• 10-08-2013
    dansMTB
    What do folks think of the open 135mm dropouts? Does the rear still feel plenty stiff?
  • 10-12-2013
    Gemini2k05
    6 Attachment(s)
    Finally some pics

    35.4 pounds with single plys right now (and that's a coil fork). Only thing to note, for the xt cranks with straitline guide, I had to put a 2.5mm spacer on the drive side BB cup to get it to line up correctly. Even with no spacers on the guide mounting bolts it was interfering a TINY bit. If I can get my hands on slightly thinner BB spacer that would be best.

    This thing feels pretty burly. Definitely stiffer than your average trail bike. Also at 6'7" it feels pretty big. Bigger than I was expecting, which is good. I just wish they're make size specific headtube lengths. The short head tube with a lot of fork steerer exposed definitely makes it a little flexier than it should be. I guess it's just a cost saving measure though. Yes those are 25.4, 3" rise handlebars.

    Attachment 838617

    Attachment 838618

    Attachment 838619

    Attachment 838620

    Attachment 838621

    Attachment 838622
  • 10-13-2013
    Uphill=sad
    Anyone running 180mm cranks? Just wondering what the clearance is like, currently on 170's and not having the slightest problem with clearance - mid dropout position.

    Not much liking the 170's, used a few online calculators and my inseam is off the charts and they recommend 180>, I used 180's in the past and quite like the feel, just worried about clearance and pedal strikes mostly during technical climbs.
  • 10-13-2013
    diablosp
    Re: Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    Here it is, my Rune with a "lightish" build for trail and long enduro routes.

    A bit under 14kg, it feels surprisingly good on the climbs, and planted on the downhills. I'm liking it a lot.

  • 10-13-2013
    Gemini2k05
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Uphill=sad View Post

    Not much liking the 170's, used a few online calculators and my inseam is off the charts and they recommend 180>, I used 180's in the past and quite like the feel, just worried about clearance and pedal strikes mostly during technical climbs.

    What's your inseam? Mine's 37", I just put 180 cranks on my road bike, gonna try it out tomorrow. I kinda wish i could try some 180 on the rune. Do they even make 180 XTs? My climbs are usually just fireroad so i think i could get away with it.
  • 10-13-2013
    Gemini2k05
    Also, that DBair has terrible rebound damping. adjusters are all the way in and still feels like a pogo stick. I'm selling that thing asap. It doesn't work for high spring rates. Maybe softer ones its good.
  • 10-13-2013
    cunningstunts
    i have RF Turbine 180's on my 29er. it was available so i thought i'd try it. i like it, but wouldn't put them on my Range KB (equivalent to the Rune). so much plush travel would mean even more strikes.
  • 10-13-2013
    Uphill=sad
    All shimano cranks come in 180's, looking at another pair of XT's, the right weight, stiffness and price.

    My inseam is 39 with my SPD shoes on, I ride a large rune with a 435mm LEV pole that's slightly above the don't go past line, but the reach on the bike is pretty spot on.

    Also mostly climbing on fire roads or smooth trail, so I think (hope) I can get away with it.

    My rebound damping on the CCDBA is quite good, very predictable and right where I want it. So far been very happy with it's performance, I weight 235.
  • 10-14-2013
    krj
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by diablosp View Post
    Here it is, my Rune with a "lightish" build for trail and long enduro routes.

    A bit under 14kg, it feels surprisingly good on the climbs, and planted on the downhills. I'm liking it a
    ]

    How does pike feel on the rune ?

    Is it 26 or 27.5 ?
  • 10-14-2013
    MartinS
    There must be something wrong with the shock, they are super adjustable. Call Cane Creek.
    I've run 180s on all my bikes for the last 20 years (cept on my dh bike, run 170s), no prob on my Prime.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Gemini2k05 View Post
    Also, that DBair has terrible rebound damping. adjusters are all the way in and still feels like a pogo stick. I'm selling that thing asap. It doesn't work for high spring rates. Maybe softer ones its good.

  • 10-14-2013
    socalMX
    Edited
  • 10-14-2013
    socalMX
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by diablosp View Post
    Here it is, my Rune with a "lightish" build for trail and long enduro routes.

    A bit under 14kg, it feels surprisingly good on the climbs, and planted on the downhills. I'm liking it a lot.


    Bike looks super mean. Awesome!
  • 10-14-2013
    socalMX
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Gemini2k05 View Post
    Also, that DBair has terrible rebound damping. adjusters are all the way in and still feels like a pogo stick. I'm selling that thing asap. It doesn't work for high spring rates. Maybe softer ones its good.

    Had one on my Yeti & it was ok but too hard to get it dialed for me. Loving my Float-X! Pic on previous page.
  • 10-14-2013
    Gemini2k05
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Had one on my Yeti & it was ok but too hard to get it dialed for me. Loving my Float-X! Pic on previous page.

    Yeah I've talked to some people, and they report similar rebound problems. So its definitely not a defective shock. It's also pretty damn linear. Not sure I like that. Might go with xfusion.
  • 10-14-2013
    krf350lv
    1 Attachment(s)
    27.5 Banshee Rune V2
    Almost done. Few upgrades left to do...

    Raw Med. frame
    Pike 160mm
    CCDB Air
    Hope Tech 2s
    Novatec's on Flows
    27.5 Maxxis Highroller II's F&R 2.35 Tubeless
    SLX Cranks with Zee 11-36 Cassette
    MRP G3 w/34t Race Face Ring
    Chris King Inset
    Enduro Ceramic BB
    Crank Brothers Mallet DH Pedals
    Crank Brothers Dropper Post
    SDG Seat
    Straitline 50mm stem
    Renthal Fatbars 780mm 38mm rise w/ODI Rouge Grips

    31.6 lbs as it sits in the attached pic

    SIXC 170mm cranks and KMC X10SL chain sitting in the garage waiting to be installed.
  • 10-15-2013
    builttoride
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Gemini2k05 View Post
    Yeah I've talked to some people, and they report similar rebound problems. So its definitely not a defective shock. It's also pretty damn linear. Not sure I like that. Might go with xfusion.

    If you are finding the DBair too linear for you, it is a 30 second tool free job to add the volume spacers. They can make a significant difference.
  • 10-15-2013
    NoStyle
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    If you are finding the DBair too linear for you, it is a 30 second tool free job to add the volume spacers. They can make a significant difference.

    Exactly this!!! The Spacers add some more Progression to the Mid-Stroke, but mostly the End of Stroke. Itīs really an easy Fix.
  • 10-15-2013
    diablosp
    Re: Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by krj View Post
    How does pike feel on the rune ?

    Is it 26 or 27.5 ?

    I can't comment much on it right now, it's still not broken in.

    But right from the start you feel high sensitivity to small bumps and nice support on the braking. It's also very stiff, I think it matches well with the cane creek double barrel.

    I'll add a more in depth review later when I get a more complete picture of the bike.
  • 10-17-2013
    stunzeed
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    Slacked her out , so much fun. Wheels are temporary until my 650Bs come in.

  • 10-18-2013
    el_guillyt
    A question for Keith: what is the meaning of the "R" marks on the KS links? I just did a 1/2 year maintenance/check and I found confusing those marks, no problem with the lower link, but top link seems symmetrical and the "R" doesn't mean right hand

    Enviado desde mi HTC Desire X usando Tapatalk
  • 10-18-2013
    builttoride
    R= Rune
  • 10-18-2013
    el_guillyt
    Re: Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    R= Rune

    Thanks!

    Enviado desde mi HTC Desire X usando Tapatalk
  • 10-18-2013
    JD Risk
    I didn't compare the geo of the V2 to the V1 but I had a V1 and I feel like the tt is shorter on the V2. The V1 felt perfect. I almost wish my V2 was an XL instead of a L. I'm 6'1'' and the tt feels a bit cramped, causing a little too much of my weight to be on the bars. It's only a problem when my seat is all the way up and I'm on flat ground. Maybe the seat tube angle is steeper on the V2? Anyone else notice this?

    I'm contemplating putting the bike in it's slackest setting, and getting a slightly longer stem with a bit more rise. Right now I have a 50mm stem with no rise and the front end feels really low.
  • 10-18-2013
    builttoride
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by JD Risk View Post
    I didn't compare the geo of the V2 to the V1 but I had a V1 and I feel like the tt is shorter on the V2. The V1 felt perfect. I almost wish my V2 was an XL instead of a L. I'm 6'1'' and the tt feels a bit cramped, causing a little too much of my weight to be on the bars. It's only a problem when my seat is all the way up and I'm on flat ground. Maybe the seat tube angle is steeper on the V2? Anyone else notice this?

    I'm contemplating putting the bike in it's slackest setting, and getting a slightly longer stem with a bit more rise. Right now I have a 50mm stem with no rise and the front end feels really low.

    The V2 does indeed have a steeper seat angle... before you spend any money, try moving your saddle back in the rails and see if that solves it for you.
  • 10-18-2013
    JD Risk
    Thanks for the quick response. I just looked at my saddle and I have plenty of room to go back. By the way, I do like the steep seat angle - when you raise the saddle for climbing you don't end up way back over the rear wheel, which helps a lot when climbing with a slack bike.
  • 10-18-2013
    VoidWanderer
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by JD Risk View Post
    By the way, I do like the steep seat angle - when you raise the saddle for climbing you don't end up way back over the rear wheel, which helps a lot when climbing with a slack bike.

    That was the whole point of steep seat tube, I suppose :)

    I'd like to ask the happy owners of L-sized Runes.
    How deep can you insert the seatpost? With my current bike I can only go 22.5cm (~9 inches) deep and I'm wondering what to expect from L-sized Rune.
  • 10-18-2013
    mantra
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by VoidWanderer View Post
    That was the whole point of steep seat tube, I suppose :)

    I'd like to ask the happy owners of L-sized Runes.
    How deep can you insert the seatpost? With my current bike I can only go 22.5cm (~9 inches) deep and I'm wondering what to expect from L-sized Rune.

    I got my frame today and donīt have a seatpost yet, but it looks like the max is about 30cm for a size L.
  • 10-18-2013
    VoidWanderer
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mantra View Post
    but it looks like the max is about 30cm for a size L.

    That would be really great, but actual measurement will help me a lot :)
  • 10-18-2013
    mantra
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by VoidWanderer View Post
    That would be really great, but actual measurement will help me a lot :)

    You can get that tomorrow.
  • 10-18-2013
    dirtrider76
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 94krawler View Post
    That MRP AMG looks like the way to go. Thanks guys!

    Ehhh so that would have been the easy thing to do. Instead I got a new xxs1 crankset, discarded the spider and ring for a 30t Wolftooth direct mount and havent dropped a chain since. Dropped wieght, no need for a guide(so far anyways) and simple.


    My old 32t Renthal ring with a X9 clutch derailiuer still dropped the chain frequently.
  • 10-19-2013
    mantra
    @VoidWanderer: Sorry mate...the one seatpost I found today is only 27cm long and it drops in all the way. Hope this helps atleast a bit?!
  • 10-19-2013
    VoidWanderer
    This helps a lot!
    It means that I will be perfectly comfortable with L size. Good news :)
  • 10-28-2013
    84532
    Question for you folks...

    I have a 2013 large Rune frame in the stand waiting for parts. I ordered a Rockshox Monarch RT3 for it thru my shop but I never specified the tune or length so I worried that I'll probably be receiving a shock which won't work for this frame. What size/tune should I be getting for this frame? Should I look into another shock altogether like a Float? I live in Moab and weigh about 170-175 with all my gear.
  • 10-28-2013
    hssp
    Why not the Monarch Plus RC3? My opinion is that Float is not enough for these kinds of bikes
  • 10-28-2013
    cockymonster
    Has any of you had a chance to compare the CCDB Air to the Float X in a Rune, or at least in another identical frame?
    My Rune is coming in a few weeks, and I'm still torn what's best for me. Ordered it with the CCDB.
    the bike will be carried a lot, so the weight savings would be nice, but the reason for getting the Rune is that i want a bike with a very good suspension performance for high alpine technical as well as fast riding (very little park riding), so i think i will be happy about the ability to really dial in the shock settings on the CCDB...

    any experience you'd care to share?
    thanks in advance!
  • 10-29-2013
    Nemesis-FIN
    Does anybody ride FOX coil shock with the Rune V2?

    Banshee recommended 350lbs coil for 80kg/ ~175lbs, but with my Trek Remedy I have 500lbs coil, does the Rune KS-linkage differ so much from the Remedy that 350lbs is enough?

    So, please share what coils do you use with the Rune V2, help is appreciated.
  • 10-29-2013
    84532
    ^^ I, too, would like to know about anyone using a coil rear shock. I've always had coil rear shocks and reading about air shocks kinda makes me think I'd prefer to stay with a coil rear shock since I value simplicity and plushness more than weight savings. Seems like air shocks are harder to dial in but like I said I've had zero experience since all my bikes have had a fox coil rear. I'd like to know more about it since you don't really see any Runes with a coil rear. I weigh 155-160 lbs.

    Thanks for the monarch plus suggestion, hssp. I'll look into that as we'll.
  • 10-29-2013
    builttoride
    There is a spring calculator here that is as accurate as you'll need.
    TF Tuned Shox - Spring Calculator

    The rune can be considered as single pivot / DW link on this site, as that is based on leverage curves.

    The reason that the rune doesn't require as heavy a spring as the trek is due to the rune having a lower leverage ratio for better damping performance and lower frame loading.
  • 10-29-2013
    Nemesis-FIN
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    There is a spring calculator here that is as accurate as you'll need.
    TF Tuned Shox - Spring Calculator

    The rune can be considered as single pivot / DW link on this site, as that is based on leverage curves.

    The reason that the rune doesn't require as heavy a spring as the trek is due to the rune having a lower leverage ratio for better damping performance and lower frame loading.

    Whoa, this is nice =) Help from the bike designer, first time for everything I guess. I'll compare other frames with DW/ single pivot and see what coil TF-Tuned suggest for them, thanks for your advice!
  • 10-29-2013
    builttoride
    OH, and just to confirm, the shock stroke is 2.5" and the travel is 6.3".
  • 10-29-2013
    CALULO
    2 Attachment(s)
    First PIC of my green rune

    Attachment 842727
  • 10-30-2013
    sfofan
    Hello bikers,
    I have a few questions about rear shock on rune V2.
    I have fox float ctd on my rune V2. I was setup sag for 28%- its 16,1mm on the rear shock.
    The suspension was too soft ( I don't have problem take bottom out from place-parking place) After this a was setup extremli small sag-5mm on the shock and suspension is little bit harder but it's still too soft, nothing problem to get bottom out on the parking place. I sent the shock to the service if it's everything ok, and everything was OK. I don't know what i can do, I need more progresive shock? ok i have 95kg;) but i think the shock is too linear for the KS link on the rune. do you have similar experiences or not?
    Thanks for info
  • 11-02-2013
    igorl
    Hi All,

    Did anybody ride both Rune V2 and spec enduro (2010+) and can compare the two?
    I'm not able to test rune so I can only go from what I read.

    Do I understand the main differences:
    - better pedaling with Rune
    - enduro more active (up & down)
    - Rune almost as active as enduro on downs, but more fun when things going fast (ie, riding hard)
    - enduro better on slow tech stuff (shorter chainstays)

    Can anybody chip in their thoughts?

    Also, what size do you 5'8" guys riding? I'm thinking M with short stem. Currently on spicy S with 575 mm TT, 385 mm reach using 50 mm stem.

    Thx.
  • 11-02-2013
    mantra
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by igorl View Post
    Hi All,

    Did anybody ride both Rune V2 and spec enduro (2010+) and can compare the two?
    I'm not able to test rune so I can only go from what I read.

    Do I understand the main differences:
    - better pedaling with Rune
    - enduro more active (up & down)
    - Rune almost as active as enduro on downs, but more fun when things going fast (ie, riding hard)
    - enduro better on slow tech stuff (shorter chainstays)

    Can anybody chip in their thoughts?

    Also, what size do you 5'8" guys riding? I'm thinking M with short stem. Currently on spicy S with 575 mm TT, 385 mm reach using 50 mm stem.

    Thx.

    I had a 2011 Enduro and now a 2014 Rune. In between, I rode a 2012 Stumpjumper Evo (with 160mm Lyrik).

    The worst bike out of the three was the Enduro. The most versatile was the Stumpi. I own the Rune only for one week, so I canīt tell much a this time....

    As far as my current impressions go, I would say that the Rune climbs way better than the 2010-2012 Enduro. It accelerates even better than the Stumpi. It is by far the heaviest of all three.
    Itīs rear suspension is in another league than both Specialized bikes, but it feels relatively dead. Hopping from one root to the other is for sure not the strong side of the Rune. Blowing throught rockgardes is it for sure!

    I donīt really know what you mean with "active" but on the ups, the Rune does everything better than the Enduro. On the downs, the Enduro might be a bit more playfull?!

    To me, the Rune feels more like a verry serious DH bike than a AM bike.

    But to set this in context.... The Enduro 2010-2012 was the most crappy bike Iīve ever owend (and I owend alot...)! It had a great geometry but the rear end was a total disappointment!
    If the Rune feels like 160mm travel, the Enduro feels like 120 tops. But compared to other bikes Iīve owend, the Rune feels like more than 160mm.
    Even the Stumpi with a 140mm shocklink made better use of its travel than the Enduro!

    So...my impressions:
    The Rune isnīt as playfull as many other 160mm bikes, but it rips it the moment it gets ugly.
    In my eyes, it does everything alot better than the 2010-2012 Enduro.
    It is verry slack and verry, verry long (mine has a wheelbase of 1195mm with framesize L, 160mm Lyrik with IS headset), so you need a lot of body english to get it arround tight stuff.

    Slow tech stuff...once you sit on the Enduro, it gets verry slack aswell due to its poor rear kinematics... the difference in the rearend length is not that much... I donīt know why the Enduro should handle this better, but till now, I didnīt ride really techy stuff on the rune...

    Size wise...Iīm on the large side of 6.1" and I ride a large. The Stumpi and the Enduro were also large. As is my Demo.

    My impression is, that the Rune runs verry long! Iīve hard times to lift the front wheel of the ground (50mm stem).
    Banshee recomends to the larger size, but I would say if I were your size, I would for sure got with S.
  • 11-03-2013
    leejords
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by igorl View Post
    Hi All,

    Did anybody ride both Rune V2 and spec enduro (2010+) and can compare the two?
    I'm not able to test rune so I can only go from what I read.

    Do I understand the main differences:
    - better pedaling with Rune
    - enduro more active (up & down)
    - Rune almost as active as enduro on downs, but more fun when things going fast (ie, riding hard)
    - enduro better on slow tech stuff (shorter chainstays)

    Can anybody chip in their thoughts?

    Also, what size do you 5'8" guys riding? I'm thinking M with short stem. Currently on spicy S with 575 mm TT, 385 mm reach using 50 mm stem.

    Thx.

    Based on the quote below saying you should be on a small. I have a Small 2013 Rune v2 with CCDB Air, little use, 3 months old with shop receipt about to go on sale if you are interested?

    All the best,

    Lee.
  • 11-03-2013
    84532
    Edited
  • 11-03-2013
    igorl
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by leejords View Post
    Based on the quote below saying you should be on a small. I have a Small 2013 Rune v2 with CCDB Air, little use, 3 months old with shop receipt about to go on sale if you are interested?

    I'm located in Europe, looking to buy local.

    Out of curiosity, why are you selling it?
  • 11-03-2013
    mantra
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by igorl View Post
    I'm located in Europe, looking to buy local.

    Where in Europe? Maybe I can help...
  • 11-04-2013
    leejords
    UK based, selling due to moving up in size.
  • 11-04-2013
    igorl
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by leejords View Post
    UK based, selling due to moving up in size.

    How big are you? It seems I'm always between sizes (S/M) in all frames I've tried. I'd like an 580 ETT with 410 reach.