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  1. #1
    SamuraiBunnyGuy
    Reputation: longhairmike's Avatar
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    my fork is dead, replacement options

    okay,, so i took my bike into DNA to get both shocks rebuilt (after over 3 years of AZ riding), and the guy takes one look at my Fox float 32 fork and says "if that's only 140mm, then its way over extended"
    this might explain the leaking oil and the clanking everytime it TOPS out. obviously something metal or structural is broken inside which SHOULD BE limiting the rebound range, and its not just a simple rebuild with new seals.
    he actually said they would have to send it into fox. so id basically be looking at a minimum of $200, more likely $300 when all is said and done.

    that said,, jenson has some fox forks on sale in the $500s range, however some of them are 27.5
    would i be taking too big a risk putting a 27.5 fork on the front of my bike while continuing to use my 26 wheel (i could always switch later when i replace the wheel)
    the fork is a 150mm, but if i'm riding a dangerously extended 140 right now,, then i'm already used to that geometry.
    but would the combination of using a 27.5 AND adding the extra 10mm double the additional risk? if i am to extend one of those factors, would either one be less risky?

    does anyone ride with a 27.5 front, and a 26 back?
    i know the main concern is the force exerted on the headtube if you put too much travel on front, but this thing already has a 69 degree head angle
    Rocky Mountain Altitude 50 RSL 2010 > Complete Bikes > Mountain Bikes | Jenson USA

  2. #2
    Elitest thrill junkie
    Reputation: Jayem's Avatar
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    You can often find Fox Evolution forks relatively inexpensive. Pass on those, as they use a much more crude damping system than your current fox fork.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  3. #3
    Give it a crank
    Reputation: Mtn-Rider's Avatar
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    Here's a few random thoughts of some options:

    1) Figure out exactly what parts are broken and order just those parts then rebuild it yourself

    2) Sell it on ebay as is for parts, you'd be amazed how high bids can go by some buyers, use the $'s to buy a new fork

    3) Get a used Reba, sweet and easy to rebuild yourself

    4) Look at rigid graphite forks

  4. #4
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mtn-Rider View Post
    Here's a few random thoughts of some options:

    1) Figure out exactly what parts are broken and order just those parts then rebuild it yourself
    If it requires bushings or pressing upper tubes into a new crown, it's "dead" as Mike says ($ beyond what it will make sense to fix).
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  5. #5
    How much further ???
    Reputation: Douger-1's Avatar
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    What does "over extended" mean? Not that it isnt a valid fork problem its just one Ive never heard of. So your fork went from a 140mm to a 150mm fork?

    I cant remember which side you put the spacers on to adjust the travel of Fox forks. The only guess I have is the damper side controls the travel and it somehow broke internally so the air side is able to push the fork past its intended travel. If that's the case you just may need a new damper cartridge or assembly.
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did." Mark Twain

  6. #6
    SamuraiBunnyGuy
    Reputation: longhairmike's Avatar
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    for $524 to my door, i just ordered a Fox 32 Float 150 CTD Fit 26" Fork 2014 > Components > Forks > Suspension Forks | Jenson USA
    looks like i got their last one with a regular steertube too. i don't foresee 10mm extra travel messing with anything

  7. #7
    parenting for gnarness
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    do you trust the shop and mechanic's experience? I've never heard overextended, so its curious. Could be you need new internal, or, it could be that whatever broke in there scarred up the insides beyond repair.~$300 seems high, but Fox are pricey. RockShox tend to be less expensive.

    Dont buy the wrong sized fork. Forks are a coupla hundy, but its part of owning bikes. I just dropped $500 on a new Reba cause the valve to fill air broke off, the right model internals were no longer avail - $5 piece of metal led to $500 replacement. **** happens on mtb's...

  8. #8
    SamuraiBunnyGuy
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    it's DNA in mesa,, i'd never buy one of their bikes, but they've been good to me with repairs.
    they already called to say my rear rebuild was ready

    at had that wicked ****ing full speed crash at the top of Mine-trail in march which probably did the majority of the damage.
    after that is when the clinking started


    wheee,, looks like i'm currently sporting a 170. doug i think you're probably right about the dampening cartridge being non-functional (or no longer there)

    my fork is dead, replacement options-dscn4494.jpg
    Last edited by longhairmike; 5 Days Ago at 02:49 PM.

  9. #9
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    I think you should just pull it and tear it apart. I bet it can be fixed at home for alot less than $200. Worst comes to worse it is junk which seems no different from what you are doing with it now.

    These forks are not really that complex.
    Joe
    2003 KHS Alite 4000 26" Hardtail - XC, All mountain, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    I think you should just pull it and tear it apart. I bet it can be fixed at home for alot less than $200. Worst comes to worse it is junk which seems no different from what you are doing with it now.

    These forks are not really that complex.
    Doesn't your bike have rim brakes? You're excluded from giving advice on this site!

    Check out the 650B forks as well. They are more for enduro, but you get more bang for the buck.
    Nobody gives a s#$t you singlespeed.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Douger-1 View Post
    If that's the case you just may need a new damper cartridge or assembly.
    Do you happen to know if the general public can purchase these? I sent my fork in to Push to get serviced. I was going to upgrade it to a RLC. But apparently they were unable to do that for my fork because it was too old or something. They said they could replace the cartridge, but total out the door would be like $450. I had been looking for one myself online. I could not find out, and never bothered to call Fox myself.
    Nobody gives a s#$t you singlespeed.

  12. #12
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    Sounds like the negative spring failed. They break, then the two pieces wind themselves together. This increases the travel, and makes that awful clank as the two spring pieces collide. A new spring rod is I think 50 bucks? Might be a bit more. It's worth fixing if the stantions are not scratched and everything else is in working order.

  13. #13
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    Mike- I would love to take that fork apart for you. If you let me, and it's a fixable thing cheap- you buy the parts, I'll fix it and you sell it. I just want the experience. And you can watch!
    Find a ride on FB> AZ MTB

    "Uppercase with a space"

  14. #14
    Go Speed Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by cstem View Post
    Mike- I would love to take that fork apart for you. If you let me, and it's a fixable thing cheap- you buy the parts, I'll fix it and you sell it. I just want the experience. And you can watch!
    And you already have a buyer who is interested
    -- Bikes are effin cool --

  15. #15
    SamuraiBunnyGuy
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    i just got in from riding again,, it still functions fine (unlike a fork with shot compression which will flip you on the first bump),, but i noticed that when i'm off the bike, and i try to push the handlebars down as quickly and suddenly as possible with all my weight (compressing the fork as much as i can), there is a kind of crunching noise near the bottom of the compression,, could be a piece of broken whatever inside is down at the bottom.

    if it is this spring rod thing, its been broken long enough that its probably done some more internal damage, and both sides are leaking oil.

    if i did get it fixed,, i could put it on,, i dunno,, a 2nd altitude Rocky Mountain Altitude 50 RSL XC Trail Marathon Full Suspenion Frame New | eBay
    i don't like how they changed the frame for 2013

  16. #16
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casual Observer View Post
    Doesn't your bike have rim brakes? You're excluded from giving advice on this site!

    Check out the 650B forks as well. They are more for enduro, but you get more bang for the buck.
    Yes it does.... but here my latest fork rebuild...

    This is from a Manitou Minute Expert - A Modern fork.
    my fork is dead, replacement options-img-20140227-00315.jpg
    Joe
    2003 KHS Alite 4000 26" Hardtail - XC, All mountain, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  17. #17
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    Forks are not difficult to service (based on the Reba and Fox I do once a year). Give it a try, plenty of you tube videos in addition to the manufacturer's sites.
    Your fork does look like it has a stanchion tube problem in the picture you posted at about the 5-1/8" mark. If that's the side leaking oil you may have a problem...

  18. #18
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    best bang for your buck imho are bottom of the line RockShox air forks... i.e. recon silver, gold 30, or recon gold... But then again I cannot tell the difference from a low end air shock to a high end air shock...
    Below Par on the Gnar

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