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  1. #1
    Got a suspension fork
    Reputation: randyharris's Avatar
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    Tutorial for rebuilding a Manitou Tower Pro 29er fork?

    My fork is way past the time it should have been serviced.

    I'm a cheap ass and want to learn to do it myself.

    Any advice on how a susfork newbie can learn to do this himself?

    Thanks!
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  2. #2
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    My brother worked on his Manitou Tower a bit. One piece of advice, one or both of the bolts on the bottom of the fork are reverse threaded! They are easy to shear off if you try and unscrew them the usual direction.

  3. #3
    ....just cruisin through
    Reputation: dfrazm's Avatar
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    This should have everything you need (and more) from the 29er Components forum:

    Manitou Tower Pro Fork for Clydesdales - Techical
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Here are just a few of the key ingredients: dynamite, pole vaulting, laughing gas, choppers.....

  4. #4
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    Linky here.

    Here is some free advice. Make sure you put the ABS valve in the full open position before trying to install the valve. Also, its the rebound side that has the reverse thread shaft.

    Bring it by FHB and I'll show you how its done.

    Do you have wiper seals or do you need some ordered?
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  5. #5
    parenting for gnarness
    Reputation: chollaball's Avatar
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    i tried servicing a fork once, having never seen it done. Was a messy, timeconsuming and ultimately expensive mistake. If you have a good rapport iwth a shop, pay them to do it and let you watch.

  6. #6
    Got a suspension fork
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    Aaron I'll take you up on that offer! I'd much rather see it done once before attempting myself. You like IPA? I'll bring some good stuff.

    Hey what is FHB?

    No wiper seals, need to order.
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  7. #7
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    Servicing seals

    Today I opened it up to install a softer spring, and thought it was a good idea to remove dust seals and foam wipers to clean them.

    I removed the external tension spring (the one you see also when the fork is assembled), and tried to remove the seal with a screwdriver, as shown in Manitou's service manual.

    I didn't manage to, and unfortunately I damaged the foam wiper under the seal, as well as a further tension spring I wasn't aware of, because was installed internally and so not visible.

    I've reinstalled the broken wiper, but I'll need to change it, so now I'll buy new seals and wipers, hope I'll find them somewhere. And that they come with new springs as well. But how will I remove seals? How can I remove the inner tension spring, before I push with the screwdriver?

    And, BTW, when you service your fork you do not remove seals, do you? I tried to do it, because I thought I could clean them better, but on second thought likely you should do this only when you have to replace seals.

  8. #8
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    Having never done a new manitou- and being on my phone and not checking the links- take this with a grain of salt. It's always a good idea to replace seals when you have hem accessible. If you don't, Murphy will rear his disfigured head and they will certainly leak about five hours after you finish the fork. Most seals are pried out gently with a small flat blade screw driver. You want to take care not to mar the seal landing on the stantio n by taking your time and levering a small bit at a time. Also, wrap a few rounds of duct tape around the shaft of the screw driver where it contacts he leverage point on the fork. Stations can be unbelievably soft and you will wonder how they take all the rock hits hey do! Fork overhaul is not for the non mechanical types. More than once I have seen someone end up spending more repairing what they messed up Han if thus just brought a six pack and thier wallet to their local shop. Tread lightly!
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  9. #9
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    This is a bit confusing, it sounds like you are describing prying up seals WITH the stanchions in place? That's a bad idea. Remove the uppers from the lowers and only pry the seals out with the lowers in a clamp/bike stand.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  10. #10
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    Thanks!

    @Jayem: no, I first removed the lowers, sure! I followed all the steps in Manitou's service manual.

    My doubt is on tension springs (how will access and remove the internal spring?). And on seals/wipers removal, which according to @cstem should always be done.

    Finally, what's the best way to clean the internals?

  11. #11
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    Yep, most of those seals are usually double-lipped, meaning there's a tension spring on the opposite side, it's not just trying to keep stuff out, but keep the stuff inside from going out. The manitou shocks are not high-pressure shocks, so changing the seals is not usually necessary. Even on my marzocchi forks when I had them apart it was not really necessary. If it's seal-changing time in terms of hours (a season on the fork) then it's a good idea to change them. If you take them out for any reason, then yes, change them, because you are going to damage the tension spring (sorry to say this now, as you've already found out). Otherwise, just leave them in.

    Usually wiping down the internals is good enough, look for any gunky grease, etc. If you want to go even further, let them soak in a bucket with dish soap. I'd refrain from using harsh degreasers, as manitou's usually have a lot of plastic parts and those might degrade if exposed to degreasers, plus soap is just fine. Then scrub the parts with a small brush and some more soap after setting, then let dry. This usually isn't always necessary though, changing the oil and wiping down the parts with something clean and dry is usually enough. Be sure to re-oil the fork as specified and if it's a semi-bath lubrication type fork, a light wipe-down of synthetic grease is a good idea.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  12. #12
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    Great thanks.

    Yes, I've running the fork for one season. The seals seemed perfect, but the foam wipers underneath were dirty (I live in a pretty muddy region), and it's difficult to clean them.

    As soon as the new seals and wipers come, I'll do a more accurate work.

    Regarding grease, I used one with teflon to lubricate the new spring. Do you think it's OK with Motorex semi-bath oil? BTW now I've bought some 5w-40 synthetic motor oil that, according to Manitou, should be the same than Motorex's.

  13. #13
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    Removing seals from the lower almost always destroys them. I usually recommend replacing seals when the fork is apart, unless you are really good at changing your bath oil on schedule. If the foam rings are dirty, definitely change the seals/rings. Dirt plus oil makes a great grinding paste for your stanchions. Get those sanding sponges out of there. Don't leave them out, as they hold lubricating oil for the seal.

  14. #14
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    Thanks guys, you're sharing helpful information!

    Anything else I should consider replacing after one season (= almost 1 year) of riding, in severe conditions for some months? E.g. bushings, air piston..?Yesterday I cleaned and inspected the air piston and it seemed as new.

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