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  1. #1
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    My rear tire keeps slicing open and not sealing!!

    BAAAAAARRRGGGHh , this is the third time that i have tried to ride and end up getting flats( Stans and Slime have not been able to seal these up ) and having to constantly stop and "re pump" my tire up or walk back to my truck.. this is getting ridiculous!! just needed to vent..

    anyone else ever have/had this issue? --( i am running 819 rim with 2.1 wtb weirwolf UST in rear )

  2. #2
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    Nope. Ive never had an issue like you describe. Are you saying you have gone through 3 Weirwolf UST tires? Define "slicing open". If you have torn the sidewall no amout of tire sealant is going to fix that.
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did." Mark Twain

  3. #3
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    While UST has a thicker sidewall to hold air, it's not a gaurantee you won't slide a sidewall (only not riding gaurantees that).

    If you're finding yourself in terrain that is that hard on tires, you have to either deal with the consequences, or run a heavier duty tire. I've had great luck with Specialized UST AM tires (with the GRID tech), but just can't tolerate the weight so I don't run them anymore so I take my chances with standard 2Bliss tires.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Douger-1 View Post
    Nope. Ive never had an issue like you describe. Are you saying you have gone through 3 Weirwolf UST tires? Define "slicing open". If you have torn the sidewall no amout of tire sealant is going to fix that.
    No i have gone out riding 3 times and have sliced open ( just getting cut by sharp rocks or something, not really sure ) the tread ( not the sidewall ) and it wont seal up... The first time it happened it was a somewhat small puncture , but the SLIME would not seal it up, so i blamed it on the brand SLIME .. i superglued the outside shut and then added STANS.. no issues. Then I sliced open another hole ( again on the tread) this time it was a bigger slice.. maybe about 1/4" or so and that one just SPEWED sealent everywhere! made a huge mess on the trail -- like a bird had a very very bad day of diarrhea. So i ended up buying some patches and also had some slime " skabs " too... so i used the real patch on the big hole ( also super glued the outside ) i just got.. and just threw a " skab " on the other hole that i had super glued previously just for good measure .. Then i went riding this morning and air started leaking out of the FIRST hole that i got -- not the big one i got recently -- and it would not seal up either , im not sure why the STANS would not seal it, Im thinking that for some reason the skab that i put in there was causing issues or something... maybe the stans couldnt stick to the skab or something.. i dont know.. but either way im tired of getting all these holes in my tires ..

    my front is doing just fine.. not flats yet.. have run over NUMEROUS pieces of cactus and thorns -- punctured the tire everytime -- but it seals up like it should and never loses air

    my rear just does not like these sharp rocks! im contemplating buying a new tire for the rear cuz i dont want to patch this tonight ( to be ready for ride tomorrow morning )


    BAAARGGH!

  5. #5
    Huffy Rider
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    Maybe try one of the home brews that uses the Slime that has the rubber chunks in it. I just mixed some up but haven't had any holes yet. Good luck,
    Brenda

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by motochick View Post
    Maybe try one of the home brews that uses the Slime that has the rubber chunks in it. I just mixed some up but haven't had any holes yet. Good luck,
    Brenda
    which recipe did you use?

  7. #7
    Shred...it's the new drug
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    Sounds like that tire is done for...if you're slicing tires like that then a double wall casing is in your future. I run a homebrew of
    1 bottle of ATV Slime
    1 jar of Latex Mold Builder (get at Micheals)
    equal parts water and a little rubbing alcohol maybe a 1/2 cup
    Shake up real well and there you go! I does seep a little at the bead for a while but works great! Can't guarantee if will seal up big tears though...

  8. #8
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    Wow thats a lot to go through. Ok first of all, to my understanding tire sealants, are not designed to fill large tears or cuts anywhere in a tire. A 1/4" tear is large to me. It might hold enough to limp out of the trail but thats it. The sealant will take care of only small punctures from cactus needles or other small sharp objects.

    Second I would not be super glueing a hole in a tire. If you were running tubes maybe but if you are running a true UST the tire must be "air tight". Super glue dries hard and will simply crack off once you start riding.

    Honestly you need to buy a new tire. I dont know enough information on where you are riding and how your bike is set up to help out much beyond that. The Sonoran desert is an unforgiving place and things like this happen time to time.
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did." Mark Twain

  9. #9
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    I use WSS v2 with good success.

    1 part latex mold builder (Michaels)
    2 parts Slime ATV or general (Walmart)
    2 parts water (your faucet or RO system if you prefer)

    $23 for 3 quarts roughly
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did." Mark Twain

  10. #10
    Huffy Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by latedropbob View Post
    Sounds like that tire is done for...if you're slicing tires like that then a double wall casing is in your future. I run a homebrew of
    1 bottle of ATV Slime
    1 jar of Latex Mold Builder (get at Micheals)
    equal parts water and a little rubbing alcohol maybe a 1/2 cup
    Shake up real well and there you go! I does seep a little at the bead for a while but works great! Can't guarantee if will seal up big tears though...
    Mine is similar, I just used latex caulk in a tube and anti freeze....2 part atv slime to 1 part antifreeze, 1 part caulk, 1 part water.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Douger-1 View Post
    Second I would not be super glueing a hole in a tire. If you were running tubes maybe but if you are running a true UST the tire must be "air tight". Super glue dries hard and will simply crack off once you start riding.
    well i guess i should have been more specific, im using gorilla glue -- which has worked VERY good. its mostly to seal up most of the gash and then the sealent with get the small imperfections...when gorilla glue dries it expands about 3x times in size.. so if i leave it over night, there is a good bulge off the tire ( if i just gob it on there ) then when i ride the terrain usually rips that part off eventually and leaves the gorilla glue clogging most of the hole..

    and yes the 1/4" hole definitaly was too big -- shot out like 2 oz's of stans in a matter of seconds haha.. but the first hole i was describing was much much smaller... and now it has super glue inside the hole ( making it smaller ) and it still wont seal with stans... so i dont know...

    my conclusion was that this compound of rubber that is on the weirwolf tire is not strong enough to take sharp rocks as a rear tire.. so im thinking of trying to find a better suited tire for the terrain...im thinking conti trail kings or similar

    but for now i think im goign to save some $$ and patch it again and hope for the best, if it happens again I am going to light my rear tire on fire!!

  12. #12
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    You also need to shake the stans bottle real well before adding it to your tire.

    Check out these detailed instructions... http://www.notubes.com/detailed_kit_instruction.aspx

    5. Adding Sealant

    Important: While shaking and pouring sealant, the bottle must be turned upside down. (See photo 5). The sealant contains micro sealing particles; these particles need to be suspended in the sealing fluid for maximum performance.

    Procedure: Cut the spout at the first line (see photo 4). Shake the bottle thoroughly to suspend the sealing particles, and then attach the spout. Before pouring sealant, turn the bottle upside down, with your finger tip over the spout and hold for 5-10 seconds and move finger to side and fill scoop, 2oz bottle, or injector (see photo 5). This will allow the sealing particles to collect in the tip of the spout.

    Adding sealant to tire with scoop: Dismount a small section of one bead of the tire. With your finger tip over the spout hole invert and re-shake the bottle, pour in the correct amount of sealant, 2-3oz (1 scoop = 2oz). You can then re-mount your last section of bead.

    Optional Applicators Procedure: See photo 7 or 8 if you have our Injector or 2oz bottle. Carefully remove your valve core with a pair of pliers or Stan's Core Remover tool, fill the injector/bottle with sealant and inject the sealant through the valve stem. Re-install the valve core and tighten with pliers or Stan's Core Remover tool.
    Marty

  13. #13
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    " but for now i think im goign to save some $$ and patch it again and hope for the best "

    Honestly this is your problem. Unfortunatly mountain biking isnt a cheap sport and taking short cuts rarely works out. Your tire needs to be air tight and no amount of glueing or patching is going to be a reasonable long term solution as you are finding out first hand. Stop being cheap and go spend $30 for a new tire. You have $180 + in rims for goodness sake. Go spend some money and get a good tire on there and ride the heck out of it.
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did." Mark Twain

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcoplea View Post
    You also need to shake the stans bottle real well before adding it to your tire.

    Check out these detailed instructions... http://www.notubes.com/detailed_kit_instruction.aspx

    5. Adding Sealant

    Important: While shaking and pouring sealant, the bottle must be turned upside down. (See photo 5). The sealant contains micro sealing particles; these particles need to be suspended in the sealing fluid for maximum performance.

    Procedure: Cut the spout at the first line (see photo 4). Shake the bottle thoroughly to suspend the sealing particles, and then attach the spout. Before pouring sealant, turn the bottle upside down, with your finger tip over the spout and hold for 5-10 seconds and move finger to side and fill scoop, 2oz bottle, or injector (see photo 5). This will allow the sealing particles to collect in the tip of the spout.

    Adding sealant to tire with scoop: Dismount a small section of one bead of the tire. With your finger tip over the spout hole invert and re-shake the bottle, pour in the correct amount of sealant, 2-3oz (1 scoop = 2oz). You can then re-mount your last section of bead.

    Optional Applicators Procedure: See photo 7 or 8 if you have our Injector or 2oz bottle. Carefully remove your valve core with a pair of pliers or Stan's Core Remover tool, fill the injector/bottle with sealant and inject the sealant through the valve stem. Re-install the valve core and tighten with pliers or Stan's Core Remover tool.
    DOH! i shook the bottle pretty good, but did not realize you should do the rest of these instructions, thanks for INFO! i will definitely follow these instructions next time to get full functionality out of the product


    Honestly this is your problem. Unfortunatly mountain biking isnt a cheap sport and taking short cuts rarely works out. Your tire needs to be air tight and no amount of glueing or patching is going to be a reasonable long term solution as you are finding out first hand. Stop being cheap and go spend $30 for a new tire. You have $180 + in rims for goodness sake. Go spend some money and get a good tire on there and ride the heck out of it.
    ya ya , i know i need to just spend the cheeze, my reasoning for patching one more time is that i mostly just want to ride tomorrow morning, if i patch tonight i can then ride tomorrow and order a tire online for cheap.. IF i DONT patch tonight i have to buy a tire at retail at a shop , which is typically about double what i can get online -- sorry i have to pinch every penny to support my habits -- but in the end i will probably end up just going to slippery after work and pick up a new tire BAAARRGGHH

  15. #15
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    << sorry i have to pinch every penny to support my habits >>

    No apologies necessary. I have to go into the red to support my mtb habit. Sometimes you just have to spend the money to do it right though. Thats all.
    Last edited by Douger-1; 07-15-2011 at 03:34 PM.
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did." Mark Twain

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Douger-1 View Post
    sorry i have to pinch every penny to support my habits

    No apologies necessary. I have to go into the red to support my mtb habit. Sometimes you just have to spend the money to do it right though. Thats all.
    ya, so now its time to find the right tire for me i think i might just pull trigger on a Conti - Trail King UST 2.2

    been seeing good reviews about this bad boy

  17. #17
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    Speaking of tire issues...

    I have been running tubless in all manner of wheel setups for six years. I always use Maxxis Larsen TT (26in) or Crossmark (29) with the exception of one Bontrager tire which also held up well. I have changed probably 6 tubes in that time. So I picked up a brand new Maxxis Crossmark at Swiss last week and first 100 yds on it at McDowell Long, I puncture the sidewall with a pretty sizable hole in the rear. If you rode the night ride, that was me determined to let my sealant work and pumping up three times. It held great after that and I finished the ride. I rode it twice after that with no issues. Then it leaked again and I used gorilla glue to seal the outside (it does work sometimes) last night to do the Fins ride. I get on the fins ride and not even to trail hit some glass or something that leaves a big hole in the front tire this time. Insert tube that has been in my pack for at least 2 years. Ride for 1/2 mile and that tube exploded so loud that others on the ride that were a couple hundred yards ahead thought it was a gunshot. It blew the tire right off the rim! (Scared me too!) Insert another tube and no probs rest of the ride except for the shat ride quality of riding with tube. Just weird after soooo long with absolutely no issues, I get a ton in about one week! Hopefully I got it all out of my system!
    Find a ride on FB> AZ MTB

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  18. #18
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    Dont they say things come in three's? Hopefully you are done for awhile.
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did." Mark Twain

  19. #19
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    Ya hopefully i have gotten all of my issues out of my system as well...

  20. #20
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    Smile

    well just picked up a spesh "the caption" ust so we will see how that goes, went on very easy and beads sat very easy, we will see how it rides tomorrow morning @ PMP gonna hit T100 C2C -- failed yesterday because of tire issues

    when i was at slippery one of the workers was saying that you cant patch a tubless tire because of the sealent,he says the sealent eats the patch glue and eventually the patch does not patch anymore.. i have not heard this before, anyone agree / disagree?

  21. #21
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    hey zblee! I am gonna disagree with the "worker". if the patch is holding the air in your tire, then it is also keeping the sealant out from between the patch and tire. air leaks easier than sealant. make sure you clean the inside of the tire really good, and be sure to rough up the tire with an abrasive. I have a specialized the captain on the rear with a patch inside, and it has stayed put for months. like you the stans wouldn't seal it. I like my captain. it rolls good, hooks up well enough, and has good side knobs for cornering. let us know your opinion on the captain.
    RAM speed: UP, UP, and away....!

  22. #22
    Eroding into the trail
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    Quote Originally Posted by cstem View Post
    Speaking of tire issues...

    I have been running tubless in all manner of wheel setups for six years. I always use Maxxis Larsen TT (26in) or Crossmark (29) with the exception of one Bontrager tire which also held up well. I have changed probably 6 tubes in that time. So I picked up a brand new Maxxis Crossmark at Swiss last week and first 100 yds on it at McDowell Long, I puncture the sidewall with a pretty sizable hole in the rear. If you rode the night ride, that was me determined to let my sealant work and pumping up three times. It held great after that and I finished the ride. I rode it twice after that with no issues. Then it leaked again and I used gorilla glue to seal the outside (it does work sometimes) last night to do the Fins ride. I get on the fins ride and not even to trail hit some glass or something that leaves a big hole in the front tire this time. Insert tube that has been in my pack for at least 2 years. Ride for 1/2 mile and that tube exploded so loud that others on the ride that were a couple hundred yards ahead thought it was a gunshot. It blew the tire right off the rim! (Scared me too!) Insert another tube and no probs rest of the ride except for the shat ride quality of riding with tube. Just weird after soooo long with absolutely no issues, I get a ton in about one week! Hopefully I got it all out of my system!

    Damn! Thats unusual!

  23. #23
    Eroding into the trail
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    Anybody using glitter in their homebrew?
    If so, what is the most desirable type/size?
    What measurement/ratio?

  24. #24
    dirt visionary
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    Sounds like your a bigger guy slamming rocks...if you ride smoother choose better rock to slam then your issues should diminish if not look into a 1.5ply or tru dual ply. With a dual ply those issues are near none existant. Yeah its more weight but that penalty outweighs tire troubles on the trail.
    Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of
    arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by zblee View Post
    well just picked up a spesh "the caption" ust so we will see how that goes, went on very easy and beads sat very easy, we will see how it rides tomorrow morning @ PMP gonna hit T100 C2C -- failed yesterday because of tire issues

    when i was at slippery one of the workers was saying that you cant patch a tubless tire because of the sealent,he says the sealent eats the patch glue and eventually the patch does not patch anymore.. i have not heard this before, anyone agree / disagree?
    I've had very good luck patching tires. I've been able to run almost all of my tires until they were bald. Be careful of scuffing the inside of the tire to much. I did that and the casing bulged. Now I just clean the sealant off with acetone and glue on a patch.

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