My tube cutter is dead and my hacksaw blade is dull. Time for some new tools. What do people prefer for handlbars, steer tubes; Al vs Steel, etc?

...I prefer a pipe cutter because (1) it's almost impossible to screw up so long as it's been measured and marked correctly, and (2) there is a definite lack of metal shavings to make their way into the bearings.

The downside of the pipe cutters is that you need a good one and that the tubing can become flared to the point that it needs to be filed down if the job is rushed, canceling out point #(2) from above.

A tubing cutter is used for cutting tubes and a hack saw is used for hacking! :D Without using a guide with a hacksaw the tubing cutter is the only way to get a nice straight cut. Both methods should be dressed with a file to de-burr. So the answer is A: tubing cutter, final answer!

Dude i red youre post and thought holy %^&*. Went to the gararge grabed the tubing cutter my seat post and magic happend perfect cut. No energy and straight. RAD. thanks for the thought!

Ever try a tubing cutter on carbon?

My tube cutter is dead and my hacksaw blade is dull. Time for some new tools. What do people prefer for handlbars, steer tubes; Al vs Steel, etc?

A hacksaw with a nice, sharp blade works well as long as you are patient and set a mark with tape or use a guide. Cheap too.

What Ebo said.

Have cut down steerer tubes, carbon & al bars, carbon & al posts and assorted bolts with my hacksaw. Takes a little masking tape, skill and patience to do it just right - but if you have no other needs for a tube cutter the cheap solution will serve you well...

I use the tube cutter for everything but carbon because it always does a perfect job. I use a hacksaw on carbon because I am afraid of cracking it. Even with a homemade jig (instructions here: http://www.eastonbike.com/downloadable_files/r&d_files/R&D-05-Carbon.pdf ), I always make a mess of it. Luckily, a sanding wheel on my dremel works real nice on carbon - just make sure you have a vaccum running to suck up the carcenogenic particles.

A stable vice with a hacksaw and the park tool cutting guide have worked very well for me for cutting seatposts and steerer tubes. The guide clamps the item and makes you cut straight. When I'm done cutting I leave the tube in the guide but slide it out a bit further for the filing/sanding step.

A fresh or sharp, well-tensioned blade and a smooth, patient hand with the hacksaw has served me well in the years since I've had a Park guide to use. The tubing cutter is great, and easy, but a hacksaw and a file work fine, too.

...I prefer a pipe cutter because (1) it's almost impossible to screw up so long as it's been measured and marked correctly, and (2) there is a definite lack of metal shavings to make their way into the bearings.

The downside of the pipe cutters is that you need a good one and that the tubing can become flared to the point that it needs to be filed down if the job is rushed, canceling out point #(2) from above. yes it does flare, but I use needle nose pliers, and bent out the flare( the jaws of pliers do not grab the actual steerer just the flare) and eventually it breaks off and no shavings at all.