Results 1 to 61 of 61
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683

    Tire issues - Light, grippy, yet long wearing rear tire - 26" HT?

    Guys,
    Looking for some feed back on rear tires for a 26" Hardtail.

    I have been using Nobby Nic 26x2.25 in the lower priced Performance Line compound and like the weight (590 grams) and overall grip in all conditions. What I don't like is the life. I get about 280-340 miles on rear tire before I wear down the center nobs to nothing.

    Front I use the same tire and got 915 miles on that font tire. For me that lasted me a year so I am happy with that kind of life in the front.

    So what are my options for a tire that will last longer on the rear. These are $40 tire from Jensen USA so not terrible expensive, but I hate going through a rear tire every 300 miles. I have no issues with rips or tears for the most part and don't ride much on pavement.

    Most riding is loose rocky terrain so I want something with some bite to deal with soft dirt and loose rocks, but I don't want a ton of rolling resistance for occasion races I run.

    So any advice? Remember I ride 26" so I need a tire that is offered in that size.

    Thanks.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  2. #2
    Give it a crank
    Reputation: Mtn-Rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    2,995
    Advice? Sure, you know what tire threads here turn into...

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Casual Observer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    9,206
    My advice: Buy Local.
    Nobody gives a s#$t you singlespeed.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: metalaficionado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    1,994
    I had good luck with ground controls on the back, lasting twice that. 2.1 is all I needed.
    That's on a 29er.
    26 2.1 GC's weight is 585gm. Or with extra 15 gm you can get the grid 2bliss and bulletproof the sidewall.

  5. #5
    Who took my gears?
    Reputation: dirtbyte's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1,544
    I recently discovered the Maxxis Ikon EXO EXC (the EXO/EXC version makes a difference), Light, Grippy, wear well, but... NOT CHEAP! So far this is the best tire I have run out here.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Quote Originally Posted by mtbdennis View Post
    I recently discovered the Maxxis Ikon EXO EXC (the EXO/EXC version makes a difference), Light, Grippy, wear well, but... NOT CHEAP! So far this is the best tire I have run out here.

    So how many miles?

    Goal is 600 miles at least for any rear tire. For some reason I feel like wear down my rear faster that most, but I am not sure if just the Nobby Nic or me. I am getting a solid life from the front Nobby Nic, but due most guys go through 3 rear tires for 1 front tire? I am not a big guy, have massive power or really ride nasty trails so I find it odd that wear through those rear lug so easily. I also don't skid the rear tire on descents.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RajunCajun44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    2,783
    i love ground conrols... and I want so badly to keep using them... but I have had 3 sidewall tears with them in the past 6 months...

    I am still searching... my new tire that I am trying out is the WTB Bronson. Not too heavy and I bought it at REI, so I have that insurance in case of a sidewall tear... So far so good with that one...

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Casual Observer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    9,206
    Quote Originally Posted by MtbAZ44 View Post
    i love ground conrols... and I want so badly to keep using them... but I have had 3 sidewall tears with them in the past 6 months...

    I am still searching... my new tire that I am trying out is the WTB Bronson. Not too heavy and I bought it at REI, so I have that insurance in case of a sidewall tear... So far so good with that one...
    Bronson is great as a front tire, but not sure I'd recommend it for a rear, especially a HT.
    Nobody gives a s#$t you singlespeed.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: metalaficionado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    1,994
    Quote Originally Posted by MtbAZ44 View Post
    i love ground conrols... and I want so badly to keep using them... but I have had 3 sidewall tears with them in the past 6 months...

    I am still searching... my new tire that I am trying out is the WTB Bronson. Not too heavy and I bought it at REI, so I have that insurance in case of a sidewall tear... So far so good with that one...
    that's why spesh just came out with GC grid 2bliss

  10. #10
    PMP,TAN,LAUNDRY
    Reputation: azdog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    4,250
    Good argument against the GC which is why is just run minions for both xc and dh out here in AZ. per bike radar. Full link-http://www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/gear/category/components/tyres/mountain/product/review-specialized-ground-control-tire-12-46627/
    "Traction on bare rock was confidence inspiring as well, but sun-baked hardpack and loose conditions are where we found the Ground Control a little lacking (in fairness, most tires struggle here). In those conditions, the rounded profile didn't provide as much of a shelf to lean on as a more squared-off tread, and the Ground Control's otherwise predictable drift characteristics were harder to catch once it broke loose."
    Bender to AZDog: I'm not the best person to give advice on not riding!

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: quelocotony's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    341
    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    Guys,
    Looking for some feed back on rear tires for a 26" Hardtail.

    I have been using Nobby Nic 26x2.25 in the lower priced Performance Line compound and like the weight (590 grams) and overall grip in all conditions. What I don't like is the life. I get about 280-340 miles on rear tire before I wear down the center nobs to nothing.

    Front I use the same tire and got 915 miles on that font tire. For me that lasted me a year so I am happy with that kind of life in the front.

    So what are my options for a tire that will last longer on the rear. These are $40 tire from Jensen USA so not terrible expensive, but I hate going through a rear tire every 300 miles. I have no issues with rips or tears for the most part and don't ride much on pavement.

    Most riding is loose rocky terrain so I want something with some bite to deal with soft dirt and loose rocks, but I don't want a ton of rolling resistance for occasion races I run.

    So any advice? Remember I ride 26" so I need a tire that is offered in that size.

    Thanks.
    I have been running Maxxis Crossmarks on both my 29ers with over 500 miles and still some tread to go. I got these cause they are cheaper than the Ikons which are my all time favorite 29er rear tire.

    I used to run Maxxis Larsen TTs on my 26er and loved them especially as a rear tire. Super fast rolling, great traction and the LUST version were bullet proof. I don't know if they still make those but I liked them quite a bit.

  12. #12
    Pivotal figure
    Reputation: kenbentit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    6,295
    I used to run Maxxis Ignitors for this exact reason. They have enough rubber to give a decent wear life but still roll fast and have decent grip. Not sure about getting 600 miles since I never get that out of anything (but I ride rocky stuff all the time).
    Desert Sunset Calls/Upward, Pain, Perseverance/Welcome Solitude

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Quote Originally Posted by metalaficionado View Post
    I had good luck with ground controls on the back, lasting twice that. 2.1 is all I needed.
    That's on a 29er.
    26 2.1 GC's weight is 585gm. Or with extra 15 gm you can get the grid 2bliss and bulletproof the sidewall.
    Bart,
    I am thinking strongly of going with you suggestion. From my research it appears that tread wise the nobby nic and ground control are very similar That should me similar handling. Weight are similar as well and since we run many of the same trails I would think I should get good life from them.

    Since I run tubes I don't need to worry about sidewall leaks, but I am consider going tubeless. I just don't want change my rims. I am running some Mavic's from 2003 I can't for the life of me remember which wheel model rim, but I think it was mid range model with rim brakes. It was laced to XT hubs front and rear from where I bought it. Anyway not sure if I can go tubeless on that wheel.

    Anyway the question is 2.1 or 2.3 and Std Control Casing or Grid 2bliss. I don't like that 650 g on 2.3 Grid 2bliss, but the 2.1 stg control at 585 is nice. The 2.1 Grid 2bliss seems like the perfect choice at 600 grams, but will it seem narrow compared to 2.25 nobby nic? $55 is a little steep, but if I can get twice the miles on center lugs it is worth it.

    Hmm....
    Last edited by JoePAz; 11-19-2013 at 01:12 PM.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BIGHORN LEW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    792
    try a panaracer fire XC pro in the 2.1 size. I really like'em.light weight, roll great, grip great, and hold up well. I'm running one on the rear right now. be sure to get the higher tpi made in Taiwan version. oh, and you will love the price!
    RAM speed: UP, UP, and away....!

  15. #15
    Give it a crank
    Reputation: Mtn-Rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    2,995
    300 miles out of a tire can be different things to different riders:

    1) Plenty of miles out a tire for a racer using it for only one race
    2) Not a bad tire for an aggressive rider tearing up grippy tires on sharp rocks
    3) Ok tire for a rider leaving skid marks all over town
    4) Just a plain bad tire if the knobs start falling off after 50 miles

    Riding style and terrain are the two things that eat tires, easing up on riding style makes tires last a lot longer. Particulary if you're a skidder, you can see how much longer tires last by not skidding anymore, big difference.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Quote Originally Posted by Mtn-Rider View Post
    300 miles out of a tire can be different things to different riders:

    ...

    Riding style and terrain are the two things that eat tires, easing up on riding style makes tires last a lot longer. Particulary if you're a skidder, you can see how much longer tires last by not skidding anymore, big difference.
    I understand that. For the most part I don't skid. I believe all my wear comes from climbing. As for terrain. I ride BCT, Marciopa and Spur Cross where there is alot loose rocks. However little in the way of really sharp rocks like PMP or massive granite climbs like National. I also ride Sonoran North and South which is quite smooth and Deems. In the past 18 months I have gone through 2 Nobby Nic's in front and 4 in the back. Only the first set which were take offs did I have any ripping off of lugs or slices. I got my front new Nobby Nic to last 900 miles and tossed it when the front edge lugs were just too worn down. I could have gotten more miles from it, but since I had a the C4 race coming I put it on the front to ensure good cornering performance.

    In the rear I am on my 4th tire and the all wear down the same way. Center lugs are slowly chewed up. They lose the edges and slowly get worn down to rounded nubs rather than lugs. These nubs then can't get grip when climbing steep and somewhat loose terrain. I have not sliced a nobby nic or damaged the side walls. Just worn down the center lugs on the to the point there is nothing other than a slick tire. Not sure why I do this.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  17. #17
    DLd
    DLd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    1,526
    I don't skid either, and I go through rear tires at a pretty good clip. If you hit the corners fast on our loose downhills it really eats out the inner edge of the outer knobs pretty quick. Climbing on steep loose rocky stuff, where you're fighting for traction seems to wear the center knobs pretty quickly. I imagine any significant braking in our rocky terrain, even without skidding, takes its toll as well. In reply to your earlier question, yes going through 2-3 rear tires per front tire out here is pretty normal for Phoenix riding.
    Fall is here. Woo-hoo!

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: metalaficionado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    1,994
    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    Bart,
    I am thinking strongly of going with you suggestion. From my research it appears that tread wise the nobby nic and ground control are very similar That should me similar handling. Weight are similar as well and since we run many of the same trails I would think I should get good life from them.

    Since I run tubes I don't need to worry about sidewall leaks, but I am consider going tubeless. I just don't want change my rims. I am running some Mavic's from 2003 I can't for the life of me remember which wheel model rim, but I think it was mid range model with rim brakes. It was laced to XT hubs front and rear from where I bought it. Anyway not sure if I can go tubeless on that wheel.

    Anyway the question is 2.1 or 2.3 and Std Control Casing or Grid 2bliss. I don't like that 650 g on 2.3 Grid 2bliss, but the 2.1 stg control at 585 is nice. The 2.1 Grid 2bliss seems like the perfect choice at 600 grams, but will it seem narrow compared to 2.25 nobby nic? $55 is a little steep, but if I can get twice the miles on center lugs it is worth it.

    Hmm....
    didn't know you run with tubes, spesh makes all their mtb tires tubeless which is more pricey
    I also use 29 inch... not sure now if all my tire experience applies to you now,
    bigger wheels with tubeless setup - different ball game from 26er with tubes

    I ran FastTracks 2.2 grids 29er on the back now, they give me good volume and man do they roll fast. I took them thru C4, picket post punisher, bct, etc. - no sign of wear.
    They are not as grippy but I like looser tires in the back - especially descending tight switchback. Uphill, it's all about right gearing and weight shifting.
    and at 650 gm is worth... although I may go back to GC's.

    BTW, I wanted to try continental x-kings, but they would mount on my cheap rims.

  19. #19
    1 bike to ride them all
    Reputation: CANADIANBACON's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    211
    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    Guys,
    Looking for some feed back on rear tires for a 26" Hardtail.

    I have been using Nobby Nic 26x2.25 in the lower priced Performance Line compound and like the weight (590 grams) and overall grip in all conditions. What I don't like is the life. I get about 280-340 miles on rear tire before I wear down the center nobs to nothing.

    Front I use the same tire and got 915 miles on that font tire. For me that lasted me a year so I am happy with that kind of life in the front.

    So what are my options for a tire that will last longer on the rear. These are $40 tire from Jensen USA so not terrible expensive, but I hate going through a rear tire every 300 miles. I have no issues with rips or tears for the most part and don't ride much on pavement.

    Most riding is loose rocky terrain so I want something with some bite to deal with soft dirt and loose rocks, but I don't want a ton of rolling resistance for occasion races I run.

    So any advice? Remember I ride 26" so I need a tire that is offered in that size.

    Thanks.
    Continental Trail King 2.2.

    - They come in regular and tubeless the "race sport" tire weighs 660 grams
    - They are made with Black Chili rubber compound which in my experience has outlasted every other compound out there yet still has a grippy durameter!?
    - They have rediculous grip on loose and rocky surfaces as well as wet roots
    - They are not the most expensive nor cheapest tires out there but...

    When you buy the best you only cry once.

    Support your local bike shop bro!

    CB

  20. #20
    Ahhh the pain....
    Reputation: Raybum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    2,282
    I'm always looking for a better rear tire. I typically get 500-700 miles out of each and at the number of miles I ride, find I'm putting a new tire on about every 2 months. I ran the old Michelin Wild Racers for a couple years and loved them...cheap($26), durable and 700 gms (29r). Then they changed the design and the new ones suck. Now I'm using conti x kings w the protection sidewalls and they seem ok. On sale, about $42 each...
    I did just order one of these CAMBER C1671| Mountain Bike Tires | CST Tires in the foldable version. Less than $30... Hoping it's gonna hold up well although at 660 grams, I'm a little afraid the sidewalls might be thin...we'll see.
    In the front, hard to beat the panaracer rampage although I am going to try a 2.4 x-king for comparison.
    ┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐
    http://onegear-ray.blogspot.com/

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Quote Originally Posted by DLd View Post
    I don't skid either, and I go through rear tires at a pretty good clip. If you hit the corners fast on our loose downhills it really eats out the inner edge of the outer knobs pretty quick. Climbing on steep loose rocky stuff, where you're fighting for traction seems to wear the center knobs pretty quickly. I imagine any significant braking in our rocky terrain, even without skidding, takes its toll as well. In reply to your earlier question, yes going through 2-3 rear tires per front tire out here is pretty normal for Phoenix riding.

    Here is an example.

    Left tire is rear at about 330 mile and right is a front at 915 miles.
    Tire issues - Light, grippy, yet long wearing rear tire - 26" HT?-img-20131119-00287.jpg

    Rear tire was replace when center lugs are pretty much gone and causes lots rear slipping when climbing. Front tire was replaced before the C4 race because I did not trust the side lugs to hold any longer in turns. In late September I had what turned into nasty wipe out at Sonoran north when taking a corner fast the front end washed out. Not hurt, but I did get some nasty road rash on my hip that was a pain to take care of and keep dressings on. I rode on the tire a while after this, but was very gentle in the corners. For the C4 race I put a new tire on so I could attack the corners with more confidence. Anyway I am ok with front tire life, but the rear is what is frustrating. Those center lugs just get ground down so fast on the Nobby nic.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Quote Originally Posted by metalaficionado View Post
    didn't know you run with tubes, spesh makes all their mtb tires tubeless which is more pricey
    I also use 29 inch... not sure now if all my tire experience applies to you now,
    bigger wheels with tubeless setup - different ball game from 26er with tubes

    I ran FastTracks 2.2 grids 29er on the back now, they give me good volume and man do they roll fast. I took them thru C4, picket post punisher, bct, etc. - no sign of wear.
    They are not as grippy but I like looser tires in the back - especially descending tight switchback. Uphill, it's all about right gearing and weight shifting.
    and at 650 gm is worth... although I may go back to GC's.
    I am strongly considering a change to tubeless. Plan would be to go with proper Stans Kit with rim strip. Pricey at $68, but I don't want to burp a tire if possible and do not have the budget for new wheels. Really I am sick of getting flats. I have never been able to complete the BCT little pan whole enchilada route without a flat and tube change and on Sunday got flat on BCT just after the Humphries hill climb. I had to change it in the little wash area after that descent and had another 15 miles to ride. Plus with my C4 race with tire going down at the top of 3rd climb. No pinch flats lately, but just cactus flats. I run 30psi front and 35 psi rear so I don't expect much change with tubeless, but just hope to not have change tube mid ride.

    So on the fast track vs GC is change due to the grip of GC because it sounds like fast tracks were working good for you?
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Quote Originally Posted by Raybum View Post
    I'm always looking for a better rear tire. .. Now I'm using conti x kings w the protection sidewalls and they seem ok. On sale, about $42 each...
    I did just order one of these CAMBER C1671| Mountain Bike Tires | CST Tires in the foldable version. Less than $30... ...
    Ray,
    Going to consider these as well. Less than $30 is nice and make replacing a tire frequently a possibility.
    Last edited by JoePAz; 11-20-2013 at 07:39 AM.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  24. #24
    Ahhh the pain....
    Reputation: Raybum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    2,282
    Joe, tubeless is definitely the way to go. Never a worry about thorns or the like...just sidewall cuts. Even that being the case, you will have fewer issues.
    When I first ran tubeless on some old 26" wheels, I just used gorilla tape to seal up the spoke holes and then a old presta valve cut from a tube. Never had a burping issue, but I know the stans strips are meant to fill that gap bead making them a bit more burp proof.
    The other thing I did before converting to tubeless was inject my tubes with stans. Pretty easy if you have removable valve cores...in my case, I simply punctured the tube, squirted in a few oz, and patched it. Worked great. That would at least make you less susceptible to thorns.
    ┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐
    http://onegear-ray.blogspot.com/

  25. #25
    ...
    Reputation: dtownmtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,270
    Quote Originally Posted by Raybum View Post
    Never a worry about thorns or the like
    Except when you forget to refresh your sealant. And you will forget. It dries out pretty fast here in AZ. The solution is to carry one of the little bottles of sealant and a valve core remover. It only takes a couple of minutes to remove the core, squirt in half a bottle of sealant, install the core, pump the tire and go. Easier and quicker than changing a tube.

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Quote Originally Posted by Raybum View Post
    ...
    The other thing I did before converting to tubeless was inject my tubes with stans. Pretty easy if you have removable valve cores...in my case, I simply punctured the tube, squirted in a few oz, and patched it. Worked great. That would at least make you less susceptible to thorns.
    Interesting. Make sense and I happen to have 4oz bottle of Stans I got from the goodie bag at Whiskey this year. Hmm...
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: metalaficionado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    1,994
    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    I am strongly considering a change to tubeless. Plan would be to go with proper Stans Kit with rim strip. Pricey at $68, but I don't want to burp a tire if possible and do not have the budget for new wheels. Really I am sick of getting flats. I have never been able to complete the BCT little pan whole enchilada route without a flat and tube change and on Sunday got flat on BCT just after the Humphries hill climb. I had to change it in the little wash area after that descent and had another 15 miles to ride. Plus with my C4 race with tire going down at the top of 3rd climb. No pinch flats lately, but just cactus flats. I run 30psi front and 35 psi rear so I don't expect much change with tubeless, but just hope to not have change tube mid ride.

    So on the fast track vs GC is change due to the grip of GC because it sounds like fast tracks were working good for you?
    Damn, I remembered running over barbed wire south of emery henderson and the tire sealed. Tubeless a little more maintenance, I check the pressure before each ride, add stan's every few weeks... but after switching to enhanced side walls - I had no issues on the trails with them. Once you learn how the certain responds to different pressure, you can fine tune them for different trails.

    FT's work great for most part in Sonoran, but I rather climb up windgate with GC's.

  28. #28
    Give it a crank
    Reputation: Mtn-Rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    2,995
    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    Here is an example.

    Left tire is rear at about 330 mile and right is a front at 915 miles.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG-20131119-00287.jpg 
Views:	1310 
Size:	130.8 KB 
ID:	848396

    Rear tire was replace when center lugs are pretty much gone and causes lots rear slipping when climbing. Front tire was replaced before the C4 race because I did not trust the side lugs to hold any longer in turns. In late September I had what turned into nasty wipe out at Sonoran north when taking a corner fast the front end washed out. Not hurt, but I did get some nasty road rash on my hip that was a pain to take care of and keep dressings on. I rode on the tire a while after this, but was very gentle in the corners. For the C4 race I put a new tire on so I could attack the corners with more confidence. Anyway I am ok with front tire life, but the rear is what is frustrating. Those center lugs just get ground down so fast on the Nobby nic.
    Pics, finally! The one on the left looks fishy, most of my tires wear down smooth. The only time I've seen a tire wear like that was with on a few tires with really crappy rubber compounds. They only lasted 100 miles before self-destructing to pieces and looked very similar to the one on the left.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Quote Originally Posted by metalaficionado View Post
    FT's work great for most part in Sonoran, but I rather climb up windgate with GC's.
    Yeah Sonoran is not tough on rear tires. Front tires more so if you really push the turns. It us up climbs like windgate where I want the rear traction.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Quote Originally Posted by Mtn-Rider View Post
    Pics, finally! The one on the left looks fishy, most of my tires wear down smooth. The only time I've seen a tire wear like that was with on a few tires with really crappy rubber compounds. They only lasted 100 miles before self-destructing to pieces and looked very similar to the one on the left.
    The wear pattern on the left (rear tire) is consistent over 3 or 4 tires. So I don't consider it a one off tire issue.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Quote Originally Posted by mtbdennis View Post
    I recently discovered the Maxxis Ikon EXO EXC (the EXO/EXC version makes a difference), Light, Grippy, wear well, but... NOT CHEAP! So far this is the best tire I have run out here.
    Dennis you run tubless with Stans?

    Did you have this happen?



    There is a long thread on wheels and tires on this. Now if I stay with tubes I don't need to worry about this, but I am strongly considering a move to tubeless and don't want a $60 tire doing this.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  32. #32
    Who took my gears?
    Reputation: dirtbyte's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1,544
    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    Dennis you run tubless with Stans?

    Did you have this happen?



    There is a long thread on wheels and tires on this. Now if I stay with tubes I don't need to worry about this, but I am strongly considering a move to tubeless and don't want a $60 tire doing this.
    Yes, I am running them tubeless, and I ride with a few guys that do as well. I did read those threads about the bubbling before buying them. Most of those threads are a little old, and I suspect that Maxxis changed something since then. I also switched to Orange Seal sealant to see if it made any difference. They have only been on the bike for a couple of weeks now, but I will keep you posted.

    Also, if my tires looked like the ones in the picture I would say I had got my money's worth, it appears to have quite a few miles on it!

    From my initial rides, I would say the risk of it bubbling is worth it. I usually do not notice much of a difference when switching tires, but with this one, the difference is very noticeable.

  33. #33
    Got a suspension fork
    Reputation: randyharris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    2,440
    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    Here is an example.

    Left tire is rear at about 330 mile and right is a front at 915 miles.
    Shocking fast wear in my opinion, I expect 2 to 3 times that from tires.
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  34. #34
    Got a suspension fork
    Reputation: randyharris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    2,440
    Quote Originally Posted by Raybum View Post
    2.4 x-king for comparison.
    I think the 2.4" mountain king is the way to go for front, not x-king. I've got a 2.4 MK at at home if you want to check it out.
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Well for now I am considering the following.

    Spec - Ground Control 2.1 or 2.3 in 2bliss casing - Not sure on size yet, but figure cost will be $55 are most LBS

    Conti - X king - 2.1 or 2.4 in Protection Black Chilli or Race Sport $50 or $43
    Cont - Mtn King - 2.2 or 2.4 Protection Black Chilli or Race Sport $60 or $50

    These seem to have been given some good wear ratings per magazine tests and from some riders here. Not sure exactly what to get or which size though

    CST Camber 2.25 $30 is the wild card. Cheap and at 630 grams not heavy....
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  36. #36
    Got a suspension fork
    Reputation: randyharris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    2,440
    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    Well for now I am considering the following.

    Spec - Ground Control 2.1 or 2.3 in 2bliss casing - Not sure on size yet, but figure cost will be $55 are most LBS

    Conti - X king - 2.1 or 2.4 in Protection Black Chilli or Race Sport $50 or $43
    Cont - Mtn King - 2.2 or 2.4 Protection Black Chilli or Race Sport $60 or $50

    These seem to have been given some good wear ratings per magazine tests and from some riders here. Not sure exactly what to get or which size though

    CST Camber 2.25 $30 is the wild card. Cheap and at 630 grams not heavy....
    Joe, fwiw, I like the look of the Ground Control, but I would recommend the GRID version for better sidewall protection. I've got a new Conti MK w/Protection for a future front, and a new Maxxis Ikon 3C EXO TR for rear - but haven't run either of those yet.
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Quote Originally Posted by randyharris View Post
    Shocking fast wear in my opinion, I expect 2 to 3 times that from tires.
    Yeah, That is why I am looking at new rear to replace the nobby nic. I am happy with thier performance, but not the life. 900 miles on front tire is manageable, but the 300 on the rear is just not.

    There is a thread on wheels and tires about tire rolling resistance and at the end there is a test done by a magazine.

    They tested Nobby nic 29x2.25 and it worn down in 60 min vs 270 for the GC, X-king and Mtn King was 480 min. So that seems to show much better life on the GC or Conti tires (black chilli).
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation: metalaficionado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    1,994
    Quote Originally Posted by randyharris View Post
    I think the 2.4" mountain king is the way to go for front, not x-king. I've got a 2.4 MK at at home if you want to check it out.
    sheeet, you can climb up wall with these, they stick like paw of a lizard

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: SSdirt29's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    586
    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    Here is an example.

    Left tire is rear at about 330 mile and right is a front at 915 miles.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG-20131119-00287.jpg 
Views:	1310 
Size:	130.8 KB 
ID:	848396

    Rear tire was replace when center lugs are pretty much gone and causes lots rear slipping when climbing. Front tire was replaced before the C4 race because I did not trust the side lugs to hold any longer in turns. In late September I had what turned into nasty wipe out at Sonoran north when taking a corner fast the front end washed out. Not hurt, but I did get some nasty road rash on my hip that was a pain to take care of and keep dressings on. I rode on the tire a while after this, but was very gentle in the corners. For the C4 race I put a new tire on so I could attack the corners with more confidence. Anyway I am ok with front tire life, but the rear is what is frustrating. Those center lugs just get ground down so fast on the Nobby nic.
    Those tires are scary worn!

    Were these tires on a singlespeed? SS'ing eats rear tires a lot faster in my case. I ride Geax Saguaros front and back on both 26 and 29 bikes. Their not super light but seem to be a decent compromise of weight, handling and toughness. I'm done with tubless for now. I buy tubes with removable cores and add Stans and a little black pepper. Haven't had a flat in a year.

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation: cstem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    2,851
    Joe- one of the reasons you are wearing that tire down so quick is that it is not a hard terrain tire. The knobs on those are tall and the compound is very soft. A desert tire usually has shorter knobs to prevent knob roll (read squirmy feel in turns) and tearing of knobs from leverage on grippy rock. The knobs are also spaced closer together for quicker rolling, but stink for mud. Also- looking at that severe center wear says a couple things. First is tire pressure could be too high, and second is rim profile to narrow causing tire to crown. Old 26 inch wheels were designed around 2.2 tires or less. My recommendation for what you ride and own is Maxxis Larsen TT ran tubeless. They are light, grip like crazy and wear pretty well. I get about 400 out of a rear tire that is quality on my SS, but I am a very smooth climber and rarely skid. Its a style thing. Personally I could care less about how much I spend on a tire. If it works well and keeps me from ending up on my face, that is priceless. Skimp on seatposts.
    Vassago Cycles, Shadetree Bikes, Flat Tire Bikes, Galfer Brakes USA

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation: cstem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    2,851
    OH I forgot to add, you should go speak with Kaolin at Flat Tire Bikes- I have known him for a long time and he is super knowledable. He has also tested prototype tires for some MAJOR manufacturers. Offer to by him a coffee at Big Earls and I will even bet he gives you a discount!
    Vassago Cycles, Shadetree Bikes, Flat Tire Bikes, Galfer Brakes USA

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation: armourbl's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    286
    I don't have a lot of experience since the only tires I've tried are the Ground Controls. If it weren't for a tear in a sidewall, I would have gotten more than a year out of my first rear. I replaced it with another and still going strong. I run tubeless. I just carry a spare tube to get me out of a messy situation like that. Otherwise, no flats or issues. Refreshing the fluid sucks sometimes, but I've started keeping the wheels in the house which seems to help keep the fluid from drying too quickly, especially in the summer.

    I may try something new when these wear out. Still on the same front with two years now, but I'm also not too rough on my tires or that fast of a rider.

    ben

  43. #43
    Village Newbie
    Reputation: SlickWilly8019's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    79

    I ride a 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    I am strongly considering a change to tubeless. Plan would be to go with proper Stans Kit with rim strip. Pricey at $68, but I don't want to burp a tire if possible and do not have the budget for new wheels. Really I am sick of getting flats. I have never been able to complete the BCT little pan whole enchilada route without a flat and tube change and on Sunday got flat on BCT just after the Humphries hill climb. I had to change it in the little wash area after that descent and had another 15 miles to ride. Plus with my C4 race with tire going down at the top of 3rd climb. No pinch flats lately, but just cactus flats. I run 30psi front and 35 psi rear so I don't expect much change with tubeless, but just hope to not have change tube mid ride.

    So on the fast track vs GC is change due to the grip of GC because it sounds like fast tracks were working good for you?
    If you do 2bliss conversion forget the presta valve they are a PITA to monkey with, there is a thread on the AZ board that has 949 valves that are still schraders. I have presta's now and they are the biggest pain the butt to fill up with the compressor. I have to fight them and those idiotic adapters everytime I have to fill up on air, or use the Co2 inflator on the trail.

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Ok

    So my plan now is to go with X-king in rear. Protection sidewall. Not sure on tire size.

    Current Nobby Nic is 26x2.25 (590 gms) size front and rear. My front is still in great shape so I will be keeping that for a while.
    So rear options are
    X-King 26x2.2 ProTech Black Chilli - 570 grams
    X-King 26x2.4 ProTech Black Chilli - 620 grams

    I am hearing these X-kings run narrow so should I get the 2.4 for a rear tire or the 2.2?


    Also Ray,
    I decide to do some tube patching over the weekend and patched up 6 tubes. I did one with Stans inside(enlarged the thorn hole and patched) and left it deflated. It will be my number 1 spare tube when I get my next flat and I will see how it goes. Might change to tubeless some time in January. Depends on how long these tubes last me.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  45. #45
    Got a suspension fork
    Reputation: randyharris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    2,440
    I took the Mountain King w/Protection 2.4" in front and Ikon 3C EXO 2.2" in rear out this weekend for the maiden voyage.

    Odd in that I used the standard PSI which I normally run when starting off with new tires, 24 front and 27 rear and it felt really, I mean really, over inflated.

    They both gripped well but didn't feel right regarding PSI, will lower them for tomorrow's ride and see how they feel then.

    btw - Conti MTB tires run narrow than they state, so the 2.4" isn't a true 2.4", good sized front tire to me, not too big.
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  46. #46
    ...
    Reputation: dtownmtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,270
    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    Ok

    So my plan now is to go with X-king in rear. Protection sidewall. Not sure on tire size.

    Current Nobby Nic is 26x2.25 (590 gms) size front and rear. My front is still in great shape so I will be keeping that for a while.
    So rear options are
    X-King 26x2.2 ProTech Black Chilli - 570 grams
    X-King 26x2.4 ProTech Black Chilli - 620 grams

    I am hearing these X-kings run narrow so should I get the 2.4 for a rear tire or the 2.2?


    Also Ray,
    I decide to do some tube patching over the weekend and patched up 6 tubes. I did one with Stans inside(enlarged the thorn hole and patched) and left it deflated. It will be my number 1 spare tube when I get my next flat and I will see how it goes. Might change to tubeless some time in January. Depends on how long these tubes last me.

    I run x-king (with Protection) with 2.2 in back and 2.4 in front. I like that combo, but others may differ.

    Also, I've found this tire to be inconsistent. They roll and grip well, but durability is a crap shoot. I had a rear tire last through AZT300 (where many beefier tires got slashes) and a few months of riding afterward. I was quite pleased. However, the one that replaced it has not been as durable and has lugs ripping off all over. I'm not sure if it is a sourcing issue or what, but I'm trying something cheaper next time.

  47. #47
    Got a suspension fork
    Reputation: randyharris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    2,440
    Quote Originally Posted by dtownmtb View Post
    Also, I've found this tire to be inconsistent. They roll and grip well, but durability is a crap shoot. I had a rear tire last through AZT300 (where many beefier tires got slashes) and a few months of riding afterward. I was quite pleased. However, the one that replaced it has not been as durable and has lugs ripping off all over. I'm not sure if it is a sourcing issue or what, but I'm trying something cheaper next time.
    By chance did you notice if they were made in the same country? I think some Conti's are from Germany and others from Asia, but not sure about that.
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  48. #48
    ...
    Reputation: dtownmtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,270
    Yeah, someone told Nancy that they had some issues with tires sourced outside of Germany and that they are all being made in Germany now.

    The ones that are not holding up well were a "really good" deal that a certain singlespeed endurance junkie turned me on to. Perhaps they were part of that older batch.
    If it seems too good to be true...

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    I have heard that only ones to consider are the Black Chili versions which are only made in Germany. I have seen other "X-kings" at lower prices, but not black chili versions. So who knows. It is also possible that old rubber will chunk more easily as I know rubber ages over time and does perform as well as newer rubber. So the good deal could have been a stash of 2 year tires that have dried out some.
    Last edited by JoePAz; 12-02-2013 at 11:20 AM.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  50. #50
    Ahhh the pain....
    Reputation: Raybum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    2,282
    Quote Originally Posted by dtownmtb View Post
    Yeah, someone told Nancy that they had some issues with tires sourced outside of Germany and that they are all being made in Germany now.

    The ones that are not holding up well were a "really good" deal that a certain singlespeed endurance junkie turned me on to. Perhaps they were part of that older batch.
    If it seems too good to be true...
    Hmmm... that sucks. I'll have to look at mine and see if there's some indication where they were made. The one I used for the flag to GC ride (that I cut and later fixed) went a good 600+ miles. I've got another one in a semi-worn state that seems OK(no signs of premature death). I've still got 2 unused conti x-kings w prot; one of which I mounted but it had a bad wobble (yes, it was seated on the rim). It might be going back to the seller. I've found a different tire that I'm trying that is cheaper...but I ain't recommending it yet.
    ┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐
    http://onegear-ray.blogspot.com/

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation: stevland's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    618
    Good luck figuring it out. The way I understood it, Germany passed a law recently that a "made in Germany" stamp had to encompass the whole process -- design thru production. Without an mfr date you're probably sol.

  52. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation: metalaficionado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    1,994
    My packaging has a sign: "HANDMADE IN GERMANY" superimposed on a GERMAN FLAG, and the black chili compound.



    Germans usually don't produce crap... except music

  53. #53
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,307

    Tire issues - Light, grippy, yet long wearing rear tire - 26" HT?

    Quote Originally Posted by metalaficionado View Post
    My packaging has a sign: "HANDMADE IN GERMANY" superimposed on a GERMAN FLAG, and the black chili compound.



    Germans usually don't produce crap... except music
    Do not trust the packaging. Conti usually uses the same package for every tire, with a sticky label or stamp for the model/size. Has every feature on the box whether or not the tire inside uses it.
    If you do not see a big "Made in Germany" label on the sidewall, it was not made in Germany or use the Black Chili rubber.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  54. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    I got my x-king yesterday. 26x2.4 with protection and black chilli. I will probably mount it up following my ride this weekend. I think my current rear nobby nic has a bit more life in it.

    Weight is 655 grams just under the 660 on the conti website. The sidewalls are noticeably thicker and stiffer than on the old nobby nics I have laying around as emergency back ups. I have been running 35 psi tubed with the nobby nic, but I bet I can run 30 psi tubed on the conti due to the stiffer sidewalls. I probably will try to run this tire tubeless, but not quite yet. I have a stash of 6 patched tubes right now that rather use up than change over just yet.

    I will report back on tire size when mounted and feel on trails.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  55. #55
    Got a suspension fork
    Reputation: randyharris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    2,440
    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    I got my x-king yesterday. 26x2.4 with protection and black chilli. I will probably mount it up following my ride this weekend. I think my current rear nobby nic has a bit more life in it.

    Weight is 655 grams just under the 660 on the conti website. The sidewalls are noticeably thicker and stiffer than on the old nobby nics I have laying around as emergency back ups. I have been running 35 psi tubed with the nobby nic, but I bet I can run 30 psi tubed on the conti due to the stiffer sidewalls. I probably will try to run this tire tubeless, but not quite yet. I have a stash of 6 patched tubes right now that rather use up than change over just yet.

    I will report back on tire size when mounted and feel on trails.
    Not sure how much beefier the 29x2.4 Mountain King on my front is, but I've settled in at 17psi on it, works great, don't think I've come close to dinging the rim after 200 miles of some pretty rough terrain on it.
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  56. #56
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Quote Originally Posted by randyharris View Post
    Not sure how much beefier the 29x2.4 Mountain King on my front is, but I've settled in at 17psi on it, works great, don't think I've come close to dinging the rim after 200 miles of some pretty rough terrain on it.
    Thanks for the tip Randy. 17psi is seeming crazy low. Then again that is for a front 29er tubeless. I am looking at 26 rear tubed still. So I will not be using 17, but probably lower than 35 psi I had settled on with the Nobby nic. First thought is 30 psi. I still have yet to mount the tire. I think I will try to get one more ride out of NN this weekend first.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  57. #57
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Well so far so good. I am 4 rides and 80 miles in to my X-king protection 2.4 rear tire. Happy with grip and I don't notice any weight issues. Side wall durability is good and tread seems to be wearing well. I dropped the rear pressure form 35 psi to 30 psi and it seems to work pretty good.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  58. #58
    Got a suspension fork
    Reputation: randyharris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    2,440
    Update on my tires too, I've got around 450 miles on the 2.4x29 Mountain King w/Protection up front, run it at 17 to 19 psi. Very little wear to witness so far. I didn't care much for this tire at first, but I'm now thinking it's because I was slow to lower the PSI to around 17psi, and I think it has such stiff sidewalls that it was just ill-behaved at higher pressures.

    The Ikon EXO 2.2x29 rear seems to be wearing very well, especially for a tire that had low profile knobbiest to begin with. Running it at around 25 PSI, it also has very stiff sidewalls. I like the tire but not love it. No founded complaints with it, it's solid.
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  59. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation: metalaficionado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    1,994
    Had hard time sealing the contis x-kings on a stan's rim, keeps loosing air

  60. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JoePAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3,683
    Update on my Tires for anyone that cares..

    Ok so this weekend I did Marathon class at MBAA Estrella - Totalled up to 38 miles and that brings me to 146 on rear x-king.
    Those rides have been
    - McDowells - Windgate, Bell
    - trail 100
    - Sonoran
    - Mix pavement/light dirt around anthem
    - Maricopa, Part ot C4 loop in cave creek and rough bits on back side of Go-John
    - Some rock stuff on Daisy Mtn in Anthem
    - Estrella's Comp long loop.

    So a mix of some rock stuff and some smoother bits. Anyway rear tire has held up well. I still have lots of tread depth. With the nobby nic over this same terrain it would be looking rather bad now, but I would still push it another 150 miles. The x-king shows some signs of wear, but I am pretty sure will last much longer. Grip is acceptable in that I don't really notice any loss of traction.

    I run tubed so I run higher pressures than most, but moved from 35 psi on old Nobby Nic 2.25 to 30 psi on 2.4 x-king protection. The protection side walls make the carcass as bit stiffer so less pressure works better. No pinch flats so that is good.

    I did get a couple thorn flats from my Daisy Mtn Loop in anthem which is not surprising given the type little used barely there trail that exists there. So for the race I swapped both tubes and put in "Stans tubes". Basiclly I follow Raybum's advice to take a normal tube and put 4oz of Stans in them (holed, injected and patched). I ran one in front and rear at MBAA race and both tires seem to be hold up perfect. So far it seems like possible intermediate step to running tubeless.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  61. #61
    In the rear with the beer
    Reputation: bigdudecycling's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    1,315
    I still stand by Small Block 8's for riding in and around the valley. I go a little meatier if I head up north, but the SB8 have low rolling resistance and I think grip pretty well for a xc tire. Plus now, they have basically an economy version which doesn't have as good of rubber but same pattern if you want to save a couple bucks. Also comes in tubeless if you go that route.
    Salvation Outdoor
    "Take it Outside...Again!!!"

Similar Threads

  1. Durable rear tire?
    By chomxxo in forum XC Racing and Training
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-04-2013, 10:48 AM
  2. Durable Rear Tire in the Rocks.
    By Haymarket in forum 29er Components
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-03-2013, 04:48 PM
  3. Whats YOUR favorite 29" light Trail Rear Tire?
    By Ace5high in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 04-20-2013, 06:03 PM
  4. Durable Rear Tire-UST 26"
    By masterp2 in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 10-20-2012, 06:20 AM
  5. Burly rear tire suggestions - light DH tire?
    By TwoHeadsBrewing in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-20-2012, 01:33 PM

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •