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  1. #201
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    Too much text, not enough pix!

  2. #202
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    @NoStyle
    Perfectly explained!

    I am so Looking forward to building and riding my new Rune!

    Workscomponents ran a whole batch of 1.5deg zs44/zs56 headsets for 1 1/8" steerers when I asked for IT (tapered and 1.5deg is only possible with an upper external cup). Just drop them a line if you need one. They should have them on Stock.

    //edit
    my smartphone is Messing with case-sensitivity.... Sorry.

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    That looks correct is correct if running a tapered fork. Can I ask what you intend to use the angle set for and what for you will be running?
    Grazetourer's idea sounds tempting.
    Builttoride, Anything to consider from the bike design side that you would advise against the idea?

    I'll be building the bike on the burly side for gravity enduro racing with 650b, I'm used to 63.5ish on the DH, and 65 stock on the rune does not phase me for climbing/trail stuff.

    I'm tempted to run offset cups and leave the dropout in slackest setting for the DH style days...

    Last edited by ptd; 11-17-2012 at 04:19 PM.

  4. #204
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    @ptd
    I am pretty sure that slackening the HA will have no negative influence on the performance of the bike, especially if you're already used to very slack HAs. Go for it!

  5. #205
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    @ptd
    The question is, wether the RUNE is that kind of bike you should ride with that slack angle.
    From my experience, the wheelbase grows 1,25cm with every degree. So riding with another -2 degrees adds 2,5cm to the lenght, resulting in over 1205mm wheelbase. Much too long for my taste.
    I prefer 1700-1800mm. But yours will surely be planted on the downhills like an oil tanker and the turn radius of a truck when it comes to slower sections....

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    (...)and the turn radius of a truck when it comes to slower sections....
    The short chainstays should avoid that... (for sure the bike will be a little bit less agile, but depending on what you want to do with the bike it's no big deal).

  7. #207
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    as same with dh, slack angle would be not too much if one rides fast enough

    yaw mode

  8. #208
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    today I tried the rune on an alpine tour... @ grazertourer: veitsch, sooo herrlich...

    I am really starting to dig the new Rune V2... it is really really working great on tech stuff...I had it in the middle setting with 170mm, and this seems to be an ace setup... slack enough for what I am able to ride, and once the trail opens up, it is really in its element...
    bb-height seems to be spot on for the rooty, rocky trails...

    turning circle is not my problem... first, it is not unusually big, and second, we use driving techniques for switchbacks like pivoting around the front wheel, and for this, wheelsbase is not really important...

    guys dont talk about couple of mm in theory, just go out and ride

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    today I tried the rune on an alpine tour... @ grazertourer: veitsch, sooo herrlich...

    I am really starting to dig the new Rune V2... it is really really working great on tech stuff...I had it in the middle setting with 170mm, and this seems to be an ace setup... slack enough for what I am able to ride, and once the trail opens up, it is really in its element...
    bb-height seems to be spot on for the rooty, rocky trails...

    turning circle is not my problem... first, it is not unusually big, and second, we use driving techniques for switchbacks like pivoting around the front wheel, and for this, wheelsbase is not really important...

    guys dont talk about couple of mm in theory, just go out and ride


    Not long ago I tried a rival to the RUNE in L and XL. The L was a little short in REACH, the XL was spot on. BUT the XL had -1 angle set and therefore 1200mm wheelbase while the L had standard 1170mm. The difference was enormous, when riding slower, technical stuff. I did not like it very much. We are not talking about mm but 3 cm, and sometimes they count!!

  10. #210
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    @malcolmx
    Aaaaaaaah, I am feeling a little jealous right now. I caught a cold on my last ride, so I've been sitting in front of the TV the whole week end.


    Enjoy it, Max!

    //edit
    "pivoting around the front wheel"

    That reminds me of what someone said when I did the whole enchilada last year. "he just turned his bike on the front wheel! It looked so easy! I'venever seen such sick ridin' before!"
    Okay, enough...

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    ... From my experience, the wheelbase grows 1,25cm with every degree. So riding with another -2 degrees adds 2,5cm to the lenght ...
    That numbers are definitely wrong! Of course it depends on the A-2-C of the Fork. With Forks like 160er Lyriks and Foxes the Wheelbase gets longer around 3-4 mm per half Degree. It might be around 4-5 mm with 170er Forks. On my Wildcard with 160er Lyrik and -1,5 Deg Angleset the Wheelbase got lengthened to 12 mm. Just for the record ...

    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    ... guys dont talk about couple of mm in theory, just go out and ride
    Aiiiight

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    That numbers are definitely wrong! Of course it depends on the A-2-C of the Fork. With Forks like 160er Lyriks and Foxes the Wheelbase gets longer around 3-4 mm per half Degree. It might be around 4-5 mm with 170er Forks. On my Wildcard with 160er Lyrik and -1,5 Deg Angleset the Wheelbase got lengthened to 12 mm. Just for the record ...


    Aiiiight
    Maybe I am wrong, but I measured that fact with an CAD program. Donīt know how you get to your numbers....?? In my case there are already 3-4mm difference on top of the HT from the middle position to the angled position. IMHO that must be a lot more down the whole fork and the wheel....

    But thatīs just theory. If it is OK for you - enjoy the ride....just wanted to mention that.

  13. #213
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    AisaBike
    Banshee Dealer

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    ... Donīt know how you get to your numbers....?? ...
    Real-world-measurements my friend.
    Wildcard Size M with and Lyrik has 1135 mm Wheelbase, which is inline with the Banshee-Geo-Charts. With -1,5 Deg the Wheelbase is now 1148 (+13 mm), which is inline with the Info I got from Rick from Works-Components.
    You run an CC Angleset, which has, as far as I know, a centric lower Cup and an excentric upper Cup, so that might affect numbers a bit more, especially ETT and Wheelbase. The Works are excentric on both Cups which levels the Steerer through the Headtube ...

    @ Atala: This Built will end up as sexy as possible

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Real-world-measurements my friend.
    Wildcard Size M with and Lyrik has 1135 mm Wheelbase, which is inline with the Banshee-Geo-Charts. With -1,5 Deg the Wheelbase is now 1148 (+13 mm), which is inline with the Info I got from Rick from Works-Components.
    You run an CC Angleset, which has, as far as I know, a centric lower Cup and an excentric upper Cup, so that might affect numbers a bit more, especially ETT and Wheelbase. The Works are excentric on both Cups which levels the Steerer through the Headtube ...

    @ Atala: This Built will end up as sexy as possible
    on my V1 Rune, the wheelbase grew around 14mm with -1.5° angleset... that matches with what you are saying...and the steepest setup shortens the wheelbase anyways...

    @ GT: I was punished for the tour today: cought a cold, and could not go to work, for the first time ever...

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    on my V1 Rune, the wheelbase grew around 14mm with -1.5° angleset... that matches with what you are saying...and the steepest setup shortens the wheelbase anyways...
    Oh well, usually I donīt do Gramm-counting or haggle with 0,x Deg Headangles or CS-Millimeters, as almost everything will be newly defined and experienced with the new Ride.
    Except Seattube-Length: It has to be 43 cm as the longest

  17. #217
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    Rune v2

    Hola Adrian your bike looks amazing, I have my new rune v2 frame sitting behind desk at home for 3 weeks now, I had a hard fall a couple of weeks before I got it, and I have to wait till mid february to be able to ride again ... i cant wait!
    Anyway my frame looks amazing as it is now, but watching this one already built it looks way cooler!!!

  18. #218
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    Hi guys,

    Here is mine :


  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by CALULO View Post
    Hola Adrian your bike looks amazing, I have my new rune v2 frame sitting behind desk at home for 3 weeks now, I had a hard fall a couple of weeks before I got it, and I have to wait till mid february to be able to ride again ... i cant wait!
    Anyway my frame looks amazing as it is now, but watching this one already built it looks way cooler!!!
    Thanks for this words CALULO. Iīm very proud of my bike.. itīs a weapon

    Hope to see yours soon!

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Oh well, usually I donīt do Gramm-counting or haggle with 0,x Deg Headangles or CS-Millimeters, as almost everything will be newly defined and experienced with the new Ride.
    Except Seattube-Length: It has to be 43 cm as the longest
    I do not want to decrease your fun, but I also do not want to be prooved as a fool so fast.
    Take this formula for triangles. You were given two sides and three angles.
    The lenght of b is what has to be calculated.

    I am not the best in math, but when I am not wrong, than the result of -1 degree is exact 1,52 cm.

    b = a * sin(β) / sin(α)

    b=79*sin(24)/sin(66)
    b=79*0,406/0,9135
    b=35

    b=79*sin(23)/sin(67)
    b=79*0,390/0,920
    b=33,48


    Now go out and have fun riding your bikes....

  21. #221
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    Banshee Final Review

    Itīs time to prepare an extensive review about how the Rune v2 performs in the trails and in general in Enduro Routes. Point out that this review is based on my personal opinion (so probably a little bit subjective) and regarding the trails where I use to ride (Rocky trails with some steep sections... typically European Enduro ) may differ to the other opinions.

    Geometry

    The geometry of this bike shows how the market is developing a “new” standart in the word of Enduro bikes. Steep seat angles, really aggressive direction angles, long wheelbases, low bottom brackets and many more things like these are going to be a standard in not much time for sure. Itīs such a mini dh bikes with pedal efficiency and light weight…
    Talking about this bike, I will explain my feelings with the L size of the Rune highlighting the main points.

    Seat angle  From 73 to 74 degrees the pedal position itīs just perfect, the other enduro bikes right now are building up with 72-71,š degrees and itīs not enough. The good thing of having this kind of angle itīs when the things getting steep… really steep… this position inside the bike provides you a good situation to force the pedaling without losing traction in the front wheel. So in this part, the Rune itīs really well made.

    Direction angle  65 to 66 with 160mm fork and even more with 170mm fork. This feature simply kills the other bikes in this aspect. The way you can affront the hard sections and steeped areas is such a easy thing that you can barely believe it… ( In general… ) So 10 over 10 to banshee to be able to provide ours to adjust the geometry depending on our aim

    Wheelbase  Wheelbase is well know by most of us. A bigger wheelbase a more stable bike… but.. in this case, itīs the right measure… not to long but not to short… just exactly what this bikes requires . 1180mm in the Large size ensure a good trip when itīs time to go down and at the same time itīs not excessive at the time itīs the moment to get corners or rocky tricky sections… for example, liteville 901 have 1.200 wheelbase in Size Large, too much for an endure bike… this wheelbase itīs right .

    Flipchips  this option itīs great to change the bike performance depending the are are you going to ride… Bikepark  LOW // Routes  Neutral or High, depending of your fork length … but IMO HIGH position for 170mm forks in the front and NEUTRAL position for 160mm forks.

    Reach and Stack  For me itīs good enough… specially the stack… you can feel going inside the bike and go relax in the downhill’s due to the good reach and low stack.
    chainstay  itīs good, 426mm ensure you a easy bike to move around the narrow trails and the bike feels easy to manage and move in difficult situations

    Thereīre more variables but the critical I think are these actually.


    Climbing Up

    When itīs time to climb to the summit of a mountain, the seat angle and the pedal efficiency are at least, fundamental to achieve our objective. In this area, this bike simply rocks… itīs outstanding… regarding itīs a enduro bike, the pedal efficiency in this bike itīs the best, probably this is the main point of this bike and this feature explains all about the Rune. With an antisquat above 100% and good pedal kickback (13,5) I can ensure thatīs this Rune pedals like any other bike in this segment (only the Norco Range is similar).

    About the pedal kickback itīs mandatory to know thatīs itīs low taking in account the efficiency of this system. Always a high pedal efficiency systems brings a high pedal kickback.. (the ibis mojo hd pedals a little bit worse that this bike and the pedal kickb itīs 14-14,5 so itīs higher than the Rune)

    So the good geometry plus the pedal efficiency transforms this bike in a real climber.

    Antisquat
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    Pedal Kickback
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    The downhill part it will be longer so I will post it tomorrow

    Hope you liked it!

    pd: Some photos...
    pd: Iīve recently change the tires... Ibex onza dh 2.40 freeride version and High Roller 2 Exo protection.. Simply perfect!

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-dsc01552.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-dsc01510.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_7203.jpg

    And this is what will the bike look when I get the correct spring in Lbs for my weight... KILLER!!!!

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img-20121114-wa0000.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img-20121114-wa0002.jpg

  22. #222
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    @T.PEDRO

    Very nice bike. This is how mine would look like, except I would like to have a black fork on it.
    Not many black ones around? Maybe because of the white rallye-stripes??

  23. #223
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    @ kalkhoffpink
    Haha, Iīm for sure no one to proove you as a fool ...
    Ok, the Wildcard has a Wheelbase of 1164 mm with 545 A2C-Fork in Size L. Now take a proper Measurement with your -1 Deg CC-Angleset - do you have a WB of 1176,5 mm?
    If so than the olī spicy Trail-Shreddy is a fool ...

    @ AdrianoMTB
    Nice writeup
    And yes, High Roller 2 Exo Protection is a great Tire, same as the Onza Ibex, which I have in 2.35 FR.

  24. #224
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    Ok after looking for the last 4 days I am ready to pull my F@#King hair out....can someone please actually just post up a link for a site that has the correct Cane Creak Head set in stock. I see tons with the race crown being 30 but none that have the race crown at 40.

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Ok after looking for the last 4 days I am ready to pull my F@#King hair out....can someone please actually just post up a link for a site that has the correct Cane Creak Head set in stock. I see tons with the race crown being 30 but none that have the race crown at 40.
    Buy Bike Zero Stack - Tops - Bottoms and more at Bike Shop Liquidators

    You need the bottom (3rd from left in top row), and any of the ZS44 tops listed below it.

  26. #226
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    Ok maybe this was my problem, I was looking for a complete headset but I need to buy each part seperately, I did not know this.

    Thank you.

  27. #227
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    AdrianoMTB:

    Good review. I am going to buy a Rune, but I am not sure, if I should choose L or XL. What is your height and inseam?

    Thanks

  28. #228
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    @adrianomtb
    Great review! You are writing that the Rune is a great climber even though you are using a 170mm. Does that mean in your opinion you don't have to use a fork you can travel? I'm asking cause i wanted to install a 180mm fox talas but after your review i think about saving lots of pennies if i go for the lyric too...what do you think?

  29. #229
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    Hi Pedro,

    I ordered the same frame and have the same fork.
    Could you say me how the vipīr shock is in comparison to the fox float ctd?
    And how much is the weight of your nice bike?

    Cheers!

  30. #230
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    I always thought climbing on an enduro without TA fork is a cliché, but with the V2 rune, it really works great!

    I would go for a fixed 170mm Fork anytime (mine is an old lyrik u-turn, but I stopped using the travel-down function on the V2...)
    it climbs as well with full travel fork, as the V1 Rune with fork traveled down.

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    I always thought climbing on an enduro without TA fork is a cliché, but with the V2 rune, it really works great!

    I would go for a fixed 170mm Fork anytime (mine is an old lyrik u-turn, but I stopped using the travel-down function on the V2...)
    it climbs as well with full travel fork, as the V1 Rune with fork traveled down.

    Good to know Malcom! My 170mm Deville also doesnīt have a travel-down function.
    Now I can be more relaxed

  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdrianoMTB View Post
    Banshee Final Review
    Direction angle  65 to 66 with 160mm fork and even more with 170mm fork.
    Did you mean 66 to 65deg and even LESS with 170mm fork ?
    Last edited by razorjack; 11-20-2012 at 03:08 AM.

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    @ kalkhoffpink
    Haha, Iīm for sure no one to proove you as a fool ...
    Ok, the Wildcard has a Wheelbase of 1164 mm with 545 A2C-Fork in Size L. Now take a proper Measurement with your -1 Deg CC-Angleset - do you have a WB of 1176,5 mm?
    If so than the olī spicy Trail-Shreddy is a fool ...

    @ AdrianoMTB
    Nice writeup
    And yes, High Roller 2 Exo Protection is a great Tire, same as the Onza Ibex, which I have in 2.35 FR.

    Well I guess "proper" measurement is the main problem here...
    The formula is clear - where are your doubts?? Sounds too much? However, I will now grab my rig and go outside for a short spontaneous ride around the lake. And no matter what size the wheelbase is, I will have fun with my wildcard at this sunny 43rd Birthday...

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    @ AdrianoMTB
    Nice writeup
    And yes, High Roller 2 Exo Protection is a great Tire, same as the Onza Ibex, which I have in 2.35 FR.
    Thanks for these words NoStyle... Hope to see at the Mega next 2013?

    Quote Originally Posted by ruckse View Post
    AdrianoMTB:

    Good review. I am going to buy a Rune, but I am not sure, if I should choose L or XL. What is your height and inseam?

    Thanks
    My height and inseam itīs 1,86 mts tall and 89cm inseam. In my case with the 40mm stem and a reverb... I feel perfectly positioned into the bike.



    Quote Originally Posted by trailinger View Post
    @adrianomtb
    Great review! You are writing that the Rune is a great climber even though you are using a 170mm. Does that mean in your opinion you don't have to use a fork you can travel? I'm asking cause i wanted to install a 180mm fox talas but after your review i think about saving lots of pennies if i go for the lyric too...what do you think?
    IMO with this bike itīs not necesary to use forks with travel change BUT... for example, using a fox 180mm needs change the flipchips of the rear, in my case with 170mm fork and 65š degrees I think itīs too slack in fact... so with 180mm itīs very important to change the flipchips to the HIGH position.

    So from my perspective avoid the the talas purchase... and go to a fox van 180mm if you want a brutal enduro bike or to my lyrik... itīs really good and stiff enough... Iīm running 170mm coil fork!

    Quote Originally Posted by razorjack View Post
    Did you mean 66 to 65deg and even LESS with 170mm fork ?
    Exactly... you know what I meant.... itīs even LESS!

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdrianoMTB View Post
    Thanks for these words NoStyle... Hope to see at the Mega next 2013?
    Woah yes, that would be great!
    Maybe we all should organize a Banshee-Rider-Family-Meeting for one of those Races next Year. And hopefully Keith, Jay, Jon and all the other good Guys at Banshee would have the possibility to join us, too. That would be awesome - imagine dozens of Rune-, Spitfire- or Prime-Riders banging down the Trails and sharing the good Times together

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Woah yes, that would be great!
    Maybe we all should organize a Banshee-Rider-Family-Meeting for one of those Races next Year. And hopefully Keith, Jay, Jon and all the other good Guys at Banshee would have the possibility to join us, too. That would be awesome - imagine dozens of Rune-, Spitfire- or Prime-Riders banging down the Trails and sharing the good Times together
    For me, next year will probably be Bikeattack, Caidom and the Trailmaster... I think it is a great idea

  37. #237
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    I think we have to prepare 2 different meetings... the Canadian/American meeting and the European meeting...

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    Thanks AdrianoMTB. On your pictures, I think the saddle is in the uphill position. It looks quite high, so mine would be higher for some cm. I think for me the XL fits more, but I will see, maybe I have the possibillity to test one Rune. Anybody here near Innsbruck?

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by ruckse View Post
    Thanks AdrianoMTB. On your pictures, I think the saddle is in the uphill position. It looks quite high, so mine would be higher for some cm. I think for me the XL fits more, but I will see, maybe I have the possibillity to test one Rune. Anybody here near Innsbruck?
    In my case, with 89cm inseam I think itīs normal get the seatpost too high. Iīve too much inseam for my 1,86cm so regarding the 47cm of top tube itīs normal.. if youīre taller and with more inseam... no doubts.. get an XL

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    Yes I am taller. 190cm and about 92cm inseam. So you also think XL?

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by ruckse View Post
    Yes I am taller. 190cm and about 92cm inseam. So you also think XL?
    For sure

  42. #242
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    äh, no?
    I have exactly this size, and the Large fits perfectly with 40-50mm stem...

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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    äh, no?
    I have exactly this size, and the Large fits perfectly with 40-50mm stem...
    And I am 180cm and will go for Large.... I love long top tubes....

  44. #244
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    yeah, of course personal taste will be important as well... but @ 190 with 93cm inseam, I have absolutely no doubts that the Large is right for me...

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    pedro, regarding BOS stuffs, do you use needle bearing kit? Im gonna get only one for BOS kit.

    Do you have any idea what kind of needle bearing I do need to get for other end of the shock? in the case Im receiving 170mm deville and vipR

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by zupaphil View Post
    Hi Pedro,

    I ordered the same frame and have the same fork.
    Could you say me how the vipīr shock is in comparison to the fox float ctd?
    And how much is the weight of your nice bike?

    Cheers!
    Hello zupaphil,
    I haven't tested the bike with the float ctd, but with the vip'r the bike pedal very well. When you go down the bike is stable and have a good grip. The shock is not very sensitive, but it is new.

    The bike weighs 15kg200, I'd like to lose 400 to 500g by changing some parts.

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomasis View Post
    pedro, regarding BOS stuffs, do you use needle bearing kit? Im gonna get only one for BOS kit.

    Do you have any idea what kind of needle bearing I do need to get for other end of the shock? in the case Im receiving 170mm deville and vipR
    I don't have needle bearing on my shock. It's maybe a good idea if you want a very sensitive shock. If you buy your suspensions to BOS you only have to says it's for a Rune v2 and they will give you the good bearing sizes (40x8mm shaft end and 25,4x8mm reservoir end)

  48. #248
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    Hey all, first post here!

    I am currently putting together a kit of parts for a Rune V2 which I will hopefully have in the not too distance future!

    I have worked out almost everything (mainly thanks to this thread) but just want to be certain on the front mech.

    Is it bottom pull? I have found that its spec 3 direct mount, but just wasnt 100% on top or bottom pull?

    (had a link but cant post it!)

    Enjoyed reading this thread. More pics would be good!

    Thanks
    Pete

  49. #249
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    yes, it is... the cable comes from underneath the BB...

  50. #250
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  51. #251
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    Brilliant thanks guys, I appreciate the help.

    Rgds
    Pete.

  52. #252
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    Worst build thread ever! Less text more pics!

  53. #253
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    Haha PUNKY, show us yours, as you must have received your Frame already, isnīt it? Would give some great entertainment here while in the meantime all others have to wait for their Frames to arrive ...

  54. #254
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    Another question on headsets guys. For the upper assembly I see both short and tall listed. Should I be ordering one over the other?

  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Another question on headsets guys. For the upper assembly I see both short and tall listed. Should I be ordering one over the other?
    I cant answer that but I have another headset question.

    I am going to use my 1.5 fork from the v1 and found a complete headset on CRC that I can use for the top (44mm external) but can not find a 56mm bottom.
    Found one that is 55.9mm, would that be the same?
    I saw Zaks post with the link for the bottom but dont really want to pay $37 shipping to Canada and am ordering from CRC anyway. Is there something I can use as a bottom from CRC?

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by burke ryder View Post
    I cant answer that but I have another headset question.

    I am going to use my 1.5 fork from the v1 and found a complete headset on CRC that I can use for the top (44mm external) but can not find a 56mm bottom.
    Found one that is 55.9mm, would that be the same?
    I saw Zaks post with the link for the bottom but dont really want to pay $37 shipping to Canada and am ordering from CRC anyway. Is there something I can use as a bottom from CRC?


    Can you use a 1.5 fork? I did not think so as it is a tapeered head tube. The headsets are failry cheap at Universalcycles.com Plus you can use these coupons. Oh and Dunbar cycles in Vancouer will price match the headset if your here on the west coast.

    "stormyweather10": Take 10% off orders over $100
    "stormyweather15": Take 15% off orders over $300

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Can you use a 1.5 fork? I did not think so as it is a tapeered head tube. The headsets are failry cheap at Universalcycles.com Plus you can use these coupons. Oh and Dunbar cycles in Vancouer will price match the headset if your here on the west coast.

    "stormyweather10": Take 10% off orders over $100
    "stormyweather15": Take 15% off orders over $300
    To be honest there are so many different standards now my head just spins. Thats probably why I cant find a bottom at CRC...Anyone?

    Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but the head tube is 44mm on top so a 44mm headset external bearing will fit my 1.5 like the Nukeproof Warhead 44EEOS

    Yea, I.m in Van. Thanks for the links.

  58. #258
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    Pretty sure this Hope bottom separate is what you need.

    Your Basket

    I don't see any Hope top assy's that do what you want so you need to buy the complete Nukeproof headset you listed to get the correct upper cup/bearing assy. to fit a 1.5 steerer and into the 44mm headtube. It's an odd combo and the 2 companies that sell separate tops and bottoms (Cane Creek and Hope) don't seem to offer that top you want. At least without contacting them to find out.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  59. #259
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    Headsets

    @Mishtar: I'd suggest short, because if gives you a wider range of adjustment using spacers. If you get a tall, the minimum stem height is higher.

    @burke ryder: The Nukeproof Warhead 44EEOS is right for a 1.5" steerer in 44mm head tube upper. The lower cup won't work.

    From CRC, I'm ordering the Hope pick'n'mix for a tapered steerer, tapered headtube:
    top cup: Hope Pick n Mix Headsets - Top Cup | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com 1.1/8" integral 43.95mm
    bottop cup: Hope Pick n Mix Headsets - Bottom Cup | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com 1.5" integral 55.9mm


    @skidad: I think that haedset is for a "traditional" inner bore of 49.57mm, rather than "tapered 56mm", someone correct me if I'm wrong!
    Last edited by ptd; 11-22-2012 at 03:26 AM.

  60. #260
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    Double crank chainring tabs ok with top guide?

    @AdrianoMTB: Is that an XT double crankset? Is there adequate clearance between the chainring tabs and the upper chain guide?
    I haven't seen a double in person, it looks like the double chainring tab is a little more pronounced than the triple, I thought it might have more chance of fouling the upper guide if the fit was 'close'?
    Last edited by ptd; 11-22-2012 at 03:26 AM.

  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by burke ryder View Post
    To be honest there are so many different standards now my head just spins. Thats probably why I cant find a bottom at CRC...Anyone?

    Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but the head tube is 44mm on top so a 44mm headset external bearing will fit my 1.5 like the Nukeproof Warhead 44EEOS

    Yea, I.m in Van. Thanks for the links.
    $38
    Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek 40 ZS56 1.5" Lower Assembly

    $29
    Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek 40-Series ZS44 Upper Assembly

    So $67 for the Cane creak 40 series. Dunbar said they would price match it so you would save shippng and handling. Or you could get the 110 series for $132

    The hope ones are $82 so the 40 series would be cheaper if bought In Van at Dunbar.

  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    @AdrianoMTB: Is that an XT double crankset? Is there adequate clearance between the chainring tabs and the upper chain guide?
    I haven't seen a double in person, it looks like the double chainring tab is a little more pronounced than the triple, I thought it might have more chance of fouling the upper guide if the fit was 'close'?
    Hi Ptd!

    In fact, I had to put little spacers between the ring and the cranks to align the chain within the chainguide.

  63. #263
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    Hi Guys! It would bei so nice if anyone could give me a hint about the right lenght of the brake hoses front and rear? Is it really a minimum of 170mm? What would you recommend in the front using a 180mm fork and 760mm bar?

  64. #264
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    760mm bars? That is in DH range, if there are any tree's on your local trails you may be nailing them with your bars. I personally am using a 711mm bar and think it is more then big enough, my DH bar is only 730mm and I am 6ft and it feels perfect.

  65. #265
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    I use chromag 780 on both my spitfire and rune and they are go down so solid! It felt just right when i change from 730 to 780 ...

  66. #266
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    In my opinion 740er to 760er Bars are pretty average today (I have a Nukeproof Warhead 765), while DHers go wider, up to 800er Bars.

  67. #267
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    Cant wait to build mine up. My frame shipped from Trident today! I have been waiting since the end of July. Ugh. Another week?

    Cant wait to throw a leg over this thing.

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    760mm bars? That is in DH range, if there are any tree's on your local trails you may be nailing them with your bars. I personally am using a 711mm bar and think it is more then big enough, my DH bar is only 730mm and I am 6ft and it feels perfect.
    I run 780 bars and I live in Oregon. No shortage of trees here. I have maybe scraped a tree twice. As with anything it is all about trade offs. Better control with the wide bars? I can live with a scuff here and there. Same with low BB's. Trading better handling for some scuffed up pedals. Good trade IMOP.

  69. #269
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    News

    I had to put the flipchips in HIGH position due to the excesive slack angle of the direction with the lyrik 170mm... itīs brutal in very steep areas but sometimes you must go fast to no loose speed in flat rocky sections...

    So right now.. Iīm running 74š seat degrees and 65,5% direction degrees...

  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    I run 780 bars and I live in Oregon. No shortage of trees here. I have maybe scraped a tree twice. As with anything it is all about trade offs. Better control with the wide bars? I can live with a scuff here and there. Same with low BB's. Trading better handling for some scuffed up pedals. Good trade IMOP.
    No shortage of trees near munich either. On my current bike i use a 740mm which is great but i want to try a syntace bar with 780mm on the rune; i'm 6'3" and have long arms...if the 780mm is to wide...cut

  71. #271
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    Less talk. More pics!

  72. #272
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    Hmmmm ... more patience ... ???
    Seems that everyone is waiting for their Frames. Iīm sure tons of Pics will follow in a few weeks.

  73. #273
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    Anyone know what kind of shimano front derailleur is required? I received info that it was a direct mount E/type but when I called Shimano they said it had to either be a direct mount "or" an etype and it could not be both. I am a little confused on what to buy.

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Anyone know what kind of shimano front derailleur is required? I received info that it was a direct mount E/type but when I called Shimano they said it had to either be a direct mount "or" an etype and it could not be both. I am a little confused on what to buy.
    E-type is what the Rune V2 uses. Shimano direct mount attaches to a frame mount above the crankset.

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy View Post
    E-type is what the Rune V2 uses. Shimano direct mount attaches to a frame mount above the crankset.
    I am still a little confused because this was the exact wording that I received from Banshee when I wrote the site.

    "The Rune V2 takes a low bottom pull direct mount front derailleur. If you're ordering a Sram front derailleur you'll need an S3, Shimano call theres an E-tipe.
    "

    It quotes that it is low bottom pull direct mount but then later says E-type. Do you have your bike to actually look at it and confim it is E-type? I do not want to be ordering the wrong derailluer and as no shops around here have seen one yet they can not confirm what type it is either.

  76. #276
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    The Shimano front derailleur we recommend is the FDM-985-E2
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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    Banshee Blog

  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    The Shimano front derailleur we recommend is the FDM-985-E2
    Problem with that is it will only work with a 10 speed. I am using a 9 speed RD. According to Shimano Canada that will not be compatible.

  78. #278
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    I figured it out, the Shimano XT M770 Etype will work it seems.

  79. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Problem with that is it will only work with a 10 speed. I am using a 9 speed RD. According to Shimano Canada that will not be compatible.
    It is going to work just fine. Shimano just covers their behind.

    Anyhow - i am almost sure that if there are no known clearance issues ( Keith? ) then any e-type front mech with removed base plate will work just fine. Just like it is so with Spesh DMD mount.

  80. #280
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    The M770 will have clearance issues, we only recommend the M985E and M985E2 currently. when we eventually get samples from shimano we will be testing other options.

    All SRAM S3 offering work with good clearance.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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  81. #281
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    These two Front-Derailleurs should work, as the E-Type (without Plate) fits the S3-Standard:

    Shimano XTR FD M985-E2
    Shimano XT FD M785-E2

    Greetings
    NoStyle

  82. #282
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    Gonna have to start a seperate photo thread. thats alot of reading to only see a handlefull of builds. Love the new design but not ready to build one yet. Just want to drool till I am ready.
    I just want to ride.

  83. #283
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    Itīs complex to create a photo build threat only with 1 or 2 bikes around... This post need time... probably in a few weeks... the vision should change a little bit

  84. #284
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    @ juan pablo
    As Adriano has mentioned: This Thread needs Time and Patience at the moment. Several Photo-Threads for one Type of Bike is not really usefull, I think. The first Batches are on their way to the Customers, so this one will get a lot more Traffic and Posts in a short Time.

  85. #285
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    i can post photos of my frame ... i havent build my bike since i cant ride for 2 more months

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    These two Front-Derailleurs should work, as the E-Type (without Plate) fits the S3-Standard:

    Shimano XTR FD M985-E2
    Shimano XT FD M785-E2

    Greetings
    NoStyle
    The problem is the only one that I have found that is a 3x9 that works is the M770 which Kieth just said will have clearance issues. All of the ones everyone else is posting are 2x10 and I do not want to sell the new cranks, chain rings and rear casette I just bought to try to switch over to a 2x10 system.

    Anyone able to post a SRAM S3 3x9 system that would work?

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by uzurpator View Post
    It is going to work just fine. Shimano just covers their behind.

    Anyhow - i am almost sure that if there are no known clearance issues ( Keith? ) then any e-type front mech with removed base plate will work just fine. Just like it is so with Spesh DMD mount.
    So do you think if I bought a SRAM S3 3x10 it would work with my 22/32/bash guard set up with a 9 speed chain and rear derailleur?
    Last edited by Mishtar; 11-23-2012 at 11:02 PM.

  88. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    @ juan pablo
    As Adriano has mentioned: This Thread needs Time and Patience at the moment. Several Photo-Threads for one Type of Bike is not really usefull, I think. The first Batches are on their way to the Customers, so this one will get a lot more Traffic and Posts in a short Time.
    UPS tracking shows that my frame will be on my doorstep on Tues. Plan on building it up over next weekend. Stoked.

  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    I am still a little confused because this was the exact wording that I received from Banshee when I wrote the site.

    "The Rune V2 takes a low bottom pull direct mount front derailleur. If you're ordering a Sram front derailleur you'll need an S3, Shimano call theres an E-tipe.
    "

    It quotes that it is low bottom pull direct mount but then later says E-type. Do you have your bike to actually look at it and confim it is E-type? I do not want to be ordering the wrong derailluer and as no shops around here have seen one yet they can not confirm what type it is either.
    I Order this One for my 9 Speed (22/36/bash). It it for 10 Speed, But i Hope it is the right:

    Sram X0 Umwerfer S3 Montage Bottum Pull 2 fach 36-22 Z - TNC Hamburg

    The Information for 9 Speed from Banshee is insufficient!

  90. #290
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    All SRAM S3 2x10 and 3x10 FD's fit. A I mentioned before, we recommend SRAM front derailleurs in general, as they offer more clearance all around.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    All SRAM S3 2x10 and 3x10 FD's fit. A I mentioned before, we recommend SRAM front derailleurs in general, as they offer more clearance all around.

    I understand they fit, you have said that several times,. What I am looking for is info on if they will work with a 9 speed cassette, you have not confirmed that at all. SO I will try my question again, Kieth can I use aSRAM S3 3x10 fd with a 9 speed rear derailleur and 9 speed chain?
    Last edited by Mishtar; 11-25-2012 at 12:40 PM.

  92. #292
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    Yes you can They will happily work with 9speed chain.

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by uzurpator View Post
    Yes you can They will happily work with 9speed chain.
    and this one:

    Shimano SLX Umwerfer FD-M665 E-Type 2x9 fach - TNC Hamburg

  94. #294
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    From what I gathered around, it won't due to clearance issues. Which is kind of a bummer since Shimano e-type deraileurs allow abit of wiggle room regarding the position of the cage, unlike sram S3 offerings.

    EDIT: Which makes me inquire.

    What is the clearance issue with shimano rear mechs? Is it the cage resting on the upper suspension link or hitting the rear triangle when on a granny?

    I guess that in the second case ( hitting on the rear triangle ) one can use 150mm dropouts to resolve the issue.

  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    The M770 will have clearance issues, we only recommend the M985E and M985E2 currently. when we eventually get samples from shimano we will be testing other options.

    All SRAM S3 offering work with good clearance.
    Hello Keith,

    I have a Shimano FD-M675E2 on my Rune V2. There is no problem.

  96. #296
    G_g
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post


    I understand they fit, you have said that several times,. What I am looking for is info on if they will work with a 9 speed cassette, you have not confirmed that at all. SO I will try my question again, Kieth can I use aSRAM S3 3x10 fd with a 9 speed rear derailleur and 9 speed chain?
    Common sense man, it isn't a Banshee specific question if the 2x9 and 2x10 front derailleurs are compatible, and so that you know, they are.

    Don't go mental on this, but Keith had already answered your questions a few post before, you should have done your research better.

    Personal Rant:
    Internet makes me feel like some people just want everything handled on a plate on their front. Don't be an idiot and demand answers. Search a bit before posting, you might avoid looking bad... It is not my duty to help every dumb-@ss who can't even use google, and while I am cooperative and help out, I can't understand the unneeded aggressive attitude some folks have behind a screen. FFS, check google 1st page, and then ask, not exactly rocket science to use google. And please, no dumb smiles or signs of frustration when it's you not getting the point, due to your slackness and lack of research
    Rant Over

  97. #297
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    We went through this last year with the KS-link Prime prototypes. Seems like new component "standards" (front derailuer and others) are being released with almost no coordination or clear documentation to help bike manufacturers, consumers or mechanics.

    There at least 4 different mounting standards now, plus bottom pull and top pull, and different models for 2x and 3x, with different chainring size ranges for each. Way too many options! Although I prefer 1x, I did try several front derailuers on my KS-link Prime, and the 2x specific SRAM S3 had the most chainstay clearance and fit the best. I also found that E13 chainguides worked fine, and MRP's didn't clear the lower KS link (also had very poor documentation). The KS link Rune may be different.

    Front derailuers suck- even when they work, they cut into your tire clearance and create potential chainsuck issues. So much simpler to run 1x, with a small single front ring and a wide range cassette. Funny that SRAM is pursuing this, after riders have been doing it DIY style for years.

  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by G_g View Post
    Common sense man, it isn't a Banshee specific question if the 2x9 and 2x10 front derailleurs are compatible, and so that you know, they are.

    Don't go mental on this, but Keith had already answered your questions a few post before, you should have done your research better.

    Personal Rant:
    Internet makes me feel like some people just want everything handled on a plate on their front. Don't be an idiot and demand answers. Search a bit before posting, you might avoid looking bad... It is not my duty to help every dumb-@ss who can't even use google, and while I am cooperative and help out, I can't understand the unneeded aggressive attitude some folks have behind a screen. FFS, check google 1st page, and then ask, not exactly rocket science to use google. And please, no dumb smiles or signs of frustration when it's you not getting the point, due to your slackness and lack of research
    Rant Over
    Seriously you're going to try to say I did not do my research? I spent 10 plus hours on google and talking to my local shop and emailing banshee. Kieth did not answer my question above, as well the person at banshee who responded to my email recommended the exact derailleur kieth said will not work. After 3 days of trying to get a answer to what derailleur will work with a 3x9 set up with 2 rings I still have not had kieth or anyone from banshee say yes these 3x10 derailleur's we recommend will work with a 3x9 crank set and derailleur.

    I get the ones that kieth recommend will work for the rune, but show me where he said they will work with what I stated I have which once again for the record is a 3x9 system set up with a bash guard vice a large ring. From my google research I am reading that the chain being a 9 speed vice a 10 speed may not work with a 3x10 derailluer. Since it is a 22/32 chain ring set up 2x10 systems will not work from my research as the 22 is to low.
    Last edited by Mishtar; 11-24-2012 at 02:24 PM.

  99. #299
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    10 plus hours on google and talking to my local shop and emailing banshee..
    Nobody knows, now that there are 400+ part numbers to test for compatibility.

  100. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Nobody knows, now that there are 400+ part numbers to test for compatibility.

    +1 to that.

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