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  1. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    This is not something I can reccomend. The 180mm fork option is only covered if running a standard zero stack headset. If you ran 180mm fork with -2degrees youd end up with a wheelbase slacker than almost all DH bikes ~62.5 degrees. This combined with the long fork and your weight would run potential of over stressing the frame. Plus it really wouldn't handle very well on vast majority of terrain.

  2. #452
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    100mm or whatever your seatpost suggests, whichever is deeper.
    Thanks a lot!

  3. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by uzurpator View Post
    builttoride:

    Should I be afraid to run a -2degree cups on the new Rune with 180mm fork and slackest geometry setting? I am 250lb geared and have an XL frame on order ( with 150mm dropouts for that extra rigidity ).

    I don't drop to flat all that much - or ever - but that combo is both tempting and worrying at the same time...
    I think Orange County Choppers builds what you're looking for....

    Seriously though - that's full DH geometry (and possibly more as Keith pointed out). You might as well get a DH bike because a) it will be designed to withstand abuse at that geo and b) it's going to lose a lot of its non-DH properties at that point anyway. Putting the front wheel way out there will put your weight further back on the bike, etc.
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  4. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by general lee View Post
    My arms are slightly longer proportional to my height which figures in a bit but that's not really the reason. I used med frames for all my dh race bikes for a long time but they started feeling more cramped as 8" forks and geometry changes made riding less upright and more evenly over the entire bike a lot faster and efficient. I felt like my '08 Sunday would have been perfect with the top and downtube off a large, same with my original Evil Revolt. Even since then I've ridden mostly larges since few companies have totally retooled their geometry around having a longer front end. I heard a from a few product managers that they were considering going to Small, Med, Med-long, XLarge but it's a tough call when people have really been conditioned to think of bikes only in terms of seat tube height and effective TT length (which means nothing as soon as you stand up). Instead of getting on a bike an thinking 'this feels good when I sit on it' you might want to consider what it feels like when you stand on it. Make sense?

    At 5'10 you could go either way depending how you like to be positioned on the bike. I come from more of a DH racing background and prefer a bit more aggressive position on a bike. In this case if you're choosing between sizes it's best to go bigger than smaller since the latter starts to make your hands feel like they're near your waste and your chest and head way ahead of them; not exactly a good feeling.

    I could probably ride a medium with no problem but I just feel more comfortable with the slightly longer front end.

    50mm stem, 740 bars. Same as the DH bike
    Thanks for thoroughtful response!

    I have been thinking back and forth. I agree with all in the text. Interesting how bike industry progressed forward, my 10 years old Norco dh medium is about same size as Sunday small which I have both. Now Rune Large is longer than Sunday Large. Even Mondraker Summum is such "extreme" case with 10mm stem and crazy long TT/WB. Now I notice that current dh frames have more steep SA (scott gambler has over 76degrees ).

    Of course it is reach measurement we talk now as realistic comparison of data, it would be no brainer picking size for Dh riding (since one rides down with the bike),

    but how about it when one climbs up, jumps, cornering with longer TT (say reach) and shorter stem (30-35mm) if we talk about versatile AM bike for most variety of tracks. It is not that climbing is my priority.

    I will test 50mm at first and see what happens. How long hands do you have if I may ask because I think my hands outstreched themselvesby playing too much basketball Honestly I need search for "unproportional" size for limbs to check my body.

    Now to last important point: attack position. I think it makes sense to have forward position to get balanced traction of both wheels when one rides short chainstay as Rune's. I dont think I usually ride forward but I will try it since I have not enough skills to push traction limit in front.

    Btw nice color of your frame! I changed size to L for order , it is safer bet going slightly larger, I assume.
    Last edited by tomasis; 12-07-2012 at 08:56 AM.

  5. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by grazertourer View Post
    @tomasis
    I am 5'11 (180cm) and I ordered a large Rune (it felt great when I sat on it at the Eurobike show). I am currently riding a Liteville 301 in L, but I had a 301 in M before. In retrospective, it was a very wise decision to switch to the larger frame size. Now I am using a shorter stem, which results in almost the same length but gives me more control in extremely steep sections. Since the chainstays did not grow with the larger frame it feels as versatile as the M, but it's much better when I am going fast.

    I will go for L + 30mm stem.
    thanks for the hint. how it feels on other areas except downhill with short stem (30mm). For example, climbing up, big/long jumps, cornering, berms? also in typical am/enduro conditions.

    Im curious what challenges it brings up with such short stem.

  6. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    100mm or whatever your seatpost suggests, whichever is deeper.
    Only 100mm...
    Even my Wildcard has 110mm insert to meet the bottom joint of the top tube with the seat tube - and thatīs for a 400mm one....

  7. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    Only 100mm...
    Even my Wildcard has 110mm insert to meet the bottom joint of the top tube with the seat tube - and thatīs for a 400mm one....
    What does that have to do with anything?
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  8. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by LostBoyScout View Post
    What does that have to do with anything?
    As far as I know this is the worldwide standard for minimum insert of a seatpost into a frame to not crack the frame at the seattube. On my WC it is 110mm with 400m Seattube on the Nicolai Helius AM it is approx. 160mm!!! with 475mm seattube.
    And that has nothing to do with the satndard 90-100mm minimum insert of the seatpost itself.

    Thatīs all...

  9. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    As far as I know this is the worldwide standard for minimum insert of a seatpost into a frame to not crack the frame at the seattube. On my WC it is 110mm with 400m Seattube on the Nicolai Helius AM it is approx. 160mm!!! with 475mm seattube.
    And that has nothing to do with the satndard 90-100mm minimum insert of the seatpost itself.

    Thatīs all...
    The seat tube brace on the Rune is pretty burly. IMO it's up to the frame designer to ensure that a post at minimum insertion will not break the frame, which it looks like Keith has done. Comparing the Rune to the WC is apples and oranges IMO
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  10. #460
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    One thing I would say is that riders have to use some common sense on this stuff... if you are a heavy guy, then I'd recommend getting a longer post for more seatpost insertion. While the seat tube is really pretty strong (not aware of seatpost overload ever damaging a banshee frame), if you weigh 300lbs and run a post at minimum insertion, then your asking for trouble, and warranty does not cover overload.
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  11. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by LostBoyScout View Post
    The seat tube brace on the Rune is pretty burly. IMO it's up to the frame designer to ensure that a post at minimum insertion will not break the frame, which it looks like Keith has done. Comparing the Rune to the WC is apples and oranges IMO
    You are right that Keith already confirmed that 100mm insertion is enough.
    That should be enough and otherwise there still is the crash replacement...
    I would personally go with the standard, because 110 or 120mm of insertion will not change a lot but will perhaps save the frame. I already do it with the WC and THAT is also a burly frame with 3,7kg weight and made for freeriding....

    I think it is all said now, so move on with other topics and Ride on....

  12. #462
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    My V2 is built. As for the M-660 FD, it don't fit. Neither does the Stinger with my granny ring. I was hoping I'd have good luck with that as I did on both my V1 & V1.5 frames but that wasn't the case. So until I can get my hands on a new 1x10 drivetrain, I ditched my granny ring and set up the FD as an upper guide. Needless to say I am stoked to get out to the trails.


  13. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by romar View Post
    My V2 is built. As for the M-660 FD, it don't fit. Neither does the Stinger with my granny ring. I was hoping I'd have good luck with that as I did on both my V1 & V1.5 frames but that wasn't the case. So until I can get my hands on a new 1x10 drivetrain, I ditched my granny ring and set up the FD as an upper guide. Needless to say I am stoked to get out to the trails.

    Nice built and wheelset. Did you ever had issues with the iodine riding AM/Enduro style?

  14. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by romar View Post
    My V2 is built. As for the M-660 FD, it don't fit. Neither does the Stinger with my granny ring. I was hoping I'd have good luck with that as I did on both my V1 & V1.5 frames but that wasn't the case. So until I can get my hands on a new 1x10 drivetrain, I ditched my granny ring and set up the FD as an upper guide. Needless to say I am stoked to get out to the trails.

    I can confirm that the Shimano FD-M785 E Type works. Also looking at the cage it looks like it has plenty of room for a 9 speed chain.

    Universal Cycles -- Shimano FD-M785 E Type Front Derailleur

  15. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    Nice built and wheelset. Did you ever had issues with the iodine riding AM/Enduro style?
    I must admit that I initially purchased this wheelset for the bling factor (I fell in love with the anno black build with orange bits Banshee had done on the V1 Rune and had to replicate!) Been riding them hard and they have been holding up a LOT better than expected. I've had zero freehub issuses which was probably one of the biggest problems with the earlier wheelsets from CB. I have managed to pop a spoke and put a slight flat spot on the rear hoop, and cased the front into a sharp rock which collapsed the rim (check out the front rim right at 12 o'clock). All in all I'm quite happy with them however due to the proprietary parts I don't think I'd buy another set. I'm thinking Hadley's and Stan's for the springtime!

    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    I can confirm that the Shimano FD-M785 E Type works. Also looking at the cage it looks like it has plenty of room for a 9 speed chain.

    Universal Cycles -- Shimano FD-M785 E Type Front Derailleur
    Thanks for the info darkslide. Still not too sure which direction I'd like to go. I may need to do a bit more research and see which 2x + Stinger combination will work or I may just give 1X10 a go. Gotta see how this thing pedals around here!

  16. #466
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    Man all of these pictures are making me jealous. I have had my frame for 2 weeks as of Friday and I have been wating for a few parts to arrive, maunily the FD as I did not know my old one would not work at first.

    Thank god I have a Dh bike and could get out for some shuttle runs today

  17. #467
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    Pictures of bikes sitting in living rooms are ok but.....


    Swapped out the 1.25" rise 777's for .5" Inch Atlas'. Much better.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-trailwork-6.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-trailwork-8.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-trailwork-9.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-trailwork-13.jpg  


  18. #468
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    Rune V2and CCDB air

    Hi,
    in the package is the CCDB air. Plus, there's 3 blue Reduce.
    Then the blue reducer installed?

  19. #469
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    Is there a reason except weight that none of you guys opted for the CCDB Air shock????

  20. #470
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    I hope not because I did...

  21. #471
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    Wow, there is one...

    In theory the CCDB should be superior in most riding conditions.
    I would have expected the Spitfire fanboys to go with the FOX while the RUNE maniacs stay with the DB-Air.
    Would be interesting to know the reason. In Germany the price difference between the two is minimal so no reason to stay away from the assumed "better" shock.

  22. #472
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    AFAIR It's not available with DBAir yet. Alas as a kit

  23. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    Pictures of bikes sitting in living rooms are ok but.....

    Could not agree more!!



  24. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by romar View Post
    Could not agree more!!


    What size bars are you riding there? They look tiny for your size!

    Awesome pictures btw

  25. #475
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    I didn't get a DBAir because they weren't available when I ordered my frame, I intend to upgrade to the DBAir when I can.

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