• 10-08-2013
    dansMTB
    What do folks think of the open 135mm dropouts? Does the rear still feel plenty stiff?
  • 10-12-2013
    Gemini2k05
    6 Attachment(s)
    Finally some pics

    35.4 pounds with single plys right now (and that's a coil fork). Only thing to note, for the xt cranks with straitline guide, I had to put a 2.5mm spacer on the drive side BB cup to get it to line up correctly. Even with no spacers on the guide mounting bolts it was interfering a TINY bit. If I can get my hands on slightly thinner BB spacer that would be best.

    This thing feels pretty burly. Definitely stiffer than your average trail bike. Also at 6'7" it feels pretty big. Bigger than I was expecting, which is good. I just wish they're make size specific headtube lengths. The short head tube with a lot of fork steerer exposed definitely makes it a little flexier than it should be. I guess it's just a cost saving measure though. Yes those are 25.4, 3" rise handlebars.

    Attachment 838617

    Attachment 838618

    Attachment 838619

    Attachment 838620

    Attachment 838621

    Attachment 838622
  • 10-13-2013
    Uphill=sad
    Anyone running 180mm cranks? Just wondering what the clearance is like, currently on 170's and not having the slightest problem with clearance - mid dropout position.

    Not much liking the 170's, used a few online calculators and my inseam is off the charts and they recommend 180>, I used 180's in the past and quite like the feel, just worried about clearance and pedal strikes mostly during technical climbs.
  • 10-13-2013
    diablosp
    Re: Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    Here it is, my Rune with a "lightish" build for trail and long enduro routes.

    A bit under 14kg, it feels surprisingly good on the climbs, and planted on the downhills. I'm liking it a lot.

  • 10-13-2013
    Gemini2k05
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Uphill=sad View Post

    Not much liking the 170's, used a few online calculators and my inseam is off the charts and they recommend 180>, I used 180's in the past and quite like the feel, just worried about clearance and pedal strikes mostly during technical climbs.

    What's your inseam? Mine's 37", I just put 180 cranks on my road bike, gonna try it out tomorrow. I kinda wish i could try some 180 on the rune. Do they even make 180 XTs? My climbs are usually just fireroad so i think i could get away with it.
  • 10-13-2013
    Gemini2k05
    Also, that DBair has terrible rebound damping. adjusters are all the way in and still feels like a pogo stick. I'm selling that thing asap. It doesn't work for high spring rates. Maybe softer ones its good.
  • 10-13-2013
    cunningstunts
    i have RF Turbine 180's on my 29er. it was available so i thought i'd try it. i like it, but wouldn't put them on my Range KB (equivalent to the Rune). so much plush travel would mean even more strikes.
  • 10-13-2013
    Uphill=sad
    All shimano cranks come in 180's, looking at another pair of XT's, the right weight, stiffness and price.

    My inseam is 39 with my SPD shoes on, I ride a large rune with a 435mm LEV pole that's slightly above the don't go past line, but the reach on the bike is pretty spot on.

    Also mostly climbing on fire roads or smooth trail, so I think (hope) I can get away with it.

    My rebound damping on the CCDBA is quite good, very predictable and right where I want it. So far been very happy with it's performance, I weight 235.
  • 10-14-2013
    krj
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by diablosp View Post
    Here it is, my Rune with a "lightish" build for trail and long enduro routes.

    A bit under 14kg, it feels surprisingly good on the climbs, and planted on the downhills. I'm liking it a
    ]

    How does pike feel on the rune ?

    Is it 26 or 27.5 ?
  • 10-14-2013
    MartinS
    There must be something wrong with the shock, they are super adjustable. Call Cane Creek.
    I've run 180s on all my bikes for the last 20 years (cept on my dh bike, run 170s), no prob on my Prime.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Gemini2k05 View Post
    Also, that DBair has terrible rebound damping. adjusters are all the way in and still feels like a pogo stick. I'm selling that thing asap. It doesn't work for high spring rates. Maybe softer ones its good.

  • 10-14-2013
    socalMX
    Edited
  • 10-14-2013
    socalMX
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by diablosp View Post
    Here it is, my Rune with a "lightish" build for trail and long enduro routes.

    A bit under 14kg, it feels surprisingly good on the climbs, and planted on the downhills. I'm liking it a lot.


    Bike looks super mean. Awesome!
  • 10-14-2013
    socalMX
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Gemini2k05 View Post
    Also, that DBair has terrible rebound damping. adjusters are all the way in and still feels like a pogo stick. I'm selling that thing asap. It doesn't work for high spring rates. Maybe softer ones its good.

    Had one on my Yeti & it was ok but too hard to get it dialed for me. Loving my Float-X! Pic on previous page.
  • 10-14-2013
    Gemini2k05
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Had one on my Yeti & it was ok but too hard to get it dialed for me. Loving my Float-X! Pic on previous page.

    Yeah I've talked to some people, and they report similar rebound problems. So its definitely not a defective shock. It's also pretty damn linear. Not sure I like that. Might go with xfusion.
  • 10-14-2013
    krf350lv
    1 Attachment(s)
    27.5 Banshee Rune V2
    Almost done. Few upgrades left to do...

    Raw Med. frame
    Pike 160mm
    CCDB Air
    Hope Tech 2s
    Novatec's on Flows
    27.5 Maxxis Highroller II's F&R 2.35 Tubeless
    SLX Cranks with Zee 11-36 Cassette
    MRP G3 w/34t Race Face Ring
    Chris King Inset
    Enduro Ceramic BB
    Crank Brothers Mallet DH Pedals
    Crank Brothers Dropper Post
    SDG Seat
    Straitline 50mm stem
    Renthal Fatbars 780mm 38mm rise w/ODI Rouge Grips

    31.6 lbs as it sits in the attached pic

    SIXC 170mm cranks and KMC X10SL chain sitting in the garage waiting to be installed.
  • 10-15-2013
    builttoride
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Gemini2k05 View Post
    Yeah I've talked to some people, and they report similar rebound problems. So its definitely not a defective shock. It's also pretty damn linear. Not sure I like that. Might go with xfusion.

    If you are finding the DBair too linear for you, it is a 30 second tool free job to add the volume spacers. They can make a significant difference.
  • 10-15-2013
    NoStyle
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    If you are finding the DBair too linear for you, it is a 30 second tool free job to add the volume spacers. They can make a significant difference.

    Exactly this!!! The Spacers add some more Progression to the Mid-Stroke, but mostly the End of Stroke. Itīs really an easy Fix.
  • 10-15-2013
    diablosp
    Re: Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by krj View Post
    How does pike feel on the rune ?

    Is it 26 or 27.5 ?

    I can't comment much on it right now, it's still not broken in.

    But right from the start you feel high sensitivity to small bumps and nice support on the braking. It's also very stiff, I think it matches well with the cane creek double barrel.

    I'll add a more in depth review later when I get a more complete picture of the bike.
  • 10-17-2013
    stunzeed
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    Slacked her out , so much fun. Wheels are temporary until my 650Bs come in.

  • 10-18-2013
    el_guillyt
    A question for Keith: what is the meaning of the "R" marks on the KS links? I just did a 1/2 year maintenance/check and I found confusing those marks, no problem with the lower link, but top link seems symmetrical and the "R" doesn't mean right hand

    Enviado desde mi HTC Desire X usando Tapatalk
  • 10-18-2013
    builttoride
    R= Rune
  • 10-18-2013
    el_guillyt
    Re: Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    R= Rune

    Thanks!

    Enviado desde mi HTC Desire X usando Tapatalk
  • 10-18-2013
    JD Risk
    I didn't compare the geo of the V2 to the V1 but I had a V1 and I feel like the tt is shorter on the V2. The V1 felt perfect. I almost wish my V2 was an XL instead of a L. I'm 6'1'' and the tt feels a bit cramped, causing a little too much of my weight to be on the bars. It's only a problem when my seat is all the way up and I'm on flat ground. Maybe the seat tube angle is steeper on the V2? Anyone else notice this?

    I'm contemplating putting the bike in it's slackest setting, and getting a slightly longer stem with a bit more rise. Right now I have a 50mm stem with no rise and the front end feels really low.
  • 10-18-2013
    builttoride
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by JD Risk View Post
    I didn't compare the geo of the V2 to the V1 but I had a V1 and I feel like the tt is shorter on the V2. The V1 felt perfect. I almost wish my V2 was an XL instead of a L. I'm 6'1'' and the tt feels a bit cramped, causing a little too much of my weight to be on the bars. It's only a problem when my seat is all the way up and I'm on flat ground. Maybe the seat tube angle is steeper on the V2? Anyone else notice this?

    I'm contemplating putting the bike in it's slackest setting, and getting a slightly longer stem with a bit more rise. Right now I have a 50mm stem with no rise and the front end feels really low.

    The V2 does indeed have a steeper seat angle... before you spend any money, try moving your saddle back in the rails and see if that solves it for you.
  • 10-18-2013
    JD Risk
    Thanks for the quick response. I just looked at my saddle and I have plenty of room to go back. By the way, I do like the steep seat angle - when you raise the saddle for climbing you don't end up way back over the rear wheel, which helps a lot when climbing with a slack bike.
  • 10-18-2013
    VoidWanderer
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by JD Risk View Post
    By the way, I do like the steep seat angle - when you raise the saddle for climbing you don't end up way back over the rear wheel, which helps a lot when climbing with a slack bike.

    That was the whole point of steep seat tube, I suppose :)

    I'd like to ask the happy owners of L-sized Runes.
    How deep can you insert the seatpost? With my current bike I can only go 22.5cm (~9 inches) deep and I'm wondering what to expect from L-sized Rune.
  • 10-18-2013
    mantra
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by VoidWanderer View Post
    That was the whole point of steep seat tube, I suppose :)

    I'd like to ask the happy owners of L-sized Runes.
    How deep can you insert the seatpost? With my current bike I can only go 22.5cm (~9 inches) deep and I'm wondering what to expect from L-sized Rune.

    I got my frame today and donīt have a seatpost yet, but it looks like the max is about 30cm for a size L.
  • 10-18-2013
    VoidWanderer
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mantra View Post
    but it looks like the max is about 30cm for a size L.

    That would be really great, but actual measurement will help me a lot :)
  • 10-18-2013
    mantra
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by VoidWanderer View Post
    That would be really great, but actual measurement will help me a lot :)

    You can get that tomorrow.
  • 10-18-2013
    dirtrider76
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 94krawler View Post
    That MRP AMG looks like the way to go. Thanks guys!

    Ehhh so that would have been the easy thing to do. Instead I got a new xxs1 crankset, discarded the spider and ring for a 30t Wolftooth direct mount and havent dropped a chain since. Dropped wieght, no need for a guide(so far anyways) and simple.


    My old 32t Renthal ring with a X9 clutch derailiuer still dropped the chain frequently.
  • 10-19-2013
    mantra
    @VoidWanderer: Sorry mate...the one seatpost I found today is only 27cm long and it drops in all the way. Hope this helps atleast a bit?!
  • 10-19-2013
    VoidWanderer
    This helps a lot!
    It means that I will be perfectly comfortable with L size. Good news :)
  • 10-28-2013
    84532
    Question for you folks...

    I have a 2013 large Rune frame in the stand waiting for parts. I ordered a Rockshox Monarch RT3 for it thru my shop but I never specified the tune or length so I worried that I'll probably be receiving a shock which won't work for this frame. What size/tune should I be getting for this frame? Should I look into another shock altogether like a Float? I live in Moab and weigh about 170-175 with all my gear.
  • 10-28-2013
    hssp
    Why not the Monarch Plus RC3? My opinion is that Float is not enough for these kinds of bikes
  • 10-28-2013
    cockymonster
    Has any of you had a chance to compare the CCDB Air to the Float X in a Rune, or at least in another identical frame?
    My Rune is coming in a few weeks, and I'm still torn what's best for me. Ordered it with the CCDB.
    the bike will be carried a lot, so the weight savings would be nice, but the reason for getting the Rune is that i want a bike with a very good suspension performance for high alpine technical as well as fast riding (very little park riding), so i think i will be happy about the ability to really dial in the shock settings on the CCDB...

    any experience you'd care to share?
    thanks in advance!
  • 10-29-2013
    Nemesis-FIN
    Does anybody ride FOX coil shock with the Rune V2?

    Banshee recommended 350lbs coil for 80kg/ ~175lbs, but with my Trek Remedy I have 500lbs coil, does the Rune KS-linkage differ so much from the Remedy that 350lbs is enough?

    So, please share what coils do you use with the Rune V2, help is appreciated.
  • 10-29-2013
    84532
    ^^ I, too, would like to know about anyone using a coil rear shock. I've always had coil rear shocks and reading about air shocks kinda makes me think I'd prefer to stay with a coil rear shock since I value simplicity and plushness more than weight savings. Seems like air shocks are harder to dial in but like I said I've had zero experience since all my bikes have had a fox coil rear. I'd like to know more about it since you don't really see any Runes with a coil rear. I weigh 155-160 lbs.

    Thanks for the monarch plus suggestion, hssp. I'll look into that as we'll.
  • 10-29-2013
    builttoride
    There is a spring calculator here that is as accurate as you'll need.
    TF Tuned Shox - Spring Calculator

    The rune can be considered as single pivot / DW link on this site, as that is based on leverage curves.

    The reason that the rune doesn't require as heavy a spring as the trek is due to the rune having a lower leverage ratio for better damping performance and lower frame loading.
  • 10-29-2013
    Nemesis-FIN
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    There is a spring calculator here that is as accurate as you'll need.
    TF Tuned Shox - Spring Calculator

    The rune can be considered as single pivot / DW link on this site, as that is based on leverage curves.

    The reason that the rune doesn't require as heavy a spring as the trek is due to the rune having a lower leverage ratio for better damping performance and lower frame loading.

    Whoa, this is nice =) Help from the bike designer, first time for everything I guess. I'll compare other frames with DW/ single pivot and see what coil TF-Tuned suggest for them, thanks for your advice!
  • 10-29-2013
    builttoride
    OH, and just to confirm, the shock stroke is 2.5" and the travel is 6.3".
  • 10-29-2013
    CALULO
    2 Attachment(s)
    First PIC of my green rune

    Attachment 842727
  • 10-30-2013
    sfofan
    Hello bikers,
    I have a few questions about rear shock on rune V2.
    I have fox float ctd on my rune V2. I was setup sag for 28%- its 16,1mm on the rear shock.
    The suspension was too soft ( I don't have problem take bottom out from place-parking place) After this a was setup extremli small sag-5mm on the shock and suspension is little bit harder but it's still too soft, nothing problem to get bottom out on the parking place. I sent the shock to the service if it's everything ok, and everything was OK. I don't know what i can do, I need more progresive shock? ok i have 95kg;) but i think the shock is too linear for the KS link on the rune. do you have similar experiences or not?
    Thanks for info
  • 11-02-2013
    igorl
    Hi All,

    Did anybody ride both Rune V2 and spec enduro (2010+) and can compare the two?
    I'm not able to test rune so I can only go from what I read.

    Do I understand the main differences:
    - better pedaling with Rune
    - enduro more active (up & down)
    - Rune almost as active as enduro on downs, but more fun when things going fast (ie, riding hard)
    - enduro better on slow tech stuff (shorter chainstays)

    Can anybody chip in their thoughts?

    Also, what size do you 5'8" guys riding? I'm thinking M with short stem. Currently on spicy S with 575 mm TT, 385 mm reach using 50 mm stem.

    Thx.
  • 11-02-2013
    mantra
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by igorl View Post
    Hi All,

    Did anybody ride both Rune V2 and spec enduro (2010+) and can compare the two?
    I'm not able to test rune so I can only go from what I read.

    Do I understand the main differences:
    - better pedaling with Rune
    - enduro more active (up & down)
    - Rune almost as active as enduro on downs, but more fun when things going fast (ie, riding hard)
    - enduro better on slow tech stuff (shorter chainstays)

    Can anybody chip in their thoughts?

    Also, what size do you 5'8" guys riding? I'm thinking M with short stem. Currently on spicy S with 575 mm TT, 385 mm reach using 50 mm stem.

    Thx.

    I had a 2011 Enduro and now a 2014 Rune. In between, I rode a 2012 Stumpjumper Evo (with 160mm Lyrik).

    The worst bike out of the three was the Enduro. The most versatile was the Stumpi. I own the Rune only for one week, so I canīt tell much a this time....

    As far as my current impressions go, I would say that the Rune climbs way better than the 2010-2012 Enduro. It accelerates even better than the Stumpi. It is by far the heaviest of all three.
    Itīs rear suspension is in another league than both Specialized bikes, but it feels relatively dead. Hopping from one root to the other is for sure not the strong side of the Rune. Blowing throught rockgardes is it for sure!

    I donīt really know what you mean with "active" but on the ups, the Rune does everything better than the Enduro. On the downs, the Enduro might be a bit more playfull?!

    To me, the Rune feels more like a verry serious DH bike than a AM bike.

    But to set this in context.... The Enduro 2010-2012 was the most crappy bike Iīve ever owend (and I owend alot...)! It had a great geometry but the rear end was a total disappointment!
    If the Rune feels like 160mm travel, the Enduro feels like 120 tops. But compared to other bikes Iīve owend, the Rune feels like more than 160mm.
    Even the Stumpi with a 140mm shocklink made better use of its travel than the Enduro!

    So...my impressions:
    The Rune isnīt as playfull as many other 160mm bikes, but it rips it the moment it gets ugly.
    In my eyes, it does everything alot better than the 2010-2012 Enduro.
    It is verry slack and verry, verry long (mine has a wheelbase of 1195mm with framesize L, 160mm Lyrik with IS headset), so you need a lot of body english to get it arround tight stuff.

    Slow tech stuff...once you sit on the Enduro, it gets verry slack aswell due to its poor rear kinematics... the difference in the rearend length is not that much... I donīt know why the Enduro should handle this better, but till now, I didnīt ride really techy stuff on the rune...

    Size wise...Iīm on the large side of 6.1" and I ride a large. The Stumpi and the Enduro were also large. As is my Demo.

    My impression is, that the Rune runs verry long! Iīve hard times to lift the front wheel of the ground (50mm stem).
    Banshee recomends to the larger size, but I would say if I were your size, I would for sure got with S.
  • 11-03-2013
    leejords
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by igorl View Post
    Hi All,

    Did anybody ride both Rune V2 and spec enduro (2010+) and can compare the two?
    I'm not able to test rune so I can only go from what I read.

    Do I understand the main differences:
    - better pedaling with Rune
    - enduro more active (up & down)
    - Rune almost as active as enduro on downs, but more fun when things going fast (ie, riding hard)
    - enduro better on slow tech stuff (shorter chainstays)

    Can anybody chip in their thoughts?

    Also, what size do you 5'8" guys riding? I'm thinking M with short stem. Currently on spicy S with 575 mm TT, 385 mm reach using 50 mm stem.

    Thx.

    Based on the quote below saying you should be on a small. I have a Small 2013 Rune v2 with CCDB Air, little use, 3 months old with shop receipt about to go on sale if you are interested?

    All the best,

    Lee.
  • 11-03-2013
    84532
    Edited
  • 11-03-2013
    igorl
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by leejords View Post
    Based on the quote below saying you should be on a small. I have a Small 2013 Rune v2 with CCDB Air, little use, 3 months old with shop receipt about to go on sale if you are interested?

    I'm located in Europe, looking to buy local.

    Out of curiosity, why are you selling it?
  • 11-03-2013
    mantra
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by igorl View Post
    I'm located in Europe, looking to buy local.

    Where in Europe? Maybe I can help...
  • 11-04-2013
    leejords
    UK based, selling due to moving up in size.
  • 11-04-2013
    igorl
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by leejords View Post
    UK based, selling due to moving up in size.

    How big are you? It seems I'm always between sizes (S/M) in all frames I've tried. I'd like an 580 ETT with 410 reach.
  • 11-04-2013
    leejords
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by igorl View Post
    How big are you? It seems I'm always between sizes (S/M) in all frames I've tried. I'd like an 580 ETT with 410 reach.

    173cm
  • 11-05-2013
    igorl
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by leejords View Post
    173cm

    Interesting, that's more or less as me. When did you find it short, going up or coming down? What stem where you running and what do you plan to run on M sized one?
  • 11-05-2013
    LP88
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by CALULO View Post
    First PIC of my green rune

    Attachment 842727

    The Rune looks awesome Calulo, loving the green. This thread needs more photos.





  • 11-05-2013
    dirtrider76
    Anyone know what size volume spacer is in the Fox CTD that comes with the Rune?
  • 11-06-2013
    DeanFBM
    How do these feel in comparison to an SB66?

    I want a bike when fitted with different wheels/forks, can go for a comfortable few hour pedal in the hills and can survive bike park hucks all day.

    I currently have a Alu SB66 in small, my shortlist is -

    1. SB66 carbon med (larger size for stability, carbon for strength and weight)
    2. Banshee rune v2 Med (stability and strength, saves money)

    How ell do these runes go uphill, anywhere near approaching an SB66, particularly out of the saddle?
  • 11-06-2013
    dzdale
    RUNE 2014 - Seatpost Question
    Hi All , just ordered a Flouro Green 2014 XL Frame , very exited to get it but have a few weeks to wait. In the meantime I need to get all the other bits together.

    Will the 150mm RockShox Reverb Stealth fit comfortably (i.e. not much sticking out of the top tube.) I like to run my seat as low as possible. I guess what Im really asking is what is the length of the reverb below the collar, and will this fit in the XL seatube.
    Bear in mind the total length is 430mm

    Thanks
    Dale
  • 11-06-2013
    mantra
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dzdale View Post
    Hi All , just ordered a Flouro Green 2014 XL Frame , very exited to get it but have a few weeks to wait. In the meantime I need to get all the other bits together.

    Will the 150mm RockShox Reverb Stealth fit comfortably (i.e. not much sticking out of the top tube.) I like to run my seat as low as possible. I guess what Im really asking is what is the length of the reverb below the collar, and will this fit in the XL seatube.
    Bear in mind the total length is 430mm

    Thanks
    Dale

    On a large frame you can insert the seatpost about 300mm so I would guess even more on a XL.

    As far as I know, the Reverb isnīt available in 150mm for 30,9mm diameter anymore?!
  • 11-06-2013
    leejords
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by igorl View Post
    Interesting, that's more or less as me. When did you find it short, going up or coming down? What stem where you running and what do you plan to run on M sized one?

    Was running a 50mm Thomson stem and it felt short coming down. Will be running a 50mm on the medium.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  • 11-07-2013
    Jalafer
    One question for the Banshee people.
    Would it be possible in a Banshee Rune V2 2013 to make (professionaly) drilling the seat tube in order to use the reverb stealth ?
  • 11-07-2013
    NoStyle
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Jalafer View Post
    One question for the Banshee people.
    Would it be possible in a Banshee Rune V2 2013 to make (professionaly) drilling the seat tube in order to use the reverb stealth ?

    Yes! Look a few Pages back in the "2013 Spitfire-Thread" ...
  • 11-07-2013
    builttoride
    In most frames there is no need to drill anything if you want to run a stealth seatpost. Check for a hole into the bottom of the seat tube from above the BB pivot. You can run a stealth routing through this without any issues. Drilling a hole in the frame will void warranty I'm afraid, as it is to be reinforced and drilling has to be temperature controlled, or frame re heat treated to ensure strength remains.
  • 11-07-2013
    Jalafer
    OK, thank you for the answer.
  • 11-08-2013
    NoStyle
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    In most frames there is no need to drill anything if you want to run a stealth seatpost. Check for a hole into the bottom of the seat tube from above the BB pivot. You can run a stealth routing through this without any issues. Drilling a hole in the frame will void warranty I'm afraid, as it is to be reinforced and drilling has to be temperature controlled, or frame re heat treated to ensure strength remains.

    Oh well, good Info Keith. There were Rumors that adequate done Drilling in the right Place would cause no Trouble to the Frame!

    @ Jalafer
    Please check the 2013 Spitfire again, because someone did the Cable-Routing the way described by Keith, including Pictures!
  • 11-08-2013
    glassphisheye
    1 Attachment(s)
    My Rune Build
  • 11-09-2013
    AllenB69
    Loving all these Runes! Got a Spitfire atm, but sellin got pay for a Rune. The bike I should have got from the word go!
  • 11-09-2013
    BeezKneez
    Where are you and what size do you run at the moment?
    I have Rune bot sometimes I think a Spitfire would do the Job aswell...
  • 11-09-2013
    AllenB
    Hey I run a large
  • 11-11-2013
    CALULO
    3 Attachment(s)
    Thanx here are some more pics ...
    Attachment 846220Attachment 846221Attachment 846222
  • 11-12-2013
    AllenB
    That's naughty!!
  • 11-12-2013
    dzdale
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by CALULO View Post
    Thanx here are some more pics ...

    Awesome Bike , Mine is arriving in 1 week :) ... Has anyone got any experience fitting an e-thirteen LG1 chainguide to a rune, will it fit or is there some magic involved ;)
  • 11-13-2013
    bmunz
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dzdale View Post
    Awesome Bike , Mine is arriving in 1 week :) ... Has anyone got any experience fitting an e-thirteen LG1 chainguide to a rune, will it fit or is there some magic involved ;)

    I have one on last year's Rune V2, and it fits perfectly. The LG1+ came with 2 different sized spacers, but one was a little too thin and one a little too thick. I just got some washers from home depot (size M6), which was the perfect size to keep the chain from rubbing against the plastic when on the smallest or largest cog.
  • 11-13-2013
    dzdale
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by bmunz View Post
    I have one on last year's Rune V2, and it fits perfectly. The LG1+ came with 2 different sized spacers, but one was a little too thin and one a little too thick. I just got some washers from home depot (size M6), which was the perfect size to keep the chain from rubbing against the plastic when on the smallest or largest cog.

    Thanks bmunz , just the info I need :)
  • 11-13-2013
    dzdale
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by bmunz View Post
    I have one on last year's Rune V2, and it fits perfectly. The LG1+ came with 2 different sized spacers, but one was a little too thin and one a little too thick. I just got some washers from home depot (size M6), which was the perfect size to keep the chain from rubbing against the plastic when on the smallest or largest cog.

    Thanks bmunz , thats just what I was looking for :)
  • 11-14-2013
    BeezKneez
    I recently put a lg1 tr on my rune.
    Had to put the lower pulley to the wide angle setting.
    Went on nicely.
  • 11-14-2013
    leejords
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    My Wife's 2014 Banshee Rune ready to Roll for the upcoming Enduro season. Weight: 29lbs. Hope you like the photos,
    All the best,
    Lee.





    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  • 11-14-2013
    JansonJanson
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BeezKneez View Post
    I recently put a lg1 tr on my rune.
    Had to put the lower pulley to the wide angle setting.
    Went on nicely.

    got one of them on my rune, too.
    but i stuck with the BB Mount, so i could adjust it even better!
  • 11-14-2013
    ILVMTB
    leejords, you just built my dream bike...
  • 11-14-2013
    NoStyle
    Just asking while interested: Is this Orange a Custom-Color? Or available in a limited Production-Run?

  • 11-14-2013
    builttoride
    We will be shipping a limited run of orange runes soon... (this frame pictured was a proto sample).
  • 11-15-2013
    AllenB
    Such a rad colour!!
  • 11-15-2013
    hssp
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by leejords View Post
    My Wife's 2014 Banshee Rune ready to Roll for the upcoming Enduro season. Weight: 29lbs. Hope you like the photos,
    All the best,
    Lee.

    How did it get so light weight? My '14 Spitty with carbon wheels is heavier. Ok, a bit heavier fork, but still. (ok, and a large frame)
  • 11-15-2013
    Nemesis-FIN
    Keith, please phone Jay and tell him to find out where my frame went or have him send another frame ASAP.

    I've now waited three weeks for a frame that had 10 day delivery time, the parcel is missing and nobody seems to know where it is. To my opinion that is Banshee's problem and you can sort it out as long as you like but do not expect me to wait too.

    I want value for the money I've payed.
  • 11-15-2013
    builttoride
    I've spoken to Jay and he is chasing up the shippers for you for info... he said he would email you with an update when he had it. We suspect that it is stuck in customs.
  • 11-15-2013
    Nemesis-FIN
    Great, if customs are the hold up reason I trust that it gets solved soon, Thank you Keith!

    BTW, that orange color is even more brutal as the green I ordered, can't you people announce the *special* -colors at your front page, so that it would be possible to order one ;)
  • 11-15-2013
    leejords
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hssp View Post
    How did it get so light weight? My '14 Spitty with carbon wheels is heavier. Ok, a bit heavier fork, but still. (ok, and a large frame)

    Probably as iv tried to save weight everywhere mate but keep it strong also. Easton Havoc Carbon bars, xx1, Crossmax Enduro wheels, really light pike fork and even the XO trail carbon brakes are silly light.

    Is your build on he spitty similar?

    All the best,
    Lee.
  • 11-15-2013
    hssp
    I have Syntace carbon handlebar, 1500g wheelset, XX1, Lyrik (with AVA), tubeless... Check my instagram @krecket for some (bad) pics
  • 11-15-2013
    leejords
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hssp View Post
    I have Syntace carbon handlebar, 1500g wheelset, XX1, Lyrik (with AVA), tubeless... Check my instagram @krecket for some (bad) pics

    Added you mate,
    leejords

    You got a 2013 spitty or 14? Heard the 14 frames have shed a bit of weight, or so the distributor for the Uk told me.

    All the best,
    Lee.
  • 11-15-2013
    hssp
    '14 Spitty. Still heavy as f..
  • 11-18-2013
    T.PEDRO
    Hi Keith,

    Please can you tell me what is the best choice between a 30T ring and a 32T ring for the Rune v2 if I want to go on 1x10 speeds ?

    I will have a 11-42 cog on the rear and want to have the best ring on the front for the KS-Link kinematic.

    Thanks.
  • 11-18-2013
    mantra
    I run 32t up front and 11-42t 10speed in the rear with no issues.

    If you are on 26" wheels, than 30t might be a bit small?!
  • 11-18-2013
    T.PEDRO
    Ok
    I don't know which is better for the KS Link.

    It's your first transmission on the Rune v2?
  • 11-18-2013
    AllenB
    I think the rune is built around 34-36 and prime 32t
  • 11-18-2013
    mantra
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by T.PEDRO View Post
    Ok
    I don't know which is better for the KS Link.

    If I remember that right...Keith has posted something about chainring sizes somewhere in this thread?!

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by T.PEDRO View Post
    It's your first transmission on the Rune v2?

    No. I had a 2x10 (24/36t; 11-36t) setup in the first place.
  • 11-18-2013
    AdrianoMTB
    6 Attachment(s)
    Hi guys! from the first rune i Posted it here... here it comes my new one... ;)

    Flow ex 650b rims
    size L
    x01 full black
    R.S Pike rt3
    ccdb air cs
  • 11-18-2013
    CALULO
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by AllenB View Post
    I think the rune is built around 34-36 and prime 32t

    I swapped from 2 rings to xx1 and i have 30t, It has cost me to get used to, after 3 month I think I can try the 32t, but I can't find the right time ...
  • 11-18-2013
    builttoride
    As with any design, there is no magic chainring size number (no matter what people tell you) as it changes depending on how much sag you run, and what gear you are in... that said the optimal range for spitfire and rune is roughly 30-36 tooth (26-32 for prime), so you can go anywhere in this range. Personally I have 34 tooth chainring with XX1 setup on my spitfire and like that... but I've never been a spinner.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by T.PEDRO View Post
    Hi Keith,

    Please can you tell me what is the best choice between a 30T ring and a 32T ring for the Rune v2 if I want to go on 1x10 speeds ?

    I will have a 11-42 cog on the rear and want to have the best ring on the front for the KS-Link kinematic.

    Thanks.

  • 11-19-2013
    T.PEDRO
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    As with any design, there is no magic chainring size number (no matter what people tell you) as it changes depending on how much sag you run, and what gear you are in... that said the optimal range for spitfire and rune is roughly 30-36 tooth (26-32 for prime), so you can go anywhere in this range. Personally I have 34 tooth chainring with XX1 setup on my spitfire and like that... but I've never been a spinner.

    Ok thanks, I will try the two sizes on the bike. With some bikes (like the Legend) there is more or less kickback depending on the selected ring.
  • 11-19-2013
    T.PEDRO
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mantra View Post

    No. I had a 2x10 (24/36t; 11-36t) setup in the first place.


    Ok I have a 2x10v = 24x38t ; 11-36t on my Rune v2 and I'm waiting for my new transmission 1x10v = 32t ; 11-42t. I hope the 32t will not be too hard when i have to climb long time on the bike.

    What do you feel with the 32t ? Do you have enough speed when downhill and it's not too hard when you uphill ?
  • 11-19-2013
    RollingRevolution
    Assuming you're on 26" wheels your current range is around 17-90 gear inches.

    With a 32t front ring you'll be getting around 19-75 on an 11-42 cassette.
    With a 30t front ring it'll be 18-72

    On with your low end gears you'll have pretty much the same climbing ability as your 2x10 setup, where you'll notice the difference more is top end speed.
  • 11-19-2013
    T.PEDRO
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by inkisink View Post
    Assuming you're on 26" wheels your current range is around 17-90 gear inches.

    With a 32t front ring you'll be getting around 19-75 on an 11-42 cassette.
    With a 30t front ring it'll be 18-72

    On with your low end gears you'll have pretty much the same climbing ability as your 2x10 setup, where you'll notice the difference more is top end speed.

    Hi inkisink,
    yes I'm in 26" wheels. Thanks for your answer there is not much difference between a 30t and a 32t for climbing so I will buy a 32t for my first test.