This was the xc race version of the i-drive with shorter chainstays, longer top tube, and (I guess) lighter frame wt.....offered first in 2001, but now offered on sale at Greenfish Adventure Sports for $550 for frame and Manitou QR shock, and various other options with Manitou forks/Cane Creek headsets. Site states frames made in 2004 at Kinesis USA (?Oregon). Don't know about warranty or replacement parts issues, but it looks like could be built up into a race-worthy vehicle. To make this more of an exercise, would ask GT affectionados to come on board and spec out a build that would come in under, lets say, $1800- $2400 maximum. (one build on the site listed is $1999). How would you build up this bike for racing and trail riding with todays parts? :cool:

I wouldn't. I have had nothing but problems with my I-drive. Too many to list here. I personally will never buy another one.

I wouldn't. I have had nothing but problems with my I-drive. Too many to list here. I personally will never buy another one.


I, on the other hand loved my i-Drive Team frame. (Until it cracked!) Got mine from Supergo in December '01 and rode it for a year and a half. Put on just over 1000 miles on it. Not a lot, but plenty to know I liked it a lot. Well, the frame developed a crack right on weld, and the new owners of GT (Pacific Cycle LLC) would not honor the warranty. Asked me for $500 for a new rear triangle :mad: See my review under '2001 full suspension'. Anyhow, I'm now on a IronHorse Hollowpoint Expert and their customer service is second to none.

As for the frame you are looking at, I can attest that it is fast both in the climbs and descents, and handles great. It's relatively short amount of rear end travel makes it a very good race bike, and the price is $300 less than what I paid. Call Greenfish and get some more detail on the frame. ie. warranty and when was it really built. I'm guessing the rear shock was put on in 2004, but the frame was put together in 2001. I could be wrong thought. Let me know if you want pictures of my frame, I still have it.

Supergo still has 2001 I-drive race frames $400.00 new, probibly a fox float shock.

I would not but one but some people love them. Road a 2001 1.0 I-drive for one tear and put over 2,000 miles on it. 90% dirt. Had no problems and sold it to a freind that still rides it. My bike skills outgrew it and I needed a frame that I could lower the seat on.

http://www.supergo.com/profile.cfm?LPROD_ID=17869&lsubcat_id=1818&lcat_id=7604&referpage=

I, on the other hand loved my i-Drive Team frame. (Until it cracked!) Got mine from Supergo in December '01 and rode it for a year and a half. Put on just over 1000 miles on it. Not a lot, but plenty to know I liked it a lot. Well, the frame developed a crack right on weld, and the new owners of GT (Pacific Cycle LLC) would not honor the warranty. Asked me for $500 for a new rear triangle :mad: See my review under '2001 full suspension'. Anyhow, I'm now on a IronHorse Hollowpoint Expert and their customer service is second to none.

As for the frame you are looking at, I can attest that it is fast both in the climbs and descents, and handles great. It's relatively short amount of rear end travel makes it a very good race bike, and the price is $300 less than what I paid. Call Greenfish and get some more detail on the frame. ie. warranty and when was it really built. I'm guessing the rear shock was put on in 2004, but the frame was put together in 2001. I could be wrong thought. Let me know if you want pictures of my frame, I still have it.


I loved mine too, for the short time that it lasted....

This was the xc race version of the i-drive with shorter chainstays, longer top tube, and (I guess) lighter frame wt.....offered first in 2001, but now offered on sale at Greenfish Adventure Sports for $550 for frame and Manitou QR shock, and various other options with Manitou forks/Cane Creek headsets. Site states frames made in 2004 at Kinesis USA (?Oregon). Don't know about warranty or replacement parts issues, but it looks like could be built up into a race-worthy vehicle. To make this more of an exercise, would ask GT affectionados to come on board and spec out a build that would come in under, lets say, $1800- $2400 maximum. (one build on the site listed is $1999). How would you build up this bike for racing and trail riding with todays parts? :cool:

I DID BUY A NEW I-DRIVE TEAM FROM GREENFISH ADVENTURE SPROTS. THE FRAME LOOKS GREAT. THE REASON I GOT IT IS BECAUSE MY I-DRIVE RACE FRAME CRACKED AND I ALWAYS WANTED A TEAM FRAME. I LOVED MY RACE FRAME AND AM SURE I WILL LOVE THIS ONE AS WELL. THE FRAME ARE THE SAME, USE THE SAME EASTON TUBING. THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS ON THR TEAM FRAME THERE IS A GUSSET WHERE THE DOWN TUBE AND THE BENT TOP TUBE WELD TO THE BIG TUBE THAT HOLDS THE EXCENTRIC(THIS IS THE THING THAT THE BOTTOM BRACKET IS IN THAT FLOATS ON BEARINGS) EVEN WITH THIS GUSSET THE FRAMES DO WEIGHT THE SAME. I HAD ME OLD I-DRIVE RACE DOWN TO 24lbs 2oz SO I SHOULD BE AT THE SAME WEIGHT WITH MY NEW FRAME. I REPLACED THE MANITOU SHOCH WITH A NEW FOX RP3 SHOX WITCH IS LIGHTER. ALSO I AN GOING WITH SDG'S NEW I-FLY RAIL SEAT AND POST WITCH IS REALLY LIGHT. ANY WAY I WILL TRY TO POST A PHOTO WHEN I AM DONE BUILDING IT UP.

I Talked To Greenfish Adventures Sprots About This Frame. It Was Made In 2004 By Kinesis Usa. Kinesis Usa Had Parts Left Over From Building These Frames In 2001. Pacific Cycle Gave Them The O.k. To Finish Building The Frames To Use Up The Malerial. I Also Taked To Kinesis Usa And They Said This Is What Happened.they Also Said That They Were Sorry That They Could Not Work With Gt To Develop This Frame Design More. So What You Get Is A New Frame Built In 2004, Not A Frame That Has Been Hidden In Some Warehouse Sence 2001.
I Got One And I Am Almost Finfshed Building It.i Will Post Photos.
Later

Kinesis also owns Mountain Cycle and they are located here in Portland. It is possible the frames were finished in the MC factory.
I love my IDrive and use it for x country and freeriding. I put the 1.75" x 6.5" Fox on for 5.25" of rear travel with a Marzocchi Z1 fork

Nathan

Here is my Team I-drive

and glad to see its in its rightful place in the kitchen ;) Looks like full racer mentality.Could you post the final build specs and weight? Also, any thoughts about Fox RP3 or SPV shocks vs. a more linear shock for this type suspension? Can you get a new frame warranty? (I think I know the answer to that one :( )

and glad to see its in its rightful place in the kitchen ;) Looks like full racer mentality.Could you post the final build specs and weight? Also, any thoughts about Fox RP3 or SPV shocks vs. a more linear shock for this type suspension? Can you get a new frame warranty? (I think I know the answer to that one :( )

Don't ask why its in the kitchen. The bike is full XTR with the the old style thumb shifters (witch I like), 2002 RockShox Sid SL, Avid Ti brakes and levers, Easton EC70 stem and CT2 bars with ATI Jackson grips. I am going to change these grips soon, maybe go with some ODI lock-on. SDG I-Fly I-Beam set and post system. I hand built the wheels myself and had my local shot to true them. They are built up with a set of GT cnc hubs (silver with a ti free wheel in the rear and very lite) DT 14/15 ga spokes and an old pair of Mavic 217 rims. I run Hutchinson Mosquito lite 2.0 tires with Stans No Tubes. I run Crank Brother egg beater pedals (witch are on my new Zaskar Expert bike right now). I just receive my new 2005 Sid Team fork and my new Crank Brothers Ti pedals, And I am going to be building up another set of wheels with another set of GT hubs and a set of Sun UFO rims (all black). The weight is 24lbs. 2oz. witch converts to 24.125 lbs. I dont know what the new fork pedals and wheels will do to the weight. As far as riding I leave the shock in full open. the bike seems to respond better on the rough stuff. I do put it on propedal on long semi smooth climbs, but perty much leave it full open. I do lock it out on the pavement. I love this bike. It is a screamer on single track and it climbs like a cougar (mountain lion). Well for me it does. As far as warranty I am going to go to the GT website and and fill out there warranty thing there, but the frame came with no papers. And yes of this frame brakes I would buy another. (if there are any left)

Don't ask why its in the kitchen. The bike is full XTR with the the old style thumb shifters (witch I like), 2002 RockShox Sid SL, Avid Ti brakes and levers, Easton EC70 stem and CT2 bars with ATI Jackson grips. I am going to change these grips soon, maybe go with some ODI lock-on. SDG I-Fly I-Beam set and post system. I hand built the wheels myself and had my local shot to true them. They are built up with a set of GT cnc hubs (silver with a ti free wheel in the rear and very lite) DT 14/15 ga spokes and an old pair of Mavic 217 rims. I run Hutchinson Mosquito lite 2.0 tires with Stans No Tubes. I run Crank Brother egg beater pedals (witch are on my new Zaskar Expert bike right now). I just receive my new 2005 Sid Team fork and my new Crank Brothers Ti pedals, And I am going to be building up another set of wheels with another set of GT hubs and a set of Sun UFO rims (all black). The weight is 24lbs. 2oz. witch converts to 24.125 lbs. I dont know what the new fork pedals and wheels will do to the weight. As far as riding I leave the shock in full open. the bike seems to respond better on the rough stuff. I do put it on propedal on long semi smooth climbs, but perty much leave it full open. I do lock it out on the pavement. I love this bike. It is a screamer on single track and it climbs like a cougar (mountain lion). Well for me it does. As far as warranty I am going to go to the GT website and and fill out there warranty thing there, but the frame came with no papers. And yes of this frame brakes I would buy another. (if there are any left)


This is my i-drive team. Im at the satge of building up another one with Sram xo 2006 stuff
will keep people posted on the new one when it ready

SWEET LOOKING RIDE. WHATS THE WEIGHT? I JUST REWEIGHTED MY BIKE ON A SET OF SCALES AT MY WORK. I'M DOWN TO 23lbs 4oz. I LOVE MY BIKE. HOW DO YOU LIKE THE REBA FORK? KEPT MY POSTED ON YOUR OTHER BIKE BUILD.
LATER
LARRY

SWEET LOOKING RIDE. WHATS THE WEIGHT? I JUST REWEIGHTED MY BIKE ON A SET OF SCALES AT MY WORK. I'M DOWN TO 23lbs 4oz. I LOVE MY BIKE. HOW DO YOU LIKE THE REBA FORK? KEPT MY POSTED ON YOUR OTHER BIKE BUILD.
LATER
LARRY


Hi there my bike is around 11.5kg at the moment but the new one im building up i hope it under 10kg with all that carbon stuff on it

Hi there my bike is around 11.5kg at the moment but the new one im building up i hope it under 10kg with all that carbon stuff on it

Just updating i have changed the xt shifter to xtr also i have added the crank brothers C cos only C version makes yellow ones :(

Just updating i have changed the xt shifter to xtr also i have added the crank brothers C cos only C version makes yellow ones :(
The Reba fork i must say the best fork i've used better then most of the fox range good stuff rock shox now im waiting for the new 2006 reba world cup. i should have it by next week fingers cross

SWEET. I AM RUNNING A 05 ROCK SHOX SID TEAM RIGHT NOW. GREAT FORK FOR RACING AND IT LIGHT. BUT I'M THINKING ABOUT GOING WITH A 06 FOX FRLT 100mm. I HAVE BOTTOMED OUT THE SID TWO TIMES AND I'M THINKING I MIGHT NEED A LITTLE MORE UP FRONT. I WOULD GO WITH A NEW REBA BUT THEN I WOULD HAVE TO GO WITH DISK. I'M NOT READY FOR THAT SEEING THAT I HAVE THREE SETS OF RACING RIMS. I WILL UP DATE MY PARTS LIST AND A NEW PHOTO SOON.
LATER

Im just waiting for my salsa blue colour seat and wheel skewers what u think salar or hope?

I have just ordered my component to go on to the new bike

Gt i-drive team frame
Fsa K-force crankset
Thomson elite seatpost ( i really want masterpiece but for 50g lighter double price Na)
Thomson elite stem
Fsa K-force falt carbon bar
Odi grip wiht lock ring
2006 Sram Xo trigger
2006 Sram Xo carbon rear derailer
XTR front derailer
2006 Avid Juicy carbon 160mm disk
Shimano SIS cable set
Crank brother pedals C
2006 sram PG-990 Cassette
Sram pg-990 chain
Selle italia prolink carbon seat
Rock shox reba still deciding if i want the team version or the carbon 2006 version
Spinergy xcylone with yellow spokes
Ritchey Z-max tires

I guess thats all.
Picture should not me long i will post it ASAP when it done just that it hard to put it together with no tools have to borrow them

This Is Going To Be A Sweet Ride. Cant Wait To See Photos. Kept Me Posted.
Later,
Larry

fianlly my 2nd i-drive is on the way will be ready to ride on tuesday but still need to make appointment to get my fork spread yellow to match the frame

Nearly finished just waiting for the fork to get painted in yellow to match the frame like my other bike

This is my first post here. I'm going to order one of these frames. I built a zaskar team ht a few years ago and I liked the bike a lot but was more or less forced to sell it. It was a nice ride and now I'm stoked to be getting another one only in full suspension.

What legnth derailler cage do you use on it?

I Use A Xtr Read Derailler With The Short Cage. This Cuts Down On The Chain Slap. Hope This Helps.

Hi LIN520,you say the weight of your bike is 11.5kg,i wish i could get mine down to that,maybe you could give me an idea of where to start with saving weight on my I-Drive,its an 04 model and currently weighs in at 23kg
Its basically got alot of standard gear on it which is probably where the weight is.
Avid BB5 disc
Marzocchi MX Comp with pro ETA
WTB Speed disc wheels
XT shifters and rear der.

Any advice will be welcomed.

Cheers

Kiwi

What size frame did you get? It's hard to tell from the pics. I'm 5' 10' and currently ride an 18" Avalanche and a 16" LTS-1. I like the fit of the 16" better than the 18". So maybe a medium? Small?

Tom

hi there fistly you wouldnt be able to achieve the weight as i have cos my frame is an easton frame yours is aluminium.

If u want to cut down the weight i would look into a few carbon component like stem handlebar seatpost etc and make be the same wheel as i have which weight nothing

Its a medium frame and if i could get the weight down to around the 20kg mark i would be happy,what do you think?

as i said earlier change a few carbon stuff and the wheel and maybe get a rock shox sid that will cut down the weight to around 18-19kg

hi there fistly you wouldnt be able to achieve the weight as i have cos my frame is an easton frame yours is aluminium.

If u want to cut down the weight i would look into a few carbon component like stem handlebar seatpost etc and make be the same wheel as i have which weight nothing
You said "mine is an Easton frame and yours is aluminum". Well Easton is aluminum. Its just a lighter grade aluminum. Its 6061 Easton alloy and not the more comonly used 7071 alloy. And yes it is a more premium material to use, lighter and just as strong. It is not used as much because of the cost. GT only used Easton 6061 on the Team, XCR-LE & Zaskar-LE models in 2000' and 2001'. That is why these models weigh significantly less.

Actually Easton is the manufacturer of that specific 6061 (Alcoa and Reynolds are two others). The 7000 series aluminum they typically use is either 7005 or 7075. Both of which are stronger and more rigid than 6061. The advantage that 6061 has is, it's considerabley lighter than both 7005 and 7075.

Tom

So does that mean that they are more likely to crack by the seat post than the heavier frames

Not necessarily. Some would argue that 6061 frames are LESS likely to crack as its easier to weld (debatable). I've seen both 7000 series and 6000 series frames crack. The real determining factor is the welder and how well he/she knows what the hell they're doing.

Tom

hi sorry mine is easton and yours is aluminium trust me there is a big difference in weight

kiwimtbr, are you sure your i-Drive weights 23 kilograms? That's close to 50lbs! You sure it's not 13kg (28.6lbs)? 28-29lbs is pretty heavy for an XC rig. 50lbs would be brutal. I'd be really suprised if that was accurate as your frame is only roughly 6 lbs (a size small Team is 5.11 lbs with rear shock).

lin520, Easton 6061 IS aluminum. And not THAT much lighter (maybe 1 lbs/2.204kg at best - same size frame).

Tom

Florida, you got me thinking, so i have just re-weighed my bike and i must have been on something to say it weighed in at 23kg,it really weighs in at 14kg which is much better but still with room to improve.I bought some carbon goodies online today so its a start i suppose.

Cheers

Kiwi.

as most people will know that easton has been replaced with carbon now but in my mine easton tubing is still the best material for building a bike frame and just found out 2 of the easton tubing frameis approx 1 aluminium gt i-drive frame.
im not a fan of carbon due to cracking if for example u hit a tree etc and if u are out in a advanture ride u dont want a cracking frame in the middle of nowhere

lin520, did you paint that fork yourself? If not, how much did it cost you to have it done?

lin520, i seein your pics that you have the rear shock turned around the other way to what i have? is there a specific reason for this and does it efect its proper use.I gather that it would be less likely to get dirt in the seals.

Look for ward to your reply

Kiwi.

yes i painted the fork was dont by my uncle if u were to get this done in a shop will cost u around $100-200 australian dollars they use car paint. with the rear dosent matter which way u put it all work the same but i believe ur way is better just that i cant be bother changing it

yo lin520, how much do those bikes weigh?

Well in my opinion one pound is a huge weight difference. And you are correct in saying there is a one pound difference between the two metals. When I had my 2000' XCR-LE it was made out of Easton 6061 and I compared the weight of two large frames one was a XCR-1000 and my XCR-LE same size same design two different alloys Easton 6061 & 7000 series and there was almost one pound difference. They say the Easton 6061 is just as strong, but I question that. I cracked "TWO" Easton 6061 XCR-LE frames at the seat tower. Both cracks were identical in location on the frame. The 2000' XCR-LE was the premium lightweight 4.6" travel I-Drive. And a lot of it had to do with the use of Easton 6061 alloy. It was the only I-Drive of 2000' that used that alloy.

XT 8SP shifters
XT 8SP cassette
Easton EA50 stem
Easton Monkey Lite Carbon SL bars
LX brake levers
LX derailers
LX "05 cranks
Mavic Crossland wheel set
Avid BB7 brakes
Skareb Super fork
Race Face seat post
Selle trans am seat
Salsa seat clamp
Egg Beater pedals
Kenda Nev's tires

28.2 pounds

I need to see updated pictures daemon... :thumbsup:

Well I may be the last person to buy the team frame (in XL atleast). I bought one from greenfishsport.com and then the xl disappeared from the selection list.
The one thing that I'm wondering about is the extent of the cracks in the frames. If this happens to me what is the likelyhood of a welding the frame back together?

After I get this puppy together I'll first ride it then try to post a picture. I'm glad to see this thread as it has given me hope for the frame I just bought.:thumbsup:

I just did the 12 miles of hell race( Pretty Rocky Trail) in Oklahoma and there were two of us in I-Drive Team frames. The one I saw was a small frame and it looked like the guy had the seat mast rewelded. It hadn't been painted and it didn't have the holes (or the ondulation in the small frame seat mast). It looked totally flat. I guess you can weld it again if you crack it. I have had a medium frame for a few months now. I weigh 205 lbs. and the bike weighs 26 lbs. I don't have any cracks on it and I inspect it almost every weekend or after a long rough ride. I had to change my style of riding to suit the frame. I don't do any more jumps higher than a couple of feet and I try to finesse the bike during turns instead of dogging it. I'm a heavy weight and if you are too you may want to take it easier on the bike. I had a 2004 I-drive 1.0 and I had no problem roughing it up. That frame was sturdier than this one. The Team is a xcountry race frame, don't expect it to put up with 4 or 5 foot drops for too long:nono: (it won't). With my weight I'm sure the possibility of cracking it is pretty high:( but by then I hope I can afford another frame. Like the new Carbon Pro. MMMMMM!! Delicious.:p

GT J

Hi Guys,

I just called Greenfish about this frame. They said that the bushings are standard but I might have trouble finding I-drive parts. Did you have any problems getting parts?

I found a UK website that should ship to the US: http://www.betd.co.uk/product_list.asp?CategoryID=102
There is no telling how much longer they will have the parts though.

Well I may be the last person to buy the team frame (in XL atleast). I bought one from greenfishsport.com and then the xl disappeared from the selection list.
The one thing that I'm wondering about is the extent of the cracks in the frames. If this happens to me what is the likelyhood of a welding the frame back together?

After I get this puppy together I'll first ride it then try to post a picture. I'm glad to see this thread as it has given me hope for the frame I just bought.:thumbsup:
How could this thread give you hope in that frame. The frame is an awesome design in terms of performance,looks and handeling. But unfortunately it is inevitable that it will crack. And it is not reccomended to re-weld a 6061 aluminum frame. The reheating actually weakens the metal. I wish you good luck that your's doesn't crack.

And I love it. (see attachment) I wish I knew how to post a picture on this sight. Anyway, I went to Greenfish in Andes, NY on saturday and picked it up. Somehow this one slipped through the cracks and was not showing up on their computers but when they checked the warehouse they found it.

My build plan is:

GT I-drive frame
Rockshox Reba Race fork
Mavic Crossmax XL wheels
XT crank, FD, RD, shifters, cassette
Avid Single Digit 7 V brakes and levers
Shwalbe Racing Ralph and Nobby Nick tires with Stans
Terry Fly saddle
RaceFace Evolve XC seatpost
Speedplay Frog peddles
Truvative XR stem
Sette OS Carbon Flat Bar
ODI Rouge Lock On Grips

Will I make it under 25 lbs?

Do you really leave that big hole open around the bottom bracket? I thought there would be something to cover it.

And I love it. (see attachment) I wish I knew how to post a picture on this sight. Anyway, I went to Greenfish in Andes, NY on saturday and picked it up. Somehow this one slipped through the cracks and was not showing up on their computers but when they checked the warehouse they found it.

My build plan is:

GT I-drive frame
Rockshox Reba Race fork
Mavic Crossmax XL wheels
XT crank, FD, RD, shifters, cassette
Avid Single Digit 7 V brakes and levers
Shwalbe Racing Ralph and Nobby Nick tires with Stans
Terry Fly saddle
RaceFace Evolve XC seatpost
Speedplay Frog peddles
Truvative XR stem
Sette OS Carbon Flat Bar
ODI Rouge Lock On Grips

Will I make it under 25 lbs?

Do you really leave that big hole open around the bottom bracket? I thought there would be something to cover it.
I am amazed that there are still some of those frames floating around. Congrats.:thumbsup: on getting possibly the last one. By the looks of your build you wll be right at 25- 25 and a half lbs. And yes the bottom bracket area is open and there is nothing that covers it. One question for ya, what mm fork are you running? the reason I ask is that the Team frame was designed to run a 63mm fork. Some people upgraded to 80mm forks and complained of the bike handeling different. Because of the longer top tube and longer chainstays and shorter rear travel the 63mm is concidered ideal for that frame.

"the Team frame was designed to run a 63mm fork. Some people upgraded to 80mm forks and complained of the bike handeling different. Because of the longer top tube and longer chainstays and shorter rear travel the 63mm is concidered ideal for that frame."

Very interesting about the forks. I picked the Reba because it adjusts between 85 and 100. I thought the frame would have been designed for an 80 and I didn't think that 80 or 85 would matter.

What forks has everyone else been using? And, what length?

"the Team frame was designed to run a 63mm fork. Some people upgraded to 80mm forks and complained of the bike handeling different. Because of the longer top tube and longer chainstays and shorter rear travel the 63mm is concidered ideal for that frame."

Very interesting about the forks. I picked the Reba because it adjusts between 85 and 100. I thought the frame would have been designed for an 80 and I didn't think that 80 or 85 would matter.

What forks has everyone else been using? And, what length?
That frame came speced with a Rock Shox SID Race 63mm. This fork was ideal not only because of the short travel but it is also a "very" light fork.

I ran a 80mm skareb at first and while I thought it rode great it also had some flex. I switched to a R7 super 100mm and absolutely hated the handling changes. I ended up giving the fork away since it was cut to the GT's HT and would not fit my other bikes.

I picked up some crossmax SL's, put the skareb back on and once again loved the ride. The problem I had was the previous crossland rims. While the skareb flexed it was nothing like those wheels. The rear lower chainstay has deep grooves cut in from the tires rubbing on hard corners. I've thought about buying a small just to swap the swing arm.

-Doug

Right on, an original I-drive thread!
Just build it up with as light of parts as you can afford to, and a nice light 80-100mm fork.

I had a blue and white 2000 or 2001 I-drive 2.0 I think it was. One of the best riding and pedaling bikes I ever owned. These were good bikes!

OK, 80mm it is. Reba is out, maybe Sid is in. I've got to look around. I'll start building the bicycle this weekend and post some pics as it progresses.

Right on, an original I-drive thread!
Just build it up with as light of parts as you can afford to, and a nice light 80-100mm fork.

I had a blue and white 2000 or 2001 I-drive 2.0 I think it was. One of the best riding and pedaling bikes I ever owned. These were good bikes!
A 2001' GT XCR 2.0 is a completely different frame design than the Team model. The 2.0 was designed to run a 80mm fork or a 100mm. The Team was designed around a 63mm fork hence the longer toptube longer chainstays and shorter rear travel. Than any previous 4.6" travel I-Drives. Like I said earlier some people removed the 63mm SID race fork and ran 80mm forks. Only to realise it was a mistake, as the Team handled much better with a 63mm fork. This frame was GT's attempt at an all out XC race bike and with a 63mm SID race fork it was a formatable lightweight weapon.

Any idea where to find a 63mm Sid fork now?

Any idea where to find a 63mm Sid fork now?
Sorry I don't. But if I were you I would try every avenue to get a hold of one.Check the classifieds on this site and any other MTB site that you know of. You have a real gem of a frame and I would like to see you bring it to it's fullest potential.

The '07 Sid Race ships set at 80 but can be internally converted to 63. I'd guess some/most of the other models and recent years are similar. I know the world cup version is the same.

The difference is the WC will set you back 1 grand and the Race can be picked up for 490.00 or lower, especially used.

What about the Sid Team? From what I read on the Product Reviews the Team looks more reliable. The Race looks like a one season fork. I'd hate to have to get a new one every year.

I found that the team does reduce to 63 mm. I'm now looking for a good deal on on. Can anyone help me find a good deal on a Rockshox Sid Team?

My crank, BB, chain, and derailers arived today. They will go on saturday

I found that the team does reduce to 63 mm. I'm now looking for a good deal on on. Can anyone help me find a good deal on a Rockshox Sid Team?

My crank, BB, chain, and derailers arived today. They will go on saturday
Cool! I will keep my eyes open for ya.:thumbsup: My sister runs one on her Titanium Lightspeed race bike. But she will not part with it.

I'm going to start the build tomorrow. Do you have any idea at what psi to set the rear Manitou Qr shock for a 180 pound rider?

I started on it today. Installed BB, crank, RD, FD, chain, seat,seatpost, rear wheel and cassett. That's all I have so far. Pedals, computer and shifters are on order from Nashbar and I have a list of things to order from PricePoint. Big news is that I bought my fork; a RockShox Sid Team from Bob's Bicycles (Betterbikes on Ebay) and got an excellent price. It's a new bike take off with an 8.5 inch steerer (should be fine) and it comes with the paperwork, remote and the travel reducer. So things are looking good

Sweeney: How is the build coming along, any updated pics yet ?

I have my fork, RS Sid Team from Bob's Bikes. Very good deal from him. I'll probably install it later today and have some pics up tomorrow.

Made some more progress today. I installed my RS Sid Team fork, Cane Creek Headset, Speedplay pedals, Mavic Crossmax XL wheels and a IRC Mibro front Tire. I'm going to start out with the IRC Mibro's. I put them on my Zaskar and what an improvement they are from the Tioga's that came with it.

Still have to order Avid Single Digit Sl brakes, RaceFace riser bar, ODI grips, cables and IRC Mibro tires in 2.1. That's is and it will be ready!

I hope it works this time

Looking really nice. I bet you can't wait to have it finished.

How are the 2.1 tires fitting ? My lower stays look like someone took a hack saw to 'em after running 2.1's.

looking good! more pics of the finished build pls!

"How are the 2.1 tires fitting ?"

I don't know. That's an old Tioga with no air on the back that I just put there for the picture.
the Mibro 2.1 is a pretty small tire, 1.9 inches according to Shiggy's sight, so I don't think I'll have a problem. What tires do you use? And what size? The front is a 2.25 Mibro which I think I'll replace with a 2.1 to save some weight. I don't know much about this. I have been a road triathlete for fourteen years and tire selection is easy. You get the best tubulars you can for racing and the most durable clinchers for training. But mt bike tire selection seems like science (or art). So this winter I got my first mt bike, a GT Zaskar for Performance and I have had a ball with it and naturally want to race Exterra. I remember the glory days of GT, the 96 Olympics, the great mt bike team of the 90's, the Edge tri bike, so when I saw this frame I just had to have one. And it looks like this might be the last one. There are just 2 smalls left in the wearhouse. I hope I can do it justice. I'll be riding my Zaskar in a mt bike duathlon on the 28th and then this one should be ready for my first Exterra triathlon in May. Like I said, I hope I can do it justice. It will be strictly a race bike.

If the Mibro's are 1.9 you should not have a problem. I think my original problem was related more to wheel flex from running mavic crosslands when I first built mine up. I swapped the rims and brakes to mavic crossmax sl's and noticed a huge improvement in handling and the flex stopped. I was running kenda nevegal UST 2.1's. Living in Northern California they fit most of the trails I ride even if they roll slower. There is a pic of my first build on this thread from last year. Regardless I'll be switching to either a kenda small block eight or karma for the rear this time before I do any more damage to the rear stays.

My GT was my first FS bike in 20+ years of riding mtb's. It was also after a five year absence from biking. I loved the bike but honestly the riding position took a bit out of me. It climbed great, cornered great but It absolutely killed me after 60 minutes. Mainly because the bike just inspires you to ride harder and faster and the twitchy handling makes you pay a hell of lot more attention. I found out the position on my hardtail let me go a lot longer with more comfort. After a six months I ended up pulling most of the parts to build a single speed. Basically at that time I could not give the bike justice =(.

Riding the SS payed off and after 3 months I've lost about 25 pounds and feel I have my legs and lungs back. I've also been riding a c-dale prophet and on my last ride we hit a few 1000 foot elevation climbs with almost 4k total climbing, I never used the granny once. That ride plus seeing your post on how stoked you are with your new purchase basically started my GT itch again.

Over the last two days I've been pulling parts off my prophet and building the GT back up. I have no doubts I'll be able to deliver it justice now.

All I have left at this point is to bolt on the rear derailer, throw on the chain and tune it up. I'll post a updated pic later but so far I've added the following since the old build.

Rims 717's
Hubs Magura Pro
Tires Non-UST Nevegals (changing the rear soon)
XT crankset
XT rear derailer
XT rear cassette
Swapped the 8-speed XT shifters to 9-speed XT's
Thomson seatpost (I Had the race face with the setback, now trying standard)
Juicy Carbon brakes

I don't plan on trail riding it too much as my area does not have friendly trails for light bikes. We do have a few weekly local races and I plan on making a go with the GT. I'll mainly be sticking to the SS as its fun as hell to ride.

If you wanted race bike handling and performance I think you're going to very happy. I own quite a few bikes and have ridden a ton over the years. These GT's are meant to fly and they do.

Glad to hear that you are back in shape and getting ready to race. Sounds like your rebuild will be some what lighter also. Let us see a new picture when it is ready.

All finished. My home scale is usually within a few ounces of the digital at the LBS. Looks like its coming in about 26.1. That will go down once I swap the seat and rear tire. Even with the LX cranks I swapped for the XT's I had it down to 25.3 with xtr v's and the sl rims. I'm waiting for a few rides before deciding if I'll resize the front brake line or go back to v's.

Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice!

No it's time to get used to the position and go thrash it on the race course.

Very Niiiiiiiiiice!!!! So are you going to be running that fork in the 63mm setting like we discussed earlier?

Right now mine is at 80mm. The change is something that the bike shop will have to do for me. I'm going to complete the bike and see what I think after I ride it. The good news is that I just got the last of my parts from Price Point; cables, brakes, bar, grips and tires. I'll probabley finish the build on saturday. My first Mt bike duathlon is sunday. Dare I ride an untested new bike in a race? I don't think so. I'll take my Zaskar and wait til next month's Exterra Tri for the new bike

A little more progress here and some interesting pics. I weighed up what I have assembled and weighed my remaining parts. So without trimming anything, I comes out to 25.4 lbs. Trim the bar, seatpost and cables and maybe I can get it to 25.2. Not bad for a Dual Suspension XC bike. Ditch the tubes and go with Stan's and I'm under 25 lbs.

Some people have posted about the geometry, so I lined it up with my '96 Zaskar now that it looks like a bicycle and it seams to line up almost exactly. Check out the pictures. I think I'm going to love this bike!

You are gonna love it but just remember to flow like a butterfly. You gotta be nice to this puppy. I'm a 205 lb. I-d Team rider and she is still with me. I just don't jump it as much as my last I-D 1.0 and I visually inspect it for cracks after a long hard ride. This bike is awesome. mine weighs lightly above 26 lbs. and every time I go to my garage and stare at it, I get a big smile. Never got that from my other bikes.

Here is an up dated photo of my Team I-drive. Weight is 23.64lbs even with the Fox F100 fork. Stans is the way to go. This bike is a screamer but I'm thinking about putting her up for sale. I'm. I converted my "05" Zaskar into a single speed and I'm riding it way more than the I-Drive. I hate seeing it hanging on the wall.

It's so close. The only thing I need are the sleeves for the exposed dérailleur cables. I'll pick them up monday. Right now it weighs 25.4 lbs. I'm going to change the front tire from a 2.25 to a 2.1 Mibro ( I have it) and I've ordered a Easton EC70 carbon fiber seatpost and a SLR saddle. That should get me under my 25 lb goal.

Wow!! ..... sweet bike. :thumbsup: When I started this thread in 2004, it was nice to see that the original I-drive technology was still being built in the USA at Kinesis/MC in Oregon. I owned a 2000 I-drive XCR-2000 and then the 2001 I-drive 1.0 with the silver frame and gold RS Psylo fork with 115 mm travel. The latter bike ?had the 6061 aluminum, and the typical break at the seat post mast/rs junction, so I swapped ALL my parts over to a 2004 SC Blur frame.

I still feel the orginal I-drive technology rides much like the VPP technology from SC and Intense. I haven't ridden the newer I-drives, so I don't know much about the ride quality, or whether there's much improvement. MBAction rag in 2001 or 2002 had a write-up on the Team with the RS Sid, and the new design was the result of what the pro racing team wanted in a full XC race bike. Even then the light-weight builds were running $4000 up.

So at 175 lb. and 32" inseam, I guess the Small frames left are "too small" and would have too high a seat post position to get the 0.883 x inseam measurement for BB to seat top. The 22.3" effective TT length would be o.k. for me, however. I guess I'll keep looking for a Medium to be returned to Greenfish!!

Nice to see some people still building up this "classic" frame for racing and/or XC riding. Hopefully the frames will hold up....fwiw, I reversed the rear shock on the 2000 bike so the piston was attached to the rear triangle to shed mud....the seat post attachment never ovalized like the 2001 bike, but the earlier bike had the 7000 aluminum frame.

Now if we could just see Julie Furtado or Alison Dunlap riding one of these again...:cool: (sorry, guys!)

Took it or a short trial run today, and it is sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!

came it at 24.64 lbs

One more left to be built; the XL by Jesseruns. Come on Jesse. Finish it up!

Wow!! ..... sweet bike. :thumbsup: When I started this thread in 2004, it was nice to see that the original I-drive technology was still being built in the USA at Kinesis/MC in Oregon. I owned a 2000 I-drive XCR-2000 and then the 2001 I-drive 1.0 with the silver frame and gold RS Psylo fork with 115 mm travel. The latter bike ?had the 6061 aluminum, and the typical break at the seat post mast/rs junction, so I swapped ALL my parts over to a 2004 SC Blur frame.

I still feel the orginal I-drive technology rides much like the VPP technology from SC and Intense. I haven't ridden the newer I-drives, so I don't know much about the ride quality, or whether there's much improvement. MBAction rag in 2001 or 2002 had a write-up on the Team with the RS Sid, and the new design was the result of what the pro racing team wanted in a full XC race bike. Even then the light-weight builds were running $4000 up.

So at 175 lb. and 32" inseam, I guess the Small frames left are "too small" and would have too high a seat post position to get the 0.883 x inseam measurement for BB to seat top. The 22.3" effective TT length would be o.k. for me, however. I guess I'll keep looking for a Medium to be returned to Greenfish!!

Nice to see some people still building up this "classic" frame for racing and/or XC riding. Hopefully the frames will hold up....fwiw, I reversed the rear shock on the 2000 bike so the piston was attached to the rear triangle to shed mud....the seat post attachment never ovalized like the 2001 bike, but the earlier bike had the 7000 aluminum frame.

Now if we could just see Julie Furtado or Alison Dunlap riding one of these again...:cool: (sorry, guys!)
I agree the old I-Drive technology was a top notch design. That climbed as well as descended flawlessly. I havent had the opportunity to test the new I- Drive design but I can not imagine it out performing the old design. I ended up giving into going with a new brand. After three cracked I-Drive XCR-LE Easton 6061 aluminum frames. If the "old" GT was still in bussiness and the old I-Drive design still in production. And if they fixed the flawed part of the seat post tower that cracked. I would still be on one today.

I am convinced that someday my frame will crack just like the others. The guys at Greenfish say that it is a XC race frame and if it is used for that it will survive a long time but that GT will only warrentee it for one season. So I'm going to only use it for races, and use my Zaskar for training and playing. I'll be racing Exterra Triathlon to be exact. That's about five races a year, hopefully with Tahoe and Mauii at the end of the year. One hundred to one twenty five miles a year. It should last for quite a while, and when it goes, it goes. Less that twenty-five lbs, full suspension, and race geometry for under 1900 dollars. For as long as it lasts, it will be a great ride!

Sweeney - Your final build looks fantastic ! The final weight is very impressive.

I also agree with your thoughts and expectations on the bike. Mine will see limited use compared to my single speeds but the bike also is a targeted for a specific use.

Last night I took it out for the first ride after everything was adjusted. Man, it's a rocket! Right off the start, it feels like a part of me. Accelerates great, easy to carve through the turns, climbs like a goat and downhills like it's on rails. My position is just the same as on my Zaskar so I immediately felt at home, but it's 2 pounds lighter and so much smoother. I'm in heaven.

One thing I do have to change is the front tire. The Mibro 2.1 is really 1.9 and it digs in and washes out in sand and gravel, so I'll try a Mibro 2.25

First Exterra Sunday. Will I race this relatively untested bicycle? You bet!

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://members.home.nl/lesoft/GT_i-Drive_Team_Arnie.jpg&imgrefurl=http://members.home.nl/arnie.suykerbuyk/billsbike/billsGT2001.htm&h=1180&w=1809&sz=90&hl=en&start=67&tbnid=rWH_QL4aSgulMM:&tbnh=98&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3DGT%2Bmountain%2Bbike%2Bteam%26start%3 D60%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D20%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%2 6sa%3DN

Copy and paste this address for a great article on the I-drive Team. Unfortunately, it ends the way we expect them all to end.

Mine is just the sweetest thing. I ride it very little, using my Zaskar for most training and play rides, but I'm getting really comfortable on the I-drive. My first Exterra ended early with a flat and a reflat ( must have pinched the tube, got to get Stan's) and now I'll be doing road tri's for a while but come August I'll be ready with my secret weapon to head for the woods again.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://members.home.nl/lesoft/GT_i-Drive_Team_Arnie.jpg&imgrefurl=http://members.home.nl/arnie.suykerbuyk/billsbike/billsGT2001.htm&h=1180&w=1809&sz=90&hl=en&start=67&tbnid=rWH_QL4aSgulMM:&tbnh=98&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3DGT%2Bmountain%2Bbike%2Bteam%26start%3 D60%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D20%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%2 6sa%3DN

Copy and paste this address for a great article on the I-drive Team. Unfortunately, it ends the way we expect them all to end.

Mine is just the sweetest thing. I ride it very little, using my Zaskar for most training and play rides, but I'm getting really comfortable on the I-drive. My first Exterra ended early with a flat and a reflat ( must have pinched the tube, got to get Stan's) and now I'll be doing road tri's for a while but come August I'll be ready with my secret weapon to head for the woods again.
Thanks for the link. It brings me back to 2000' when I had my XCR-LE.

Well. it's come to the end. I was at the Greenfish websight the other day and they have taken down the frame from the sight. So I guess that's it, no more. I'm glad I got mine while I could. I rode it today, and after two month's it's just like a part of me. I'll be riding and racing mine for a quite a while. It's really sweet
Thank's for all the good advice and encouragement while I worked on the bike. I couldn't be more pleased.

Anyone know of someone crazy enough to be getting rid of a I-drive team frame?

Anyone know of someone crazy enough to be getting rid of a I-drive team frame?

Have a look at Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Brand-New-GT-i-Drive-Full-Suspension-Bike-Frame-iDrive_W0QQitemZ280134117733QQihZ018QQcategoryZ980 83QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

That frame must be an XL. I just measured my large frame and where he has 26 inches, mine is 24 3/8, and where he has 24, mine is approximately 22.

Good luck, keep looking. I saw a large on Ebay just a little while ago. This is a great bike. Nice light weight full suspension XC racer. Get too aggressive though and it can crack!

Does anyone know what I can expect to get for an 2004 (I think) I-Drive Pro Frame? The frame is Brand New, not even a scratch, the shock is off my 2001 Team frame that cracked on the swingarm. It is an XL frame, and I want to put an add up here in the classifieds but I don't know what to ask, can someone help me out?

Well, in April I paid $399 for my large I-drive Team with the Manitou shock and built it into a screaming Exterra machine for about $1850. I think your extra large will be harder to sell but should go for somewhere around that with the Fox shock. Keep an eye on Ebay and see what they are going for. Good Luck.

Cool, thanks for the reply. Now I just have to write up an add and get it up.

Finally got my hands on one of these frames and am almost finished building it out. I have a couple questions for any of you, but these are based mostly on Sweeny's previous posts:

1) Did your frame come with the rear brake boss' on them? If not, where did you get them? I ran disk brakes right now because I can't find the boss' I need.

2) In the thread you said you were likely going to go with XT front der. Is that what you ended up with? Whatever you went with, was it top or bottom pull and can you show me a picture of how you ran the FD cable? I have a Deore FD on there now, but I'm having a hard time figuring how best to run the cable. The small hole on the bottom bracket housing could have been for a cable guide, but I don't have one on the frame I have. Does anyone know how the FD cable was run from the factory?

Thanks for the help. It really sucks to be this close and not be able to finish.

Just found one of my own answers here: http://members.home.nl/arnie.suykerbuyk/billsbike/billsGT2001.htm

It originally used a bottom pull XTR der.

Congratulations on finding you I-drive Team. It's an excellent find. I've got to say that I'm lovin' it. My frame came with the rear brake bosses, but you might be able to use the ones that come from RockShox for their forks. They look the same, might fit. And you are right it's a bottom pull derrailleur. I used a Shimano XT model no. FD-M760; works great. The cable guide came with the frame and I don't know if it is available from a GT dealer, you'll have to ask. If it's not you might be able to modify one from a road bike, but somehow I think one might have come with the derailleur, I'm not sure. There is a picture of the cable guide attached.

Thanks for the post Sweeney. I appreciate it. I'm trying the Pacific route first to get the guide, after that, I'll just use another one. They don't have them at the LBS though, so back to the internet. There's another shop I can go to that will more likely have one. Thanks again.

Congratulations on finding you I-drive Team. It's an excellent find. I've got to say that I'm lovin' it. My frame came with the rear brake bosses, but you might be able to use the ones that come from RockShox for their forks. They look the same, might fit. And you are right it's a bottom pull derrailleur. I used a Shimano XT no. FD-M760; works great. The cable guide came with the frame and I don't know if it is available from a GT dealer, you'll have to ask. If it's not you might be able to modify one from a road bike, but somehow I think one might have come with the derailleur, I'm not sure. There is a picture of the cable guide attached.
One can just wonder how many of those cable guides were thrown out with all the cracked frames. Both of my 00' XCR-LE frames that I cracked had those guides.

Since you are almost finished with the build, don't forget to post a picture.

I just managed to snag a brand new i-drive team from Ebay for about $80 (no rear shock). The catch was that it had missing parts. From looking at the picture in the ad I could tell what was missing or so I thought. From the picture it looks as if it was missing the dog bone, the seat post quick release and the bolts for the rear shock. What I didn't expect was something missing from the eccentric bb assembly. The cup were too big and it came with two sets of bearings, a pair of sealed and not. I have never seen a team frame physically so I'm just basing my observations on the photos in this thread. I have another an i-drive 5.0 and the cups and unsealed bearings that came with the team frame are the of the same size but sign of a pair of sealed ones.

From looking at the pics here, it appears that the team eccentric does not require the cup and perhaps the sealed bearings have to be tapped to go inside the bottom bracket tube. Is this the case of can someone give me some direction(s) as to how to assemble it. Also, if someone can email me a closeup of the non-drive side of the eccentric then i can perhaps tell for myself if it does have cups or not and maybe even figure out how to assemble it. I suppose in my case, you get what you pay for. Thanks in advance.

Fear not, I have some good news for you. Before I bought my frame I called GT and they told me that all the I-drive parts are available but have to be ordered though your bike shop. For the shock contact Greenfish, www.greenfishsports.com Get the phone number off the websight and call. They have them on the shelf from the frames that broke and they might have the I-drive parts that you need also. Also, read this whole thread. Somewhere in it there is a post listing a supplier who has all the parts and will ship.

Don't give up so soon, you are on your way to mountain bike nirvana. These bikes are awesome but yes a lot of them cracked. The guys at Greenfish told me that you don't have to baby the bike but that it is a XC race bike and that is what it is designed for. If you use it for that it will last along time. If you want to push it, go downhill, jumping, it won't last. I use mine mostly for Exterra Triathlon and it rocks! Right now my Zaskar is disabled and I'm riding it more than ever and I have to tell you that every loop I ride is 1 to 2 mph faster. You will find out.

I just got in from my ride and have to clean the bike. I'll post some pictures of the I-drive later.

311924

311925

I agree but I think alot of the frame failures were also due to heavy riders. I weigh 205 lbs and rode some very technical rocky trails. With some small ledge drops but no major jumping. The two frames I cracked IMO were because of my body weight. The reason being is when I rode the rocky terrain I was in a standing position. Rarely was I sitting during the technical rocky ledge drop terrain. The seat tower area [where all failures accurred] of these 6061 Easton tubing frames was just too thin to hold up to a heavy rider.

Fear not, I have some good news for you. Before I bought my frame I called GT and they told me that all the I-drive parts are available but have to be ordered though your bike shop. For the shock contact Greenfish, www.greenfishsports.com Get the phone number off the websight and call. They have them on the shelf from the frames that broke and they might have the I-drive parts that you need also. Also, read this whole thread. Somewhere in it there is a post listing a supplier who has all the parts and will ship.

I will call Greenfish instead since the supplier you're referring to doesn't carry much, if any, for the race and team version. One of the forums members offered to send me a parts list and drawings of the assembly for the team version. Thanks for the pictures.

Somewhere in it there is a post listing a supplier who has all the parts and will ship.

Don't give up so soon, you are on your way to mountain bike nirvana.

Oh I've been to GT heaven with my fully restored GT STS DH which is the composite thermoplastic model. It took me a year to build but it was well worth it. The hardest to find were the crank, chain guide and fork. They are no longer in production or the company is simply no longer in business. The horst link is another truly remarkable innovation by GT as indicated by more current versions from almost all brands of mountain bike manufacturers adapted from the STS and LTS models as was the I-drive.

But I'm really excited about the team build I'm about to do. And I'm sure with all the positive write ups about this bike, the experience will be as you said, bike nirvana. Thanks again for all your help guys. I think this should thread should be maintained for all the i-drive enthusiasts or start a yahoo group like the one we have for the LTS, STS and Zaskar models. This way we can upload photos of our bikes, post in the forum and upload technical files to help each other out with builds and repairs. Just my two cents.

Good luck with the build. Be sure to keep us posted of your progress. I think it would be a great idea to have a Yahoo group for this bike. Right now I'm going over there to see what they say about the Zaskar. I just got mine ready for the trail again. The I-drive can rest again until race season.

I called greenfish today and they said they might have the eccentric bb's from the returned cracked frames and maybe even the rear shocks. Thank you for the tip. I need all the luck I can get with all the missing parts I have.

BTW, I started a yahoo group for the i-drive team. If anyone is interested, please feel free to join, upload pictures, files, heads up on group buys or just plain share your experiences with the i-drive. Here's the link. I think it's about time she had her own forum.

http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/GTi_driveteam/

i-ride an i-drive

Hello I drive team riders...

I bought a Team frame without the internal mechanism.
If somebody owns and want to sell me a complete mechanism I'm buyer.
Or could you help to find a site where I can find those Parts ???
I wrote to GT and no reply...:madmax:
Thanks for your help

Céline

I'm in the same predicament you are but so far I have a few leads on parts. First is a GT authorized dealer. I was told to come by and bring the frame so they can determine what's missing. I'm holding off on that until I can find something else. The other one is BETD in UK. The sales manager wrote me back but warned me that because of the current dollar conversion rate, it might be more practical to look for a source in the US. Then there's greenfish sports. They used to carry the frames. I was able to get a hold of their customer service department and was promised a call back if they found any returned broken frames with good eccentric (-idrive) mechanism(s). http://www.greenfishsports.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=587

Hello I drive team riders...

I bought a Team frame without the internal mechanism.
If somebody owns and want to sell me a complete mechanism I'm buyer.
Or could you help to find a site where I can find those Parts ???
I wrote to GT and no reply...:madmax:
Thanks for your help

Céline


I have an XL I-Drive Team frame that I cracked the swingarm on. The mainframe is still good as well as the cam/bb mechanism. PM me your contact info and we can talk.

I have an XL I-Drive Team frame that I cracked the swingarm on. The mainframe is still good as well as the cam/bb mechanism. PM me your contact info and we can talk.

Let me know if she doesn't take it. I'm interested. Thanks.

Let me know if she doesn't take it. I'm interested. Thanks.


Will do.

Much oblidge sir. Meanwhile I also bought an I-Drive Pro frame on ebay as a donor. But if I can get the parts elsewhere then I end up with two frames to build up rather than one.

Hello
My frame is an empty shell and I can't find the parts inside...:madman:
Azspeedfreek...I'm waiting your reply, only you can save me !;)
Céline

If anybody needs iDrive spare parts, PM me. I know where to ask.

I just bought an used Team frame and I am in a process of mending bearings and defining the final build. :cool:

Sorry to dig up an old post, but I couldn't find the info anywhere else.

What is the eye-to-eye length of the rear shock for the Team/Pro frame - same 6.5" as the 1.0-3.0's?

TIA!

The rear shock on my Team frame is 6.5" eye-to-eye with 1.5" travel.

Cool - thanks Ted!

Have you noticed if there's enough room for another 1/4" by any chance? I've got an '03 1.0 and Ruckus, both of which have slightly oversized shocks for more travel and better geometry for modern forks. Just wondering if I'll be able to get a 6.75" to fit the Pro...

The one on my I-Drive Team is 6.0 eye to eye and 1.25 stroke. Soon, I'm gonna try a 6.5 by 1.5 Manitou 3 way that I borrowed from a friend and see how that works. I'm hoping that it doesn't mess up the geometry that bad and that the SPV valving makes a heckuvan improvement on the I-drive. I'll keep you all posted

Ok, here's the deal with the Manitou 3 way. The SPV feels awesome, but............

The fact that the shock has a longer eye to eye by a mear .5 inches and a longer stroke by an insignificant .25 inches, makes the bike feel WAY over the handlebars. I am using a RS Sid SL for the front and it's pushing 80 mm travel. I've been thinking that if I upgrade the fork to a 100mm travel (4 Inches) it will balance out the bike better. Has anyone tried this before? I've heard of a guy that put a 5.5 in. travel shock on a regular 4 in. travel I-drive with no consequences, but has anyone tried to do the same with the Team or Race or Marathon frames? What a condundrum. I did notice that the Manitou 3 way doesn't quite fit on the rear triangle of the I-drive and it caused a small insignificant bend on the back of the mounting area. No big deal but as a Team owner, it rubs me the wrong way just like when I put a scratch or ding the paint. Oh well. Has anyone tried the upgrade yet. That SPV feels pretty awesome. I may have my Fox Float PUSHED. It's just so expensive!!!! Ok, I'm done rambling.

J.V.

I've got '03 Ruckus, 1.0, and now Pro i-drive frames (don't ask), and have been 'overdriving' the frames since day one. Early in the i-drive life cycle, GT offered a 'long travel' upgrade that replaced the stock 6.5/1.5" shock w/ a 6.75/1.75" version. This upped the travel on the std 3-1 ratio frames to approx 5.25" at the rear wheel. You were still supposed to line up the dots for optimal efficiency, so in effect you'd only be gaining some extra sag (not necessarily a bad thing).

Anyway, back then forks were on the short side so running more sag to compensate for the longer shock was the way to go. However, w/ the advent of 125-140mm forks, an older i-drive frame could be tooled up for new-school duty by running a bit less sag, a bit more bump travel, and offsetting the steeper head angle w/ a longer fork. My 1st i-drive was an '00 STS, and I set it up w/ the longer travel shock and a 125mm RS Psylo. With minimal sag I still had a fairly steep head angle, which I countered w/ a Hopey steering damper (best thing since sliced bread, but that's another story). Bottom line: the bike rocked. Unfortunately, the STS technology wasn't quite ready for prime time, so it bit the dust after about a year of pounding.

When I scored the 1.0, I found a 6.75" shock that has closer to 2" of shock travel (btw, these are all coil-overs - air shocks have slightly less overall shock travel by nature), which combine for somewhere around 5.5-6" of real wheel travel. It's a Fox RC (Pushed), originally made for a Cannondale frame I think... whatever the case, that frame now runs a RS Pike up front (140mm max travel), and is perfectly balanced IMO.

For the Ruckus, I swapped the original 7.5/2" shock for a 7.785/2.25", which to my suprise was a pretty tight fit. I had to set the rear shock mount in the 'slack' setting (turned around for max slack head angle), and even then the dogbone is all the way at the stop w/ the shock bolted up. This would have steepened up the head angle big time, but it's paired up w/ a RS Lyric up front (165mm travel), which gets everything back in line. You end up w/ a slightly higher bottom bracket, but retain that 'sit in it instead of on it' i-drive feel.

The Pro frame's getting a 6.75" shock also, balanced out w/ a 120-130mm fork.

I love the feel of these early eccentric-era frames (could you guess?), and running a longer shock (within reason) breathes new life into them by allowing use of modern forks. In GTJ's case, .5" longer shock may be a bit too long, especially considering it only equated to an addn'l .25" of shock travel. But before scrapping the shock I'd definitely bolt up a 100-130mm fork and give 'er a go. Run a bit more sag at both ends than you're used to so the bike settles like a moto when you sit on it and give a few rides. 80mm forks have no business on a mtb anymore (that's the min I'd run on a road bike) - 110 is the new 80mm, you know? And if it still feels too sketchy, contact Hopey.org for a life-changing purchase. Much easier to make a quick-turning bike stable than make a stable-feeling bike turn, IMO.

Hmm... I think that's all.
Focker out.

Great info bro, Thanks alot. I'm gonna try it again with a longer fork and see how that goes. I'll start with a 100mm since I still wanna keep the Team frame as an XC racer. We'll see what happens.

GTJ

Last year when I set up my I-drive Team I used IRC Mibro's 2.25 front and 2.1 rear, weighing 570g and 520g. I noticed at my Xterra races that the fast guys had much smaller rubber, so this year I mounted up the 2.1 in the front and got a 1.95 Mibro, 420g, on the rear. Wow! It goes like a raped ape! Same grip. Same handling. Same problem in deep sand but no worse. I'm just wondering if I'll find any problems with rocks, but after just one ride I'm loving it!!

So, please tell me; what size and what model tires do you have or did you have on your I-drive Team?

I'm using Hutchinson Pythons on Crossmax XLs. They are 2.0 both front and back. They are around 600 to 700 grms. They are pretty good but not as light. Haven't had any problems yet and the shorter tread makes them pretty fast. They stick like glue and very predictable when they are getting ready to break free. I've also had Maxxix igniters at 1.95 front and back. I Liked them alot but they wear out really quick and to expensive for my blood. All of these are not the greatest in sandy or in muddy conditions which here in Oklahoma you can have both in the same trail. Hee hee, but not all the time though.

J.V.

I'm racing mine again after a year off (tried my SC Blur LT last year). Just got my Fox shock back from being Pushed, and love it. I race Sport Clydesdale about 5-7 times a year and no problems so far:thumbsup:

Cutting the weight of the tires in my previous post got me in the weight saving mood. I switched out my old faithful Terry Fly saddle for a SLR, my bar for a Sette CF flat bar, got a lighter 10 degree stem and foam grips. I'm now right there at 23.98 lbs race ready with pedals, bottle cage and computer.

This bike just plain rocks!

Cutting the weight of the tires in my previous post got me in the weight saving mood. I switched out my old faithful Terry Fly saddle for a SLR, my bar for a Sette CF flat bar, got a lighter 10 degree stem and foam grips. I'm now right there at 23.98 lbs race ready with pedals, bottle cage and computer.

This bike just plain rocks!
Very nice! So how do you like the geometry and handling with the fork set at 80mm? Compared to the recommended 63mm for that frame. Did you ever try both and compare?

Jay

I never felt the need to try it at 63. The front end is already low and I didn't want to lower it. As set up it just eats single track like a machine, climbs like a mountain goat, and descends and handles the high speed stuff perfectly. The only issue at all is that with the lower bottom bracket compared to my Zaskars I whack my pedals into more rocks. No problem, but I did knock a big chunk off of a Speedplay Frog. I still use it but it has a big hole in it.

I never felt the need to try it at 63. The front end is already low and I didn't want to lower it. As set up it just eats single track like a machine, climbs like a mountain goat, and descends and handles the high speed stuff perfectly. The only issue at all is that with the lower bottom bracket compared to my Zaskars I whack my pedals into more rocks. No problem, but I did knock a big chunk off of a Speedplay Frog. I still use it but it has a big hole in it.
Oh I was just wondering because I know those frames originally were speced out with a 63mm SID Race fork. And remember way back people talking about upgrading to an 80mm and some were disappointed with the way it handled and went back to 63mm as a result. But everyone is different and if it works as good for you as you describe I can see why you "never felt the need to try it at 63mm". It is definitely one of my all time favorite XC machines even to this day.:thumbsup:

Yea, maybe the 80mm fork slows down the handling just enough for my 58 yr old reflexes!

I took it for a 45 mile ride today. When I built it, I never thought I'd ride in on such a long ride, but even with the SLR and it rode like a dream come true!!