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Thread: 2013 Spitfire

  1. #2201
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    I hope Banshee keeps the adjustable drop outs. I like being able to easily change my bike Geo on what rides I'm going to be doing.... Usually middle chip or slack. Very cool feature that I'm surprised hasn't been copied by others.

  2. #2202
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hangtime View Post
    Question, now that the industry has jumped into the 27.5 wheel size, what is the likelihood of Banshee going to a dedicated 27.5 platform for the Spitfire/Rune? I liked the idea of interchangeable dropouts but is it time to go full in with the 27.5 rear on these frames.
    The most significant change when going full 650B could be a slight overwork/revision of the geometry = slightly lower BB while keeping the angles and frame-length the same. There too could then be a overwork in chain stay-length = keeping them shortish for 650B like with 26 ...
    These changes would be very small on paper, at least for the Spitfire, but I would be fine with that as long as Banshee keeps the adjustable dropouts for geometry-setting and different axle-standards!

  3. #2203
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    Hi Spitfire owners, supposing that the Spitfire will be my next bike (I'm currently debating wheter to sell my road bike and my SJ FSR to buy a 29er hardtail and an aggressive 27.5 or to swap my SJ with another do-it-all 29er... Phantom?) I'm asking for advice for my build. I have some doubts about the shock: I don't want a Cane Creek, I've read a lot about reliability issues and here in Italy servicing is crazily expensive. What about Monarch? It is my understanding that an M/M tune would be fine, right? Would you go RT3 or Monarch Plus (both Debonair)?
    Another thing: any rumour about a revamped Spitfire in the works? The bike stayed unchanged for three years now...

    Thank you,

    lorenzo

  4. #2204
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    When my Cc db needed servicing I put a rock show monarch plus on from my other bike. It has a m/m tune. I thought it rode well on my spitty......but not as good as the cane creek, that shock is amazing.

  5. #2205
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    Quote Originally Posted by cburden View Post
    When my Cc db needed servicing I put a rock show monarch plus on from my other bike. It has a m/m tune. I thought it rode well on my spitty......but not as good as the cane creek, that shock is amazing.
    Swapped the original Fox on my spitty with a monarch RT3 (M/M, no air volume spacers, 215-220 psi - 187lbs ready to ride) from the get go. Really happy with it. Super supple in the early stroke and quite some ramp up towards the end when things get super gnarly (flat landings, high speed plowing). Might say that this is might not be for everyone though, since you have to ride really aggressively to use all of the travel. So on a really relaxed XC loop I might only be using like 120mm of rear travel. But since nearly all of my trails have some jumps, really fast sections and/or gnarlier features this works ok for me

  6. #2206
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    Is anybody running 650b with the 26" dropouts? I've got gobs of room between the tire and chainstay bridge, 3/4"+ with my 26" wheels. With the extra 1/2" diameter of the 650b wheels and same size tires I'm thinking I will be ok... Maybe?

  7. #2207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acme54321 View Post
    Is anybody running 650b with the 26" dropouts? I've got gobs of room between the tire and chainstay bridge, 3/4"+ with my 26" wheels. With the extra 1/2" diameter of the 650b wheels and same size tires I'm thinking I will be ok... Maybe?
    It works with Rock Razor on 35mm rims. Barely

  8. #2208
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acme54321 View Post
    Is anybody running 650b with the 26" dropouts? I've got gobs of room between the tire and chainstay bridge, 3/4"+ with my 26" wheels. With the extra 1/2" diameter of the 650b wheels and same size tires I'm thinking I will be ok... Maybe?
    Ardent 2.35 on Flow Ex also fine

  9. #2209
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    Quote Originally Posted by hssp View Post
    It works with Rock Razor on 35mm rims. Barely
    Any chance of a photo? Running the same tyre and rim (Light Bicycle?), and was considering trying trying some 26" dropouts...

  10. #2210
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    It works, but you should tape the bridges on the rear triangle to protect from flying gravel

  11. #2211
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    Cool, thanks guys. I'm going with 38mm LB rims and a 2.35 Ikon out back so I'll let you know if it works and maybe post some pics.

  12. #2212
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    I'm running 2.3" DHR2s on 35mm LB rims in the 26" drops with no problem.

  13. #2213
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    anyone running a RS Vivid R2C (coil) on their spitty? i have my eyes set on one, but it has a M/H tune and i'm not sure would it work for the spitty...
    i'm 220 lbs geared up.

    also here is the last version:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Spitfire-wp_20150331_14_05_30_pro.jpg  

    Last edited by ddraz; 04-07-2015 at 01:19 PM.

  14. #2214
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    I would go for M/M or M/L on the spitty. Using an RT3 Monarch Debonair on mine in the M/M tune and it holds high in travel, having problems bottoming out on drops (rider is 73kg plus kit). My experience is that the Vivid Air stays high.

  15. #2215
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    Here's my "new-to-me" 2013. I put the MRP Stage on and WOW what a difference. I don't have much experience with the Pike, but this is far and away the best fork I've ridden.

    I love this bike.

    2013 Spitfire-img_0506.jpg


    XX1 Groupset
    Zee Brakes
    MRP Stage Fork
    Float CTD Shock
    Cromag Fubars
    Raceface Stem
    Canfield Pedals

  16. #2216
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    Killer build there. After reading Vital's review on the Stage I've been wanting to try one out.

  17. #2217
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    Nice looking bike!

    Now get rid of that Fox shock and you'll really be impressed. It's a better paper weight than a damper.

  18. #2218
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    Quote Originally Posted by amish_matt View Post
    Nice looking bike!

    Now get rid of that Fox shock and you'll really be impressed. It's a better paper weight than a damper.
    Ya, so I hear. I might just end up getting the Fox Avalanche'd as I think that'd be cheaper than buying a DBInline and selling the Fox.

  19. #2219
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    Hey guys, I'm about to build my new Spitfire frame up using a mix of old and new parts. I also bought a MRP AMg to secure my chain and protect my chainring from rocks. But looking at the way the ISCG 05 Tabs are welded to the frame, i got a bit worried. I have run a similar guide on my previous frame (Giant Reign X) without problems but the tabs on the Giant just seems beefier.

    Has anyone run a Iscg mounted taco style bash on the spitfire? Any recommandations or advice? I emailed Banshee at the end of last week but I did not get an answer yet.

  20. #2220
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    I have a Mozartt SRG guide on mine with no issues.

  21. #2221
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    I run an AMg on my spitfire, and have done for over a year with zero issues... works a charm.
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  22. #2222
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    Great news, thanks guys! I'll post a picture of my bike when its done!

  23. #2223
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    I run the Blackspire Bruiser on mine and it's been hit a few times without any issues...

  24. #2224
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    Suspension Rant.

    Warning!! This will be a rant!!

    I bought this bike last year without being able to ride it last year and bought an XL. The front end was too long even with a 35mm stem and so I bought a L. Fit was much better even though I have a lot of spacers under a 60mm stem with a 6 rise and a 50mm riser bar. I am settled with sizing, but I could probably go with a longer stem. I'll probably post a pic later with me on the bike.

    So now I am working on the suspension. After riding a few hardballs, I expected a suspension bike to pop off the ground when pushing down. I don't know if it was naive or not but I wanted to be able to sail through the air after popping off of every rock or 1' drop in the trail.

    Anyway, after swapping between two CCDB shocks an Air with a climb switch and an Inline. I have decided to keep the Air and sell the inline. The bike feels very firm and rough when riding along. I was at an "enduro" race in Pennsylvania and the bike felt very unbalanced front and rear.

    So I have decided it is now time to learn how to adjust the settings. I have read all of the posts in this thread and some tips from various magazines and online places. Here is my complaint. Why does everyone use different words when you have a turtle and rabbit at the bottom and a plus and minus at the top of the fork? Some reviews of this bike have stated " I setup the bike 4 clicks from full open." Or sometimes you will see bigger guys should run more rebound. Which way are they turning the knobs? I wish these magazine writers would list their height weight and the settings they set the fork and shock to just to give readers an understanding of what works for people of similar size.

    I have begun with the fork this morning and will move to the shock later. I am just under 6'2" and weigh around 215 naked. I have set the air pressure in a Pike to 70psi and the CCDBA wCS to 170. I rode through the same section of trail about 6-7 times this morning. On one ride I turned the bottom knob to full turtle and I could not tell any difference between the original setting and the change. I then ran one run at full rabbit and this is how I expected the bike to feel. I probably should add 10 more pounds to the fork and go a couple of clicks away from the rabbit after riding down a different section and pushing the ring to the top of the fork. Next week, I will move the compression settings on the fork between plus minus and settle on a setting.

    I will move the shock settings later and start with the low speed stuff. I don't know if my local trail has any places to affect high speed stuff.

    Questions:
    1.Fork: So my question is do these changes in the fork only affect the low speed stuff only?

    2. Shock: How will you know that the high speed stuff is being affected?

    3. Geometry Adjustments: I plan on doing a couple of other enduro races in a real setting. Blue mountain in PA. Does changing the dropouts from steep/high to middle or low/long change the shock settings in any way?
    2017 XL Santa Cruz Tallboy

  25. #2225
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    Quote Originally Posted by guswalls View Post
    Warning!! This will be a rant!!

    I bought this bike last year without being able to ride it last year and bought an XL. The front end was too long even with a 35mm stem and so I bought a L. Fit was much better even though I have a lot of spacers under a 60mm stem with a 6 rise and a 50mm riser bar. I am settled with sizing, but I could probably go with a longer stem. I'll probably post a pic later with me on the bike.

    So now I am working on the suspension. After riding a few hardballs, I expected a suspension bike to pop off the ground when pushing down. I don't know if it was naive or not but I wanted to be able to sail through the air after popping off of every rock or 1' drop in the trail.

    Anyway, after swapping between two CCDB shocks an Air with a climb switch and an Inline. I have decided to keep the Air and sell the inline. The bike feels very firm and rough when riding along. I was at an "enduro" race in Pennsylvania and the bike felt very unbalanced front and rear.

    So I have decided it is now time to learn how to adjust the settings. I have read all of the posts in this thread and some tips from various magazines and online places. Here is my complaint. Why does everyone use different words when you have a turtle and rabbit at the bottom and a plus and minus at the top of the fork? Some reviews of this bike have stated " I setup the bike 4 clicks from full open." Or sometimes you will see bigger guys should run more rebound. Which way are they turning the knobs? I wish these magazine writers would list their height weight and the settings they set the fork and shock to just to give readers an understanding of what works for people of similar size.

    I have begun with the fork this morning and will move to the shock later. I am just under 6'2" and weigh around 215 naked. I have set the air pressure in a Pike to 70psi and the CCDBA wCS to 170. I rode through the same section of trail about 6-7 times this morning. On one ride I turned the bottom knob to full turtle and I could not tell any difference between the original setting and the change. I then ran one run at full rabbit and this is how I expected the bike to feel. I probably should add 10 more pounds to the fork and go a couple of clicks away from the rabbit after riding down a different section and pushing the ring to the top of the fork. Next week, I will move the compression settings on the fork between plus minus and settle on a setting.

    I will move the shock settings later and start with the low speed stuff. I don't know if my local trail has any places to affect high speed stuff.

    Questions:
    1.Fork: So my question is do these changes in the fork only affect the low speed stuff only?

    2. Shock: How will you know that the high speed stuff is being affected?

    3. Geometry Adjustments: I plan on doing a couple of other enduro races in a real setting. Blue mountain in PA. Does changing the dropouts from steep/high to middle or low/long change the shock settings in any way?
    70 PSI @215 pounds is probably a little on the optimistic side... the pressure given on the lower leg is a good starting point when setting up the Pike...

    What is so difficult with the damping?
    Full open rebound is the fastest setting, so all the way turned to the rabbit if you will... hope that helps...

    Best is to first start with the suggestet airpressure and try both extremes of each damping settings if you do not know where to start, then work your way towards your personal setting... this depends a lot on your personal riding style and your favourite trails...

    Shock setting is of course not affected by the dropout setting, maybe minimal due to the shifted front/rear weight distribution...

  26. #2226
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    Quote Originally Posted by guswalls View Post
    Why does everyone use different words when you have a turtle and rabbit at the bottom and a plus and minus at the top of the fork?
    Because they are the actual technical names to each adjustment.
    Only Rockshox has those symbols.
    It's actually a jackalope, not a rabbit.

    Like most of us CCDB users, I started off with the base tune and went from there.
    A touch more LSC and LSR for me.

  27. #2227
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    seized bearing axles and damaged housing?

    Hi, I’ve trying to remove the bearings on my 2013 spitfire. To be honest, I bought it in December 2013 and this is the first change so its been 17 months (?!). However, that’s with light use (unfortunately I was renovating my house all last summer so couldn’t ride as much as I’d have liked).

    Anyway, I can’t remove the pivot axles at all. I’ve tried everything but it looks like they’re seized. I’ve sprayed some penetrating lube in this morning and will try and socket and G clamp them tonight. Has anyone got any tips?

    My bigger concern is that when I took the male pivot bolts off I looked at the frame housing for the bearings and it looked like some sort of damage around the housing (see picture). It is probably just where its been machined and there’s nothing to worry about. However, Im concerned it could be stress damage from seized bearings. The thing is, I can’t see how that’s possible as the linkage was moving freely, with no side play, and was smooth thru its curve. So I can’t see how it’s the nightmare scenario of seized bearings and a damaged frame.

    Can anyone reassure me that its nothing to worry about?

    thanks
    2013 Spitfire-bearings.jpg

  28. #2228
    FM
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    Looks fine to me....

    Have you tried tapping the pivots out with a mallet? Ideally thread a steel bolt (rather than the stock aluminum one) into the axles and tap on that.

    The thing I would be most careful to avoid is having the bearings come apart in the frame. But that's highly unlikely.

  29. #2229
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Looks fine to me....

    Have you tried tapping the pivots out with a mallet? Ideally thread a steel bolt (rather than the stock aluminum one) into the axles and tap on that.

    The thing I would be most careful to avoid is having the bearings come apart in the frame. But that's highly unlikely.
    cheers mate, yeah I've tried screwing the male pivot bolt back in a couple of turns and then hitting that with a rubber mallet. I think its going to have to be pressed as I don't want to end up whacking it too hard.

    its likely that the bearing will come out with the axle if its properly seized.

  30. #2230
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    Lots of sharp light taps with a metal hammer on a punch is a good way to loosen any seized up old grease.
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  31. #2231
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    cheers, I managed to remove the axles by pressing them out in the end, only a tiny bit of damage to the thread on the female axle. One of the bearings had seized so bad it came out with the axle! Its still fused on the axle and I've not even been able to remove to on a vice its that bad. Lesson learned

    on an unrelated note, re the 'exploded' plan of the Spitty on the banshee bikes website (tech section) all the component parts are numbered but where is the corresponding number key with serial numbers, dimensions etc?

  32. #2232
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    Question about shocks and tunings

    I just got a CC DB Inline for my 2013 Spitfire. Looking at the base tunes on banshee's site I was surprised to see the Inline needs 2 volume spacers, while the Air's don't take any.

    Is the inline really that much more linear than the ccdb air? Does the spitfire need a very progressive shock?

    Should I just go straight for the 2 volume spacers on the inline and not worry about it?

  33. #2233
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfeust View Post
    I just got a CC DB Inline for my 2013 Spitfire. Looking at the base tunes on banshee's site I was surprised to see the Inline needs 2 volume spacers, while the Air's don't take any.

    Is the inline really that much more linear than the ccdb air? Does the spitfire need a very progressive shock?

    Should I just go straight for the 2 volume spacers on the inline and not worry about it?
    Related question.

    I bought my Spitfire frame kit (2015) with a DBInline, does that mean my damper already has the mentioned spacers?

  34. #2234
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    Your shock should come pre tuned to base tune from cane creek, which includes spacers.
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  35. #2235
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Your shock should come pre tuned to base tune from cane creek, which includes spacers.
    Thanks for quick reply

  36. #2236
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    How much does the different geometry positions affect anti-squat? I heard a comments about the frame having better pedaling characteristics in the middle position. But do anyone have actual numbers?

    Builttoride: You don't happen to have linkage designs models of the bike in the different settings?

  37. #2237
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    I personally have never noticed a different pedaling characteristic through the geometry settings other than that the steeper settings make for a better seating-position for climbing due to the steeper SA ...

  38. #2238
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    The antisuat increases very slightly as BB drop increases (always will on any bike design), but is very minimal, and probably unnoticable even when trying to sense it.
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  39. #2239
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    Thanks! I had been told that the peadling should be better in the higher positions, so I changed from slackest to middle. At the same time i put on a easy rolling tyre and the ground dried up. The bike got faster, but I was even before your answer sceptical if the anti-squat was any part of it...

  40. #2240
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    Quote Originally Posted by zoorlen View Post
    I have some doubts about the shock: I don't want a Cane Creek, I've read a lot about reliability issues and here in Italy servicing is crazily expensive. What about Monarch? It is my understanding that an M/M tune would be fine, right? Would you go RT3 or Monarch Plus (both Debonair)?
    Hi. I changed stock Fox CTD Kashima to RS Monarch Plus RC3 Debonair (M/M tune) and the difference is as a night and day! Monarch is so smooth and progressive, it is very responsive even on small bumps, just like Pike on the front. Fox was very linear and not supportive at all. The fact is that it is hard to bottom out the Monarch during "normal" ride, but this bike begs for jumps and drops so this is actually not a problem.

    Of course Cane Creek DB Inline may be much better shock as many riders claim, but I haven't had an opportunity to try it.

    That's how it looks now:

    2013 Spitfire-01.jpg2013 Spitfire-02.jpg2013 Spitfire-05.jpg

    It is hard to show real color of fluo orange frame on the pictures!

  41. #2241
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    Wow! Sweet ride Madek! I ran the same shock on my Rune while my ccdb was being fixed. The rock shox was great and the only real difference was I could fine tune the ccdb more than the rs, other than that I was totally happy with the monarch. My Cc inline just got back from a warranty repair. Cane creek has amazing customer service but it's weird how many problems I'm having with there shocks.

    Try that slack setting.....

  42. #2242
    Hard funkin´ Kraut
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    Oh yes, great looking Spitfire madek - love that orange/black color-sheme.

  43. #2243
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    Hey guys, I need to change my cranks. What q-factor must i choose for a '13 Spitfire ? 156 or 168 ? Thanks !

    Cheers from Switzerland !

  44. #2244
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    Probably no way around the 168mm version...

  45. #2245
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    Sorry but my poor English don't help me to understand your answer....


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  46. #2246
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    168mm is required.
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  47. #2247
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    Thanks !


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  48. #2248
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    Yesterday I took my spitfire out for the first ride.

    Wow ! What an amazing bikes.
    So much fun.
    Already sold my 7" freeride-rig and even my aggressive AM Hardtail seems to be dispensable now.

    I´ve never riden a bike which is so aggresive and fun to shred and at the same time so easy to pedal and so effective to accelerate on every terrain.

    I love it.




  49. #2249
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    Nice build.Is that a Pike on the front?

  50. #2250
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    Looks like a Lyrik to me.

  51. #2251
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    It is a Lyrik

  52. #2252
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    Yes. Lyrik Solo Air Mission Control DH 160mm. 26"


    Second tour today with the Spitfire. I still can´t believe how good this thing pedals.
    Funny thing:
    Even my wife noticed it. (She is absolutely NOT interessested into to the technical/equipment side of biking and doesn´t care about things like this)
    But on the tour today we changed bikes for 1/2 mile, because her bike was making noise and I wanted to ride it and check where the noise was coming from.
    She was riding a ragley marley hardtail, which is 24lbs and an easy pedalling bike.
    (so a lot lighter than my spitty)

    After riding my spitfire for 1/2 mile she said "what is different with your bike to mine ? Do you have a different gear-setup or something ?This things rolls so ******** well."

    Both bikes are 26", both have a 30T nw chainring and a 11-42 sprocket.
    So absolutely identical. Tires are quite the same, too.
    Her spontaneous statement that the spitty is rolling superb is a strong confirmation for the imprssion I got.

  53. #2253
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    I´m 180/181 cm tall, with 83/84 cm Inseam.

    I always was on Medium-Size Frames, but my Riding-Style turnes more and more towards AM/Enduro/Allday-Touring. 50% Climbing, 50% going flat or down, with lots of Pedalling. For this Medium was a really good fit, but had the Feeling that a large Frame could slightly do better on long Climbs and can give more Stability in steep technical Sections.
    This is my first large Framesize ever and it turned out just like this! I have to say that the Medium Spitfire was equipped with a -1 Deg Angleset (like the Rune), the large now has -0,5 Deg, 26 Dropouts and Fork and works pretty well for me in every Aspect.

    While the V2 Banshees do have a nicely dialed Forward-Style-Geometry, it´s easy to go with the next larger Framesize and reduce Stem-Length if necessary. The longer Reach and Wheelbase has one single and great Effect: Your Position and Weight over the Bike is pretty damn centered, which makes it very controllable in any Situation. So it´s not less nimble - just less nervous! Especially when the Trails gets rough, steep and fast ...
    This advice puts me at ease a bit. I am having pre-build jitters that I may have gotten the wrong size. I'm 180.5cm best I can measure. Went with a large and hope to run a 35mm stem/760mm bars from my current rig (Large Santa Cruz Nickel which with the above setup, feels pretty cramped).

    Will report back. My DBinline won't be back from service till next week but I hope to get the whole rolling chassis together this weekend. Yeeeeeee haw.


  54. #2254
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    i have a large with 40mm stem and 0 offset seat post at 180cm height and it fits like a glove... will definitely try to run a shorter stem at some point, but this is just fine. no need to worry.

  55. #2255
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    Our latest Spitfire build. I've named it Mo' Murda.
    2013 Spitfire-11131756_941451695874993_5893089431510462186_o.jpg
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  56. #2256
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmscheip View Post
    This advice puts me at ease a bit. I am having pre-build jitters that I may have gotten the wrong size. I'm 180.5cm best I can measure. Went with a large and hope to run a 35mm stem/760mm bars from my current rig (Large Santa Cruz Nickel which with the above setup, feels pretty cramped) ...
    I think you made the right choice with going size large!
    I´m running 790mm bars and stem-length varies from 35 to 50mm, now recently feeling right at home with a 40mm stem.
    Apart from that I´ve never ever regretted to upsize from medium to a large Spitfire and since then my setup has not changed yet - still neutral setting, -0,5 deg angleset and 650B´s in the short 26er dropouts ....

    @ DirtMerchantBicycles: Nice Spitfire!

  57. #2257
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    There is a lot of praise for this bike, and on paper the numbers stack up really well with what I'm looking at for my next bike. Hopefully I'll be able to arrange a demo on one some time, but in the mean time I'd like to get some feedback on how people are finding the Spitty on longer all-day trail ride time adventures? I'm a one-bike kinda guy and really need something versatile that can handle the all day adventure rides as well as tearing down hills and railing berms, and then climbing back up forestry roads.

    Not much to ask, I know...

  58. #2258
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    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    There is a lot of praise for this bike, and on paper the numbers stack up really well with what I'm looking at for my next bike. Hopefully I'll be able to arrange a demo on one some time, but in the mean time I'd like to get some feedback on how people are finding the Spitty on longer all-day trail ride time adventures? I'm a one-bike kinda guy and really need something versatile that can handle the all day adventure rides as well as tearing down hills and railing berms, and then climbing back up forestry roads.

    Not much to ask, I know...

    I guess it depends on what you're looking for in an "all day adventure bike". It's pretty well established that the Spitfire is an amazing bike for aggressive trail riding and tearing down hills. I would assume the same things that make it a great at that would also make it great for adventure riding. It's a perfect balance of weight and durability (with a bent towards toughness/durability). It climbs well. Really I just think you'd need to pick a comfy seat for all day riding, and the Spitty would suit you very well.

  59. #2259
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    Hi Guys,
    had my first ride of the year last week and got a awful creaking sound from the shock area that was not there last season.

    I did replace my shock bushings over the winter.

    Should I have greased the outside of the shock mounting bolt pins where they go inside of the bushings?

    Could I have over tightened the mounting bolts?

    been too busy with work since the ride to pull things apart and troubleshoot the issue, but it's driving me crazy thinking about it.

  60. #2260
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    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    There is a lot of praise for this bike, and on paper the numbers stack up really well with what I'm looking at for my next bike. Hopefully I'll be able to arrange a demo on one some time, but in the mean time I'd like to get some feedback on how people are finding the Spitty on longer all-day trail ride time adventures? I'm a one-bike kinda guy and really need something versatile that can handle the all day adventure rides as well as tearing down hills and railing berms, and then climbing back up forestry roads.

    Not much to ask, I know...
    I´m a "one-for-all-bike" guy too and using my Spitfire for what you have described. The majority of the trails I ride consists of 50/50% climbing and descending, sometimes a short 2-3 hour trip, sometimes starting early morning to spend a whole day in the woods.
    I can nothing but praise the Spitfire for this.
    The KS-Link is very efficient and neutral for long and heavy pedaling, while it´s geometry is still one of the most "aggressive" in the 140mm trail bike-category. Makes it so much fun on the downhills, but is pretty good for pedaling and climbing as well - nicely balanced and centered.

    As jfeust already mentioned: Get a comfortable seat and a cockpit that feels right at home for hours. Take your time to setup your suspension, because the KS-Link is very versatile and can be setup very plush and/or very lively, active and poppy. It´s worth the effort!

  61. #2261
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    Cheers, good write up. Thankfully despite winter nearly being here I should be able to arrange a demo on one in a couple of weeks time. Looking forward to it!

    The weight is a little heavier than I'd like, but my current ride is no feather-weight so that shouldn't bother me. I guess with a good wheelset and gradually upgrading some of the parts as money allows I should be able to get it down a little. Anyway; handling/performance > light weight, and everyone says they pedal like a much light bike....

  62. #2262
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    My Spitfire is 1lb. heavier than my last bike (Santa Cruz Nickel), but it rides way lighter. I was initially concerned with the frame weight compared to some of the other frames I was cross-shopping, but it's been a total non issue. Carbon wheels are amazing things.

  63. #2263
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    Well, there´s no doubt that weight matters at some point. But in all honesty: Banshee did an amazing job according a pedal friendly suspension and a great geometry to get you everywhere up and down. The Spitfire rides so much more effortless and lightish than numbers on paper might suggest!

    My Spitfire weights around 13,7 kg, but it feels much lighter. To manage long or technical climbing it´s a lot more important to have my legs, fitness and overall endurance in good shape, instead of saving 300 grams on the frame ...

  64. #2264
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    An action shot in Fruita CO

    Nice little side drop that someone setup on Horsethief Bench. The Spitty was rocking it. I didn't attempt the large multi-tiered drop-in that takes you down to Horsethief Bench but hopefully next time I'll give it a go.


    2013 Spitfire-img_0777_enh.jpg

  65. #2265
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    Thanks to Ethan @ DirtMerchant for hooking me up with a new Spitty frame! Build shot:


  66. #2266
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    stunning bike. i just bought a Transition Smuggler but have always lusted for a Spitfire. in so many ways it's the right bike and i may always regret not having one.

  67. #2267
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Thanks to Ethan @ DirtMerchant for hooking me up with a new Spitty frame! Build shot:
    Great build and excellent tire combo!
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  68. #2268
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    Hoping for some advice here,

    Had my spitfire frame since January 2015 and recently had to send the ccdba back as it was leaking oil and there was viable scoring to the shock shaft. Like lots of little scratches when exposed to light.

    The warranty centre refuse to do it on warranty as they believe the frame's misaligned putting a load of lateral force through the shock body, causing the damage.

    Now I've looked at the frame and it doesn't appear to be twisted. The only thing I've noticed is that the swingarm is 1.5-2mm further away from the seat tube on one side than the other (see below). This distance doesn't change throughout the stroke so it's not twisted. I'm not sure if this is an issue or not as if it's not intended it will still put lateral load on the shock, but would 1-2mm be damaging or within manufacturing tolerance? Anyone else had similar on their frames?

    In these pics I've fitted the caliper to the right side, locked it and then placed it on the left side and a 1-2mm gap is obvious.

    20150514_171022 by enigmas2012, on Flickr

    20150514_170914 by enigmas2012, on Flickr

  69. #2269
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    Hey, just ordered my 2015 Banshee Spitfire. I'll be getting a pike and just wanted opinions on 150mm vs 160mm.

    For reference Im coming off a 160mm Nomad 2C with Lyrik Coil Uturns at 160mm set up with a vivid coil with offset bushings and a -1 angle set. HA was less than 66 and it killed it down but was pretty sluggish up.

    My time on 650B tells me that you can get similar bump eating capability from less travel with the larger hoops. I dont want to slacken out the bike too much (66 is plenty slack and I dont want to lose its climbing ability.

    I ride mainly smoother trails due to my location 65% and shuttles 35% when I get the lads together. Not into full on DH stuff but do enjoy blasting through the rough stuff when I can.

    Im leaning toward the 150mm pike. Is there merit in considering the 160? If I find I want a slacker head angle I'd rather get an angle set and keep bar and BB height similar rather than putting on a taller fork.

    I'll post pics once built but it'll be black, medium, pike, renthal cockpit, DT/derby wheelset, E13 crank, SRAM shifting and brakes, reverb etc.

    Thanks in advance.

  70. #2270
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    @meta4x: I´m running a 160 BOS Deville on my large Spitire. This fork is the 26-Version, with 545mm A-to-C and clears a 650B tire fine. Having the rear with 650B in the 26 (short) dropouts, neutral flipchip-setting and a -0,5 deg angleset to get the 74 deg SA and archive the 66 deg HA. BB is at 345mm. Loving the geometry this way because it works fine for me both up and down!

    As far as I know a 650B 150mm Pike has the same A-to-C, so this fork would be my favorite, if I were you. Like you I would rather go with an angleset instead of more travel and keeping the BB low, although a 160mm travel fork suits fine on the Spitfire, too ...

    From what you describe a 150mm Pike should do just fine for you.

  71. #2271
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    @meta4x: I´m running a 160 BOS Deville on my large Spitire. This fork is the 26-Version, with 545mm A-to-C and clears a 650B tire fine. Having the rear with 650B in the 26 (short) dropouts, neutral flipchip-setting and a -0,5 deg angleset to get the 74 deg SA and archive the 66 deg HA. BB is at 345mm. Loving the geometry this way because it works fine for me both up and down!

    As far as I know a 650B 150mm Pike has the same A-to-C, so this fork would be my favorite, if I were you. Like you I would rather go with an angleset instead of more travel and keeping the BB low, although a 160mm travel fork suits fine on the Spitfire, too ...

    From what you describe a 150mm Pike should do just fine for you.
    Thanks for the feedback.

    Anyone here on Pikes at 160mm with something to add? Interested in your experiences.

  72. #2272
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    Quote Originally Posted by meta4x View Post
    Thanks for the feedback.

    Anyone here on Pikes at 160mm with something to add? Interested in your experiences.
    If going pike I would go 150 to keep the same h2c as was intended.

    But.. why not consider the MRP Stage, which at 160mm is the same h2c as the 150 pike.

    I ride it and love it. I believe Keith from Banshee also uses the Stage on his Spitfire.


    It also fits both 26 and 27.5 so in many ways is the perfect fork for this bike.

  73. #2273
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    My Spitfire build:

    2013 Spitfire-belelle.jpg

    2013 Spitfire-forgoselo.jpg

    26" Wheels setup.

    Now, updated with a 650B RS Revelation Fork to accomplish the recommendation of the manufacturer of 545mm A2C.

  74. #2274
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    Thought I would throw my spitfire up. This is my second one. Had the mint in a medium. Swapped to a large raw.






    [QUOTE=swatto90;2950220]


    Forks - Pikes 160mm
    Rear shock - CCDB cs
    Headset - Banshee Munro Taper 44/56
    Seat post- reverb stealth
    Tires - MaxxisHigh roller II - 27.5x2.4 - 3C
    Rims - carbonality FR 650b
    Hub - Hope Pro 2
    Hub - Hope Pro 2 - 142x12 - XD driver
    Cranks - Race FaceEvolve - 175mm - 32T Narrow Wide
    Chain - YabanSLA-H11 - 11Speed
    Cassette - SRAMX1 - 11SPD - 10-42
    Rear Derailleur - SRAMX1 - 11SPD
    Shifter - SRAMX1 - 11SPD - Trigger
    Handlebar - Renthal Fatbar Carbon 780mm 1.25 rise.
    Stem - 35MM DMR
    Grips - ODI Vans
    Brake - Saint - 203mm
    Brake - Saint - 160

  75. #2275
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    Something's a miss

    Any idea what's causing this to happen? Front shock mount...
    http://forums.mtbr.com/asset.php?fid...0&d=1432055919
    Spity is about 6 months old
    Is this why I keep riding in circles?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Spitfire-image.jpg  


  76. #2276
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    To me, it looks like someone put in the wrong spacers for the damper attaching axle...

  77. #2277
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePigMatt View Post
    Hoping for some advice here,

    Had my spitfire frame since January 2015 and recently had to send the ccdba back as it was leaking oil and there was viable scoring to the shock shaft. Like lots of little scratches when exposed to light.

    The warranty centre refuse to do it on warranty as they believe the frame's misaligned putting a load of lateral force through the shock body, causing the damage.

    Now I've looked at the frame and it doesn't appear to be twisted. The only thing I've noticed is that the swingarm is 1.5-2mm further away from the seat tube on one side than the other (see below). This distance doesn't change throughout the stroke so it's not twisted. I'm not sure if this is an issue or not as if it's not intended it will still put lateral load on the shock, but would 1-2mm be damaging or within manufacturing tolerance? Anyone else had similar on their frames?

    In these pics I've fitted the caliper to the right side, locked it and then placed it on the left side and a 1-2mm gap is obvious.
    Looks like the frame is not twisted, but has some misalignment. If I were you I would check back with your LBS to see what they can do.
    The simple solution could be a slightly offset mounting of the shock where it´s attached to the rear, to reduce the lateral load?!?

    Quote Originally Posted by SCTRa View Post
    Any idea what's causing this to happen? Front shock mount...
    http://forums.mtbr.com/asset.php?fid...0&d=1432055919
    Spity is about 6 months old
    Is this why I keep riding in circles?
    Were did you get your frame from? Did it come this way from your dealer?
    Anyway, this looks completely wrong, as usually the shock has to be centered via bushings in both mounts ...

  78. #2278
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    I had a frame that looked like that. Sent back for warranty. Main pivot mount on seat tube was welded offset.

  79. #2279
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    Hmmm ... the lower link and the lower pivot at the seat tube and above the BB is offset on the driveside ...

  80. #2280
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    2013 Spitfire-17420835124_7ab5d952cc_b.jpg

  81. #2281
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    Holy molly that's a great pic! Whats the location?
    Last edited by cburden; 05-24-2015 at 10:44 AM. Reason: misspelled

  82. #2282
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    Thanks! That's at Buffalo Creek in Colorado.

    Quote Originally Posted by cburden View Post
    Holy molly that's a great pic! Whats he location?

  83. #2283
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    Another pic of my Spitfire:

    2013 Spitfire-img_20150520_122321.jpg

  84. #2284
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    Spitfire Build

    Got my frame today. 2015 medium with 650b drop outs and CCDB Air CS.

    On my kitchen digital scales weighed as separate components (axles, drop outs, bolts etc / shock / frame) it came in at 3619 grams or 7.98 pounds.

    Once bolted together it weighed 8.4pounds. Bugger. Note to self: get good quality scales.

    Anyway, the goal is sub 30 for general trail riding

    It'll be built with a 150mm Pike, e13 TRSr cranks, renthal carbon bar and apex stem, derby rims with DT350 hubs and aerolight spokes, Sram X01 drive train, Guide RSC brakes, Maxxis rubber and a Reverb.

    Hope to have it built this weekend but still waiting on some parts.Here is the frame.
    2013 Spitfire-img_0425.jpg

  85. #2285
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    I wouldn't worry about the weight of the spitfire, it rides way lighter than it is. Plus you"ll be glad of the extra strength and weight of the frame once you realise just how capable it is for a 140mm bike!!

  86. #2286
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    Yeah cheers, "I ain't bovvered" as one lovely English lass once said. Weighed it again on another scale and it read a bit lighter. I should get under 30 with this build.

    My nomad was 31.5 pounds with a coil Lyrik and Vivid and 2.4 Ardents. This will be set up all air with Ardent Race 2.2's and a wheel set that is 150grams lighter than the last.

    It'll be a weapon.

  87. #2287
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    With Nobby Nics I was at 29lbs. Since I put the Super Gravity Magic Mary and Rock Razor on it, it is just under 31lbs. I didn't think that was too bad.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Spitfire-photo-1-14-.jpg  


  88. #2288
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    You're cheating, no dropper post ;-)

  89. #2289
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    That's true! That's my next purchase.

  90. #2290
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sachem6 View Post
    With Nobby Nics I was at 29lbs. Since I put the Super Gravity Magic Mary and Rock Razor on it, it is just under 31lbs. I didn't think that was too bad.
    Awesome looking bike. Than anno black looks soo good with the new Fox fork.

    Are you running 27.5 wheels? If so are you using the 26" dropouts?

  91. #2291
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    Build finished but with loaner wheels. Unfortunately courier never made it here this morning.

    29.05 pounds with the Ardent on the front, 30.05 with the Minion DHF and fresh goop.

    Hitting Rotorua up tomorrow

    2013 Spitfire-img_8113.jpg

    2013 Spitfire-img_0455.jpg
    Last edited by meta4x; 05-30-2015 at 12:30 AM.

  92. #2292
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    First ride

    First ride yesterday at Rotorua's infamous Redwoods.

    Set up the CCBDACS as per recommended settings and left it there for the day. Played with the Pike and tire pressure after that.

    I wont bore you all with minutae but this the best bike I have ridden let alone owned (and I'ved ridden and owned a lot of bikes)

    Looking forward to my wheels arriving and getting back out there. Hope to have a video of its first run down Eagle vs Shark soon.

    Cheers, glad to be part of the family.

    2013 Spitfire-img_0462.jpg

  93. #2293
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    Quote Originally Posted by meta4x View Post
    ... I wont bore you all with minutae but this the best bike I have ridden let alone owned (and I'ved ridden and owned a lot of bikes) ...
    Hmmm - too bad you don´t like to tell us why you like the Spitfire this much ...

  94. #2294
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfeust View Post
    Awesome looking bike. Than anno black looks soo good with the new Fox fork.

    Are you running 27.5 wheels? If so are you using the 26" dropouts?
    Yes, running @7.5 wheels, but with the @7.5 droputs.
    And thanks for the compliment!

  95. #2295
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Hmmm - too bad you don´t like to tell us why you like the Spitfire this much ...
    OK, if you insist

    First of all, someback ground. I'm 42, been riding MTB seriously for 25 years and have owned many full suspension bikes over the years. My last 3 trails bikes have been a Carbon Nomad 2c, Alloy Nomad 2 and a Commencal Meta 4x.

    It took me 2.5 years to get the carbon Nomad running how I wanted it - Vivid Coil shock running offset bushings and a -1 angle set had the bike running as good as I could get it but it was being held back by the short reach, VPP funkyness and slugishness on flatter ground. The bike went with me to Whistler and many shuttle days but riding a mates 140mm 650b trail bike then my nomad back to back on the same trails had me convinced, shorter travel with bigger wheels and modern geometry is the way to go.

    I test rode a Spitty last November. TBH the set up was pretty crap as it was a demo bike with heavy components and the ride time less than optimal time to actually get acquainted but I was immediately impressed with the geometry and antisquat the suspension displayed. Good support without blowing through: using its travel 'economically".

    So Sunday was my first ride, down some of NZ's best single track. I immediately felt at home going fast. The bike was super stable, agile and could be plowed when needed.

    All the comments I've read on here "rides lighter than it is", "rides like a bike with more travel" all came to mind. I was super stoked at how well it pedaled and got up little climbs. Didnt really ride up any major climbs as we were shuttling.

    The set up pictureed above was 30.05 pounds. Borrowed wheels and a Minion DHF front tyre and Ikon 2.2 3C rear. I got my new flitee wheels today - derby rims on DT350 hubs, aerolite spokes and hub engagement upgrade. I've set them up tubeless with 3C Ikon 2.35 Front and 2.2 rear. I've saved 1.5 pounds in weight, bike now weights 28.48 pounds.

    After my first days riding it feels like the perfect combination of my old Meta 4X for agility, the Nomad C for stiffess and my Iron Horse Sunday for suspension feel/antisquat.

    Best. Bike. Yet.

    Decent photos to follow but here are a couple of shots

    2013 Spitfire-img_0492.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0489.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0488.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0487.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0485.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0484-1-.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0483.jpg

    </title> <meta name="robots" content="index,follow" /> <meta name="GOOGLEBOT" content="INDEX, FOLLOW" /> <link rel="canonical" href="http://www.flitewheels.co.nz" /> <script type="***************" src="//ajax.googleapis.com/ajax/libs/jquery/1.4.2/jqu
    Last edited by meta4x; 06-02-2015 at 11:35 PM. Reason: Added photos

  96. #2296
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    I went from a small meta4x (brilliant little bike) to a medium spitfire and was worried it was gonna be to stretched out, 2 years on and i'm still loving it!!

  97. #2297
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    I've only run 26's on my spitfire but I need to get new dropouts and have a set of 27.5 wheels. Should I get 26" dropouts and run smaller tires, or should I just go for the 27.5 dropouts and their 17.4" chainstay length?

  98. #2298
    smartass
    Reputation: amish_matt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    567
    Depends on the tire. I'm running Maxxis 2.3" DHR2's in 650b in the 26" drops with no problems.

    I don't think my Ardent 2.4's would fit in the 26" drops, but most tires will.

  99. #2299
    mtbr member
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    Jul 2012
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    31

    photoupload

    this view cost me a broken pinky,

  100. #2300
    mtbr member
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    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    742
    Few months in and loving it! Trying to lay it down flat after a race last wknd....need moar practice!