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Thread: 2013 Spitfire

  1. #501
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Their shipment is leaving the factory tomorrow... should be through UK customs by end of the month.
    aahha this is a good news for me!!
    I had to send to Pat some stuff and now, my bike is out of order...
    hope he will have few thing to help me...
    AisaBike
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  2. #502
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCBigHit View Post
    Put the chain on without closing it. Make sure the chain is in the largest chainring and largest cog. Pull the chain tight so that your derailleur hanger is pulled fairly far forward--because you have short cage, you probably need it on the tight side in your large gear so that it will still have enough tension when you're in the small cog. If in doubt leave it a little longer as you can always shorten it later. I usually do this so the two ends are overlapping beneath the chainstay. You should be able to see how much chain you need. Now pop out the extra links and close it with the powerlink (or pin if you're using shimano chain).
    You left out the part about checking the chain length while cycling the rear suspension. Remove the rear shock, and move the suspension to it's fully compressed position while keeping an eye on the derailleur cage tension. I negelected to do this on my V1 Spitfire and it sheared a derailleur hanger the first ride. I think the V2 has less chain growth, but it is still important to check the chain length throughout the suspension travel.

  3. #503
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    Thanks for the help with the chain, I had read about checking the length with the suspension compressed last night. I just removed one link at a time till I got it right.

    Finished the bike today and went for a wee spin even in the snow I can tell this is gonna be a lot of fun. The one time I don't want snow and it comes, we normally have rain in Scotland not snow!

    2013 Spitfire-image.jpg

    2013 Spitfire-image.jpg

    2013 Spitfire-image.jpg

  4. #504
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    12x142 and brake install issue...

    Is anyone using the 12x142 and had success in mounting the newer Xt brakes? I'm using a 160mm in the rear. I installed the adapter (SM-RA-R160), but when I try to mount the brake caliper, the adapter doesn't seem to be wide enough. Do I need a different adapter? This is frustrating as all get out....

    Hopefully the photo will be of some use.

    Thanks
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Spitfire-camerazoom-20130205181958854.jpg  


  5. #505
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    Some washers (or chainring spacers) between the frame and adapter should fix that..

  6. #506
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    Known issue

    See this link starting at post #12 Prime/Rune Dropouts/Hangers

    I would like to see a re-design of the dropouts so they have the relief built in like most other (all?) 142 drops
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  7. #507
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    Just got done reading the thread above, and it's exactly what I'm going through with the 650b 12x142 drops. I should be able to install the brake caliper(with adapter) and derailleur, without having to do a lot of shimming. IS tabs too far to the left. Derailleur hanger too far to the right.

    Keith, please speak to this. At this point, I'd gladly pay $50 to get drops that accommodate my components. I thought, by now, 12x142 would be a fairly mature standard.

  8. #508
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    Here is my Spitfire. Assuming being one of the first received the new V2 Frames in early December 2012 things unfortunately went the long-term-way. But finally here it is, in itīs first build-up:

    2013 Spitfire-spitfire41.jpg
    2013 Spitfire-spitfire51.jpg

    Went for a -1 Deg Angleset and Flip-Chips in neutral Setting for first Rides, resulting in a nicely 65,5 Deg HA and a highly demanded 74 Deg SA. Cable-Routing of the Front-Derailleur is done on the Downtube, for a slightly cleaner look. I want to concentrate on Suspension Setup first and check out all the Geometry-Settings later, where I have the possibility to slacken out to a 64,5 HA with lowest Chips and -1,5 Deg Angleset.

    CCDB-Air and 650B Custom-Wheelset are already ordered and should arrive next very few weeks.

    First Riding-Impression is:
    Weight of 14,8 kg is:
    Honestly: This Weight is contributed to the heavy Wheelset (about 2200 Gramms) and 2.4 Highroller II Tires. Works pretty well for gnarly Park Riding Days. The upcoming 650B Wheelset is around 1700 Gramms with Hans Dampf 2.25 for Allday-Trailriding and should bring the Weight down to closely 14 kg, maybe below with some Luck.
    But: Weight is not that important to me, plus I weight 90,x kg full geared. So the Bike has to be durable and long-lasting as the main Priority.


    Quote Originally Posted by RialbSelur View Post
    Is anyone using the 12x142 and had success in mounting the newer Xt brakes? I'm using a 160mm in the rear. I installed the adapter (SM-RA-R160), but when I try to mount the brake caliper, the adapter doesn't seem to be wide enough. Do I need a different adapter? This is frustrating as all get out....
    Hopefully the photo will be of some use ...
    I have had the same Issue with both 26 and 650B 142x12 Dropouts. A roughly 1 mm Spacer between IS-2000 and PM-Adapter solved the Problem.
    But: Maybe Banshee should check back if there might be some Tolerance-Issue due to the IS-Standard-Mount. I have heard from a german Prime-Rider that he has had to space-out 3 mm to get the rear Brake installed properly. Iīm not sure if this is how Banshee likes it to have, because apart from that my Frame is in superb manufacturing Quality.

  9. #509
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    No Style bike is looking good but dam, you like a slack bike. Our riding must be polar opposites as I'd build the Spitty high and steep with a HA approaching 67.5-68 degrees. Here it's all about climbing up and over gnarly little technical climbs littered with rocks and roots. What fork you got there? Magura? How's that back clearance looking with the 26" drops for 650 tires? Thinking I might not even order the 650 dropouts. 32.6lbs is, um, a little portly. Amazing the distributors bike was 27.1lbs and how easily it can go to 32+
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  10. #510
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    Just wanted to also add that I added a 1mm spacer as well for my 26 in brake mounts. I wasn't aware there was a derailluer mounting issue as well.

  11. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    No Style bike is looking good but dam, you like a slack bike. Our riding must be polar opposites as I'd build the Spitty high and steep with a HA approaching 67.5-68 degrees. Here it's all about climbing up and over gnarly little technical climbs littered with rocks and roots. What fork you got there? Magura? How's that back clearance looking with the 26" drops for 650 tires? Thinking I might not even order the 650 dropouts. 32.6lbs is, um, a little portly. Amazing the distributors bike was 27.1lbs and how easily it can go to 32+
    I really wanna see the scale shot from that 27 pounder. With full xtr/carbon everything build mine was 29. And unless you really care about the slightly higher BB, or running 2.4 or larger tires in the back, then 650s on the 26 inch dropouts is perfectly fine.

  12. #512
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dlongb13 View Post
    I really wanna see the scale shot from that 27 pounder. With full xtr/carbon everything build mine was 29. And unless you really care about the slightly higher BB, or running 2.4 or larger tires in the back, then 650s on the 26 inch dropouts is perfectly fine.
    Nice bikes guys. I've been watching this thread closely, and am 95% set on getting a new XL spitty. I'll definitely post it here if I do!

    To your point above Dlong, The difference to the 27 pounder is likely made up largely because he has a Fox 32 (to your 34), he has a carbon seatpost (to your dropper), he has a Fox rear shock (to your CCDBair), and that his wheels and tires are lighter. My guess, however, is that yours is way funner to ride ;o)

  13. #513
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    Yeah my 29 was with a fox ctd. Its the dropper that really hurts but man I can't ride without one anymore.

  14. #514
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    Here's the build list for that 27 pounder. Light wheels for sure with 28 spoke hubs/rims (yeah, I counted). Guess it's possible but I would also want a dropper post and my custom built 650B wheels will be heavier. I also plan on a 32 stanchion fork, std. CTD shock, XX1 and carbon bars.

    Rear Derailleur, Triggers, Brakes, Chain and Cassette: Shimano XTR
    Front Derailleur: Shimano XT
    Fork Fox 32 Float RLC
    Wheelset: DT 240 mit XM450TL Felgen und Messerspeichen
    Handlebars: Syntace Vector Carbon 740mm
    Stem: Syntace F109 60mm
    Headset: Pivot
    Handles: Pivot
    Seatpost: P6 carbon hiflex
    Saddle: Selle Italia SLR
    Tires: Kenda Nevegal
    Tubes: Kenda
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  15. #515
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    I only weigh 170lb and I ride light and I wouldn't even think of running a 32 on this bike. So flexy.

  16. #516
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    Hi guys, long time dweller, first time poster!

    I've been searching for quite some time for a bike that ticks all the boxes and i think the Rune or Spitfire V2 may be it. To give you a bit of an idea of what kind of rider i am, i'm primarily a downhill racer (rode expert in 2009) and my style of riding is smooth - i like to hop obstacles and rather enjoy hitting jumps. My question is, if i was going to have one bike and one bike only, should it be the Spitfire or the Rune? I ride a lot of trail centers but also a fair amount of DH - usually hit the alps once a year. Could the Spitfire handle it or would the Rune be better? There certainly doesn't seem to be much difference in terms of weight between the two.... I currently ride a Trek EX8 with 36's, its ok for most stuff but i'd be afraid to smash out any DH's on it!

    Any help would be much appreciated

  17. #517
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    If it's a one bike only situation and you are going to be doing DH, I'd get the rune. I think of the spitfire as a DHer's trailbike, and while I've done a lot of aggressive, fast, rough riding on mine, I do have a DH bike for real DH. If I were in your shoes trying to do it all with one bike, I'd go rune and maybe have 2 wheelsets or at least 2 sets of tires.

  18. #518
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    Cheers NC, the spare wheelset thing is exactly what i was planning to do...

  19. #519
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    No Style bike is looking good but dam, you like a slack bike. Our riding must be polar opposites as I'd build the Spitty high and steep with a HA approaching 67.5-68 degrees. Here it's all about climbing up and over gnarly little technical climbs littered with rocks and roots. What fork you got there? Magura? How's that back clearance looking with the 26" drops for 650 tires? Thinking I might not even order the 650 dropouts. 32.6lbs is, um, a little portly. Amazing the distributors bike was 27.1lbs and how easily it can go to 32+
    Thank you!
    My Background is more Downhill/Freeride in my earlier Days, so Iīm used to the slack HAs for quite some time now. My Wildcard had an HA of somewhere between 65 and 66 Degrees via -1,5 Deg Angleset, which I really like and steepened the SA, too. Of course this is personal Preference, but with the 5- Year Wildcard-Experience (it had very similiar Angles) I know relatively clear what I want. Seeing the Bike as a whole itīs not only about slackness. Geometries like the V2-Banshees only work together with the low BBs, longer Reach-Numbers and steep Seatangles. More Non-Aggressive-Geometries like Nomads or Coverts would ride very different if they got slacken out to 65 Deg HAs alone. I havenīt try it yet, but going steeper or technical Uphills shouldnīt be a big Problem - they were not with the Wildcard, except my Fitness-Level .

    But: All has to be proven on the Trails!!! My given Geometry is my Dream-Geo, like a lightish travel-reduced Rune, at least theoretical on Paper. Reality should give me the answers if my Root does work in all Conditions, or not. If not I will install the -0,5 Deg and be happy. The possible superslack Setting is simply the very radical end, but by far not for every Purpose!

    The Fork is a BOS Deville (without TRC), Air, 160 mm Travel, 34er Stanchions and 20 mm Axle, weight around 2000 Gramms. The Deville is not 650B-specific, but offers plenty of Clearance and enough for Hans Dampf 2.35, which is a big Volume Tire - as close as the Highroller II 2.4!

    With the 26-Dropouts there is so much Clearance everywhere. User "ptd" runs 2.35er Hans Dampf with the 650B Dropouts in his Black-Ano-Rune. Please check the Rune-Built-Thread - he took some concrete measurements 1 or 2 Weeks ago. These Numbers maybe could help with your Decision buying or not buying the Dropouts!

  20. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    I would like to see a re-design of the dropouts so they have the relief built in like most other (all?) 142 drops
    Same here. The relief is part of the Syntace X-12 design and is necessary for proper brake caliper/derailleur spacing.

  21. #521
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    Very nice NS with pretty much same geo as I am running with my Rune with 160 fork and neutral chips for 65.5 deg front, 74 deg rear and 13.45" BB with low rims (Stans Flow EX on 2.3 tires). I very much like this geo and set-up for aggro trail/hardy AM riding. Felt much better to me than in the slacker setting, which resulted in too much of a rear wheel bias when climbing and even felt slower on the pedally descents. For some reason the bike feels faster and more lively and responsive in the neutral setting for me as well (better jumper and cornering). For bike park or shuttling with no/minimal pedalling, imagine the slacker setting to be pretty good though.

    Cheers on the new bike, it's a treat!
    Ride On!

  22. #522
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    Quote Originally Posted by RialbSelur View Post
    Just got done reading the thread above, and it's exactly what I'm going through with the 650b 12x142 drops. I should be able to install the brake caliper(with adapter) and derailleur, without having to do a lot of shimming. IS tabs too far to the left. Derailleur hanger too far to the right.

    Keith, please speak to this. At this point, I'd gladly pay $50 to get drops that accommodate my components. I thought, by now, 12x142 would be a fairly mature standard.
    How off is the Derailleur mount? I am wondering if this is going to put too much stress on an XX1 RD when its in the 42 T, also, wondering about throwing off the chain line when using a chain guide.

  23. #523
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    I'm going to hold off in commenting about the derailleur, and it's spacing. I'm not wonderfully proficient, when it comes to derailleur adjustment. So, I'll get somebody who knows what their talking about to make a proper assessment.

  24. #524
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    Quote Originally Posted by RialbSelur View Post
    I thought, by now, 12x142 would be a fairly mature standard.
    obviously not as mature as 135, to which my brakes and drl mounted just fine :P

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    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    obviously not as mature as 135, to which my brakes and drl mounted just fine :P
    Same here no problems with 135 dropouts

  26. #526
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    Anyone using the 12x135 dropouts?

    I would assume no issues with those and since my Hadley is currently set up that way there is no reason to go to the 142's.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  27. #527
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    Nice bikes guys! To those running 650B wheels on the spitty... how are they feeling? Are they worth it over the 26 option?? Any comments would be great!

  28. #528
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    Anyone using the 12x135 dropouts?

    I would assume no issues with those and since my Hadley is currently set up that way there is no reason to go to the 142's.
    They dont make a 12x135 option

    They make 142x12, 135x10 and 150x12.

  29. #529
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    Quote Originally Posted by RialbSelur View Post
    I'm going to hold off in commenting about the derailleur, and it's spacing. I'm not wonderfully proficient, when it comes to derailleur adjustment. So, I'll get somebody who knows what their talking about to make a proper assessment.
    I can confirm that an old style Shimano 9 speed derailleur will NOT work with the 142x12 dropouts (and probably wont work with the 135x10).

    Besides the fact that the hi/low adjustment does not go far enough (you wont be able to use the largest cog) the actual body of the derailleur hits the chain stay when in the slack setting limiting the movement. It skipped under power.

    I have moved to a 10sp shadow derailleur and no problems, I can get the full cluster range with no interference and no skipping under power. I had the shim over the brake a few mm.

  30. #530
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    I'm looking at a Spitfire for my next bike. Really leaning towards a 650b build with Fox 34 @150mm. Can anyone speak to haw the suspension reacts during braking? I've gotten really used to a bike whose suspension doesn't stiffen up during braking efforts and was just wondering how the Spitfire behaves.

  31. #531
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    Quote Originally Posted by RialbSelur View Post
    Just got done reading the thread above, and it's exactly what I'm going through with the 650b 12x142 drops. I should be able to install the brake caliper(with adapter) and derailleur, without having to do a lot of shimming. IS tabs too far to the left. Derailleur hanger too far to the right.

    Keith, please speak to this. At this point, I'd gladly pay $50 to get drops that accommodate my components. I thought, by now, 12x142 would be a fairly mature standard.
    Hmmm ... I had the same "Issue", if it is one (!!!), on both 26 and 650B x 142 Dropouts. A washer of max. 1 mm at each Bolt, between the IS-2000-Tabs and PM-Adapter, and the Brake-Caliper was centered perfectly.

    But I have to say that I never needed to use Spacers for the IS-2000 with PM before. Maybe Banshee should check if the Dropouts are within the Tolerance, or are not maschined correct.
    My Rear Derailleur is a Shimano XT Shadow 9 Speed and there were no Issues at all to get proper Adjustment!

    My little bigger Concern are the missing Reliefs/Threads for the 142 x 12 Standard. This is my first Experience with Bolt-Thru-Axles in the Rear. Remove/Build-in the Rear Wheel is a bit laborious without them. It would be nice to have them in the Dropouts as Support and I would likely pay an Upcharge if they are more costy to produce.

    I donīt think 142 x 12 is a matured Standard at all. Iīm not sure if I should believe the Marketing-Speach of being stiffer, lighter bla bla. In my honest Opinion the one and only Benefit this Standard has is easier Rear-Wheel Installment, just because of this drilled out Reliefs/Threads only. Without them this Axle-Width is somehow pointless and you could go back to the tried and trusty 135 x 12 and save money for additional Axle-Adapters for your old Hubs.

  32. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Hmmm ... I had the same "Issue", if it is one (!!!), on both 26 and 650B x 142 Dropouts. A washer of max. 1 mm at each Bolt, between the IS-2000-Tabs and PM-Adapter, and the Brake-Caliper was centered perfectly.

    But I have to say that I never needed to use Spacers for the IS-2000 with PM before. Maybe Banshee should check if the Dropouts are within the Tolerance, or are not maschined correct.
    My Rear Derailleur is a Shimano XT Shadow 9 Speed and there were no Issues at all to get proper Adjustment!

    My little bigger Concern are the missing Reliefs/Threads for the 142 x 12 Standard. This is my first Experience with Bolt-Thru-Axles in the Rear. Remove/Build-in the Rear Wheel is a bit laborious without them. It would be nice to have them in the Dropouts as Support and I would likely pay an Upcharge if they are more costy to produce.

    I donīt think 142 x 12 is a matured Standard at all. Iīm not sure if I should believe the Marketing-Speach of being stiffer, lighter bla bla. In my honest Opinion the one and only Benefit this Standard has is easier Rear-Wheel Installment, just because of this drilled out Reliefs/Threads only. Without them this Axle-Width is somehow pointless and you could go back to the tried and trusty 135 x 12 and save money for additional Axle-Adapters for your old Hubs.
    X-12 (142x12) is a mature and well documented standard. There isn't another manufacturer I know of that has not followed the design spec and included the 3.5mm per side relief in the dropouts. If those are omitted, then the brake mount and derailleur hanger are going to be 3.5mm out of spec on each side - the fact that you are able to get the caliper positioned via washers and the derailleur adjusted at the extreme end of it's adjustment range doesn't sit well with me. I'm not going to claim any huge advantage over 135x12 other than convenience, but the advantages over a 135x10 qr or thru-bolt are pretty obvious.

  33. #533
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    I've got experiences with another bike brand with the 142 standard and also had to shim the brakes. Not a big deal at all (I didn't think twice about it until I read this thread) but I wonder if the general advised specs are off somewhere...
    I also have noted that Hope hubs are also a bit of an issue in this regard, the disc mounts on the hub are about 1 - 1.5 mm further in towards the wheel center than all the other hubs I've used.

  34. #534
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy View Post
    X-12 (142x12) is a mature and well documented standard. There isn't another manufacturer I know of that has not followed the design spec and included the 3.5mm per side relief in the dropouts. If those are omitted, then the brake mount and derailleur hanger are going to be 3.5mm out of spec on each side - the fact that you are able to get the caliper positioned via washers and the derailleur adjusted at the extreme end of it's adjustment range doesn't sit well with me. I'm not going to claim any huge advantage over 135x12 other than convenience, but the advantages over a 135x10 qr or thru-bolt are pretty obvious.


    Not exactly true with the desgn of Banshees drop outs, the width is still the same for the hub, the dropout is just missing the extra material on the inside of the dropout to act as a stop.

  35. #535
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinS View Post
    Not exactly true with the desgn of Banshees drop outs, the width is still the same for the hub, the dropout is just missing the extra material on the inside of the dropout to act as a stop.
    Sure, the inside spacing on the dropouts is 142mm, I get that. The issue is that the inside edge of the brake mount and derailleur hanger are on that same plane when they should be inboard of the hub ends by 3.5mm on each side - which would locate them where they would be on a 135mm dropout. This is simple stuff.

  36. #536
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    It would definitely be an issue if the drop-outs were post-mount. But they aren't...

    As it is, derailleur limit screws and 3.5mm spacers between the drop-out and caliper adapter would line everything up correctly.

    I agree it's not ideal, but nothing a competent mechanic couldn't sort out quickly. I do agree though, would be good if Keith revised the design.

  37. #537
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy View Post
    Sure, the inside spacing on the dropouts is 142mm, I get that. The issue is that the inside edge of the brake mount and derailleur hanger are on that same plane when they should be inboard of the hub ends by 3.5mm on each side - which would locate them where they would be on a 135mm dropout. This is simple stuff.
    Iīm not sure at all, but have not every Detail of X-12 in Mind ...
    My experience was like this:
    My Mechanic took the Derailleur off the Wildcard (with 135x10 Axle), screwed it in the Spitfire and it fits! Only very slightly adjustments on the Trigger were done to get proper Shifting. The Screws that limits the Derailleurs movement were not touched at all!!!
    As mentioned - the Brake only needed a simple average thin Washer and was ready to go.

    As far as I know the X-12-Standard is nothing more but being 135 x12 Bolt-Thru plus adding 3,5 mm additional Axle-Width per Side, build as Threads to give more Fix or Path to easier install the Wheel. Just the Same with Forks, but in opposite they only have around 1 mm Threads inside the regular Axle-Width. The X-12 Inside-Spacing of IS-2000 or Derailleur-Hanger should be the same as 135 x 12, isnīt it this way??? Otherwise the Mechanic had to completely readjust the Derailleur, or had to put 3,5 mm Spacers to fix the Brake - both was not the Case!

    The Fact that only small Spacers were required for the Brake seems to me just a Tolerance-Issue only. Am I wrong ???

  38. #538
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Iīm not sure at all, but have not every Detail of X-12 in Mind ...
    My experience was like this:
    My Mechanic took the Derailleur off the Wildcard (with 135x10 Axle), screwed it in the Spitfire and it fits! Only very slightly adjustments on the Trigger were done to get proper Shifting. The Screws that limits the Derailleurs movement were not touched at all!!!
    As mentioned - the Brake only needed a simple average thin Washer and was ready to go.

    As far as I know the X-12-Standard is nothing more but being 135 x12 Bolt-Thru plus adding 3,5 mm additional Axle-Width per Side, build as Threads to give more Fix or Path to easier install the Wheel. Just the Same with Forks, but in opposite they only have around 1 mm Threads inside the regular Axle-Width. The X-12 Inside-Spacing of IS-2000 or Derailleur-Hanger should be the same as 135 x 12, isnīt it this way??? Otherwise the Mechanic had to completely readjust the Derailleur, or had to put 3,5 mm Spacers to fix the Brake - both was not the Case!

    The Fact that only small Spacers were required for the Brake seems to me just a Tolerance-Issue only. Am I wrong ???
    Ehhhhrrrrrr ... to make Confusion complete ?!?!?

    I have read the complete Prime/Rune Dropouts/Hangers-Thread.

    - After that I called my Mechanic, just to check back and not prove myself a liar - he has confirmed to me definitely from his memory that a readjustment of the Derailleur was NOT necessary?! I have checked his work and all I can see is a perfect adjusted Derailleur for every Gear of the Cassette, with crisp and tight shifting as a Result. How could this be possible? Due to the Thread above and coming from a 135 x 10 the Derailleur must be 3,5 mm offset, but isnīt? I donīt get it ... ?!?

    - User jncarpenter (Threadstarter) measured the IS-Brakemount being 3,5 mm outboard with his Set of Dropouts. Same with the Derailleur-Hanger. My Postmount only required a washer around 1 mm of thickness and the Brake-Caliper was fine. The Bolts look like they are relatively centered in their Caliper Eyelets. I donīt get it again. Especially while the IS-2000 Mount is a plane Surface with the Axle (inner Side of the Dropout) ... ?!?

  39. #539
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    To be honest. I don't remember having a bike which did not require shims to properely set up a brake caliper. If one is really desperate to avoid shimming, then IS QR20 _front_ adapters are thicker by about 3mm then normal ones. Just remember to subtract 20mm from disc size. Ie - 203mm front adaptor is 180 rear adaptor( 180 front is 160 rear, 160 front is 140 rear ).

    Besides - getting a 142mm drops on a bike that is capable of 150 is kind of foolish anyway

    As for mech hanger. FSR bikes were notorious for klunking deraileurs on traditional shimano derailleurs. I remember my Enduro SL to be a klack-fest on rooty trails with LX rear mech ( with long cage as well, to make matters worse ). There was also a problem with adjusting high gears on old shimano mechs and Enduro SL - the 11t cog required alot of B-tension adjustment, otherwise the cage hit the frame and auto-shifted to next gear.

    Old Shimano Derailleurs are just failed design.

    BTW - there is no standard how wide/narrow the hanger must be. I believe that each manufactuer gives minimum/maximum range of how offset a hanger must be from the cassette. If the 142 drops do not exceed that limit, then they are ok.

  40. #540
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy View Post
    Sure, the inside spacing on the dropouts is 142mm, I get that. The issue is that the inside edge of the brake mount and derailleur hanger are on that same plane when they should be inboard of the hub ends by 3.5mm on each side - which would locate them where they would be on a 135mm dropout. This is simple stuff.
    Agreed...simple!


  41. #541
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Ehhhhrrrrrr ... to make Confusion complete ?!?!?

    I have read the complete Prime/Rune Dropouts/Hangers-Thread.

    - After that I called my Mechanic, just to check back and not prove myself a liar - he has confirmed to me definitely from his memory that a readjustment of the Derailleur was NOT necessary?! I have checked his work and all I can see is a perfect adjusted Derailleur for every Gear of the Cassette, with crisp and tight shifting as a Result. How could this be possible? Due to the Thread above and coming from a 135 x 10 the Derailleur must be 3,5 mm offset, but isnīt? I donīt get it ... ?!?

    - User jncarpenter (Threadstarter) measured the IS-Brakemount being 3,5 mm outboard with his Set of Dropouts. Same with the Derailleur-Hanger. My Postmount only required a washer around 1 mm of thickness and the Brake-Caliper was fine. The Bolts look like they are relatively centered in their Caliper Eyelets. I donīt get it again. Especially while the IS-2000 Mount is a plane Surface with the Axle (inner Side of the Dropout) ... ?!?
    If you read my thread, you also noted that I agreed that one could setup a 142x12 rear to work just fine...no issues. However, my issue was/is that I like to swap rear wheels...that's where the real conflict lies. The 150x12 & 135x10 wheels are a seamless swap with appropriate drop-outs....not soo much with the 142x12 wheel. I have to completely re-tune the der. & reset the brake caliper.

    Keep in mind, you have a PM rear caliper (same here)...so the 1mm spacer gets the caliper just enough inboard to allow the pm mount to "work".


  42. #542
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    Quote Originally Posted by jncarpenter View Post
    If you read my thread, you also noted that I agreed that one could setup a 142x12 rear to work just fine...no issues. However, my issue was/is that I like to swap rear wheels...that's where the real conflict lies. The 150x12 & 135x10 wheels are a seamless swap with appropriate drop-outs....not soo much with the 142x12 wheel. I have to completely re-tune the der. & reset the brake caliper.

    Keep in mind, you have a PM rear caliper (same here)...so the 1mm spacer gets the caliper just enough inboard to allow the pm mount to "work".
    Yes, I do understand the Problem with your Rear Wheels and yes - the real Issue assembling my Spitfire was ISCG 05 with 73 mm BB-Shell when using Double Ring with Chaindevice. This problem was solved by filing off 2-3 mm off the ISCG-Tabs.
    What somehow crazes me is that you have had to completely re-tune the Derailleur when going from 135x10 to 142x12. This re-tuning wasnīt necessary when we made the same swap. Maybe my Mechanic does remember wrong ... ? Apart from this Setup was really easy.

    Quote Originally Posted by uzurpator View Post
    To be honest. I don't remember having a bike which did not require shims to properely set up a brake caliper. If one is really desperate to avoid shimming, then IS QR20 _front_ adapters are thicker by about 3mm then normal ones. Just remember to subtract 20mm from disc size. Ie - 203mm front adaptor is 180 rear adaptor( 180 front is 160 rear, 160 front is 140 rear ).

    Besides - getting a 142mm drops on a bike that is capable of 150 is kind of foolish anyway
    Hehehe, well ...
    To be honest my Experiences are different. I remember shimming was only necessary when using IS-Mounts with IS-Calipers and Adapters back in the Days, with older Magura Louises.
    Iīm not in the Boat for absolutely shimm-free Installment, Iīm pretty much ok as it is. At least only 1 mm shimming was done on the Brakes - the Point jncarpenter mentioned to make them work fine.

    Iīm not complaining at all, just purely out of interest: Why going 142 mm with no Reliefs/Threads plus 3,5 mm Offset on Mounts and Hanger? I could do without the Reliefs, but why this Offset?

  43. #543
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Yes, I do understand the Problem with your Rear Wheels and yes - the real Issue assembling my Spitfire was ISCG 05 with 73 mm BB-Shell when using Double Ring with Chaindevice. This problem was solved by filing off 2-3 mm off the ISCG-Tabs.
    What somehow crazes me is that you have had to completely re-tune the Derailleur when going from 135x10 to 142x12. This re-tuning wasnīt necessary when we made the same swap. Maybe my Mechanic does remember wrong ... ? Apart from this Setup was really easy.
    Well, I don't see how you can move the rear der. 3.5mm outboard and not need to re-tune...props to your alchemist!


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    So I can take my 12x135 wheel, stick it in the 142 drops squeeze the whole thing together and presto no shimming needed

    Seriously, this is turning into a bit of a head scratcher and maybe Keith needs to chime in on what's going on.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  45. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    So I can take my 12x135 wheel, stick it in the 142 drops squeeze the whole thing together and presto no shimming needed

    Seriously, this is turning into a bit of a head scratcher and maybe Keith needs to chime in on what's going on.
    Yes, that is basically the problem. Dropouts should have 3.5mm wheel slots and then entire dropout assembly needs to be moved inboard 3.5mm each side.

    The setup does work though - you just need to shim the brake adapter and use derailleurs with enough hi/low adjustment (such has Shimano shadows). Or you could use a 135mmx12 hub and try bending the triangle 3.5mm each side, but probably not a good idea......

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    Quote Originally Posted by cave dweller View Post
    Yes, that is basically the problem. Dropouts should have 3.5mm wheel slots and then entire dropout assembly needs to be moved inboard 3.5mm each side.

    The setup does work though - you just need to shim the brake adapter and use derailleurs with enough hi/low adjustment (such has Shimano shadows). Or you could use a 135mmx12 hub and try bending the triangle 3.5mm each side, but probably not a good idea......
    This is what I heard from the man himself,
    I haven’t heard of any issues with XX1 derailleur alignment, and I haven’t personally has issues with 1x10 X0 or X9 rear derailleurs.

  47. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Very nice NS with pretty much same geo as I am running with my Rune with 160 fork and neutral chips for 65.5 deg front, 74 deg rear and 13.45" BB with low rims (Stans Flow EX on 2.3 tires). I very much like this geo and set-up for aggro trail/hardy AM riding. Felt much better to me than in the slacker setting, which resulted in too much of a rear wheel bias when climbing and even felt slower on the pedally descents. For some reason the bike feels faster and more lively and responsive in the neutral setting for me as well (better jumper and cornering). For bike park or shuttling with no/minimal pedalling, imagine the slacker setting to be pretty good though.

    Cheers on the new bike, it's a treat!
    Thank you man!
    Glad to hear you are enjoying your Rune the same way.

    Yes, I too like the Geometry set-up this way right from the start - feels so much at Home! On the Flat I feel I have great and fast Acceleration - on or out of the Saddle. Going down the slacker HA gives a nice, more centered Position over the Bike, which I had already expected in Theory. The next planned Rides are combined with longer Uphills, so letīs see how the Bike works there.

    Me personally Iīm not too much Fan of super low BB-Heights. They do have Benefits on shaped or mellow Trails, but have some downsides in more technical Terrain. So for me BB-Heights around 34 cm works very well in all Conditions. This is the Reason to go with Angleset from the start: steeper Seatangle to support Climbing, slacker Rune-Style Headangle and not overly low BB. For the Park-Days I can go with the slack Flip-Chips and lower BB. If this is not enough I have the -1,5 Deg Cup, but I donīt see this for now. The Bike is so great and overall Fun. The Deville and the KS-Link are sooo smooth but lively and responsive at the same Time - Iīm so heavily in love with the Spitfire as it is.

    Cheers and many Greetings

  48. #548
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    Just had my first proper ride on the new spitfire and it was seriously good fun!
    My build is on the heavy side with freeride inner tube and heavy wheels, fox 36 coil forks, ccdbair etc I reckon it must be at least 34lb+, i ride 1x9 with a 34 front ring and am not that fit, I weigh 85kg.
    When I built it I was worried by the weight but as soon as i started pedalling all those worries disappeared, I climbed my local trails with ease! I was also worried that the fox 36 would make everything feel dead and too easy as that is how it used to feel on my old bike, but again those worries soon disappeared as I started decending. It was so much fun to ride, it felt lively and light. In the air it was balanced, I was expecting the DBair to soak up the jumps but it had plenty of pop of all lips, roots.
    I'm used to a low bb bike but I think the extra wheel base just helps add to the stability of the bike, there is lot of grip on the rear and it just rails berms and corners. I'm only using the 135x10 dropouts with 10mm bolt through and it feels plenty stiff. I also ride a dh bike with 150 rear end so know what that setup feels like, the back end of the spitfire definetly feels strong and planted. Finally I was concerned about the length of the top tube and the reach of the bike but with a 50mm stem it feels spot on. My last bike had top tube of 559mm with a 50mm stem, this is so much more comfy to ride. I know this sounds like I'm looking through rosé tinted glasses, but I have had so much fun on this bike today!

  49. #549
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Thank you man!
    Glad to hear you are enjoying your Rune the same way.

    Yes, I too like the Geometry set-up this way right from the start - feels so much at Home! On the Flat I feel I have great and fast Acceleration - on or out of the Saddle. Going down the slacker HA gives a nice, more centered Position over the Bike, which I had already expected in Theory. The next planned Rides are combined with longer Uphills, so letīs see how the Bike works there.

    Me personally Iīm not too much Fan of super low BB-Heights. They do have Benefits on shaped or mellow Trails, but have some downsides in more technical Terrain. So for me BB-Heights around 34 cm works very well in all Conditions. This is the Reason to go with Angleset from the start: steeper Seatangle to support Climbing, slacker Rune-Style Headangle and not overly low BB. For the Park-Days I can go with the slack Flip-Chips and lower BB. If this is not enough I have the -1,5 Deg Cup, but I donīt see this for now. The Bike is so great and overall Fun. The Deville and the KS-Link are sooo smooth but lively and responsive at the same Time - Iīm so heavily in love with the Spitfire as it is.

    Cheers and many Greetings
    Cool, I am pretty impressed with how smooth the KS link is as well. Night and day to me as compared to the former VF4b design that makes running air shocks that much better.

    I hear ya with the low BB thing. I used to think lower was always better for added stability and control in/out of corners, which can definitely be an advantage, but I feel you lose some poppy, lively action and performance over square hits and lips and whatnot due to lower BB wanting to hug the ground more. I think 13.3-13.6" BB's are about spot on for these bikes especially since the KS is so smooth and wants to grip and comply to to everything so well.

    I am at home with the kiddos all day today, but can't wait to get after it tommorrow for day of some techy aggro trail goodness!
    Ride On!

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    Is it possible to stick a 1.5 fork in a V2 Spitty? This guy on NSMB seems to have done it on his, but maybe it's a typo?? BUT the stem and spacers look bigger than the regular 1 1/8.

    + look at the upper cup?

    THoughts??

    2013 Spitfire-imgp4983_zps10853c43.jpg

    North Shore Mountain Biking Forums - View Single Post - NSMB - 2013 - Enduro/Trail Bike Build thread

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