I wondering how I can get rid of the singulator (don't like it) without having to spend much on new hubs or expensive parts.

I read somewhere about filing the dropouts in order to have more room. Also saw some pics of a conversion using BMX tensioners but don't really understood how the tensioners were installed.

Here's what I use now, as you can see is a 9sp hub with Flashpoint spacers/cog kit and a singulator.

You can try wedging a granny gear 'tween the upper and lower portions of the chain....worked for me. Difficult to 'splain, tho.

I wondering how I can get rid of the singulator (don't like it) without having to spend much on new hubs or expensive parts.

I read somewhere about filing the dropouts in order to have more room. Also saw some pics of a conversion using BMX tensioners but don't really understood how the tensioners were installed.

Here's what I use now, as you can see is a 9sp hub with Flashpoint spacers/cog kit and a singulator.

You could try filing flats on the axle to give you a little more room to take up the slack. I've done that on my old vertical dropout aluminum frame. I was surprised how much slack you can take up by doing that.

Of course another option is to try some different ratios. The
FixMeUp! calculator (http://www.peak.org/~fixin/fixmeup.html) is your friend for that kind of stuff. Put your current chainring/cog in and try to find something with a slightly longer chainstay length (it doesn't need to be much longer to take up a lot of slack).

Looks like you're pretty close already.

Search google for FixMeUp and see if you can find another good gear that would provide a tensionerless solution.

Ditto the fix me up and check out Gene Spicer. He's now making 3/32" halflinks that will make up most differences you'll encounter. I run a 32x17 with a half link, no tensioner, no filing. Cost's about $10 which is pretty stinkin cheap for something that works. My buddy uses one too for his 32x18 setup and has had no problems.

I am using one now with the Singleator taking up a little slack in the push up position. Used it yesterday and is working great. It might get you to a position where you don't even need the tensioner. Worth a try for 10 bucks. I was short less than a link, but more than a half, so it got me closer at least and allowed for a better push up advantage which eliminated slight skipping problem I had in the push down position.

That works better if you need a shorter chainline.

He'd need to make his chainline just a little longer. If he filed, his axle would have to be at the back of the drops, and I suspect it would always be sliding forward.

Is a 9sp chain 3/32 or 1/8?

I'm using a 32/18 combination.

9 speed chain is 3/32"

FixMeUp says that 32:16 fits a little more than 16.2" chainline (plus or minus a link). These ratios are about 16.1". Find some rings/cogs and try them out:

34:17
33:18
32:19

Be aware that a new chain will make a lot of difference.

Thanks Eddy.

You're right about the chain, I'm using a chain that was on my gearie and used for about a year. Do you think that by just replacing the chain and adding the half link will be enough?

Thanks Eddy.

You're right about the chain, I'm using a chain that was on my gearie and used for about a year. Do you think that by just replacing the chain and adding the half link will be enough?

hard to say but you can easily "stretch" a chain by that amount. I find that when I put a new chain on its so tight I can barely get things moving but after a few hours riding, its settled in nicely.

Another alternative will be to change the cog to a 19t following the FixMeUp suggestions that Freddy posted.

Is it really different from a 18t? In terms of pedal force, etc.

3/32 is 8sp

11/128 is 9sp