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Thread: 2013 Spitfire

  1. #901
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    Here's my large Spitty in raw and a touch of blue (yeah I like blue). Running the 26" drops for now and waiting for the new revised 650b drops to become available. Pacenti Neo Moto 2.3" tires fit fine (actually Schwalbe NN 2.35's fit but very little clearance at the uprights). 30lbs as it sits now. Running the high/steep setting which with these tires and fork translates to a 13 5/8" BB height and between 67.5 and 68 degree HA. Works good in the rocks/roots of New England

    2013 Spitfire-img_0308r.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0315r.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0310r.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0316r.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0317r.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0318r.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0323r.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0322r.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0304r.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0305r.jpg2013 Spitfire-img_0306r.jpg

  2. #902
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    That looks sweet! Love the blue highlights.

  3. #903
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    Congratulation Skidad, that Spitfire is looking really good - like the Parts and Color-Sheme very much!
    Well, it took a long Time to get this Baby ready to ride - hope you enjoy it!!!

  4. #904
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    Thanks for the compliments guys. I originally really wanted the black frame but none were available in my size so I went with the raw. Super happy with my choice now as it does look really nice and play's well with the blue stuff. Should clean up easier also being clear coated.

    No Style yeah to long for sure with this build. Kind of made an agreement with myself to sell off my Jamis and Cannondale (in order to fund this build) before completing it. That, and a dirt bike and hiking hobby (among others) kill more time and money. Only 30 miles so far but man am I impressed with the rear suspension. It's what I had hoped for after reading many reviews and e-riding suspension kinematic charts from Antonio O Suna's linkage design blog site. Now time to just ride, tweak, and enjoy.

  5. #905
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    Thanks for the compliments guys. I originally really wanted the black frame but none were available in my size so I went with the raw. Super happy with my choice now as it does look really nice and play's well with the blue stuff. Should clean up easier also being clear coated.

    No Style yeah to long for sure with this build. Kind of made an agreement with myself to sell off my Jamis and Cannondale (in order to fund this build) before completing it. That, and a dirt bike and hiking hobby (among others) kill more time and money. Only 30 miles so far but man am I impressed with the rear suspension. It's what I had hoped for after reading many reviews and e-riding suspension kinematic charts from Antonio O Suna's linkage design blog site. Now time to just ride, tweak, and enjoy.
    It`s really nice, could u please tell the final weight??
    I've ordered a 2014's frame and I am worried about the final weight because it connot be more than 13.5 Kf

  6. #906
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    Quote Originally Posted by berenco View Post
    It`s really nice, could u please tell the final weight??
    I've ordered a 2014's frame and I am worried about the final weight because it connot be more than 13.5 Kf
    Weight is 30.7lbs now with the dropper post (13.9kg). Way's to lighten it would be a carbon bar, lighter hubs (Hadley rear Hope EVO front now), lighter rims or carbon rims (Stans Flows now), no dropper post, lighter tires maybe. What else I don't know as the drive train is XX1, the fork is 4.1lbs, the brakes are SLX and the pedals are Straitline Amps. All reasonably light stuff. You should be able to meet your goal weight with very careful selection of parts. I was personally hoping this was gonna be under 30lbs and if I eventually get the new Derby carbon rims and add a carbon bar it just might be.

    Derby 40mm wide carbon 650b rims WIDE rims

  7. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    Weight is 30.7lbs now with the dropper post (13.9kg). Way's to lighten it would be a carbon bar, lighter hubs (Hadley rear Hope EVO front now), lighter rims or carbon rims (Stans Flows now), no dropper post, lighter tires maybe. What else I don't know as the drive train is XX1, the fork is 4.1lbs, the brakes are SLX and the pedals are Straitline Amps. All reasonably light stuff. You should be able to meet your goal weight with very careful selection of parts. I was personally hoping this was gonna be under 30lbs and if I eventually get the new Derby carbon rims and add a carbon bar it just might be.

    Derby 40mm wide carbon 650b rims WIDE rims
    Thanks skidad it'a a good weight
    My setting will be as follows:
    Frame L with cane creek dbs 2014
    rock shox pike 26''
    rock shox reverb stealth
    complete sram XX1
    brakes shimano xtr
    mavic st
    enve dh bar cut at 76mm
    Tires high roller fr 2.35 and larsen 2.35 2play rear
    stem syntace megaforce 30mm
    selle italia slr
    Crank brothers mallet DH

    I think the weight will be between 13.5-14kg

  8. #908
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    That's a beautiful build skidad.

    I'm getting parts together now in preparation for the arrival of my '14 frame , just wondering what size chainstay protector you used ?

    Thanks !

  9. #909
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pinky View Post
    That's a beautiful build skidad.

    I'm getting parts together now in preparation for the arrival of my '14 frame , just wondering what size chainstay protector you used ?

    Thanks !
    I had it just kicking around from my Jamis Dakar B2 but it fits good and pretty much covers the entire stay. It's actually for 29'er bikes and the 650b Jamis had 17.7" stays

    Neoprene Chainstay Protector - 29er Jumbo | Lizard Skins

    I see they have it in blue now

  10. #910
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    Thanks a heap ! Good to have some dimensions to work with.

  11. #911
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    Re: 2013 Spitfire

    Quote Originally Posted by Pinky View Post
    That's a beautiful build skidad.

    I'm getting parts together now in preparation for the arrival of my '14 frame , just wondering what size chainstay protector you used ?

    Thanks !
    Use Frame Wrap. Fits perfect to everything and looks great! Long lasting too

  12. #912
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    Yeah I have used frame wrap for the last few years but thought I'd try a neoprene cover again. Also searching for other ideas , I discovered 3M 2228 mastic tape today. Looks like a great option too.

  13. #913
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    Big fan of the mastic tape. Looks really stealth on the black ano frame as well.

  14. #914
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    Here is my Spitfire again, with Modifications on the Seattube, ISCG-Tabs and BB-Shell, after switching from Size M to L. Picture was taken somewhere back in May 2013 ...

    Since then no changes, except going for a C-Guide-Type Rubber Tube from Gardena, just to prevent Chain from rubbing downside the lower Yoke. No other Chainguiding required, so I will leave it like this.

    Maybe switching to a slightly wider (780-800 mm Bars) and shorter (35-40 mm Stem) Cockpit, 1x10 Custom-Drivetrain with 11-42 Cassette and XT-Clutch Derailleur and a Hydraulic Seatpost as upcoming Upgrades.

    I often switch between the CCDB Air and my Evolver-ISX. Both awesome Shocks to compliment the KS-Link-Suspension. Tough Decision which one to keep and to sell the other.

    Apart from that: Still the very best Trailbike for me. Had a great Season so far and Iīm shure there will be great Seasons on my Spitfire to come in the next Years!!!


  15. #915
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    How tall you are ?

    Why did you switch from m to l ?

  16. #916
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    Iīm 180/181 cm tall, with 83/84 cm Inseam.

    I always was on Medium-Size Frames, but my Riding-Style turnes more and more towards AM/Enduro/Allday-Touring. 50% Climbing, 50% going flat or down, with lots of Pedalling. For this Medium was a really good fit, but had the Feeling that a large Frame could slightly do better on long Climbs and can give more Stability in steep technical Sections.
    This is my first large Framesize ever and it turned out just like this! I have to say that the Medium Spitfire was equipped with a -1 Deg Angleset (like the Rune), the large now has -0,5 Deg, 26 Dropouts and Fork and works pretty well for me in every Aspect.

    While the V2 Banshees do have a nicely dialed Forward-Style-Geometry, itīs easy to go with the next larger Framesize and reduce Stem-Length if necessary. The longer Reach and Wheelbase has one single and great Effect: Your Position and Weight over the Bike is pretty damn centered, which makes it very controllable in any Situation. So itīs not less nimble - just less nervous! Especially when the Trails gets rough, steep and fast ...

  17. #917
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Iīm 180/181 cm tall, with 83/84 cm Inseam.

    I always was on Medium-Size Frames, but my Riding-Style turnes more and more towards AM/Enduro/Allday-Touring. 50% Climbing, 50% going flat or down, with lots of Pedalling. For this Medium was a really good fit, but had the Feeling that a large Frame could slightly do better on long Climbs and can give more Stability in steep technical Sections.
    This is my first large Framesize ever and it turned out just like this! I have to say that the Medium Spitfire was equipped with a -1 Deg Angleset (like the Rune), the large now has -0,5 Deg, 26 Dropouts and Fork and works pretty well for me in every Aspect.

    While the V2 Banshees do have a nicely dialed Forward-Style-Geometry, itīs easy to go with the next larger Framesize and reduce Stem-Length if necessary. The longer Reach and Wheelbase has one single and great Effect: Your Position and Weight over the Bike is pretty damn centered, which makes it very controllable in any Situation. So itīs not less nimble - just less nervous! Especially when the Trails gets rough, steep and fast ...
    Thanks a lot, very helpfull for my size selection.

  18. #918
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    Quote Originally Posted by krj View Post
    Thanks a lot, very helpfull for my size selection.
    Youīre welcome!
    Well, from my personal experience there are this two major Aspects to think about:
    - A sligthly longer Bike is not less playfull, itīs just less nervous in most Situations.
    - If you are caught between two Sizes, go with the next larger one and reduce Stem-Length.

  19. #919
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    I have a Rune too in size L with 30 stem and I'm 1'77m It works perfect and i love it. before I have a jekyll in M with 60 stem and I fell outside the bike I Sorry for my English I'm spanish boy.

  20. #920
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    Same here, on my old Tracer I went from a size M with 80mm stem to an L with a 60mm stem and felt much more comfortable and stable. Now I have ordered a 2014 Spitty L and will start out with the 60mm stem and 740mm bars. Should be here next month. So looking forward to building this one up.

  21. #921
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    Quote Originally Posted by berenco View Post
    I have a Rune too in size L with 30 stem and I'm 1'77m It works perfect and i love it. before I have a jekyll in M with 60 stem and I fell outside the bike I Sorry for my English I'm spanish boy.
    Great thanks a lot

  22. #922
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    Thks, it sounds I 'd trade my M Blur LT with a Banshee ( spitfire or rune decision still on the way)

  23. #923
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    I'm trying to figure out sizing for a V2 frame. I'm in between size M and L. Pictured below is my v1, medium. Thats with the Reverb all the way up for climbing, and a 90mm stem. While I dont feel cramped with a 90mm stem, I'm wondering how the new bike would be with something a lot shorter. I'm 5'11.

    2013 Spitfire-v1spitty.jpg

  24. #924
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    Quote Originally Posted by blast_off View Post
    I'm trying to figure out sizing for a V2 frame. I'm in between size M and L. Pictured below is my v1, medium. Thats with the Reverb all the way up for climbing, and a 90mm stem. While I dont feel cramped with a 90mm stem, I'm wondering how the new bike would be with something a lot shorter. I'm 5'11.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	v1spitty.jpg 
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    I'd recommend a Large V2 with 50mm stem for you. There are significant benefits in using a shorter stem on this bike, and the sizing should work well for you.
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  25. #925
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    I'd recommend a Large V2 with 50mm stem for you. There are significant benefits in using a shorter stem on this bike, and the sizing should work well for you.
    thanks buddy!

  26. #926
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    hi!

    Went from a ano black V1 to a ano black V2.

    I still don't like all those white accents on the frame. V1 was more blackish...

    Any way of removing all that white? looks like paint over the ano alu...

    another thing. recently my 142x12 axle keeps getting loose after a while. should I use blue loctite on it? It came clean with no glue...

    thanks. I need to get a torque wrench...

  27. #927
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    AW: 2013 Spitfire

    Quote Originally Posted by nmb View Post
    hi!

    Went from a ano black V1 to a ano black V2.

    Any way of removing all that white? looks like paint over the ano alu...
    On my V1 Aceton was perfekt to remove all paint...

  28. #928
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post

    Since then no changes, except going for a C-Guide-Type Rubber Tube from Gardena, just to prevent Chain from rubbing downside the lower Yoke. No other Chainguiding required, so I will leave it like this.
    Hi!
    could you please post a picture showing how you have mounted this Gardena Rubber tube. I have just (almost) finished my build and I am also facing this problem.
    After installing my new lyrik fork I will show a picture of my new bike. After some rides with fast and technical downhills I am stunned by its performance :-)

    Cheers,
    Thomas

  29. #929
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    Its not looking pretty sexy, but works fine, easy Installment, cheap and quiet ...

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Spitfire-foto.jpg  


  30. #930
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmb View Post

    another thing. recently my 142x12 axle keeps getting loose after a while. should I use blue loctite on it? It came clean with no glue...

    thanks. I need to get a torque wrench...
    A 2-12Nm torque wrench really is a tool that every serious mountain biker should have. I've seen so many parts like stems crack, and bolts chew due to being over tightened.

    You should ensure that your axle is liberally greased before putting it through the wheel. Some loctitie paste or PTFE tape around the threads will help prefevt it from loosening. Do the same to the lockbolt just to help prevent that loosening if you wish.

    As long as the lockbolt is in place the axle cannot loosen significantly.
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  31. #931
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    NoStyle, How many miles of pedaling have you put that jerry rig through? I've been riding a clutch rear derailleur with no lower pulley/lower chain guide. I havent had any problems with my chain dropping there, but it is noisy and definitely eats away through my chain stay protection.

    I think on my next rig ill go back to using the lower pulley.

  32. #932
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    Hmmm, I canīt quote a Number of Miles. But I have spend almost every Weekend and some Extra-Rides during Holidays with this Setup since May this Year. Letīs say 20-30 Kilometers per Ride. This Gardena Garden-Hose-Rubber shows almost no Sign of Wear! And if so, just cut the next Piece and zip-tie it to the Stays.
    This is a simple way to keep the Chain in Device, if necessary, like a Bionicon C-Guide, but alot cheaper. But I havenīt experienced any Chaindrop - and Iīm using a non-Clutch-Derailleur. Itīs more a "Savety" for the lower Yoke than Device, but does both very well ...

  33. #933
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    A 2-12Nm torque wrench really is a tool that every serious mountain biker should have. I've seen so many parts like stems crack, and bolts chew due to being over tightened.

    You should ensure that your axle is liberally greased before putting it through the wheel. Some loctitie paste or PTFE tape around the threads will help prefevt it from loosening. Do the same to the lockbolt just to help prevent that loosening if you wish.

    As long as the lockbolt is in place the axle cannot loosen significantly.
    thank you Keith. since I had several issues with the V1, on the V2 I didn't touch a single bolt yet, except on the trail on the rear axle. The axle was free of locktite so I never added any. the two or three times it happened, I just tightened with my minitool so I'm sure I didn't over tightened it. lockbolt also gets loosened...

    I need a torque wrench badly

    Keith, how about removing the white paint except the banshee lettering. any input?

  34. #934
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    very cool! i might have to try that out...

  35. #935
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlf.ski.bike.sail View Post
    very cool! i might have to try that out...
    Yes, simple and effective for the Cost of a few Cent ... since then no Reason to go with any Chain-Device, except maybe a Tacco or Bash to prevent Chainring-Damage

  36. #936
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    First off, I feel I need to apologize in advance for another "What size should I get post?", but let me explain...

    I am very new to mountain biking, and have started to look at buying my first bike. I have an opportunity to pick up an XL Spitfire V2, new in the box at a steep discount, from a friend who ordered one and now needs to sell it due to some recent financial troubles.

    I currently am borrowing an old 2004 21" Giant Yukon from my work, and have been having a blast riding around the many trails in my neighborhood.

    I am 6'2", 33.5" inseam, 26" arm length. I also tip the scales at 220lbs. My question is, is this bike going to be too big for me? I wouldn't normally have looked at a banshee, but it is like getting a BMW at a Chevy price.

    Thanks in advance

    tl;dr Newbie can get an XL spitfire cheap, wants to know if the bike is too big for 6'2" 33.5" inseam

  37. #937
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    I'm 6'2" and have a Spitfire V2 in XL. It's perfect. With your fairly long arms you'll be fine, and if it feels big go with a shorter stem and center mount seat-post...

  38. #938
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    Does anyone else get a significant amount of creaking from somehwere in the rear suspension area? I'm posting on behalf of my friend with a V2 in large, and he has a creaking that we can't seem to track down and I'm wondering if it is a consitent problem. Everything seems to be torqued properly, but I might be missing something. Or maybe it is just normal, I admit to being used to bikes with a lot less pivots.

  39. #939
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    Wherenīt there Tolerance-Issues with the Shock-Bushings that causes this Creaking? Happened to some Riders with first Generation CCDBs and got new Bushings under Warranty ...

  40. #940
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooldaddy View Post
    I'm 6'2" and have a Spitfire V2 in XL. It's perfect. With your fairly long arms you'll be fine, and if it feels big go with a shorter stem and center mount seat-post...
    Thanks! That's exactly what I wanted to hear.

  41. #941
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Wherenīt there Tolerance-Issues with the Shock-Bushings that causes this Creaking? Happened to some Riders with first Generation CCDBs and got new Bushings under Warranty ...
    That's a thought, though he's on a Fox CTD. The creaking is noticable under hard pedaling. I can compare the bushings to others we have around.

  42. #942
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    Grease the seat tube/post liberally before you do anything else!

    I had some really nasty creaking this summer on my prime and ended up pulling the entire bike apart only to find it was the seatpost. easy to forget these days with dropper posts...

  43. #943
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    seat post creaking is easy to diagnose. just test it unseated

  44. #944
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    Re: 2013 Spitfire

    ive had my spitfire with fox ctd built up for 4 months now and in that time ive had three instances of creaking that all sounded like they were coming from the bb/linkage area under heavy pedaling force. The first was cured by nipping up the hope bottom bracket. the 2nd turned out to be that the mech hanger needed nipping up and the third was the chainring bolts , so worth checking those three if you havent already.

    Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

  45. #945
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    Thanks, I'll check all those. I did check that the seat post was greased, and it does occur while unseated. Had some problems with the rear mech hanger, so that's a likely culprit.

  46. #946
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    Try removing and cleaning your seat post and seat tube. This reduced creaking on mine but i still do have a minor sqeak i cant pin point may be my crankset.

  47. #947
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    Just subscribing to this thread. I ordered a stealth black 2014 Spitfire that is due to arrive in November. I had originally ordered a Rune but changed my order to a more versatile spitfire.

    Parts list that I've ordered thus far:
    Rockshox Pike 150mm
    Rockshox Reverb Dropper stealth
    XX1 Groupset
    Chris King Hubs
    Chris King Headset
    Thomson Carbon Bars

    I'm still trying to decide on which 650b carbon rims I'll be going with.

  48. #948
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    Re: 2013 Spitfire

    Quote Originally Posted by steeeze View Post
    Just subscribing to this thread. I ordered a stealth black 2014 Spitfire that is due to arrive in November. I had originally ordered a Rune but changed my order to a more versatile spitfire.

    Parts list that I've ordered thus far:
    Rockshox Pike 150mm
    Rockshox Reverb Dropper stealth
    XX1 Groupset
    Chris King Hubs
    Chris King Headset
    Thomson Carbon Bars

    I'm still trying to decide on which 650b carbon rims I'll be going with.
    Chris king doesn't make hubs for XX1...

  49. #949
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    Chris king doesn't make hubs for XX1...
    Thank you for that handy nugget of information! Any suggestions with groupset?

    Maybe the beautiful Chris King hubs need to be sent back.

  50. #950
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    Re: 2013 Spitfire

    Quote Originally Posted by steeeze View Post
    Thank you for that handy nugget of information! Any suggestions with groupset?

    Maybe the beautiful Chris King hubs need to be sent back.
    You can still run 1x10 or 2x10 with the CK hubs. But it doesn't look like CK will offer xx1 hubs anytime soon.
    If you want to run 1x11 (which would be my choice as well) you will need to look elsewhere. Most of the hub manufacturers have an option for xx1.

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