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  1. #1
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    Tire issues - Light, grippy, yet long wearing rear tire - 26" HT?

    Guys,
    Looking for some feed back on rear tires for a 26" Hardtail.

    I have been using Nobby Nic 26x2.25 in the lower priced Performance Line compound and like the weight (590 grams) and overall grip in all conditions. What I don't like is the life. I get about 280-340 miles on rear tire before I wear down the center nobs to nothing.

    Front I use the same tire and got 915 miles on that font tire. For me that lasted me a year so I am happy with that kind of life in the front.

    So what are my options for a tire that will last longer on the rear. These are $40 tire from Jensen USA so not terrible expensive, but I hate going through a rear tire every 300 miles. I have no issues with rips or tears for the most part and don't ride much on pavement.

    Most riding is loose rocky terrain so I want something with some bite to deal with soft dirt and loose rocks, but I don't want a ton of rolling resistance for occasion races I run.

    So any advice? Remember I ride 26" so I need a tire that is offered in that size.

    Thanks.
    Joe
    2003 KHS Alite 4000 26" Hardtail - XC, All mountain, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  2. #2
    Give it a crank
    Reputation: Mtn-Rider's Avatar
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    Advice? Sure, you know what tire threads here turn into...

  3. #3
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    My advice: Buy Local.
    Nobody gives a s#$t you singlespeed.

  4. #4
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    I had good luck with ground controls on the back, lasting twice that. 2.1 is all I needed.
    That's on a 29er.
    26 2.1 GC's weight is 585gm. Or with extra 15 gm you can get the grid 2bliss and bulletproof the sidewall.

  5. #5
    Go Speed Racer
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    I recently discovered the Maxxis Ikon EXO EXC (the EXO/EXC version makes a difference), Light, Grippy, wear well, but... NOT CHEAP! So far this is the best tire I have run out here.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbdennis View Post
    I recently discovered the Maxxis Ikon EXO EXC (the EXO/EXC version makes a difference), Light, Grippy, wear well, but... NOT CHEAP! So far this is the best tire I have run out here.

    So how many miles?

    Goal is 600 miles at least for any rear tire. For some reason I feel like wear down my rear faster that most, but I am not sure if just the Nobby Nic or me. I am getting a solid life from the front Nobby Nic, but due most guys go through 3 rear tires for 1 front tire? I am not a big guy, have massive power or really ride nasty trails so I find it odd that wear through those rear lug so easily. I also don't skid the rear tire on descents.
    Joe
    2003 KHS Alite 4000 26" Hardtail - XC, All mountain, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  7. #7
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    i love ground conrols... and I want so badly to keep using them... but I have had 3 sidewall tears with them in the past 6 months...

    I am still searching... my new tire that I am trying out is the WTB Bronson. Not too heavy and I bought it at REI, so I have that insurance in case of a sidewall tear... So far so good with that one...
    Below Par on the Gnar

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MtbAZ44 View Post
    i love ground conrols... and I want so badly to keep using them... but I have had 3 sidewall tears with them in the past 6 months...

    I am still searching... my new tire that I am trying out is the WTB Bronson. Not too heavy and I bought it at REI, so I have that insurance in case of a sidewall tear... So far so good with that one...
    Bronson is great as a front tire, but not sure I'd recommend it for a rear, especially a HT.
    Nobody gives a s#$t you singlespeed.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MtbAZ44 View Post
    i love ground conrols... and I want so badly to keep using them... but I have had 3 sidewall tears with them in the past 6 months...

    I am still searching... my new tire that I am trying out is the WTB Bronson. Not too heavy and I bought it at REI, so I have that insurance in case of a sidewall tear... So far so good with that one...
    that's why spesh just came out with GC grid 2bliss

  10. #10
    PMP,TAN,LAUNDRY
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    Good argument against the GC which is why is just run minions for both xc and dh out here in AZ. per bike radar. Full link-http://www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/gear/category/components/tyres/mountain/product/review-specialized-ground-control-tire-12-46627/
    "Traction on bare rock was confidence inspiring as well, but sun-baked hardpack and loose conditions are where we found the Ground Control a little lacking (in fairness, most tires struggle here). In those conditions, the rounded profile didn't provide as much of a shelf to lean on as a more squared-off tread, and the Ground Control's otherwise predictable drift characteristics were harder to catch once it broke loose."
    Bender to AZDog: I'm not the best person to give advice on not riding!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    Guys,
    Looking for some feed back on rear tires for a 26" Hardtail.

    I have been using Nobby Nic 26x2.25 in the lower priced Performance Line compound and like the weight (590 grams) and overall grip in all conditions. What I don't like is the life. I get about 280-340 miles on rear tire before I wear down the center nobs to nothing.

    Front I use the same tire and got 915 miles on that font tire. For me that lasted me a year so I am happy with that kind of life in the front.

    So what are my options for a tire that will last longer on the rear. These are $40 tire from Jensen USA so not terrible expensive, but I hate going through a rear tire every 300 miles. I have no issues with rips or tears for the most part and don't ride much on pavement.

    Most riding is loose rocky terrain so I want something with some bite to deal with soft dirt and loose rocks, but I don't want a ton of rolling resistance for occasion races I run.

    So any advice? Remember I ride 26" so I need a tire that is offered in that size.

    Thanks.
    I have been running Maxxis Crossmarks on both my 29ers with over 500 miles and still some tread to go. I got these cause they are cheaper than the Ikons which are my all time favorite 29er rear tire.

    I used to run Maxxis Larsen TTs on my 26er and loved them especially as a rear tire. Super fast rolling, great traction and the LUST version were bullet proof. I don't know if they still make those but I liked them quite a bit.

  12. #12
    Pivotal figure
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    I used to run Maxxis Ignitors for this exact reason. They have enough rubber to give a decent wear life but still roll fast and have decent grip. Not sure about getting 600 miles since I never get that out of anything (but I ride rocky stuff all the time).
    Desert Sunset Calls/Upward, Pain, Perseverance/Welcome Solitude

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by metalaficionado View Post
    I had good luck with ground controls on the back, lasting twice that. 2.1 is all I needed.
    That's on a 29er.
    26 2.1 GC's weight is 585gm. Or with extra 15 gm you can get the grid 2bliss and bulletproof the sidewall.
    Bart,
    I am thinking strongly of going with you suggestion. From my research it appears that tread wise the nobby nic and ground control are very similar That should me similar handling. Weight are similar as well and since we run many of the same trails I would think I should get good life from them.

    Since I run tubes I don't need to worry about sidewall leaks, but I am consider going tubeless. I just don't want change my rims. I am running some Mavic's from 2003 I can't for the life of me remember which wheel model rim, but I think it was mid range model with rim brakes. It was laced to XT hubs front and rear from where I bought it. Anyway not sure if I can go tubeless on that wheel.

    Anyway the question is 2.1 or 2.3 and Std Control Casing or Grid 2bliss. I don't like that 650 g on 2.3 Grid 2bliss, but the 2.1 stg control at 585 is nice. The 2.1 Grid 2bliss seems like the perfect choice at 600 grams, but will it seem narrow compared to 2.25 nobby nic? $55 is a little steep, but if I can get twice the miles on center lugs it is worth it.

    Hmm....
    Last edited by JoePAz; 11-19-2013 at 12:12 PM.
    Joe
    2003 KHS Alite 4000 26" Hardtail - XC, All mountain, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  14. #14
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    try a panaracer fire XC pro in the 2.1 size. I really like'em.light weight, roll great, grip great, and hold up well. I'm running one on the rear right now. be sure to get the higher tpi made in Taiwan version. oh, and you will love the price!
    RAM speed: UP, UP, and away....!

  15. #15
    Give it a crank
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    300 miles out of a tire can be different things to different riders:

    1) Plenty of miles out a tire for a racer using it for only one race
    2) Not a bad tire for an aggressive rider tearing up grippy tires on sharp rocks
    3) Ok tire for a rider leaving skid marks all over town
    4) Just a plain bad tire if the knobs start falling off after 50 miles

    Riding style and terrain are the two things that eat tires, easing up on riding style makes tires last a lot longer. Particulary if you're a skidder, you can see how much longer tires last by not skidding anymore, big difference.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mtn-Rider View Post
    300 miles out of a tire can be different things to different riders:

    ...

    Riding style and terrain are the two things that eat tires, easing up on riding style makes tires last a lot longer. Particulary if you're a skidder, you can see how much longer tires last by not skidding anymore, big difference.
    I understand that. For the most part I don't skid. I believe all my wear comes from climbing. As for terrain. I ride BCT, Marciopa and Spur Cross where there is alot loose rocks. However little in the way of really sharp rocks like PMP or massive granite climbs like National. I also ride Sonoran North and South which is quite smooth and Deems. In the past 18 months I have gone through 2 Nobby Nic's in front and 4 in the back. Only the first set which were take offs did I have any ripping off of lugs or slices. I got my front new Nobby Nic to last 900 miles and tossed it when the front edge lugs were just too worn down. I could have gotten more miles from it, but since I had a the C4 race coming I put it on the front to ensure good cornering performance.

    In the rear I am on my 4th tire and the all wear down the same way. Center lugs are slowly chewed up. They lose the edges and slowly get worn down to rounded nubs rather than lugs. These nubs then can't get grip when climbing steep and somewhat loose terrain. I have not sliced a nobby nic or damaged the side walls. Just worn down the center lugs on the to the point there is nothing other than a slick tire. Not sure why I do this.
    Joe
    2003 KHS Alite 4000 26" Hardtail - XC, All mountain, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  17. #17
    DLd
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    I don't skid either, and I go through rear tires at a pretty good clip. If you hit the corners fast on our loose downhills it really eats out the inner edge of the outer knobs pretty quick. Climbing on steep loose rocky stuff, where you're fighting for traction seems to wear the center knobs pretty quickly. I imagine any significant braking in our rocky terrain, even without skidding, takes its toll as well. In reply to your earlier question, yes going through 2-3 rear tires per front tire out here is pretty normal for Phoenix riding.
    "Great things are not accomplished by those who yield to trends and fads and popular opinion."-Jack Kerouac

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    Bart,
    I am thinking strongly of going with you suggestion. From my research it appears that tread wise the nobby nic and ground control are very similar That should me similar handling. Weight are similar as well and since we run many of the same trails I would think I should get good life from them.

    Since I run tubes I don't need to worry about sidewall leaks, but I am consider going tubeless. I just don't want change my rims. I am running some Mavic's from 2003 I can't for the life of me remember which wheel model rim, but I think it was mid range model with rim brakes. It was laced to XT hubs front and rear from where I bought it. Anyway not sure if I can go tubeless on that wheel.

    Anyway the question is 2.1 or 2.3 and Std Control Casing or Grid 2bliss. I don't like that 650 g on 2.3 Grid 2bliss, but the 2.1 stg control at 585 is nice. The 2.1 Grid 2bliss seems like the perfect choice at 600 grams, but will it seem narrow compared to 2.25 nobby nic? $55 is a little steep, but if I can get twice the miles on center lugs it is worth it.

    Hmm....
    didn't know you run with tubes, spesh makes all their mtb tires tubeless which is more pricey
    I also use 29 inch... not sure now if all my tire experience applies to you now,
    bigger wheels with tubeless setup - different ball game from 26er with tubes

    I ran FastTracks 2.2 grids 29er on the back now, they give me good volume and man do they roll fast. I took them thru C4, picket post punisher, bct, etc. - no sign of wear.
    They are not as grippy but I like looser tires in the back - especially descending tight switchback. Uphill, it's all about right gearing and weight shifting.
    and at 650 gm is worth... although I may go back to GC's.

    BTW, I wanted to try continental x-kings, but they would mount on my cheap rims.

  19. #19
    1 bike to ride them all
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    Guys,
    Looking for some feed back on rear tires for a 26" Hardtail.

    I have been using Nobby Nic 26x2.25 in the lower priced Performance Line compound and like the weight (590 grams) and overall grip in all conditions. What I don't like is the life. I get about 280-340 miles on rear tire before I wear down the center nobs to nothing.

    Front I use the same tire and got 915 miles on that font tire. For me that lasted me a year so I am happy with that kind of life in the front.

    So what are my options for a tire that will last longer on the rear. These are $40 tire from Jensen USA so not terrible expensive, but I hate going through a rear tire every 300 miles. I have no issues with rips or tears for the most part and don't ride much on pavement.

    Most riding is loose rocky terrain so I want something with some bite to deal with soft dirt and loose rocks, but I don't want a ton of rolling resistance for occasion races I run.

    So any advice? Remember I ride 26" so I need a tire that is offered in that size.

    Thanks.
    Continental Trail King 2.2.

    - They come in regular and tubeless the "race sport" tire weighs 660 grams
    - They are made with Black Chili rubber compound which in my experience has outlasted every other compound out there yet still has a grippy durameter!?
    - They have rediculous grip on loose and rocky surfaces as well as wet roots
    - They are not the most expensive nor cheapest tires out there but...

    When you buy the best you only cry once.

    Support your local bike shop bro!

    CB

  20. #20
    Ahhh the pain....
    Reputation: Raybum's Avatar
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    I'm always looking for a better rear tire. I typically get 500-700 miles out of each and at the number of miles I ride, find I'm putting a new tire on about every 2 months. I ran the old Michelin Wild Racers for a couple years and loved them...cheap($26), durable and 700 gms (29r). Then they changed the design and the new ones suck. Now I'm using conti x kings w the protection sidewalls and they seem ok. On sale, about $42 each...
    I did just order one of these CAMBER C1671| Mountain Bike Tires | CST Tires in the foldable version. Less than $30... Hoping it's gonna hold up well although at 660 grams, I'm a little afraid the sidewalls might be thin...we'll see.
    In the front, hard to beat the panaracer rampage although I am going to try a 2.4 x-king for comparison.
    Your limits are both physical and mental. Suffering will help you find and overcome both.
    http://onegear-ray.blogspot.com/

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by DLd View Post
    I don't skid either, and I go through rear tires at a pretty good clip. If you hit the corners fast on our loose downhills it really eats out the inner edge of the outer knobs pretty quick. Climbing on steep loose rocky stuff, where you're fighting for traction seems to wear the center knobs pretty quickly. I imagine any significant braking in our rocky terrain, even without skidding, takes its toll as well. In reply to your earlier question, yes going through 2-3 rear tires per front tire out here is pretty normal for Phoenix riding.

    Here is an example.

    Left tire is rear at about 330 mile and right is a front at 915 miles.
    Tire issues - Light, grippy, yet long wearing rear tire - 26" HT?-img-20131119-00287.jpg

    Rear tire was replace when center lugs are pretty much gone and causes lots rear slipping when climbing. Front tire was replaced before the C4 race because I did not trust the side lugs to hold any longer in turns. In late September I had what turned into nasty wipe out at Sonoran north when taking a corner fast the front end washed out. Not hurt, but I did get some nasty road rash on my hip that was a pain to take care of and keep dressings on. I rode on the tire a while after this, but was very gentle in the corners. For the C4 race I put a new tire on so I could attack the corners with more confidence. Anyway I am ok with front tire life, but the rear is what is frustrating. Those center lugs just get ground down so fast on the Nobby nic.
    Joe
    2003 KHS Alite 4000 26" Hardtail - XC, All mountain, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by metalaficionado View Post
    didn't know you run with tubes, spesh makes all their mtb tires tubeless which is more pricey
    I also use 29 inch... not sure now if all my tire experience applies to you now,
    bigger wheels with tubeless setup - different ball game from 26er with tubes

    I ran FastTracks 2.2 grids 29er on the back now, they give me good volume and man do they roll fast. I took them thru C4, picket post punisher, bct, etc. - no sign of wear.
    They are not as grippy but I like looser tires in the back - especially descending tight switchback. Uphill, it's all about right gearing and weight shifting.
    and at 650 gm is worth... although I may go back to GC's.
    I am strongly considering a change to tubeless. Plan would be to go with proper Stans Kit with rim strip. Pricey at $68, but I don't want to burp a tire if possible and do not have the budget for new wheels. Really I am sick of getting flats. I have never been able to complete the BCT little pan whole enchilada route without a flat and tube change and on Sunday got flat on BCT just after the Humphries hill climb. I had to change it in the little wash area after that descent and had another 15 miles to ride. Plus with my C4 race with tire going down at the top of 3rd climb. No pinch flats lately, but just cactus flats. I run 30psi front and 35 psi rear so I don't expect much change with tubeless, but just hope to not have change tube mid ride.

    So on the fast track vs GC is change due to the grip of GC because it sounds like fast tracks were working good for you?
    Joe
    2003 KHS Alite 4000 26" Hardtail - XC, All mountain, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raybum View Post
    I'm always looking for a better rear tire. .. Now I'm using conti x kings w the protection sidewalls and they seem ok. On sale, about $42 each...
    I did just order one of these CAMBER C1671| Mountain Bike Tires | CST Tires in the foldable version. Less than $30... ...
    Ray,
    Going to consider these as well. Less than $30 is nice and make replacing a tire frequently a possibility.
    Last edited by JoePAz; 11-20-2013 at 06:39 AM.
    Joe
    2003 KHS Alite 4000 26" Hardtail - XC, All mountain, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  24. #24
    Ahhh the pain....
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    Joe, tubeless is definitely the way to go. Never a worry about thorns or the like...just sidewall cuts. Even that being the case, you will have fewer issues.
    When I first ran tubeless on some old 26" wheels, I just used gorilla tape to seal up the spoke holes and then a old presta valve cut from a tube. Never had a burping issue, but I know the stans strips are meant to fill that gap bead making them a bit more burp proof.
    The other thing I did before converting to tubeless was inject my tubes with stans. Pretty easy if you have removable valve cores...in my case, I simply punctured the tube, squirted in a few oz, and patched it. Worked great. That would at least make you less susceptible to thorns.
    Your limits are both physical and mental. Suffering will help you find and overcome both.
    http://onegear-ray.blogspot.com/

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raybum View Post
    Never a worry about thorns or the like
    Except when you forget to refresh your sealant. And you will forget. It dries out pretty fast here in AZ. The solution is to carry one of the little bottles of sealant and a valve core remover. It only takes a couple of minutes to remove the core, squirt in half a bottle of sealant, install the core, pump the tire and go. Easier and quicker than changing a tube.

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