Odd the 26x2.4 Trailking was huge compared to everything else I have run. I destroyed 2(gutted the sidewalls), my friend destroyed 2(torn bead and a larger puncture) and another friend destroyed 1(bead tore out) all in a few months. TBH I really liked the tire in back but they have a high failure record here.
I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb
Same as @dirtrider76 here. I really like the Trail King due to its massive dimension and its awesome grip on dry ground. However, the ripped sidewalls became a no-no for me.
I switched to High Roller II. The tire is smaller with its 2.3 but I've been riding it through the Autumn/Winter and absolutely LOVE it (fairly wet conditions in west germany here, not so much snow). I'm riding it as a front and rear tire.
Odd the 26x2.4 Trailking was huge compared to everything else I have run. I destroyed 2(gutted the sidewalls), my friend destroyed 2(torn bead and a larger puncture) and another friend destroyed 1(bead tore out) all in a few months. TBH I really liked the tire in back but they have a high failure record here.
Hi dirtrider76
Were they the ProTection with Apex version?
off topic, but that mural in the background looks a hell of a lot like this - same artist? Instagram
also, how do you find arch ex rims? I've always gone with flows, but do you find arches are strong enough?
Hi Macomer about OT: it could be , the pictures is from belgium famous writer ROA ( one out of The top fine world writer ). He did it in my city for a sociale Project. End OT
About arch ex, i Ran them fine but i' m looking for something wide to pur to the front.
Is it easy to throw around in the air? Does manual well? Is it playfull in general? I was wondering since i´ll might go to squamish for a year, and want something that climbs well, but is pure fun on the downs. Plus i will try to go to whistler af often as possible, where i probably ride the more flowy trails with berms and jumps.
Hi,s
My Rune has the cane creek db shock and a 160 pike up front.I find this set up to be very easy to adjust to ultra plush for dh ridding or adding some psi and being able to pop off features. This is the most stable bike I've ever been on as well as the stiffest. I attribute a lot of it great abilities to awesome suspension.
What are my options for replacing the 142x12 bolt through axle with a tool free version?
Something that will screw into the drive side dropout ok, but doesn't need an allen key or the second bolt inserting?
What are my options for replacing the 142x12 bolt through axle with a tool free version?
Something that will screw into the drive side dropout ok, but doesn't need an allen key or the second bolt inserting?
What are my options for replacing the 142x12 bolt through axle with a tool free version?
Something that will screw into the drive side dropout ok, but doesn't need an allen key or the second bolt inserting?
Finally I've made the switch to the 650b wheels.
DT Swiss EX471 rims on 350 hubs.
Also switched to Schwalbe tires, just to compare with the Maxxis I've been using so far.
And the ´13 Monarch+ shock was upgraded to a ´14 version from a Nomad. Tuning is now a ML, rather than the MM on the previous
Here are some pics.
Only have 2 trips on the bike (~40km) so no real conclusions on the upgrade...
The bike seems to roll a litle bit better on rocky sections but grip seems as good as before.
The Debonair is really effective and the ML tune is much better, plusher and more sensitive, allowing better use of available shock travel.
Good looking rig. How do you like that Nevegal on the rear and are you running it tubeless?
Nevegal Prox is a really good allrounder. Its much better at rolling than the old Nevegal and has good grip at angles. Its tough and I'm using it tubeless with no issues at all. Very underrated tyre IMO, good price though!
I too am 5'11" (33.5" inseam) and rode a medium V1 with a 65mm stem which I always found a little cramped for general AM duties. I couldnt decide between M and L for my V2. Going by the numbers I thought the V2 Large might be a little long for me but I went with it, and have to say its perfect. The top tube really doesnt feel too long. I swapped out my stem to a 50mm and my bar to a 760mm and its dialled. The only thing I'd say is if you run a dropper post check how much post you need exposed. I have a 6" KS post and only have about 1" of post showing between the frame clamp and the post's collar. If you have shorter legs this may be a problem meaning you'd have to run a post with less drop.
I'll stick up some pics of my build later. Hope this helps. The bike is great btw, rips DH and climbs way nicer than the V1.
Hmmm this has me thinking....I'm riding a V1 and I have been looking at upgrading to a V2. Could you elaborate on the climbing differences between V1 and V2? I have also been trying to figure out if a L or XL is right for me; I am 6'2" and have been riding a V1 size L and like it...part of me thinks the XL would fit great and part of me is nervous it would feel too big and clunky.
Rode with my Marz 350ncr last night. Unfortunately terrible conditions. Typical British winter really, slop and slime, so it was hard to find anywhere that I would notice the new forks. On the fastest/most hardpacked and rooty descent I could feel the forks working hard below me. The tracked extremely well and felt very stiff, no noticeable flex. They felt smooth and controlled, but I'm still playing around with pressures to work out what PSI to use - I wish manufacturers would install an oring on the stanchions by default!
I have a mini DH race on Sunday, so hope they perform equally well there
On another note, the Banshee has developed a load of creaking. Moving the back wheel left/right and the whole backend is creaking? I will strip down the linkages on Sat and see if it goes - anyone else had this? Hopefully not bearings already (4.5mths old)
Stripping the frame down, cleaning everything well, greasing all axles and then reassembling with correct torque and your creak will almost certainly dissapear.
I'm 5'11" with large frame and any more than 125mm would be too long. You'll need about 3" extra from the base of the steady post for the connectamajig and a bit of Hose to reach to the stealth hole
The axles in the upper pivot, mine is in pretty tight (seattube end). Theres nothing different to the other end is there? ie just undo screws and pull out. Any tips? Leave the bolt in a fair bit and give that a whack? I've sprayed GT85 around and will leave overnight now. On first inspection 1 of the 2 bearings on other end appears rough. Not good after 4 months use :-[
I'm 5'11" with large frame and any more than 125mm would be too long. You'll need about 3" extra from the base of the steady post for the connectamajig and a bit of Hose to reach to the stealth hole
Doh. Stripped all the pivots, greased the bearings (needed it, and some will need replacing soon). Still creaking. Tightened and cleaned shock bolt, still creaking. Rear dropouts next. One of the bolts was very loose!! great! why didnt I start there lol! Threadlocked now
My first upgrades (used wheelset and bars + new Pike, brakes and swap to 1x drivetrain) since building this bike 5 years ago and finally under 30lbs even with the coil shock; can't wait to get it on the trail!
Edit: sorry should I have posted this in the V1 thread
I am thinking about getting a monarch plus for the rune and read here that the M/L tune is the one to get. What would be the flaws of going with a M/M? I ask because there is one for sale locally. Thanks
I am thinking about getting a monarch plus for the rune and read here that the M/L tune is the one to get. What would be the flaws of going with a M/M? I ask because there is one for sale locally. Thanks
I run M/M for some Months but never been able To fine tune it. It worked Well but Even with the recommended sag or higher always 1.5 cm of travel were unused.
I run M/M for some Months but never been able To fine tune it. It worked Well but Even with the recommended sag or higher always 1.5 cm of travel were unused.
When it didn't use full travel, was it during general trail riding or also jumps and drops?
Here's a pic of my Rune, almost finished. Just installed Guide RS brakes and still need to trim the cables. The build isn't too fancy, curious to see how these Race Face turbines hold up. I ordered decals from Slik in "Hope tech Purple" but it was just too much. So I just left the head tube and seat tube badge stickers on.
Thanks! First ride yesterday in a mix of grippy ice and snow but with some completely dry sections. Could never get flat out due to the ice but it was a good taste. The Rune felt intuitive right away, super excited!
I am thinking about getting a monarch plus for the rune and read here that the M/L tune is the one to get. What would be the flaws of going with a M/M? I ask because there is one for sale locally. Thanks
I had a 2013 M/M Monarch+ until recently. It felt a little harsh on compression and couldn't get correct sag:
- when sag was set to ~30%, couldn't get full travel;
- when sag was 35~40%, harshness wasn't as noticeable and could get full travel, but geometry was totally out (most notecible when climbing, seat to far back to control the front end or to have a nice pedaling position).
About 6 months ago I sent the shock to my LBS for a reshimming. It was way plusher and sag was easier to set. Nonethelss I felt that it could be improved, there was a small spiking mid travel that made me unconfortable going down swiftly but when going really fast I was good (no spiking).
At he beginning of the year I got a 2015 Monarch+ Debonair from a Nomad II. The base tune is a M/L. Much better. No more spiking or harshness. I can get the same sag that on the reshimmed '13 Monarch+ with less 10psi on the chamber. Also the Debonair is more sensible to small bumps, increasing traction when climbing.
So my experience is that the M/L is better suited to the Rune. You can get away with an M/M and if you are able to (or are intending to) reshimm it.
That said, my "combat" weight (with all the gear) is around 95Kg. I guess a much ligther rider could eventually get away with a M/M tune but can't confirm that...
Awesome, thanks! That answers my questions. Always seems like the deals on parts/components never show up on the the specs you actually need, always close but not quite!
Awesome, thanks! That answers my questions. Always seems like the deals on parts/components never show up on the the specs you actually need, always close but not quite!
Well, kinda, isn't it? If you look a little you may find a deal on the perfect Monarch+ for the Rune. Apparently some SC Nomad II owners prefer to upgrade (to a CCDB maybe?) the stock shock. That how I got the Debonair! And recently there was an auction on eb for a Vivid, also from a Nomad and also M/L tune.
I had a 2013 M/M Monarch+ until recently. It felt a little harsh on compression and couldn't get correct sag:
- when sag was set to ~30%, couldn't get full travel;
- when sag was 35~40%, harshness wasn't as noticeable and could get full travel, but geometry was totally out (most notecible when climbing, seat to far back to control the front end or to have a nice pedaling position).
About 6 months ago I sent the shock to my LBS for a reshimming. It was way plusher and sag was easier to set. Nonethelss I felt that it could be improved, there was a small spiking mid travel that made me unconfortable going down swiftly but when going really fast I was good (no spiking).
At he beginning of the year I got a 2015 Monarch+ Debonair from a Nomad II. The base tune is a M/L. Much better. No more spiking or harshness. I can get the same sag that on the reshimmed '13 Monarch+ with less 10psi on the chamber. Also the Debonair is more sensible to small bumps, increasing traction when climbing.
So my experience is that the M/L is better suited to the Rune. You can get away with an M/M and if you are able to (or are intending to) reshimm it.
That said, my "combat" weight (with all the gear) is around 95Kg. I guess a much ligther rider could eventually get away with a M/M tune but can't confirm that...
By the way, nice build
For the record: M/L means medium rebound, low comp?
Need some help guys. I'm planing to upgrade my spitfirev2 to Rune v2 in near future, since I need a bit more of a bike. Now what i'd like to know is, how much rear tire clearance would i have with 650b HR2/minion 2,3/2,4 or 650b Schwalbe MM 2,35, using 26" dropouts in slackest/lowest position. IS that even an option? If anyone has tried that or is running that combo, could you please measure the clearance or take some photos of the rear?
I don't have pics but I can tell you that most 2.3s don't fit, I have tried MM's and Nobby's at 2.3, they are a definite no go. I only ever ran 2.2 hans d's successfully. I finally switched my drop outs.
Need some help guys. I'm planing to upgrade my spitfirev2 to Rune v2 in near future, since I need a bit more of a bike. Now what i'd like to know is, how much rear tire clearance would i have with 650b HR2/minion 2,3/2,4 or 650b Schwalbe MM 2,35, using 26" dropouts in slackest/lowest position. IS that even an option? If anyone has tried that or is running that combo, could you please measure the clearance or take some photos of the rear?
With 26 dropouts, my configuratikn too, you can run up to a 57etro tyre. Very Well with Low set up and acceptable , depending on your mad condition, in neutral but high.
I' m running hd and nn with 2.25 with but propably hrii 2 3 can run too.
Regardless the tyre size i love the short armi that 26 dropouts give.
Need some help guys. I'm planing to upgrade my spitfirev2 to Rune v2 in near future, since I need a bit more of a bike. Now what i'd like to know is, how much rear tire clearance would i have with 650b HR2/minion 2,3/2,4 or 650b Schwalbe MM 2,35, using 26" dropouts in slackest/lowest position. IS that even an option? If anyone has tried that or is running that combo, could you please measure the clearance or take some photos of the rear?
I can tell you that 650b Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2,35 on EX471 rims won't fit and will rub the bridge between the chainstays. So I doubt that the Magic Mary will fit (awsome tire, by the way!).
I've also tried a Continental Mountain Kin II 2,4. On the EX471 rim it didn't fit either, but oddly enough, it did fit on a DT Swiss M1900 rear wheel. Didn't actually ride this configuration since it was a wheel from a friend.
So I guess that not only the tire width matters, also the rim width will have a role on fitting.
Hope that helps.
Cheers.
So all in all, fitting a big 650b tire in 26" dropouts is a no go. Even if it fits it's to tight of a fit i gues.
Thanks for replays and your help guys.
So all in all, fitting a big 650b tire in 26" dropouts is a no go. Even if it fits it's to tight of a fit i gues.
Thanks for replays and your help guys.
If you like big tires you are right but std rear tyre.
Originally Posted by kinserk
So all in all, fitting a big 650b tire in 26" dropouts is a no go. Even if it fits it's to tight of a fit i gues.
Thanks for replays and your help guys.
I'm using a 650b 2.25 Hans Dampf with 26" drop outs using Flow EX's.....no issues, not sure how much difference moving to a 2.35 would make, I'm close to the bridge between the chainstays (but easily clearing), not the sides, so can't see increasing the width by .1 would affect that?
I'm using a 650b 2.25 Hans Dampf with 26" drop outs using Flow EX's.....no issues, not sure how much difference moving to a 2.35 would make, I'm close to the bridge between the chainstays (but easily clearing), not the sides, so can't see increasing the width by .1 would affect that?
Suppose I could also question how a 2.25 woul fit, since its only a .1' difference...
Not trying to pick a fight and I dont want to seem rude.
But to fit the 2,35 Hans Dampf I had to offset the rim away from the drive side, since the tire would actually block on the reinforcement vertical plate between the chainstays and the upper (brake?) stays on the drive side.
It seemed to me the wheel would fit that way, but as you can see in the photo bellow, I was wrong...
(note: this was after a 15km ride on a clear day, no mud involved)
I tried searching for this answer but haven't been able to find it.
I'm having issues with my CCDB air and am considering swapping for a Float X. For you Float X riders, what tune did you get? Do you have the code from the shock?
Is there anyone who uses the Shimano Saint chainguide on his Rune? I am currently using Silent Guide with a 34t chainring, but it can be adjusted properly because it hits the frame. I a am trying to get a solution to this chainguide problem. Any help welcome
Suppose I could also question how a 2.25 woul fit, since its only a .1' difference...
Not trying to pick a fight and I dont want to seem rude.
But to fit the 2,35 Hans Dampf I had to offset the rim away from the drive side, since the tire would actually block on the reinforcement vertical plate between the chainstays and the upper (brake?) stays on the drive side.
It seemed to me the wheel would fit that way, but as you can see in the photo bellow, I was wrong...
(note: this was after a 15km ride on a clear day, no mud involved)
Cheers
uf that's not good. in which dropout setting was this? low-med-high?
Is there anyone who uses the Shimano Saint chainguide on his Rune? I am currently using Silent Guide with a 34t chainring, but it can be adjusted properly because it hits the frame. I a am trying to get a solution to this chainguide problem. Any help welcome
I have the Saint guide on the Rune. No problems of any kind, works perfectly!
Hi Guys, I am hoping that someone can help me out. Just had the bearings on my Rune V2 done at the LBS and have just started to rebuild it and noticed that the upper linkage is displaying an "R" on the Left-hand side of the frame.
I'm guessing this means it is around the wrong way from before, but the part looks completely symmetrical in every way so is there any need to take it out and turn it around or are my eyes playing tricks on me and its not symmetrical??
Thanks both! Now to finish rebuilding! (Great bike Keith BTW) - looking forward to putting a Rockshox Monarch Debonair on there (from a mates new Nomad C - some people have no taste) and pleased to hear it should be the right tune.
I did look to see if the white decals on the 2013 Frame can be removed easily to be replaced with stealth black ones but didn't see a definitive answer? It would look totally sweet like that.
I did that with my 2013 Spitfire. It had white painted emblems on it. I used a product called Airplane Stripper. I sprayed it on the white emblems and let it sit for about 15 minutes. Then I wiped and scraped with cardboard or soft plastic to remove the white paint. My frame is anodized which I was told is tougher than powder coating. Nothing happened to the anodizing whatsoever, it was fine.
I hope this helps. I did it for the stealth black too. It looks awesome!
Thanks both! Now to finish rebuilding! (Great bike Keith BTW) - looking forward to putting a Rockshox Monarch Debonair on there (from a mates new Nomad C - some people have no taste) and pleased to hear it should be the right tune.
I did look to see if the white decals on the 2013 Frame can be removed easily to be replaced with stealth black ones but didn't see a definitive answer? It would look totally sweet like that.
Just remember that there is more to a tune than the damping settings. TheNomad shock will likely have different internal volume spacers also for the shock to work well with it as the nomad has the opposite shape leverage curve to rune as seen in attached.
I personally believe that debonair shocks are primarily designed to improve performance of bikes like the nomad which have low initial leverage to help make them more supple at start of travel, and then compensate for the high leverage mid stroke to make the bike more supportive in this range.
The rune is the opposite so will achieve the same sort of thing as a debonair shock on a nomad with a normal shock. Some may say this was a result of a better linkage...
It's not to say a debonair shock will not work with our bikes, but swapping a tuned nomad shock onto a rune will likely feel a bit weird.
I run a custom tuned Bos Vip'R on there at the moment, it is a good shock, was a great shock, but its had a hammering and even after a full service I just don't feel I'm getting the same responsiveness from it that I was. Hence when I had a good offer on the Debonair I thought I would go for it, but I don't want to pay for another custom tune on top of everything else. Maybe I'll stick with the Bos and have a play with the settings, see if I can improve it. Any experience with the Bos Vip'R Keith?
Just remember that there is more to a tune than the damping settings. TheNomad shock will likely have different internal volume spacers also for the shock to work well with it as the nomad has the opposite shape leverage curve to rune as seen in attached.
I personally believe that debonair shocks are primarily designed to improve performance of bikes like the nomad which have low initial leverage to help make them more supple at start of travel, and then compensate for the high leverage mid stroke to make the bike more supportive in this range.
The rune is the opposite so will achieve the same sort of thing as a debonair shock on a nomad with a normal shock. Some may say this was a result of a better linkage...
It's not to say a debonair shock will not work with our bikes, but swapping a tuned nomad shock onto a rune will likely feel a bit weird.
I've got a debonair from a Nomad II for almost two months.
My opinion is it works great with the Rune.
The shock I got didn't have any volume reducers on the air chamber.
I've put 3 bands from the rockshox air volume kit, just to see the difference.
And it is harder to get full travel (obviously) and really, reducing the air volume is not necessary.
Cheeers
I run a custom tuned Bos Vip'R on there at the moment, it is a good shock, was a great shock, but its had a hammering and even after a full service I just don't feel I'm getting the same responsiveness from it that I was. Hence when I had a good offer on the Debonair I thought I would go for it, but I don't want to pay for another custom tune on top of everything else. Maybe I'll stick with the Bos and have a play with the settings, see if I can improve it. Any experience with the Bos Vip'R Keith?
Im riding Vipr on Rune and it feels good. I wonder where did you serve the shock and how it was customised unless it is made in factory or authorized service centre?
I've got a debonair from a Nomad II for almost two months.
My opinion is it works great with the Rune.
The shock I got didn't have any volume reducers on the air chamber.
I've put 3 bands from the rockshox air volume kit, just to see the difference.
And it is harder to get full travel (obviously) and really, reducing the air volume is not necessary.
Cheeers
From the banshee website:
40x8mm shaft end, 25.4x8mm reservoir end
However, there is no option for 25,4x8mm on the link you posted... out of stock maybe?
Cheers
From the banshee website:
40x8mm shaft end, 25.4x8mm reservoir end
However, there is no option for 25,4x8mm on the link you posted... out of stock maybe?
Cheers
I've got a 2015 Med Rune, with only a half dozen rides on it. It's too small for me
I want to swap someone for their large frame. It can be a 2013, or 2014, and I'll take any color. If the frames are in similar shape, I'll through in some money to make it worth someone's while.
The frame is black, with white accents. Has three very small scratches, and other than that looks brand new.
If no one wants to swap, I'm also willing to part with it for $1250 with CCDBair+
Odd it doesn't look small...your seat post still has room to come up. What's wrong with it. I actually do not have one of these bikes either just curious why you think it's too small
Odd it doesn't look small...your seat post still has room to come up. What's wrong with it. I actually do not have one of these bikes either just curious why you think it's too small
The Rune could benefit for some more reach. I am 185 cm and consider going XL on the slightly longer Spitfire. (I am now on an L)
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Originally Posted by krj
