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  1. #251
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    Brilliant thanks guys, I appreciate the help.

    Rgds
    Pete.

  2. #252
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    Worst build thread ever! Less text more pics!

  3. #253
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    Haha PUNKY, show us yours, as you must have received your Frame already, isnīt it? Would give some great entertainment here while in the meantime all others have to wait for their Frames to arrive ...

  4. #254
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    Another question on headsets guys. For the upper assembly I see both short and tall listed. Should I be ordering one over the other?

  5. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Another question on headsets guys. For the upper assembly I see both short and tall listed. Should I be ordering one over the other?
    I cant answer that but I have another headset question.

    I am going to use my 1.5 fork from the v1 and found a complete headset on CRC that I can use for the top (44mm external) but can not find a 56mm bottom.
    Found one that is 55.9mm, would that be the same?
    I saw Zaks post with the link for the bottom but dont really want to pay $37 shipping to Canada and am ordering from CRC anyway. Is there something I can use as a bottom from CRC?

  6. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by burke ryder View Post
    I cant answer that but I have another headset question.

    I am going to use my 1.5 fork from the v1 and found a complete headset on CRC that I can use for the top (44mm external) but can not find a 56mm bottom.
    Found one that is 55.9mm, would that be the same?
    I saw Zaks post with the link for the bottom but dont really want to pay $37 shipping to Canada and am ordering from CRC anyway. Is there something I can use as a bottom from CRC?


    Can you use a 1.5 fork? I did not think so as it is a tapeered head tube. The headsets are failry cheap at Universalcycles.com Plus you can use these coupons. Oh and Dunbar cycles in Vancouer will price match the headset if your here on the west coast.

    "stormyweather10": Take 10% off orders over $100
    "stormyweather15": Take 15% off orders over $300

  7. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Can you use a 1.5 fork? I did not think so as it is a tapeered head tube. The headsets are failry cheap at Universalcycles.com Plus you can use these coupons. Oh and Dunbar cycles in Vancouer will price match the headset if your here on the west coast.

    "stormyweather10": Take 10% off orders over $100
    "stormyweather15": Take 15% off orders over $300
    To be honest there are so many different standards now my head just spins. Thats probably why I cant find a bottom at CRC...Anyone?

    Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but the head tube is 44mm on top so a 44mm headset external bearing will fit my 1.5 like the Nukeproof Warhead 44EEOS

    Yea, I.m in Van. Thanks for the links.

  8. #258
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    Pretty sure this Hope bottom separate is what you need.

    Your Basket

    I don't see any Hope top assy's that do what you want so you need to buy the complete Nukeproof headset you listed to get the correct upper cup/bearing assy. to fit a 1.5 steerer and into the 44mm headtube. It's an odd combo and the 2 companies that sell separate tops and bottoms (Cane Creek and Hope) don't seem to offer that top you want. At least without contacting them to find out.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  9. #259
    ptd
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    Headsets

    @Mishtar: I'd suggest short, because if gives you a wider range of adjustment using spacers. If you get a tall, the minimum stem height is higher.

    @burke ryder: The Nukeproof Warhead 44EEOS is right for a 1.5" steerer in 44mm head tube upper. The lower cup won't work.

    From CRC, I'm ordering the Hope pick'n'mix for a tapered steerer, tapered headtube:
    top cup: Hope Pick n Mix Headsets - Top Cup | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com 1.1/8" integral 43.95mm
    bottop cup: Hope Pick n Mix Headsets - Bottom Cup | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com 1.5" integral 55.9mm


    @skidad: I think that haedset is for a "traditional" inner bore of 49.57mm, rather than "tapered 56mm", someone correct me if I'm wrong!
    Last edited by ptd; 11-22-2012 at 03:26 AM.

  10. #260
    ptd
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    Double crank chainring tabs ok with top guide?

    @AdrianoMTB: Is that an XT double crankset? Is there adequate clearance between the chainring tabs and the upper chain guide?
    I haven't seen a double in person, it looks like the double chainring tab is a little more pronounced than the triple, I thought it might have more chance of fouling the upper guide if the fit was 'close'?
    Last edited by ptd; 11-22-2012 at 03:26 AM.

  11. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by burke ryder View Post
    To be honest there are so many different standards now my head just spins. Thats probably why I cant find a bottom at CRC...Anyone?

    Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but the head tube is 44mm on top so a 44mm headset external bearing will fit my 1.5 like the Nukeproof Warhead 44EEOS

    Yea, I.m in Van. Thanks for the links.
    $38
    Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek 40 ZS56 1.5" Lower Assembly

    $29
    Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek 40-Series ZS44 Upper Assembly

    So $67 for the Cane creak 40 series. Dunbar said they would price match it so you would save shippng and handling. Or you could get the 110 series for $132

    The hope ones are $82 so the 40 series would be cheaper if bought In Van at Dunbar.

  12. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    @AdrianoMTB: Is that an XT double crankset? Is there adequate clearance between the chainring tabs and the upper chain guide?
    I haven't seen a double in person, it looks like the double chainring tab is a little more pronounced than the triple, I thought it might have more chance of fouling the upper guide if the fit was 'close'?
    Hi Ptd!

    In fact, I had to put little spacers between the ring and the cranks to align the chain within the chainguide.

  13. #263
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    Hi Guys! It would bei so nice if anyone could give me a hint about the right lenght of the brake hoses front and rear? Is it really a minimum of 170mm? What would you recommend in the front using a 180mm fork and 760mm bar?

  14. #264
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    760mm bars? That is in DH range, if there are any tree's on your local trails you may be nailing them with your bars. I personally am using a 711mm bar and think it is more then big enough, my DH bar is only 730mm and I am 6ft and it feels perfect.

  15. #265
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    I use chromag 780 on both my spitfire and rune and they are go down so solid! It felt just right when i change from 730 to 780 ...

  16. #266
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    In my opinion 740er to 760er Bars are pretty average today (I have a Nukeproof Warhead 765), while DHers go wider, up to 800er Bars.

  17. #267
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    Cant wait to build mine up. My frame shipped from Trident today! I have been waiting since the end of July. Ugh. Another week?

    Cant wait to throw a leg over this thing.

  18. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    760mm bars? That is in DH range, if there are any tree's on your local trails you may be nailing them with your bars. I personally am using a 711mm bar and think it is more then big enough, my DH bar is only 730mm and I am 6ft and it feels perfect.
    I run 780 bars and I live in Oregon. No shortage of trees here. I have maybe scraped a tree twice. As with anything it is all about trade offs. Better control with the wide bars? I can live with a scuff here and there. Same with low BB's. Trading better handling for some scuffed up pedals. Good trade IMOP.

  19. #269
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    News

    I had to put the flipchips in HIGH position due to the excesive slack angle of the direction with the lyrik 170mm... itīs brutal in very steep areas but sometimes you must go fast to no loose speed in flat rocky sections...

    So right now.. Iīm running 74š seat degrees and 65,5% direction degrees...

  20. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    I run 780 bars and I live in Oregon. No shortage of trees here. I have maybe scraped a tree twice. As with anything it is all about trade offs. Better control with the wide bars? I can live with a scuff here and there. Same with low BB's. Trading better handling for some scuffed up pedals. Good trade IMOP.
    No shortage of trees near munich either. On my current bike i use a 740mm which is great but i want to try a syntace bar with 780mm on the rune; i'm 6'3" and have long arms...if the 780mm is to wide...cut

  21. #271
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    Less talk. More pics!
    Vassago Jabberwocky SS
    Litespeed Toccoa

  22. #272
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    Hmmmm ... more patience ... ???
    Seems that everyone is waiting for their Frames. Iīm sure tons of Pics will follow in a few weeks.

  23. #273
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    Anyone know what kind of shimano front derailleur is required? I received info that it was a direct mount E/type but when I called Shimano they said it had to either be a direct mount "or" an etype and it could not be both. I am a little confused on what to buy.

  24. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Anyone know what kind of shimano front derailleur is required? I received info that it was a direct mount E/type but when I called Shimano they said it had to either be a direct mount "or" an etype and it could not be both. I am a little confused on what to buy.
    E-type is what the Rune V2 uses. Shimano direct mount attaches to a frame mount above the crankset.

  25. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy View Post
    E-type is what the Rune V2 uses. Shimano direct mount attaches to a frame mount above the crankset.
    I am still a little confused because this was the exact wording that I received from Banshee when I wrote the site.

    "The Rune V2 takes a low bottom pull direct mount front derailleur. If you're ordering a Sram front derailleur you'll need an S3, Shimano call theres an E-tipe.
    "

    It quotes that it is low bottom pull direct mount but then later says E-type. Do you have your bike to actually look at it and confim it is E-type? I do not want to be ordering the wrong derailluer and as no shops around here have seen one yet they can not confirm what type it is either.

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