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  1. #2901
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    Quote Originally Posted by windv View Post
    Attachment 1104571Attachment 1104570

    That's my XL rune with 222x70mm shock, rocking something like 178mm of rear travel. BB is 344mm high. It feels great. I am running the vivid with ~35% sag. The rear triangle doesn't touch the seat tube when bottomed out. it's 14,9kg with the synthace W40 26" rims(150x12 rear axle and 20mm front) and fox van 36 180mm fork. guide brakes and 1x10 shimano drivetrain.

    will try fox float ctd 216 later on to see how both configurations compare...

    Removed the original paint and will be anodizing it soon in black, and than spraying some details with paint. Can't wait to see it ready
    Your shock eyelet doesn't touch the seattube either when you are fully extended?
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  2. #2902
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    No, it doesn't. I was sceptical too until I tried. There are at least 5mm between the seat tube and the shock eyelet. I don't know how a little bit longer shock will affect how the suspension works when it compresses the shock, but it feels alright. The frame works great with the vivid air. Better than my previous fsr/horst link type of suspension.

    if all its fine in a few rides, I will try using one offset bushing to bring the bb a bit lower.

  3. #2903
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    anyone got some confirmed info about changes on the 2017 rune frame?

  4. #2904
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiremux View Post
    anyone got some confirmed info about changes on the 2017 rune frame?
    2017 Banshee bikes: News, rumours, speculation etc
    Ѣ

  5. #2905
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    First ride today. I am happy. It climbs great, at rought stuff it s better than the nomad with no pedal feedback whatsoever. It corners on rails ( neutral settimg), to the point of puttinng a smile on your face with disbelive.
    Great bike. Two things i m Not so happy: first, i should have bought this frame a lot sooner
    2nd: didn t like the monarch. It was too harsh for my liking, maybe i used too much pressure, but i set it on 25%sag. It s a Mm, and while it felt ok on climbs / trails, it was too hard on dh trails. I ll reduce the psi and try again.

    Anyway, i am happy to ride a banshee bike again!

  6. #2906
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    Hope My awesome bike! Still going strong.

    Love my Banshee Rune V2. Been riding with her for 2 years already. They ride pretty darn well and climb nice but I'm not a strong climber btw. This bike able to take from all mountain to gnarly downhill(i mean Chaing Mai downhill track and Jabeka Downhill track).

    My next bike will be the Banshee Prime 2017 because it can use plus tires!

    Currently now riding the lowest setting.

    Wheelsets: Light Bicycle rim, DT swiss double butt spokes and Hope Pro 2 (44)
    Rear Shock: Vivid Air
    Fork: Manitou Mattoc Pro
    Pedal: Fireeye
    Crank: SLX with shimano BB
    Chain ring: Poiz Components
    Cassette: XT with wolftooth(40T) and KMC 10speed - Thinking of upgrading to Black cassette and black chain. hmmm
    Tires: Front High roller 2 Rear and Ardent 2 (27.5 x 2.4)
    Stems with handlebar: Transition(50mm) and Funn fatboy(750mm and 30mm rise)
    Seatpost: KS integra with raceface remote
    Saddle: Royal selle(Changing to SDG or Fabric)
    Grips: TMR imprint premiumBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-poc_2001.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-poc_2240.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-poc_2248.jpg

  7. #2907
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    Post Deleted
    Last edited by bansheeguy; 11-17-2016 at 10:46 AM. Reason: Forgot to quote

  8. #2908
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    Quote Originally Posted by drapeado View Post
    First ride today. I am happy. It climbs great, at rought stuff it s better than the nomad with no pedal feedback whatsoever. It corners on rails ( neutral settimg), to the point of puttinng a smile on your face with disbelive.
    Great bike. Two things i m Not so happy: first, i should have bought this frame a lot sooner
    2nd: didn t like the monarch. It was too harsh for my liking, maybe i used too much pressure, but i set it on 25%sag. It s a Mm, and while it felt ok on climbs / trails, it was too hard on dh trails. I ll reduce the psi and try again.

    Anyway, i am happy to ride a banshee bike again!
    You may also want to play with the compression a bit. I also prefer my Rune with a bit less sag ~24/25%. I think it climbs and descends best at this position and also rides higher in the travel. To get the right feeling with a m/m tune, try backing the compression out to a more open setting. I think this works really well for most trails. Only time I like to kick up the compression a bit, is on really fast/loose trails as I think in these scenarios it helps add a bit of traction and control. Hope this helps! Enjoy the Rune!

  9. #2909
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    ^^^^
    Thx mate for your help
    Well, i had four red rubber rings inside the shock, so i have removed them all and i m starting from zero, and glad i did it cause had another ride today, and it felt great, sag at 30%, and using all the stroke travel when needed, jumps and drops. The rear wheel is glued to the trail and it s hard to put in words how this bike behaves: it s plush, but poppy and fast, all at the same time!!! Never, ever rode a bike like this, and while i don t give a sh#t about strava, still today as the bike felt so good i have crushed some PRs, having a lot of fun and smiles on the process. Love this thing!!!
    One regret: why did i took so long to buy a banshee? Just want to ride it more and more now!

  10. #2910
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    Quote Originally Posted by drapeado View Post
    One regret: why did i took so long to buy a banshee? Just want to ride it more and more now!
    You're not the first and you won't be the last. Welcome to the world of Banshee..

  11. #2911
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    another stealth rune in XL with 222mm shock length for ~175mm of rear travel. Feels and works great with 180mm fork.
    It's a Vivid air with M/M tune without any rubber inside. ~30% sag and it feels soo great. I love the way the bike rides.

    I am considering shortening the seat tube by 15mm, or removing a bigger piece of it together with the gusset which holds the long seat tube.

    Has anyone used fox shock with corset air sleeve?

    Here are some pics. enjoy .

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-11-17-1927.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-11-18-1947.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-11-18-1955.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-11-18-1956.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-11-18-1961.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-11-18-1963.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-11-18-1967.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-11-19-1975.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-11-19-1977.jpg
    Ѣ

  12. #2912
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    Quote Originally Posted by windv View Post
    another stealth rune in XL with 222mm shock length for ~175mm of rear travel. Feels and works great with 180mm fork.
    No problem with warranty?

  13. #2913
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    Super pics!

  14. #2914
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    Quote Originally Posted by amrayo View Post
    No problem with warranty?
    it's 2013 frame and i am not first owner. I experiment without any concern.
    Ѣ

  15. #2915
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    Quote Originally Posted by windv View Post
    Attachment 1104571Attachment 1104570

    That's my XL rune with 222x70mm shock, rocking something like 178mm of rear travel. BB is 344mm high. It feels great. I am running the vivid with ~35% sag. The rear triangle doesn't touch the seat tube when bottomed out. it's 14,9kg with the synthace W40 26" rims(150x12 rear axle and 20mm front) and fox van 36 180mm fork. guide brakes and 1x10 shimano drivetrain.

    will try fox float ctd 216 later on to see how both configurations compare...

    Removed the original paint and will be anodizing it soon in black, and than spraying some details with paint. Can't wait to see it ready
    whats ur legs and arms length?

  16. #2916
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    Only have a couple of rides on mine, but to think 160mm isn t enough never crossed my mind!
    Anyone has some feedback about a bos kirk or even a float ctd, comparing with the debonair?

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    Daym i rly cant decide if the xl is fine for my choice, i spoke with seller and he says its to big for me and points on the table of size chart. Well between my current bike with 447 reach and banshee large with 455 is not a big difference.. I dont want to switch to bike with same size. I want to drop my 60mm stem for 35 or 40 which is not possible on my current set up, its dam short. I. 186cm tall with 89inseam, can i feel safe ordering the xl with 480reach?

  18. #2918
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiremux View Post
    Daym i rly cant decide if the xl is fine for my choice, i spoke with seller and he says its to big for me and points on the table of size chart. Well between my current bike with 447 reach and banshee large with 455 is not a big difference.. I dont want to switch to bike with same size. I want to drop my 60mm stem for 35 or 40 which is not possible on my current set up, its dam short. I. 186cm tall with 89inseam, can i feel safe ordering the xl with 480reach?
    when in doubt, go smaller

  19. #2919
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    Yeah but as i said, number saying that ill have pretty much the same bike, even with 60mm stem atm im very cramped, cant find balance on jumps and corners. Banshee with couple of mm more wont fix that, i dont want to use 50 or 60mm stems..

  20. #2920
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    Hi, question to windv and shiremux - how did you fit that 222 shock there? Is it slightly compressed all the time?

    Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk

  21. #2921
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    @midas, i dont have a Rune yet, im still deciding if i should get the frame AND if i do, should it be L or XL
    Anyway, i got a CCDB coil shock, anyone using it aswell with the rune? How it performs? I've heard that 20-30% of the end of travel is regressive, that would make a problem for a coil shock, any opinions?

  22. #2922
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    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

    I used a coil when I first got it. It wasn't bad. But you are right it regresses slightly toward the end of the stroke. I now use a jade and the bottom out bladder def helps when your deep in the travel.

    I have a recalled X2 lying around if that's something or interest. I'm leaving the coil on because it's now a shuttle rig...


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  23. #2923
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    What kind of bottom out bladder does it have? never seen this shock on my eyes, any more info about how it performs?

  24. #2924
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    It's a bladder system in the reservoir. Basically when the oil fills up in compression, the bladder starts compressing ramping up the compression rate.

    It's been awesome! Consistent damping and although I'm bottoming out, it never feels harsh.

    I just put it on a month or so ago since my x2 was unridable. So durability review is not quite there. But from what I gathered, self service looks pretty easy.


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  25. #2925
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    Shiet, 2 bad Canecreek has "only" HSC to prevent bottoming out, right when i bought my CC there have been plenty of new fox x2 coil shocks on sale for pretty much less or the same as i paid. Never been lucky with my trades..
    Anyway, that slighlty reggresive curve made me rethink my decision about banshee...

  26. #2926
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    X2 is an air shock. Do you mean dhx?

    If you are that concerned with the leverage rate, you could always put a two spring rate spring on there. When I have the cc coil, I never once bottomed hard. The rubber bumper does help the cause

    The rune has been the most capable, fun bike I've owned.


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  27. #2927
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiremux View Post
    Yeah but as i said, number saying that ill have pretty much the same bike, even with 60mm stem atm im very cramped, cant find balance on jumps and corners. Banshee with couple of mm more wont fix that, i dont want to use 50 or 60mm stems..
    A 40mm stem on the XL will give you 13mm more reach than your current setup. Should achieve what you want but are there any stack height issues?

  28. #2928
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiremux View Post
    Shiet, 2 bad Canecreek has "only" HSC to prevent bottoming out, right when i bought my CC there have been plenty of new fox x2 coil shocks on sale for pretty much less or the same as i paid. Never been lucky with my trades..
    Anyway, that slighlty reggresive curve made me rethink my decision about banshee...
    Myself and three other guys I know run RC4's on our Runes. Another mate runs a CCDB coil. None of us have any issues at all, absolutely love how the coil performs.

  29. #2929
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boom King View Post
    Myself and three other guys I know run RC4's on our Runes. Another mate runs a CCDB coil. None of us have any issues at all, absolutely love how the coil performs.
    I'm another big fan of coil on the Rune!

    I'm running the MRP Raze coil w/ 400# spring on mine. I weigh about 190lbs geared up. I love the set-up, have never experienced a "harsh" bottom out, and I definitely use full travel when needed. I feel like the progressiveness of the frame is just about right with the coil. I do however run a bit less Sag with this Spring rate ~25% which is how I've always preferred all Banshee frames over the years of riding them. A lot about suspension set-up is personal preference and riding style.

    Also for sizing, I'm 6'1" and ride a Large with a 35mm stem! Love it!

  30. #2930
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    I run a DVO jade coil, at least 2 others in Sandiego run the same.
    I also run 25% sag. 6'1" on a large with a 50mm. Love it.

  31. #2931
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanmj View Post
    I run a DVO jade coil, at least 2 others in Sandiego run the same.
    I also run 25% sag. 6'1" on a large with a 50mm. Love it.
    I love the jade!

    I should get another +25 lb spring rate if all you guys like the 25%. I'm close to 30 right now


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  32. #2932
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    I got a good deal on my spring, If I was going to put any more money into it id probably get a dual spring rate that lets me run 25% sag with no preload. I'm about 185-190 riding weight, my spring is a 400 so Id go 400/450

  33. #2933
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanmj View Post
    I got a good deal on my spring, If I was going to put any more money into it id probably get a dual spring rate that lets me run 25% sag with no preload. I'm about 185-190 riding weight, my spring is a 400 so Id go 400/450
    Yeah I'm 220 and run a 525 right now. Thinking about going to 550.


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  34. #2934
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanmj View Post
    I got a good deal on my spring, If I was going to put any more money into it id probably get a dual spring rate that lets me run 25% sag with no preload. I'm about 185-190 riding weight, my spring is a 400 so Id go 400/450
    I'm between 175 and 180 and was running a 400 spring that had me near 30%. Got a good deal on a 425 which is near on perfect for me.

  35. #2935
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junersun View Post
    Yeah I'm 220 and run a 525 right now. Thinking about going to 550.


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    Also remember steel springs can have quite a bit of variance/error. I've heard as much as +/- 5% is normal. That means my 400# could really be anywhere from 380#-420#, not sure how to know exactly without getting it tested. So 2 of the "same" spring rate could have very different actual results.

    I guess what I'm getting at, it don't take our recommendations as "perfect advice". Always best to try options if possible.
    Last edited by bansheeguy; 11-22-2016 at 07:45 PM. Reason: Wrong facts

  36. #2936
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    Quote Originally Posted by bansheeguy View Post
    Also remember steel springs can have quite a bit of variance/error. I've heard as much as +/- 5% is normal. That means my 400# could really be anywhere from 380#-420#, not sure how to know exactly without getting it tested. So 2 of the "same" spring rate could have very different actual results.

    I guess what I'm getting at, it don't take our recommendations as "perfect advice". Always best to try options if possible.
    For sure. I'm using the sls springs.


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  37. #2937
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boom King View Post
    A 40mm stem on the XL will give you 13mm more reach than your current setup. Should achieve what you want but are there any stack height issues?
    On my current rig none, on new rune not sure, seat tube gonna little bit higher but they are overall shortened for the 2017 so i think its gonna be just fine.
    Dual spring rate spring? Where can i get those in the Europe?

  38. #2938
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    Quote Originally Posted by bansheeguy View Post
    I'm another big fan of coil on the Rune!

    I'm running the MRP Raze coil w/ 400# spring on mine. I weigh about 190lbs geared up. I love the set-up, have never experienced a "harsh" bottom out, and I definitely use full travel when needed. I feel like the progressiveness of the frame is just about right with the coil. I do however run a bit less Sag with this Spring rate ~25% which is how I've always preferred all Banshee frames over the years of riding them. A lot about suspension set-up is personal preference and riding style.

    Also for sizing, I'm 6'1" and ride a Large with a 35mm stem! Love it!
    that seems very short reach for that stem with ur 6.1", do u do a lot of pedaling and climbs or mainly downs and bikeparks? Damn i cant fit on my 447 reach with 60 stem and feel like in a carton box that has no steering at all

  39. #2939
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiremux View Post
    that seems very short reach for that stem with ur 6.1", do u do a lot of pedaling and climbs or mainly downs and bikeparks? Damn i cant fit on my 447 reach with 60 stem and feel like in a carton box that has no steering at all
    I size my bikes for the standing "attach/neutral position", as in all reality, the times I'm standing are most of the fun ones, and the reason I ride a bike like the Rune! This is obviously within reason, as I don't want my knees knocking bars etc. when I am seated and climbing. I do plenty of climbing, not much at the park. This set up climbs great! I do prefer to be more upright when climbing so I ran roll my shoulders back and open up my lungs (opposite of traditional road style bike fits). Seat is slid forward in the rails and pointed down pretty far to be comfortable when moving forward on steep ups.

    I think other components make a big difference too. Wide bars can massively change the feel. I'm running the 800mm SIXC bars, all though I keep threatening to cut them to 770 or 780 due to all the tight trails where I live, but haven't committed as I do love the feel of 800. I also run 170mm cranks for better pedal clearance in the rough stuff. I've got a 170mm MRP Stage fork, and about 1.25" of spacers under the stem, so a pretty high front end (MRP 170 is about the same axle to crown as a Pike 160) . So all in all, I guess you could say my set up is not very "traditional"! Works great for me though, and I've been setting up my Banshee's this way for years! I feel like I've got a super comfortable climbing position, and the bike rips in all ways coming back down! Playful, stable, nimble, the full package! I'm stoked!

  40. #2940
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    ^^^ On another note, if I was still racing, I might consider sizing up to a large as the longer wheelbase is a bit more forgiving at "stupid fast" speeds and probably faster over the long run when on the clock. However the XL's I've ridden weren't as playful for me, and I missed that when riding them, so it's an easy choice now that I don't race anymore.

  41. #2941
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    Quote Originally Posted by midas View Post
    Hi, question to windv and shiremux - how did you fit that 222 shock there? Is it slightly compressed all the time?

    Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
    it's not compressed. there are 2-3mm to the seat tube.

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-11-23-1987.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-11-23-1991.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-11-23-1992.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-11-23-1993.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-11-23-1994.jpg
    Ѣ

  42. #2942
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    Sorry if this has been covered, have searched for a clear answer but can't seem to find it.

    I have a '14 Rune. Wanting to switch to a 2x10 drivetrain.
    Which front derailleur suits the Rune?

  43. #2943
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrFishyNooooo View Post
    Sorry if this has been covered, have searched for a clear answer but can't seem to find it.

    I have a '14 Rune. Wanting to switch to a 2x10 drivetrain.
    Which front derailleur suits the Rune?
    Take a look on the FAQ´s from the Banshee-Homepage.

    Q: What front derailleur do you recommend?
    A: All the KS link all mountain bikes can accommodate 2×10 (Shimano and SRAM) and 3×10 (SRAM only) setups. Using only a low direct front derailleur with either a SRAM S3 or a Shimano 2012 and later E2 type with the BB shell plate removed will work. There are two cable stop positions… the middle is for SRAM and the driveside position is for Shimano.

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    Get a 50-10 cassete and never mind the 2x10 set up. The OneUp upgrade of the Shimano 11 speed cassete works realy well and is far cheaper than SRAM Eagle set up. Believe me, the 500% range is more than enough and will keep your handlebars clean.

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    Eventho i had to abandon my banshee project and pick cheaper frame strictly coz financial problems i gotta admit one thing, Banshee cusstomer support is damn great, never met a company that replied to all of my questions with so much effort and details.
    Once i get on a straight with $ ill surely get my hands on a new Rune '17

  46. #2946
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    Anyone running his/her Rune with a 180mm fork, apart from windv who's rocking his with a 222mm shock as well? I mean riding a 180mm fork, but with the regular shock for 160mm at the back. How would it change the geo? I guess the front end would be 1- 1.5deg slacker, but what about the BB height? The Rune's official geo is measured with a 549 A2C fork, i'm looking into the Lyrik that has a 571mm A2C...

  47. #2947
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    Every 10mm you add to the fork makes the bike .5 degrees slacker and raises the bb 5mm (roughly)

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    Quote Originally Posted by hitar_potar View Post
    Anyone running his/her Rune with a 180mm fork, apart from windv who's rocking his with a 222mm shock as well? I mean riding a 180mm fork, but with the regular shock for 160mm at the back. How would it change the geo? I guess the front end would be 1- 1.5deg slacker, but what about the BB height? The Rune's official geo is measured with a 549 A2C fork, i'm looking into the Lyrik that has a 571mm A2C...

    Like this - Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_20161205_182130.jpg ?

    I can give you a ride at Lokorsko if you wish

    At the moment, the BB sits at 545mm, and it is with the long chain-stays on the middle position. It is still work in progress, though.

    I just got a new RockShox Lyrik 180mm 27.5 fork. I am still waiting for my new wheels and will post an image with the final build (it is still with the 26" wheels at the moment).

    The Vorsprung Corset air sleeve for the Float X really transformed the shock. While previously, I was always running very little pressure and bottoming it out quite often, in order to get proper small bump compliance, now I run pretty high pressures with a lot of mid-stroke support and the beginning of the stroke is even better than before!

    Quite a lot of builds coming from Bulgaria lately. Let's see how our new distributor serves us in the future.

  49. #2949
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    I'd agree with the 0.5 degrees of head angle approximately, but the bb height will not increase by as much as 5mm, more like 2.5mm as it's closer to back wheel than the front wheel and the fork is at an angle.
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    Ohhh, which are the other builds in Bulgaria? And who is the new dealer of banshees for Bg? Also, am looking at the 2016 rune and am wondering which one is better for a 180mm fork - the rune or the darkside. Type of planned riding: enduro as well as bike-park riding.

  51. #2951
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitar_potar View Post
    Ohhh, which are the other builds in Bulgaria? And who is the new dealer of banshees for Bg? Also, am looking at the 2016 rune and am wondering which one is better for a 180mm fork - the rune or the darkside. Type of planned riding: enduro as well as bike-park riding.
    I'd stick to the rune. I think climbing on a darkside is possible depending on how you build it but it would do disservice to the frames full potential

    Just my opinion though, I see a lot of builds on the darkside where people put a wide range cassette, single crown fork with a climb switch air shock on so what do I know :-P

    The rune is one capable bike though.


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  52. #2952
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    I kinda wonder if a180mm fork would be too much for the rune, if it would bring some disbalance to the complete bike...

  53. #2953
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitar_potar View Post
    I kinda wonder if a180mm fork would be too much for the rune, if it would bring some disbalance to the complete bike...
    This is the thing with the Rune... When I rode one I had time with 26 wheels on a 180 MM Zocchi 66 and a 160 lyrik. If I was staying local and pedalling - the lyrik did the trick. When it was time to go to Angelfire - the 66 was thrown on and i put the bike in the slack setting - total plow machine with about 35% sag in the rear.

    Would I live with a Rune @ 180? Probably not - but if you have a park build its a great match. Thinking about getting a cheap set of 26x150 wheels for my wife's Rune when we go to visit parks - i still have my 66 and she feels the Pike has too much feedback in brake bumps.

  54. #2954
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    I'm thinking of throwing everything from my IH Sunday (saint 820 drivetrain, havoc ust wheels, havoc/Thomson cockpit) on a banshee frame. If it's a Rune, gotta get a new crankset 68/73mm and an enduro fork (I want a 180mm but am wondering if it's too much). If it's a Darkside, I can keep my present saint 83mm crank and a 180mm fork would be fine.

  55. #2955
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    What hub spacing do you have? Although the darkside has a 142 option, I think the chainline is better with 150.


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  56. #2956
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    Fwiw Keith said before the Rune was not built for a 180 fork and it would void the warranty. He suggested building a Darkside instead.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  57. #2957
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    Fwiw Keith said before the Rune was not built for a 180 fork and it would void the warranty. He suggested building a Darkside instead.
    From the Rune FAQ:
    "Q: What fork travel do you recommend?
    A: The optimal fork travel for the rune is 160mm, however the frame is covered to run up to 180mm single crown forks."

  58. #2958
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    Hey I asked it on here in this thread. I have no reason to make it up.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  59. #2959
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    I'd agree with the 0.5 degrees of head angle approximately, but the bb height will not increase by as much as 5mm, more like 2.5mm as it's closer to back wheel than the front wheel and the fork is at an angle.
    Good to know, im running a 170 fork and considered dropping it to 160 to lower my bb.

  60. #2960
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junersun View Post
    What hub spacing do you have? Although the darkside has a 142 option, I think the chainline is better with 150.
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    Well, the Sunday is a 83mm bb, 12x150mm hub frame. A Darkside would allow me to keep both rear wheel and crank, a Rune would allow me to keep only the wheel. Whichever I choose, I will keep the 12x150 rear, that's for sure! Reason for my wondering is that i want to go enduro, but am more keen on the downs than the ups (haha, no shit? ) and my priority is going down.

  61. #2961
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    I had a go with diferent rear sags and tried 2 of the geometry options. The bike is a beast with the slack mode, but after a couple of rides i reverted back to neutral, and i definitly love it this way. I get less pedal strikes, it climbs better and on the way down, it s poppy, super fun and more nimble, makes me smile more, so it s a no brainer. I ll save the slack settings for bike park.

    Anyway, still searching for the ideal sag. I ve seen the chart at the banshee bikes blog, where 30% sag is equivalent to 17,5mm of stroke compression, doesnt explain but i assume this is for the cane creek. On my rear shock, a monarch debonair plus the 30% mark measures 19mm.
    I know this isnt rocket science but i am curious for such a big diference in milimeters. I am using the shock mark, with good feeling, nice small bump, only bottoms out at bigger drops / jumps and i switch to "firm" to climb steep fire roads.
    Almost perfect bike, just starting to save money to get 27.5 wheels.

  62. #2962
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    The shock sag marks do not represent the suspension sag (% of travel of bike used) due to the fact that the suspension is not perfectly linear, but progressive, so to compress the suspension 10mm at start of travel uses less shock stroke than compressing 10mm of suspension at end of travel.

    19mm of shock compression = around 33% suspension sag
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  63. #2963
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    Sorry, english is not my born language.
    So, let s say i would want 25% sag. The 63mm divided by 4 doesnt apply?
    Damm, now i just want to set it again and go for a ride :-)

  64. #2964
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    Shock sag does not = suspension sag. Suspension sag is what is important, and why I feel that shock manufacturers should stop printing sag marks on the shocks that can be misleading due to the fact that shock compression and suspension compression do not have a linear relationship unless the leverage ratio is constant throughout travel (perfectly linear)

    On a rune if you want 25% sag you want 14.5mm of shock compression.


    It's all to do with leverage ratio. a progressive linkage like we use, starts with a high leverage ratio, and ends lower.

    If you have a high leverage ratio of say 3:1, then when the shock compresses by 1mm, the suspension linkage uses 3mm of travel.

    If you have a low leverage ratio of say 2:1, then when the shock compresses by 1mm, the suspension linkage uses only 2mm of travel.

    Therefore the sag marks on the shock only are truely accurate if the leverage ratio is constant throughout whole range of travel, which is very rare and not very desirable.
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  65. #2965
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    So if I wanted 28% would that be 16.24mm?

  66. #2966
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Shock sag does not = suspension sag. Suspension sag is what is important, and why I feel that shock manufacturers should stop printing sag marks on the shocks that can be misleading due to the fact that shock compression and suspension compression do not have a linear relationship unless the leverage ratio is constant throughout travel (perfectly linear)

    On a rune if you want 25% sag you want 14.5mm of shock compression.


    It's all to do with leverage ratio. a progressive linkage like we use, starts with a high leverage ratio, and ends lower.

    If you have a high leverage ratio of say 3:1, then when the shock compresses by 1mm, the suspension linkage uses 3mm of travel.

    If you have a low leverage ratio of say 2:1, then when the shock compresses by 1mm, the suspension linkage uses only 2mm of travel.

    Therefore the sag marks on the shock only are truely accurate if the leverage ratio is constant throughout whole range of travel, which is very rare and not very desirable.
    Thank you, i wasnt understanding why it wasnt equal. To be completely linear we would be talking about an old single pivot or sometinhg?!!
    But i cant stop thinking that it s a lot harder to ride bumpy trails with your recomendation, because my shock has no regulations what so ever, it has the medium original compression tune and the possibility of rubber rings. But if it s already so hard there s no point to put them.
    Wish i had a cane creek to try it.
    Anyway, even if i am using 30 or 33 sag percentage i am having a great time riding the bike, on the very first ride i kinda felt it was my bike for years, no worries to adapt, just go. Amazing frame!!!

  67. #2967
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    Ride the shock in open position instead of the trail or pedal setting. It's got less compression damping in open.


    IMHO the CCDBA is the way to go on a Rune.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  68. #2968
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    Here at Europe a bos kirk is also a great option, pricey though...

  69. #2969
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    These are only our recommended sags, everyone is different and should set the shocks up the way that work best for them and the trails they ride.

    Regarding the volume spacers... you will actually make the initial travel feel more plush by adding volume spacers and running same sag as less air pressure will be required to hit same sag point and you will have more bottom out resistance.
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  70. #2970
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    Yeah, only a starting base. As i said i m happy with the bike, i was just curious about those diferent measures for sag.
    Thx again, i have some red spacers and i ll try it someday, the bottom out is not an issue, i only use all the travel on the bigger stuff, if there s anything to improve it would be some plushness for small bumps.

    Next weekend i ll tell my buddies, that the guy that designed my bike actually gave me some set up tips
    Downside is i ll have to pay the beers...

  71. #2971
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    photos for people with strong hearts...


    ...the best adjustable drop out system

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-untitled-1.jpg

    rune lines

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-p5pb14255656.jpg

    simple black paint

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-12-18-2333.jpg

    earth trying to get in and dance with the grease

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2016-12-18-2300.jpg
    Ѣ

  72. #2972
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    Hi guys
    have tried the float ctd from my old nomad, it was a short ride but i ve done the same trails i did lately with the debonair. While pedalling and climbing the float is better, it has a better small bump smoothness and on climb mode the shock stays high, sag remains at 17mm imstead of 20mm of the debonair, the bike feels less slack, after a couple of hours it feels more effective.

    Going down, the ctd has less mid stroke support specially on fast bumpy sections, and it bottoms easier on bigger drops, it doesnt have the same control feeling of the debonair on landings.
    So, this small ctd performed better that i hoped and maybe it would be even better with a volume spacer.
    The small bump of the ctd and the downhill control of the debonair in the same package, would be the perfect shock.
    Next weekend i m going to try a ccdb air xv from a friend, he s warning me to get my wallet "ready".

  73. #2973
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    Quote Originally Posted by drapeado View Post
    Hi guys
    have tried the float ctd from my old nomad, it was a short ride but i ve done the same trails i did lately with the debonair. While pedalling and climbing the float is better, it has a better small bump smoothness and on climb mode the shock stays high, sag remains at 17mm imstead of 20mm of the debonair, the bike feels less slack, after a couple of hours it feels more effective.

    Going down, the ctd has less mid stroke support specially on fast bumpy sections, and it bottoms easier on bigger drops, it doesnt have the same control feeling of the debonair on landings.
    So, this small ctd performed better that i hoped and maybe it would be even better with a volume spacer.
    The small bump of the ctd and the downhill control of the debonair in the same package, would be the perfect shock.
    Next weekend i m going to try a ccdb air xv from a friend, he s warning me to get my wallet "ready".
    Best bang for buck upgrade for the CTD is a Vorsprung Corset. I would do that before shelling out on a CCDB.

  74. #2974
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    Question for anyone running a ccdb air

    A few of us with Darksides needed to downsize the air can from the Xv to the standard because we were blowing through the travel too fast due to the linear spring curve. Is this the situation with the rune or is the Xv the way to go?

  75. #2975
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    I am 200+ lbs and ride some chunky terrain. A high volume air can for me didn't work at all. Even with my x2, I've had to put the max volume spacers to prevent blowing through my travel...


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  76. #2976
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    225 here and using a standard can no spacers on my CCBD. My Rune mostly is a park bike now but I rode it the same way on the trails with good luck.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  77. #2977
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    Anyone experiment with 27.5 wheel front and 26 rear? Looking to drop the bb and shorten the chain stay...


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  78. #2978
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junersun View Post
    Anyone experiment with 27.5 wheel front and 26 rear? Looking to drop the bb and shorten the chain stay...


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    Yep,I did. Descended well but climbing was not too good. Tried for about a month.
    Btw, I might sell my 26" drop outs if anyone's interested.

  79. #2979
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    Quote Originally Posted by windv View Post
    Attachment 1104571Attachment 1104570

    That's my XL rune with 222x70mm shock, rocking something like 178mm of rear travel. BB is 344mm high. It feels great. I am running the vivid with ~35% sag. The rear triangle doesn't touch the seat tube when bottomed out. it's 14,9kg with the synthace W40 26" rims(150x12 rear axle and 20mm front) and fox van 36 180mm fork. guide brakes and 1x10 shimano drivetrain.

    will try fox float ctd 216 later on to see how both configurations compare...

    Removed the original paint and will be anodizing it soon in black, and than spraying some details with paint. Can't wait to see it ready
    How did you remove the original paint and anodize it in black? Am thinking of some new colors... my rune has been left idling for too long............ it is not getting ridden at all for the past year! Must get on with this project. Is it safe for frame integrity to have the paint removed chemically?


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  80. #2980
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottieM8 View Post
    Yep,I did. Descended well but climbing was not too good. Tried for about a month.
    Btw, I might sell my 26" drop outs if anyone's interested.
    Were you running it in the slack mode? I'm thinking in neutral setting so it doesn't take out too badly


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  81. #2981
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    I did both slacked and nuetral. Going down was a blast with the 26" rear. It just hung up a bit on square hits when climbing. Probably my handling skills need more improvement.

  82. #2982
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    That is very promising seeing how my climbs are mostly fireroads before singletrack downs!

    Did the slack move really rake your HA out though? Seems like a wheelsize drop of 1"+ it would significantly change the geo...
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  83. #2983
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    Anyone in here crash warranty a Rune recently? Would you mind PM'ing me the price please? I was given a price last week on my crash warranty frame and I might as well just buy a new frame.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  84. #2984
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    Anyone in here crash warranty a Rune recently? Would you mind PM'ing me the price please? I was given a price last week on my crash warranty frame and I might as well just buy a new frame.
    I had a crash replacement in 2013. Broke my V1 and the V2 ended up being 1300 or so from the distributor at the time. The MSRP was 2k - my frame was purchased second hand and I was stoked to get this offer.

  85. #2985
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    Killing a Rune should be a capital offense!
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

  86. #2986
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckiebruster View Post
    I had a crash replacement in 2013. Broke my V1 and the V2 ended up being 1300 or so from the distributor at the time. The MSRP was 2k - my frame was purchased second hand and I was stoked to get this offer.
    Yeah I was told 1500 for a crash replacement frame. I already started looking at other stuff. I can get a similar frame with shock and headset for less and still have my shock and CK headset to sell off.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  87. #2987
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junersun View Post
    That is very promising seeing how my climbs are mostly fireroads before singletrack downs!

    Did the slack move really rake your HA out though? Seems like a wheelsize drop of 1"+ it would significantly change the geo...
    The slack mode did rake out tbe front end. Use the neutral if you're going to try 26" rear. I sold off the Rune recently and got a Canfield Balance.

  88. #2988
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    Ask for the frame minus shock and you should be able to get to the $1300 area. Or find a used frame on PB - ton of runes for sale.

    What are the other options you are finding for the same amount?

  89. #2989
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckiebruster View Post
    Ask for the frame minus shock and you should be able to get to the $1300 area. Or find a used frame on PB - ton of runes for sale.

    What are the other options you are finding for the same amount?
    It's 1500 frame and dropouts, no shock. I wouldn't but a used version of a bike I've already cracked. There is actually a cracked Rune on Pinkbike for sale now. Hence why I wouldn't buy a 2016 Rune new, it's the same bike I have.

    It's the new year 2016 non carbon frames are easy to pick up for 1500ish.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  90. #2990
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    Where are the cracks happening?


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  91. #2991
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    It's 1500 frame and dropouts, no shock. I wouldn't but a used version of a bike I've already cracked. There is actually a cracked Rune on Pinkbike for sale now. Hence why I wouldn't buy a 2016 Rune new, it's the same bike I have.

    It's the new year 2016 non carbon frames are easy to pick up for 1500ish.
    Last inquiry - where did your bike crack and would you confirm that your crash replacement is in fact a 2016 and not a 2017? Quick search shows there is not much 2016 stock and what is available is $1500 with a cane creek db coil. I would kindly see if there is any wiggle room or an explanation of the crash replacement price compared to new frames in the marketplace.

  92. #2992
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckiebruster View Post
    Last inquiry - where did your bike crack and would you confirm that your crash replacement is in fact a 2016 and not a 2017? Quick search shows there is not much 2016 stock and what is available is $1500 with a cane creek db coil. I would kindly see if there is any wiggle room or an explanation of the crash replacement price compared to new frames in the marketplace.
    My frame cracked on the seat tube at the bottom of the upper link mount. It seems they are kind of known for cracking there and at the shock mounts on the downtube? I've seen a few cracked on the net always at the same spots which is how I found mine. I waited to get a 2017, I could have had a 2016 months ago but its the same frame as what I have. The 2017 has changed in that area. No bend in the seat tube to bottom bracket area, increased size in seat tube, new tubing construction.

    I was told "MSRP is 1900, crash replacement is 20% off so $1500 plus shipping" That was no shock, frame and drop outs only.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  93. #2993
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    for a 2017 I would bite on that deal - if it was a 2016 I would hold out and probably look elsewhere as you are. Good Luck - I went from a 2013 Rune to a 2016 Yeti SB6 only because my shit was stolen and I got a big check from insurance. I would have went Rune - but the availability for my size was limited and a local shop had the Yeti on sale as it was sitting on the sales floor for a while (owner indicated 4 people had it on layaway and all backed out).

    Dang I miss my Rune - that bike did it all. My wife is on a med 2016 Rune and she loves it. Not worried about her cracking it anytime soon - if she does we will probably bike down to a Spitty as her friends do XC and her Rune is a bit burly for that.

  94. #2994
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    I've only seen 2013 Runes, the first of the V2, crack at the shock mounts. I know a number of people riding them cracked with absolutely no issue at all. Wasn't aware of the seat tube issue though.

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    Thinking of replacing the fox 36 with the u turn coil lyrik. Anybody thinks it's a bad idea?? I am currently using the chris king inset 2 headset for the tapered fox 36, anybody knows what kind of adapter I need for running a. Straight steerer?


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  96. #2996
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    King makes a race for a straight steer tube into tapered headset. IIRC it's like $20 and you can order it off their site.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  97. #2997
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    King makes a race for a straight steer tube into tapered headset. IIRC it's like $20 and you can order it off their site.
    Many thanks!! Still can't decide if to go with the lyrik u turn coil!!


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  98. #2998
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    Quote Originally Posted by mik8yu View Post
    Many thanks!! Still can't decide if to go with the lyrik u turn coil!!


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    What do you not like about the fox 36?
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  99. #2999
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junersun View Post
    What do you not like about the fox 36?
    Don't get me wrong the fox 36 has more mid stroke support than the pike and maybe around the same than the bos deville. But am thinking for extended downhill runs maybe coil will be better and not pack up. Of course more likely than not my arms would give way before the fork does....

    The pike is more supple than fox 36 on some parts of the trial I am not sure if that is the so called small bump compliance that I am looking for or something else. I just thought of coil is the mother of modern suspension maybe giving it a go is not such a bad idea.


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  100. #3000
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    Quote Originally Posted by mik8yu View Post
    Don't get me wrong the fox 36 has more mid stroke support than the pike and maybe around the same than the bos deville. But am thinking for extended downhill runs maybe coil will be better and not pack up. Of course more likely than not my arms would give way before the fork does....

    The pike is more supple than fox 36 on some parts of the trial I am not sure if that is the so called small bump compliance that I am looking for or something else. I just thought of coil is the mother of modern suspension maybe giving it a go is not such a bad idea.


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    The 36 is the better fork, no questions asked.

    About the fork packing up on a long downhill, I have my doubts there. EWS riders all ride with air forks without any issues and quite a few guys on the world cup DH circuit are running with air forks.

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