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  1. #1251
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    Quote Originally Posted by XavM View Post
    Question to all CCDBA users:
    I finally got CCDB Air for my Rune. I am easily 220 lbs with gear and like to push it on the climbs. In order to get the correct SAG I had to put approx. 160psi in the shock. Then I had to max the LSC to get rid of some of that annoying bobbing.

    Would installing the volume reducer change the way the shock behaves under pedalling power?
    For my Spitfire I took the CCDB-Air as it is due to Volume-Spacers, tuned in the Base-Tune and set it correctly to Sag. After some Rides I added 3 Clicks LSC and LSR and the Bobbing was reduced to a minimum. Others added 4 Clicks LSC and LSR, but maybe this helps ...
    As ptd has mentioned: Adding a volume reducer is meant to firm up the suspension towards the end of stroke rather than beginning for pedalling.

  2. #1252
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    Ready to roll:


  3. #1253
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    The material has changed to a harder steel for the front shock bolt so it can take a little more torque to be a bit more secure. While the rear shock bolt can take 15Nm max, 12Nm is what I run and recommend.

    I also recommend running temp loctite on all bolts to prevent them loosening on the trail. Some PTFE tape wrapped round the thread does a similar job but is a little more fiddly.
    Kieth do you mean it is now a harder steel then the earlier V2runes? I am confused you had wrote this about the V2 frames Earlier in the year, so if I should use 12nm in the rear now what actual number are you recommending for the front shock mount?

    Thank you

  4. #1254
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    My Rune is finished...

    Here is my new Rune...29lb 3 oz ready to ride...

    - Raceface SixC cranks with Narrow Wide ring and XX1 drive.
    - SixC DH bars.
    - KS post and SDG saddle.
    - Chromag stem.
    - Hope Brakes, EVO M4 front and EVO X2 rear.
    - Stans Arch EX wheels, Stans hubs. Hans D. front and Ardent rear.
    -Crank Bro Candy Pedals.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2013-07-23-00.38.50.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2013-07-23-00.37.18.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune-sm-2.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune-sm-1.jpg  


  5. #1255
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    Dam kiwanoran that almost makes me embarrassed to post mine! I kid...Super nice setup & weight!


    I finally bought a Rune after months of lurking. I wanted to try the 650b thing and this deal fell in my lap! Picked up this large raw 27.5 Rune with Stans wheels and full XT kit for $3200 slightly used (good deal?). First ride today and loving the new wheel size so far as it picks up speed fast and just freight trains downhill. Hittin a bike park Friday. Sits at 32lbs 10oz. Here it is with my Yeti ASR-7!

  6. #1256
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    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune01.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune02.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune06.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune07.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune10.jpg

    My Rune with some updates.
    Last edited by uzurpator; 08-13-2013 at 02:21 PM.

  7. #1257
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    Can Zee RD can handle dual front ring setup?

  8. #1258
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    It cannot. However, I have all the rear gears available when on the big ring and bottom three ( largest cogs ) when on the granny, which covers the gears I use completely.

  9. #1259
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    I was thinking to do the same setup but hesitate. Great to hear that someone actually doing it. Thanks

  10. #1260
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    Rememeber the check that the rear dereailleur can cope with the added chainstretch when suspension is fully compressed by taking air out of the shock and cycling through travel... this is a really important thing to consider when choosing chain length and setup that is sometimes overlooked.
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  11. #1261
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    It can cope just fine I always size the chain with the suspension fully compressed

  12. #1262
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    Have had my large Rune for under a week and loving it. Question, was at the bike park yesterday and at times there was a strange clunk like kick back on the rebound of the rear when deep in the travel. Is this normal? Running a CTD with 2x10 drive.

  13. #1263
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Have had my large Rune for under a week and loving it. Question, was at the bike park yesterday and at times there was a strange clunk like kick back on the rebound of the rear when deep in the travel. Is this normal? Running a CTD with 2x10 drive.

    I also experience this- thought it was chain slap/clunk on hard hits, so I installed a C guide. It's very quiet now, but there is still some kind of hard clunk/or 'pack up' on square edge impacts. It's not bottom out on the CCDBA I've watched the 'O" ring carefully. I run slightly slow rebound (high and low speed) for booters and better tracking through chunder.

  14. #1264
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    Quote Originally Posted by djball View Post
    I also experience this- thought it was chain slap/clunk on hard hits, so I installed a C guide. It's very quiet now, but there is still some kind of hard clunk/or 'pack up' on square edge impacts. It's not bottom out on the CCDBA I've watched the 'O" ring carefully. I run slightly slow rebound (high and low speed) for booters and better tracking through chunder.
    Went for a quick ride this AM and looked down while this was happening & noticed the chain retracting. Going with a type 2 clutch derailleur & single speed XX1 crankset so hoping it disappears.

  15. #1265
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    The "clunk" could be attributed to a clutch style derailleur (if you have one) but it could also be the DU bushings on the shock. I have actually felt the "clunk" since day one on my bike and have recently discovered that it is due to the DU bushings on my Fox CTD. I have some new bushings on order so we shall see if this proves to be the fix to my ghost clunking.

  16. #1266
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    Curious if you guys with the "clunk" have checked chain length under full compression?
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  17. #1267
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    Finally..

    After 6 months decorating a new house I finally got round to building the frame I had sat in the garage. Very happy at the moment but not had much time on it yet.

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_0135.jpg

  18. #1268
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    Anyone in the 6'4" area riding a Banshee Rune and what size? I ride a large Norco SixTwo now and a quick glance at the spec's makes it seem the large Rune is longer but I'd rather check in before I order.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  19. #1269
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    Im 6'4 mate and have an XL rune. Fit is fine, although I do need run a lot of extension on my seat post to get into an efficient pedalling position. Note also the HT is quite short so make sure you measure accurately before trimming your steerer to ensure your front end is not too low.

    The large simply would not cut it for me personally. Ive owned a heap of Xl Bikes (5.7c (still), Nomad, Zula and the Rune is of similar dims to all of these.

    Very happy.

    Quote Originally Posted by 94krawler View Post
    Anyone in the 6'4" area riding a Banshee Rune and what size? I ride a large Norco SixTwo now and a quick glance at the spec's makes it seem the large Rune is longer but I'd rather check in before I order.

  20. #1270
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    Quote Originally Posted by 94krawler View Post
    Anyone in the 6'4" area riding a Banshee Rune and what size? I ride a large Norco SixTwo now and a quick glance at the spec's makes it seem the large Rune is longer but I'd rather check in before I order.
    I'm 6.3 and on a large, I probably should have gotten an XL, but the large frame was a ex-demo and very cheap. XL would definitely be the way to go unless you tend to like a smaller frame. As jbrowne said, the head tube is very short double check what spacers you need prior to cutting. On a large with a the banshee seat pole - length 400mm +(?) I am using the entire pole to the minimum insertion lenght. Finding the reach on a large pretty good for AM riding and perhaps a little short on climbs and XC riding.

  21. #1271
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    Thanks for the input guys. I'm really torn, thought I'd ride a friends Xl bike yesterday and get some idea which felt better. The XL(Giant Reign) felt nice doing XC riding but my L(Norco SixTwo) was much more fun and easy to toss around on fast AM type stuff and flow trail's.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  22. #1272
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    It is VERY EASY to determine if the "CLUNK" is a sticky Sram Type 2 (clutch) derailleur. Compress the suspension to see if you have the "CLUNK" then just engage the lock on the derailleur to give a bunch of slack in the chain and compress the suspension to see if the "CLUNK" is still there.

    I have had the "CLUNK" since I built my bike. I ripped it apart down to the pivots looking for the "CLUNK" and then noticed that due to chain growth on the compression of the suspension the derailleur pivots forward ever so slightly at the clutch. A tiny bit of stickiness in the clutch is felt at slow speeds on your bike when there is a bit of chain growth on suspension compression.

  23. #1273
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    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-p4pb9808458.jpgMy Rune V2

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-p4pb9808461.jpg

  24. #1274
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    I switched to a 1x (XX1 crank running 1x10) and the clunk is GONE and I have yet to install my clutch derailleur, still running the XT medium. Such a nice setup and super quiet. No chain guide with the 32t ring and I have yet to drop a chain!


    Ordered a Pike 650b 160mm solo air and ditching the 34 CTD. I have yet to see a Rune with a new Pike!

  25. #1275
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    Are the runes Post Mount 160mm in the rear or is the smallest rotor size a pm 180?

    Thanks

  26. #1276
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    My rune has 150mm drops and it has standard IS brake mount. I can mount 140mm disc, if I fancy so.

  27. #1277
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    Do sombody use 650B dropouts for Rune? Is it real profit or not against 26" dropouts?

  28. #1278
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    honestly dont worry about 650b. look at cranworx race, most used 26" because real dh tires existed and it helps to ride better on gnarly stuffs.

  29. #1279
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    Yes worry about 650b. Game changer!

  30. #1280
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  31. #1281
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    Dirt magazine did a review of the Rune v2 earlier this year and said, amongst other things, that you'd 'be crazy not to run the bigger wheels'. However, im cynical that they're part of the industry and are toeing the line. As for me, if i was riding competitive enduro then I might run 650b. But I ride for fun so its 26inches all the way

  32. #1282
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    Rune v2 with 180 mm fork or is the Rune the right choice for me?

    I am considering the rune v2 as my next frame. A couple questions?
    I was in the middle of building up a tr250 and ran into a deficiency with the used frame I had... so I ditched it. It is now discontinued. I am left with a brand new in box 2014 fox talas 180mm, i9 150mm spaced hub and a zee component group. The rune seams like a great option. People have mentioned running a 180mm fork but I cant find any comments on how it will affect the ride either positive or negative. I try to avoid climbing tech. Bike will be used for North Shore mostly... climbing fromme to pipeline, ladies etc. Some shuttling.. cbc etc.... Squamish University trails 19th hole etc. and Climbing to Full Nelson. Also... 5 to 7 days whistler bike park Garbo, wc Dh, Joyride freight train, dirt merch etc. The travel adjust should keep it In a good place for climbing so Im not at all worried about that. But will the long travel fork ruin the geo for descending, jumping, dropping, berming etc. Or maybe the new darkside proto is more what I need? Keith? Anyone?

  33. #1283
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    Quote Originally Posted by han_slomo View Post
    I am considering the rune v2 as my next frame. A couple questions?
    I was in the middle of building up a tr250 and ran into a deficiency with the used frame I had... so I ditched it. It is now discontinued. I am left with a brand new in box 2014 fox talas 180mm, i9 150mm spaced hub and a zee component group. The rune seams like a great option. People have mentioned running a 180mm fork but I cant find any comments on how it will affect the ride either positive or negative. I try to avoid climbing tech. Bike will be used for North Shore mostly... climbing fromme to pipeline, ladies etc. Some shuttling.. cbc etc.... Squamish University trails 19th hole etc. and Climbing to Full Nelson. Also... 5 to 7 days whistler bike park Garbo, wc Dh, Joyride freight train, dirt merch etc. The travel adjust should keep it In a good place for climbing so Im not at all worried about that. But will the long travel fork ruin the geo for descending, jumping, dropping, berming etc. Or maybe the new darkside proto is more what I need? Keith? Anyone?
    Honestly, it will be SLACK. I have a fox 36 160mm on mine in the middle geo setting and it is awesome, but on twisty flat trails it is a bit weird. If I'm not mistaken, you can't really charge with the talas in the lower setting since the internals aren't really meant for that correct? If you could keep it in the short travel setting while riding downhill I'd say you're set, but otherwise I wouldn't really recommend it. Then again, I would bet if your fork is brand new you could sell it for enough to buy a new or mint condition 160mm fork in the buy sell ya? That is what I would do, I love mine with a float 36.

  34. #1284
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    Quote Originally Posted by han_slomo View Post
    I am considering the rune v2 as my next frame. A couple questions?
    I was in the middle of building up a tr250 and ran into a deficiency with the used frame I had... so I ditched it. It is now discontinued. I am left with a brand new in box 2014 fox talas 180mm, i9 150mm spaced hub and a zee component group. The rune seams like a great option. People have mentioned running a 180mm fork but I cant find any comments on how it will affect the ride either positive or negative. I try to avoid climbing tech. Bike will be used for North Shore mostly... climbing fromme to pipeline, ladies etc. Some shuttling.. cbc etc.... Squamish University trails 19th hole etc. and Climbing to Full Nelson. Also... 5 to 7 days whistler bike park Garbo, wc Dh, Joyride freight train, dirt merch etc. The travel adjust should keep it In a good place for climbing so Im not at all worried about that. But will the long travel fork ruin the geo for descending, jumping, dropping, berming etc. Or maybe the new darkside proto is more what I need? Keith? Anyone?
    I have a rune just like you described -> linky:
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psbe7e2a06.jpg

    And it is a blast. I can climb well, I can descend with confidence. Granted, it is not as nimble as 140/140 BMC i owned earlier, but in its caliber of bikes, it rocks.

    Notice however, it is going to be a pedalable DH bike. I have 64.5* HA and something like 345mm BB height.

  35. #1285
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    My Rune with the 160 Solo Air Pike. This fork is super light and is supposed to perform! First ride tomorrow at the Big Bear bike park.

  36. #1286
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    socalMX, breaking it in easy eh? right to the bike park! have you posted any build details yet? would love to know.
    ------------------------
    i don't know the guy myself but there is a local rider on a Rune with a 180mm fork and apparently he loves it. for sure it's almost entirely a DH/freeride bike with pedalling abilities.

  37. #1287
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    Yea man, this fork got raped as a virgin (bad analogy)...

    The fork performed well. I still have some adjusting to do but all was pretty good. I am having a hard time finding a balance with the compression and rebound. The air weight chart is just crap, they should do away with that completely. Running the suggested pressure the fork was really harsh and was at 10% sag. I took the bike down the Miracle Mile trail which is Big Bears expert trail (im no expert) and the fork was awesome in the switchback berm sections and brake dive was minimal. I will try slowing down the rebound, dropping 5lbs more air tomorrow as my local trail will be a better place to dial this fork in. The front of this bike is super lightweight, and with the short chainstays it manuals better than any bike I have had. As you can see in the pic I ran the lowest/slackest geo for todays ride (flip chips by rear dropouts) and it was a mini DH bike! Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-p4pb9979024.jpg

    Large frame with full XT build. I swapped out the XT 2x crank for the XX1 and could not be happier, well that's until I could afford the rest of the XX1 kit. But honestly the 11-36 cassette is a great match for the 32t front. I love not having to run a guide and never having a dropped chain. The 27.5 wheel size is just awesome and the Stans wheels/hubs are really stiff, lightweight and can take a beating.

  38. #1288
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    Re: Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Yea man, this fork got raped as a virgin (bad analogy)...

    The fork performed well. I still have some adjusting to do but all was pretty good. I am having a hard time finding a balance with the compression and rebound. The air weight chart is just crap, they should do away with that completely. Running the suggested pressure the fork was really harsh and was at 10% sag. I took the bike down the Miracle Mile trail which is Big Bears expert trail (im no expert) and the fork was awesome in the switchback berm sections and brake dive was minimal. I will try slowing down the rebound, dropping 5lbs more air tomorrow as my local trail will be a better place to dial this fork in. The front of this bike is super lightweight, and with the short chainstays it manuals better than any bike I have had. As you can see in the pic I ran the lowest/slackest geo for todays ride (flip chips by rear dropouts) and it was a mini DH bike! Click image for larger version. 

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    Large frame with full XT build. I swapped out the XT 2x crank for the XX1 and could not be happier, well that's until I could afford the rest of the XX1 kit. But honestly the 11-36 cassette is a great match for the 32t front. I love not having to run a guide and never having a dropped chain. The 27.5 wheel size is just awesome and the Stans wheels/hubs are really stiff, lightweight and can take a beating.
    So your the one who nabed that bike from the Path before I could get to it lol.

  39. #1289
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    Yea that's it but changed tires, bars, stem, grips, crank, pedals, rear der., and fork. They gave me a great cash deal!

  40. #1290
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    Hi
    First of all, sorry for my bad english, i'm from Belgium and do my best.
    I really like the new Rune and want to buy it but i have some questions about sizing etc.
    I would like to build the frame with 650b wheels. Now i really like the idea of a long wheelbase and short stem (35mm). Looking at Dan Athertons new prototype GT it seems to be the perfect endurobike.
    I'm 6' and hesitating between size L with a 50mm stem and size XL with 35mm stem. I'm sure the XL would be better for riding downhill but i'm wondering if it still would be OK for riding flatter trails with tight corners?
    Is there anyone who has a similar setup?
    Also i was wondering which shock to get. For the 2014 they added the optionto go with the Fox Float X CTD. Anyone ridden this shock and can compare it to a CCDB Air?
    Many Thanks!

  41. #1291
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    So I tried to order a XL Rune in blue and seems they cant be had I was told they wont be making anymore in blue and havent made any since the begining of the year. All I can find is the black and the raw, the yellow and blue are gone it seem's. I can preorder the Green or black on black 2014 but I broke my Norco Sat. night and am currently out a bike.

    Anyone have a line on a XL rune in blue? This is kinda my last ditch effort at getting a blue one.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  42. #1292
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    de mich, short stem is good idea. I'm 177cm and took Large with 30mm Syntace. I love it. To give idea about other bikes and riders who ride them, compare reach and stack and see if it fits you.

    CCDB air is better than CTD because I like simple shocks. This has switch for climbing. But Fox products can always be improved with Push tuning if you like.

  43. #1293
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    Quote Originally Posted by de mich View Post
    Hi
    First of all, sorry for my bad english, i'm from Belgium and do my best.
    I really like the new Rune and want to buy it but i have some questions about sizing etc.
    I would like to build the frame with 650b wheels. Now i really like the idea of a long wheelbase and short stem (35mm). Looking at Dan Athertons new prototype GT it seems to be the perfect endurobike.
    I'm 6' and hesitating between size L with a 50mm stem and size XL with 35mm stem. I'm sure the XL would be better for riding downhill but i'm wondering if it still would be OK for riding flatter trails with tight corners?
    Is there anyone who has a similar setup?
    Also i was wondering which shock to get. For the 2014 they added the optionto go with the Fox Float X CTD. Anyone ridden this shock and can compare it to a CCDB Air?
    Many Thanks!
    Hey De Mich, I agree fully with Tomasis. I am just short of 6' with a 33" inseam and am riding a Large with a 50mm RF Atlas stem. Feels great, but wouldnt want to ride anything bigger ie: my 5" RS Reverb post is only a little above the collar. I think the perfect size for me would be somewhere between the M and L. XL would be huge.

    Shocks - My frame came with the Fox CTD (not Float X) but didnt like it and swapped to a CCBD Air after a couple of months of trying to get the CTD to feel plush and failing. Maybe the Float X has fixed this, but I have to say the CCDB Air feels amazing. I dont mind a little more pedal feedback if it makes the downhills smoother!

  44. #1294
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    Looks like I got a new Rune on the way!


    Whats working for 9speed front derailuer's? Looks like the direct mounts are all 10spd?
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  45. #1295
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    does anyone here run 2.5's on the rear of their Rune? How is the clearance?

  46. #1296
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmxking45 View Post
    does anyone here run 2.5's on the rear of their Rune? How is the clearance?
    Clearance is excellent, more than adequate.

    I've run a 2.4 High Roller II, 2.5 Higher roller, 2.35 Hand Dampf, 2.5 Minion (visually looks smaller than the hans). Can usually fit my index finger between the tyre and stays.

  47. #1297
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    I just ordered the Kenda Nevegal 2.5 FR (freeride) which is replacing my Maxxis DHR II which I blew out the sidewall after 3 rides. Hopefully I like it!!

  48. #1298
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    Thanks guys, i'll be going for a Large because a wheelbase of 1215 would be a bit of overkill i think on the flatter trails. What about the forks? Deville tapered 160 650b vs RS Pike?

  49. #1299
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    SocalMX - any comment on the stiffness difference between the Pike and 34?

  50. #1300
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    Have a spitfire on order - can anyone tell me if it includes the front direct mount derailleur mounting bolts and the half moon looking spacer? My direct mount xt front mech didn't include them.

    Thanks!

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