2013 Spitfire

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  • 05-20-2014
    bluearsedfly
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by AssPav View Post
    Yup that's the one.
    This exact one
    I never noticed the minimum chainring size but have asked on another forum on running the mech with 22/36 with positive replies before purchase.

    You have to just run it right up the top of its adjustment if you have to clear a bashguard.

    Thanks for that, have fitted it just need to get it set up.

    Only major problem I have now is that on small/small and the next couple of gears up on the cassette the chain is touching the chainstay!

    Chain is the correct length (big/big shock fully compressed without chain through rear mech/two links plus missing link).

    Don't know what to do now. Sixc cranks 36/24, 11-36 cassette, xt gs clutch mech.

    Am am I missing something obvious?
  • 05-20-2014
    builttoride
    You should never really run small small, that is cross gearing and can damage your chain. (really in granny ring you should only use top 2/3rds of cassette or so).

    Why Avoid Cross Chaining Gears On Your Bike

    Plus when on the bike you will sag the suspension and increase the clearance in this location.
  • 05-20-2014
    bluearsedfly
    Thanks keith, I wouldn't normally 'cross gear' I was just a bit thrown as its something I've never noticed on other frames.

    I always thought one of the advantages of running 2x10 was that you could use the whole of the cassette on both rings, similar to 1x10?

    Will just have to make a conscious effort to stay at the top of the cassette when I'm on the granny.
  • 05-20-2014
    AssPav
    By the time you get to about halfway down the cassette you could already be in the big ring anyways.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by bluearsedfly View Post
    I always thought one of the advantages of running 2x10 was that you could use the whole of the cassette on both rings, similar to 1x10?

    Nah it's for the wider range/closer ratios than a 1x.
  • 05-20-2014
    bluearsedfly
    Think I will put some innertube around the area, was thinking changing from the neutral to high setting would help too but I like the way it handles as it is.
  • 05-23-2014
    Autocratic
    Hi all. I'm going to be buying a V2 frame soon as my next bike. I wanted to know what headset I need and what bottom bracket this frame fits.

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  • 05-23-2014
    Samos
    2013 Spitfire
    My Spitfire love to be on pictures

    Monday , Aiguilles de Baulmes
    [URL=http://forum.velovert.com/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&img=20194]

    Wednesday , Lucerne





    Thursday, Zurich


    Nice views


    Sam
  • 05-24-2014
    cooldaddy
    1 Attachment(s)
    my Spitfire also loves to be in pictures, and my dog is a poser too ;-)

    Attachment 895833
  • 05-25-2014
    guswalls
    After receiving a red frame, I now am thinking of changing everything and not swapping parts over from my 26er.
    What I have brand new so far:
    Frame: XL 2013 Red with CCDBa CS
    Fork: RS Pike 150 solo air
    Cranks: SLX w/ Race Face narrow wide 32t ring
    Pedals: DMR Vaults w/ blue pins
    Shifter: ZEE
    Rear Derailleur: Zee

    I have 2 questions: would the cc new inline shock be a better choice, does anybody feel like the CCDBa CS is too much shock? and my lbs has a set of Hope race m4 brakes. Does anybody think that the e4s are overkill as a rear brake.
  • 05-25-2014
    qbert2000
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by guswalls View Post
    After receiving a red frame, I now am thinking of changing everything and not swapping parts over from my 26er.
    What I have brand new so far:
    Frame: XL 2013 Red with CCDBa CS
    Fork: RS Pike 150 solo air
    Cranks: SLX w/ Race Face narrow wide 32t ring
    Pedals: DMR Vaults w/ blue pins
    Shifter: ZEE
    Rear Derailleur: Zee

    I have 2 questions: would the cc new inline shock be a better choice, does anybody feel like the CCDBa CS is too much shock? and my lbs has a set of Hope race m4 brakes. Does anybody think that the e4s are overkill as a rear brake.

    right now all you know of the new ccdb inline is what the marketing department has to say. i think ccdbs are over rated anyways. for a decent shock a tuned fox float is a great way to go. avalanche will tune it for less than $200 and craig will tell you it is a good shock after tuning and will compare ride quality with a ccdb air and weigh less.

    as far as brakes go, just run a 160mm rotor on the back. the hopes have decent modulation.
  • 05-25-2014
    supercow
    I beg to severely differ qbert2000. I have not felt an avalanche Fox, however have felt every other after market "tuning" under the sun. All that ever does, is make the float "passable ".

    The CCDBA makes the Spitfire feel like a monster truck and it rocks.


    Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
  • 05-25-2014
    Samos
    2013 Spitfire
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by cooldaddy View Post
    my Spitfire also loves to be in pictures, and my dog is a poser too ;-)

    Attachment 895833

    You're dog is sooooo nice. And the landscape seems to be perfect


    Envoyé de mon iPhone à l'aide de Tapatalk
  • 05-25-2014
    qbert2000
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by supercow View Post
    I beg to severely differ qbert2000. I have not felt an avalanche Fox, however have felt every other after market "tuning" under the sun. All that ever does, is make the float "passable ".

    The CCDBA makes the Spitfire feel like a monster truck and it rocks.


    Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

    http://forums.mtbr.com/knolly/avalan...ds-890566.html

    read the thread. avalanche has much better services than push or suspension workx etc. lots in the knolly firum have tried and are impressed. craigs own words are that the fox will feel as good as the ccdb and be lighter. in his own opinion the ultimate air shock would be the floatx tuned with his ssd mod.
  • 05-26-2014
    supercow
    Haha, he recommends his own work eh... shocking;)

    Didn't read anything in there that's conclusive. I don't doubt avalanche stuff is good, but that's compared to woeful stock 34 forks or CTD shocks.

    Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
  • 05-26-2014
    supercow
    Re: 2013 Spitfire


    If you got bike problems, I feel bad for you son, I got 99 problems but my Spitty ain't one.

    30.21 LBS of monster truckin' goodness. That's with a Schwalbe Super Gravity Vertstar tyre in the rear (just a bit under a pound heavier than single ply) and a generous helping of tubeless sealant.

    I'm happy to take the weight hit and slower rolling, for the surefootedness this rear tyre provides.

    Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
  • 05-28-2014
    aroche
    I posted this in the wrong thread earlier, apologies, think it would go better here.

    Just wondering about sizing...

    I'm right on the button between a small and a medium (at 170cm/ 5ft 7") which is something that bothers me to be honest. I like a roomier cockpit, but not an overly long bike overall.

    I currently have a Medium Transition Bandit, - which I find just a little short, and a Nukeproof Mega AM which I find a little long overall . The cockpit on the Nukeproof is fine, but it is slightly longer on the chainstay than the Spitfire and I'm also running a Lyrik 170mm RC2DH fork which adds again to the wheelbase, I would lower this same fork to 160mm for the Spitfire (if I go with one). I would hope to replace both of these bikes with the Spitfire, reusing parts.

    The spitfire ticks a heap of boxes for me overall, - just a bit bothered that I am between sizes on it. I'm thinking that with the shorter chainstays than the Nukeproof it might be fine though. Any thoughts? Anyone around the 5ft 7" mark riding a medium?

    Cheers...
  • 05-28-2014
    supercow
    Easy answer - Medium.
    My mate is 5.7" (I'm 5.8") and we both have Mediums with 50mm stems. He can get away with getting a 35mm stem, if he wanted to make the cockpit shorter. He's got no issues with standover.
  • 05-28-2014
    theraggyone
    Im the same height as you and ride a medium with a 50mm stem the bike fits great but sometimes I feel switching to a 35mm stem would feel slightly better:)

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  • 05-28-2014
    radnark
    How are people finding climbing with the CCDB Air (no climb switch)?
  • 05-28-2014
    supercow
    Never use it to be honest

    Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
  • 05-28-2014
    elistan
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by radnark View Post
    How are people finding climbing with the CCDB Air (no climb switch)?

    its fine. its just a lock out. We have been climbing with and with out lock out for years.
  • 05-28-2014
    Colin+M
    I never use a lockout on my Prime, currently running a DBcoil. Cane Creek states however that the CS is NOT a traditional lockout and might actually be more usuable than others.
  • 05-28-2014
    hssp
    Ok, this may or may not have been covered before:
    Will any other axle like, Maxle light fit the 142x12mm dropouts? It makes wheelchanges much easier..

    Cheers.
  • 05-28-2014
    Colin+M
    Maxle definitely works.
  • 05-28-2014
    hssp
    Sweeeeeet!
  • 05-29-2014
    ev.
    Absolutely loving this bike, but finding that I could use a little more progressivist in the rear end. I'm running that Fox CTD shock, and considering toying with volume spacers to make it ramp up.
    Does anyone have any experience in this area?
  • 05-29-2014
    dirtrider76
    I did it on my Rune and I ride with Ferguson65 who did his Spitfire. It did help for both of us, I am not sure how big he went with the spacer though.
  • 05-29-2014
    cooldaddy
    yes, worth a try. smallest spacer worked for me.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ev. View Post
    Absolutely loving this bike, but finding that I could use a little more progressivist in the rear end. I'm running that Fox CTD shock, and considering toying with volume spacers to make it ramp up.
    Does anyone have any experience in this area?

  • 05-29-2014
    radnark
    Anybody using a Monarch Plus RC3 as rear suspension? Feedback or thoughts would be appreciated..
  • 05-29-2014
    qbert2000
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by radnark View Post
    Anybody using a Monarch Plus RC3 as rear suspension? Feedback or thoughts would be appreciated..

    i do. i think its a great shock for the spitfire.
  • 05-29-2014
    kinserk
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    i do. i think its a great shock for the spitfire.

    what tune of monarch u use/ is preffered?
  • 05-29-2014
    qbert2000
    mine is a mid mid tune
  • 05-29-2014
    ferguson65
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    I did it on my Rune and I ride with Ferguson65 who did his Spitfire. It did help for both of us, I am not sure how big he went with the spacer though.

    Guilty as charged. I think I put the middle (3rd largest of the 5) in. The Spitfire shock has no spacer in it from the factory. I'm around 240 ready to ride, and was running 280 in the shock prior to the spacer to make it not bottom. Now it's set to 245-250 and doesn't bottom. I'm happy I took it apart and did the spacers.
  • 05-29-2014
    threehats
    The KS-link has such effective anti-squat that I only bother with the climb switch on long tough climbs when my legs are wearing out.
  • 05-30-2014
    jlf.ski.bike.sail
    check out the review of my 2014 Banshee Spitfire!

    My 2014 Banshee Spitfire « NorthWestMax
  • 05-30-2014
    supercow
    Optimum performance and Fox 34 used in the same sentence... all credibility lost;)

    Found all 34s very lacking, with little mid stroke support

    The new 36 however looks very promising.
    Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
  • 05-31-2014
    Autocratic
    What's the idea behind using the 26" drop out with 27.5 wheels?

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  • 05-31-2014
    hssp
    Sv: 2013 Spitfire
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
    What's the idea behind using the 26" drop out with 27.5 wheels?

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    Short chainstays for snappy handling.
  • 05-31-2014
    NoStyle
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
    What's the idea behind using the 26" drop out with 27.5 wheels?

    Yes - 431 to 427mm CS is a little more agile vs the 10mm longer ones. Works well for tires up to 2.3. :thumbsup:
  • 05-31-2014
    Autocratic
    I just ordered my large frame so might have to try the shorter dropouts one day.

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  • 05-31-2014
    richulr
    Do they come with both sets of dropouts, or do you have to buy them separately?
  • 05-31-2014
    AssPav
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by richulr View Post
    Do they come with both sets of dropouts, or do you have to buy them separately?

    Separately.
  • 05-31-2014
    richulr
    that sucks. Looks like the dropout kits are $100. That's a lot to experiment and see if I can get a certain 27.5 in the 26 dropouts.

    Anyone that has done this have any impressions?
  • 05-31-2014
    AssPav
    I know it might be a pain but have a skim through the pages and you'll see people have run <2.4" 650b tires with the 26" dropouts just fine on all but the muddiest trails.
  • 05-31-2014
    richulr
    will do, thanks
  • 06-01-2014
    richulr
    The 2015 versions should be announced soon. Does anyone think there will be any changes at all?
  • 06-01-2014
    hssp
    Sv: 2013 Spitfire
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by richulr View Post
    The 2015 versions should be announced soon. Does anyone think there will be any changes at all?

    My guess will be new color for the painted version, and DB Inline shock option.

    My dream will be a stiff, burly, but lighter carbon rear triangle which will also be available as an upgrade for previous V2 owners.
  • 06-02-2014
    NoStyle
    I think so too - some new colors and some more shock-options. Apart from this no need to change a thing - the V2s are great as they are!

    Don´t know what to think about going carbon. If so, doesn´t full carbon makes more sense instead of rear- or front-triangle only?
    Plus, doesn´t it make more sense to revise geometry for full 650B-specific first, when time and sales will proof so?
  • 06-02-2014
    hssp
    Good points, NoStyle. Just think the rear is a bit on the heavy side, so to balance things, lightening the rear will make sense in my opinion.
  • 06-02-2014
    ultimateweevil
    So did my first big all day ride since I built the spitty up at the weekend and we had 4000ft of climbing, the climb switch is awesome as it's not a true lockout as the shock does move while riding but takes away any bob (not that there is really any without the cs on). It's great on those long draggy grind it up climbs but when it's short climbs there's no point in sticking it on to be honest because the shock is that good.

    My next upgrade needs to be a dropper post as it's a total pain in the backside stopping to adjust at every decent down or longish climb. Quick question is what length should I be going for on a medium frame with a 32" inside leg?
  • 06-04-2014
    Pinky
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ultimateweevil View Post
    My next upgrade needs to be a dropper post as it's a total pain in the backside stopping to adjust at every decent down or longish climb. Quick question is what length should I be going for on a medium frame with a 32" inside leg?

    I'm 32.5" inseam on a medium frame and am using a KS dropzone post 385mm long at minimum insertion. If I could , I would raise it 10 mm or so. I'd say go for something at least 400mm long.
  • 06-04-2014
    Bloober
    1 Attachment(s)
    Attachment 898667

    2 rides with this puppy now, very rad.
    I felt the large air can on the stock CTD rear shock was way to linear, reduced the volume by about 10cm^3 which seems to have stiffened up the end of the stroke.
    Very surprised how efficient the suspension is with pedaling, out of the saddle mashing does not make the shock bob at all.
    14.12kg, should be able to shed some grams with a few spec changes but I am not overly concerned with the weight.
  • 06-06-2014
    Autocratic
    1 Attachment(s)
    Frame came today. Woot!

    Fork options: RS Pike, Fox 36, or Mattoc Pro?

    Also, the dropout box. I know what the inserts and the actual dropouts are, but what are the two smaller pieces that attach to the dropouts?

    Attachment 899355
  • 06-06-2014
    AssPav
    I'm saving up for a Pike myself.

    Got a pic of the parts in question?
    Maybe the neutral chips?
  • 06-06-2014
    Autocratic
    Re: 2013 Spitfire
    L pieces that key into the dropouts



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  • 06-06-2014
    AssPav
    They would be spare mech hangers.
  • 06-06-2014
    Autocratic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by AssPav View Post
    They would be spare mech hangers.

    Got it.
  • 06-07-2014
    Autocratic
    When choosing a crankset, I know I need a threaded 73mm BB, but what Q size crank do I need to get?
  • 06-07-2014
    hssp
    168 if XX1
  • 06-08-2014
    Autocratic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hssp View Post
    168 if XX1

    Good, because that's what I ordered.
  • 06-08-2014
    Ucio
    Spity at my favorite kind of trail:)

    https://vimeo.com/97664208
  • 06-10-2014
    guswalls
    Dumb question for all of you CCDBA cs: do you set sag with the switch on or off?

    Also, I have a card with the base tune on it. On the cane creek website, there is a new base tune. Is the new tune for 2014 models only or does it apply to 2013 models.

    I have a leftover 2013. I had a great first ride on my 26" wheels. It is going to take me sometime to dial in all the settings, but am looking forward to it.
  • 06-10-2014
    supercow
    Dumb indeed :-)

    Without of course.

    Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
  • 06-11-2014
    builttoride
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by guswalls View Post
    Dumb question for all of you CCDBA cs: do you set sag with the switch on or off?

    Also, I have a card with the base tune on it. On the cane creek website, there is a new base tune. Is the new tune for 2014 models only or does it apply to 2013 models.

    I have a leftover 2013. I had a great first ride on my 26" wheels. It is going to take me sometime to dial in all the settings, but am looking forward to it.

    Theoretically the climb switch makes no difference at all when setting sag as it just increases damping.

    The newer base tune on the website might be a better starting point for you, but remember that base tune isn't the tune we recommend you run, it's just where we recommend you start tuning from.
  • 06-12-2014
    ultimateweevil
    Hi guys,

    Talking of the base tunes, I've set mine up with it but would like to make the bike a little bit more playful on the trail but not sure what's the best way to do this?
  • 06-12-2014
    supercow
    Various things you can do, depending on what you're trying to achieve?

    Running less sag, take off some High Speed Rebound / Low Speed Rebound etc.
    Cane Creek's "field set up guide" that you got with the frame explains it all very well.
  • 06-12-2014
    ultimateweevil
    Thanks I'll have a look at it, although if I run less sag wouldn't I be in danger of blowing through the travel on smaller hits?

    I already feel like I'm going through the travel too easily and had been thinking of putting a bit more pressure in the shock so maybe that plus a bit of adjustment to the high and low speed compression might be what I need to do.

    Also am I correct to think that if there isn't the right amount of sag set then it makes it harder to get the bike round tight technical stuff as the rear kind of wallows in it?
  • 06-12-2014
    supercow
    Less sag = more air pressure (run it harder in other words)

    If your rear is too soft, then it could tend to blow though the travel and feel dead / glued to the ground.

    The above is just a guess by the way, but sag is the very first place you should start. The CCDB manual says the same also. Follow their instructions from there on and note down what you like and don't like about each setting you change.

    The set-up needs some methodical and incremental changes, so to answer your question directly is hard.
  • 06-12-2014
    builttoride
    If sag is set right, and you feel you are blowing through travel too easily when compression damping is set up right, then try adding a volume reduction spacer. (2 minute easy job).
    This will make the shock more progressive which may suit your riding style better.
  • 06-12-2014
    ultimateweevil
    Just what I was thinking cheers, I'll try running it harder to begin with and see how I get on with that next time I'm out then look at fine tuning the settings once I'm happy with that. Don't want to change too many things at once I guess.
  • 06-12-2014
    supercow
    As a starting point, maybe run it a bit harder, and take a little bit of LSC and HSR off (anti-clockwise). That way it won't feel too harsh over the chatter, but retain a lively feel .
  • 06-12-2014
    guswalls
    I am assuming that the shocks come set to the base tune. So how does it feel when you make an adjustment.
    Does the high speed should click with each adjustment?
    How does the low speed feel when you make an adjustment?
  • 06-12-2014
    supercow
    Go on and adjust it and feel for yourself :D
    The High speed adjustments just have rotations (no clicks), where the Low speed adjustments have "clicks" (feels more like a notch)
  • 06-12-2014
    NoStyle
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ultimateweevil View Post
    Hi guys,

    Talking of the base tunes, I've set mine up with it but would like to make the bike a little bit more playful on the trail but not sure what's the best way to do this?

    To me, more playful means a slightly firmer and solid mid-stroke, plus more progression to prevent bottoming.

    I think there are several things you can experiment with:
    1.) Sag and air-pressure as it is, plus More LSC and LSR, maybe more HSC and HSR too. As much to the point the rear-end is going to be less subtle on small bumps = slightly bevor being overdamped.
    2.) Base-tune, or the current setup, but go with less sag = increase air-pressure.
    3.) Number 2 plus volume-reducer-spacer if you bottom-out on big hits.

    I personally would go the "more air-pressure-route" instead of "more damping", as it keeps the sensitivity and the lively feel. There´s a difference between a "firm" (always active) and a "harsh" (possibly unsensitive while overdamped) suspension.
  • 06-12-2014
    ultimateweevil
    Thanks guys, I think I'll go with the more pressure and leave the base tune first and see how that goes. Will report back on how I get on once I've been out at the weekend
  • 06-12-2014
    kinserk
    Need help. I feel some hollow play with clunking noise in my spitfire, while pedaling under load, especialy while standing. I've been narrowing down the sources of this play and came to the bearings ( maybe)?. I've removed cranks, BB even shock and there was this hollow play when i held the bike for seat tube and handlebar and pushed it with foot at the BB area. It is not realy free play, can't notice it using only hands. But when i put some real side to side pressure on the BB, I can feel this, as if something would shift in load direction and then I can go on the other side of bike and do it again in other direction. Is it possible that this is bearring issue? or should i look elsewhere? And which bearrings should i buy for spitfire v2?
  • 06-12-2014
    builttoride
    Have you checked that all the pivot and dropout bolts are tightened to torque?
  • 06-12-2014
    kinserk
    Ye i checked all the bolts. As i've said i'm not 100% this play or shift is coming from bearrings, as i can only feel it when under load, while pedaling or using my both hands (seat and handlebar) and foot on BB. IS it even possible to have side to side play on pivots?
  • 06-12-2014
    builttoride
    Side to side play shouldn't be possible in the pivots. This could only happen if they are not tightened properly, the bearings are not fully pressed in, or there is a tolerance issue. If tightened properly then the link presses on the inner race of the bearings which in turn is clamped by the axle.

    Each frame is individually checked by Jay at the factory before it is boxed up, so I'd be surprised if there was an issue. Are you certain that this is coming from the frame, and not say the rear wheel or headset or something?
  • 06-12-2014
    kinserk
    I will do the all around check again. It is realy hard to pinpoint the source, because this fault is not so obvious. I've checked for every possible loose bolt on the bike so far, each individual part of the bike doesnt have play on its own. And can't realy check for play when bike is on bike stand, because i have to put some side to side forces to the bike, to feel this. I first noticed this clunk when i was pedaling this realy steep climb. It's realy hard for me to describe, but I could feel it when standing with each pedal stroke at the point when I push the peddal down and pull the bike up. My first thought was headset, but i checked that, by holding front brake down and there was no play. Maybe it is headset, but play only ocurs under lots of load. I dont know. :D
  • 06-12-2014
    supercow
    What fork are you running kinserk?

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  • 06-12-2014
    kinserk
    Im running PIKE RC3 150 650b.
  • 06-12-2014
    builttoride
    Just to completely eliminate the pivots as a source, I'd recommend you disassemble them individually, check them, grease them, reassemble and tighten to torque. It's a pretty easy job (should take 15-20mins) and is worth doing from time to time anyway to ensure pivots are clean, greased and opperating properly. You can see an exploded diagram of the assembly on the spitfire page of our website for your referance.
  • 06-12-2014
    babyz
    1 Attachment(s)
    This is my first time cruising the Banshee forums here, but let me say its awesome to be a part of the community of Spitfire owners - the thing rips.
    Attachment 900628
    I am struggling a bit with getting the CCDBA tuned 100%, and I could use some advice.

    Right now, I'm running what is essentially the base tune, less a quarter turn of HSC as I have been struggling to get full travel out of the bike. I'm not running any volume spacers, but I still can't really get the bike to retain a firm midstroke while still using its full travel. Sag is dead on 15mm as suggested, and the beginning stroke feels great, but the shock seems to plow through the midstroke a bit and then really ramp up in the last 1/4 of the travel.

    Anyone want to share their CCDBA tunes? The Cane Creek Lounge seems to be severely lacking in published user tunes...
  • 06-12-2014
    hssp
    Sv: 2013 Spitfire
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kinserk View Post
    Im running PIKE RC3 150 650b.

    My PIKE rattles a bit i the top, giving a hollow sound. This is due to the way the pos and neg chambers are equalized.

    I also had some problems with rear triangle play, which came from pivot bolts getting loose. They were tightened to torque, but still came loose. Some Loctite 243 on the threads and they are better.
  • 06-13-2014
    builttoride
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by babyz View Post
    This is my first time cruising the Banshee forums here, but let me say its awesome to be a part of the community of Spitfire owners - the thing rips.
    Attachment 900628
    I am struggling a bit with getting the CCDBA tuned 100%, and I could use some advice.

    Right now, I'm running what is essentially the base tune, less a quarter turn of HSC as I have been struggling to get full travel out of the bike. I'm not running any volume spacers, but I still can't really get the bike to retain a firm midstroke while still using its full travel. Sag is dead on 15mm as suggested, and the beginning stroke feels great, but the shock seems to plow through the midstroke a bit and then really ramp up in the last 1/4 of the travel.

    Anyone want to share their CCDBA tunes? The Cane Creek Lounge seems to be severely lacking in published user tunes...

    When are you noticing the lack of midstroke support? is it when pedaling? Cornering? pumping through trail section? Landing drops etc? Or at other times?
  • 06-13-2014
    kinserk
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Just to completely eliminate the pivots as a source, I'd recommend you disassemble them individually, check them, grease them, reassemble and tighten to torque. It's a pretty easy job (should take 15-20mins) and is worth doing from time to time anyway to ensure pivots are clean, greased and opperating properly. You can see an exploded diagram of the assembly on the spitfire page of our website for your referance.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hssp View Post
    My PIKE rattles a bit i the top, giving a hollow sound. This is due to the way the pos and neg chambers are equalized.

    I also had some problems with rear triangle play, which came from pivot bolts getting loose. They were tightened to torque, but still came loose. Some Loctite 243 on the threads and they are better.

    Yes I'm well familiar with this neg/pos feeling with PIKE. This wasn't the issue tho. I've found the source in front upper pivot. But it wasn't anything wrong apart from that, that i've been riding the bike hard in wet, muddy and dusty conditions for the last 2 months, with 2 enduro races and very little to zero maintainance to the pivot points. So I've disasembled the frame and notice a bit of play in front upper pivot when untighten the nut just alittle bit. It was that exact same sound I was looking for. When I've unthreaded the nut, the axle wouldnt go out, it seized to the bearrings ( due to conditions and mostly my negligence). So I've put some spray to it and poped it out with plastic stick and hammer. When i asembled everything back (well cleaned and greased), the play/ shift/ clunk was gone. Gone for a ride this morning and didn't notice any issue. So yeah. It was a pivot/ axle issue, but the fault was mine.
    Oh and I've found out I need to replace the bearrings, they are not buttery smooth anymore. If someone could give me the specifications or dimension of bearrings I need to get?
  • 06-13-2014
    NoStyle
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    When are you noticing the lack of midstroke support? is it when pedaling? Cornering? pumping through trail section? Landing drops etc? Or at other times?

    Really curious about this too, as you can read this relatively often for Rune or Spitfire on several boards???
    With a regular CCDB there´s plenty of midstroke-support, even with 30% sag. Possibly this CCDB has a more progressive nature than the CCDB VX/CS-ones? Maybe it helps to let out all air, pump the shock several times and fill-in air again, as there might be low pressure in the negative air chamber?
  • 06-13-2014
    builttoride
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kinserk View Post
    Yes I'm well familiar with this neg/pos feeling with PIKE. This wasn't the issue tho. I've found the source in front upper pivot. But it wasn't anything wrong apart from that, that i've been riding the bike hard in wet, muddy and dusty conditions for the last 2 months, with 2 enduro races and very little to zero maintainance to the pivot points. So I've disasembled the frame and notice a bit of play in front upper pivot when untighten the nut just alittle bit. It was that exact same sound I was looking for. When I've unthreaded the nut, the axle wouldnt go out, it seized to the bearrings ( due to conditions and mostly my negligence). So I've put some spray to it and poped it out with plastic stick and hammer. When i asembled everything back (well cleaned and greased), the play/ shift/ clunk was gone. Gone for a ride this morning and didn't notice any issue. So yeah. It was a pivot/ axle issue, but the fault was mine.
    Oh and I've found out I need to replace the bearrings, they are not buttery smooth anymore. If someone could give me the specifications or dimension of bearrings I need to get?

    You can find all bearing numbers on our website (FAQ section of frame page)
  • 06-13-2014
    LyNx
    Keith, do you recommend only normal raced bearings, full/Maxx compliment bearings or angular contact bearings, which works best?
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    You can find all bearing numbers on our website (FAQ section of frame page)

  • 06-13-2014
    builttoride
    In our testing they max compliment bearings did not last any longer than regular high quality bearings. The static and dynamic loads are well within the range of regualr bearings.
  • 06-13-2014
    qbert2000
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kinserk View Post
    Yes I'm well familiar with this neg/pos feeling with PIKE. This wasn't the issue tho. I've found the source in front upper pivot. But it wasn't anything wrong apart from that, that i've been riding the bike hard in wet, muddy and dusty conditions for the last 2 months, with 2 enduro races and very little to zero maintainance to the pivot points. So I've disasembled the frame and notice a bit of play in front upper pivot when untighten the nut just alittle bit. It was that exact same sound I was looking for. When I've unthreaded the nut, the axle wouldnt go out, it seized to the bearrings ( due to conditions and mostly my negligence). So I've put some spray to it and poped it out with plastic stick and hammer. When i asembled everything back (well cleaned and greased), the play/ shift/ clunk was gone. Gone for a ride this morning and didn't notice any issue. So yeah. It was a pivot/ axle issue, but the fault was mine.
    Oh and I've found out I need to replace the bearrings, they are not buttery smooth anymore. If someone could give me the specifications or dimension of bearrings I need to get?

    4 of 6001 2rs bearings and 4 of 608 2rs bearings

    6001 LLU MAX
    DIMENSIONS .............................................. 12mm x 28mm x 8mm
    SEALS .................................................. .. Dual-lip medium/high contact
    BALL MATERIAL .................................................. .... Chromium Steel
    BALL GRADE .................................................. .............................. 10
    RACES .................................................. .................. Chromium Steel
    APPLICATION .................................................. .... Suspension Pivots
    GREASE ................................. Rock 'n' Roll Super-Web (in most cases)


    608 LLB MAX
    DIMENSIONS ................................................ 8mm x 22mm x 7mm
    SEALS .................................................. .. Dual-lip medium/high contact
    BALL MATERIAL .................................................. .... Chromium Steel
    BALL GRADE .................................................. .............................. 10
    RACES .................................................. .................. Chromium Steel
    APPLICATION .................................................. .... Suspension Pivots
    GREASE ................................. Rock 'n' Roll Super-Web (in most cases)

    ENDURO MAX BEARINGS: ULTIMATE SUSPENSION PIVOT BEARINGS!

    or a bearing from another manufacturer meeting the dimensions listed
  • 06-13-2014
    LyNx
    How about the angular contact ones, would they work or is the torque for the pivots too much pre-load for them?

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    In our testing they max compliment bearings did not last any longer than regular high quality bearings. The static and dynamic loads are well within the range of regualr bearings.

  • 06-14-2014
    builttoride
    I don't recommend angular contact bearings, the system is not designed around them.
  • 06-16-2014
    sui
    My New Spity V2
    I took this out for it's first ride on Saturday to Bike Park Wales (UK for those not on these fair shores)..... Well that was a baptism of fire..

    I would like to say thank you to Banshee and CaneCreek for making a bike that's a lot of fun to ride and a revelation in how good suspension design can work. I came from an old (2005) GSpot which "chattered" like crazy with a DHX5 on, the Spity felt like a Rolls Royce in comparison. Fantastic weight balance and predictable! I need to get used to the lower BB height, but that's no biggy. Cheers Chaps

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    one questioned I did have, is the CCDBCS supposed to make a hollow air noise, a bit like those wind instruments you used to play at school?
  • 06-16-2014
    babyz
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    When are you noticing the lack of midstroke support? is it when pedaling? Cornering? pumping through trail section? Landing drops etc? Or at other times?

    Primarily when pumping through sections of trail.
  • 06-16-2014
    builttoride
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by babyz View Post
    Primarily when pumping through sections of trail.

    Increase your low speed compression damping. It will make the bike feel much more immediate and result in less dive when pumping and cornering... will also make it a little more efficienct when pedaling.
  • 06-18-2014
    Dingleberry88
    What length stealth reverbs is everyone running? Heard there might be clearance issues with the 420mm...
  • 06-18-2014
    radnark
    Saw some chatter about people possibly drilling their frames/or having someone drill the frames to route a stealth post, anybody got pics?
  • 06-18-2014
    steeeze
    It will void your warranty I believe.