I think I´m the first to have the official and final Banshee Rune v2. Nothing but to say that this is the really first bike I see it´s almost perfect!!! Since the geometries (absolutely awesome) until the suspension system... probably the best I´ve ever try in my life ( my last bike was a Ibis mojo hd and it was a good bike too but... this Rune is outstanding)
Well.. before the photo session it´s important to point out some data to get a better idea about this kind of bike...
Frame weight --> Size L ( 3.6 kilos With shock) ( 7.9 lbs)
The main points of this bike are
Head Angle (With lyrik 170mm rc2 dh coil) --> 65º
Seat Angle --> 73,5º
Bottom Bracket Heigh --> 345mm ( So less than the geo chart even with the lyrik)
Wheelbase --> 1185mm
Well, I already got all the components from my previous AM and I thought it would be good to save some money. Any idea if I can re-use my XT crankset by replacing the outer gear with a bashguard?
yes you can, that is not a problem at all. a cheap upgrade would be a bash and a blackspire stinger dual ring guide. unless you have a sram or shimano clutch type derailler already
I received my new frame today and before I start building it together I have a few questions:
1) Within the bottom bracket, I noticed a scratch through the thread. Could this lead to problems later on? it doesn't seem to be very deep but you can definitely feel it with your finger (see uploaded image No 2).
2) There are a few minor dents within the seat tube - see picture No 1. I don't really care about this as long as this does not pose any structural weakness. Thoughts?
3) The seat post (Rock Shox Reverb, 30,9mm) slips really easy into the seat tube... looks like there's almost too much tolerance between seat post and seat tube diameter? Had the same problem with a Kona once which made it hard to fix the seat post in one position.
4) Any advice for the torquening specs of the dropouts? How about the bolts fixing the damper?
5) Can I adjust any seat posts height to my likes (i.e. pull it out as far as possible, considering the "min insert" marker) or do I have to add a few mm due to the way the seat tube is welded to the top tube?
I received my new frame today and before I start building it together I have a few questions:
1) Within the bottom bracket, I noticed a scratch through the thread. Could this lead to problems later on? it doesn't seem to be very deep but you can definitely feel it with your finger (see uploaded image No 2).
2) There are a few minor dents within the seat tube - see picture No 1. I don't really care about this as long as this does not pose any structural weakness. Thoughts?
3) The seat post (Rock Shox Reverb, 30,9mm) slips really easy into the seat tube... looks like there's almost too much tolerance between seat post and seat tube diameter? Had the same problem with a Kona once which made it hard to fix the seat post in one position.
5) Can I adjust any seat posts height to my likes (i.e. pull it out as far as possible, considering the "min insert" marker) or do I have to add a few mm due to the way the seat tube is welded to the top tube?
I went from V1 Spitfire to NomadC to V2 Rune, and I prefer the Banshees hands down. The Nomad, for as popular as it is, has some odd behaviors. I know it's good enough for some of the top riders in the world to win on, but it didn't suit my tastes. I don't feel like it worked well with an air shock and I always felt like it slightly hung up on square edge hits. I have had two VPP bikes now and I don't intend to have another.
The KS link should feel different as it is actually quite different in design than the VPP (no counter rotating top link) so it doesn't have that momentary lack of support in the middle of the stroke as it travels through its S-shaped rear wheel travel path (which is smaller in the VPP2 design). I was actually able to dial in the DHX Air quite well on my Prime proto - a shock with poor support/adjustment in mid travel that is notoriously horrible on VPP bikes. It is closer in concept to shortened 4 bar designs (DW, Maestro, etc).
I'm sure builttoride will cover this more accurately and correct me on the finer details...
Great info guys! @ Coiler-d, what size Nomad did you have & your current V2 size? How different of a cockpit feel do they have? I'm also wondering why I can't find more detailed reviews as its been out a while!
I thought I had seen Kieth mention somewhere the Blue were for the first run and the Yellow the second, so you could not get Yellow at first and now that the yellows are being made they are not making blue. I could be talking out of my ass but I thought I saw this somewhere.
Socal - I am 5'7" and kind of leggier for short dude. I have had Medium in all three bikes. The V1 Spitty and V2 Rune seem to fit similarly and both are longer that the medium NomadC.
cressa - I have to admit I only have 2 legit rides in on the V2 Rune, but it doesn't feel like it is as good of a climber as my Spitfire was. My Rune is coil front and rear and about 3 lbs heavier though. The Rune is definitely stiff and I haven't even gotten my 142mm drops yet, but I didn't have any complaints with the stiffness of the Spitfire, when everything was in check. I really think it is nearly impossible to have a 6"ish travel bike that soaks everything up yet still climbs excellantly, but I think the Rune is as good as it gets. I am fortunate, partially because of the upgrade program, that I am able to have two bikes this year and have the Rune set up more for the downs and my other bike will be for the XC rides.
I've been searching for quite some time for a bike that ticks all the boxes and i think the Rune or Spitfire V2 may be it. To give you a bit of an idea of what kind of rider i am, i'm primarily a downhill racer (rode expert in 2009) and my style of riding is smooth - i like to hop obstacles and rather enjoy hitting jumps. My question is, if i was going to have one bike and one bike only, should it be the Spitfire or the Rune? I ride a lot of trail centers but also a fair amount of DH - usually hit the alps once a year. Could the Spitfire handle it or would the Rune be better? There certainly doesn't seem to be much difference in terms of weight between the two.... I currently ride a Trek EX8 with 36's, its ok for most stuff but i'd be afraid to smash out any DH's on it!
Standard in my experience after finding I like the standard with large air volume reducer over no volume reducer.
The XV would need 3 volume reducers for me!
I'd bet the frames with DBAir have shipped so far with the 'large volume inner can' and 'standard outer can', based on the photos in this thread.
The sicklines link says The new XV can is available as a retrofitable option or it can be purchased installed on a new DBAir.
It will be available for purchase in March through Independent Bike Shops - or will come spec'ed with the 2013 Banshee Rune, Nicolai Ion 16, Ion 18, Ion 20, Helius AM and the Helius AC 650. Additional OE models will be added in the future as well.
The cane creek website will have base tune settings for both, regular and XV can in time I believe, with dropdown menu to select between them. It will come down to personal preferance, and base tunes are only a very rough guide for you to use as a starting point.
This is getting out of hand. We have yet another variation to try and decifer?
I went ahead and purchased a Cane Creek Double Barrel Air at the end of last October for my incoming Rune. At the time as far as I could tell there was only one variation of the CCDBa. Now I come to find out there was a low and high volume internal air can? How does one tell these apart?
Now, blissfully unaware, I finally get my Rune and build her up and dial in the shock to the base tune and install one large volume spacer. Only now I find out the base tune and recommended air volume spacer were actually for a yet unreleased CCDBa with EXTRA VOLUME! Great...
So what then is the recommended base tune for the shock that has been out for months? The base tunes on the CC site are now specified as pertaining to the yet unreleased EXTRA VOLUME shock.
I assume whether I have the small or large volume inner air can i do NOT want to have any volume spacers installed? Maybe I can drill some holes in my air can for EXTRA VOLUME?
My head hurts. I just want to get this dialed in for when riding season gets here. Its just around the corner.
PS: What is the address for the submission of the paper warranty registration form? The address printed on the form was incorrect and the letter was returned to me from Canada saying the recipient had moved. Two stamps down the drain. And, SURPRISE, Trident hasn't emailed me back. This was a couple weeks ago now.
This might turn into a tuning thread?
I'd assume you have the newer larger inner can. At least to save your sanity .
We most likely all have the large inner can and standard outer can on fairly new shocks.
With suggested sag and compression/rebound I found the shock felt like it was running too far into the travel considering the terrain/speed, so started upping low/high compression and reducing low/high rebound, after a few rides added the large air volume reducer and now it feels better.
I do like lots of HSC, so that could contribute to my need for the volume reducer, because it might stop the shock recovering at times.
It's a 3 minute job to add/remove air volume spacers anyway... Settings depend so much on terrain/speed/style I try to forget the number of clicks and go by feel using the bracketing technique over multiple runs...
Yeah I know it doesn't take long to install the spacer, I installed one already, but holy crap its annoying trying to keep everything straight and figure out what is what.
Only shocks I've seen so far seem to be the fox CTD and CCDB air, any other good options? Anyone built one with a monarch plus by chance? Or at least know if the monarch plus would work with the rune v2??
I am, a Monarch RC3 plus with HV/low tune which runs pretty good, almost too linear though. Great for the bumps, but alway use all my travel even with adding 20psi from previous bike. As Keith suggested go low tune for plush, mid tune for more compression damping and pedability. He recommends mid level compression tune with low rebound. My Monarch is the opposite with low compression, mid rebound and only run 4 clicks of rebound on it. Bike climb the tech great w/low tune and nice and smooth on the way down, I just manually add some compression for the hits.
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