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  1. #751
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    Quote Originally Posted by _va View Post
    What will accept the shock-absorber for rune v2 better? Standard CCDBair or The Lounge | Chatter | Introducing the XV ?
    Standard in my experience after finding I like the standard with large air volume reducer over no volume reducer.
    The XV would need 3 volume reducers for me!

  2. #752
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    Quote Originally Posted by _va View Post
    What will accept the shock-absorber for rune v2 better? Standard CCDBair or The Lounge | Chatter | Introducing the XV ?

    I noticed in posts from builttoride regarding DBair settings he mentions the Xvol can:

    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride
    Rune spec for the DBair is Xvol can with 1 large volume spacer. Base settings are as follows:

    LSR - 14 clicks in
    LSC - 10 clicks in
    HSR - 2 turns in
    HSC - 2 turns in

  3. #753
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Willanholly View Post
    I noticed in posts from builttoride regarding DBair settings he mentions the Xvol can:
    Interesting... my frame was supplied with 'standard' not XV, so the base settings are for the new XV not supplied 'standard'?

    Not that it matters much, I followed the suggest base then just tuned away..!

    I assumed Xvol in the post from builttoride just mean 'high volume air shock' that the 'standard' DBair can also be referred to as?

    So many internet confusions..

    I must like a progressive shock?!

  4. #754
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    Nice! Your quick review justifies my my personal predictions on this bike. I've ridden FM's Prime and my initial reaction was it seemed like an "overly solid downhiller's all-mountain bike." Granted, it was oversprung for my weight. I imagine the Rune will feel the same but with a much smaller cockpit.

    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    I like it. Simply put it feels like you'd expect, and is close enough to what the various 650b reviews/tests suggest:

    > Repetitive 'medium hits' or chatter - Feels smoother and faster
    > Cornering traction - The jury is out on this, the bike has so many other changes it'd be hard to justify simple 'yes'. But anyway, it feels more like stability increase rather than pure traction, perhaps that's the same thing anyway?
    > Flickable - The bike feels a bit bigger, rather than anything noticeable from the wheels stopping moving the bike around. My build and set-up is 'mini-dh/enduro', it's as capable as my DH rig on the descents while sprinting and changing direction much quicker, so that's a good result. Is it worse? No not for my riding intention - bombing the cr@p out of everything!

    Would I choose 650b over 26inch in hindsight? Yes.
    What does it feel like? It feels like a normal bike with bigger tyres (no magic!).
    Official Chocolate Fountain Spokesman

  5. #755
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    650B experience

    Quote Originally Posted by <sL4yEr>RuLz View Post
    ptd, what do you think so far?
    This is a quote from Pink Bike of all places and might be one of the best descriptions I've seen of 650B wheels and the effect they have.

    "The takeaway of a well-designed 650B bike is defined by hundreds of small events over the entire ride that compound the experience, rather than a few shining moments. The wider the variety of terrain, the more one begins to appreciate the concept. An 'ah-ha' 650B moment on the first ride? Probably not, but after few good laps, the advantages start to pop and the 650B begins to feel less like a hybrid and much more like a whole new animal"
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  6. #756
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    Interesting... my frame was supplied with 'standard' not XV, so the base settings are for the new XV not supplied 'standard'?

    Not that it matters much, I followed the suggest base then just tuned away..!

    I assumed Xvol in the post from builttoride just mean 'high volume air shock' that the 'standard' DBair can also be referred to as?

    So many internet confusions..

    I must like a progressive shock?!
    I think I've found the source of the confusion. Last year, Cane Creek started offering a high volume inner air can for the CCDB, and I believe this is what builttoride is referring to as the XVol can. CaneCreek Double Barrel Air Owners! - North Shore Mountain Biking Forums

    I think I read somewhere that Cane Creek has been shipping the DBairs with the larger inner air can for a few months now.

  7. #757
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Willanholly View Post
    I think I've found the source of the confusion. Last year, Cane Creek started offering a high volume inner air can for the CCDB, and I believe this is what builttoride is referring to as the XVol can. CaneCreek Double Barrel Air Owners! - North Shore Mountain Biking Forums
    I think I read somewhere that Cane Creek has been shipping the DBairs with the larger inner air can for a few months now.
    Yep that explains it. Wohoo I'm normal again!

  8. #758
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    Quote Originally Posted by <sL4yEr>RuLz View Post
    I've ridden FM's Prime and my initial reaction was it seemed like an "overly solid downhiller's all-mountain bike." Granted, it was oversprung for my weight. I imagine the Rune will feel the same but with a much smaller cockpit.
    I'm very curious to try out a Rune 650b as well. Good choice

    The production rune frame will be ~1lb lighter than my Prime proto. I think the sizing on the small will work better for you (My medium prime proto sometimes feels just a bit large for my taste).

    650b = 27.1, so I'd expect it to feel closer to 26 than 29...but then you'll also have a lot more travel both front and rear.

    Should be a good compliment to your bandit29.

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  10. #760
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    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

    So is the new XLV a better option? I'm buying a CCDBAir and would like to know which one to get?

  11. #761
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    Yes, it would be the best option for the Rune V2.

  12. #762
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    Ah balz I'm not normal again!

    I'd bet the frames with DBAir have shipped so far with the 'large volume inner can' and 'standard outer can', based on the photos in this thread.

    The sicklines link says
    The new XV can is available as a retrofitable option or it can be purchased installed on a new DBAir.
    It will be available for purchase in March through Independent Bike Shops – or will come spec’ed with the 2013 Banshee Rune, Nicolai Ion 16, Ion 18, Ion 20, Helius AM and the Helius AC 650. Additional OE models will be added in the future as well.


    » Cane Creek – DBAir Gets a High Volume Air Canister – XV - Sick Lines – mountain bike reviews, news, videos | Your comprehensive downhill and freeride mountain bike resource

    Builttoride may have well posted the base settings against the new XV outer can after all!

  13. #763
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    The cane creek website will have base tune settings for both, regular and XV can in time I believe, with dropdown menu to select between them. It will come down to personal preferance, and base tunes are only a very rough guide for you to use as a starting point.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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    Banshee Blog

  14. #764
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    Ah good I will sleep well now!

    Here is the cane creek settings page:
    Cane Creek DBAIR Suspension Base Tunes

  15. #765
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    This is getting out of hand. We have yet another variation to try and decifer?

    I went ahead and purchased a Cane Creek Double Barrel Air at the end of last October for my incoming Rune. At the time as far as I could tell there was only one variation of the CCDBa. Now I come to find out there was a low and high volume internal air can? How does one tell these apart?

    Now, blissfully unaware, I finally get my Rune and build her up and dial in the shock to the base tune and install one large volume spacer. Only now I find out the base tune and recommended air volume spacer were actually for a yet unreleased CCDBa with EXTRA VOLUME! Great...

    So what then is the recommended base tune for the shock that has been out for months? The base tunes on the CC site are now specified as pertaining to the yet unreleased EXTRA VOLUME shock.

    I assume whether I have the small or large volume inner air can i do NOT want to have any volume spacers installed? Maybe I can drill some holes in my air can for EXTRA VOLUME?

    My head hurts. I just want to get this dialed in for when riding season gets here. Its just around the corner.

    PS: What is the address for the submission of the paper warranty registration form? The address printed on the form was incorrect and the letter was returned to me from Canada saying the recipient had moved. Two stamps down the drain. And, SURPRISE, Trident hasn't emailed me back. This was a couple weeks ago now.

  16. #766
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    I assume an EXTRA VOLUME air can with a large spacer would fall somewhere between the gold and gray lines>


  17. #767
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    This might turn into a tuning thread?
    I'd assume you have the newer larger inner can. At least to save your sanity .
    We most likely all have the large inner can and standard outer can on fairly new shocks.

    With suggested sag and compression/rebound I found the shock felt like it was running too far into the travel considering the terrain/speed, so started upping low/high compression and reducing low/high rebound, after a few rides added the large air volume reducer and now it feels better.
    I do like lots of HSC, so that could contribute to my need for the volume reducer, because it might stop the shock recovering at times.
    It's a 3 minute job to add/remove air volume spacers anyway... Settings depend so much on terrain/speed/style I try to forget the number of clicks and go by feel using the bracketing technique over multiple runs...

  18. #768
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    Yeah I know it doesn't take long to install the spacer, I installed one already, but holy crap its annoying trying to keep everything straight and figure out what is what.

    PS: EXTRA VOLUME

    PPS: Thanks for the reply.

  19. #769
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    Quote Originally Posted by JansonJanson View Post
    finally its done ...

    here is my Rune in XL pretty sweet

    Attachment 768949

    more info´s will come, for now, i must go to sleep
    Hi Budy

    Watch the tension fo the chain... I´would recommend you to check it again... it seems a little bit broad...

    by the way.. good built!!!!

    pd: What are your measurement¿¿? (tall and inseam in cm please)

  20. #770
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    Does anyone know what the chainline is?

  21. #771
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdrianoMTB View Post
    Hi Budy

    Watch the tension fo the chain... I´would recommend you to check it again... it seems a little bit broad...

    by the way.. good built!!!!

    pd: What are your measurement¿¿? (tall and inseam in cm please)
    Hei man,

    i know the problem, actuall i am going without the e13 32t srs+ chain device, but without the bashguard, and the taco. I but some carbon leather on the upper device, as close as possible to the chain. In combination with the zee, i had no problems over the winter here in germany, on my spicy.
    But, the chainlength is difficult to get right.
    Now when i am 36 - 32, full compression, the zee is nearly horizontal, its still ok.
    On the lowest 11 - 32, there is minimum tension on the chain.
    If i take the rune to the alps, i want to built on the taco and bashguard. then, the chain would be 2 short, if i take one more chainlink out - i guess so.

    I am 187cm tall, and have an inseam of about somewhere 95-98cm
    freedom is the ability to go where you want, when u want

  22. #772
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    Quote Originally Posted by Resnick View Post
    Does anyone know what the chainline is?
    Chainline is dictated by whatever crankset you are using.

  23. #773
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    man getting bored of looking at other peoples bikes... still waiting for mine

    my shops not even getting a response on delivery dates now...

  24. #774
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    Quote Originally Posted by williethewaiter View Post
    man getting bored of looking at other peoples bikes... still waiting for mine

    my shops not even getting a response on delivery dates now...
    i know its hard to wait - for me, i waited about 3,5 Months - but now, i am so happy.
    the waiting pays off, for sure!

    greets
    freedom is the ability to go where you want, when u want

  25. #775
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    Only shocks I've seen so far seem to be the fox CTD and CCDB air, any other good options? Anyone built one with a monarch plus by chance? Or at least know if the monarch plus would work with the rune v2??

  26. #776
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironxcross View Post
    Only shocks I've seen so far seem to be the fox CTD and CCDB air, any other good options? Anyone built one with a monarch plus by chance? Or at least know if the monarch plus would work with the rune v2??
    I am, a Monarch RC3 plus with HV/low tune which runs pretty good, almost too linear though. Great for the bumps, but alway use all my travel even with adding 20psi from previous bike. As Keith suggested go low tune for plush, mid tune for more compression damping and pedability. He recommends mid level compression tune with low rebound. My Monarch is the opposite with low compression, mid rebound and only run 4 clicks of rebound on it. Bike climb the tech great w/low tune and nice and smooth on the way down, I just manually add some compression for the hits.
    Ride On!

  27. #777
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironxcross View Post
    Only shocks I've seen so far seem to be the fox CTD and CCDB air, any other good options? Anyone built one with a monarch plus by chance? Or at least know if the monarch plus would work with the rune v2??
    The Elka is pretty awesome, unless you're dead set on air.

  28. #778
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    I am, a Monarch RC3 plus with HV/low tune which runs pretty good, almost too linear though. Great for the bumps, but alway use all my travel even with adding 20psi from previous bike. As Keith suggested go low tune for plush, mid tune for more compression damping and pedability. He recommends mid level compression tune with low rebound. My Monarch is the opposite with low compression, mid rebound and only run 4 clicks of rebound on it. Bike climb the tech great w/low tune and nice and smooth on the way down, I just manually add some compression for the hits.
    Awesome info, sounds like I'd be happy with the mid tune. Pretty set on air for weight reasons and what I'll use it for. If money was no object I'd definitely consider a ti coil, but I'm trying to keep the budget reasonable and the xx1 drive-train isn't making that easy.

  29. #779
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    I am, a Monarch RC3 plus with HV/low tune which runs pretty good, almost too linear though. Great for the bumps, but alway use all my travel even with adding 20psi from previous bike. As Keith suggested go low tune for plush, mid tune for more compression damping and pedability. He recommends mid level compression tune with low rebound. My Monarch is the opposite with low compression, mid rebound and only run 4 clicks of rebound on it. Bike climb the tech great w/low tune and nice and smooth on the way down, I just manually add some compression for the hits.
    I'm going to give the Fox CTD a little longer before I end up selling it. Way too linear. Ordered a pack of spacers to throw in the air can to see if I can get just a little more ramp up and mid stroke support. As it is now it feels a little dead in the rear. Feels like I'm riding with a blown rear tire.

    By low rebound do you mean faster or slower?

  30. #780
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    I'm going to give the Fox CTD a little longer before I end up selling it. Way too linear. Ordered a pack of spacers to throw in the air can to see if I can get just a little more ramp up and mid stroke support.
    This pretty much parallels my thoughts as well. The stock shock is way under-valved.


  31. #781
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    Yeah, that's what I had to do with the Fox RP3 on the Yeti SB66 with low compression, low rebound tune, would result in blasting thru the travel a bit too easy and bottom out on the smallest of hits even with proper sag. Went with the Fox medium volume spacer and it gave more end range travel support without altering the feel of the suspension too much.

    By low rebound, I am referring to the manufacturer's tune of the shock, which would equate to slower rebound. The Monarchs are kind of confusing in that you can get them stock in almost any configuration: high volume/low volume, low/mid/high compression, low/mid/high rebound tune. Keith suggested to me, the Rune works best with mid compression, low rebound tune by the shock manufacturer. So, I run my Monarch on external mid-compression setting most of the time and minimal when wanting uber plush thru the chatter and rocks.
    Ride On!

  32. #782
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Yeah, that's what I had to do with the Fox RP3 on the Yeti SB66 with low compression, low rebound tune, would result in blasting thru the travel a bit too easy and bottom out on the smallest of hits even with proper sag. Went with the Fox medium volume spacer and it gave more end range travel support without altering the feel of the suspension too much.

    By low rebound, I am referring to the manufacturer's tune of the shock, which would equate to slower rebound. The Monarchs are kind of confusing in that you can get them stock in almost any configuration: high volume/low volume, low/mid/high compression, low/mid/high rebound tune. Keith suggested to me, the Rune works best with mid compression, low rebound tune by the shock manufacturer. So, I run my Monarch on external mid-compression setting most of the time and minimal when wanting uber plush thru the chatter and rocks.
    Gotcha. Didn't realize you were talking about the Manufacturers tune. Looking at the CTD it looks like it runs a mid comp tune and a low rebound tune. Maybe Ill play with speeding up the rebound a bit to try and alleviate the dead feeling I'm getting out back. Maybe it is packing a bit?

    For ****s and giggles I swapped out my slack flip chips for the neutral ones. See that goes tomorrow.

  33. #783
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    For ****s and giggles I swapped out my slack flip chips for the neutral ones. See that goes tomorrow.
    Cool, think you may like it better. Should be a bit easier to climb on and quite possibly faster and more responsive on the descents. That is what I found going from slack to neutral on mine. The bike feels a little more lively and balanced to me in that setting, even at Blackrock. I did not like descending in the slack/lower setting as much, opposite of what you would think there. Think the suspension kinematics might possibly be optimized and tuned around the neutral setting. Just a guess, but that is my observation so far. I may go back to the slack setting for annual bike park trip this summer.
    Ride On!

  34. #784
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    jgusta,

    -What is your weight?
    Do you know if the settings Keith gave you are universal?

    I'm asking because Antonio adviced (compression): M above 85 kg, L below 60 kg. All in between according to own preferences

  35. #785
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    anybody been running Bos VipR? can anyone comment it? tunning specs etc.

    Im still waiting for the frame and hope to get within a few days after a few months waiting. Excited.

    I have VipR laying and cannot wait to test out this. On the label it says "VIP01". I wonder what configuration does it has

  36. #786
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    NVM just noticed the date.

  37. #787
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    Quote Originally Posted by yancho View Post
    jgusta,

    -What is your weight?
    Do you know if the settings Keith gave you are universal?

    I'm asking because Antonio adviced (compression): M above 85 kg, L below 60 kg. All in between according to own preferences
    215 lbs ride weight
    Ride On!

  38. #788
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    meins:


  39. #789
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    Hey guys, seeing all these builds and reading all the feedback means that my next bike will indeed be the Rune. I have a question though, much like General Lee, i come from a competitive DH background and i'm also the same height (5'11). Lee has gone for a large and i'm thinking of doing the same. I know Lee went for the large primarily for the advantages riding DH but i'm wondering if there any issues with climbing on what is a fairly long bike. This bike is going to be my only bike so i don't really want to mess it up in regards to size etc! Any help would be much appreciated!

  40. #790
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spooky221 View Post
    Hey guys, seeing all these builds and reading all the feedback means that my next bike will indeed be the Rune. I have a question though, much like General Lee, i come from a competitive DH background and i'm also the same height (5'11). Lee has gone for a large and i'm thinking of doing the same. I know Lee went for the large primarily for the advantages riding DH but i'm wondering if there any issues with climbing on what is a fairly long bike. This bike is going to be my only bike so i don't really want to mess it up in regards to size etc! Any help would be much appreciated!
    Hey Spooky221,

    I too am 5'11" (33.5" inseam) and rode a medium V1 with a 65mm stem which I always found a little cramped for general AM duties. I couldnt decide between M and L for my V2. Going by the numbers I thought the V2 Large might be a little long for me but I went with it, and have to say its perfect. The top tube really doesnt feel too long. I swapped out my stem to a 50mm and my bar to a 760mm and its dialled. The only thing I'd say is if you run a dropper post check how much post you need exposed. I have a 6" KS post and only have about 1" of post showing between the frame clamp and the post's collar. If you have shorter legs this may be a problem meaning you'd have to run a post with less drop.

    I'll stick up some pics of my build later. Hope this helps. The bike is great btw, rips DH and climbs way nicer than the V1.

  41. #791
    ptd
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    I have a 6" KS post and only have about 1" of post showing between the frame clamp and the post's collar. If you have shorter legs this may be a problem meaning you'd have to run a post with less drop
    This is the KS Lev 150?

    murrayf can you do me a favour and measure the distance from the saddle rails to the bottom of the post collar, with the post extended?

    There was another thread about this, but it would be good to get it confirmed from a fellow Rune'r.

    Thanks.

  42. #792
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    Hey Spooky221,

    I too am 5'11" (33.5" inseam) and rode a medium V1 with a 65mm stem which I always found a little cramped for general AM duties. I couldnt decide between M and L for my V2. Going by the numbers I thought the V2 Large might be a little long for me but I went with it, and have to say its perfect. The top tube really doesnt feel too long. I swapped out my stem to a 50mm and my bar to a 760mm and its dialled. The only thing I'd say is if you run a dropper post check how much post you need exposed. I have a 6" KS post and only have about 1" of post showing between the frame clamp and the post's collar. If you have shorter legs this may be a problem meaning you'd have to run a post with less drop.

    I'll stick up some pics of my build later. Hope this helps. The bike is great btw, rips DH and climbs way nicer than the V1.
    Hey Murrayf,

    thanks for the feedback! I have a 33" inseam so reckon I'll go with the large. I think i'll run it with a 40mm stem and 750 bars. Don't plan to use a dropper at the moment (all my money is going towards the frame!) but i'll bear that in mind as i'm sure i'll get one at some point!

    Thanks again for the info and get those pics up!!
    Last edited by Spooky221; 02-11-2013 at 01:19 PM.

  43. #793
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    This is the KS Lev 150?

    murrayf can you do me a favour and measure the distance from the saddle rails to the bottom of the post collar, with the post extended?

    There was another thread about this, but it would be good to get it confirmed from a fellow Rune'r.

    Thanks.
    Hey ptd, sorry its an older 950 and actually a 5"/125mm, not 6". For reference it measures 7" from saddle rail to beneath the collar chamfer (as far inserted as the post could go).

  44. #794
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    Swapped out the Shimano XT kit and went with 1x10 SRAM X9 with an MRP Bling Ring.


  45. #795
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    A few pics of my build. Had 4 rides on it now and have to mirror what everyone else is saying. Faster down and way faster up than the old Rune.

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-runev2-01.jpg

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-runev2-02.jpg

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-runev2-16.jpg

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-runev2-05.jpg

    Note - the dropped chainstays on the Rune make it impossible to run the MRP G2 Mini in the correct position. I have it turned as far as it will go (anticlock) and the chain JUST clears the chainstay with an SLX GS rear mech, however with the Zee mech it does not because the chain doesnt get pulled downward enough from the guide pulley. So I had to remove the guide pulley and re-install my Bionicon guide. Works perfect, but isnt ideal.
    Last edited by murrayf; 02-12-2013 at 02:07 PM.

  46. #796
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    "Faster down and way faster up than the old Rune"

    So true, feels like a true "AM" bike to me. Whereas, most of everything else out there are just glorified trail bikes.

    Nice bike, congrats!
    Ride On!

  47. #797
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    Note - the dropped chainstays on the Rune make it impossible run the MRP G2 in the correct position. I have it turned as far as it will go (anticlock) and the chain JUST clears the chainstay with an SLX GS rear mech, however with the Zee mech it does not because the chain doesnt get pulled downward enough from the guide pulley. So I had to remove the guide pulley and re-install my Bionicon guide. Works perfect, but isnt ideal.
    That's what I'm worried about - I want to give the e13 TRS+ a try but from what I can "guess" when looking at my frame, is that there is not enough clearance for the guide pulley. I know that there are a few pulleysout there that can be run with the frame - but has anyone made any experience with the TRS+ in particular?

  48. #798
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    I'm running an SRS+ on my spitfire without any issue, rune is not far off spitfire for clearance, so I'm sure you can make it work. Worst case scenario you could grind a little section of the backplate to make it fit without sacrificing performance if needed.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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  49. #799
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    Note - the dropped chainstays on the Rune make it impossible run the MRP G2 in the correct position. I have it turned as far as it will go (anticlock) and the chain JUST clears the chainstay with an SLX GS rear mech, however with the Zee mech it does not because the chain doesnt get pulled downward enough from the guide pulley. So I had to remove the guide pulley and re-install my Bionicon guide. Works perfect, but isnt ideal.[/QUOTE

    What about the MRP Micro guide, 28t-32t?

  50. #800
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrayf View Post
    Note - the dropped chainstays on the Rune make it impossible run the MRP G2 in the correct position. I have it turned as far as it will go (anticlock) and the chain JUST clears the chainstay with an SLX GS rear mech, however with the Zee mech it does not because the chain doesnt get pulled downward enough from the guide pulley. So I had to remove the guide pulley and re-install my Bionicon guide. Works perfect, but isnt ideal.
    I don't have any problems with the G2 with my set up, XTR mid cage and 38t ring.

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