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  1. #1201
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    Hey, dont quote me on this (I may be wrong) but I recently changed from a Fox CTD to a CCDB-A on my Rune and had to buy a new mounting kit. I was told the older Fox RP23's use the same spacing as the CCDBA but not the newer Float CTD shocks. And for what its worth, I'm finding the CCDBA way nicer than the Fox for my style of riding and terrain (Vancouver's North Shore). The Fox felt a little harsh and couldnt achieve full travel, the CC is super plush even with the regular can.

  2. #1202
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    so i have a question.

    how many of you riders are taking your runes into a bike park?

    i live near philly and have another bike, but i want to use this bike for rough trails and bike parks such as spring mtn, blue and mountain creek.

    i emailed banshee directly and somebody told me that this model is not recommend for a bike park, but i see a couple of you in a bike park. how are your bikes holding up? how many of you are riding 180 coil forks? do you find 180 too much for trail riding?
    2014 L Banshee Spitfire Black

  3. #1203
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    Who told you that the Rune has no official permission for the park? Banshee? I thought regular park visits pose no problem for the Rune... can anyone shed some light on this?

  4. #1204
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    Also surprised to read that! I thought it was designed to shred parks and many other abuses...

  5. #1205
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    Quote Originally Posted by guswalls View Post
    ... i emailed banshee directly and somebody told me that this model is not recommend for a bike park, but i see a couple of you in a bike park ...
    Not recommend does not mean itīs not allowed and is going to void Warranty, right? Even the Banshee-Guys tested the Runes in Parks and on local Downhills ...
    The Rune is an AM/Enduro-Bike, not a dedicated Park-Bike like the Scythe or Wildcard! It has got another Purpose, thatīs it. Hell - Iīm riding my Spitfire in Bike-Parks ... depending on the Trails I have to be more or less carefull.

  6. #1206
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    The Rune V2 can cope with the odd park day, but it is not a park bike as such, it's an all mountain machine.
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  7. #1207
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    I don't think that 3.3 kilos worth of rune frame cannot withstand what 3.3 kilos worth of trek session frame can...

    EDIT: changed: trek session frame cannot... to :trek session frame can...
    Last edited by uzurpator; 06-28-2013 at 04:09 PM.

  8. #1208
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    But the session is designed specifically for DH, the rune is designed for all mountain / enduro. I just want to make it clear that the rune is not a DH frame and setting up with tripple clamp forks will void warranty. If a customer is looking for a bike to be used mainly for park riding and DH, then they should get a bike designed for that purpose like the legend, scythe or wildcard. If you want a bike to ride all mountain, enduro and the odd days XC or bikepark then the Rune V2 is a great opton.
    Last edited by builttoride; 06-14-2013 at 07:33 AM.
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  9. #1209
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    Saying that the Rune is an All Mountain bike is a huge understatement

    Only a few more lines of code to add at work, then it's rise and shine again for the beast. Can't wait to hit the woods!

  10. #1210
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    But the session is designed specifically for DH, the rune is designed for all mountain / enduro. I just want to make it clear that the rune is not a DH frame and setting up with tripple clamp forks will void warranty, if a customer is looking for a bike to be used mainly for park riding and DH, then they should get a bike designed for that purpose like the legend, scythe or wildcard. If yu want a bike to ride all mountain, enduro and the odd days XC or bikepark then the Rune V2 is a great opton.
    I think we first need to define what "all mountain" is. Take a look at this ( it is a footage of the winner of a race I attended a month ago ( my score was 75% of the winner, btw. A honorary 120th place ( for 170 attendees ) ):

    Enduro Trophy Wilkowice 2013. OES 1 Kamera Remik - YouTube

    EDIT: Action starts at 1:10

    We call this "beskidian chopfest" and these are normal riding conditions of people around here. People ride this with 140-160mm travel bikes in excess of 30mph.

    Anyhow. In comprison, most bike parks I have seen have either flowy engineered jumps and such or are, honestly, no worse then the above. The only bike park I actually rode was like a smooth rollercoaster in comparison to my typical riding conditions.

    How I see it. Rune does not have the reinforcements around the headtube to run a dual crown fork. So running such will eventually cause stress cracks around the HT and damage the frame in the longer run. Obviously Rune has less travel, and probably slightly different rear suspension setup. But when set up correctly it should withstand whatever Session does. And Session, being the tin-can it is, can take some serious beating before giving up.

  11. #1211
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    Itīs just pretty simple:
    Banshee donīt want Riders to put any larger Forks than 18 cm Travel on the Rune - no 20 cm Tripple-Crown Forks, or 18 cm Forks with -2 Deg Angleset - to slacken it out to the max. Then Riders smashing the **** out of it, regardless of Park or Hometrail, may break it and start ****storms when Banshee tells them theyīre out of Warranty ...
    The intended Use of the Rune is Trail/AM/Enduro - not Bikepark-Only. If you want that thereīs the Scythe, or maybe a KS-Link Scythe in the Future, or the Legend, or the Wildcard.

  12. #1212
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    If you want a bike to ride all mountain, enduro and the odd days XC or bikepark then the Rune V2 is a great opton.
    This is exactly what I wanted in a bike and the Rune was the best bike for this category. I do tend to do a bit of park riding, but on more 'flow' style trails where the Rune really shines. I have a purpose built DH bike for the more serious side of things and there is no way my lightish AM built would hold up to - and whats the piont of a DH orientated Rune build - you lose everything good about the bike.

  13. #1213
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    Picked up my Rune yesterday - very happy bunny so far.



    Here is a link to a thread on Retrobike with lots of pics etc.

    It's black, long, low and slack - my 2013 Banshee Rune V2 | Retrobike

    Just need to hurry up and get it built now!

  14. #1214
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    During sag tuning have founded that Rune V.2 could be mounted with 222*70mm shock. Rear travel should be 178mm, BB height can be adjusted by droputs in slacker position. Picture shows measurement between shock and seat tube 8mm space(6 mm hex for scale) and between seat tube and rear triangle 10-11mm space.
    What do you thinking about it?


  15. #1215
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    hummm you can compensate for changes in the static geometry (the numbers you measure when not riding the bike), changing the length of the shock will also affect the leverage ratio curve. This could lead to drastic changes in the dynamic geometry of the bike...
    This could lead to poor handling and less control. Increasing the shock length will decrease your leverage ratio (at least during the first inches of travel. I don't know how the rest of the curve behaves). No good for me...

  16. #1216
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    superQ, I have same things but maybe builttoride can exactly clarify this issue?

  17. #1217
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    I would definitely not recommend running a 222/70 shock on the rune V2 as it will not only upset the linkage kinematics and frame geometry to result in poor performance, but it will aso load the frame in ways it was not designed for which could cause failures. Running any shock size other than the specified length will viod warranty for these reasons.
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  18. #1218
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    I really don't understand why you want to fit a longer shock...if you want to have a longer travel bike, just buy a longer travel bike, it will have better performance than a "modified" rune

  19. #1219
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    My Rune is all finsihed now and has been on a couple of rides and so far I'm really happy with it. The rear end generates a whole lot of grip compared to my SX when climbing and is great fun descending. I'll get some pics up later.

    My only issue with ot so far has been installing my chain dervice and cranks. I run an E13 LG1 Trail chain device with Atlas AM cranks and had loads of issues with the cranks / chainring bottoming out in the back plate of the chain dervice. I have filed the granny ring tabs down as much as I can and I was still getting the same issue. In the end I moved the bottom bracket spacer over from the none drive side to the drive side. This has resolved the issue but given me a not so great chainline.

    Any advice on what others have done would be appreciated. My plan in the future is to dicth the full chain device for a direct mount top guide, a thick thin chainring and a clutch mech. However in the short term, I woud like to improve my chain line.

    The issue that I can see is that the ISCG05 tabs sit right in the edge of the BB whereas the old ISCG tabs on my SX trail sat back around 2.5mm. I know that its not Banshee's fault that the industry has moved to the newer standard.

  20. #1220
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    Carefully hone down the ISCG-Tabs till they are nearly flush to the Plate, which is about 2,5 - 3 mm. Done this on my Spitfire. Itīs easier to space outwards if necessary than inwards ...

  21. #1221
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    Quote Originally Posted by el_guillyt View Post
    I really don't understand why you want to fit a longer shock...if you want to have a longer travel bike, just buy a longer travel bike, it will have better performance than a "modified" rune
    I do not want to put into Rune other shock, it's only my observation of possibility to do this.

  22. #1222
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    What pressure do you recommend on the Float CTD for a 82-85 kg guy + equipment?

    I have between 25-30% of sag and the rear shock feels harsh compared to my V1 Spitfire...

  23. #1223
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Carefully hone down the ISCG-Tabs till they are nearly flush to the Plate, which is about 2,5 - 3 mm. Done this on my Spitfire. Itīs easier to space outwards if necessary than inwards ...
    I thought about that but the tabs don't seem that thick and I was worried that a knock to the chain device could damage them and that my warranty would be invalidated if I filed them down.

    Here are a couple of pics of the finished bike.











    Overall I'm very happy, just need to sort out the chaining issues. The other slight snag is the rear hub; when it was run as a QR one it was mega smooth and spun for ages but since swapping it to a 142x12mm bolt through, to get rid of the play it needs nipping up quite a lot and doesn't spin as well and the bearings feel ever so slightly notchy. I'm hoping that a bit of fiddling and it'll be nice and smooth again.

  24. #1224
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    with substantial money spent on a custom built Rune, do you guys think a 30 pound Rune is within reason? trying to make it as 'trail bike' friendly for all around climbing and riding, we know how it descends. lightish wheels (Arch's etc) and carefully chosen spec? it's just that some seem to be coming in around 35 and can't shave 5 pounds while the Pinkbike tester was 31 and change and could easily lose a pound or more off that build.

  25. #1225
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    Quote Originally Posted by cunningstunts View Post
    with substantial money spent on a custom built Rune, do you guys think a 30 pound Rune is within reason? trying to make it as 'trail bike' friendly for all around climbing and riding, we know how it descends. lightish wheels (Arch's etc) and carefully chosen spec? it's just that some seem to be coming in around 35 and can't shave 5 pounds while the Pinkbike tester was 31 and change and could easily lose a pound or more off that build.
    Mine weighs in at 33lbs. If I wanted to trim weight off it I would consider losing the coil 36's, the full chain guide, a lighter cassette (its only an SLX), the Answer bars are quite portly so maybe some carbon ones and ditch the Reverb and Charge Knife for an I beam post with a I-Fly saddle. The Cane Creek shock is also a fair bit heavier than the Fox CTD. The ano frame is lighter than the painted ones too.

    Personally I wouldn't lose the dropper or my coil forks because they work so well. I'd weight is your key driver, would you be better looking at the Spitfire?

  26. #1226
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    It can definitely be done. I imagine an ano frame w/ a light wheelset, light tires, rock shox pike, and sram xx1 would tip the scales at sub 30 no problem. The spitfire frame is only about .5 lb lighter, and there's quite a few sub30 Spittys that have been posted.

  27. #1227
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    My medium V2 build is here My medium V2 build is here pinkbike.com/photo/9255437/ just add www then .

    29 lb 15oz

  28. #1228
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    For a 5'6 rider. Can he get away with medium frame and 35mm stem?
    or small frame with 50mm will be better fit? Thanks

  29. #1229
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    To give you an idea, I'm 5.8 and riding a large with 30mm stem and fits perfect, from my experience and my personal preferences I would recommend a medium, I used to ride mediums but, I always felt a bit stucked, and start to thing to better go for a larger bike, and with this large rune I just spotted on!

  30. #1230
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    I'm 5 11 and 1/2 and ride a large with a 50mm stem and 780mm bars. Technically I am just in the limit for what many people say or a medium but I find them too short especially now teat tubes are getting steeper.

    My previous bike was a medium SX Trail and the Rune fits much better. Despite being heavier I was faster in the combs on my local route which I think is due to better traction and having more to breath and move about.

  31. #1231
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    The Rune V2 can cope with the odd park day...
    Agreed!

    (me in Saalbach, Austria).

    Guys, do you have any recommendations for a reasonably priced coil shock for the Rune V2? I'd like to go easy on the CTD and use something more suitable for the occasional park rides.

  32. #1232
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    Quote Originally Posted by eightyfive View Post
    For a 5'6 rider. Can he get away with medium frame and 35mm stem?
    or small frame with 50mm will be better fit? Thanks
    I'm 5'7 (172cm) on M with 40mm stem and 740mm bars.
    Was riding 50mm stem, now find the 40mm feels better in steeper fast technical stuff.

    I wouldn't change to S. If your torso and arms are long with short legs (like me!), and you like short stem and long bike for descending then you'd probably just get away with a M.
    Must be a limit and people riding S? We all seem to be erring on the larger sizes where possible..

  33. #1233
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    Hi everyone, im pretty much sold on getting a Rune. I test rode a large recently but will get an XL (im 189cm)

    However, can you tell me about linkage bearings as running costs are a big deal for me?

    Have you experienced any play?
    are replacement bearings easy to get hold of and cheap? (I believe they're 6600 so should be easy)
    can you replace bearings easily (I have a bearing press) i.e. do you need to remove the rear triangle, front mech
    how many different sizes of bearings are there? plus what are the bearing numbers/bore diameters?

    many thanks

  34. #1234
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    Changed up a few things. Swapped out the Straitline stem, RF Atlas bars, and the 28T Bling for Some RF SIXC carbon handlebars, Atlas stem and a 30T Bling ring. Also did a full overhaul on the bike. Riding over the wet winters we have here in Oregon is killer on bearings and such. Fresh and ready for Summer. Loving this bike. A few pics from yesterday:

















  35. #1235
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    Why did you swap out your stems?


    looks good!

  36. #1236
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    anybody know what the shock bolts and dropouts are supposed to be torqued to thanks

  37. #1237
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    12Nm for dropout bolts and rear shock bolt
    10Nm for DT shock mount bolt
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  38. #1238
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    12Nm for dropout bolts and rear shock bolt
    10Nm for DT shock mount bolt
    thank you

  39. #1239
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    Hey Darkslide, are there any chain rub issues with the 28t Bling Ring? I've been thinking about that same set up(or maybe 26t) with an MRP Micro, but those chainstays are so low. Can you even fit a chain guide under there?

  40. #1240
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  41. #1241
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amukinado View Post
    What pressure do you recommend on the Float CTD for a 82-85 kg guy + equipment?

    I have between 25-30% of sag and the rear shock feels harsh compared to my V1 Spitfire...
    I'm around 190lb (~86 kg) ride weight and I originally set my CTD shock at 270psi (!!) to get the correct indicated sag, but that was way too harsh. I now ride between 235-250psi (more frequently at the lower pressure unless I'm riding at the bike parks), and the bike is nice and smoove. There may have been some break-in required. I haven't measured the sag recently at that setting, but I don't feel like I've lost too much travel, and there's virtually no bob even climbing in the descend mode.

  42. #1242
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    Anyone looking for a xl black ano frame with CCDB and 650 dropouts let me know. Frame is still brand new.Just received my hospital bill.

  43. #1243
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    12Nm for dropout bolts and rear shock bolt
    10Nm for DT shock mount bolt
    Did this change Keith? I am pretty sure there is another post where you had stated 16nm for the rear shock bolt and 8nm for the front shock bolt.


    This post

    "
    Sorry, I must have been really tired when I wrote that. max 15Nm for the back 8mm shock bolt into RT, 8Nm for front 8mm shock axle... corrected that now. Thanks for questioning!



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  44. #1244
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    Re: Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

    XL. Me likes. Best bike I've had for climbing. 150mm rear end. King on Flow ex. Sent fork and shock to Avy. 36.5 pounds. I'm 230+ so I wasn't really trying to keep the weight down.

    Sent from my phablet with Tapatalk 2
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-uploadfromtaptalk1373844835924.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-uploadfromtaptalk1373844858627.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-uploadfromtaptalk1373844871958.jpg  


  45. #1245
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Did this change Keith? I am pretty sure there is another post where you had stated 16nm for the rear shock bolt and 8nm for the front shock bolt.


    This post

    "
    Sorry, I must have been really tired when I wrote that. max 15Nm for the back 8mm shock bolt into RT, 8Nm for front 8mm shock axle... corrected that now. Thanks for questioning!
    The material has changed to a harder steel for the front shock bolt so it can take a little more torque to be a bit more secure. While the rear shock bolt can take 15Nm max, 12Nm is what I run and recommend.

    I also recommend running temp loctite on all bolts to prevent them loosening on the trail. Some PTFE tape wrapped round the thread does a similar job but is a little more fiddly.
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  46. #1246
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    The material has changed to a harder steel for the front shock bolt so it can take a little more torque to be a bit more secure. While the rear shock bolt can take 15Nm max, 12Nm is what I run and recommend.

    I also recommend running temp loctite on all bolts to prevent them loosening on the trail. Some PTFE tape wrapped round the thread does a similar job but is a little more fiddly.
    Keith, it would be really cool if such (important) infos about eg. torque for bolt xy could be found on the banshee sites aswell (maybe in the empty FAQ section?) for at least the newer bikes, e.g. spitty, rune, prime. Would it be possible to add it ?

  47. #1247
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkey View Post
    Keith, it would be really cool if such (important) infos about eg. torque for bolt xy could be found on the banshee sites aswell (maybe in the empty FAQ section?) for at least the newer bikes, e.g. spitty, rune, prime. Would it be possible to add it ?
    We are working on this for our new website...
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  48. #1248
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    We are working on this for our new website...
    perfect, thx!

  49. #1249
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    Question to all CCDBA users:
    I finally got CCDB Air for my Rune. I am easily 220 lbs with gear and like to push it on the climbs. In order to get the correct SAG I had to put approx. 160psi in the shock. Then I had to max the LSC to get rid of some of that annoying bobbing.

    Would installing the volume reducer change the way the shock behaves under pedalling power?

  50. #1250
    ptd
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    Quote Originally Posted by XavM View Post
    Question to all CCDBA users:
    I finally got CCDB Air for my Rune. I am easily 220 lbs with gear and like to push it on the climbs. In order to get the correct SAG I had to put approx. 160psi in the shock. Then I had to max the LSC to get rid of some of that annoying bobbing.

    Would installing the volume reducer change the way the shock behaves under pedalling power?
    Cane Creek have 'The Lounge' where you can post your settings etc and Cane Creek will respond directly, great getting feedback from them.
    The Lounge | Rider Forums | Banshee

    If you are setting LSC fully closed with the sag set correctly as you said then Cane Creek might suggest the new DBAir CS (climb switch)!
    Adding a volume reducer is meant to firm up the suspension towards the end of stroke I think rather than beginning for pedalling...

    How does the bike feel with LSC at max when descending?
    I added one or two clicks of LSC from the base tune (10 from open Cane Creek DBAIR Suspension Base Tunes) and that was enough, still bobs a bit but I can live with it.

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