Page 22 of 26 FirstFirst ... 12181920212223242526 LastLast
Results 2,101 to 2,200 of 2504

Thread: 2013 Spitfire

  1. #2101
    mtbr member
    Reputation: savo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    780
    Any difference between the 2013, 2014 and 2015 production frame?

  2. #2102
    mtbr member
    Reputation: savo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    780
    Quote Originally Posted by Ucio View Post
    Behave very good What do you want to now?
    I was just wondering if the coil shock could be too linear for the suspension design.

    The following would make me think it's not ideal... if a debonair is too high volume, a coil will not have enough progression as well

    Quote Originally Posted by babyz View Post
    I have exchanged emails with Banshee and they distinctly advised against the Debonair shock as it is too high volume for the Spitfire.

  3. #2103
    mtbr member
    Reputation: zuuds's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    472
    Quote Originally Posted by savo View Post
    Any difference between the 2013, 2014 and 2015 production frame?
    I think 2013-2014 are the same, but for the 2015 model year, they added a provision in the seat tube for stealth dropper post mounting, the decal scheme has changed slightly, and there is a new paint color.

  4. #2104
    Mr. Knowitall
    Reputation: hssp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    852
    Well, my few rides with a normal Debonair Monarch gives me the feeling that Debonair is just right for the spitty...

  5. #2105
    Braaap
    Reputation: DirtMerchantBicycles's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    417
    Quote Originally Posted by zuuds View Post
    I think 2013-2014 are the same, but for the 2015 model year, they added a provision in the seat tube for stealth dropper post mounting, the decal scheme has changed slightly, and there is a new paint color.
    Push those years back one.

    2014-2015 frames are identical with the exception of decals and paint.

    2013 frames DO NOT have stealth dropper post routing and have a slightly different tube set.
    Dirt Merchant Bicycles
    Providing unrivaled support and unbeatable pricing on all cycling goods to riders near and far.

  6. #2106
    smartass
    Reputation: amish_matt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    569
    Quote Originally Posted by hssp View Post
    Well, my few rides with a normal Debonair Monarch gives me the feeling that Debonair is just right for the spitty...
    Agreed. My Monarch RT3 Debonair feels awesome, and it's so much better than the Fox CTD it's not even fair. Feels like a Pike for the rear.

  7. #2107
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    122
    Quote Originally Posted by amish_matt View Post
    Agreed. My Monarch RT3 Debonair feels awesome, and it's so much better than the Fox CTD it's not even fair. Feels like a Pike for the rear.
    Interesting, I'll try to reach out to the Banshee guys again to clarify...I originally wanted a Monarch RT3 Debonair, so if it is in fact a good option I'll definitely be looking into it again.
    2014 Banshee Spitfire 650b
    2011-ish Chromag Samurai

  8. #2108
    mtbr member
    Reputation: savo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    780
    Quote Originally Posted by DirtMerchantBicycles View Post
    2014-2015 frames are identical with the exception of decals and paint.

    2013 frames DO NOT have stealth dropper post routing and have a slightly different tube set.
    Is there a weight difference, because of the different tubeset?

  9. #2109
    Mr. Knowitall
    Reputation: hssp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    852

    Sv: 2013 Spitfire

    Quote Originally Posted by savo View Post
    Is there a weight difference, because of the different tubeset?
    Yes. As well as some changes to the rear triangle, shedding some weight.

  10. #2110
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3
    Well........just had a reply from Keith on twitter. Debonair works well in both RT3 & RC3. Recommended tune for frame is M/M. RC3 it is then!!!!!

  11. #2111
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    86
    Hi guys,

    A future 2015 Banshee Spitfire owner here with a question. I'm planning on buying a 2015 Spitfire frame (Raw, size L, with CC DB Inline), but have a question about the dropouts. I'm planning on mounting 26'' wheels (of a bike I don't use often) first, but I'm thinking of eventually going to 650B. Don't know how long that is going to take (depends on cash flow, but might take a while (student)), but I'm planning on mounting 650B Pike from the start.. I've read that a 650b fork with 26'' wheels won't be a problem (actually, even more mud clearance!) so no worries there.

    However, now the question is, shall I get the 26'' dropouts or the 650B dropouts? Any thoughts?

    Cheers!

  12. #2112
    Mr. Knowitall
    Reputation: hssp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    852
    Get the 26" drops! They are way shorter, giving more playful handling. Going 27.5" may go ok with some tires, where the height is the limiting factor. I have used Rock Razor 27.5" with some success using 26" drops.

  13. #2113
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    86
    Thanks mate, sounds like a good plan! Shop offered me a 650B Pike for a reasonable price together with the frame. Still doubt a bit since it's a hell of a lot of cash, but on the other hand with the current interest rates, why bother keeping all the cash guarded at the bank, right?

  14. #2114
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    31
    I'm interested in a Spitfire V2 with DBAIR Inline, and would appreciate comments on my notes below.

    I am 160 lb, 5'-9" tall, slightly longer than average arms/legs, and looking to run a "shorter" stem, so I assume a medium frame size is a given for me, correct? I've never ridden any Banshee and it's hard to find one around here in Calgary to check size.

    I want to move most of my newer parts over from my very old, but well maintained/upgraded Specialized Enduro, 2003 medium frame (yes, it's an antique!) I have new XT brakeset and XT 2x10 drivetrain, 30.9mm by 5 inch Reverb dropper, personally built wheels which I like (Alex Supra D 26" with Chris King rear 135mm, and unfortunately front uses the Specialized Skraxle skewer hub, not 15mm)

    I will retire my 2007 Talas R 100mm-140mm fork and bite the bullet on a Pike (single position I think) in either 150 or 160mm. I hear most folks recommend the 160 and dual-position isn't so popular on the Spitire from my research, so I will plan to go for single position. The new Fox 36 RC2 160 looks nice in reviews, but seems to be so much more pricey than I can find a Pike so I'm figuring on the Pike.

    I also don't want to rule out 650B but that will mean additionally a new rear rim/spokes to build up. I have an 11/36 cassette so at least I will have some lower gearing going up to 650B. The front wheel would have to be re-built anyway for a the 15mm hub since I only have a QR hub now on the front. Since I'm getting a new fork anyway and need to re-build the front wheel at least, I've been struggling with whether to go the extra mile (and increase chances wife will divorce me due to extra cost) to go 650B. The extra cost should be limited to building up a new rear wheel and new tires I think. I like very wide rims so I figure I need to build my own up, perhaps with the low-cost Chinese carbon rims to get a really wide set with decent weight at a more reasonable price. Should I try hard to make 650B work?

    By the way, this will be my only bike other than the DJ and I will do mostly trail, some extended mountain climbing, some light park riding, on it so I'm hoping for a reasonably well-rounded bike, within a couple pounds of my current setup (~28lb). I know the Spitty will be more downhill oriented than I currently have and that's good.

    Any thoughts on any of these points is greatly appreciated!

  15. #2115
    mtbr member
    Reputation: zuuds's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    472
    Quote Originally Posted by happymedium View Post
    I'm interested in a Spitfire V2 with DBAIR Inline, and would appreciate comments on my notes below.

    I am 160 lb, 5'-9" tall, slightly longer than average arms/legs, and looking to run a "shorter" stem, so I assume a medium frame size is a given for me, correct? I've never ridden any Banshee and it's hard to find one around here in Calgary to check size.

    I want to move most of my newer parts over from my very old, but well maintained/upgraded Specialized Enduro, 2003 medium frame (yes, it's an antique!) I have new XT brakeset and XT 2x10 drivetrain, 30.9mm by 5 inch Reverb dropper, personally built wheels which I like (Alex Supra D 26" with Chris King rear 135mm, and unfortunately front uses the Specialized Skraxle skewer hub, not 15mm)

    I will retire my 2007 Talas R 100mm-140mm fork and bite the bullet on a Pike (single position I think) in either 150 or 160mm. I hear most folks recommend the 160 and dual-position isn't so popular on the Spitire from my research, so I will plan to go for single position. The new Fox 36 RC2 160 looks nice in reviews, but seems to be so much more pricey than I can find a Pike so I'm figuring on the Pike.

    I also don't want to rule out 650B but that will mean additionally a new rear rim/spokes to build up. I have an 11/36 cassette so at least I will have some lower gearing going up to 650B. The front wheel would have to be re-built anyway for a the 15mm hub since I only have a QR hub now on the front. Since I'm getting a new fork anyway and need to re-build the front wheel at least, I've been struggling with whether to go the extra mile (and increase chances wife will divorce me due to extra cost) to go 650B. The extra cost should be limited to building up a new rear wheel and new tires I think. I like very wide rims so I figure I need to build my own up, perhaps with the low-cost Chinese carbon rims to get a really wide set with decent weight at a more reasonable price. Should I try hard to make 650B work?

    By the way, this will be my only bike other than the DJ and I will do mostly trail, some extended mountain climbing, some light park riding, on it so I'm hoping for a reasonably well-rounded bike, within a couple pounds of my current setup (~28lb). I know the Spitty will be more downhill oriented than I currently have and that's good.

    Any thoughts on any of these points is greatly appreciated!
    I would go Fox 36- fully adjustable hi/lo speed compression damping unlike the Pike - contact bikerbob on this forum he can get you a great deal on one (or a Pike) The pricing of the Fox and Pike is not too far off if you shop smart.

    I would also go with a new 650B wheelset in good old fashioned aluminum. A solid bang for the buck wheelset like Hope Hoops or Spank Oozy. it sounds like you keep/maintain your gear long term, so 26" tire selection may dwindle in the future - another reason to go 650B. You can get 135mm dropouts for the spitty to run your 135mm rear wheel, but you would still have to rebuild your front wheel, so I would just get new wheelset. With the Fox 36 you can run 20mm or 15mm TA or (or 15QR if you go with the Pike), and 12x142 rear. 135mm QR rear is a dying standard and will not be as stiff as 142x12.

  16. #2116
    smartass
    Reputation: amish_matt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    569
    happymedium:

    As far as sizing, I'm a little under 5'8", completely average arm and leg length, and ride a medium with a 40mm stem and 787mm bars. I had a 35mm stem but that felt too cramped.

    At 5'9" I'd guess you could go either way, depending on stem length and bar width preference. Possibly a large with a 30-35mm stem, or a medium with a 50mm or longer stem.

    If you can afford it, get the LB carbon rims and go 650b. Super light wheels are a-****ing-mazing, and I can't see ever going back, and the slightly larger diameter is noticable in a good way. My medium Spitfire with I9 hubs on LB carbon rims, carbon cranks and bars and a dropper post weighs right about 29lbs, but rides lighter than my old 28lb. 26" bike with alloy rims.

    I'm also running a 150mm Pike Solo Air, and wouldn't want the front end or BB any higher (I'm in the slack setting) for trail riding, and haven't felt the 150mm limiting me in any way.

    After building this bike, I sold my DH bike.

  17. #2117
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    78
    If you dont have a huge pile of cash to spend, I would definitly go with a 650b Pike run that even if you stick with 26". Carbon rims are for dentists, but consider getting a new decent wheel set since you need to get the qr-dropout if you are going to use your current rear hub. It is proabably better value to get a new wheel set.

  18. #2118
    FM
    FM is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: FM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    9,373
    Quote Originally Posted by Dystopism View Post
    Carbon rims are for dentists
    I would (and have) bought used carbon wheels over new aluminum. My easton Haven carbons have seen four years of weekly PNW&BC use and are going strong and true as new. The chinese carbon rims are a solid option at this point.

    great looking bike amish_matt!

  19. #2119
    Hard funkin´ Kraut
    Reputation: NoStyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    865
    @ happymedium:

    - I would suggest medium size and play with stem-length.

    - Go with a 150/160mm travel 650B compatible Fork. If there´s a tighter budget a Manitou Mattoc instead of Pike or Fox 36 could be a pretty good option.

    - I would personally go with 650B from the start = new wheel-set.

    - Regardless of keeping 26 or 650B in the future: If I were you I would go with the short (=26) 142x12 dropouts. 135x10 QR is a dying standard. When switching to 650B in the future tires up to 2.3 do fit in the shorter dropouts without issues. Only bigger-volume-tires require the 142x12 650B dropouts!

  20. #2120
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    31
    Thanks zuuds. I will check out your recommendations. I'm quite surprised if the new Fox 36 will turn out to be a similar price I can get a Pike for (shipped to Canada), but I will check for sure!

    My hub is 135 x 10 solid rear axle King with fun bolts, so I figure this is similar stiffness as the 142. I didn't think the extra axle length improves much, but I really don't know. For sure for 150 with wider hub flanges, and less/no dish that should be stiffer and stronger for sure.

    I guess if I'm going to keep the bike as long as I did my last one, I should try to go 650B up front...

  21. #2121
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    31
    Sorry I guess I missed all of the other comments. I will have to learn how to navigate these forums better... Thanks to all with your suggestions.

    I didn't realize that going with a 650B fork is the way to go for me regardless of staying with 26 wheels or going 650B. It's a clear decision on the 650B fork, Thanks!

    On the dropouts, I like the idea of using the 26" dropouts too, whether using 26 or 650B, as I would use 2.3 tire max, so I assume I can fit based on what most folks have said. Great point.

    I was thinking also LB carbon rims since i like to build my own wheels up and they have some pretty wide versions at pretty reasonable weight and price. I think my aluminum Supra D's are 12 years old without any damage from rocks. Last season I rode about 14 psi on 2.3 tires so I figure if I didn't ding up the rims at that PSI (which is a bit low for rock gardens I know) maybe I can get away with the carbon ones. The Chinese carbon rims look more mature now with hookless beads and I think they've made some iterations of refinements so they should be reasonably good now. I'll have to look at the wheels more closely. I was hoping to keep my King rear hub since I got used to the very quick engagement (ex-trials rider) and don't want to give that up, even on a trailbike... I figured I would find some peer-pressure here to go 650B wheels now (budget be damned).

    For the frame size, I assume medium for me at 5-9 is best but wondered if a large was within possibility with a shorter stem. I just measured my old medium Enduro frame reach as I have it built, and to my surprise it's not much shorter than the Spit V2 Medium: 420mm Enduro vs 427mm Spitfire. My current cockpit just seemed short and I had to use a longer stem than I liked to get my weight forward for cornering. I tend to think NoStyle is right that medium is the one and just figure out what stem length. Now that I think of it, I started using a wider bar (for me wider anyway) last season at 750mm so that will reduce the need for extra reach a bit.

    I'd still like to sit on them both, or at least one of them to get a little more confident. It may be a challenge to find someone around Calgary with one. Maybe easier if I get out to Kelowna to find someone with one.

  22. #2122
    smartass
    Reputation: amish_matt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    569
    In my experience, Supra D's are made out of butter, so if your not denting them, you should be completely fine on carbon.

    Can you swap end caps on your King hub to convert it from 135x10 to 142x12?

  23. #2123
    Mr. Knowitall
    Reputation: hssp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    852
    You need to change axles to convert King to 142x12.

  24. #2124
    Hard funkin´ Kraut
    Reputation: NoStyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    865
    Quote Originally Posted by happymedium View Post
    I didn't realize that going with a 650B fork is the way to go for me regardless of staying with 26 wheels or going 650B. It's a clear decision on the 650B fork, Thanks!
    With a 650B compatible fork you´re just safe for future decisions towards wheel-size. A 150mm 650B fork has mostly the same a-to-c height as a 160mm 26", for example. Questionable if someone miss 10mm travel up front ...

    Quote Originally Posted by happymedium View Post
    On the dropouts, I like the idea of using the 26" dropouts too, whether using 26 or 650B, as I would use 2.3 tire max, so I assume I can fit based on what most folks have said. Great point.
    Please keep in mind that bigger than 2.3 650B volume tires do need the 650B dropouts, which are same 142x12 like the 26-ones, only 10mm longer. Something to think about according rear hub spacing/standard. A new set of dropouts would be cheaper than a new rear hub ...

    Quote Originally Posted by happymedium View Post
    For the frame size, I assume medium for me at 5-9 is best but wondered if a large was within possibility with a shorter stem. I just measured my old medium Enduro frame reach as I have it built, and to my surprise it's not much shorter than the Spit V2 Medium: 420mm Enduro vs 427mm Spitfire. My current cockpit just seemed short and I had to use a longer stem than I liked to get my weight forward for cornering. I tend to think NoStyle is right that medium is the one and just figure out what stem length. Now that I think of it, I started using a wider bar (for me wider anyway) last season at 750mm so that will reduce the need for extra reach a bit.

    I'd still like to sit on them both, or at least one of them to get a little more confident. It may be a challenge to find someone around Calgary with one. Maybe easier if I get out to Kelowna to find someone with one.
    If possible demo both sizes medium and large! I´m 180cm tall with 85cm inseam and switched from medium to large, with 35/40mm stem and 790mm bar. At your height I think medium, stem-length around 40/50mm and 780mm bar should be perfect for you ... the large is around 25mm longer in reach, top-tube and wheel-base - which can be "too long/big" ...

  25. #2125
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    13

    Here's mine :)

    Here's mine. Been so busy riding this awesome bike, totally forgot to brag about it


    2013 Spitfire-cimg7033.jpg

    2013 Spitfire-1718506-k1czywqx2pcq-cimg7069-medium.jpg

    Initial setup rides at the local park earlier in october

    2013 Spitfire-1728947-80eevspkxmuu-cimg7256-medium.jpg

    2013 Spitfire-1728949-f8nh3gsyasls-cimg7376-medium.jpg

    2013 Spitfire-1728950-i0iyrd9ufwds-cimg7406-medium.jpg

    Spitty's happy now shredding the home trails

    2013 Spitfire-cimg7820.jpg

    Now waiting for the Darkside to replace my TR250 in spring

  26. #2126
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    36
    2.35 Hans Damph on a 28mm wide rim will fit fine in the 26 drop outs, but i would not go any bigger.

    There are pics in my profile that keep getting flipped upside down when I try to post thme here.

  27. #2127
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3
    Ok, silly question time. Old bike - Commie Meta SX. 160mm travel. Shock is 200 x 57mm Fox RP2 BV Push'd. Can I just transfer to Spittie? Eye to eye and looks same? Am gonna get it re-Push'd for Spitfire. Will they be able to adjust stroke length for 140mm travel?

  28. #2128
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    78
    Your eye-to-eye and stroke is correct. I would definitly try it before you have it pushed again. I dont know how much of the compression modification is depending on the linkage curve or how different those are between the bikes.

  29. #2129
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    188
    Yes you can, but that shock is a complete sack of ****, unworthy of the spitfire

  30. #2130
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    428
    One of the best looking Spitfires I've seen!

    Quote Originally Posted by Hagen3000 View Post
    Here's mine. Been so busy riding this awesome bike, totally forgot to brag about it


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	CIMG7033.jpg 
Views:	321 
Size:	323.1 KB 
ID:	948524

  31. #2131
    Hard funkin´ Kraut
    Reputation: NoStyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    865
    Quote Originally Posted by Hagen3000 View Post
    Here's mine. Been so busy riding this awesome bike, totally forgot to brag about it


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1718506-k1czywqx2pcq-cimg7069-medium.jpg 
Views:	328 
Size:	181.4 KB 
ID:	948528

    Initial setup rides at the local park earlier in october

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1728947-80eevspkxmuu-cimg7256-medium.jpg 
Views:	201 
Size:	170.4 KB 
ID:	948532

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1728949-f8nh3gsyasls-cimg7376-medium.jpg 
Views:	182 
Size:	158.8 KB 
ID:	948535

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1728950-i0iyrd9ufwds-cimg7406-medium.jpg 
Views:	184 
Size:	153.2 KB 
ID:	948536
    Hi Hagen, great to see your awesome Spitfire here!

    Where in Germany is this Park? Is it an official Track or a hidden one build by/for locals only?

  32. #2132
    Big Test Icycles
    Reputation: Hangtime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,436

    2013 Spitfire

    Quote Originally Posted by Willyswildride View Post
    2.35 Hans Damph on a 28mm wide rim will fit fine in the 26 drop outs, but i would not go any bigger.
    This is good news.

  33. #2133
    Hard funkin´ Kraut
    Reputation: NoStyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    865
    Quote Originally Posted by Willyswildride View Post
    2.35 Hans Damph on a 28mm wide rim will fit fine in the 26 drop outs, but i would not go any bigger.
    Running 650B 2.25 HansDampf on WTB´s i23 in the 26 dropouts and clearance is fine, but would not go bigger than 2.3.

    @Hangtime: The CS-length and therefor clearance varies depending on the flipchip-setting ... !

  34. #2134
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Hi Hagen, great to see your awesome Spitfire here!

    Where in Germany is this Park? Is it an official Track or a hidden one build by/for locals only?
    cheers, those 3 pics are from Bikepark Beerfelden

  35. #2135
    Big Test Icycles
    Reputation: Hangtime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,436

    2013 Spitfire

    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post

    @Hangtime: The CS-length and therefor clearance varies depending on the flipchip-setting ... !
    Gotcha, I'm currently on a Firebird with 17.25" CS. I'd like something a little shorter. The Spitfire seems to be able to fit the bill as I'm running smaller tires in the back anyway. I don't go over a 2.3, currently running a Neo Moto 2.3 and find its big enough with a 2.35 HD up front.

  36. #2136
    Hard funkin´ Kraut
    Reputation: NoStyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    865
    Quote Originally Posted by Hangtime View Post
    Gotcha, I'm currently on a Firebird with 17.25" CS. I'd like something a little shorter. The Spitfire seems to be able to fit the bill as I'm running smaller tires in the back anyway. I don't go over a 2.3, currently running a Neo Moto 2.3 and find its big enough with a 2.35 HD up front.
    Then you should have enough clearance in every flipchip-setting with the 26 dropouts.

  37. #2137
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NCBigHit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    426

    2013 Spitfire

    Time to swap out my bearings (probably past time TBH). The thing bugging me is that there is some frame material on the inside of the seat of each bearing that makes it impossible to put pressure on the outer bearing race. I'm afraid if I press only on the inner race I'll end up breaking the bearing and leaving the outer race stuck in place which is a PITA. anyone done this job? Planning the old socket/bolt/washer/nut approach. Never done it before though. Any advice? Thanks all.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  38. #2138
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    396
    Good question Ncbighit. I wanted to replace the bearings on my Rune but don't own a bearing puller. Love to see a pic of a homemade one.

    Thank you,

    Chris

  39. #2139
    mtbr member
    Reputation: qbert2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,226
    Quote Originally Posted by NCBigHit View Post
    Time to swap out my bearings (probably past time TBH). The thing bugging me is that there is some frame material on the inside of the seat of each bearing that makes it impossible to put pressure on the outer bearing race. I'm afraid if I press only on the inner race I'll end up breaking the bearing and leaving the outer race stuck in place which is a PITA. anyone done this job? Planning the old socket/bolt/washer/nut approach. Never done it before though. Any advice? Thanks all.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    you shouldn't have any problem. i've changed mine with no issues. socket and bolts work great.

  40. #2140
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    78
    I used these tools when I did my Spitfire RapidRaceProducts ENDUROGUARD NeoGuard Bearing Press & Extraction Tool PuntureGuard

    The main pivot by the BB was a little tricky since the reciving cup wont stay flush against the frame, but it worked.

  41. #2141
    Hard funkin´ Kraut
    Reputation: NoStyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    865
    Quote Originally Posted by Hagen3000 View Post
    cheers, those 3 pics are from Bikepark Beerfelden
    Thank you!
    I want to do some more park-riding this year and Beerfelden looks like it´s worth a visit.

  42. #2142
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NCBigHit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    426
    Thanks guys, will give it a go when my bearings arrive. Also sent an inquiry to rapid race products distributor for the US. Looks like nice stuff, probably pricy though.

  43. #2143
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    148
    How long have people gone before needing to change bearings? I'm probably averaging 8 hrs a week ride time.
    Mrwhlr's stepmom rides a 5 spot

  44. #2144
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    78
    Quote Originally Posted by NCBigHit View Post
    Thanks guys, will give it a go when my bearings arrive. Also sent an inquiry to rapid race products distributor for the US. Looks like nice stuff, probably pricy though.
    You can skip the main kit and instead go with bolts and nuts to save some money. It is just the adaptorkits that are tricky to exchange for something else. I was however to lazy and just shelled out for everything.

    EnduroBro: If you ride in wet conditions I think all bearings goes quite fast on the bike. You can dismantle the linkage and feel how the bearings rotate. It is a very good idea as maintanace to regrease them and rotate them.

  45. #2145
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NCBigHit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    426
    I made it 18 months on mine and while none are seized or anything, some are definitely gritty. With the shock out things moved pretty freely though--not sure what effect it was really having. Also worth knowing that I don't regularly ride super wet conditions and with a new kiddo my ride time is sadly reduced.

  46. #2146
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    29
    Anyone had any v2 frame issues, seems to be a bit of bashing going on at Bikeradar...??

    BikeRadar.com ? View topic - 26" - 650b conversion

    I know mines has been excellent, no issues....

  47. #2147
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    188
    Bikeradar is full of middle aged retards (I'm near middle aged, no a retard though ) who panic about tyre pressure decisions.

    I would discard anything discussed on their forums

  48. #2148
    Hard funkin´ Kraut
    Reputation: NoStyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    865
    Quote Originally Posted by m1tch666 View Post
    Anyone had any v2 frame issues, seems to be a bit of bashing going on at Bikeradar...??

    BikeRadar.com ? View topic - 26" - 650b conversion

    I know mines has been excellent, no issues....
    Both my Spitfire V2 frames have had excellent manufacturing-quality. But we all know that Banshee is famous for their "crooked" frames ...
    Just forget about someone who´s friend has issues with his frame ... if there were any serious issues you bet you can find them here, next to Banshee dealing with it ...

  49. #2149
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    78
    Serveral welds cracked on my V2 Spitfire and I had to wait over three months untill Banshee got me my warranty replacement frame. Does that qualify as an issue?

  50. #2150
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    36
    I have dealt with many bike and component manufacturers over the last 25 years (30 if I go back to my BMX days) and as disappointing frustrating as a broken or misbuilt frame is, especially during riding season, 3 months is actualy a fairly reasonable wait time.

    The important thing is that they honored thier warranty.
    Last edited by Willyswildride; 01-05-2015 at 11:50 AM. Reason: Sp

  51. #2151
    Braaap
    Reputation: DirtMerchantBicycles's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    417
    There is one post on that thread that mentions a "friend of mine" had issues...let's not pollute the forums with this.
    Dirt Merchant Bicycles
    Providing unrivaled support and unbeatable pricing on all cycling goods to riders near and far.

  52. #2152
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    78
    Quote Originally Posted by DirtMerchantBicycles View Post
    There is one post on that thread that mentions a "friend of mine" had issues...let's not pollute the forums with this.
    This is my frame, BB AND headtube. I have still not been compensated for not having a bike this fall.

    2013 Spitfire-bild-2.jpg2013 Spitfire-bild-3.jpg

  53. #2153
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by Dystopism View Post
    This is my frame, BB AND headtube. I have still not been compensated for not having a bike this fall.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	bild 2.jpg 
Views:	200 
Size:	78.2 KB 
ID:	953011Click image for larger version. 

Name:	bild 3.jpg 
Views:	208 
Size:	104.9 KB 
ID:	953012
    One question: How????

  54. #2154
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    78
    I dont know. Im farily light, about 70 kg and a beginner. I´m however not that carefull and crash quite a bit. I have also done hard riding on the bike, like shuttling in Sierra Nevada, the Alps and enduro racing on the bike. The Spitfire has been an awesome ride and Pacific Cycles seem to know how to build good bikes, so my guess is that I got (a rare) lemon. It however does not make of for Banshees poor serivce, and there is quite a few other nice bikes now days. I dont think my next bike will be a Banshee.

  55. #2155
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    428
    Quote Originally Posted by Ucio View Post
    One question: How????
    Not answering for the owner of that bike, but bike frames break, way more often than documented on the internets. Bad welds, too much stress, abuse, whatever. All the aluminum FS frames I've owned broke one way or the other, never crash induced. 4 different brands, 4 different bikes, for some of us it's pretty common and I for one often go over all the welds as a result.

  56. #2156
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    213
    I'll play. I'll start off saying I love riding this thing, it's an absolute blast. This is my bike, not a friends buddies or whatever. Issues started around June 2014, noticed a slight amount of play/ clunk when picking the rear of the bike up. I was out of town for work with the bike and it appeared to me that it was in the shock bushings. Rode maybe 30 miles that week, got significantly worse. Brought it home and went over it with a buddy, found that the play was coming from the upper pivot at the front triangle side. (Note-- I had just recently converted it to 1x and had pulled and locktited all the pivot bolts chasing a creak, there was no slop at that point). Tightened pivot, (by hand) and play was gone. Got it home, pulled and locktited 4mm lockscrew and torqued to 5nM. Rode bike a few weeks and it was tight, then the play came back. Checked torque on pivot, ok. Ordered new shock bushings, and picked up new bearings local. Shock bushings went easy. The upper pivot axle (bolt) took me an hour to get out and get the link separated from the frame. Nightmare. So I separated the frame and link and found this........................


    This is on the drive side. The other side looks normal and new. I emailed and have been in contact with Banshee, and they said they've never seen that and it must have been ridden loose. Personally, I think it came "loose" because the aluminum wore away. The hole in the frame is oblonged also. I'd have to think that riding it loose would have caused wear on both sides. Banshee has said they will not warranty it, and said sorry for my "inconvenience", which just pisses me off to end. I had then emailed them about crash replacement pricing on December 10th. As of January 5th I still had no response, so I emailed again and now got a response, but still no numbers.

    It took me a year and a half to give up on my 14 year old trek and buy a serious bike. Now this one is one year old and ****ed up. Not happy in the least.
    14 Banshee Spitfire 27.5

    15 Transition TA29

  57. #2157
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    188
    Sh!t happens dude. Sorry it happened to you, but it's hardly a pervasive issue with the Spitty.

  58. #2158
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    41
    It seams to me you have similar issues I had on my Spitty. I've noticed some play and clunking noise in mid season and pinpoint it to the pivot points as you did. One pivot bolt took some taping to get it out when I disasembled them, but when i cleaned, greased and tightened everything was fine again. Then in month or two there was this play again and I just rinsed and repeat. Now had no problem since. Don't know what the problem is, maybe some small dierences between pivot bolt lenght and link, frame material width. I don't know, but for me the problem is gone.... for now

  59. #2159
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    213
    Quote Originally Posted by kinserk View Post
    It seams to me you have similar issues I had on my Spitty. I've noticed some play and clunking noise in mid season and pinpoint it to the pivot points as you did. One pivot bolt took some taping to get it out when I disasembled them, but when i cleaned, greased and tightened everything was fine again. Then in month or two there was this play again and I just rinsed and repeat. Now had no problem since. Don't know what the problem is, maybe some small dierences between pivot bolt lenght and link, frame material width. I don't know, but for me the problem is gone.... for now
    Currently, since I reassembled it, the play has not returned. But I know its not right regardless.
    14 Banshee Spitfire 27.5

    15 Transition TA29

  60. #2160

  61. #2161
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    78
    Nice decals! Custom made?

  62. #2162
    Braaap
    Reputation: DirtMerchantBicycles's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    417


    Looks great! Who made the decals?
    Dirt Merchant Bicycles
    Providing unrivaled support and unbeatable pricing on all cycling goods to riders near and far.

  63. #2163
    ev.
    ev. is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    7
    Can anyone comment on how a DHX 5.0 Air is likely to perform against the standard float CTD?
    Finding the float blows through the travel a bit quickly, and could use something with a piggyback for my heavy ass...

  64. #2164
    Sov
    Sov is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    153
    Quote Originally Posted by ferguson65 View Post
    ... The upper pivot axle (bolt) took me an hour to get out and get the link separated from the frame. Nightmare. So I separated the frame and link and found this........................


    This is on the drive side. The other side looks normal and new. I emailed and have been in contact with Banshee, and they said they've never seen that and it must have been ridden loose. Personally, I think it came "loose" because the aluminum wore away. The hole in the frame is oblonged also...
    Was the pivot shaft a loose fit in the frame? (but tight in the bearings, hence the difficulty you had in pushing it out). If the hole is ovalised as you say, then you might be getting radial slop between the pivot shaft and frame. Loctite makes a product called bearing retaining compound (609) just for this purpose. You can use it to effectively glue your pivot shaft into the frame.

    Ironhorse Sundays had a similar problem with play between pivot shafts and links, and the 609 worked well in fixing it on my Sunday. I also used it with good results in a sloppy bearing bore on a Turner DHR.

  65. #2165
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtrider76's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,888
    Quote Originally Posted by ev. View Post
    Can anyone comment on how a DHX 5.0 Air is likely to perform against the standard float CTD?
    Finding the float blows through the travel a bit quickly, and could use something with a piggyback for my heavy ass...
    I have a Rune but I pulled my CTD for warranty work and put on a DHX5.0 off my old bike. The DHX had better bottom out control over my untuned CTD. After I got my CTD back I started messing with volume spacers and got it feeling good by adding a volume spacer.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb

  66. #2166
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    41
    Hey guys, loving my Spitty and upgraded it quite a bit since I built up originally so thinking that I'd like to get some carbon wheels so does anyone run 650b Light Bicycle rims on their Spitty?

    If so what width of rim are people running, while still being able to fit say a Maxxis HR2 in 2.35 or Conti TK in 2.3?

  67. #2167
    smartass
    Reputation: amish_matt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    569
    I have the LB 35mm 650b rims on my Spitfire, they're awesome. I've run 2.4" Ardents in the 650b drops, and now 2.3" DHR2s in the 26" dropouts. The latter doesn't have a ton of clearance, but I've ridden in a lot of mud and it's never been a problem. I prefer the DHR2 as it has way better side knobs, and the Ardent 2.4 was just too big for what I like in a tire.

    Pics, one of the Ardents, the other of the DHR2s:

    2013 Spitfire-image.jpg

    2013 Spitfire-image.jpg

    Not the best pics of the tires, but it's all I have.

  68. #2168
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    58
    Cool pic....what os that structure? Tomb?

  69. #2169
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    31
    With wider rims I think you're more likely to run into issues with tyre shape than clearance. If you square off the tyre too much it'll roll slower and be more difficult to tip into turns. Interesting photo of HR2 2.3 on a wide carbon rim vs narrower on a new pink bike rim review.

  70. #2170
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    you shouldn't have any problem. i've changed mine with no issues. socket and bolts work great.
    I've used the superstar components bearing puller (costs 17 pounds for 1 size of bearings) and worked great, the change took just a few minutes. Pulling the bearings by inner races was no problem.

  71. #2171
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    61
    Hi, I was just wondering and there’s a lot of guys on here more knowledgeable than me:

    Im thinking of going to 27.5 but (a) I like short chainstays and (b) I run 2.25/2.3 tyres in the rear for better rolling so I fancy keeping the 26 dropouts (plus I like to save the £100 cost of new dropouts).
    There’s enough guys on here that run 27.5 wheels in 26 dropouts apparently without any penalty apart from mud clearance. If its as easy as that though why isn’t every 26 frame able to do the same? Is it cos the Spitfire has a low BB anyway so the geometry isn’t too messed up? How come its apparently possible with the Spitty?
    Also, it seems weird that if we presume the next iteration of the Spitty will be 27.5 then presumably it’ll have shorter chainstays (which would mean the 26 dropout option will disappear) which is getting towards the current position with 27.5 wheels in 26 dropouts?

    So if im converting to 27.5 when my current fork and wheels die, my Lyrik is likely to go before my wheels. Therefore I’d like to buy a 27.5 fork and run it in 150mm before going up to 160mm when I get the 27.5 wheels ( I refuse to say ‘upgrade’ #26er4lyfe)

    What forks allow this adjustment? I’d be looking to get Pikes or Mattocs or Zocchi 350’s

    cheers

  72. #2172
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    31
    The Spitfire has a very low BB on 26" and adjustable geometry - plus absolutely tons of tyre clearance. I'd try 27.5 with your current dropouts.

    There is room to move the BB down and back a bit without changing the rest of the frame so a new version could have shorter chainstays and a lower BB (but greater stack and reach and steeper seat tube angle). I'm not convinced that shorter stays are better though, I think 439mm works very well on a bike as long and slack as the Spitfire. I don't want a lower BB either, 27.5 and neutral dropouts is low enough for rides that involve pedalling.

  73. #2173
    Hard funkin´ Kraut
    Reputation: NoStyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    865
    Quote Originally Posted by fingerbanger View Post
    Hi, I was just wondering and there’s a lot of guys on here more knowledgeable than me:

    Im thinking of going to 27.5 but (a) I like short chainstays and (b) I run 2.25/2.3 tyres in the rear for better rolling so I fancy keeping the 26 dropouts (plus I like to save the £100 cost of new dropouts).
    There’s enough guys on here that run 27.5 wheels in 26 dropouts apparently without any penalty apart from mud clearance. If its as easy as that though why isn’t every 26 frame able to do the same? Is it cos the Spitfire has a low BB anyway so the geometry isn’t too messed up? How come its apparently possible with the Spitty?
    Also, it seems weird that if we presume the next iteration of the Spitty will be 27.5 then presumably it’ll have shorter chainstays (which would mean the 26 dropout option will disappear) which is getting towards the current position with 27.5 wheels in 26 dropouts?

    So if im converting to 27.5 when my current fork and wheels die, my Lyrik is likely to go before my wheels. Therefore I’d like to buy a 27.5 fork and run it in 150mm before going up to 160mm when I get the 27.5 wheels ( I refuse to say ‘upgrade’ #26er4lyfe)

    What forks allow this adjustment? I’d be looking to get Pikes or Mattocs or Zocchi 350’s

    cheers
    Like threehats has mentioned already:
    - The Spitfire has a super low bb with 26 wheels, so with 650B´s you´ll get the average bb-heigth of the all new hyped long, low and slack 160mm Enduros. I have a roughly 345mm bb in the neutral setting and could go lower to 340mm, all with 2,25 650B HansDampf/2.3 650B HighRoller II in the 26 dropouts. No, I don´t want the bb to be as low as with 26ers (330mm) - doesn´t work well for me in mixed natural terrain.
    - The Spitfire has massive tire-clearance, much more than many competitors, due to it´s rear-triangle-design and adjustable dropouts. This is why you can run 2.3 650B tires in the 26 dropouts without issues. And this is why some others can´t get converted to 650B without more serious compromise ...

    As sidenote: If you like you can run 26+ tires, or B+ in the 650B dropouts, up to 70mm wide ...

    So if you want to stick with 650B 2.25/2.3 tires you can keep the 26 dropouts and still enjoy the short chain-stays.

    Well, maybe that could be the Spitfire´s next iteration: 650B "only", with revised geometry = lower bb and still shortish chain-stays ...

    Can´t comment on the fork-topic, as I have no experience with Mattoc or MZ 350. Only thing I can say is that 150mm well dialed travel should be enough. As far as I know Pike and Mattoc allow internal travel-adjustment in 10mm steps ...

  74. #2174
    smartass
    Reputation: amish_matt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    569
    Quote Originally Posted by cburden View Post
    Cool pic....what os that structure? Tomb?
    There was some signage that said it was essentially an old wine cellar. Not sure what other buildings may have been in the area along with it at the time.

    fingerbanger: The Mattoc allows for 10mm internal travel adjustments. The Pike is adjustable by swapping the air spring, which is more involved (and requires buying a new air spring).

  75. #2175
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Like threehats has mentioned already:
    - The Spitfire has a super low bb with 26 wheels, so with 650B´s you´ll get the average bb-heigth of the all new hyped long, low and slack 160mm Enduros. I have a roughly 345mm bb in the neutral setting and could go lower to 340mm, all with 2,25 650B HansDampf/2.3 650B HighRoller II in the 26 dropouts. No, I don´t want the bb to be as low as with 26ers (330mm) - doesn´t work well for me in mixed natural terrain.
    - The Spitfire has massive tire-clearance, much more than many competitors, due to it´s rear-triangle-design and adjustable dropouts. This is why you can run 2.3 650B tires in the 26 dropouts without issues. And this is why some others can´t get converted to 650B without more serious compromise ...

    As sidenote: If you like you can run 26+ tires, or B+ in the 650B dropouts, up to 70mm wide ...

    So if you want to stick with 650B 2.25/2.3 tires you can keep the 26 dropouts and still enjoy the short chain-stays.

    Well, maybe that could be the Spitfire´s next iteration: 650B "only", with revised geometry = lower bb and still shortish chain-stays ...

    Can´t comment on the fork-topic, as I have no experience with Mattoc or MZ 350. Only thing I can say is that 150mm well dialed travel should be enough. As far as I know Pike and Mattoc allow internal travel-adjustment in 10mm steps ...
    Super low bb?
    Youre comparing to 27.5 bikes?
    My 26" 2015 banshee's bb is higher than my 26" trek fuel ex and ellsworth 2.0.

  76. #2176
    Hard funkin´ Kraut
    Reputation: NoStyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    865
    Quote Originally Posted by camelunderwear View Post
    Super low bb?
    Youre comparing to 27.5 bikes?
    My 26" 2015 banshee's bb is higher than my 26" trek fuel ex and ellsworth 2.0.
    No, I was referring to 26 wheels!
    The Spitfire is initially designed for 26 and given the fact that it has 140mm travel and takes forks with 150/160mm travel then a 330mm bb is very low in my opinion.

    Of course this changes when going 650B, which is an option(!) without throwing off the geometry too much. Regardless of the wheel-size there´s still a bb-drop in the neutral and slack setting. Therefor my considerations if Banshee will ever revise the Spitfire for 650B-only = lower bb again and still shortish chain-stays!

    I don´t know about the Trek and Ellsworth, but if these have less fork- and rear-travel than the bb might be slightly lower, like some others in the 120/130mm trailbike-range with26/650B wheels ... ?!?

  77. #2177
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    21
    I have a question about base tune for CC Inline, what is your experience with this recommendation? Anyone use 2 large spacers?
    Last edited by Ucio; 01-24-2015 at 11:30 AM.

  78. #2178
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    29
    Yep, 2 large spacers here - without them I was blowing through the travel just gently pedalling over bumpy stuff. But then I am about 90kg kitted up.

    As for the base tune, think I'm on a couple of clicks more LSC/LSR, and about an extra turn on HSC/HSR.

  79. #2179
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    3
    New frame for a new year.

    2013 Spitfire-spitty.jpg

  80. #2180
    Hard funkin´ Kraut
    Reputation: NoStyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    865
    I think I saw this picture already elsewhere ...
    Very nice Spitfire and welcome on board!

  81. #2181
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    31

  82. #2182
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    20
    My 2015 Raw Spitty



  83. #2183
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    215

    2013 Spitfire

    Nice one ! What's about the CC Inline ? Can you compare to another shock or did you only ride the Spit with the Inline ?


    Sam

  84. #2184
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    20
    Only had the bike for 10 days Sam and I ordered it with the inline. Rides very nice. Climbs well with a little bit noticeable bobbing, but flick the climb switch and it eliminates it. Super plush downhill, and loads of traction on techy climbs. Have set it up with the base settings Banshee recommend. Only had a few rides on it so far but really impressed.

  85. #2185
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    71
    Samos, i ran my spitfire for a few months with an X-Fusion 02 shock. I actually really liked it. If i was mainly doing xc stuff all the time i doubt i would have changed to an inline. But i like mountains. Both going up and coming down so i changed the shock out and i absolutely love it. I was not initially convinced that having so much adjustability was a good thing. In my mind it was more for me to Fu@k up.
    But after fitting the shock and having a lot of patience and following the set up leaflet that cane creek provided. After about 3 rides i got it dialled in and my spitfire is running buttery smooth.

    You need to take your time with the set up, don't rush it.

  86. #2186
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    215

    2013 Spitfire

    Thanks dude. I got a Spit with a Double Barrel. I barely need to change. The only benefit could be the weight and CS Switch (frame and shock are 2013's). I leave very near the Alps in Switzerland.... I'm looking now to change for a 1x drivetrain. But as you can imagine, the big interrogation is "will I be able to ride it in the mountains?"


    Sam

  87. #2187
    Hard funkin´ Kraut
    Reputation: NoStyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    865
    @Parky1: Nice Spitfire!

  88. #2188
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 21XC12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    25
    My new Trailbike ...


  89. #2189
    Hard funkin´ Kraut
    Reputation: NoStyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    865
    Black Beauty!

  90. #2190
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 21XC12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    25
    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Black Beauty!
    Thank you! Here is a better picture with new tires. Now it's finished.


  91. #2191
    Hard funkin´ Kraut
    Reputation: NoStyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    865
    Yes, saw it already on mtb-news.de

  92. #2192
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    115

    2013 Spitfire

    Just finished building it up. I stripped off the painted emblems, too much white for me. Plus, I like the look of the 2014's with the black emblems. Don't know how much it weighs yet. I've only ridden it once on the street, but it feels like it pedals really well. Can't wait for the trails to dry out so I can take it off road.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Spitfire-photo-1.jpg  

    2013 Spitfire-photo-3.jpg  


  93. #2193
    nmb
    nmb is offline
    nuno borralho
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    77
    your spit looks hot!

    please tell me the best way to remove the white emblems.

  94. #2194
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    115
    Hey Thanks!

    To remove the emblems I sprayed them with Klean Strip Aircraft Paint Remover. I sprayed them and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then scraped and wiped them off. The paint on the frame is anodized so it's very strong and won't come off with the stripper.

    I left the one on the head tube on because I can't find a large size emblem like the one that's on there.

  95. #2195
    nmb
    nmb is offline
    nuno borralho
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by Sachem6 View Post
    Hey Thanks!

    To remove the emblems I sprayed them with Klean Strip Aircraft Paint Remover. I sprayed them and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then scraped and wiped them off. The paint on the frame is anodized so it's very strong and won't come off with the stripper.

    I left the one on the head tube on because I can't find a large size emblem like the one that's on there.

    thank you. I want to do on mine. I went from the spit V1 and the white was only brand and model. don't like all the white stripes. gonna make them disappear

    I'm also keeping the head tube emblem and seat tube. on the V1 head emblem was a metal logo attached. looked great.

    love the new stealth 2015 frame.

    you should consider a stealth look fox also

  96. #2196
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    115
    I thought about that too, but I love the orange.

  97. #2197
    Braaap
    Reputation: DirtMerchantBicycles's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    417
    Quote Originally Posted by Sachem6 View Post
    Hey Thanks!

    To remove the emblems I sprayed them with Klean Strip Aircraft Paint Remover. I sprayed them and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then scraped and wiped them off. The paint on the frame is anodized so it's very strong and won't come off with the stripper.
    Good to know! No noticeable change in the ano?

    Great looking build!
    Dirt Merchant Bicycles
    Providing unrivaled support and unbeatable pricing on all cycling goods to riders near and far.

  98. #2198
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    115
    Hey thanks!
    Nope, nothing happened to the ano. If you look kinda hard at it you can see where the emblems were, but I kinda like that. I just wish I could get the right size emblem for the head tube in black. I bought a sticker pack, but the Banshee emblems are small. So, for now I'll leave the white head tube emblem on.

  99. #2199
    Big Test Icycles
    Reputation: Hangtime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,436
    Question, now that the industry has jumped into the 27.5 wheel size, what is the likelihood of Banshee going to a dedicated 27.5 platform for the Spitfire/Rune? I liked the idea of interchangeable dropouts but is it time to go full in with the 27.5 rear on these frames.

  100. #2200
    FM
    FM is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: FM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    9,373
    Quote Originally Posted by Hangtime View Post
    Question, now that the industry has jumped into the 27.5 wheel size, what is the likelihood of Banshee going to a dedicated 27.5 platform for the Spitfire/Rune? I liked the idea of interchangeable dropouts but is it time to go full in with the 27.5 rear on these frames.
    What would change?

    I did a ton of research on other bikes before getting my spitty on this- riding some buddies bikes too- the 27.5 spitty geometry rocks and it's right inline with the other dedicated 27.5" bikes I considered (i.e. knolly warden).

    I'm finding the 27.5" spitty geometry pretty awesome personally (with a 160mm fork, 35mm stem, 780mm bars, chips in slack setting).