How do you get over a log when you are going too slow to hop it? I'm talking about a log that's about 16-18inches high and I usually find on an angle on the trail which makes it even harder. These logs usually have a lot of chain ring marks on them. Some tips would be nice.

How do you get over a log when you are going too slow to hop it? I'm talking about a log that's about 16-18inches high and I usually find on an angle on the trail which makes it even harder. These logs usually have a lot of chain ring marks on them. Some tips would be nice.

Lift and shift.

Lift your wheels, one at a time as they approach the log and shift your weight to stay centered on the bike.
...well, I guess that does not really explain much. Go out and practice.

I am not that good at lifting my rear tire (although now that i have clipless it is a lot easier) so i just find that as long as i get my front tire over i can get my rear one over as long as i mash on the pedals hard enough once over the log. like the guy said, practice makes perfect.

How do you get over a log when you are going too slow to hop it? I'm talking about a log that's about 16-18inches high and I usually find on an angle on the trail which makes it even harder. These logs usually have a lot of chain ring marks on them. Some tips would be nice.

personally, I dismount and lift the bike over 16-18" logs if my mojo is off.

HOWEVER, assuming you're not a puss like me, unweight your fork/do a wheelie to get the front over the log, then shift your weight forward to keep the momentum going for the rear. If it helps, imagine your bike is a sort of teeter-totter; as the front end goes down, the back end rises (that's where the chainring marks come from). This isn't very good for your chain ring, but then again, it's a technique for when you're going too slow, not for all those other times when your riding is perfect and you don't have to worry about it ;)

personally, I dismount and lift the bike over 16-18" logs if my mojo is off.

HOWEVER, assuming you're not a puss like me, unweight your fork/do a wheelie to get the front over the log, then shift your weight forward to keep the momentum going for the rear. If it helps, imagine your bike is a sort of teeter-totter; as the front end goes down, the back end rises (that's where the chainring marks come from). This isn't very good for your chain ring, but then again, it's a technique for when you're going too slow, not for all those other times when your riding is perfect and you don't have to worry about it ;)

What about getting up a large step that is 16-18 inches?

What about getting up a large step that is 16-18 inches?

Easy! I wheelie/unweight and lunge ahead while pedaling to provide momentum to send the rear up and over. Then I fall down.

Easy! I wheelie/unweight and lunge ahead while pedaling to provide momentum to send the rear up and over. Then I fall down.

If I pedal my pedals will hit the step once the rear wheel gets close.. how fast should I be going?

http://pages.prodigy.com/CharlieB/log.htm

great film clip on clearing logs. It is at a higher speed than you wanted but i might help.

big thing is to get your chest close to the bars. Not that I can do it , but hope it helps

big thing is to get your chest close to the bars.

yup! it's just like riding up a lip jump. you also need to visualize the bike going up and over but once you wheelie that front end over, just throw the bike forward letting the back end naturally ride up behind. For something like an 18" log, you really won't find that your chainring it hitting it once you get the hang og the move. The forward "thrust" part is pretty sudden once you clear but you really don't have to have much speed to do a move this size.

Wheelie the front wheel up on the top of the log.
Hop from the front tire to the back tire landing on the log while lunging the bike foreward and keeping your body back.

Pedal away !

Wheelie the front wheel up on the top of the log.
Hop from the front tire to the back tire landing on the log while lunging the bike foreward and keeping your body back.

Pedal away !

Yep, this is the way, DO NOT hop your front wheel OVER the log, put it on top, and then hop your back wheel onto or over. Being sure to keep your weight centered, let the bike move under you. Your position to the bike will shift drastically, but compared to the ground, it is not that much.

It helps to lower the seat while learning.

Also, this might be a good drill to practice.

In a grassy field, get two cinder blocks, lay them on their side (shortest way possible) and put a 2x8 over them to simulate a FLAT log. Practice this move (above method). If you miss it, the board will fall off, no harm. If you drag your back wheel, it will fall off. If you do it right, the board is still there and you'll know it was done right.

Once you get the feel on this setting (8-10"), then you're ready to try on similar sized logs. Less than a year ago I could not clear an 8" log, now I can hit them well over 24", sometimes even bigger than that (and it looks cool too) :cool:

Like the others said, practice. Start with basics and fundamentals and practice, practice, practice.

A couple of other points:

to get over the big stuff, whether it's a log or a ledge, you need to be able to lift your front wheel without pedalling (some may disagree, but this is the most common/reliable way of doing it) It's called a manual, and it's done my quickly shifting your weight back and pulling upward on the handlebar. Your body acts as a counterweight to the front wheel, and the front end should come up with a minimum of effort from your arms.

Once you feel comfortable with raising your front wheel to a specified height, and know that you'll be able to place it on the log as you roll along at jogging pace (and not a moment before you feel pretty comfortable, because screwing up now can ruin your day, or worse,) then you'll ride up toward the log and manual your front end up and onto the log. It should hit just on your side of the top of the log.

As the front wheel touches down on the top of the log, you have prepared your body by crouching a bit, and at the INSTANT the tire hits the log, you hop. The goal is to hop so that your rear wheel hits in exactly the same place that your front tire hit. This is usually pretty easy, as it's a short hop.

Keep your bars straight! As your rear wheel hits on the log, your front wheel will probably be hitting the dirt again. Now, let the rear wheel roll and drop off of the log.

Sometimes your front wheel may ride a little high during the hop. Stay comfortable and it should drop. You'd have to do a mighty powerful hop to loop over backwards.

The beauty of this method, and why it allows you to get over the big stuff, is that the chainrings NEVER touch anything. When chainrings touch the log, it slows you and this is usually bad.

You can practice this on smaller logs (even ones that you can easily roll over) and work up as your precision and confidence grows.

Good luck. Always wear safety gear and consult a physician before beginning any excercise program.

Check out this dude's log jumping page http://pages.prodigy.com/CharlieB/log.htm