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Thread: 2013 Spitfire

  1. #1901
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    Quote Originally Posted by fingerbanger View Post
    hi, here's a pic at an enduro race in UK recently. It was me that held me back not the Spitty.
    Ard Rock Enduro?

  2. #1902
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    Re: 2013 Spitfire

    Quote Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
    How tall are you though?
    177 cm

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    2013 Spitfire

    I got a great deal on a Manitou Mattoc. But as this is kind of a "the fork fall down from the truck", there are no travel spacer with it. And as Manitou isn't selling them separately, I would need to find the measurements to use something in place of.

  4. #1904
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    I've had great experiences with Manitou customer service when it came to my dorado. You might just try emailing them and asking whether you can purchase the spacer separately. They have consistently replied to my email within 15 minutes.

  5. #1905
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    Do any of you guys find the need to run a seat post with setback?
    I own a 2014 large spitfire with 175mm crank. My current post is a ks i950r (no setback).
    I transferred all the components from my previous bike (sc nomad).
    I think I am a bit forward while seated pedaling and it feels like I am not putting out as much power compared to my previous bike seated pedaling position. For sure the spitfire has a steeper seat angle, but I see most of the setups in here to have posts with no setback.

  6. #1906
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    Maybe personal preference, but why do you want a setback-post?
    From my personal experience one point of the great Spitfire-Geometry is the steep SA with longer reach. To me it feels much more natural to put the power on the pedals than with a slacker SA or setback-post ...

  7. #1907
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    Agree with NoStyle on this (187cm long torso but short arms on a large with 50mm stem). How tall are you and what size frame do you have?

  8. #1908
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    2013 Spitfire

    Thanks, I'll try. But as I leave in Switzerland, could be quite difficult. Another idea?

  9. #1909
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    2013 Spitfire

    Quote Originally Posted by NCBigHit View Post
    I've had great experiences with Manitou customer service when it came to my dorado. You might just try emailing them and asking whether you can purchase the spacer separately. They have consistently replied to my email within 15 minutes.
    Quote Originally Posted by Samos View Post
    I got a great deal on a Manitou Mattoc. But as this is kind of a "the fork fall down from the truck", there are no travel spacer with it. And as Manitou isn't selling them separately, I would need to find the measurements to use something in place of.
    Quote Originally Posted by Samos View Post
    Thanks, I'll try. But as I leave in Switzerland, could be quite difficult. Another idea?
    Thanks, I'll try. But as I leave in Switzerland, could be quite difficult.

  10. #1910
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    @nostyle and ncbighit
    I am 1.83 with an inseam of 86cm. I ride a large.
    I don't want a setback, I think I need a setback. I have the idea that I am not producing as much power compared to my previous bike setup.
    At the moment my saddle is all the way backwards. Maybe it's just the different feeling from my previous bike.
    This is why I am asking if someone has the same feeling or has experienced something similar.

  11. #1911
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    Hmmm. Seems like you're on a reasonable size assuming your stem is a normal length. I personally find the spitfire puts me in a very comfortable pedaling position. What was/were your previous bikes? Could it just be a change in where you are positioned relative to the BB compared to what you are used to?

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    My bike fitter told me he wanted me on a setback seatpost as well. I'm 5'10" on a large frame. I rode with the new Renthal 40mm rise bar yesterday and I felt better but I'm still sitting off the back of my seat a little.

  13. #1913
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    Quote Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
    My bike fitter told me he wanted me on a setback seatpost as well. I'm 5'10" on a large frame. I rode with the new Renthal 40mm rise bar yesterday and I felt better but I'm still sitting off the back of my seat a little.
    Unless you have a long torso I don't see how a large at 5'10" would be cramped. I'm 6' on a large and no issues.

  14. #1914
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    Re: 2013 Spitfire

    Quote Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
    My bike fitter told me he wanted me on a setback seatpost as well. I'm 5'10" on a large frame. I rode with the new Renthal 40mm rise bar yesterday and I felt better but I'm still sitting off the back of my seat a little.
    Bike fitter?
    Really hoping its not a Roadbiker /ready focussed store helping you out.

  15. #1915
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    My previous bike was a sc nomad. My stem is 50mm.
    I think the stem length or torso length have nothing to do with what I am experiencing.
    Its the angle of your thigh with your knee/shin that makes the difference in seated pedaling. You all know the method "bring the pedals round until they’re in a horizontal position (three and nine o’clock). With the balls of your feet on the pedals, the knee of your front leg should be directly above the pedal". This comes from road cycling but it makes sense on seated pedaling.
    What I am experiencing is my knee is a bit forward of the pedal. Not much but enough to think my power output is not the optimum.

  16. #1916
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    Please explain, I am already running a 90mm stem and was hoping to keep it down around 60 or 70.

  17. #1917
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    Quote Originally Posted by ferguson65 View Post
    I just measured mine, and from center of head tube to center of seat tube, following the top tube, and it came out right at 23 3/8".
    Thanks, wonder if I should have gone with a large? Maybe hssp can explain his comment and help me get a better set up.

  18. #1918
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    For anyone in the UK I've just posted my Spitty up for sale on eBay, I'm selling with a Pike 27.5.

    Really sad to see this one go but its way too much bike for my requirements here. I'm dead jealous of you guys that have great trails on your doorstep and get to enjoy what the Spitty has to offer. Hope someone can get some thrills (and not too many spills!) out of this one.

  19. #1919
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    Sv: 2013 Spitfire

    Quote Originally Posted by kimbo123 View Post
    Thanks, wonder if I should have gone with a large? Maybe hssp can explain his comment and help me get a better set up.
    See what algain is writing below. You set the saddle relative to the BB and effective TT is highly dependent on the seat tube angle. Therefore stack and reach are better measures for how big a bike really is.
    Quote Originally Posted by algian View Post
    My previous bike was a sc nomad. My stem is 50mm.
    I think the stem length or torso length have nothing to do with what I am experiencing.
    Its the angle of your thigh with your knee/shin that makes the difference in seated pedaling. You all know the method "bring the pedals round until they’re in a horizontal position (three and nine o’clock). With the balls of your feet on the pedals, the knee of your front leg should be directly above the pedal". This comes from road cycling but it makes sense on seated pedaling.
    What I am experiencing is my knee is a bit forward of the pedal. Not much but enough to think my power output is not the optimum.

  20. #1920
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    image upload no limit

    Finally built up the spitty. Just transferred cockpit from my previous bike so color scheme is still way off.
    Maiden trail ride was great. Base tune on the db air xv from cane creek was already close to perfect, on tech climbs the traction is spot on and also on small and medium hits. But i feel that it bucks me a little bit on brake bumps and small quick continuous hits. Any suggestions on tunes to remedy this?

    Also I think I understand what Algian was saying, on longish climb it was a little harder to maintain cadence compared to the the Pivot 5.7 which was my previous bike, on short punchy and techy climb it was not noticeable, but on sustained steep climbs i was losing some momentum.
    i still can't pin point the reason for this, probable the different pedaling position due to the new geometry, maybe i will be able to adopt,

    overall, a very stable bike and on the downs it suits my style very well, specially the roomy toptube,

  21. #1921
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    2013 Spitfire

    Quote Originally Posted by zuman View Post
    But i feel that it bucks me a little bit on brake bumps and small quick continuous hits. Any suggestions on tunes to remedy this?
    Open a bit the high speed compression. Try again, modify, try again, and so on. Until you find your right setting.


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  22. #1922
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    New kid on the block...

    Hey guys,

    new to the forum although I have been lurking for over a year now deciding on my next bike.
    Coming from a Spec Pitch I wanted something similar yet with modern tech solutions and modern geometry.
    Knolly Endorphin was my first option but thanks to a friend I checked out the Spitty more detailed and decided to go with Banshee...

    So - I just pulled the trigger on a large blue Spitty with CCDB. I will build it with my old/new parts in 26" option for the time being but plan to swap to 650b in some distant future.

    The build:

    Pike RC 26"@150mm w/ Banshee headset
    Flow EX's w/Hope silver hubs & Schwalbe HD's
    Hope brakes (either V2 or M4 - haven't decided yet...)
    X9 cranks w/ceramic Sram GXP, AB spiderless chainring (30T), XT med cage, XT cassete&chain, Saint shifter
    Renthal fatbar@780mm w/Sunline 40mm stem & Renthal kevlar grips
    Thomson elite inline seatpost w/ Spec Phenom & Hope seatclamp


    The frame should be here next week so the nerve-wracking anticipation begins...

    I plan to upgrade the Pike to 160mm to avoid pedal strikes when in slack mode. What are Your experiences with 150mm Pike and Spitty in slack mode on 26"?

    What are Your experiences with Banshee headsets? Should I be thinking of upgrading to something better or wait till this one will be ready to replace?


    Special thanks to Bernhard from everyday26 for answering all of my numerous questions!

    Cheers!

  23. #1923
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samos View Post
    Open a bit the high speed compression. Try again, modify, try again, and so on. Until,you find your right setting.
    this has always baffled me, how does opening up the high speed compression helps? my initial thought was to decrease the high speed rebound.

    also has anyone tried a rear fender on their spitty? would a mush guard fit?

  24. #1924
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    Quote Originally Posted by zuman View Post
    this has always baffled me, how does opening up the high speed compression helps? my initial thought was to decrease the high speed rebound.
    It allows the wheel to move out of the way faster. Opening the rebound won't help the wheel get out of the way of the bumps, but it will increase the wheel's return speed, which will only compound the bucking sensation.

    If the rear wheel is packing down and getting stuck at the bottom of it's travel, then yes run a bit less HSR, but to me 'bucking' means the bike pitching forwards and trying to throw you off, which is too fast rebound and/or too firm compression.

  25. #1925
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    ddraz: I ran a 160mm Lyrik on mine in 26" mode, and that is the specified fork length. Now I am on a 160mm Pike 27.5", and that is spot on after some time on a 150mm air shaft.

  26. #1926
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    @hssp: after looking at ATC numbers decided to go with the 160 version from the start --> shaft ordered.

  27. #1927
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    Quote Originally Posted by algian View Post
    You all know the method "bring the pedals round until they’re in a horizontal position (three and nine o’clock). With the balls of your feet on the pedals, the knee of your front leg should be directly above the pedal". This comes from road cycling but it makes sense on seated pedaling.
    What I am experiencing is my knee is a bit forward of the pedal. Not much but enough to think my power output is not the optimum.
    The knee above pedal spindle (KOPS) is an "accidental" rule and definitely does not have to be followed. I do not have my knee above the spindle on any of my bikes and am pedalling just fine.

    You can read more about KOPS here The Myth of K.O.P.S.

  28. #1928
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    went out for a short trail ride yesterday, opened the high speed compression up a turn and it made noticeable difference making it more stable on speed bumps and quick hits,

    the issue with power transfer on up hill pedaling, i moved the saddle a little bit forward and a it feels a lot better now, but i would have to try it on longer steep climbs to know for sure if that cured that issue for me.

    another question on cane creek set-up, which settings do i have to change to make the bike a little easier to jump and bunny hop?

  29. #1929
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    Quote Originally Posted by zuman View Post
    another question on cane creek set-up, which settings do i have to change to make the bike a little easier to jump and bunny hop?
    i would back off the HSR a bit...i was having the same issue, and that's what Cane Creek suggested. i backed off 1/4 turn at first and that seemed to help the bike feel a bit more lively without sacrificing the "plowability" too much
    2014 Banshee Spitfire 650b
    2011-ish Chromag Samurai

  30. #1930
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    Has anyone with the Stealth Black frame found a touch up paint (that matches) to cover up cable rub and scratches ?
    I put some new cables on over the weekend and now I have a big ugly mark where the old derailleur cable used to sit. I tried a sharpie, but it dried purple.

  31. #1931
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    The stealth black isn't painted. I suggest to leave the battle scar.

  32. #1932
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    Hey,

    I have 1 small issue with my spitfire. Today when i tried to instal a bottle holder I couldnt unscrew one nut. That nipple with a tread, where the nut sits is loose in the frame. It just spins around. Anyone had similar issue on their spitfire? Is there any simple fix or I'm gona ride withour bottle? Are issues like this covered in varranty?

    Thanks for replay.

  33. #1933
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willyswildride View Post
    Has anyone with the Stealth Black frame found a touch up paint (that matches) to cover up cable rub and scratches ?
    I put some new cables on over the weekend and now I have a big ugly mark where the old derailleur cable used to sit. I tried a sharpie, but it dried purple.
    The frame is anodised - just stick clear tape over the rubbing patches.
    When the frame looks tatty, jut have it re-anodised by a professional anodiser.

  34. #1934
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    What's a good seat stay protector?
    i'm noticing several paint chipped already with just two weeks of riding.
    inner tube would be the easy solution but not very aesthetically pleasing.

  35. #1935
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    Quote Originally Posted by zuman View Post
    What's a good seat stay protector?
    i'm noticing several paint chipped already with just two weeks of riding.
    inner tube would be the easy solution but not very aesthetically pleasing.
    Chainstay protector you mean?

    If you do it well, you can't tell the difference between the rubberised aadhesive strips you get, but for the lazy, this works great:
    Home



    * I cut my innertube in half (meaning I have a long bent round tube)
    * I then cut it down the middle (along the ridge lines you see on an innertube), meaning I have two long strips
    * I then cut one of those strips again along the length, so that the strip is about 5cm wide.
    * Proceed to wrap like the image above - only one cable tie needed

  36. #1936
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    Frame wrap or bike tape

  37. #1937
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    Some of my friends also use roadbike bar tape - but I've not used this myself.

  38. #1938
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    This Frame Defender stuff is the bomb. With the square stays, you can cut it to fit...


  39. #1939
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    2013 Spitfire-guys-camera-673.jpg

    I use self amalgamating insulation tape which is amazing; it isn't even sticky and just sticks to itself (hence the name). I've even put strips of it on the downtube as a pretty decent downtube protector. If you're UK based then you get it from screwfix and I think toolstation might do it as well.

    looks pretty good I think. I put some on the seat stays as well but with a clutch mech there's no slap up there so probably unnecessary. I think I only get chain slap near the chain guide but its more protection from rock strikes I spose

  40. #1940
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    I just use fuzzy velcro.
    Cheap and decent noise reduction too.

  41. #1941
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    Scotch/3m 2228. Heavy duty ,waterproof electrical tape, it works perfectly for chainstay protection.

  42. #1942
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    so the build begins...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Spitfire-photo-1-1-.jpg  


  43. #1943
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    That blue spitty is for sure the best looking of the banshee colorways. if your anything like me who likes to keep it looking pristine but crashes a lot and not very gentle with the bike, i suggest putting some sort of protection on both seat and chain stays on the drive and the none drive side.
    a sturdier paint will be a good upgrade for the coming banshees, i think.
    because a bike that likes to be ridden on the limits requires a tougher finish.

  44. #1944
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    sure is a beautiful color! the weight for a large with banshee headset, 142 dropouts and axle, seatclamp is ~4kg

    aren't we all like that - bikes are for riding.
    that's why I picked up a set of: 12 MIL CLEAR COMPLETE KIT, looks thick enough, going to be installing it this weekend...

  45. #1945
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddraz View Post
    aren't we all like that - bikes are for riding.
    that's why I picked up a set of: 12 MIL CLEAR COMPLETE KIT, looks thick enough, going to be installing it this weekend...
    good on you for deciding to install frame protection,
    sadly i succumbed to peer pressure that bike skins are for losers,

    bikes are for riding for sure,
    but they're also for ogling, specially after a good bike wash,

  46. #1946
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    Just finished building it up, one trip round the track.
    (XL frame, 650B, 160 Fox34)
    2013 Spitfire-image.jpg2013 Spitfire-image.jpg
    Feels really low in the front coming from a Phantom?

  47. #1947
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kofoed View Post
    Just finished building it up, one trip round the track.
    (XL frame, 650B, 160 Fox34)
    How tall are you?

  48. #1948
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    193cm

  49. #1949
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kofoed View Post
    193cm
    Ok that obvious choice for you. I am 187cm and can't decide L or XL.

  50. #1950
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    definitely go for the Large frame, unless you have freakishly long legs.

  51. #1951
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    I regret not going XL at 185. Had to go 50mm stem after liking the 40mm stem handlig, but not the uprised position.

  52. #1952
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    just finished crankskin-ing the sh*t out of the frame.
    still waiting for the 42t OnUp cog & Hope M4's.

    2013 Spitfire-photo.jpg

  53. #1953
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    I've run the base tune on my ccdba for the past 6 months and love it but I can't help but feel it can get better if I start changing the settings. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated because suspension setup is a true mystery to me.
    Ideally I love a more playful bike. I'm weighing in at 70kg/155lbs

  54. #1954
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    Quote Originally Posted by steeeze View Post
    I've run the base tune on my ccdba for the past 6 months and love it but I can't help but feel it can get better if I start changing the settings. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated because suspension setup is a true mystery to me.
    Ideally I love a more playful bike. I'm weighing in at 70kg/155lbs
    I have turned the HSR (high speed rebound) one full turn towards left (from base tune) => lively pop + giving my fork a faster rebound (2 clicks) as well. Seems to get the bike more lively on standard singletrack.
    Will slow it down again for more gnarley stuff/bikepark though..

  55. #1955
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    Agree with the above. For more pop, I'd back off HSR a quarter turn at a time until you are where you want to be. My understanding is that lighter people are effectively running a lighter spring, so need less rebound damping than heavier people running higher air pressures so the base tune could be on the damped side, esp if you like a lively ride.

    The Cane Creek tuning guide really is a fantastic resource--it can guide you step by step on set up. If you take the time to re-ride a section a bunch of times and tinker you really can find something perfect for you. I (apparently) like very damped bikes cause I'm running a touch more of pretty much all the damping settings than the base tune. But I also weigh about 200 pounds and tend to skim over chunder rather than hop all over the place. Everyone likes a different feel which is what makes the CCDB so cool.

  56. #1956
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    I finally turned on the climb switch on the db air, and the fell of the bike on quick burst of acceleration and sustained pedaling on flats and fire road is great and the bike doesn't zap the energy out of me any more.

    Is there a way to get close to this efficiency in pedaling with the switch turned off?
    What i mean is, is there a way to get efficient pedaling without losing the plushness on brake bumps and quick hits?

    I tend to forget to turn switches off when in race mind set, specially when really tired. I once gone down a race run with my talas in low position. which is why i tend to keep everything in the open position all the time.

  57. #1957
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    This is me and my spitfire on the last climb of the Trans Savoie last week. It was the only Banshee there surprisingly. It was a work of art. The bike is so good on both the climbs and the descents.

    2013 Spitfire-img_20140829_154701083_hdr.jpg

  58. #1958
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    Quote Originally Posted by zuman View Post
    Is there a way to get close to this efficiency in pedaling with the switch turned off? What i mean is, is there a way to get efficient pedaling without losing the plushness on brake bumps and quick hits?
    As with most things, I think it will be a compromise. You can't have DH plush and XC firm pedaling at the same time. You can see if you find a workable middle ground by playing with increased LSR and LSC but honestly, I'd just put a reminder on my stem about the climb switch and have the best of both worlds.

  59. #1959
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    v0.89

    pictures do not do justice to this magnificent blue color...

    still waiting for some parts, but this is basically it:


    2013 Spitfire-dscn3130.jpg
    2013 Spitfire-dscn3132.jpg
    2013 Spitfire-dscn3133.jpg


    Anyone else had trouble with inserting a 30,9x367 Thomson inline seatpost? Mine gets stuck at about half the length...

  60. #1960
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    Manitou Mattoc on his way to me. I hope to receive the crown race before the week-end, or it will be a bad week-end. Fortunately I am totally free next week. So expect some, in bad english, reviews.

  61. #1961
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    Here are some more action shots of me and my Spity, racing at national series last weekend. Started this year and I'm slowly advancing, finished this one at 22nd place. Still far away from top guys, but it's good enough for me(not realy ). 2 more to go this year.
    2013 Spitfire-sloendurokamnik-img_2873-683x1024.jpg2013 Spitfire-sloendurokamnik-img_3778-678x1024.jpg

  62. #1962
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    2013 Spitfire

    A few pics after Mattoc installation. Now at 170mm sure too much, but I was not able to open the air spring...


    Envoyé de mon iPhone à l'aide de Tapatalk

  63. #1963
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    Ok quick question for everyone has anyone run both the Pikes and X-Fusion Sweeps on the Spitty? Reason I'm asking is I run Sweeps just now in 160mm but don't feel like the front tracks very well at speed in tight stuff and wanted to know if the Pikes are any better or if I'd be better maybe dropping travel to 150mm

  64. #1964
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    Any spitty owners know the rear tri (upper & lower stays) measurement in the event someone wished to do.....say a 35mm rim/ 26+ tire combo? 74-75mm would be optimum.

  65. #1965
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultimateweevil View Post
    Ok quick question for everyone has anyone run both the Pikes and X-Fusion Sweeps on the Spitty? Reason I'm asking is I run Sweeps just now in 160mm but don't feel like the front tracks very well at speed in tight stuff and wanted to know if the Pikes are any better or if I'd be better maybe dropping travel to 150mm
    Haven't run the Pike, but I'm running a Marzocchi 350 CR now and it tracks loads better than the XFusion did. The XFusion isn't bad by any means, but the chassis on the 350 CR is a lot stiffer. Supposedly the Pike is a bit stiffer than the XFusion chassis as well. I assume you're asking about tracking in rough stuff at speed, and reducing the travel definitely won't help.
    2014 Banshee Spitfire 650b
    2011-ish Chromag Samurai

  66. #1966
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    Thanks babyz, I didn't think reducing the travel would help with the feeling that it doesn't track well but it was more that the x-fusions just seem to get knocked off their line much too easily.

    What are the marz forks like in general when comparing them with the x-fusion?

  67. #1967
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    I am going to get a spare shock for my Spit, and I am considering the following options (cheapest to most expensive):
    Monarch Debonair (tune M)
    Monarch plus Debonair (tune M)
    Fox Float CTD kashima with AVA

    I will use this shock when the DBAir CS is serviced and for XC type rides and races.

    My wallet wants the Monarch and I want a AVA-Float. The RS Shocks can be serviced by myself, and Fox must be sent away.

    Anyone with some first hand experience with any of these?
    Plushness
    Pedal efficiency
    Bottom out resistance

    Thanks

  68. #1968
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    I just replaced my stock Float CTD garbage with an RS Monarch RT3 Debonair, and it's a night and day difference. I originally thought I might still send the Fox off to Avy for a tune, but I'm so happy with the Monarch I'm not going to bother. I run it full open, and it pedals great, while still feeling bottomless on the downs. For a "cheap" shock, I'm really impressed, and totally satisfied, with no desire to look for anything better.

    But if you'd like to pick up a barely used Float CTD for cheap to send to Avy, drop me a line!
    .....

    To expand on that a bit more, I run a Pike up front, and "balanced" is a great way to describe the bike now. With the Float, it was always harsh in order to prevent bottoming, which didn't match the fork. Not the case with the Monarch. I'm running 25psi less than in the Float, and I have bottomed it at least once, judging by the rubber band being pushed off the shaft, but I never felt it. Whereas the Float was a hard hit, and there was no doubt about when you hit bottom.

    Heat and damping fade isn't an issue for me, since I don't have any long, sustained downhills, so I can't speak to that, but I imagine that's where the Monarch Plus would perform better.
    Last edited by amish_matt; 09-15-2014 at 05:38 AM.

  69. #1969
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    The Monarch is an amazing shock. I put one one my norco range, replacing a fox rp23 and your right it is night and day difference. Recomend it as a worthwhile upgrade.

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    2013 Spitfire-sep14-leadville3.jpg

  71. #1971
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    2013 Spitfire-sep13-bc1.jpg

  72. #1972
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    Is anyone running the new Fox 36s on their Spitty yet and can let us know what they're like?

  73. #1973
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultimateweevil View Post
    Thanks babyz, I didn't think reducing the travel would help with the feeling that it doesn't track well but it was more that the x-fusions just seem to get knocked off their line much too easily.

    What are the marz forks like in general when comparing them with the x-fusion?
    i've posted about them in a few other places around MTBR, but in general, i think they're superior in just about every way. the xfusion is a bit lighter, but 350 is super beefy. the 350's AER air spring is more sensitive to air pressure and a bit difficult to tune at the outset, but i finally have it sorted and love it. the 350 takes a bit longer than the xfusion to break in, but is mega plush and seems much more controlled over repeated hits, especially square edged ones. i want to look into bumping up the HSC on the 350 just a bit, but its quite good as it is. the fork is just generally more confidence inspiring, and i have noticed less hand fatigue on long descents.
    2014 Banshee Spitfire 650b
    2011-ish Chromag Samurai

  74. #1974
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    So, now that I’ve had the Spitty for a little while, I’m keen to play a bit with the set up a bit.
    I was thinking of putting a -2 degree H/A reducer cup in there, and running the bike in it’s High setting, therefore shortening the CS.

    What I can’t quite figure out, is whether the H/A cup will drop the BB at all and what this change will do to the overall wheelbase?

    I’m using 650b wheels, with a 160mm Marzocchi 350 (think it’s the same A2C as the Pike)

  75. #1975
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    What rear tire are you running? I've read a lot of people run the 26" dropouts with 650b wheels and have clearance for all but the biggest tires. Might be an easier way to tighten up the rear end.

  76. #1976
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    this bike geometry calculator is brilliant;

    geometryCalc

    ...saved me loads of brain ache...

  77. #1977
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    @amish_matt - thanks, I did consider that, but I don;t want to shorten the Spitfire. I love the longish wheelbase and don;t really want to shorten it, hence the h/a cup idea.

    crazyape - thanks, will play with that for a bit

  78. #1978
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    Ah, so shorten the rear, lengthen the front was the idea, gotcha.

  79. #1979
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    Quote Originally Posted by amish_matt View Post
    Ah, so shorten the rear, lengthen the front was the idea, gotcha.
    That's where my head's at - only issue is that I don't want to shorten my reach at the same time. Maybe I'll just ride it as it is after all

  80. #1980
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    Whats the weight on the latest Spitfire frames? THey were rumored to be lighter?

  81. #1981
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    Somewhere between 3100 and 3400 grams, depending on frame size and color ...

  82. #1982
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    Spitty's had a bit of love.

    Finally got around to opening the fork up, and as I suspected, it was bone dry.
    Seals hadn't been greased and the air side didn't have any oil in it (making the fork feel far too linear as a result)

    Got the new DBinline on it, and it's a lovely match. Also got fed up with rubbish BBs, so stole a ceramic one

    New Specialized Grid casing tyres (Endurobro specific, so they are thicker than the standard trail ones) Purgatory rear and Butcher front.






  83. #1983
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    Quote Originally Posted by supercow View Post
    Spitty's had a bit of love.

    Finally got around to opening the fork up, and as I suspected, it was bone dry.
    Seals hadn't been greased and the air side didn't have any oil in it (making the fork feel far too linear as a result)

    Got the new DBinline on it, and it's a lovely match. Also got fed up with rubbish BBs, so stole a ceramic one

    New Specialized Grid casing tyres (Endurobro specific, so they are thicker than the standard trail ones) Purgatory rear and Butcher front.





    Loving the set-up, did you get a base tune with your Inline? if so did you find it reasonably close to what you wanted?

  84. #1984
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    Thanks dude

    The bike came with a base tune so to speak.
    TF tuned ( UK suspension specialist) supplied me with this shock, and set it up for what they think would be suitable for the details I gave them.

    I'm experienced with the CCDB and know what I like. I thought the tune they provided was was pretty far off. I set it back to Vanilla settings (CC's listed base tune) and worked at it bit at it by feel and a bit by experience (knowing how much HSC I'd want and HSR will most likely be ok).

    Guessed at it pretty well and feel that I had it dialled pretty much near perfect for Trail Riding (mixed terrain, fun singletrack, some jumps etc)

    Was a little bit afraid that I'll get bucked a the very first set of jumps were relatively sizeable doubles (not quite rampage, and video always make it look small) - but even that turned out very well. The shock and fork felt so good, the first time over I nearly flat landed both without feeling like I was being pitched, hence the reason the folllowing vid I tried to nose it in slower in stead

    https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10152702638473774

  85. #1985
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    Quote Originally Posted by supercow View Post
    Thanks dude

    The bike came with a base tune so to speak.
    TF tuned ( UK suspension specialist) supplied me with this shock, and set it up for what they think would be suitable for the details I gave them.

    I'm experienced with the CCDB and know what I like. I thought the tune they provided was was pretty far off. I set it back to Vanilla settings (CC's listed base tune) and worked at it bit at it by feel and a bit by experience (knowing how much HSC I'd want and HSR will most likely be ok).

    Guessed at it pretty well and feel that I had it dialled pretty much near perfect for Trail Riding (mixed terrain, fun singletrack, some jumps etc)

    Was a little bit afraid that I'll get bucked a the very first set of jumps were relatively sizeable doubles (not quite rampage, and video always make it look small) - but even that turned out very well. The shock and fork felt so good, the first time over I nearly flat landed both without feeling like I was being pitched, hence the reason the folllowing vid I tried to nose it in slower in stead

    https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10152702638473774
    Ah cool, got my inline in the house waiting to be fitted, i got mine from TF Tuned as well. :-) I wasnt sure if the CCDBA base settings would be sufficient but its good to hear that yours is running well.

    :-)

  86. #1986
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    Hi! This is my Spitfire. XL frame.
    Last edited by Amstaff; 04-20-2016 at 01:22 PM.

  87. #1987
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    Looks supberb those forks are perfection!

  88. #1988
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    Quote Originally Posted by steeeze View Post
    Looks supberb those forks are perfection!
    Yeah! I got really lucky with the fork. I got a nice deal and the color is perfect...

  89. #1989
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    Why on earth would you run it in 27.5 and 26???

  90. #1990
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    nice build - looks super slack with that 650b front wheel.

    Can I ask - what are the pros and cons with running the wheels like this? I've not really seen or thought about it before. what are the performance differences etc? and to what extent are the HA,BB,SA changed?

    It could be a relatively inexpensive way to dip my toe into 650b once my fork packs up (which it will do soon given my Jurassic age service intervals). Im due a front wheel change soon too.

  91. #1991
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    Quote Originally Posted by supercow View Post
    Why on earth would you run it in 27.5 and 26???
    Just for shits and giggles...

  92. #1992
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    ...
    Last edited by Amstaff; 04-20-2016 at 01:24 PM.

  93. #1993
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    That Spitfire is tits !!!

  94. #1994
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    That Spitfire is tits !!!
    Thanks man. At least I think this is a positive coment...

  95. #1995
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    Anyone tried fitting a Blackspire Bruiser on their Spitty?

    Obviously I'm trying to fit an ISCG05 type, goes on ok but when on the granny the chain starts to rub on the backplate as early as 2/3rds of the way up the cassette.

    Hope bb, Sixc cranks, all spacers etc in the correct order. I imagine if it's catching on the Bruiser the chain will catch on any ISCG05 device.

  96. #1996
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluearsedfly View Post
    Anyone tried fitting a Blackspire Bruiser on their Spitty?

    Obviously I'm trying to fit an ISCG05 type, goes on ok but when on the granny the chain starts to rub on the backplate as early as 2/3rds of the way up the cassette.

    Hope bb, Sixc cranks, all spacers etc in the correct order. I imagine if it's catching on the Bruiser the chain will catch on any ISCG05 device.
    I run the e.13 XCX with the direct mount derailleur format (SRAM S3 or whatever) and it works great. That being said, I've been riding my hardtail without a guide at all and have not dropped a chain since I picked up a 32t narrow wide ring.
    2014 Banshee Spitfire 650b
    2011-ish Chromag Samurai

  97. #1997
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    Sorry, forgot to add it's a 2x10 setup and it's rubbing when on the granny ring.

  98. #1998
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    That photo is a really clear indication of the differences between 26 and 27.5.
    It's clear for everyone to see now.

    (if you hadn't told us, how many would even have noticed!)

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    ...
    Last edited by Amstaff; 04-20-2016 at 01:27 PM.

  100. #2000
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    Quote Originally Posted by thingswelike View Post
    That photo is a really clear indication of the differences between 26 and 27.5.
    It's clear for everyone to see now.

    (if you hadn't told us, how many would even have noticed!)
    it's clear to see with a setup like amstaff's bike but the diff is quite minor in reality.