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  1. #1
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    Official AZ Tire Thread

    I've been on the AZ forum for a while and it seems like there are not many tire discussions. So I thought I'd get it started.
    I've been running Saguaro out front and AKA in the back (29") without much issue and seems to be a good/light weight combo.
    Me to my riding buddy, "Want to ride this afternoon?"
    Him, "I can't. I have to chop this guys foot off at 2".

  2. #2
    74 & 29 pilot
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    On my Remedy I run a 2.4 Specialized Purgatory Grid, read a S. Mt. local rec on MTBR, and I love it! On the rear I run Maxxis Highroller 2.35 and like the durability and high speed traction, but I think the ramped center knobs suck on slow technical climbs with big straight edged rocks. The Maxxis Ignitor 2.35 has been a great front and rear tire also, but now prefer a bigger front tire.

    Have a 2.5 Minion F ST on the front of my Session, but not that impressed with the traction in the sandy loose stuff. Have a Specialized Butcher SX on order, also read that it was good by the same AZer on MTBR. Highroller 2.5 on back. I have the new Bontrager 2.35 G4, which is a modified minion F, that came on my Session, but don't think I'll use them much. They are almost as wide as the Minion 2.5, but the weigh 1245 grams a piece! After 6 runs shuttling at S. Mt., the G4 on the rear had outside knobs coming apart.

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  3. #3
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    I love my Butcher DH tires! Best tire I have ever used. The side nobs grab like a freshly sharpened chain saw cutting into wood. Brap!

  4. #4
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    Bontrager 29-3 in rear (29x2.0)
    Bontrager XR3 Team Issue in front (29x2.25)

  5. #5
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    Currently running a Specialized Purgatoty Grid UST 2.4 on front of my Slayer, along with a captain control 2.2 out back. These tires work really good and hold up a long time for me. They take considerable abuse, so far have held up to a steady diet of rocks on SoMo and even out around jacobs crosscut which is tire shredding territory...

    Running the same basic setup on my 29er, both 2.2's (goin to 2.4's next set)

    All tubeless of course


    I like Nevegals fine but they roll slow. Noce grip for SoMo terrain

    I loved the Kenda Excavator, but dont; really see them around, They Roll faster than a Nevegal, and have similar grip and longevity, a tad more volume in the same size perhaps..

    I've tried Maxxis Ardent and did not care for it personally (really slow roller but I hade the wire bead EXO 2.4 carcass, really sticky and tough) Probably great for shuttling, fast wearing..

    WTB Wolverine is a good working back tire, pretty cheap, fast wearing and not too durable. I also notice that in general WTB tires are all over the map in the quality department. Some fit good, others are huge and will pop off the rime with too much air, others wont fit over the rim...Junk IMO...

    I'm pretty much hooked on Specialized tires now...
    Check my pulse...

  6. #6
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    I love my tires! And they are tubeless
    Arrow Racing | Hand Crafted Frames, Components, and Tires

    I'm running the bite right now, I would like to try the launch next

  7. #7
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    Geax AKAs front and rear. Don't have anything to really compare them to, as they came on my first decent MTB. They are nice on loose-over-hard pack, though I fear they'll wear fast.

  8. #8
    How much further ???
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    Im running an Ardent folding 2.4 EXO on the front and love it. Unfortunatly I havent had as good of luck on the rear. Looking for a large volume, good wearing, good sidewall protection in a tire that doesnt weigh 3 lbs like my current GEAX Neuron. Im wondering how a SLant 6 would be for a rear.
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did." Mark Twain

  9. #9
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    I'm using Specialized Captains - control 2.0 up front and 2.1 fast trak in the rear. I like em.

  10. #10
    NedwannaB
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    Ditto

    Quote Originally Posted by razardica View Post
    I'm using Specialized Captains - control 2.0 up front and 2.1 fast trak in the rear. I like em.
    Too funny I had to swithch and do the same since the 2.1 is smaller then the 2.0!
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  11. #11
    Huffy Rider
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    Front: X-King 2.4 Protection at 27lbs. Tubeless
    Rear: Mountain King 2.4 Protection at 25 lbs (new style) Tubeless
    Both work well in Sedona, Flag and Phx. They don't last forever like the Trail Kings, but much lighter!

    Hubby runs Trail Kings UST 2.2 F/R at 28ish tubeless. Awesome traction and wear very well.

    Brenda

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by raisingarizona View Post
    I love my Butcher DH tires! Best tire I have ever used. The side nobs grab like a freshly sharpened chain saw cutting into wood. Brap!
    Good to know. When I've used up the tires on my bike I may try a Butcher up front and Clutch in the back. They look to have potential...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB Pilot View Post
    On my Remedy I run a 2.4 Specialized Purgatory Grid, read a S. Mt. local rec on MTBR, and I love it! On the rear I run Maxxis Highroller 2.35 and like the durability and high speed traction, but I think the ramped center knobs suck on slow technical climbs with big straight edged rocks. The Maxxis Ignitor 2.35 has been a great front and rear tire also, but now prefer a bigger front tire.

    Have a 2.5 Minion F ST on the front of my Session, but not that impressed with the traction in the sandy loose stuff. Have a Specialized Butcher SX on order, also read that it was good by the same AZer on MTBR. Highroller 2.5 on back. I have the new Bontrager 2.35 G4, which is a modified minion F, that came on my Session, but don't think I'll use them much. They are almost as wide as the Minion 2.5, but the weigh 1245 grams a piece! After 6 runs shuttling at S. Mt., the G4 on the rear had outside knobs coming apart.

    MTBP
    How does the 2.4 Purg grid compare size wise to the 2.5 HR? My2,5 HR's are older and they actually are more like a true 2.35 tire. If the 2.4 purg is huge then it might be a bit much for my rear, not to mention my 819's.

  14. #14
    EDR
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    Been running 2.35 Schwalbe Fat Alberts UST on front for a long time. Not in love with it but it works fine in the front. Now have one on the rear as well. Doesn't hook up well on flat rock faces or step ups at SoMo at all. Despite it's looks it just slips way too often, even at real low psi. Works pretty darn good for the damp crushed granite at Hawes today though.

    Have used 2.5 High Rollers in the rear. Really liked how it hooked up at SoMo. I gave up on them though because I was running the wire bead version ghetto tubeless on my UST rim and am just sick and tired of the silly issues with the setup. Back to true UST only for me now. Looking for the next good rear. The Purgatory looks ok but it seems the knobs are small-ish. Ran the Eskar 2Bliss for a while, hooked up ok but didn't last very long, and had small tread pattern. Need something a bit more for National.

    By far the worst tire I've ran in the rear in the past 5 years was the Geax DHEA 2.3 UST. It weighed as much as many DH tires (1200+ grams ) and didn't hook up on anything. HATED that tire and couldn't wait for it wear out...didn't take long either.

  15. #15
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    2.4 Ardent rear, 2.5 Minion DHf in front.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash.
    - Julie Furtado

  16. #16
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    Rant On:
    Tires...I have run just about every tread pattern out there. Most people have their own personal preference as to what their looking for out of a front or rear tire. Some folks don't have a clue and go by whatever their "cool" friend has to say. I personally like a tire, ANY TIRE, that has a tread pattern similar to the Kenda Blue Groove in the front and the Kenda Nevagal for the rear.

    There are many tires out there that will fall into this category and I tend to run the tire that's on sale. For the Pedal bike, I am currently running a 2.5 Intense EX lite Kevlar bead DH on the front (on sale at Jenson for wicked cheap many moons ago-I bought 10) and 2.5 Geax Neuron UST(because it was free) on the rear. And for the DH Rig I have a 2.7 Sticky Kenda Blue Groove on the front and a 2.7 Maxxis Minion 60a on the rear (Also bought on sale at Jenson many moons ago). All tires are set up tubeless on 823's.

    Another thing to consider is tire sizing. Not all tires are created equal. Kenda still has true tire sizing. Maxxis used to but don't anymore, a 2.7 measures more like a 2.5, a 2.5 is like a 2.35 etc.

    Tires that have a similar tread pattern to the Butcher, Highroller, Mobster(anyone remember those?), Neuron, etc. leave little to be desired, because as the tire wears it will leave a large area of no traction due the well built middle row and single row outer edge tread.

    In all the tires I pick out, having a consistent grip from middle all the way to the outer edge is key. Unless they're free
    Rant Off:
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  17. #17
    Shovel Ready
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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    Good to know. When I've used up the tires on my bike I may try a Butcher up front and Clutch in the back. They look to have potential...
    I love the Clutch Control out back. But tonight I cut a side wall. Second one in a little over a month. Think I'll try something a little more stout, maybe a Butcher or the Clutch SX.
    Currently at Mayo Clinic being tested for a kidney transplant. Donors welcome.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cycle64 View Post
    I love the Clutch Control out back. But tonight I cut a side wall. Second one in a little over a month. Think I'll try something a little more stout, maybe a Butcher or the Clutch SX.
    Been there done that with the Speshy Control tires. The sidewalls are just to flimsy or most desert riding long term. Gave up on those as well. GRID looks promising.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride View Post
    Been there done that with the Speshy Control tires. The sidewalls are just to flimsy or most desert riding long term. Gave up on those as well. GRID looks promising.
    Have the Purgatory GRID up front. Be nice to see a Clutch in a GRID. The Clutch SX is 250g heavier. Not sure if that means a tougher sidewall or not. as the sidewall is still a 45a sidewall.
    Currently at Mayo Clinic being tested for a kidney transplant. Donors welcome.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cycle64 View Post
    Have the Purgatory GRID up front. Be nice to see a Clutch in a GRID. The Clutch SX is 250g heavier. Not sure if that means a tougher sidewall or not. as the sidewall is still a 45a sidewall.
    Thread count makes a tire tougher not the rubber compound
    Pumpin & Pimpin

  21. #21
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    Pansies. Dual ply DH casing is the way to go. What's an extra 2 pounds when you're already trying to pedal 200+ up a hill? Nothing, that's what...

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jibro View Post
    Thread count makes a tire tougher not the rubber compound
    If you're talking sidewall..... maybe. If you're talking just rubber....Ummmm.....No. Manu's offer different densities of tread compound, sometimes in the same tire....DTC in Kenda's is the first that comes to mind.

    "Tougher" is such a subjective term.....tough as compared to what? Wear? Resistance to cuts? Semantics suck....but in a conversation such as this, it matters greatly. Please clarify.




  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maadjurguer View Post
    Ummmm.....No. Manu's offer different densities of tread compound, sometimes in the same tire....DTC in Kenda's is the first that comest to mind.
    That's for wear and grip not toughness
    Pumpin & Pimpin

  24. #24
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    [QUOTE=Douger-1. Looking for a large volume, good wearing, good sidewall protection in a tire that doesnt weigh 3 lbs like my current GEAX Neuron. Im wondering how a SLant 6 would be for a rear.[/QUOTE]


    anyone have expREARience with a Kenda slant six on the back?
    RAM speed: UP, UP, and away....!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    Pansies. Dual ply DH casing is the way to go. What's an extra 2 pounds when you're already trying to pedal 200+ up a hill? Nothing, that's what...
    200, I wish.
    Currently at Mayo Clinic being tested for a kidney transplant. Donors welcome.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maadjurguer View Post
    If you're talking sidewall..... maybe. If you're talking just rubber....Ummmm.....No. Manu's offer different densities of tread compound, sometimes in the same tire....DTC in Kenda's is the first that comes to mind.

    "Tougher" is such a subjective term.....tough as compared to what? Wear? Resistance to cuts? Semantics suck....but in a conversation such as this, it matters greatly. Please clarify.
    How you changed your original post with out an edit marker is sly. But I'll quote you again for clarity. The rubber compound "hardness" durometer number has to do with wear, grip, rebound characteristics and rolling resistance, ie, DTC means Dual Tread Compound. Usually this is achieved by layering a softer rubber over a harder. Or some manufacturers run a harder rubber down the middle for wear and softer on the sides for grip. The higher the duro number the harder the rubber ie. 42a is soft, stickier and wears quicker. 60a is harder slipperier and wears longer.

    Thread count has to do with tire structure. And is generally what provides the ability for a tire to not slice all the way thru the core. DH tires have dual layers of thread wrap for stability.
    Pumpin & Pimpin

  27. #27
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    Only tried the Slant6 for a short ride. It's wicked fast but a bit too XCish for my tastes. I'm currently running a Nexcavator up front and Happy Medium on back (Kenda). That combo has been working great for me on all my suspension bikes (even the DH rig ). I've also had great results with the DH casing Small Block 8. Crazy fast but you can still bomb thru rock gardens. The heavier casing lets me run lower pressure which really helps with traction. For my pumptrack/XC setup I'm running a Small Block and Karma combo, tubeless. Fast but tough...
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by woahey View Post
    2.4 Ardent rear, 2.5 Minion DHf in front.
    I've run this and it works great. I want to try some high roller 2s.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jibro View Post
    How you changed your original post with out an edit marker is sly. But I'll quote you again for clarity. The rubber compound "hardness" durometer number has to do with wear, grip, rebound characteristics and rolling resistance, ie, DTC means Dual Tread Compound. Usually this is achieved by layering a softer rubber over a harder. Or some manufacturers run a harder rubber down the middle for wear and softer on the sides for grip. The higher the duro number the harder the rubber ie. 42a is soft, stickier and wears quicker. 60a is harder slipperier and wears longer.

    Thread count has to do with tire structure. And is generally what provides the ability for a tire to not slice all the way thru the core. DH tires have dual layers of thread wrap for stability.
    And you are correct...Not sly....I was editing on the fly as you responded (we were posting at the same time.....stupid forum/non real time format....I digress).......adjectives in such discussions lead to interpretation.... interpretation in such discussions lead to falsehoods. Again....you are correct, thanks for the clarification.




  30. #30
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    As a post script....and in a different entry as to not confuse......"tougher" is a subjective term....as for "rebound"....I regularly ***** to all my friends about "rebound" characteristics of my tires after a ride.....we are consumed by "rebound"......in fact, we almost always buy a new tire based on it's "rebound" characteristics. Can you please quantify for those that are reading here, what "rebound" is and how to measure it?

    I feel like folks are missing out in not understanding what "rebound" in their tire means to them....I'm quite new to this thing and don't ride much....so "rebound" might be something I've yet to feel and are able to express to customers. I feel that I've been too focused on the wear characteristics and grip characteristics of a tire which the tread compound and tread pattern present to me in a certain tire.....much so, that I've overlooked the "rebound" characteristic of a certain tire.

    I realize that "rebound" in some circles means the ability of a material to "push" back against a puncture.....but that to me is just fancy gobblieguuk for density.....




  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maadjurguer View Post
    As a post script....and in a different entry as to not confuse......"tougher" is a subjective term....as for "rebound"....I regularly ***** to all my friends about "rebound" characteristics of my tires after a ride.....we are consumed by "rebound"......in fact, we almost always buy a new tire based on it's "rebound" characteristics. Can you please quantify for those that are reading here, what "rebound" is and how to measure it?

    I feel like folks are missing out in not understanding what "rebound" in their tire means to them....I'm quite new to this thing and don't ride much....so "rebound" might be something I've yet to feel and are able to express to customers. I feel that I've been too focused on the wear characteristics and grip characteristics of a tire which the tread compound and tread pattern present to me in a certain tire.....much so, that I've overlooked the "rebound" characteristic of a certain tire.

    I realize that "rebound" in some circles means the ability of a material to "push" back against a puncture.....but that to me is just fancy gobblieguuk for density.....
    What you want to do is, bite off a piece of knob and chew it for a while. If it has the consistency of Hubba Bubba, then it has slow rebound. If the consistency is more like Wrigley's then the rebound is faster.

    Since your "quite new to this thing" you might want to wash it off from all the mud you accumulated on your "don't ride much" excursions.

    Hope this helps when your with your "customers".
    Pumpin & Pimpin

  32. #32
    PMP,TAN,LAUNDRY
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    minions front and back. done. I have always gone back to this combo. Never buy whats on sale cheap, its cheap for a reason.
    Bender to AZDog: I'm not the best person to give advice on not riding!

  33. #33
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    I have been using the WTB Dissents in the 29er variety out here and besides being a tough tire to get tubeless on my rims it is a really fantastic tire for Tucson trails. It has absolutely terrific grip on almost everything from loose baby head climbs to gravel over rock. The tread is really blocky with slow rebound (soft) and a thick casing. Having finally tore a sidewall on a tire I swapped these back on and aside from weighing twice what the rampage weighed they have instill a sense of suspension to my bike, almost like having a couple of inches front and back and they grip like hell.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockcrusher View Post
    I have been using the WTB Dissents in the 29er variety out here and besides being a tough tire to get tubeless on my rims it is a really fantastic tire for Tucson trails. It has absolutely terrific grip on almost everything from loose baby head climbs to gravel over rock. The tread is really blocky with slow rebound (soft) and a thick casing. Having finally tore a sidewall on a tire I swapped these back on and aside from weighing twice what the rampage weighed they have instill a sense of suspension to my bike, almost like having a couple of inches front and back and they grip like hell.
    They make bikes with suspension, you know? Don't have to rely on tires for that

    I've been running a Dissent DH on my rear with a Prowler up front and can't complain. But, in all honesty, I probably wouldn't complain 'cause if a tire doesn't grip or I fall over it's usually my fault. I have to get a LOT better at this before I start worrying much about my tires. With that said I probably haven't used any really bad tires so don't have a lot to compare...

  35. #35
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    I keep end up going with a Weirwolf in the back and a Small Block 8 in the front. works great on everything for me.
    "There's nothing like touching earth you've never touched"

  36. #36
    How much further ???
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    Quote Originally Posted by woahey View Post
    2.4 Ardent rear, 2.5 Minion DHf in front.
    How is the Ardent wearing in the rear? My Slayer came with a single ply Ardent 2.1 in the rear and it was shredded and worn flat in a month or so. My 2.4 Ardent up front is holding up well but its a front vs rear. Just curious.
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did." Mark Twain

  37. #37
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    No wonder the first Minion of the batch 3 I bought on sale for cheap from Jenson sliced right down the middle second trail ride on it. If only I had paid full price it would have lasted much longer!
    Pumpin & Pimpin

  38. #38
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    I'm an idiot.
    Read a couple posts down by Woahey
    Last edited by Mike H.; 12-22-2011 at 08:40 AM.
    My bike, Slayer 70

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jibro View Post
    What you want to do is, bite off a piece of knob and chew it for a while. If it has the consistency of Hubba Bubba, then it has slow rebound. If the consistency is more like Wrigley's then the rebound is faster.

    Since your "quite new to this thing" you might want to wash it off from all the mud you accumulated on your "don't ride much" excursions.

    Hope this helps when your with your "customers".
    I'm chewin right now, but I think I pulled a filling out....the DTC compound is both wrigleys and hubba bubba.....so does that cancel things out and make it neutral rebound.....or salt water taffy?




  40. #40
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    For flat out x/c racing I like the 2.1 WTB Nano-Raptor.
    For Shuttles on SoMo I like 2.5 Maxxis Minions front and rear dedicated versions.
    For super long (for me) rides with nothing extreme taking place I like 2.35 Maxxis Larson’s.
    For a combination of a/m-ish and x/c-ish rides I like the Conti Mountain Kings, 2.4 front, 2.2 rear.

    I do not have extensive tire experience, but when I have no complaints of a tire when using it for the application I have selected it, I tend not to run out and sample something else.
    My bike, Slayer 70

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike H. View Post
    Of course the "knobs" original design factors in flex, but does it rebound during it’s time in contact with the ground to continue to be predictable.
    I may sound really dumb here, but if the tread lug touches the ground, flexes, and returns to its original position before leaving the ground, wouldn't that be more UNpredictable?

    I would think that the more the tread lug moves between you and the dirt, the more the traction would be compromised. I understand that the flex is what helps provide traction and all but wouldn't it be better if the lugs didn't snap back into position until they were leaving the ground?
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash.
    - Julie Furtado

  42. #42
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    Been running a Graffiti UK from WTB.. its a dirt jump/street tire. Turned it around backwards and it does great. No major slipping that wouldnt slip my old nev. Rolls faster to boot

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by woahey View Post
    I may sound really dumb here, but if the tread lug touches the ground, flexes, and returns to its original position before leaving the ground, wouldn't that be more UNpredictable?
    Yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by woahey View Post
    I would think that the more the tread lug moves between you and the dirt, the more the traction would be compromised. I understand that the flex is what helps provide traction and all but wouldn't it be better if the lugs didn't snap back into position until they were leaving the ground?
    Correct again.
    I have edited my original post... doh.
    My bike, Slayer 70

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike H. View Post
    Yes.


    Correct again.
    I have edited my original post... doh.
    I hate it when I say the opposite of what I mean...
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash.
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  45. #45
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    good read

    I'm looking for feedback on the maxxis 2.4 single plys when run UST- how well does the bead hook work on the non ust tires when used UST on a stans rim? Also curious on more details on Fat albert non UST when run ghetto, as well as the single ply 2.5 minions. Seems many folks run these ghetto, and being 'new' to the area-in the last year I have worn out all the tires I came here with, and worn out the repalcements too- this terrain is unlike seattle, and stuff that worked there isnt cool here, before I buy all three tires, is there one thats better than the other?

    While the UST tires are the most reliable, they are so much heavier than I'd like- the UST high Rollers are like 890grams, and slow when compared to a UST ardent at 820grams; they grab okay, and rebound a bit faster than I like, faster than the high rollers, but are so much faster rolling. I'm not totally a weight weenie, but would like to keep rubber weight at below 830-850ga tire.

    same with the 2.2 Conti TK- grrrreat tire, like is alot up frontbut a bit slow rolling on the rea, so thats where I am putting the ardent-which is good, but I wouldnt mind a bigger tire back there as the conti 2.2 is bigger than a 2.2.

    I just bought a UST Hans Dampf, light fast and grippy but man are they pricey! I really like the tire in so many ways, but am ready to try another solution- before I go plop down obscene cash for a tire that wears way fast anyways..

    thanks in advance

  46. #46
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    I think a lot of PHX folks like the 2.5 maxxis non ust wire bead tires run ghetto tubeless. Like I said before, I ran 2.5 single ply wire bead HR's (can't get them in the states easily, ordered from CRC) on my 819's for a year. I ended up using a split tube to help the seating. It worked pretty good for a long time but eventually it burped badly at the waterfall and left me with a 20 minute mess on my hands as it wouldn't reseat, had to finish with a tube. That and the other little hassles have been enough for me since I do have UST rims I'll just go back to appropriate tires. I think if looking to run maxxis get a wire bead for ghetto.

  47. #47
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    WTB Nano Raptors

    I have been running the WTB Nano Raptors 2.1 set up tubless for years. They work great on the Decomposed Granite at D&P and the McDowells. Recently I installed a Bontrager EXP 1 2.2 on the front. So far, I am really liking it on the same terrain.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acrophobe View Post
    good read

    I'm looking for feedback on the maxxis 2.4 single plys when run UST- how well does the bead hook work on the non ust tires when used UST on a stans rim? Also curious on more details on Fat albert non UST when run ghetto, as well as the single ply 2.5 minions. Seems many folks run these ghetto, and being 'new' to the area-in the last year I have worn out all the tires I came here with, and worn out the repalcements too- this terrain is unlike seattle, and stuff that worked there isnt cool here, before I buy all three tires, is there one thats better than the other?

    While the UST tires are the most reliable, they are so much heavier than I'd like- the UST high Rollers are like 890grams, and slow when compared to a UST ardent at 820grams; they grab okay, and rebound a bit faster than I like, faster than the high rollers, but are so much faster rolling. I'm not totally a weight weenie, but would like to keep rubber weight at below 830-850ga tire.

    same with the 2.2 Conti TK- grrrreat tire, like is alot up frontbut a bit slow rolling on the rea, so thats where I am putting the ardent-which is good, but I wouldnt mind a bigger tire back there as the conti 2.2 is bigger than a 2.2.

    I just bought a UST Hans Dampf, light fast and grippy but man are they pricey! I really like the tire in so many ways, but am ready to try another solution- before I go plop down obscene cash for a tire that wears way fast anyways..

    thanks in advance
    I run a 2.5 minion front and 2.4 ardent rear. Both foldable tires, both ghetto tubeless. No issues at all...at least on the tires part. I really like this set up. I have a friend that is a big fat albert fan, who runs wire bead on a ghetto set up and loves them.

    The trail kings and mountain kings I've heard people b!tch about a little bit. The first one, I was following a buddy down a techy section and thought he bent the crap out of his rear wheel. Upon closer inspection the wheel was true as can be, the tire however had quite the wobble in it. Within a few weeks, 2 other people I know shared the same story. It very well could have been a bad batch, but havent heard that type of issue happening with a maxxis or schwalbe.
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  49. #49
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    cool- sounds Like I need to try this out myself, before I order- couple of questionsmay seem silly but I rather ask and be sure)
    are you running
    this
    Maxxis Ardent K tire, 26 x 2.4" EXO
    or
    this
    Universal Cycles -- Maxxis Ardent 3C Tire,
    I'm assuming its the EXO?

    same with the Minion: Maxxis Minion DHF Exo 2.5 Tire at Price Point
    ?
    not this Maxxis Minion Super Tacky DH Tire at JensonUSA.com

    single ply wire bead-I'm not against buying from overseas if its the right tire..

    Actually on the 2.4 Trail King UST I bought it rode it once and sold it on ebay, sidewalls too thin
    the 2.2 UST's have been awesome, tho the tread is anything but fast rolling, they hook up nice and seem to wear good too so far. Mountain Kings, well maybe they are ok in PHX but on slickrock and DG, I dont care for them.

    thanks!

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acrophobe View Post
    cool- sounds Like I need to try this out myself, before I order- couple of questionsmay seem silly but I rather ask and be sure)
    are you running
    this
    Maxxis Ardent K tire, 26 x 2.4" EXO
    or
    this
    Universal Cycles -- Maxxis Ardent 3C Tire,
    I'm assuming its the EXO?

    same with the Minion: Maxxis Minion DHF Exo 2.5 Tire at Price Point
    ?
    not this Maxxis Minion Super Tacky DH Tire at JensonUSA.com

    single ply wire bead-I'm not against buying from overseas if its the right tire..

    Actually on the 2.4 Trail King UST I bought it rode it once and sold it on ebay, sidewalls too thin
    the 2.2 UST's have been awesome, tho the tread is anything but fast rolling, they hook up nice and seem to wear good too so far. Mountain Kings, well maybe they are ok in PHX but on slickrock and DG, I dont care for them.

    thanks!
    Ardent Exo 2.4, Minion DHF exo 2.5
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash.
    - Julie Furtado

  51. #51
    Multiple Lines Rock
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    Merry Christmas to me, just ordered BOTH! thanks

  52. #52
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    I ride SS and of late my Specialized Capt tubeless front and rear have taken good abuse. Not the fastest rolling but definitely holding up well. Sidewalls are beefier then my Geax TNT's were and way easier to mount to Stans rims.....my .02

  53. #53
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    I ended up going with a 2.2 Purgatory Armadillo Elite on the rear. Just have to ride it and see if it holds up better. Traction was good and rolled well. Mounted up fine tubeless on a Flow Rim with just Yellow tape.
    Currently at Mayo Clinic being tested for a kidney transplant. Donors welcome.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cycle64 View Post
    Have the Purgatory GRID up front. Be nice to see a Clutch in a GRID. The Clutch SX is 250g heavier. Not sure if that means a tougher sidewall or not. as the sidewall is still a 45a sidewall.
    I'm thinking about a Clutch for the back because I find the Highroller 2.35 slipping on climbs because of the ramped centers. High speed corners and braking are great though.

    Trying to decide if I should give the control a shot or just be safe and go straight to the SX...
    Whatta ya think Tim?

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  55. #55
    Shovel Ready
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    Clutch Control has to thin of a side wall. Went though 2 in 3 months. I was thinking of trying the SX. Thought I would give the Armadillo casing a try. So I went with a Purgatory Armadillo Elite. If I trash this one I'm going to the SX or try the Nevegal DTC/UST I ordered.

    PS: You running tubes?
    Currently at Mayo Clinic being tested for a kidney transplant. Donors welcome.

  56. #56
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    No, I'm tubeless. I guess I'll save my self the hassle and bight the bullet on the weight. SX it is.

    MTBP
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  57. #57
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    AZG23 got me a Small block 8 in a 2.1 DTC size for my birthday. We hit up Pima and Dynamite and I was very impressed. I had less issues with slipping than my previous nevegals and WTB graffiti. He didnt have issues with slippage with his Schwalbe Hans Dampfs though so it might not have been the greatest comparison. I was impressed and will continue to see how well they do in the MSP area where i ride most.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGHORN LEW View Post
    anyone have expREARience with a Kenda slant six on the back?


    The slant 6 are fast but if you need to break hard it feels almost like its on ice. Not to mention it doesnt hook well on loose terrain when climbing. Its a XC tire but nothingg more. Trying to lean the bike in a corner is 90% good luck 10% tecnique on terrain like Desert classic, national or FINS
    Only type of shuttle I ride....the ambulance!

  59. #59
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    The best combination Ive used so far in Phoenix is a Maxxis Minion DHF 2.35 and a Highroller 2.35 in the rear. I think the Minion is a better overall tire then the Nevegal or the Nobby Nics up front. The Minions stick to were you point them and they dont get derailed in the lose stuff. That being said quick story. I used to ride Nobby Nics 2.4 F 2.25 R snake skins with really low pressure 22F and 24 R with no issues at all (im 190lbs) and got a bit more traction that way and they wouldnt squirm a bit. Well when I changed to the maxxis Minios 2.35 single plyand ran them the same pressure 22 Front and I hit a jump (after many jumps that day) and boom. The next thing I now I cant breath, I cant move my shoulder and theres a lot of blood....then I passed out (concussion). The tire popped of the rim on a perfect landing. I never saw it coming. It wasnt even a big jump at all. Moral of the story is there isnt a magical number PSI that will work with every tire. PSI will make or break a tires performance. Before you hate on a tire run it through different pressures.
    Only type of shuttle I ride....the ambulance!

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Douger-1 View Post
    How is the Ardent wearing in the rear? My Slayer came with a single ply Ardent 2.1 in the rear and it was shredded and worn flat in a month or so. My 2.4 Ardent up front is holding up well but its a front vs rear. Just curious.
    Sorry it took me so long to reply. The 2.4 Ardent is wearing great. It's about 6 months old and I ride anywhere from 2-6 days a week. Most of my riding is in dirt or on sandstone...it hasn't been exposed to too much granite...
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash.
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  61. #61
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    Maxxis crossmark rear - great wear, rolling resistance is good, traction is good
    Maxxis ardent front - kinda slow rolling, good wear, dont care for the void in straight traction vs lean traction there is a slight void where you'll get slippage then regains traction
    so I'll try a different front soon

  62. #62
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    Good luck to you if you're running a Purg Arm Elite on the rear. I ran one for about 5 rides and it was downright scary on the solid granite at SoMo. Wouldn't hook up at all. The looser stuff seemed ok but for climbing Natty it was just awful. Sent it back to Speshy for full refund (awesome!) and found a Butcher SX 2.35 locally which is getting a lot of good reviews. Moved my DHF 2.5 to the rear and run the Butcher on the front and I'm digging it so far. Little if any slip ups for the DHF on the rear and both front and rear seem to rail well when leaning over the turns. I run 18 front and 23 rear on Flows tubeless.

  63. #63
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    I'm more interested in what people have found for lifespan of tires.
    I'm doing the whole 29" Saguaro front AKA rear thing, and my damned AKA's center knobbies are nearly bald after less than 2 months! Can someone suggest some tires for rear that are good for climbing and that will last a lot longer? I don't care about weight - I'm fat so I can lose some weight to compensate for any extra in the tires

  64. #64
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    I just put a pair of Panaracer XC Pros on the bike. They rise well and have good grip, but they do not look like they're going to be a long wearing tire choice.

  65. #65
    I am Walt
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHNIPE View Post
    AZG23 got me a Small block 8 in a 2.1 DTC size for my birthday. We hit up Pima and Dynamite and I was very impressed. I had less issues with slipping than my previous nevegals and WTB graffiti. He didnt have issues with slippage with his Schwalbe Hans Dampfs though so it might not have been the greatest comparison. I was impressed and will continue to see how well they do in the MSP area where i ride most.
    How are those Small Block 8's holding up in the MSP?

    I've been running Panaracer Rampage front and WTB Exiwolf rear on my SS, and that has been pretty good. I love the Rampage in front, and the Exi hooks up well in back, but tends to wear rather quickly. I'm looking for a lighter and somewhat faster rolling combo, but need to make sure they can handle regular riding in the rocky MSP.

    I set up my Stumpjumper geared HT with a Captain 2.3 up front (Control casing - beefier), and a Fast Trak 1.9/2.0/2.1 (whatever it was) in the back (S-works casing - thinner), and I cut the Fast Track within 4 weeks. Exhale, and Specialized, replaced it at no charge with a 2.1 Captain with the Control casing. After dissing Specialized tires for years, I have been very impressed with them. That Captain in front hooks up very well, and seems to be quite durable. Fast Track did great in back, and the thinner Captain feels pretty good back there too.

    After years of DGAF'ing about my tires from the standpoint of both weight and rolling resistance, I am realizing I should care...it makes quite a difference. Back to my original question, I am looking to set up a tire set specifically for OP, and am thinking those Small Block 8's might be the ticket. I have heard they hook up well, with a low RR.

    Any additional feedback on good OP tires is appreciated...
    Ride more; post less...

  66. #66
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    Ive got about 80 miles on em between Pima&Dynamite, MSP, and a couple commutes to work. I much prefer them over my previous tires in various forms. Ive yet to have a tire slip that was the tires fault. Im running the DTC with the folding bead. Ive been keeping it in the 35lb range lately and it seems to be about where it likes to be for my riding. Ive noticed on some square edge hits at 30-32psi it would have more of a wheel hit compared to a nevegal or panaracer. Since bumping up the pressure a bit its nice and solid and doesnt feel like the wheel is taking the hit or near pinchflatting. I did notice that at the 30-35mph range (down hill from 114th st) they can and WILL break loose on pavement if your pressures are too low and you try and make the turn at the bottom.

    I rode to the top (finally) of Sunrise the other day and it felt great. The lower section was always a pain in the butt when I was running the WTB Graffiti (Dirtjump/urban tire) but the rocky section seemed to be easy enough this time. The upper section when the dirt was more packed was super smooth and grippy. After using this for as little as I have Im considering getting away from the Nevegals for good and putting a Slant6 or another SB8 up front.

    I dont have any comments on sidewall durability yet as I dont think Ive put in enough miles nor situations where it could rip. You know how rocky and jagged some of the trails can be (Like down to Quartz from Taliesin) so Im sure eventually Ill find a bad enough line that could pose a problem and Ill report back then but for now I have nothing bad to say about them.

  67. #67
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    curious if anyone has any feedback on the minion dhf exo 2.5... i really love my dhfs/dual-ply but am def intrigued by dropping some weight in the tires. just wondering if they are even in the discussion with the dual-plys for tear resistance and overall durability.

    i run tubeless w/ stans on 823s, btw, and dont plan on changing that set-up at all as its been 100% bomber and maintenance free.

  68. #68
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    I had an AKA as a rear tubeless for about 4 months and the center lugs were pretty shot. I tore its sidewall and that was that. Trying a Control now (2.2) and like it so far after about 50 miles. Good grip and rolls decently for a more aggressive tread. We'll see on the durability...

  69. #69
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    anyone had experience with WTB Bronson 2.2 29er

  70. #70
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    Bump... looking for a new set of tires and this thread hasnt been updated since 12. What's everyone running/recommending these days. I'm currently running Geax Suguaro with tubes. Im interested to switch to tubless but am waiting until I change my tires.

  71. #71
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    For me Maxxis high roller 2's are indestructible in AZ. Worth the slight weight penalty.

  72. #72
    Ahhh the pain....
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    There's probably been a hundred tire threads since this one was last responded to...

  73. #73
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    How bout a link for a more recent post Raybum? Ill read up on the high rollers harradm, thanks for the response

  74. #74
    No Clue Crew
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    DHF Super Tacky 2ply up front
    High Roller II Super Tacky 2ply in back

    Weight is all in your mind.

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    DHF Super Tacky 2ply up front
    High Roller II Super Tacky 2ply in back

    Weight is all in your mind.
    Im 220 lbs - weight is all in my gut.

    Thanks for the recommendation, ill check em' out.

  76. #76
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    Conti 2.4 x-king front 2.2race king rear for xc for more allmountain I put an Xking 2.4 on the back. All of them are the Protection series. These tires are light enough for race day and strong enough to ride everday. I keep trying other brands and always end up back on Conti. Only complaint is when you set them up tubless you need to ride them for them to seal.

  77. #77
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    +1 on Conti protection series - I put a 2.4 Mountain King on the front and at 1.5 rides in I but the sidewall on National. I put a 2.2 Protect on the back and beat the poo out of it for 4 months on National + other trails. No cuts or problems.

  78. #78
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    I'm new to the area and am running Maxxis Ardent Race 3C EVO front & rear. I just put a large cut in the rear that stans just can't quite get sealed. I'm wondering if what the cool kids are using since this thread is about 8 months stale. Is the trend still to use larger volume tires here for trail and general riding setting?

  79. #79
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    Is the cut in the tread or sidewall. If it is in the sidewall just sew it up. In the tread is more complex.
    Joe
    '18 Specialized Epic 29", Vassago Verhauen SS 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5", XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    Is the cut in the tread or sidewall. If it is in the sidewall just sew it up. In the tread is more complex.
    It's in the thread, unfortunately.

  81. #81
    Click Click Click
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tenuous View Post
    It's in the thread, unfortunately.
    I have had good luck simply cleaning the inside of the tire and applying a regular tube patch on the inside of the tire. I have done this and ridden a tire another 2-300 miles.
    "You either want to or you don't."

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tenuous View Post
    It's in the thread, unfortunately.
    I had cut in tread on Maxxis Ikon EXO. I tubed in on the trail, but at home I cleaned the inside and put a standard tube patch on it from the inside. Put some RTV over the top of that and put super glue in the seam in the tread from the outside. I also cut the lug off that was next to it since that lug will tend to open the cut as it flexed. It cut length was 1/8" so pretty small.
    Joe
    '18 Specialized Epic 29", Vassago Verhauen SS 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5", XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  83. #83
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    i do not care for the Schwalbe Hans Dampf Trailstars that came on my dixon,,

    while they might have decent traction, the knobs have too much open space between them which severely impacts their ability to deflect small rocks.
    as a result, all the little sharp rocks you run over make their way past the knobs down to the base of the tire where they can slice your topwall.
    i've received at least a dozen topwall slices that were long enough to immediately start spewing stans.
    even when i get the stans to hold eventually, when i leave my bike inside for the night, the next morning will have a dark wet spot around each hole, so it's not 100%, but it will hold

  84. #84
    Ahhh the pain....
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    Quote Originally Posted by longhairmike View Post
    ....the next morning will have a dark wet spot around each hole...
    I have that ^^^ same problem.

  85. #85
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    I have used two plugs in one cut that wouldn't seal up right on the sidewall/tread area. Rode it for about 60 miles that way.

    For Maxxis tires (which I love) you really nice the EXO sidewall protection. The sidewalls are still plenty supple for good handling but they are tough as nails.
    Vassago Cycles, Shadetree Bikes, Flat Tire Bikes, Galfer Brakes USA

  86. #86
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    What's everyone's opinion of a DHR2 2.3 front/Ikon 2.35 rear combo? All around trail, do-everything stability, good climbing, and that downhill-into-sandy-wash thing where the front wants to push and wash out. The 2.25 racing ralphs leave something to be desired in anything other than hardpack and mild rock. I've got an Ikon on the front now after blowing out the sidewall on the RaRa but considering moving that to the rear in favor of a more aggressive front. Is this combination stupid or ineffective? The Ikon is brand new.

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pac8541 View Post
    What's everyone's opinion of a DHR2 2.3 front/Ikon 2.35 rear combo? All around trail, do-everything stability, good climbing, and that downhill-into-sandy-wash thing where the front wants to push and wash out. The 2.25 racing ralphs leave something to be desired in anything other than hardpack and mild rock. I've got an Ikon on the front now after blowing out the sidewall on the RaRa but considering moving that to the rear in favor of a more aggressive front. Is this combination stupid or ineffective? The Ikon is brand new.
    for front I really like the wtb Bronson.. but I don't like this tire in the back

    the rear the ikon exo tr is good.. and surprisingly durable...
    the ignitor exo is good too in the rear and better than the ikon in sand..

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by RajunCajun44 View Post
    for front I really like the wtb Bronson.. but I don't like this tire in the back

    the rear the ikon exo tr is good.. and surprisingly durable...
    the ignitor exo is good too in the rear and better than the ikon in sand..
    Thanks man, I'll take a look at the Bronson. Lots of folks seem to push a more aggressive tire up front and its got me wondering what I may be missing.

  89. #89
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    I was a Panaracer Rampage 2.35 fan for years (front tire) then tried the Ikon 2.35...now I run a 2.2 Ikon in back and a 2.35 Ikon up front. Good fast combo and got me through the AZT300 w/ zero tire issues.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raybum View Post
    I was a Panaracer Rampage 2.35 fan for years (front tire) then tried the Ikon 2.35...now I run a 2.2 Ikon in back and a 2.35 Ikon up front. Good fast combo and got me through the AZT300 w/ zero tire issues.
    Really, Ray? And I know the chunder you ride through (T100, AZT, etc), along with the requirement to minimize any tire issues.

    I'm all over the Ikon 2.2 in back...no issues for 2+ years, but somewhat surprised by the Ikon in front. I was loving the Ardent 2.2 in front (no issues, hooks up well, light), then just put a slightly used Rampage on due to the Ardent being worn out. MAN, that feels plush, hooks up aggressively, and doesn't feel slower! And I can run a lower PSI, too!

    Just by looking at the Ikon, it doesn't seem like it would hook up as well, but maybe the 2.35 makes that much of a difference? What PSI's you running?


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  91. #91
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    I just installed the 2015 Schawlbe Nobby Nic on 38mm rims. I'll report back after I get some solid miles behind me.

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Really, Ray? And I know the chunder you ride through (T100, AZT, etc), along with the requirement to minimize any tire issues.

    I'm all over the Ikon 2.2 in back...no issues for 2+ years, but somewhat surprised by the Ikon in front. I was loving the Ardent 2.2 in front (no issues, hooks up well, light), then just put a slightly used Rampage on due to the Ardent being worn out. MAN, that feels plush, hooks up aggressively, and doesn't feel slower! And I can run a lower PSI, too!

    Just by looking at the Ikon, it doesn't seem like it would hook up as well, but maybe the 2.35 makes that much of a difference? What PSI's you running?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    The Ikon 2.35 up front hooks up as good as the ardent 2.2 surprisingly. I have been going back and forth between the two as a front tire debating their merits. I prefer the low rolling resistance of the ikon though.

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by seandm View Post
    The Ikon 2.35 up front hooks up as good as the ardent 2.2 surprisingly. I have been going back and forth between the two as a front tire debating their merits. I prefer the low rolling resistance of the ikon though.
    Good to know...I'm going to have to try one. The low rolling resistance is key for me for the long rides...


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  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Really, Ray? And I know the chunder you ride through (T100, AZT, etc), along with the requirement to minimize any tire issues.

    I'm all over the Ikon 2.2 in back...no issues for 2+ years, but somewhat surprised by the Ikon in front
    I love my 2.35 Ikon up front. The tire is massive even on 26" wheels and for me personally I love the progressive nature of it. Front tire sticks at all lean angles. I don't have lean it over hard for it to grip, but it grips so well that I feel I can push it hard and lean it if I want. I run 20-25 psi and bet I can go lower. I never had that confidence with Nobby Nic in 2.25.

    I have had some slicing issues with my 2.2 Ikon in the back. Grip was good and life was good as well, but durablity has been mixed over 3 tires. First tire run tubed and never sliced ever. 2nd tire ran tubeless and had 3 sidewall slices, but fixed all with needle and thread. Removed the tire when I got bubbles. Tread was worn, but I could have gotten more miles. The maxxis tire guys at Whiskey said that compound on the non-TR (tubeless ready) can react with the stans and the TR version don't. 3rd tire suffered 2 tread slices. First one was small and repairable, but 2nd was too big and I had to replace it in a hurry last Friday. I put a Bontrager XR3 2.35 team issue on the rear (best I could find in 26") and it did fine at the whiskey. I will run it till it is done for, but not sure about buying it again as it is pricey. The 2.35 XR3 is smaller than the Ikon 2.35 mounted to the same wheels despite the XR3 having slightly longer lugs.
    Joe
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  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    I love my 2.35 Ikon up front. The tire is massive even on 26" wheels and for me personally I love the progressive nature of it. Front tire sticks at all lean angles. I don't have lean it over hard for it to grip, but it grips so well that I feel I can push it hard and lean it if I want. I run 20-25 psi and bet I can go lower. I never had that confidence with Nobby Nic in 2.25.

    I have had some slicing issues with my 2.2 Ikon in the back. Grip was good and life was good as well, but durablity has been mixed over 3 tires. First tire run tubed and never sliced ever. 2nd tire ran tubeless and had 3 sidewall slices, but fixed all with needle and thread. Removed the tire when I got bubbles. Tread was worn, but I could have gotten more miles. The maxxis tire guys at Whiskey said that compound on the non-TR (tubeless ready) can react with the stans and the TR version don't. 3rd tire suffered 2 tread slices. First one was small and repairable, but 2nd was too big and I had to replace it in a hurry last Friday. I put a Bontrager XR3 2.35 team issue on the rear (best I could find in 26") and it did fine at the whiskey. I will run it till it is done for, but not sure about buying it again as it is pricey. The 2.35 XR3 is smaller than the Ikon 2.35 mounted to the same wheels despite the XR3 having slightly longer lugs.
    that there is some darn good info... I run the exo/tr versions... and my fat ass hasn't had any slices... maybe the TR's are the way to go.. if anyone has had problems with the sidewall slice ... its me.. 200 lbs on hardtails...

    but I swear the Ikon EXO TR's have been the best tires yet when it comes to durability... and they are light !!... but damn they are NOT cheap.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by RajunCajun44 View Post
    that there is some darn good info... I run the exo/tr versions... and my fat ass hasn't had any slices... maybe the TR's are the way to go.. if anyone has had problems with the sidewall slice ... its me.. 200 lbs on hardtails...

    but I swear the Ikon EXO TR's have been the best tires yet when it comes to durability... and they are light !!... but damn they are NOT cheap.
    Same tires here (29er, 2.2 rear, EXO, TR), and I'm 180 before gear. No slices; no issues.
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  97. #97
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    Great feedback, thank you very much. Gonna leave well-enough alone and see how it works out. Think I'll head out to Dynamite in the morning; I've been up and down that hill enough for it to be a good test of the Ikon front.

  98. #98
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    Yeah, having a tire like the IKON on front is a little counter-intuitive...the small knobs seem like grip would be comprimised but when you lean it over, the larger side knobs do a great job. (like joe eluded to). I run it at 20 psi and it's really nice. I do notice that on a stans crest, it's wider than when mounted to my carbon rims (of the same width).

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    Right now I'm running a Maxxis High Roller II in the front, and a Vittoria Saguaro in the rear. Haven't ridden the Saguaro yet. I had a Conti Trail King in the rear, and when it was new, it was good, but I've never had a tire get ground down to bologna skin so fast. I had a Specialized Captain last almost a year, and the HR II up front is still a viable tire after well over a year. Here's hoping the Saguaro lasts as long as people say it does.

  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raybum View Post
    Yeah, having a tire like the IKON on front is a little counter-intuitive...the small knobs seem like grip would be comprimised but when you lean it over, the larger side knobs do a great job. (like joe eluded to). I run it at 20 psi and it's really nice. I do notice that on a stans crest, it's wider than when mounted to my carbon rims (of the same width).

    This tire ROCKS. Did a quick 9 mile loop at San Tan and the difference is incredible. It's amazing how much better a ride is when you feel confidence in your front end, when the tire tracks straight through sand and deep gravel, and when it holds the line you point it at. Duh, right?

    I started with the formula someone posted somewhere: weight/7, -1 front, +2 rear. That put me at 24lbs/27lbs. Inspiring performance and I'm very pleased. No need for me, at this point after just 1 real ride, to dump $100 into another tire. This one works great for the relatively mild stuff I do.

    Also discovered I'm tying my shoes too tight. By the time I got through the 1.5 mile descent, my toes felt like blocks of wood. But that's another issue. Thanks again for everyone's help!

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