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  1. #776
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironxcross View Post
    Only shocks I've seen so far seem to be the fox CTD and CCDB air, any other good options? Anyone built one with a monarch plus by chance? Or at least know if the monarch plus would work with the rune v2??
    I am, a Monarch RC3 plus with HV/low tune which runs pretty good, almost too linear though. Great for the bumps, but alway use all my travel even with adding 20psi from previous bike. As Keith suggested go low tune for plush, mid tune for more compression damping and pedability. He recommends mid level compression tune with low rebound. My Monarch is the opposite with low compression, mid rebound and only run 4 clicks of rebound on it. Bike climb the tech great w/low tune and nice and smooth on the way down, I just manually add some compression for the hits.
    Ride On!

  2. #777
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironxcross View Post
    Only shocks I've seen so far seem to be the fox CTD and CCDB air, any other good options? Anyone built one with a monarch plus by chance? Or at least know if the monarch plus would work with the rune v2??
    The Elka is pretty awesome, unless you're dead set on air.

  3. #778
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    I am, a Monarch RC3 plus with HV/low tune which runs pretty good, almost too linear though. Great for the bumps, but alway use all my travel even with adding 20psi from previous bike. As Keith suggested go low tune for plush, mid tune for more compression damping and pedability. He recommends mid level compression tune with low rebound. My Monarch is the opposite with low compression, mid rebound and only run 4 clicks of rebound on it. Bike climb the tech great w/low tune and nice and smooth on the way down, I just manually add some compression for the hits.
    Awesome info, sounds like I'd be happy with the mid tune. Pretty set on air for weight reasons and what I'll use it for. If money was no object I'd definitely consider a ti coil, but I'm trying to keep the budget reasonable and the xx1 drive-train isn't making that easy.

  4. #779
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    I am, a Monarch RC3 plus with HV/low tune which runs pretty good, almost too linear though. Great for the bumps, but alway use all my travel even with adding 20psi from previous bike. As Keith suggested go low tune for plush, mid tune for more compression damping and pedability. He recommends mid level compression tune with low rebound. My Monarch is the opposite with low compression, mid rebound and only run 4 clicks of rebound on it. Bike climb the tech great w/low tune and nice and smooth on the way down, I just manually add some compression for the hits.
    I'm going to give the Fox CTD a little longer before I end up selling it. Way too linear. Ordered a pack of spacers to throw in the air can to see if I can get just a little more ramp up and mid stroke support. As it is now it feels a little dead in the rear. Feels like I'm riding with a blown rear tire.

    By low rebound do you mean faster or slower?

  5. #780
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    I'm going to give the Fox CTD a little longer before I end up selling it. Way too linear. Ordered a pack of spacers to throw in the air can to see if I can get just a little more ramp up and mid stroke support.
    This pretty much parallels my thoughts as well. The stock shock is way under-valved.


  6. #781
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    Yeah, that's what I had to do with the Fox RP3 on the Yeti SB66 with low compression, low rebound tune, would result in blasting thru the travel a bit too easy and bottom out on the smallest of hits even with proper sag. Went with the Fox medium volume spacer and it gave more end range travel support without altering the feel of the suspension too much.

    By low rebound, I am referring to the manufacturer's tune of the shock, which would equate to slower rebound. The Monarchs are kind of confusing in that you can get them stock in almost any configuration: high volume/low volume, low/mid/high compression, low/mid/high rebound tune. Keith suggested to me, the Rune works best with mid compression, low rebound tune by the shock manufacturer. So, I run my Monarch on external mid-compression setting most of the time and minimal when wanting uber plush thru the chatter and rocks.
    Ride On!

  7. #782
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Yeah, that's what I had to do with the Fox RP3 on the Yeti SB66 with low compression, low rebound tune, would result in blasting thru the travel a bit too easy and bottom out on the smallest of hits even with proper sag. Went with the Fox medium volume spacer and it gave more end range travel support without altering the feel of the suspension too much.

    By low rebound, I am referring to the manufacturer's tune of the shock, which would equate to slower rebound. The Monarchs are kind of confusing in that you can get them stock in almost any configuration: high volume/low volume, low/mid/high compression, low/mid/high rebound tune. Keith suggested to me, the Rune works best with mid compression, low rebound tune by the shock manufacturer. So, I run my Monarch on external mid-compression setting most of the time and minimal when wanting uber plush thru the chatter and rocks.
    Gotcha. Didn't realize you were talking about the Manufacturers tune. Looking at the CTD it looks like it runs a mid comp tune and a low rebound tune. Maybe Ill play with speeding up the rebound a bit to try and alleviate the dead feeling I'm getting out back. Maybe it is packing a bit?

    For shits and giggles I swapped out my slack flip chips for the neutral ones. See that goes tomorrow.

  8. #783
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    For shits and giggles I swapped out my slack flip chips for the neutral ones. See that goes tomorrow.
    Cool, think you may like it better. Should be a bit easier to climb on and quite possibly faster and more responsive on the descents. That is what I found going from slack to neutral on mine. The bike feels a little more lively and balanced to me in that setting, even at Blackrock. I did not like descending in the slack/lower setting as much, opposite of what you would think there. Think the suspension kinematics might possibly be optimized and tuned around the neutral setting. Just a guess, but that is my observation so far. I may go back to the slack setting for annual bike park trip this summer.
    Ride On!

  9. #784
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    jgusta,

    -What is your weight?
    Do you know if the settings Keith gave you are universal?

    I'm asking because Antonio adviced (compression): M above 85 kg, L below 60 kg. All in between according to own preferences

  10. #785
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    anybody been running Bos VipR? can anyone comment it? tunning specs etc.

    Im still waiting for the frame and hope to get within a few days after a few months waiting. Excited.

    I have VipR laying and cannot wait to test out this. On the label it says "VIP01". I wonder what configuration does it has

  11. #786
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    NVM just noticed the date.

  12. #787
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    Quote Originally Posted by yancho View Post
    jgusta,

    -What is your weight?
    Do you know if the settings Keith gave you are universal?

    I'm asking because Antonio adviced (compression): M above 85 kg, L below 60 kg. All in between according to own preferences
    215 lbs ride weight
    Ride On!

  13. #788
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  14. #789
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    Hey guys, seeing all these builds and reading all the feedback means that my next bike will indeed be the Rune. I have a question though, much like General Lee, i come from a competitive DH background and i'm also the same height (5'11). Lee has gone for a large and i'm thinking of doing the same. I know Lee went for the large primarily for the advantages riding DH but i'm wondering if there any issues with climbing on what is a fairly long bike. This bike is going to be my only bike so i don't really want to mess it up in regards to size etc! Any help would be much appreciated!

  15. #790
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spooky221 View Post
    Hey guys, seeing all these builds and reading all the feedback means that my next bike will indeed be the Rune. I have a question though, much like General Lee, i come from a competitive DH background and i'm also the same height (5'11). Lee has gone for a large and i'm thinking of doing the same. I know Lee went for the large primarily for the advantages riding DH but i'm wondering if there any issues with climbing on what is a fairly long bike. This bike is going to be my only bike so i don't really want to mess it up in regards to size etc! Any help would be much appreciated!
    Hey Spooky221,

    I too am 5'11" (33.5" inseam) and rode a medium V1 with a 65mm stem which I always found a little cramped for general AM duties. I couldnt decide between M and L for my V2. Going by the numbers I thought the V2 Large might be a little long for me but I went with it, and have to say its perfect. The top tube really doesnt feel too long. I swapped out my stem to a 50mm and my bar to a 760mm and its dialled. The only thing I'd say is if you run a dropper post check how much post you need exposed. I have a 6" KS post and only have about 1" of post showing between the frame clamp and the post's collar. If you have shorter legs this may be a problem meaning you'd have to run a post with less drop.

    I'll stick up some pics of my build later. Hope this helps. The bike is great btw, rips DH and climbs way nicer than the V1.

  16. #791
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    I have a 6" KS post and only have about 1" of post showing between the frame clamp and the post's collar. If you have shorter legs this may be a problem meaning you'd have to run a post with less drop
    This is the KS Lev 150?

    murrayf can you do me a favour and measure the distance from the saddle rails to the bottom of the post collar, with the post extended?

    There was another thread about this, but it would be good to get it confirmed from a fellow Rune'r.

    Thanks.

  17. #792
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    Hey Spooky221,

    I too am 5'11" (33.5" inseam) and rode a medium V1 with a 65mm stem which I always found a little cramped for general AM duties. I couldnt decide between M and L for my V2. Going by the numbers I thought the V2 Large might be a little long for me but I went with it, and have to say its perfect. The top tube really doesnt feel too long. I swapped out my stem to a 50mm and my bar to a 760mm and its dialled. The only thing I'd say is if you run a dropper post check how much post you need exposed. I have a 6" KS post and only have about 1" of post showing between the frame clamp and the post's collar. If you have shorter legs this may be a problem meaning you'd have to run a post with less drop.

    I'll stick up some pics of my build later. Hope this helps. The bike is great btw, rips DH and climbs way nicer than the V1.
    Hey Murrayf,

    thanks for the feedback! I have a 33" inseam so reckon I'll go with the large. I think i'll run it with a 40mm stem and 750 bars. Don't plan to use a dropper at the moment (all my money is going towards the frame!) but i'll bear that in mind as i'm sure i'll get one at some point!

    Thanks again for the info and get those pics up!!
    Last edited by Spooky221; 02-11-2013 at 01:19 PM.

  18. #793
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    This is the KS Lev 150?

    murrayf can you do me a favour and measure the distance from the saddle rails to the bottom of the post collar, with the post extended?

    There was another thread about this, but it would be good to get it confirmed from a fellow Rune'r.

    Thanks.
    Hey ptd, sorry its an older 950 and actually a 5"/125mm, not 6". For reference it measures 7" from saddle rail to beneath the collar chamfer (as far inserted as the post could go).

  19. #794
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    Swapped out the Shimano XT kit and went with 1x10 SRAM X9 with an MRP Bling Ring.


  20. #795
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    A few pics of my build. Had 4 rides on it now and have to mirror what everyone else is saying. Faster down and way faster up than the old Rune.

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-runev2-01.jpg

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-runev2-02.jpg

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-runev2-16.jpg

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-runev2-05.jpg

    Note - the dropped chainstays on the Rune make it impossible to run the MRP G2 Mini in the correct position. I have it turned as far as it will go (anticlock) and the chain JUST clears the chainstay with an SLX GS rear mech, however with the Zee mech it does not because the chain doesnt get pulled downward enough from the guide pulley. So I had to remove the guide pulley and re-install my Bionicon guide. Works perfect, but isnt ideal.
    Last edited by murrayf; 02-12-2013 at 02:07 PM.

  21. #796
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    "Faster down and way faster up than the old Rune"

    So true, feels like a true "AM" bike to me. Whereas, most of everything else out there are just glorified trail bikes.

    Nice bike, congrats!
    Ride On!

  22. #797
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    Note - the dropped chainstays on the Rune make it impossible run the MRP G2 in the correct position. I have it turned as far as it will go (anticlock) and the chain JUST clears the chainstay with an SLX GS rear mech, however with the Zee mech it does not because the chain doesnt get pulled downward enough from the guide pulley. So I had to remove the guide pulley and re-install my Bionicon guide. Works perfect, but isnt ideal.
    That's what I'm worried about - I want to give the e13 TRS+ a try but from what I can "guess" when looking at my frame, is that there is not enough clearance for the guide pulley. I know that there are a few pulleysout there that can be run with the frame - but has anyone made any experience with the TRS+ in particular?

  23. #798
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    I'm running an SRS+ on my spitfire without any issue, rune is not far off spitfire for clearance, so I'm sure you can make it work. Worst case scenario you could grind a little section of the backplate to make it fit without sacrificing performance if needed.
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  24. #799
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    Note - the dropped chainstays on the Rune make it impossible run the MRP G2 in the correct position. I have it turned as far as it will go (anticlock) and the chain JUST clears the chainstay with an SLX GS rear mech, however with the Zee mech it does not because the chain doesnt get pulled downward enough from the guide pulley. So I had to remove the guide pulley and re-install my Bionicon guide. Works perfect, but isnt ideal.[/QUOTE

    What about the MRP Micro guide, 28t-32t?
    Old enough to know better, too old to give a F$cK

  25. #800
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    Note - the dropped chainstays on the Rune make it impossible run the MRP G2 in the correct position. I have it turned as far as it will go (anticlock) and the chain JUST clears the chainstay with an SLX GS rear mech, however with the Zee mech it does not because the chain doesnt get pulled downward enough from the guide pulley. So I had to remove the guide pulley and re-install my Bionicon guide. Works perfect, but isnt ideal.
    I don't have any problems with the G2 with my set up, XTR mid cage and 38t ring.

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