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  1. #1
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    VelociRaptor alternative in UST

    Hi all,

    Just got back into MTB after 3 year layoff (back injury). Used to ride Specialized FSRxc with WTB velociraptors. Now I got a SC Superlight and thinking of going UST with it. Was wondering if there is a good alternative in UST to the grippy raptors? Loved the raptors with the Super Thick Slime tubes (zero flats), but adds a lot of weight, trying to keep the SC light.
    Last edited by sandmannn69; 07-18-2010 at 05:43 PM. Reason: confusing title

  2. #2
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    Gotta say the raptors are old school these days. I am very happy with a conti mtn king ust in 2.4 flava combined with a maxxis larsen tt 2.1 or other small knobbed tire like a kenda small block eight, bonti jones ac etc on the rear. Sticking with true ust tires has its advantages though.

  3. #3
    vmb
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    velociraptor still a good tire....

    Why not mount the velociraptor tubless ? I run it that way on the rear of my Titus Racer-X and still love the way it hooks up on climbs/corners and the bite it has when braking.

    I've tried the small block 8 and a few others with decent results, but for the price to performance ratio, it's hard to beat.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by vmb
    Why not mount the velociraptor tubless ? I run it that way on the rear of my Titus Racer-X and still love the way it hooks up on climbs/corners and the bite it has when braking.

    I've tried the small block 8 and a few others with decent results, but for the price to performance ratio, it's hard to beat.
    Yeah, can't beat the rear tire, that profile is killer for climbing. On the SL, it just jumps up hillls, and doesn't get squirrely when braking. How do you run it tubeless, ghetto-style? UST rim or regular?

  5. #5
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    I have ran the Velociraptor ghetto tubeless quite a few times, with the 20" split tube method.

    I did find that the Kevlar bead Velociraptor leaks more sealant through the sidewalls than the wire bead version does.

    The only problem I had was that I frequent really rocky trails, and I did not tear any sidewalls, but tended to chunk knobs off of them before they were worn out. My girlfriend did not have this problem being 140# vs my 190#.

    I ran them at about 28psi. They are not a very high volume tire, but do climb well.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by twowheelsdown2002
    I have ran the Velociraptor ghetto tubeless quite a few times, with the 20" split tube method.

    I did find that the Kevlar bead Velociraptor leaks more sealant through the sidewalls than the wire bead version does.

    The only problem I had was that I frequent really rocky trails, and I did not tear any sidewalls, but tended to chunk knobs off of them before they were worn out. My girlfriend did not have this problem being 140# vs my 190#.

    I ran them at about 28psi. They are not a very high volume tire, but do climb well.
    Thanks for the valuable info, will definitely consider going Ghetto until I can afford some UST wheels. Checked out the split tube ghetto method on youtube, looks pretty simple.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandmannn69
    Thanks for the valuable info, will definitely consider going Ghetto until I can afford some UST wheels. Checked out the split tube ghetto method on youtube, looks pretty simple.
    Very simple. The main thing to be careful of is not tearing the tube when putting on a tire. Not that having to buy another $3 tube is a huge deal, but a minor PIA if it happens.

    UST is the most simple, but highest $ and extra weight from a UST rim. However, I've put right at 500 miles on my Mavic XM819s; took them off this weekend to true them and didn't need too. I could barely find a spot to even turn the wrench on, so I didn't bother. They are very reliable. Haven't been able to inflate a tire them with a floor pump like I can my Stans 355 race wheels, but a compressor work's perfectly (and is less work of course).

    I've run Maxxis Ignitor UST, Hutchinson Pirahna TLR and Michelen XCR TLR. The Michelens don't wear great (but I put some miles on the road riding too and from DC). The Ignitors were WAY to heavy for me (being UST of course), but basically bulletproof in our rocky terrain and really hooked up great in the rough stuff.

    This was all after going ghetto for my first entry into tubeless to make sure it worked for me. 20" BMX tube, sealant and and afternoon is all you really need. You may or may not be able to inflate with a floor pump (do not use CO2 cartridge); so if you have a compressor, that is a huge benefit. Most people run Stans, I've run it and tired Slime for tubeless. Had better luck with the Stans filling holes, but the Slime seems to seal the TLR sidewalls better.

    Don't get discouraged if your favorite non-tubeless tire doesn't work; it wasn't designed for it. Some work better than others, some need more air to keep the sidewall up, since it was designed to use the inner-tube for support, not the sidewall. The sidewalls are generally very porous, and may not seal up instantly the first time (but the sealant should do that for you).

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandmannn69
    Thanks for the valuable info, will definitely consider going Ghetto until I can afford some UST wheels. Checked out the split tube ghetto method on youtube, looks pretty simple.
    One word of caution. DO NOT inflate to over 40psi when you seat the bead. You are not seating a UST bead into a UST rim, which can take more pressure to get it to pop into place.

    Follow the same guideline that Stan's No Tubes gives out for when he sets up standard tires using his rim strips, because "split tube ghetto tubeless" is darn near the same thing. I only inflate to 35psi when I set mine up.

    Just put a little air in the tube. Stretch it onto the rim.(it should look like you have a road tire on your rim at this point) Cut it all the way around, right down the middle and let the tube flop over the sides of the rim. Use a wet rag and wipe off the powder from the tube. Put on one side of the tire BY HAND. Put the other bead most of the way on, and add sealant. Finish installing second bead BY HAND!! Inflate to 35psi. Shake sealant up the sidewalls of the tire, all the way around. Pull and trim off excess rubber with exacto. Set pressure to 23-30psi depending on tire size/usage etc.

    I don't even bother with the soapy water thing. I have found it to have no need for split tube ghetto. I don't need the soap to get the bead to slip into place, the tire will simply push outwards against the tube, and the tube has a lot of stretch, so the tire will go right out to the rim bead. Soap just makes more mess. On a Stan's No Tubes strip, the strip is thick and needs to not stretch, so the soap lets it stay in place as the tire slides out to the bead. I have had no troubles at all not using soapy water on the beads with split tubes.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by vmb
    Why not mount the velociraptor tubless ? I run it that way on the rear of my Titus Racer-X and still love the way it hooks up on climbs/corners and the bite it has when braking.

    I've tried the small block 8 and a few others with decent results, but for the price to performance ratio, it's hard to beat.
    Do you use the wirebead raptor or folding/kevlar bead for tubeless? Seems like wirebead tires would be less prone to leak....

  10. #10
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    I met a guy yesterday that had some new dual compound Nevegals that looked cool. The guy was very pleased with them.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by twowheelsdown2002

    I don't even bother with the soapy water thing. I have found it to have no need for split tube ghetto. I don't need the soap to get the bead to slip into place, the tire will simply push outwards against the tube, and the tube has a lot of stretch, so the tire will go right out to the rim bead. Soap just makes more mess. On a Stan's No Tubes strip, the strip is thick and needs to not stretch, so the soap lets it stay in place as the tire slides out to the bead. I have had no troubles at all not using soapy water on the beads with split tubes.
    Took a couple of hours, but finally got two raptors mounted ghetto tubeless with the 20" tube liners. Couldn't get the tires on the rim at first, but after applying soap to the 20" tube, they slipped right on. Inflated to 35 with no leaks yet.

    Do you let them sit overnite at 35 psi, or reduce to riding pressure after shaking/spreading the stans around inside?

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