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Thread: 2013 Spitfire

  1. #1651
    spinner
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultimateweevil View Post
    My next upgrade needs to be a dropper post as it's a total pain in the backside stopping to adjust at every decent down or longish climb. Quick question is what length should I be going for on a medium frame with a 32" inside leg?
    I'm 32.5" inseam on a medium frame and am using a KS dropzone post 385mm long at minimum insertion. If I could , I would raise it 10 mm or so. I'd say go for something at least 400mm long.

  2. #1652
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    2013 Spitfire-dsc05305.jpg

    2 rides with this puppy now, very rad.
    I felt the large air can on the stock CTD rear shock was way to linear, reduced the volume by about 10cm^3 which seems to have stiffened up the end of the stroke.
    Very surprised how efficient the suspension is with pedaling, out of the saddle mashing does not make the shock bob at all.
    14.12kg, should be able to shed some grams with a few spec changes but I am not overly concerned with the weight.

  3. #1653
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    Frame came today. Woot!

    Fork options: RS Pike, Fox 36, or Mattoc Pro?

    Also, the dropout box. I know what the inserts and the actual dropouts are, but what are the two smaller pieces that attach to the dropouts?

    2013 Spitfire-10313092_10201978868539645_3588776340713855838_n.jpg

  4. #1654
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    I'm saving up for a Pike myself.

    Got a pic of the parts in question?
    Maybe the neutral chips?

  5. #1655
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    Re: 2013 Spitfire

    L pieces that key into the dropouts



    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  6. #1656
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    They would be spare mech hangers.

  7. #1657
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    Quote Originally Posted by AssPav View Post
    They would be spare mech hangers.
    Got it.

  8. #1658
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    When choosing a crankset, I know I need a threaded 73mm BB, but what Q size crank do I need to get?

  9. #1659
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    168 if XX1

  10. #1660
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    Quote Originally Posted by hssp View Post
    168 if XX1
    Good, because that's what I ordered.

  11. #1661
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    Spity at my favorite kind of trail


  12. #1662
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    Dumb question for all of you CCDBA cs: do you set sag with the switch on or off?

    Also, I have a card with the base tune on it. On the cane creek website, there is a new base tune. Is the new tune for 2014 models only or does it apply to 2013 models.

    I have a leftover 2013. I had a great first ride on my 26" wheels. It is going to take me sometime to dial in all the settings, but am looking forward to it.
    2014 L Banshee Spitfire Black

  13. #1663
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    Dumb indeed :-)

    Without of course.

    Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

  14. #1664
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    Quote Originally Posted by guswalls View Post
    Dumb question for all of you CCDBA cs: do you set sag with the switch on or off?

    Also, I have a card with the base tune on it. On the cane creek website, there is a new base tune. Is the new tune for 2014 models only or does it apply to 2013 models.

    I have a leftover 2013. I had a great first ride on my 26" wheels. It is going to take me sometime to dial in all the settings, but am looking forward to it.
    Theoretically the climb switch makes no difference at all when setting sag as it just increases damping.

    The newer base tune on the website might be a better starting point for you, but remember that base tune isn't the tune we recommend you run, it's just where we recommend you start tuning from.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  15. #1665
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    Hi guys,

    Talking of the base tunes, I've set mine up with it but would like to make the bike a little bit more playful on the trail but not sure what's the best way to do this?

  16. #1666
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    Various things you can do, depending on what you're trying to achieve?

    Running less sag, take off some High Speed Rebound / Low Speed Rebound etc.
    Cane Creek's "field set up guide" that you got with the frame explains it all very well.

  17. #1667
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    Thanks I'll have a look at it, although if I run less sag wouldn't I be in danger of blowing through the travel on smaller hits?

    I already feel like I'm going through the travel too easily and had been thinking of putting a bit more pressure in the shock so maybe that plus a bit of adjustment to the high and low speed compression might be what I need to do.

    Also am I correct to think that if there isn't the right amount of sag set then it makes it harder to get the bike round tight technical stuff as the rear kind of wallows in it?

  18. #1668
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    Less sag = more air pressure (run it harder in other words)

    If your rear is too soft, then it could tend to blow though the travel and feel dead / glued to the ground.

    The above is just a guess by the way, but sag is the very first place you should start. The CCDB manual says the same also. Follow their instructions from there on and note down what you like and don't like about each setting you change.

    The set-up needs some methodical and incremental changes, so to answer your question directly is hard.

  19. #1669
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    If sag is set right, and you feel you are blowing through travel too easily when compression damping is set up right, then try adding a volume reduction spacer. (2 minute easy job).
    This will make the shock more progressive which may suit your riding style better.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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    Banshee Blog

  20. #1670
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    Just what I was thinking cheers, I'll try running it harder to begin with and see how I get on with that next time I'm out then look at fine tuning the settings once I'm happy with that. Don't want to change too many things at once I guess.

  21. #1671
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    As a starting point, maybe run it a bit harder, and take a little bit of LSC and HSR off (anti-clockwise). That way it won't feel too harsh over the chatter, but retain a lively feel .

  22. #1672
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    I am assuming that the shocks come set to the base tune. So how does it feel when you make an adjustment.
    Does the high speed should click with each adjustment?
    How does the low speed feel when you make an adjustment?
    2014 L Banshee Spitfire Black

  23. #1673
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    Go on and adjust it and feel for yourself
    The High speed adjustments just have rotations (no clicks), where the Low speed adjustments have "clicks" (feels more like a notch)

  24. #1674
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultimateweevil View Post
    Hi guys,

    Talking of the base tunes, I've set mine up with it but would like to make the bike a little bit more playful on the trail but not sure what's the best way to do this?
    To me, more playful means a slightly firmer and solid mid-stroke, plus more progression to prevent bottoming.

    I think there are several things you can experiment with:
    1.) Sag and air-pressure as it is, plus More LSC and LSR, maybe more HSC and HSR too. As much to the point the rear-end is going to be less subtle on small bumps = slightly bevor being overdamped.
    2.) Base-tune, or the current setup, but go with less sag = increase air-pressure.
    3.) Number 2 plus volume-reducer-spacer if you bottom-out on big hits.

    I personally would go the "more air-pressure-route" instead of "more damping", as it keeps the sensitivity and the lively feel. There´s a difference between a "firm" (always active) and a "harsh" (possibly unsensitive while overdamped) suspension.

  25. #1675
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    Thanks guys, I think I'll go with the more pressure and leave the base tune first and see how that goes. Will report back on how I get on once I've been out at the weekend

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