• 03-30-2013
    LyNx
    I've got an "Official" 30-9 - 31.6mm shim and I can tell you, it ain't much more than what I suggested you do, only additional thing it has a lip so it won't slip down into the frame and that's not a problem with a dropper post since you won't be raising and lowering the post into the frame. Just cut the shim the entire height/length of the alu can so it doesn't quite wrap the entire way around the post and touch and you'll be golden.

    Can't see Keith suggesting anything different TBH, only other option would be to send it back if it annoys you that much and to me that's a bit over the top. Your post has tolerances, the frame has tolerances, both happen to be to the far end of the those tolerance specs and hence the fit is very loose - ever consider that your post is on the thin side of the tolerances and part of the problem? May not be what you want to here, but it's the honesty of it all.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MindPatterns View Post
    Well, tbh, I'd hate to use a hack like this on a € 1600,- brand new bike frame, and was hoping there is some kind of official statement from Keith - like some kind of best partice what would work best with the frame (carbon paste, shim etc.).
    It's just a little meh. since the frame rides so damn well. Can't wait to swing my legs over it again! :)
    Not sure about the shim and the forces that usually apply to a seat post in a seat tube though - any chance something might break here by bad luck?

  • 03-30-2013
    el_guillyt
    1 Attachment(s)
    Re: Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    An action shot from this morning, the shock is going smoother every ride and after this ride which was 3 huge rockgardens the feeling is very plushy but without loosing the pedaling performance
  • 03-30-2013
    darkslide18
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MindPatterns View Post
    Well, tbh, I'd hate to use a hack like this on a € 1600,- brand new bike frame, and was hoping there is some kind of official statement from Keith - like some kind of best partice what would work best with the frame (carbon paste, shim etc.).
    It's just a little meh. since the frame rides so damn well. Can't wait to swing my legs over it again! :)
    Not sure about the shim and the forces that usually apply to a seat post in a seat tube though - any chance something might break here by bad luck?

    Dude, people have been shimming seat posts since cave men wore wooden underwear. I wouldn't worry about it. Shim the sucker and ride it. With a dropper post you wont even know it is there.
  • 03-30-2013
    darkslide18
    4 Attachment(s)
    All I can really say about my V2 is it gives me a **** eating grin. I cant think of a higher praise than that. A few shots from today out at Sandy Ridge. The trails were perfect.
  • 03-31-2013
    qbert2000
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MindPatterns View Post
    Well, tbh, I'd hate to use a hack like this on a € 1600,- brand new bike frame, and was hoping there is some kind of official statement from Keith - like some kind of best partice what would work best with the frame (carbon paste, shim etc.).
    It's just a little meh. since the frame rides so damn well. Can't wait to swing my legs over it again! :)
    Not sure about the shim and the forces that usually apply to a seat post in a seat tube though - any chance something might break here by bad luck?

    good shims are 4" long. so make yours that long. it does suck to have to shim, but i don't know what else you can do.
  • 03-31-2013
    stunzeed
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    All I can really say about my V2 is it gives me a **** eating grin. I cant think of a higher praise than that. A few shots from today out at Sandy Ridge. The trails were perfect.

    Awesome Pics!

    I Have yet to take it out to Sandy, can't wait

    Rode Post Canyon yesterday and the bike straight slayed it - so much fun
  • 04-01-2013
    ironxcross
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MindPatterns View Post
    Well, tbh, I'd hate to use a hack like this on a € 1600,- brand new bike frame, and was hoping there is some kind of official statement from Keith - like some kind of best partice what would work best with the frame (carbon paste, shim etc.).
    It's just a little meh. since the frame rides so damn well. Can't wait to swing my legs over it again! :)
    Not sure about the shim and the forces that usually apply to a seat post in a seat tube though - any chance something might break here by bad luck?

    Agreed it makes me sad to spend a jaw dropping amount of money building my dream bike with all brand new parts, only to have to end up using a piece of soda can to get it running... but in the end, I doubt I'll care when I finally get it on the trail. Now if only my damn wheels would ship.
  • 04-04-2013
    Spooky221
    Well i finally took delivery of my Rune and got her built up last night, there is a bit of play between the seat post and tube but i think it'll be ok. I ordered it with the CCDB and like some other people on here I have a little play in the DU. I take it the distributor sort it out? Just a case of putting a new DU in or something?

    Pics to follow!
  • 04-04-2013
    MindPatterns
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Spooky221 View Post
    I take it the distributor sort it out? Just a case of putting a new DU in or something?

    Yeah, contact the CC distributor, they will take care of it!
  • 04-04-2013
    ptd
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MindPatterns View Post
    Yeah, contact the CC distributor, they will take care of it!

    What needs replacing - anyone know? 40mm shock pin, DU bush or shock eyelet?

    I replaced DU bush and shock pin last night just to see how that goes..
  • 04-05-2013
    Spooky221
    1 Attachment(s)
    Here she is! Took it out last night for a spin, well impressed with its climbing ability! Going to take a wee while to get used to, a lot longer and slacker than i'm used to, quite easy to push the front so might put it in neutral, rather like the low bb though! The shock is going to take some figuring out as well...bring it on!Attachment 787494
  • 04-07-2013
    dangerousmav
  • 04-08-2013
    JansonJanson
    some words on the other side considering the seat tube diameter,
    i got a KS LEV 150mm, using a tune würger, too.
    I put some carbon fibre assembly paste on the KS LEV, got the tune würger about 4nm and its bomb proof. Ridn it for about 1 Month and notihing slidin down.
    Maybe it is the combination of the Reverb with the Rune´s seattube.?#

    Got my Rune @ 30,55lbs, with the KS LEV, hope 2 get a RS LYrik solo air 170mm next month. With a little luck, maybe get the Rune under 30lbs :)
  • 04-08-2013
    hanson
    I wrapped my seatpost (ks lev) with 1 layer of tinfoil and it worked perfectly.
    Thats how small the difference between is. I had bit of play before and had to clamp
    the seatpost very hard to not have it slip. I'm now at 4Nm and no problem at all.

    Should not have to do this imo, but what the heck, it works :)
  • 04-08-2013
    ptd
    3 months of enjoyment, setting PBs everywhere - it's fast! :D
    Summary review is it's the best MTB I've owned in 20 years :thumbsup:
  • 04-09-2013
    juanbeegas
    Does anyone know how big of a difference the drop in chainstay is, compared to the previous version of the Rune? I have an E13 SRS+ 32t and it doesn't have any adjustability on the spacing of the lower roller and the thought that it might not fit my new frame, has been bugging me for a while.
  • 04-09-2013
    grazertourer
    Hi!

    I would like to add a little bit of progression to the Fox CTD of my Rune. Which of the following air spacers would you recommend? 0,2"^3, 0,4"^3 or 0,6"^3?

    Rider weight is 72kg (158,73lbs)
    I am currently riding the bike downhill with ~155psi at Trail+1 in order to not bottom out the rear shock far too often.

    Thanks :)
  • 04-09-2013
    Spooky221
    After riding the bike over the weekend I feel i have to echo PTD's comments, this bike is f*cking brilliant. I'm still not completely at 1 with it yet and have to tweak the shock (going to take time) yet I've KOM'd a fair few of my local runs on my first attempt...awesome. I'm really surprised at how well it climbs as well, even in the slackest setting. Nice 1 Keith!
  • 04-10-2013
    Weggla
    Just got my frame today. It's a yellow one. I'm sad to say, that the decals realy are a dark green colour.
    HOWEVER, Banshee didn't want to send the frame out due to this fact and to deliver a product that lives up to my expectations. The thing is my distributor requested the frame to be send out anyways. I don't blame my distributor as he only wished to supply me with a frame as fast as possible. And I certainly don't blame Banshee since they work on the problem and they intended to deliver a perfect product.
    For anyone who is interested and the ones stating that Banshee false advertised the decal colours:
    From what I've learned the decals were intended to be black but somehow reacted with the clear coat during the coating process causing it to turn into a dark greenish colour. This stuff does happen and especially in small series productions or when you try something new. Banshee is clearly working on a solution for this problem and I bet they will manage it fast. I contacted Banshee for some new decals so I could stick them over the green ones and they did not hesitate to send me those without charge.
    So thanks a bunch Banshee and good luck with overcoming this issue!

    The only thing I will mention here is that the prototype looked much better to my eye since it wasn't full of decals. I would consider just putting the brand and the framename (+ BOTS logo) on the Frame without the other decals on the next year's version of the Frame. But maybe that's just me.

    Edit:
    Oh and I do not have any seatpost or clamping issues, maybe I got lucky or that issue is solved.

    cheers
  • 04-10-2013
    eurospek
    ^ Good post, but I would stick with the dark green decals UNDER the clearcoat than dealing with pealing decals on top of the clearcoat.
  • 04-10-2013
    PSimpson7
    My yellow frame shipped on Monday. Cant wait for it to arrive. Will be intersting to see how the decals look. I hope they are black but can live with it if they are green.

    I have modified my build kit quite a bit just in case! otherwise I think the colours would have looked all over the shop.. especially with a white fork
  • 04-10-2013
    Colin+M
    My yellow Prime's decals where on top of the clear which is probably why they weren't green? I removed the chainstay and downtube decals as I felt it was a tad busy.
  • 04-11-2013
    builttoride
    The yellow frames are powdercoated, so the decals are baked in to the powdercoat (no clearcoat). On the yellow frames, the sample decals worked fine for us, but the production decals (which were meant to be identical) let the yellow colour bleed through slightly. We have found a solution for this now, but some distributors wanted the frames in a hurry to satisfy demand.
  • 04-11-2013
    bmxking45
    So I just ordered a full SRAM X9 Type 2 10SP drivetrain for my Rune V2 coming off X9 9Sp. I am hoping it quiets things down in the rear a bit through the chunk nad maybe even get rid of the "looseness" that I have described in other threads. Does anyone else run this setup and how has it treated you on your new Runes?

    HOLLA!!!
  • 04-11-2013
    rokesoke
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    What needs replacing - anyone know? 40mm shock pin, DU bush or shock eyelet?

    I replaced DU bush and shock pin last night just to see how that goes..

    You must replace this:


    I contacted the dealer and sent me new bushings. The problem was fixed.
  • 04-11-2013
    ptd
    Cool thanks.
    Here is the bushing website for some geekier reading
    The Range of NORGLIDE® and SOLGLIDE® Bearings | Saint-Gobain Performance Plastics | Bearings Group
  • 04-11-2013
    helidave
    Re: Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by bmxking45 View Post
    So I just ordered a full SRAM X9 Type 2 10SP drivetrain for my Rune V2 coming off X9 9Sp. I am hoping it quiets things down in the rear a bit through the chunk nad maybe even get rid of the "looseness" that I have described in other threads. Does anyone else run this setup and how has it treated you on your new Runes?

    HOLLA!!!

    I run 1x10 with the X9 type 2 and it's very quiet. No chainslap, no dropped chains.
  • 04-15-2013
    PSimpson7
    Mine arrived earlier!!

    progress so far!!:

  • 04-18-2013
    juanbeegas
    Anyone know which of the three sizes would fit the frame?

    Large: 24cm long x 10.5cm wide
    Medium: 24cm long x 9.5cm wide
    Small: 24cm long x 8.5cm wide



    Link
  • 04-18-2013
    builttoride
    It depends if those dimensions include the overlap of the velcro, but the perimiter of the chainstay is 10cm.

    Personally I highly recommend the cheaper, lighter, tougher and more effective option if using industrial strength sticky back velcro... like this Amazon.com: Velcro 1-Inch by 10-Feet Ultra-Mate Glue-on Strip, Black: Arts, Crafts & Sewing

    I've used this for years on numerous bikes and still haven't used up the roll.
  • 04-18-2013
    NoStyle
    Uhhh ... that´s a Nukeproof ... doesn´t fit at all ... :D
    I would go with the Velco Strips/Tapes. :thumbsup:
  • 04-18-2013
    DaWiseNuthatch
    AdrianoMTB, I see you're using a 30t up front, which is very nice for climbing, but, on the other hand, is it enough for riding flat terrain? Do you spin the cranks like crazy similar to those poor road race guys? :) Thank you!
  • 04-18-2013
    Hikers Only
    Is anyone using a rear shock other than the RP23 or CCDB air? Thinking of switch out the RP23 as it just does not have enough support in the mid stroke an I'm blowing through the travel on bigger hits.

    Thanks
  • 04-18-2013
    evasive
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    I have an X-Fusion Vector Air HLR on my Prime, and I'm very happy with it. Having your RP23 tuned might be an option for you, though. FM went that route for his Prime, and has praised the results on here a few times.
  • 04-19-2013
    NoStyle
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rednova75 View Post
    Is anyone using a rear shock other than the RP23 or CCDB air? Thinking of switch out the RP23 as it just does not have enough support in the mid stroke an I'm blowing through the travel on bigger hits.

    Thanks

    Not for the Rune, but for the Spitfire I run a Manitou-Evolver ISX-4, which does a pretty good Job! If you have the Chance to get one used (ISX-4 or ISX-6) don´t hesitate. I´m going to ride the CCDB first Time this Weekend to check if there are Differences ...
  • 04-19-2013
    juanbeegas
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    It depends if those dimensions include the overlap of the velcro, but the perimiter of the chainstay is 10cm.

    Thanks, I'll just keep my old chainstay protector, then. I'm still waiting on my frame and just gathering parts up for the build, when it comes. :D

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Uhhh ... that´s a Nukeproof ... doesn´t fit at all ...

    If only Banshee would come up with something... *cough*builttoride*cough*
  • 04-19-2013
    builttoride
    Maybe in time if we ever get an online shop sorted out... we prefer to focus on frames tho, rather than buying catalogue parts and branding them... :P

    I might start branding velcro products!
  • 04-19-2013
    darkslide18
    IMOP the best stuff for CS protection. Wraps on nice. Works like a charm. Quiets things down.

    Home
  • 04-19-2013
    ptd
  • 04-19-2013
    LyNx
    1 Attachment(s)
    Me personally, I prefer to be a bit environmentally friendly and just use all those old tubes I've got hanging around that I already paid for ;) Stays on the PP Primes is a bit wider than production, so with my long feet my heal rubs and burns through whatever, so the old tubes really works out cheap and easy.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    IMOP the best stuff for CS protection. Wraps on nice. Works like a charm. Quiets things down.

    Home

    Attachment 791961
  • 04-19-2013
    Mishtar
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ptd View Post

    +1 for this stuff.
  • 04-19-2013
    stunzeed
    2 Attachment(s)
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    Swapped the sram xo for xtr and a set of the new e13 cranks..


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
  • 04-21-2013
    Mishtar
    I finally finished making changes to my build. The final weight is 33.04Lb's I cannot see where I could lose much more weight besides the fork, saddle, seat post and maybe wheels. I like the saddle and the rest would just coast to much so I think it will stay this way for a bit.

    I have 4 rides on it so far with the SRAM 9 speed R shifter and a shimano 10 speed Shadow + RD and 9 speed cassette and it works flawlessly. I am glad Shimano changed their pull ratio on the new 10 speed RD's.

    Frame Banshee Rune V2 Large raw
    Rear Shock CCDB Air
    Fork Marzocchi 55 RC3 Evo Ti
    Headset Red Cane Creak 110
    F. Tire Schwalble Hans Dampf Vertstar 26 x 2.35 tubless set up
    R.Tire Maxxis Minion DHF Super tacky 1.5 ply 26 x 2.35 tubless set up
    Rims Stans Flow
    Front Hope Evo 2 Black
    Rear Hope Evo 2 Black
    Crankset 22/32 Raceface SIXCC cranks
    Chain SRAM KMC 10 speed
    Freewheel Red SRAM PG-1090 11-34
    Derailleur/F SRAM X9 3x10
    Derailleur/Shimano Xt Shadow Plus
    Shift Lever/SRAM XO 9 speed with match makers for the brakes.
    Shift Lever/SRAM XO 9 speed with match makers for the brakes.
    Saddle Deep Red Chromag Trail Master LTD
    Pedals Canfield Ultimates Magnesium
    Handlebar Black Easton Havoc Carbon
    Stem Hope FR 50mm
    Grips ODI Rogue
    Brake/SRAM XO trail with matchmaker
    Brake/SRAM XO trail with matchmaker
    Rotor/F 108mm
    Rotor/R 180mm
    Seatpost Gravity Dropper
    QR Black Banshee one that came with the frame
  • 04-21-2013
    bullit43
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    I finally finished making changes to my build. The final weight is 33.04Lb's I cannot see where I could lose much more weight besides the fork, saddle, seat post and maybe wheels. I like the saddle and the rest would just coast to much so I think it will stay this way for a bit.

    I have 4 rides on it so far with the SRAM 9 speed R shifter and a shimano 10 speed Shadow + RD and 9 speed cassette and it works flawlessly. I am glad Shimano changed their pull ratio on the new 10 speed RD's.

    Frame Banshee Rune V2 Large raw
    Rear Shock CCDB Air
    Fork Marzocchi 55 RC3 Evo Ti
    Headset Red Cane Creak 110
    F. Tire Schwalble Hans Dampf Vertstar 26 x 2.35 tubless set up
    R.Tire Maxxis Minion DHF Super tacky 1.5 ply 26 x 2.35 tubless set up
    Rims Stans Flow
    Front Hope Evo 2 Black
    Rear Hope Evo 2 Black
    Crankset 22/32 Raceface SIXCC cranks
    Chain SRAM KMC 10 speed
    Freewheel Red SRAM PG-1090 11-34
    Derailleur/F SRAM X9 3x10
    Derailleur/Shimano Xt Shadow Plus
    Shift Lever/SRAM XO 9 speed with match makers for the brakes.
    Shift Lever/SRAM XO 9 speed with match makers for the brakes.
    Saddle Deep Red Chromag Trail Master LTD
    Pedals Canfield Ultimates Magnesium
    Handlebar Black Easton Havoc Carbon
    Stem Hope FR 50mm
    Grips ODI Rogue
    Brake/SRAM XO trail with matchmaker
    Brake/SRAM XO trail with matchmaker
    Rotor/F 108mm
    Rotor/R 180mm
    Seatpost Gravity Dropper
    QR Black Banshee one that came with the frame

    Is there are any photos or is for your eyes only? :)
  • 04-21-2013
    mudpuppy
    Oh man, sounds awesome Mishtar...I hope we can get some rides in before you head out. Got any photos?
  • 04-21-2013
    Mishtar
    The Photo a couple pages back of the bike and my dog are pretty much the exact same except for the pedals. I had some old Fortes on while I was wating for the crampons. The bike actually went from 34.4 down to 33.04 just by changing out those pedals lol.

    I am heading to Van to ride the North Shore and Squamish next week Mudpuppy but I should be back to ride on Sunday on the Island.
  • 04-22-2013
    BeezKneez
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    I have 4 rides on it so far with the SRAM 9 speed R shifter and a shimano 10 speed Shadow + RD and 9 speed cassette and it works flawlessly. I am glad Shimano changed their pull ratio on the new 10 speed RD's.

    Care to explain?
    You run a 10 Speed Shimano Derailleur with a 9 Speed SRAM shifter?
    Is this working?

    Never heard somebody do this before, but I'm very interested in this.
    Would be nice to have some more info on this.
  • 04-22-2013
    Mishtar
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BeezKneez View Post
    Care to explain?
    You run a 10 Speed Shimano Derailleur with a 9 Speed SRAM shifter?
    Is this working?

    Never heard somebody do this before, but I'm very interested in this.
    Would be nice to have some more info on this.

    Yup, I have race face chain rings that run 9 or 10 speed chains, I use a 10 speed, a PG990 9 speed rear cassette 11-34, a Shimano XT Shadow + clutch RD and a XO rear shifter. This thread will explain it a lot better.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/shimano/zee-licious-799094.html
    The gist of it is that the new 10 speed shimano has the same pull ratio as the old 9 speed SRAM and since the shifter only has 9 clicks the RD can only move 9 times so it covers my 11-34.
  • 04-22-2013
    BeezKneez
    Didn't know this was possible before.
    Thank's for the input.

    So I think I will get a Shimano Clutch to wear down my 9speed cassettes and then replace the shifters and go 1x10.
  • 04-26-2013
    Stabone33
    1 Attachment(s)
    A'ight, here's my baby -- first ride today!

    Attachment 794062

    * Frame Size & Color: Banshee Rune V2 w/650b dropouts -- med -- "Fluor"
    * Fork: Fox 34 Float 160 27.5 CTD w/TA
    * Brakes: Shimano SLX
    * Cranks: SLX 2x10, 24x38, 175mm
    * Front Derailleur: SLX
    * Rear Derailleur: XT w/shadow plus
    * Pedals: Crank Bros Candy 2
    * Stem: RaceFace Respond 60mm x 10deg
    * Handlebar: Easton EC70
    * Seatpost: Easton EC70
    * Saddle: WTB Rocket V
    * Bottom Bracket: Shimano
    * Cassette: XT 11-36T
    * Headset: Cane Creek 40
    * Grips: ODI lock-on
    * Front Tire: Kenda Nevegal DTC UST 2.35
    * Front Rim: Stan's Flow EX 650b
    * Front Hub/Skewer: XT / 15mm thru
    * Rear Tire: Kenda Nevegal DTC UST 2.35
    * Rear Rim: Stan's Flow EX 650b
    * Rear Hub/Skewer: XT / 12x142mm thru
    * Weight: I'm guessing around 30lbs, probably a hair over. Calculations based on average component weight come to 28.6lbs without Stan's sealant or brake fluid.

    No action shots yet...riding buddy bailed on me :-(