What's available that's solid but inexpensive? with QR? I wanna build up a fixie wheel for my road bike but I've got 135mm spacing on the frame.

surly's fixed/free hub (thru QBP), van dessel hubset(vandesselsports.com), IROcycle hubset (irocycle.com), etc.

What's available that's solid but inexpensive? with QR? I wanna build up a fixie wheel for my road bike but I've got 135mm spacing on the frame.

You do not want a QR fixie. It will not hold. The forces are much higher than with a FW.

I have the Van Dessel (sp). Not the highest quality but it has very nice allen head bolt and big washers that work well. It is a full f&r hubset and comes with a 16t cog and lockring for ~$75. Lockrings and cogs alone cost $12+ and $16-30.

eh, maybe..... i'm using a surly flipflop with a 135 qr axle. bolt on steel skewer, with steel faces on both ends. surly crosscheck frame. running fixed. no problems slipping. it can be done, but he'd need a good steel faced qr.

What's available that's solid but inexpensive? with QR? I wanna build up a fixie wheel for my road bike but I've got 135mm spacing on the frame.
Saw a dude with an XT fixed hub yesterday.
He took surly cog and drilled a 6 bolt Disc pattern in it. He replaced the QR axel with a solid and it looked very cool.
Wade

And it would be a heck of a lot more work as well. If I wanted to convert a regular hub I'd just weld the freehub body

An XT hub is around $50, the VanDessel with a cog and lockring (worth around $30) is $45. Looks like the Vandessel axle is hollow so if I wanted to slide a QR in there it would work fine. I've got an old-school Shimano steel QR that I might try when I get the wheel built.

i used the Van Dessel hub on my mtb fixie. the 16t cog that came with it was machined too large and it stripped out the fixed gear side of the hub with in a mile of trail riding. was fine around town. GOOD quality fixie cogs run around $25, the 16t that came with the hub isn't really worth more than $10, and it wears pretty fast. but then, thats me riding it and you know how that is. I've already shark-fined the steel King Cog that I got at Barbie Camp. NONE of my DX or Novatech cogs show any noticeable wear.

You should be able to get the Van Dessel front and rear hubset for around $75, the allen head bolts work pretty good.

you gonna ride fixed??

bob


And it would be a heck of a lot more work as well. If I wanted to convert a regular hub I'd just weld the freehub body

An XT hub is around $50, the VanDessel with a cog and lockring (worth around $30) is $45. Looks like the Vandessel axle is hollow so if I wanted to slide a QR in there it would work fine. I've got an old-school Shimano steel QR that I might try when I get the wheel built.

eh, maybe..... i'm using a surly flipflop with a 135 qr axle. bolt on steel skewer, with steel faces on both ends. surly crosscheck frame. running fixed. no problems slipping. it can be done, but he'd need a good steel faced qr.

Bolt-on skewers can be tightened more than QRs. The bolts on the Van Dessel work great and are no harder to tighten than a bolt-on skewer.

of the van dessel hubs. didn't know about them when i bought my surly hubs, though, or they'd coulda been contendahs!

sounds like they are his best bet. good bolts, and 135 already, no need to respace, right?

I called up my friendly LBS last night and got a dead freehub that I then welded solid.. Well the first time the weld didn't hold.. so I cut some nice slots in the back of the freehub and re-welded it, now it seems to be holding fine. I'll see how this works out. I don't plan on riding fixed on the mtb but I want to try it out on the road.

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looks good! think the weld will hold? i've heard of doing it that way, but not actually seen that particular setup in person.

www.kogswell.com has some nice, cheap 135/fixed hubs, as well as some nice frames.

looks good! think the weld will hold? i've heard of doing it that way, but not actually seen that particular setup in person.
I'm pretty sure it'll hold this time.. I cut some pretty deep slots in the back of the freehub then filled them back up with weld. The weld didn't get any penetration the first time and I was relying on that to hold it. I kinda messed up the back of the freehub and had to do quite a bit of dremmeling to get it to fit back onto the hubshell.


I jumped up and down on the crank the second time and it didn't break loose. The Novatech cog slops a little bit on the splines though so it's not quite perfect...