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  1. #1
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    2017 Banshee Build Thread

    Now that the 2017's are available I thought it was time to have a devoted thread for the builds.

    Got my XL frame the other day, have started building up my 2017 Prime!

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170304_125128216_hdr.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170304_125103690_hdr.jpg
    Last edited by MartinS; 03-05-2017 at 12:26 PM.

  2. #2
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    thats the bike I want to get but not here yet whear did you get it?

    did you need to face off the head tube, I am excited this will be my first build. Love to here some details from you.

  3. #3
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    I'm keen on the Orange Prime ^^

    Major greasing to do, if it's to happen o_0

    Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk
    "Mountain biking: the under-rated and drug-free antidepressant"

  4. #4
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    Ordered direct through Banshee a few months back as there are no dealers nearby, I believe Dirtmerchant should have them pdq if they don't have them yet.
    No need for facing headset, pressed in easy peasy.
    Last edited by MartinS; 03-07-2017 at 08:08 PM.

  5. #5
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    lets here about the front end you have installed so far, what head set and fork did you go with looking good

  6. #6
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    Most of the parts are of my '13 Prime. Here''s a quick breakdown of the build.

    RS Pike Solo air w/ Vorsprung Luftkappe
    Chris King hs
    RF SixC bar w/ 50mm Atlas stem
    XTR trail brakes w/ 180mm Ice tech's
    XTR 11 spd shifter
    XT gs derailleur
    XT 11 - 46 cassette, we'll see how the big jump between 37t and 46t goes, also have an XT 11 - 40t with a 45t One-Up if it doesn't cut it.
    I9 Gravity wheels for heavy use
    I9 hubs with Derby carbon rims for lighter days
    Chunky Monkey 2.4 tires
    RF Turbine cranks for now, trying a 32t up front first, once fat bike season is over I'll swap my Next SL's over
    XTR trail pedals
    9point8 200mm dropper - I'm going to have to lower it about 12 to 15mm though.
    WTB Laser slti saddle
    Stock Monarch RC3 shock, but also have a DBAIR that I will be testing out

  7. #7
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    Nice man. Look forward to seeing it built up.
    Banshee Prime

  8. #8
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    Here you go!
    As you can see we still have a bit of snow (the ground should be level, plus the drift at the front of my house is around 9 feet deep), hopefully I can dial it all in before heading to Hurricane at the end of the month.

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170305_120430276.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170305_120443394.jpg

  9. #9
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    How tall are you? And what is your inseam? I am between this bike and a xxl stumpjumper. Compromises will be had no matter which bike I choose.

  10. #10
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    good looking bike

  11. #11
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    I'm a bit over 6'3", shorter legs for my height - 34" inseam. Bike seems like it will fit well, a bit longer than my 2013 model so went with a 10mm short stem than before (60mm to a 50mm). Haven't had a chance to ride it yet, but it seems good.

  12. #12
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    Waiting is hard.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SammyB View Post
    Waiting is hard.
    Indeed.

  14. #14
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    Subscribed to hear you thoughts comparing the 2 different models. Looks really nice, really digging the new integrated TT and brace.

    Curious how the handling compare with that little bit of added Reach, wondering if maybe you've tried a 40mm stem? After getting my large Phantom after riding the XL PP Prime for 2 years and always having a bit of a struggle on faster tracks with the front end, I ended up running only a 10mm longer (70mm compared to 60mm) stem than I ran on the XL Prime, I realised I had been running a too long stem to properly weight the front. Last year I rebuilt the Prime with a 40mm stem and did not have that high speed cornering control issue, and despite over 2" in WB between the XL Prime and L Phantom, I have no issues navigating the tighter, slower stuff on it.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Subscribed to hear you thoughts comparing the 2 different models. Looks really nice, really digging the new integrated TT and brace.

    Curious how the handling compare with that little bit of added Reach, wondering if maybe you've tried a 40mm stem? After getting my large Phantom after riding the XL PP Prime for 2 years and always having a bit of a struggle on faster tracks with the front end, I ended up running only a 10mm longer (70mm compared to 60mm) stem than I ran on the XL Prime, I realised I had been running a too long stem to properly weight the front. Last year I rebuilt the Prime with a 40mm stem and did not have that high speed cornering control issue, and despite over 2" in WB between the XL Prime and L Phantom, I have no issues navigating the tighter, slower stuff on it.
    Hey Lynx, might be a while before I can really answer your questions, as you can see, lots of snow locally. I will be down south for a week at the end of the month though, problem is after a winter of riding 4.8 tires all regular bikes feel really weird for the first little while.
    I do plan on checking out a shorter stem, but 50mm was the shortest I currently have in my collection. Just sitting on it seems pretty familiar though, so I don't thing it will be hard to adjust to. I haven't broken out the measuring tape yet - I usually try to set up all my bikes so general fit is the same.

  16. #16
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    Thanks for that, looks sick! I was going to comment that the tires looked a little small, but then saw they are 2.4 Monkeys. So apparently that is just due to the sheer size of the XL Prime (and maybe because I am running 2.6s currently).

    Looks like you've got a bit of room to adjust the seat back if needed.
    Banshee Prime

  17. #17
    The Mountain Bike Life
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    Interesting note about the dropper...was looking at the same one if I go with a new Prime. I have a '13 production model and love it...nothing wrong with it really...just want a new bike really bad...hah.

  18. #18
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    Same boat for me, nothing wrong with my 2013, just decide on a change of scenery.
    Yeah, the 200mm dropper would probably require at least a 36" inseam, I would recommend ordering the height adusting shims when you order the post just in case, 9point8's shipping costs are ridiculous on small parts ($42 for $35 of parts).

  19. #19
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    Great looking bike Martin. Did you happen to weigh it before you started the build?

    See you're in Fernie, spent the winter of 1999/2000 there and hung around for some early season riding, god I miss that place! Has it changed much? Bet it's expanded a fair bit now

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by davosaurusrex View Post
    Great looking bike Martin. Did you happen to weigh it before you started the build?

    See you're in Fernie, spent the winter of 1999/2000 there and hung around for some early season riding, god I miss that place! Has it changed much? Bet it's expanded a fair bit now
    I did weigh it prior to the build, it is lighter but not much compared to the old one. Including the shock (so Monarch vs DBAir) the difference was about 1/2 lb.

    Fernie is still pretty similar overall, probably more biker oriented now, but the trail system is way more extensive than it was back then plus we have miles of groomed fat bike trails all winter. I would guess that there isn't a trail left that isn't significantly different, way more options, all are a short bike ride from town so no need to drive to a trailhead (with the exception if the big mountain dh runs that you have to shuttle), all singletrack, no fire road climbs . I think at last count we were at around 80 trails accessible with a 15 minute ride from my door.

  21. #21
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    Thanks Martin, can you remember what the weight was?

    I used to live with a bunch of Ozzie snowboarders in that little house on the corner of 5th and 10th with the river running around the bottom of the garden. Just been looking round town on Google streetview, boy I'm nostalgic now!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by davosaurusrex View Post
    Thanks Martin, can you remember what the weight was?

    I used to live with a bunch of Ozzie snowboarders in that little house on the corner of 5th and 10th with the river running around the bottom of the garden. Just been looking round town on Google streetview, boy I'm nostalgic now!
    This town is rife with Ozzie boarders, so no surprise there. World class fly-fishing in that river too!
    Frame weight was 7lbs 15 oz with rear axle and shock. As most Banshee fans know, they aren't the lightest out there but they sure can take a beating. I was a little concerned by the German blog claim that the new frame was 1 lb lighter than the old one, I don't like to ride noodles. I have lighter bikes, but my Banshee is the one that won't leave me stranded in the back country!

  23. #23
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    Hi Martain is there any chance I could get you to measure the inner diameter of the BB. It would be ever so appreciated.

  24. #24
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    Sorry, not going to remove the BB at this point, it's all built up. Inner Diameter is pretty standard for a threaded BB, nothing unusual there. If you were wondering width, it is a 73mm.

  25. #25
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    My bad I dont blame you for that I thought you might know or be able to get a measurement from the outside,I would not want you take it apart. Thanks for the responce

  26. #26
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    Nice, a properly sized bike! A bit surprised you can't slam the post. The stealth routing hole is right at the bottom of the straight/usable seat tube section; the housing and the 9point8 connector might be what's in the way. This would also explain why you were able to slam the 30.9 (I'm assuming you didn't set it up/connect it).

    Dave Mac: Banshee uses a 73mm BSA threaded across the lineup. Roughly a 33.5mm ID.
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  27. #27
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    Yeah was a bit surprised too, I initially tried a 31.6 Thompson and it only went down about 263mm before stopping, pretty sure it is where the seat tube starts to curve back toward the bb. The 30.9 post I checked out for the other mtbr member (sorry forgot his name) was probably just narrow enough to get by the bend.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinS View Post
    The 30.9 post I checked out for the other mtbr member (sorry forgot his name)...
    You're welcome. :-D

  29. #29
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    2017 Banshee Build Thread-dsc_1097-01-01.jpg

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-dsc_1093-01-01.jpg


    - Frame: Phantom XL
    - Fork: Rock Shox Pike 130mm 51mm offset
    - Headset: Hope
    - Stem: Chromag Ranger V2 60mm
    - Handlebar: Answer Pro Taper SL 750mm
    - Grips: Ergon GS1
    - Seat clamp: Banshee
    - Seatpost: Fox Transfer Factory 150mm
    - Saddle: Bontrager Evoke RL
    - Brakes: Shimano XTR Race 180mm rotors
    - Shifter: Shimano XT 11psd
    - Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT
    - Cranks: Shimano XT 180mm
    - Pedals: Shimano XT
    - Bottom Bracket: Shimano XT
    - Chainring: Absolute Black Oval 32t
    - Cassette: Shimano XT 11-46t
    - Chain: Shimano XT
    - Wheelset: Roval Traverse SL
    - Front tire: Maxxis Minion DHR 3C 2.3
    - Rear tire: Maxxis Ardent Race 3C 2.35

    Weight is dead on 30lbs minus the storage bottle, pump and gps. Not too bad as the frame alone was over 8lbs. Can easily take another pound off the drivetrain if needed.

    Rides very nice! Frame is rock solid. It's got a lot of suspension muscle for only 105mm, the KS Link does way more than most bikes of similar travel. Pedalling position is just right. The raw finish looks awesome!

  30. #30
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    Nice build!

    Could you please measure your chainline and take a photo of the chainstay/chainring clearence with your oval? Thank you!

  31. #31
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    Very nice Curious, how tall are you? I'm assuming you must be over 6'4" to be running that setup on the XL with 480mm Reach. Which setup did you go with 142x12 or 148x12 and how are you running the chips? I don't feel so bad now with my Large PP V1 running a 2x, 150x12 rear and alloy wheels coming in just a smidge over 31lbs

    Quote Originally Posted by DenyEverything View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    - Frame: Phantom XL - Fork: Rock Shox Pike 130mm 51mm offset - Stem: Chromag Ranger V2 60mm - Handlebar: Answer Pro Taper SL 750mm.
    - Weight is dead on 30lbs minus the storage bottle, pump and gps. Not too bad as the frame alone was over 8lbs. Can easily take another pound off the drivetrain if needed.

    Rides very nice! Frame is rock solid. It's got a lot of suspension muscle for only 105mm, the KS Link does way more than most bikes of similar travel. Pedalling position is just right. The raw finish looks awesome!
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  32. #32
    26 for life.
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    Large Turquoise Spitfire. Looks more Teal to me.
    New bits:
    27.5 Pike, Monarch plus.
    Spank Spike "Bear Claw" stem 50mm
    Answer Pro Taper 780mm
    KS Lev Integra 150mm with Race Face remote.
    Old bits:
    X9 shifter, derailleur & cranks.
    Sunrace 11-42 cogs.
    Absolute Black 32 tooth chainring.
    DT EX500 rims on X9 hubs.
    Replacing the X9 brakes with Guide RS asap.
    The Flite was in the spares box.
    Pedals are Exus something.
    Swapping the Minions for winter tyres soon.
    Sent from the future to destroy the past.

  33. #33
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    2017 Banshee Build Thread-dsc_1104-01.jpg

    That's with the 34t position closest to the chainstay^. Chainline appears to be 56mm, haven't really checked if that's ideal or not.

    Yes LyNx, I'm 6'4" and with long arms. It's got the 142mm dropouts, was going to get 148 but wheelset availability was a slight issue when I ordered. Dropouts are in the slack position, so with the 130mm fork I should have a nice 67 HA!

  34. #34
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    New Phantom

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-image.jpg

    Frame: Phantom size Large
    Fork: Fox 34 Factory at 120mm
    Shock: Fox with Avalanche damper
    Seatpost: Rockshox Reverb 125mm
    Stem: RaceFace atlas 50mm length
    Bar: Renthal Fatbar Lite 35mm rise
    Drivetrain: Shimano XT
    Pedals: Race Face chester
    Brakes: Magura MT5, with new 1 finger lever
    Wheels: Roval Traverse SL Fattie
    Tires: Maxxis Highroller II front, Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.35 rear
    Saddle: Fabric scoop radius

    This is a replacement of a mint green phantom that I cracked in a bad crash. Overall, the improvements are small but noticeable. The hydro forming on the top tube and brace look great, the paint finish is an awesome matte, the new DT dropout is good, and the small geometry tweaks means the bike seems to fit me a little better. I'm 6' 0.5" and the little bit of top tube length feels just about right.

    The travel in the rear never feels undergunned compared to the front. And in the slack setting, cornering feels amazing! Seemingly no loss in climbing abilities in the slack setting either.

    I'm loving it!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Banshee Build Thread-image.jpg  


  35. #35
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    Finally got my XL Spitfire built during late nights last week. Looks good and now its time to set the suspension up to my liking. There will be a 170 mm drop Reverb Stealth installed later this week, too bad they do not come in silver!

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-spittyv3xl-2530.jpg

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-spittyv3xl-2525.jpg

    - Frame: Spitfire XL
    - Fork: Fox 34 factory 150 mm
    - Headset: Banshee
    - Stem: Thomson elite 50 mm
    - Handlebar: Pro Tharsis trail carbon 800 mm
    - Grips: ODI
    - Seat clamp: Banshee
    - Seatpost: Thomson pictured (Reverb 170 mm)
    - Saddle: WTB Volt carbon
    - Brakes: SRAM Guide RSC 160mm rotors
    - Drivetrain: SRAM X01 11 spd
    - Wheelset: Mavic WTS Crossmax Pro 142 mm

  36. #36
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    Banshee Amp

    Not many of us have Amps, but here's mine:
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-2017-03-30-17.02.58.jpg
    Mostly old parts on this, but I think it came together pretty well.

    Frame: Banshee Amp, long, raw/purple
    Fork: Rock Shox Argyle
    Brake: Shimano SLX, 160
    Wheels: Hope Pro 2 Evo / Mavic 823
    Tires: Larsen TT 2.0
    Crank: Truvativ Stylo
    BB: GXP
    Chainring: Blackspire N/W 30T
    Cog: Gusset
    Chain: Dura-Ace 10spd
    Pedals: Gusset
    Bar: Easton Havoc Carbon
    Stem: Chromag Hi-Fi
    Grips: Deity
    Seat: Chromag Lynx DT
    Post: CRC
    @pinkrobeyyc
    #pinkrobeyyc

  37. #37
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    MY17 Banshee Spitfire w/ 26in (for now)

    Spitfire build complete
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Banshee Build Thread-17796316_10212469167394689_66655151711607487_n.jpg  

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-17800331_10212469167354688_9190608264507372416_n.jpg  

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-17760009_10212469167434690_1271042391994637153_n.jpg  

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-17795776_10212469167474691_3264420970041720219_n.jpg  


  38. #38
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    Got my Prime built today:
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-2017-04-11-19.09.45-copy.jpg
    It's orange.
    @pinkrobeyyc
    #pinkrobeyyc

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    Got my Prime built today:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's orange.
    Nice!

  40. #40
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    this one's orange too
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Banshee Build Thread-prime.jpg  


  41. #41
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    Nice!
    @pinkrobeyyc
    #pinkrobeyyc

  42. #42
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    2017 Banshee Build Thread-s1600_20170415_082703.jpg
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-s1600_20170415_082656_01.jpg
    Frame Banshee Spitfire V3 2017 Medium size
    Rear Shock Rock Shox Monarch Plus RC3
    Fork Rock Shox Pike RCT3 160mm
    Headset FSA
    Handlebar Renthal Fatbar Lite 35 20 rise 760 wide
    Stem Easton Haven 35mm 40mm long
    Grips ODI ruffian lock on
    Brakes Hope Technology Tech3 E4 180mm front and rear
    Brake Levers Hope Technology Tech 3 V4
    Shifters SRAM GX1
    Rear Derailleur SRAM GX1
    Chainguide Other 77designz freesolo
    Cranks Race Face Turbine cinch 175mm
    Chainrings / Sprocket Race Face Turbine 11 Speed 30t
    Bottom Bracket Race Face
    Chain SRAM
    Cassette / Rear Cog SRAM X01 10-42
    Pedals DMR Vault
    Front Rim Stan's NoTubes ZTR Flow Ex 650b
    Rear Rim Stan's NoTubes ZTR Flow EX 650B
    Hubs DT Swiss 350
    Spokes DT Swiss
    Front Tire Maxxis Minnion DHF 3C 2.3
    Rear Tire Maxxis HighRoller II 2.3
    Saddle Specialized Power
    Seatpost RockShox Reverb Stealth 125mm
    Weight : 14 kgs
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Banshee Build Thread-20170415_082656%5B1%5D.jpg  


  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Frame Banshee Spitfire V3 2017 Medium size
    Rear Shock Rock Shox Monarch Plus RC3
    Fork Rock Shox Pike RCT3 160mm
    Headset FSA
    Handlebar Renthal Fatbar Lite 35 20 rise 760 wide
    Stem Easton Haven 35mm 40mm long
    Grips ODI ruffian lock on
    Brakes Hope Technology Tech3 E4 180mm front and rear
    Brake Levers Hope Technology Tech 3 V4
    Shifters SRAM GX1
    Rear Derailleur SRAM GX1
    Chainguide Other 77designz freesolo
    Cranks Race Face Turbine cinch 175mm
    Chainrings / Sprocket Race Face Turbine 11 Speed 30t
    Bottom Bracket Race Face
    Chain SRAM
    Cassette / Rear Cog SRAM X01 10-42
    Pedals DMR Vault
    Front Rim Stan's NoTubes ZTR Flow Ex 650b
    Rear Rim Stan's NoTubes ZTR Flow EX 650B
    Hubs DT Swiss 350
    Spokes DT Swiss
    Front Tire Maxxis Minnion DHF 3C 2.3
    Rear Tire Maxxis HighRoller II 2.3
    Saddle Specialized Power
    Seatpost RockShox Reverb Stealth 125mm
    Weight : 14 kgs

    that is a magnificent build sir!!

  44. #44
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    Thought it would end up lighter but you can't feel the 14kg, it just climbs and acelarate so well, very happy.

  45. #45
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    spitty love the Arizona desert!

    getting it dialed in for the local rock
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Banshee Build Thread-fullsizerender.jpg  


  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    Thought it would end up lighter but you can't feel the 14kg, it just climbs and acelarate so well, very happy.
    same here, it's a bit of a chunk, but hey so am i but absolutely loves down hill in Arizona

  47. #47
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    Yes, it's reassuringly well built , one thing I notest regarding the Transition Patrol that I sell is that I have to be more careful with the rear break, it locks the wheel easier.

  48. #48
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    I was out and about on my 2017 Prime today, and I made some observations:
    • ****ing sweet bike
    • able to handle random air very well
    • 34T chainring may be a bit too big
    • confidence inspiring


    The only thing that bugged me was the shock, a Monarch Plus. It's set with the low/low tune for rebound and compression damping. Rebound seemed fine, but compression was a little harsh. I ran it open all the time. Used all the travel on a couple of landings without any harsh bottom out. I'm thinking about my options...
    • keep riding for a while to see if it breaks in and mellows out
    • DVO Topaz
    • Fox Float X2
    • CCDBA
    • Put on a Debonair can

    Can I make it a little more plush/compliant somehow? The fork [MRP Ribbon] is super tunable, and was almost spot-on with factory settings. I'm coming off an Ibis Mojo HD and Norco Aurum, both with CCDBAs, so that's my frame of reference.
    @pinkrobeyyc
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  49. #49
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    How heavy are you? If you're on the lighter side of things, that could be the problem. Maybe run some volume spacers so you can drop a few PSI and still have it ramp up more towards the end of the stroke.
    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    I was out and about on my 2017 Prime today, and I made some observations:
    ****ing sweet bike.....The only thing that bugged me was the shock, a Monarch Plus. It's set with the low/low tune for rebound and compression damping. Rebound seemed fine, but compression was a little harsh. I ran it open all the time. Used all the travel on a couple of landings without any harsh bottom out. I'm thinking about my options...

    Can I make it a little more plush/compliant somehow? The fork [MRP Ribbon] is super tunable, and was almost spot-on with factory settings. I'm coming off an Ibis Mojo HD and Norco Aurum, both with CCDBAs, so that's my frame of reference.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    How heavy are you? If you're on the lighter side of things, that could be the problem. Maybe run some volume spacers so you can drop a few PSI and still have it ramp up more towards the end of the stroke.
    I'm 170 pounds, 190 geared up as I was yesterday, which should put me in the sweet spot for suspension settings. I was doing a little more research, and Cane Creek recommends a high volume air can for the Prime, so perhaps the Debonair can is worth a try.

  51. #51
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    What kind of weight are you guys getting on the new Spitfire frames? I'm wondering how the weight scales up from the 6.6lbs that Banshee is claiming for the Medium frames. I'd be interested in an XL.
    GIS/GPS Pro using ArcFM for Utility Mapping - Always willing to connect with other MTBers in the industry.

  52. #52
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    We found as a general rule of thumb, that increasing frame size added 80-100g per size. Black ano frames are lighter than raw with clearcoat by around 150g, and painted frames by 180-250g depending on colour.
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  53. #53
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    So a Large or XL 2017 Spitfire might weight anywhere between 6.8lbs and 6.9lbs, with another 400g for a Monarch Debonair 200x57, so around 7.6lbs total.
    GIS/GPS Pro using ArcFM for Utility Mapping - Always willing to connect with other MTBers in the industry.

  54. #54
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    There is a German site that has some 2017 weights.

    7.2lbs for a Large Spitfire with no shock.

    Gewicht Banshee Full-Suspension Spitfire Large

  55. #55
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    Tried to send as PM, but no dice.

    Recently built up a new '17 Phantom (my third Phantom). Couple quick questions:

    1. Is it possible to get the proper chainline without the stock ISCG mount? I removed it as I don't need a guide and it blocks access to the lower pivot. Running Next cranks, 32 ring and Eagle. I ended up running a 2.5mm spacer under each BB cup plus an additional 1mm on the drive side. Getting some drivetrain noise and don't think my setup is truly dialed.

    2. Also getting some creaking noise from the rear of the bike. Assembled dry. Do you recommend anti-seize or something on the rear dropouts and chips?
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  56. #56
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    Congrats on Phantom, I just ordered one as well and can't wait to build it.

    As for dropouts, I have dealt with couple of similar issues on other frames (old GT force) and yes, creaking is most likely coming from the dropouts. Just apply thin layer of quality grease so all metal contact points are covered and the creaking should go away for a year or longer, depending on your weather and how you wash it.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blatant View Post
    Tried to send as PM, but no dice.

    Recently built up a new '17 Phantom (my third Phantom). Couple quick questions:

    1. Is it possible to get the proper chainline without the stock ISCG mount? I removed it as I don't need a guide and it blocks access to the lower pivot. Running Next cranks, 32 ring and Eagle. I ended up running a 2.5mm spacer under each BB cup plus an additional 1mm on the drive side. Getting some drivetrain noise and don't think my setup is truly dialed.

    2. Also getting some creaking noise from the rear of the bike. Assembled dry. Do you recommend anti-seize or something on the rear dropouts and chips?
    This is quoted from a ways back:
    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    The ISCG mount needs to be installed on the frame to ensure proper BB width and strength.
    ...So maybe just toss it back on.

    If you're so inclined, I believe the shell measures 71mm without the adapter. RF Cinch cranks on a 73mm BSA BB calls for one 2.5mm spacer on the drive side. That comes to 4.5mm of spacers on the drive side only.

    You have too many spacers on your current setup. Make sure you are using the cinch collar on the non drive side to remove lateral play.
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  58. #58
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    Thanks, man. I put the 2.5 under the NDS because I had to nearly max the cinch collar to dial the play out. Probably due to not running the ISCG. I'll do some maintenance this week.

    Got a ton of Phoenix and Sedona miles on it already and it's doing well overall. Pretty stoked with the MRP Ribbon.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  59. #59
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    It is important to have the splined ISCG on the frame to support the BB, without it your BB is not properly supported.

    The purpose of the spline is not to make it optional to run, but to enable you to change rotation if guide requires it. I highly recommend digging it out and mounting it on the frame rather than trying to replace it with BB spacers for the sake of a 20g weight saving.
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    Quote Originally Posted by geoya View Post
    As for dropouts, I have dealt with couple of similar issues on other frames (old GT force) and yes, creaking is most likely coming from the dropouts. Just apply thin layer of quality grease so all metal contact points are covered and the creaking should go away for a year or longer, depending on your weather and how you wash it.
    Just an FYI, I've had a Prime for several years and have never put a drop of anything on the dropouts or chips, and they have always been dead quiet in the wet or dry (unlike my brakes). Also they have never needed re-torqueing, although I do check them maybe every few months or if I recently changed them. I do put a light coat of grease on the axle threads and shaft.
    Banshee Prime

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    It is important to have the splined ISCG on the frame to support the BB, without it your BB is not properly supported.

    The purpose of the spline is not to make it optional to run, but to enable you to change rotation if guide requires it. I highly recommend digging it out and mounting it on the frame rather than trying to replace it with BB spacers for the sake of a 20g weight saving.
    Will take care of it this week before riding again. Thank you.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    Just an FYI, I've had a Prime for several years and have never put a drop of anything on the dropouts or chips, and they have always been dead quiet in the wet or dry (unlike my brakes). Also they have never needed re-torqueing, although I do check them maybe every few months or if I recently changed them. I do put a light coat of grease on the axle threads and shaft.
    I had a similar problem,a little bit if grease between de frame and the Reverb solve it.

  63. #63
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    Quietest my Phantom has ever been was my trip last year to Colorado, picked it right down and cleaned up everything, forgot to pack grease with me, so everything went up dry, not one creak, click or groan in some dry and dusty conditions. Actually thinking of stripping it back down and cleaning everything up and going back up dry again to try and get ride of a few intermittent clicks I have.

    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    Just an FYI, I've had a Prime for several years and have never put a drop of anything on the dropouts or chips, and they have always been dead quiet in the wet or dry (unlike my brakes). Also they have never needed re-torqueing, although I do check them maybe every few months or if I recently changed them. I do put a light coat of grease on the axle threads and shaft.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  64. #64
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    Well here is my new 2017 Banshee Spitfire. Currently have the flip chips set low. I hit some rocks and have trouble clearing some larger logs but its hard for me to change them cause the bike just rips through corners with it low.

    2017 Fox Factory Float Fit4 160mm fork
    Race Face Atlas Bars cut to 760mm
    Race Face Atlast 50mm Stem
    Race Face Ride Cranks
    Race Face 30T Narrow Wide Chainring
    Shimano XT 1x11 Rear Derauiller
    Shimano XT 1x11 Rear Cassette 11t-42t
    Spank Oozy Trail 295 650b Wheelset
    Maxxis DHF Minion (Front), Maxxis DHR II Minion (Rear), tubeless
    Thomson Elite Seatpost
    Cromag Seatpost collar
    Shimano Deore Brakes with 180mm rotors

    Upgrades in near future:
    Cane Creek 40 series headset (not nuts about the stock banshee munro that was installed, notices some paint chips or lack of anodizing on the inside of the cups which bothers me. Also like the fact that the cane creek has a rubber seal on the crown race.)
    Better Brakes
    Fox Transfer Dropper Seatpost

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170429_212109.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170429_212102.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170429_212045.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170429_212118.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170501_190200.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170502_183050.jpg

  65. #65
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    that's a sweet build!!!

  66. #66
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    That is a sweet-looking ride. Good move matching the bar color to the stanchions (assuming it was intentional).

    I too like a low BB. Pedal strikes are a downside, but everything else is better so it's hard to want to raise it.
    Banshee Prime

  67. #67
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    Thanks Guys! Yea the bars and stanchion were done on purpose haha. They have a matching Race Face Atlas Crank that is that color too. It would look sick. But the atlas crank is primarily a free ride crank which would add a bunch of weight for no reason.

  68. #68
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    I had a banshee headset on another bike and it was flawless, despite not looking as fancy as some other brands. Nice build btw

  69. #69
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    HI there,this weekend I'm going to try the other geometry setting,with the dropouts on the more upright position,after my Patrol I feel that I'm pedalling less upright .

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-20170510_132743.jpg
    Last edited by bullit43; 05-11-2017 at 07:29 AM.

  70. #70
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    In all honesty, does it feel bad in this new position or just different? Curious as I don't like the newer steep STA a lot of modern bikes are coming with, have to use a setback post to get where I like to sit relative to the BB on my Phantom. Not dissing the steeper setting either as that's how I've run mine for the last 3 years, never felt like I needed the slacker angles really for the more general nature of the rides I like to do - lots of pedaling along flats, rolling, climbing and descending. I'm now trying mine is the middle position to see how it goes, since I run it's big brother in the slack position and get along fine like that.

    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    HI there,this weekend I'm going to try the other geometry setting,with the dropouts on the moral upright position,after my Patrol I feel that I'm pedaling less upright .
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    HI there,this weekend I'm going to try the other geometry setting,with the dropouts on the moral upright position,after my Patrol I feel that I'm pedalling less upright .

    Click image for larger version. 

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    It looks like your dropouts are already in the steeper position.

  72. #72
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    I mean, trying on the steeper position and less slacked.

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    I mean, trying on the steeper position and less slacked.
    In that picture the way you have the dropouts the frame/BB is in its high/steep setting. If you reverse the dropouts form whats shown in the pic the bike will be lower and slacker

  74. #74
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    How do I stop this from happening? 2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_4701.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_4708.jpg

  75. #75
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    Start the chainstay wrap forward of where you're getting the chain contact, instead of so far back Also, you could try running a bigger ring. Check chain length, might be too long. Run a long cage RD to keep the chain further down from the stays. The things you can do are many, but wrapping the chainstay all the way to the front of the actual stay would be the first thing to do.

    Quote Originally Posted by kanobee View Post
    How do I stop this from happening? [ATTACH=CONFIG]1137487[/ATTACH
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  76. #76
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    cool i'll re-wrap it further forward. i'm running a 32t narrow wide and it's a 1x11 XT Shimano drive train that's been pretty bomb proof so far. and yes the clutch has been and is still engaged. might even drop a link out of the chain too to see if that helps

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by DenyEverything View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    That's with the 34t position closest to the chainstay^. Chainline appears to be 56mm, haven't really checked if that's ideal or not.

    Yes LyNx, I'm 6'4" and with long arms. It's got the 142mm dropouts, was going to get 148 but wheelset availability was a slight issue when I ordered. Dropouts are in the slack position, so with the 130mm fork I should have a nice 67 HA!
    what kind of adhesive did you use for the rubber on the chainstay? i'm' having a chain slap issue right there on that spot

  78. #78
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    you may find it stupid but it works.
    if it works it ain't stupid, right?

    check out "liquid electrical tape" at any hardware store.
    Basically it's liquid vinyl, and you can put it on any shaped object. You can put a thicker layer as well.
    I'm still building the bike so no real-life test but I see no reason for it to fail.
    Here is the photo, It's just fist try, maybe I'll cover add, depending on how my chainring will look installed.
    Also it's removable, able to peel it off.
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-screen-shot-2017-05-16-3.06.47-pm.jpg


    also 3m 2228 tape works just fine. It has adhesive layer and you can either wrap it around or simply put one layer on top.
    super easy to work with, removable and easy to cut or fit onto odd-shaped areas.
    not sure how it'll handle pressure washing that way.

  79. #79
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    Be careful with shortening the chain, make sure you let all the air out of the shock, or un-bolt it so you can cycle the suspension through it's full range and there is chain growth and you don't want a too short chain to rip off your RD.

    Quote Originally Posted by kanobee View Post
    cool i'll re-wrap it further forward. i'm running a 32t narrow wide and it's a 1x11 XT Shimano drive train that's been pretty bomb proof so far. and yes the clutch has been and is still engaged. might even drop a link out of the chain too to see if that helps
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by kanobee View Post
    How do I stop this from happening?
    I use sticky velcro in that spot on my other bikes

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Creg View Post
    I use sticky velcro in that spot on my other bikes
    Yup, the soft side of sticky velcro (heavy duty stuff) has been my go to for years, it keeps things quiet and protects the paint well, is cheap and easy to apply.
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  82. #82
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    2017 Banshee Build Thread-prime.jpg


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    thanks guys, velcro installed and i'll test it out today

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by SammyB View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I would love to see more pics of the orange Prime!

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Be careful with shortening the chain, make sure you let all the air out of the shock, or un-bolt it so you can cycle the suspension through it's full range and there is chain growth and you don't want a too short chain to rip off your RD.
    So I have this same problem running a Shimano 1x11 xt GS derauiller and a race face 30T N/W chain ring which is even smaller. Which makes the chain even closer then picture shown.

    Any recommendations on solutions it seems I may be able to take a little slack out of chain but then I'm worried about the problem mentioned above with the chain growth.

    The shop put all my parts on from another frame i owned wondering i if they just left the chain as is and didn't shorten it if needed.

  86. #86
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    You get contact there no matter what, that's why mot carbon frames have a bit of aluminium stuck in that spot.

  87. #87
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    3 most likely causes for excessive chainslap in that location are:

    #1 Chain is too long and derailleur isn't capable of tensioning it properly.
    #2 Derailleur spring has lost tension (happens to them all over time, one reason to shift to smallest cog at end of every ride before storing bike).
    #3 Clutch needs servicing in derailleur.

    Other factors like b tension screw adustment, and chain stretch can also be factors.
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  88. #88
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    #2. Interesting point that I've never heard before in my life. Totally makes sense.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  89. #89
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    So after breaking three V1s, I'm taking a chance on a new Spitfire. It feels odd after being stuck on my fat bike since December, but it's good to not have my back and wrists not killing me after big ride.

    I still need to drop the fork down to 140mm from 160mm because I measure the AC on this 350 to be 562mm, and it needs to be 542mm. It certainly feels wrong right now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Banshee Build Thread-20170523_182138.jpg  

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    my turn...

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-spitty.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    3 most likely causes for excessive chainslap in that location are:

    #1 Chain is too long and derailleur isn't capable of tensioning it properly.
    #2 Derailleur spring has lost tension (happens to them all over time, one reason to shift to smallest cog at end of every ride before storing bike).
    #3 Clutch needs servicing in derailleur.

    Other factors like b tension screw adustment, and chain stretch can also be factors.
    well i'm happy to report that removing two links and placing a small piece of velcro (thanks guys for the suggestion) that everything is sound and smooth with no slap happening any longer. we are all good here now

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    I was out and about on my 2017 Prime today, and I made some observations:
    • ****ing sweet bike
    • able to handle random air very well
    • 34T chainring may be a bit too big
    • confidence inspiring


    The only thing that bugged me was the shock, a Monarch Plus. It's set with the low/low tune for rebound and compression damping. Rebound seemed fine, but compression was a little harsh. I ran it open all the time. Used all the travel on a couple of landings without any harsh bottom out. I'm thinking about my options...
    • keep riding for a while to see if it breaks in and mellows out
    • DVO Topaz
    • Fox Float X2
    • CCDBA
    • Put on a Debonair can

    Can I make it a little more plush/compliant somehow? The fork [MRP Ribbon] is super tunable, and was almost spot-on with factory settings. I'm coming off an Ibis Mojo HD and Norco Aurum, both with CCDBAs, so that's my frame of reference.
    I've made some changes to my Prime over the last few weeks:
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-2017-05-18-12.13.26.jpg

    Brakes have been changed to XT. The SRAM Guide RSC just didn't feel great. Changed to a 30T front ring, which is working much better on the steeper climbs. The rear shock is still not 100% to my liking. It still feel like there's more compression damping than I'd like, even in Open mode.
    @pinkrobeyyc
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  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by amrayo View Post
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    Nice. Love the black ano frames. My Prime frame spent a week on the stand in the garage before I built it. I enjoyed just admiring the bare frame, and almost hated to bolt used parts onto it.
    Banshee Prime

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    Nice. Love the black ano frames. My Prime frame spent a week on the stand in the garage before I built it. I enjoyed just admiring the bare frame, and almost hated to bolt used parts onto it.
    I'm still waiting for some parts
    meanwhile, I have my trusty Wildcard to ride

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    Quote Originally Posted by no one in particular View Post
    I still need to drop the fork down to 140mm from 160mm because I measure the AC on this 350 to be 562mm, and it needs to be 542mm. It certainly feels wrong right now.
    I couldn't take the goofy long AC on the 350CM. I lowered the fork down to 140mm after that first ride. 3 more rides later and this bike is really feeling like home now.

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-20170530_184023.jpg
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    So I think I am getting a little bit of creak from the dropouts although it maybe the bottom bracket, but it really sounds like it's coming from the very rear of the bike.

    It only happens on load while pedaling fairly hard can happen for a bit and will go away the rest of the ride or multiple rides. Then suddenly be back again. Not the seatpost or saddle as I have had them completely off and it still occurs.

    Does anyone grease their dropouts lightly and if so do you all grease the bottom of the actual flip chip as well as the dropouts themselves.

    Not sure of the BB or dropouts are the more likely cause.

  97. #97
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    Yep, I'd try a touch of grease on the chips and bolt threads.
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  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtMerchantBicycles View Post
    Yep, I'd try a touch of grease on the chips and bolt threads.
    A bit of grease on contact points to the frame of the actual dropouts as well?

    Thanks.

  99. #99
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    Can't hurt, just give everything a good wipe down once assembled.
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    2017 Banshee Build Thread-image.jpg
    Been riding the new Legend for a couple of weeks so it's about to put up a pic. I had the proto mk1 then the mk2 a few years back now back on the latest edition. So stoked on it!

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