame, is that ok?"

    I noticed that Rune has the ISCG tabs on the same plane as the BB shell face. Experience taught me that this often causes interference with the granny when using a Stinger-like chain guides.

    Since I will be running a double in front, this is an issue for me. I will be using Race Face Atlas cranks - so I only have about 2mm of chainline adjustment due to the retarded way RF cranks set the bearing pre-load.

    Is there a concete reason for such placement of the ISCG tabs? AFAIR the standard does not specify that and many frames which are sold with 2x10 have the tabs recessed some to avoid the problem above. My ex Spesh enduro had the tabs recessed by 2.5mm from the bb shell face.

    As for my question - shaving 1mm or so of material from the tabs is a no-go warranty wise - right?

  98. #498
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    Meet Das Runestein Z
    I really thought this bike was going to be around 32lb, but it's right around 33. Feels great, can't wait to go hit some dirt tomorrow. Although, I'm a little disappointed about the bushing play with the DBair. Waiting to hear back from Banshee/Trident regarding this.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_4986-1-.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-p1010860.jpg  

    Last edited by Haus Boss; 12-13-2012 at 08:13 PM.

  99. #499
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    Very nice! size large?
    Ride On!

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Very nice! size large?
    I would guess is a medium ...

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