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  1. #1201
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    Hey, dont quote me on this (I may be wrong) but I recently changed from a Fox CTD to a CCDB-A on my Rune and had to buy a new mounting kit. I was told the older Fox RP23's use the same spacing as the CCDBA but not the newer Float CTD shocks. And for what its worth, I'm finding the CCDBA way nicer than the Fox for my style of riding and terrain (Vancouver's North Shore). The Fox felt a little harsh and couldnt achieve full travel, the CC is super plush even with the regular can.

  2. #1202
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    so i have a question.

    how many of you riders are taking your runes into a bike park?

    i live near philly and have another bike, but i want to use this bike for rough trails and bike parks such as spring mtn, blue and mountain creek.

    i emailed banshee directly and somebody told me that this model is not recommend for a bike park, but i see a couple of you in a bike park. how are your bikes holding up? how many of you are riding 180 coil forks? do you find 180 too much for trail riding?
    2017 XL Santa Cruz Tallboy

  3. #1203
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    Who told you that the Rune has no official permission for the park? Banshee? I thought regular park visits pose no problem for the Rune... can anyone shed some light on this?

  4. #1204
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    Also surprised to read that! I thought it was designed to shred parks and many other abuses...

  5. #1205
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    Quote Originally Posted by guswalls View Post
    ... i emailed banshee directly and somebody told me that this model is not recommend for a bike park, but i see a couple of you in a bike park ...
    Not recommend does not mean itīs not allowed and is going to void Warranty, right? Even the Banshee-Guys tested the Runes in Parks and on local Downhills ...
    The Rune is an AM/Enduro-Bike, not a dedicated Park-Bike like the Scythe or Wildcard! It has got another Purpose, thatīs it. Hell - Iīm riding my Spitfire in Bike-Parks ... depending on the Trails I have to be more or less carefull.

  6. #1206
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    The Rune V2 can cope with the odd park day, but it is not a park bike as such, it's an all mountain machine.
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  7. #1207
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    I don't think that 3.3 kilos worth of rune frame cannot withstand what 3.3 kilos worth of trek session frame can...

    EDIT: changed: trek session frame cannot... to :trek session frame can...
    Last edited by uzurpator; 06-28-2013 at 04:09 PM.

  8. #1208
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    But the session is designed specifically for DH, the rune is designed for all mountain / enduro. I just want to make it clear that the rune is not a DH frame and setting up with tripple clamp forks will void warranty. If a customer is looking for a bike to be used mainly for park riding and DH, then they should get a bike designed for that purpose like the legend, scythe or wildcard. If you want a bike to ride all mountain, enduro and the odd days XC or bikepark then the Rune V2 is a great opton.
    Last edited by builttoride; 06-14-2013 at 07:33 AM.
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  9. #1209
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    Saying that the Rune is an All Mountain bike is a huge understatement

    Only a few more lines of code to add at work, then it's rise and shine again for the beast. Can't wait to hit the woods!

  10. #1210
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    But the session is designed specifically for DH, the rune is designed for all mountain / enduro. I just want to make it clear that the rune is not a DH frame and setting up with tripple clamp forks will void warranty, if a customer is looking for a bike to be used mainly for park riding and DH, then they should get a bike designed for that purpose like the legend, scythe or wildcard. If yu want a bike to ride all mountain, enduro and the odd days XC or bikepark then the Rune V2 is a great opton.
    I think we first need to define what "all mountain" is. Take a look at this ( it is a footage of the winner of a race I attended a month ago ( my score was 75% of the winner, btw. A honorary 120th place ( for 170 attendees ) ):

    Enduro Trophy Wilkowice 2013. OES 1 Kamera Remik - YouTube

    EDIT: Action starts at 1:10

    We call this "beskidian chopfest" and these are normal riding conditions of people around here. People ride this with 140-160mm travel bikes in excess of 30mph.

    Anyhow. In comprison, most bike parks I have seen have either flowy engineered jumps and such or are, honestly, no worse then the above. The only bike park I actually rode was like a smooth rollercoaster in comparison to my typical riding conditions.

    How I see it. Rune does not have the reinforcements around the headtube to run a dual crown fork. So running such will eventually cause stress cracks around the HT and damage the frame in the longer run. Obviously Rune has less travel, and probably slightly different rear suspension setup. But when set up correctly it should withstand whatever Session does. And Session, being the tin-can it is, can take some serious beating before giving up.

  11. #1211
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    Itīs just pretty simple:
    Banshee donīt want Riders to put any larger Forks than 18 cm Travel on the Rune - no 20 cm Tripple-Crown Forks, or 18 cm Forks with -2 Deg Angleset - to slacken it out to the max. Then Riders smashing the Shit out of it, regardless of Park or Hometrail, may break it and start Shitstorms when Banshee tells them theyīre out of Warranty ...
    The intended Use of the Rune is Trail/AM/Enduro - not Bikepark-Only. If you want that thereīs the Scythe, or maybe a KS-Link Scythe in the Future, or the Legend, or the Wildcard.

  12. #1212
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    If you want a bike to ride all mountain, enduro and the odd days XC or bikepark then the Rune V2 is a great opton.
    This is exactly what I wanted in a bike and the Rune was the best bike for this category. I do tend to do a bit of park riding, but on more 'flow' style trails where the Rune really shines. I have a purpose built DH bike for the more serious side of things and there is no way my lightish AM built would hold up to - and whats the piont of a DH orientated Rune build - you lose everything good about the bike.

  13. #1213
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    Picked up my Rune yesterday - very happy bunny so far.



    Here is a link to a thread on Retrobike with lots of pics etc.

    It's black, long, low and slack - my 2013 Banshee Rune V2 | Retrobike

    Just need to hurry up and get it built now!

  14. #1214
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    During sag tuning have founded that Rune V.2 could be mounted with 222*70mm shock. Rear travel should be 178mm, BB height can be adjusted by droputs in slacker position. Picture shows measurement between shock and seat tube 8mm space(6 mm hex for scale) and between seat tube and rear triangle 10-11mm space.
    What do you thinking about it?


  15. #1215
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    hummm you can compensate for changes in the static geometry (the numbers you measure when not riding the bike), changing the length of the shock will also affect the leverage ratio curve. This could lead to drastic changes in the dynamic geometry of the bike...
    This could lead to poor handling and less control. Increasing the shock length will decrease your leverage ratio (at least during the first inches of travel. I don't know how the rest of the curve behaves). No good for me...

  16. #1216
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    superQ, I have same things but maybe builttoride can exactly clarify this issue?

  17. #1217
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    I would definitely not recommend running a 222/70 shock on the rune V2 as it will not only upset the linkage kinematics and frame geometry to result in poor performance, but it will aso load the frame in ways it was not designed for which could cause failures. Running any shock size other than the specified length will viod warranty for these reasons.
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  18. #1218
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    I really don't understand why you want to fit a longer shock...if you want to have a longer travel bike, just buy a longer travel bike, it will have better performance than a "modified" rune

  19. #1219
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    My Rune is all finsihed now and has been on a couple of rides and so far I'm really happy with it. The rear end generates a whole lot of grip compared to my SX when climbing and is great fun descending. I'll get some pics up later.

    My only issue with ot so far has been installing my chain dervice and cranks. I run an E13 LG1 Trail chain device with Atlas AM cranks and had loads of issues with the cranks / chainring bottoming out in the back plate of the chain dervice. I have filed the granny ring tabs down as much as I can and I was still getting the same issue. In the end I moved the bottom bracket spacer over from the none drive side to the drive side. This has resolved the issue but given me a not so great chainline.

    Any advice on what others have done would be appreciated. My plan in the future is to dicth the full chain device for a direct mount top guide, a thick thin chainring and a clutch mech. However in the short term, I woud like to improve my chain line.

    The issue that I can see is that the ISCG05 tabs sit right in the edge of the BB whereas the old ISCG tabs on my SX trail sat back around 2.5mm. I know that its not Banshee's fault that the industry has moved to the newer standard.

  20. #1220
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    Carefully hone down the ISCG-Tabs till they are nearly flush to the Plate, which is about 2,5 - 3 mm. Done this on my Spitfire. Itīs easier to space outwards if necessary than inwards ...

  21. #1221
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    Quote Originally Posted by el_guillyt View Post
    I really don't understand why you want to fit a longer shock...if you want to have a longer travel bike, just buy a longer travel bike, it will have better performance than a "modified" rune
    I do not want to put into Rune other shock, it's only my observation of possibility to do this.

  22. #1222
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    What pressure do you recommend on the Float CTD for a 82-85 kg guy + equipment?

    I have between 25-30% of sag and the rear shock feels harsh compared to my V1 Spitfire...

  23. #1223
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Carefully hone down the ISCG-Tabs till they are nearly flush to the Plate, which is about 2,5 - 3 mm. Done this on my Spitfire. Itīs easier to space outwards if necessary than inwards ...
    I thought about that but the tabs don't seem that thick and I was worried that a knock to the chain device could damage them and that my warranty would be invalidated if I filed them down.

    Here are a couple of pics of the finished bike.











    Overall I'm very happy, just need to sort out the chaining issues. The other slight snag is the rear hub; when it was run as a QR one it was mega smooth and spun for ages but since swapping it to a 142x12mm bolt through, to get rid of the play it needs nipping up quite a lot and doesn't spin as well and the bearings feel ever so slightly notchy. I'm hoping that a bit of fiddling and it'll be nice and smooth again.

  24. #1224
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    with substantial money spent on a custom built Rune, do you guys think a 30 pound Rune is within reason? trying to make it as 'trail bike' friendly for all around climbing and riding, we know how it descends. lightish wheels (Arch's etc) and carefully chosen spec? it's just that some seem to be coming in around 35 and can't shave 5 pounds while the Pinkbike tester was 31 and change and could easily lose a pound or more off that build.

  25. #1225
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    Quote Originally Posted by cunningstunts View Post
    with substantial money spent on a custom built Rune, do you guys think a 30 pound Rune is within reason? trying to make it as 'trail bike' friendly for all around climbing and riding, we know how it descends. lightish wheels (Arch's etc) and carefully chosen spec? it's just that some seem to be coming in around 35 and can't shave 5 pounds while the Pinkbike tester was 31 and change and could easily lose a pound or more off that build.
    Mine weighs in at 33lbs. If I wanted to trim weight off it I would consider losing the coil 36's, the full chain guide, a lighter cassette (its only an SLX), the Answer bars are quite portly so maybe some carbon ones and ditch the Reverb and Charge Knife for an I beam post with a I-Fly saddle. The Cane Creek shock is also a fair bit heavier than the Fox CTD. The ano frame is lighter than the painted ones too.

    Personally I wouldn't lose the dropper or my coil forks because they work so well. I'd weight is your key driver, would you be better looking at the Spitfire?

  26. #1226
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    It can definitely be done. I imagine an ano frame w/ a light wheelset, light tires, rock shox pike, and sram xx1 would tip the scales at sub 30 no problem. The spitfire frame is only about .5 lb lighter, and there's quite a few sub30 Spittys that have been posted.

  27. #1227
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    My medium V2 build is here My medium V2 build is here pinkbike.com/photo/9255437/ just add www then .

    29 lb 15oz

  28. #1228
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    For a 5'6 rider. Can he get away with medium frame and 35mm stem?
    or small frame with 50mm will be better fit? Thanks

  29. #1229
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    To give you an idea, I'm 5.8 and riding a large with 30mm stem and fits perfect, from my experience and my personal preferences I would recommend a medium, I used to ride mediums but, I always felt a bit stucked, and start to thing to better go for a larger bike, and with this large rune I just spotted on!

  30. #1230
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    I'm 5 11 and 1/2 and ride a large with a 50mm stem and 780mm bars. Technically I am just in the limit for what many people say or a medium but I find them too short especially now teat tubes are getting steeper.

    My previous bike was a medium SX Trail and the Rune fits much better. Despite being heavier I was faster in the combs on my local route which I think is due to better traction and having more to breath and move about.

  31. #1231
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    The Rune V2 can cope with the odd park day...
    Agreed!

    (me in Saalbach, Austria).

    Guys, do you have any recommendations for a reasonably priced coil shock for the Rune V2? I'd like to go easy on the CTD and use something more suitable for the occasional park rides.

  32. #1232
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    Quote Originally Posted by eightyfive View Post
    For a 5'6 rider. Can he get away with medium frame and 35mm stem?
    or small frame with 50mm will be better fit? Thanks
    I'm 5'7 (172cm) on M with 40mm stem and 740mm bars.
    Was riding 50mm stem, now find the 40mm feels better in steeper fast technical stuff.

    I wouldn't change to S. If your torso and arms are long with short legs (like me!), and you like short stem and long bike for descending then you'd probably just get away with a M.
    Must be a limit and people riding S? We all seem to be erring on the larger sizes where possible..

  33. #1233
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    Hi everyone, im pretty much sold on getting a Rune. I test rode a large recently but will get an XL (im 189cm)

    However, can you tell me about linkage bearings as running costs are a big deal for me?

    Have you experienced any play?
    are replacement bearings easy to get hold of and cheap? (I believe they're 6600 so should be easy)
    can you replace bearings easily (I have a bearing press) i.e. do you need to remove the rear triangle, front mech
    how many different sizes of bearings are there? plus what are the bearing numbers/bore diameters?

    many thanks

  34. #1234
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    Changed up a few things. Swapped out the Straitline stem, RF Atlas bars, and the 28T Bling for Some RF SIXC carbon handlebars, Atlas stem and a 30T Bling ring. Also did a full overhaul on the bike. Riding over the wet winters we have here in Oregon is killer on bearings and such. Fresh and ready for Summer. Loving this bike. A few pics from yesterday:

















  35. #1235
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    Why did you swap out your stems?


    looks good!

  36. #1236
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    anybody know what the shock bolts and dropouts are supposed to be torqued to thanks

  37. #1237
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    12Nm for dropout bolts and rear shock bolt
    10Nm for DT shock mount bolt
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  38. #1238
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    12Nm for dropout bolts and rear shock bolt
    10Nm for DT shock mount bolt
    thank you

  39. #1239
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    Hey Darkslide, are there any chain rub issues with the 28t Bling Ring? I've been thinking about that same set up(or maybe 26t) with an MRP Micro, but those chainstays are so low. Can you even fit a chain guide under there?

  40. #1240
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  41. #1241
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amukinado View Post
    What pressure do you recommend on the Float CTD for a 82-85 kg guy + equipment?

    I have between 25-30% of sag and the rear shock feels harsh compared to my V1 Spitfire...
    I'm around 190lb (~86 kg) ride weight and I originally set my CTD shock at 270psi (!!) to get the correct indicated sag, but that was way too harsh. I now ride between 235-250psi (more frequently at the lower pressure unless I'm riding at the bike parks), and the bike is nice and smoove. There may have been some break-in required. I haven't measured the sag recently at that setting, but I don't feel like I've lost too much travel, and there's virtually no bob even climbing in the descend mode.

  42. #1242
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    Anyone looking for a xl black ano frame with CCDB and 650 dropouts let me know. Frame is still brand new.Just received my hospital bill.

  43. #1243
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    12Nm for dropout bolts and rear shock bolt
    10Nm for DT shock mount bolt
    Did this change Keith? I am pretty sure there is another post where you had stated 16nm for the rear shock bolt and 8nm for the front shock bolt.


    This post

    "
    Sorry, I must have been really tired when I wrote that. max 15Nm for the back 8mm shock bolt into RT, 8Nm for front 8mm shock axle... corrected that now. Thanks for questioning!



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  44. #1244
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    Re: Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

    XL. Me likes. Best bike I've had for climbing. 150mm rear end. King on Flow ex. Sent fork and shock to Avy. 36.5 pounds. I'm 230+ so I wasn't really trying to keep the weight down.

    Sent from my phablet with Tapatalk 2
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-uploadfromtaptalk1373844835924.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-uploadfromtaptalk1373844858627.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-uploadfromtaptalk1373844871958.jpg  


  45. #1245
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Did this change Keith? I am pretty sure there is another post where you had stated 16nm for the rear shock bolt and 8nm for the front shock bolt.


    This post

    "
    Sorry, I must have been really tired when I wrote that. max 15Nm for the back 8mm shock bolt into RT, 8Nm for front 8mm shock axle... corrected that now. Thanks for questioning!
    The material has changed to a harder steel for the front shock bolt so it can take a little more torque to be a bit more secure. While the rear shock bolt can take 15Nm max, 12Nm is what I run and recommend.

    I also recommend running temp loctite on all bolts to prevent them loosening on the trail. Some PTFE tape wrapped round the thread does a similar job but is a little more fiddly.
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  46. #1246
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    The material has changed to a harder steel for the front shock bolt so it can take a little more torque to be a bit more secure. While the rear shock bolt can take 15Nm max, 12Nm is what I run and recommend.

    I also recommend running temp loctite on all bolts to prevent them loosening on the trail. Some PTFE tape wrapped round the thread does a similar job but is a little more fiddly.
    Keith, it would be really cool if such (important) infos about eg. torque for bolt xy could be found on the banshee sites aswell (maybe in the empty FAQ section?) for at least the newer bikes, e.g. spitty, rune, prime. Would it be possible to add it ?

  47. #1247
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkey View Post
    Keith, it would be really cool if such (important) infos about eg. torque for bolt xy could be found on the banshee sites aswell (maybe in the empty FAQ section?) for at least the newer bikes, e.g. spitty, rune, prime. Would it be possible to add it ?
    We are working on this for our new website...
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  48. #1248
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    We are working on this for our new website...
    perfect, thx!

  49. #1249
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    Question to all CCDBA users:
    I finally got CCDB Air for my Rune. I am easily 220 lbs with gear and like to push it on the climbs. In order to get the correct SAG I had to put approx. 160psi in the shock. Then I had to max the LSC to get rid of some of that annoying bobbing.

    Would installing the volume reducer change the way the shock behaves under pedalling power?

  50. #1250
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    Quote Originally Posted by XavM View Post
    Question to all CCDBA users:
    I finally got CCDB Air for my Rune. I am easily 220 lbs with gear and like to push it on the climbs. In order to get the correct SAG I had to put approx. 160psi in the shock. Then I had to max the LSC to get rid of some of that annoying bobbing.

    Would installing the volume reducer change the way the shock behaves under pedalling power?
    Cane Creek have 'The Lounge' where you can post your settings etc and Cane Creek will respond directly, great getting feedback from them.
    The Lounge | Rider Forums | Banshee

    If you are setting LSC fully closed with the sag set correctly as you said then Cane Creek might suggest the new DBAir CS (climb switch)!
    Adding a volume reducer is meant to firm up the suspension towards the end of stroke I think rather than beginning for pedalling...

    How does the bike feel with LSC at max when descending?
    I added one or two clicks of LSC from the base tune (10 from open Cane Creek DBAIR Suspension Base Tunes) and that was enough, still bobs a bit but I can live with it.

  51. #1251
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    Quote Originally Posted by XavM View Post
    Question to all CCDBA users:
    I finally got CCDB Air for my Rune. I am easily 220 lbs with gear and like to push it on the climbs. In order to get the correct SAG I had to put approx. 160psi in the shock. Then I had to max the LSC to get rid of some of that annoying bobbing.

    Would installing the volume reducer change the way the shock behaves under pedalling power?
    For my Spitfire I took the CCDB-Air as it is due to Volume-Spacers, tuned in the Base-Tune and set it correctly to Sag. After some Rides I added 3 Clicks LSC and LSR and the Bobbing was reduced to a minimum. Others added 4 Clicks LSC and LSR, but maybe this helps ...
    As ptd has mentioned: Adding a volume reducer is meant to firm up the suspension towards the end of stroke rather than beginning for pedalling.

  52. #1252
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    Ready to roll:


  53. #1253
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    The material has changed to a harder steel for the front shock bolt so it can take a little more torque to be a bit more secure. While the rear shock bolt can take 15Nm max, 12Nm is what I run and recommend.

    I also recommend running temp loctite on all bolts to prevent them loosening on the trail. Some PTFE tape wrapped round the thread does a similar job but is a little more fiddly.
    Kieth do you mean it is now a harder steel then the earlier V2runes? I am confused you had wrote this about the V2 frames Earlier in the year, so if I should use 12nm in the rear now what actual number are you recommending for the front shock mount?

    Thank you

  54. #1254
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    My Rune is finished...

    Here is my new Rune...29lb 3 oz ready to ride...

    - Raceface SixC cranks with Narrow Wide ring and XX1 drive.
    - SixC DH bars.
    - KS post and SDG saddle.
    - Chromag stem.
    - Hope Brakes, EVO M4 front and EVO X2 rear.
    - Stans Arch EX wheels, Stans hubs. Hans D. front and Ardent rear.
    -Crank Bro Candy Pedals.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2013-07-23-00.38.50.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-2013-07-23-00.37.18.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune-sm-2.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune-sm-1.jpg  


  55. #1255
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    Dam kiwanoran that almost makes me embarrassed to post mine! I kid...Super nice setup & weight!


    I finally bought a Rune after months of lurking. I wanted to try the 650b thing and this deal fell in my lap! Picked up this large raw 27.5 Rune with Stans wheels and full XT kit for $3200 slightly used (good deal?). First ride today and loving the new wheel size so far as it picks up speed fast and just freight trains downhill. Hittin a bike park Friday. Sits at 32lbs 10oz. Here it is with my Yeti ASR-7!

  56. #1256
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    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune01.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune02.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune06.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune07.jpgBanshee Rune V2 Build Thread-rune10.jpg

    My Rune with some updates.
    Last edited by uzurpator; 08-13-2013 at 02:21 PM.

  57. #1257
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    Can Zee RD can handle dual front ring setup?

  58. #1258
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    It cannot. However, I have all the rear gears available when on the big ring and bottom three ( largest cogs ) when on the granny, which covers the gears I use completely.

  59. #1259
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    I was thinking to do the same setup but hesitate. Great to hear that someone actually doing it. Thanks

  60. #1260
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    Rememeber the check that the rear dereailleur can cope with the added chainstretch when suspension is fully compressed by taking air out of the shock and cycling through travel... this is a really important thing to consider when choosing chain length and setup that is sometimes overlooked.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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  61. #1261
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    It can cope just fine I always size the chain with the suspension fully compressed

  62. #1262
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    Have had my large Rune for under a week and loving it. Question, was at the bike park yesterday and at times there was a strange clunk like kick back on the rebound of the rear when deep in the travel. Is this normal? Running a CTD with 2x10 drive.

  63. #1263
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Have had my large Rune for under a week and loving it. Question, was at the bike park yesterday and at times there was a strange clunk like kick back on the rebound of the rear when deep in the travel. Is this normal? Running a CTD with 2x10 drive.

    I also experience this- thought it was chain slap/clunk on hard hits, so I installed a C guide. It's very quiet now, but there is still some kind of hard clunk/or 'pack up' on square edge impacts. It's not bottom out on the CCDBA I've watched the 'O" ring carefully. I run slightly slow rebound (high and low speed) for booters and better tracking through chunder.

  64. #1264
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    Quote Originally Posted by djball View Post
    I also experience this- thought it was chain slap/clunk on hard hits, so I installed a C guide. It's very quiet now, but there is still some kind of hard clunk/or 'pack up' on square edge impacts. It's not bottom out on the CCDBA I've watched the 'O" ring carefully. I run slightly slow rebound (high and low speed) for booters and better tracking through chunder.
    Went for a quick ride this AM and looked down while this was happening & noticed the chain retracting. Going with a type 2 clutch derailleur & single speed XX1 crankset so hoping it disappears.

  65. #1265
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    The "clunk" could be attributed to a clutch style derailleur (if you have one) but it could also be the DU bushings on the shock. I have actually felt the "clunk" since day one on my bike and have recently discovered that it is due to the DU bushings on my Fox CTD. I have some new bushings on order so we shall see if this proves to be the fix to my ghost clunking.

  66. #1266
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    Curious if you guys with the "clunk" have checked chain length under full compression?
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  67. #1267
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    Finally..

    After 6 months decorating a new house I finally got round to building the frame I had sat in the garage. Very happy at the moment but not had much time on it yet.

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_0135.jpg

  68. #1268
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    Anyone in the 6'4" area riding a Banshee Rune and what size? I ride a large Norco SixTwo now and a quick glance at the spec's makes it seem the large Rune is longer but I'd rather check in before I order.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  69. #1269
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    Im 6'4 mate and have an XL rune. Fit is fine, although I do need run a lot of extension on my seat post to get into an efficient pedalling position. Note also the HT is quite short so make sure you measure accurately before trimming your steerer to ensure your front end is not too low.

    The large simply would not cut it for me personally. Ive owned a heap of Xl Bikes (5.7c (still), Nomad, Zula and the Rune is of similar dims to all of these.

    Very happy.

    Quote Originally Posted by 94krawler View Post
    Anyone in the 6'4" area riding a Banshee Rune and what size? I ride a large Norco SixTwo now and a quick glance at the spec's makes it seem the large Rune is longer but I'd rather check in before I order.

  70. #1270
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    Quote Originally Posted by 94krawler View Post
    Anyone in the 6'4" area riding a Banshee Rune and what size? I ride a large Norco SixTwo now and a quick glance at the spec's makes it seem the large Rune is longer but I'd rather check in before I order.
    I'm 6.3 and on a large, I probably should have gotten an XL, but the large frame was a ex-demo and very cheap. XL would definitely be the way to go unless you tend to like a smaller frame. As jbrowne said, the head tube is very short double check what spacers you need prior to cutting. On a large with a the banshee seat pole - length 400mm +(?) I am using the entire pole to the minimum insertion lenght. Finding the reach on a large pretty good for AM riding and perhaps a little short on climbs and XC riding.

  71. #1271
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    Thanks for the input guys. I'm really torn, thought I'd ride a friends Xl bike yesterday and get some idea which felt better. The XL(Giant Reign) felt nice doing XC riding but my L(Norco SixTwo) was much more fun and easy to toss around on fast AM type stuff and flow trail's.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  72. #1272
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    It is VERY EASY to determine if the "CLUNK" is a sticky Sram Type 2 (clutch) derailleur. Compress the suspension to see if you have the "CLUNK" then just engage the lock on the derailleur to give a bunch of slack in the chain and compress the suspension to see if the "CLUNK" is still there.

    I have had the "CLUNK" since I built my bike. I ripped it apart down to the pivots looking for the "CLUNK" and then noticed that due to chain growth on the compression of the suspension the derailleur pivots forward ever so slightly at the clutch. A tiny bit of stickiness in the clutch is felt at slow speeds on your bike when there is a bit of chain growth on suspension compression.

  73. #1273
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    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-p4pb9808458.jpgMy Rune V2

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-p4pb9808461.jpg

  74. #1274
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    I switched to a 1x (XX1 crank running 1x10) and the clunk is GONE and I have yet to install my clutch derailleur, still running the XT medium. Such a nice setup and super quiet. No chain guide with the 32t ring and I have yet to drop a chain!


    Ordered a Pike 650b 160mm solo air and ditching the 34 CTD. I have yet to see a Rune with a new Pike!

  75. #1275
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    Are the runes Post Mount 160mm in the rear or is the smallest rotor size a pm 180?

    Thanks

  76. #1276
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    My rune has 150mm drops and it has standard IS brake mount. I can mount 140mm disc, if I fancy so.

  77. #1277
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    Do sombody use 650B dropouts for Rune? Is it real profit or not against 26" dropouts?

  78. #1278
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    honestly dont worry about 650b. look at cranworx race, most used 26" because real dh tires existed and it helps to ride better on gnarly stuffs.

  79. #1279
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    Yes worry about 650b. Game changer!

  80. #1280
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    ...

  81. #1281
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    Dirt magazine did a review of the Rune v2 earlier this year and said, amongst other things, that you'd 'be crazy not to run the bigger wheels'. However, im cynical that they're part of the industry and are toeing the line. As for me, if i was riding competitive enduro then I might run 650b. But I ride for fun so its 26inches all the way

  82. #1282
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    Rune v2 with 180 mm fork or is the Rune the right choice for me?

    I am considering the rune v2 as my next frame. A couple questions?
    I was in the middle of building up a tr250 and ran into a deficiency with the used frame I had... so I ditched it. It is now discontinued. I am left with a brand new in box 2014 fox talas 180mm, i9 150mm spaced hub and a zee component group. The rune seams like a great option. People have mentioned running a 180mm fork but I cant find any comments on how it will affect the ride either positive or negative. I try to avoid climbing tech. Bike will be used for North Shore mostly... climbing fromme to pipeline, ladies etc. Some shuttling.. cbc etc.... Squamish University trails 19th hole etc. and Climbing to Full Nelson. Also... 5 to 7 days whistler bike park Garbo, wc Dh, Joyride freight train, dirt merch etc. The travel adjust should keep it In a good place for climbing so Im not at all worried about that. But will the long travel fork ruin the geo for descending, jumping, dropping, berming etc. Or maybe the new darkside proto is more what I need? Keith? Anyone?

  83. #1283
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    Quote Originally Posted by han_slomo View Post
    I am considering the rune v2 as my next frame. A couple questions?
    I was in the middle of building up a tr250 and ran into a deficiency with the used frame I had... so I ditched it. It is now discontinued. I am left with a brand new in box 2014 fox talas 180mm, i9 150mm spaced hub and a zee component group. The rune seams like a great option. People have mentioned running a 180mm fork but I cant find any comments on how it will affect the ride either positive or negative. I try to avoid climbing tech. Bike will be used for North Shore mostly... climbing fromme to pipeline, ladies etc. Some shuttling.. cbc etc.... Squamish University trails 19th hole etc. and Climbing to Full Nelson. Also... 5 to 7 days whistler bike park Garbo, wc Dh, Joyride freight train, dirt merch etc. The travel adjust should keep it In a good place for climbing so Im not at all worried about that. But will the long travel fork ruin the geo for descending, jumping, dropping, berming etc. Or maybe the new darkside proto is more what I need? Keith? Anyone?
    Honestly, it will be SLACK. I have a fox 36 160mm on mine in the middle geo setting and it is awesome, but on twisty flat trails it is a bit weird. If I'm not mistaken, you can't really charge with the talas in the lower setting since the internals aren't really meant for that correct? If you could keep it in the short travel setting while riding downhill I'd say you're set, but otherwise I wouldn't really recommend it. Then again, I would bet if your fork is brand new you could sell it for enough to buy a new or mint condition 160mm fork in the buy sell ya? That is what I would do, I love mine with a float 36.

  84. #1284
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    Quote Originally Posted by han_slomo View Post
    I am considering the rune v2 as my next frame. A couple questions?
    I was in the middle of building up a tr250 and ran into a deficiency with the used frame I had... so I ditched it. It is now discontinued. I am left with a brand new in box 2014 fox talas 180mm, i9 150mm spaced hub and a zee component group. The rune seams like a great option. People have mentioned running a 180mm fork but I cant find any comments on how it will affect the ride either positive or negative. I try to avoid climbing tech. Bike will be used for North Shore mostly... climbing fromme to pipeline, ladies etc. Some shuttling.. cbc etc.... Squamish University trails 19th hole etc. and Climbing to Full Nelson. Also... 5 to 7 days whistler bike park Garbo, wc Dh, Joyride freight train, dirt merch etc. The travel adjust should keep it In a good place for climbing so Im not at all worried about that. But will the long travel fork ruin the geo for descending, jumping, dropping, berming etc. Or maybe the new darkside proto is more what I need? Keith? Anyone?
    I have a rune just like you described -> linky:
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psbe7e2a06.jpg

    And it is a blast. I can climb well, I can descend with confidence. Granted, it is not as nimble as 140/140 BMC i owned earlier, but in its caliber of bikes, it rocks.

    Notice however, it is going to be a pedalable DH bike. I have 64.5* HA and something like 345mm BB height.

  85. #1285
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    My Rune with the 160 Solo Air Pike. This fork is super light and is supposed to perform! First ride tomorrow at the Big Bear bike park.

  86. #1286
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    socalMX, breaking it in easy eh? right to the bike park! have you posted any build details yet? would love to know.
    ------------------------
    i don't know the guy myself but there is a local rider on a Rune with a 180mm fork and apparently he loves it. for sure it's almost entirely a DH/freeride bike with pedalling abilities.

  87. #1287
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    Yea man, this fork got raped as a virgin (bad analogy)...

    The fork performed well. I still have some adjusting to do but all was pretty good. I am having a hard time finding a balance with the compression and rebound. The air weight chart is just crap, they should do away with that completely. Running the suggested pressure the fork was really harsh and was at 10% sag. I took the bike down the Miracle Mile trail which is Big Bears expert trail (im no expert) and the fork was awesome in the switchback berm sections and brake dive was minimal. I will try slowing down the rebound, dropping 5lbs more air tomorrow as my local trail will be a better place to dial this fork in. The front of this bike is super lightweight, and with the short chainstays it manuals better than any bike I have had. As you can see in the pic I ran the lowest/slackest geo for todays ride (flip chips by rear dropouts) and it was a mini DH bike! Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-p4pb9979024.jpg

    Large frame with full XT build. I swapped out the XT 2x crank for the XX1 and could not be happier, well that's until I could afford the rest of the XX1 kit. But honestly the 11-36 cassette is a great match for the 32t front. I love not having to run a guide and never having a dropped chain. The 27.5 wheel size is just awesome and the Stans wheels/hubs are really stiff, lightweight and can take a beating.

  88. #1288
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    Re: Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Yea man, this fork got raped as a virgin (bad analogy)...

    The fork performed well. I still have some adjusting to do but all was pretty good. I am having a hard time finding a balance with the compression and rebound. The air weight chart is just crap, they should do away with that completely. Running the suggested pressure the fork was really harsh and was at 10% sag. I took the bike down the Miracle Mile trail which is Big Bears expert trail (im no expert) and the fork was awesome in the switchback berm sections and brake dive was minimal. I will try slowing down the rebound, dropping 5lbs more air tomorrow as my local trail will be a better place to dial this fork in. The front of this bike is super lightweight, and with the short chainstays it manuals better than any bike I have had. As you can see in the pic I ran the lowest/slackest geo for todays ride (flip chips by rear dropouts) and it was a mini DH bike! Click image for larger version. 

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    Large frame with full XT build. I swapped out the XT 2x crank for the XX1 and could not be happier, well that's until I could afford the rest of the XX1 kit. But honestly the 11-36 cassette is a great match for the 32t front. I love not having to run a guide and never having a dropped chain. The 27.5 wheel size is just awesome and the Stans wheels/hubs are really stiff, lightweight and can take a beating.
    So your the one who nabed that bike from the Path before I could get to it lol.

  89. #1289
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    Yea that's it but changed tires, bars, stem, grips, crank, pedals, rear der., and fork. They gave me a great cash deal!

  90. #1290
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    Hi
    First of all, sorry for my bad english, i'm from Belgium and do my best.
    I really like the new Rune and want to buy it but i have some questions about sizing etc.
    I would like to build the frame with 650b wheels. Now i really like the idea of a long wheelbase and short stem (35mm). Looking at Dan Athertons new prototype GT it seems to be the perfect endurobike.
    I'm 6' and hesitating between size L with a 50mm stem and size XL with 35mm stem. I'm sure the XL would be better for riding downhill but i'm wondering if it still would be OK for riding flatter trails with tight corners?
    Is there anyone who has a similar setup?
    Also i was wondering which shock to get. For the 2014 they added the optionto go with the Fox Float X CTD. Anyone ridden this shock and can compare it to a CCDB Air?
    Many Thanks!

  91. #1291
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    So I tried to order a XL Rune in blue and seems they cant be had I was told they wont be making anymore in blue and havent made any since the begining of the year. All I can find is the black and the raw, the yellow and blue are gone it seem's. I can preorder the Green or black on black 2014 but I broke my Norco Sat. night and am currently out a bike.

    Anyone have a line on a XL rune in blue? This is kinda my last ditch effort at getting a blue one.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  92. #1292
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    de mich, short stem is good idea. I'm 177cm and took Large with 30mm Syntace. I love it. To give idea about other bikes and riders who ride them, compare reach and stack and see if it fits you.

    CCDB air is better than CTD because I like simple shocks. This has switch for climbing. But Fox products can always be improved with Push tuning if you like.

  93. #1293
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    Quote Originally Posted by de mich View Post
    Hi
    First of all, sorry for my bad english, i'm from Belgium and do my best.
    I really like the new Rune and want to buy it but i have some questions about sizing etc.
    I would like to build the frame with 650b wheels. Now i really like the idea of a long wheelbase and short stem (35mm). Looking at Dan Athertons new prototype GT it seems to be the perfect endurobike.
    I'm 6' and hesitating between size L with a 50mm stem and size XL with 35mm stem. I'm sure the XL would be better for riding downhill but i'm wondering if it still would be OK for riding flatter trails with tight corners?
    Is there anyone who has a similar setup?
    Also i was wondering which shock to get. For the 2014 they added the optionto go with the Fox Float X CTD. Anyone ridden this shock and can compare it to a CCDB Air?
    Many Thanks!
    Hey De Mich, I agree fully with Tomasis. I am just short of 6' with a 33" inseam and am riding a Large with a 50mm RF Atlas stem. Feels great, but wouldnt want to ride anything bigger ie: my 5" RS Reverb post is only a little above the collar. I think the perfect size for me would be somewhere between the M and L. XL would be huge.

    Shocks - My frame came with the Fox CTD (not Float X) but didnt like it and swapped to a CCBD Air after a couple of months of trying to get the CTD to feel plush and failing. Maybe the Float X has fixed this, but I have to say the CCDB Air feels amazing. I dont mind a little more pedal feedback if it makes the downhills smoother!

  94. #1294
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    Looks like I got a new Rune on the way!


    Whats working for 9speed front derailuer's? Looks like the direct mounts are all 10spd?
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  95. #1295
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    does anyone here run 2.5's on the rear of their Rune? How is the clearance?

  96. #1296
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmxking45 View Post
    does anyone here run 2.5's on the rear of their Rune? How is the clearance?
    Clearance is excellent, more than adequate.

    I've run a 2.4 High Roller II, 2.5 Higher roller, 2.35 Hand Dampf, 2.5 Minion (visually looks smaller than the hans). Can usually fit my index finger between the tyre and stays.

  97. #1297
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    I just ordered the Kenda Nevegal 2.5 FR (freeride) which is replacing my Maxxis DHR II which I blew out the sidewall after 3 rides. Hopefully I like it!!

  98. #1298
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    Thanks guys, i'll be going for a Large because a wheelbase of 1215 would be a bit of overkill i think on the flatter trails. What about the forks? Deville tapered 160 650b vs RS Pike?

  99. #1299
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    SocalMX - any comment on the stiffness difference between the Pike and 34?

  100. #1300
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    Have a spitfire on order - can anyone tell me if it includes the front direct mount derailleur mounting bolts and the half moon looking spacer? My direct mount xt front mech didn't include them.

    Thanks!

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