Ok this is maybe a really stupid question but given this is my first full DIY build I'm really stuck with what headset to stick in the spitty and whether it's something I can fit at home or does it need to be done at a lbs.
Don't worry to waste your money buying a "legit" press, just go to a local hardware store and buy some threaded rod and big washers and wing nuts and make your own, it's dead easy to do, once you're not a moron. Check out this detailed thread about how to do it http://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/mkiii-homemade-headset-tools-130069.html
It's piss easy to do. I ended up buying a headset press (£30 ish in the UK from Superstar), but a rubber mallet can be used to equally successful results.
I agree that people should build a relationship with your LBS, but to be honest - buy the press once at the same cost as the shop will charge you and learn how to do it yourself.
Please don't use a rubber mallet to install your headset. People will say it works, but I bet you'd be pretty pissed when you ovalize your brand new headtube and banshee tells you youre an idiot for doing so (as they should). A headset press is a solid investment.
No, you've got to stupid to install a headset with a mallet. Telling someone to install a headset incorrectly on their new frame is not a good idea. Will you take credit where its due if he screws up? No, so install it correctly. End of argument.
By the way... reason I posted on this... last year I had a bad experience pressing a King headset into a Kona Honzo frame. I was using a Park HHP-2 headset press and the headset was a fight to get in and the upper cup was basically seized once installed. It turned out the 44mm head tube was actually 44.3mm. This is out of tolerance in a range that will some headsets but not others.
It all worked out, but soured me on the DIY approach even with pro tools. You can't expect much warranty support or customer service if you hit any issues with a DIY install- even if it might work fine 75% of the time.
Heres my action video makes a change from all the still shots .you cant see my spitfire as its a headcam.its resulted in a broken arm,an operation to fit metal plates and wires and time of work.
My bikes fine though thank god lol .happened mid febuary not expecting to ride till April im very bored and going stir crazy
Yeah I'm going to go the safe route and I'm getting one of the lbs to fit one for me, although I could probably do it myself if I bought a press but I'd rather not take any chances
I agree get the LBS to do it - you probably won't need to install new cups for the lifetime of the frame so its a very rare job and not worth getting a Park tools press or whatever. I tried to bodge it on one frame and bent one of the cups
if you buy the headset from lbs then they should fit it for free anyway
Made a few upgrades and cleaned the bike up so figured I'd share a few shots. Really liking the chromag BZA bar/stem. Really stiff but have that nice carbon feel. Replaced my Crossmax SX wheels with i9 enduros and they are great too. Came up short guinea pigging a new gap we built over the winter and was afraid to look but the rear wheel was perfect. I hadf considered the trail wheels, but stupid sh!t like that is why I'm glad I went with the enduros. Anyhow, I feel the same way everyone else does--this bike is tits. Can't wait for winter to really end to try out the new stuff we've been building...
For reference, I do it different than DW says for trail bikes.
I don't care about my suspension performance when just sitting and riding a trail. So therefore I measure my sag in the standing / attack position, because that's when I give a sh!t about suspension performance
Actually, that video gave med less respect for DW. Measuring sag with pump still attached is and introduces error due to the extended air volume from the pump.
I don't do it with the pump attached, but I'll just assume that he knows an awful lot more about these things than I do and perhaps doesn't make a difference.
it is vital you remove the pump from the equation when setting sag. At least uncrew it until it releases pressure from the pump and shock retains.
I set sag in the best approximation of the position I will be in when riding. So standing on DH bikes, and sitting on trail bikes... I then ride the bike and adjust if I want. it is more important to use a sag point that feels good than one that is an exact percentage. Every rider is different and every riding style is too... so I encourage all customers to play around with setup a bit, and certainly never use phone apps or other peoples recomendadtions as a final setting... not even base tunes, those are just a sugested starting point.
... so I encourage all customers to play around with setup a bit, and certainly never use phone apps or other peoples recomendadtions as a final setting... not even base tunes, those are just a sugested starting point.
I like to say that the CCDB base-tunes you Banshee-Guys have developed with CaneCreek do a very good job - right pressure and just a little more LSC+LSR and there it is! :thumbsup:
According sag: If possible I try both, attack-position and staying seated. Sag is around 23 to 25 % front and rear, as I like it sitting somehow a little more higher in travel.
A very personal thing, suspension settings. The base tunes from CAne Creek are pretty good. But I agree with NoStyle, a little bit more LSC and a little faster LSR for me, give a me a very playful bike. And I also have less HSC, maybe because I'm not a jumper, and I rode during years a rigid bike...
can you please give some riding-impressions on the BOS Kirk. I´m very much pleased with the CCDB-Air, same with my BOS Deville, even when there are lighter options available right now (RS Pike, Manitou Mattoc, Formula 35). The Kirk, in theory, would be the one and only shock I would go instead of the Double-Barrel ...
Although I've always been a great fan of BOS suspensions, I must say I've ridden the DBair all season and I've been very pleased with it as well.
Neverthelss, now I'd say I prefer the Kirk. It rides like a S**Toy coil shock on downhills and rough sections (amazing grip, predictable feel, less harsh feel at the beginning of the stroke ...). So, in my opinion, it is slightly better than a DBair. For me, this is mostly due to the shock's conception for the ground-up. The internals are very similar to the ones found on the S**Toy DH shock. So you get a specific setting for your bike and very predictable grip.
Then, on pedaling / uphill sections, the pseudo-lockout helps a lot and really sets it ahead from the DBair (the standard one, not the CS...which I haven't tried yet).
Although I've always been a great fan of BOS suspensions, I must say I've ridden the DBair all season and I've been very pleased with it as well.
Neverthelss, now I'd say I prefer the Kirk. It rides like a S**Toy coil shock on downhills and rough sections (amazing grip, predictable feel, less harsh feel at the beginning of the stroke ...). So, in my opinion, it is slightly better than a DBair. For me, this is mostly due to the shock's conception for the ground-up. The internals are very similar to the ones found on the S**Toy DH shock. So you get a specific setting for your bike and very predictable grip.
Then, on pedaling / uphill sections, the pseudo-lockout helps a lot and really sets it ahead from the DBair (the standard one, not the CS...which I haven't tried yet).
I have the regular CCDB as well, no VX or CS. Again I´m very pleased, but the Kirk could be a lighter and possible more pedalfriendly upgrade on the highest level for the Spitfire, depending on my personal usage and trails I ride.
Did your Kirk got a specific setting for the Spitfire? If yes, what information does BOS need? And how can I order this? Through the LBS or Distribution?
Yes, like any BOS shock it comes with a specific setting (and mooting hardware of course) for your bike. And at no extra cost !
When you order a shock from them (through your LBS, distributor etc.) you should indicate your bike model and weight. The latter can be useful for them to chose between one setting or another if two settings suit the kinematics of your frame. In particular, I know that, although only one is mentioned in their chart, they have two settings available for the Spitfire and one of those is especially suited for "big guys" as it has a thicker shim for rebound.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Mountain Bike Reviews Forum
15.4M posts
515.2K members
Since 1990
A forum community dedicated to Mountain Bike owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about bike parts, components, deals, performance, modifications, classifieds, trails, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!