View Full Version : Help


xcmtb200
08-20-2004, 02:34 AM
Hi, I'm a 14 year old boy looking to get my first real mountain bike. Do you have any sugestions my budget is around $2500. I'm starting to race XC so I was thinking a Giant NRS2 or a Giant VT3. Help would be nice thanks.

bike_freak
08-20-2004, 02:53 AM
Hi, I'm a 14 year old boy looking to get my first real mountain bike. Do you have any sugestions my budget is around $2500. I'm starting to race XC so I was thinking a Giant NRS2 or a Giant VT3. Help would be nice thanks. For racing I would the NRS. But if you like to do drops, jumps and what not while your not racing, then the VT will be a better investment as it will stand up to more.
The only things holding the VT back from being a XC racer is the bob while sprinting and the weight, other then that it is awesome!
BTW, I ride a done up 2004 XTC2.

Aussie'SS'
08-20-2004, 03:38 AM
Hi, I'm a 14 year old boy looking to get my first real mountain bike. Do you have any sugestions my budget is around $2500. I'm starting to race XC so I was thinking a Giant NRS2 or a Giant VT3. Help would be nice thanks.

Man, at 14 i was still whacking-off to the underwear catalogue from K-mart.
Seriously at 14 you are still growing and dropping $2500 on a bike is a big investment. I agree with what bikefreak said, those are some pretty sweet bikes. Don't forget that most of the bike companies are releasing their 2005 stuff now and the 2004 stuff will be had for bargain prices. Another thought is a sweet hardtail, e.g. Giant xtc2, Kona Kula, Specialised, blah, blah, blah. Have you thought that you might like XC now but in a years time you might want to freeride, downhill, dirt jump or shave your balls and become a porn star? It's like looking at that girl in your year level and thinking "yeah she's cute", then seeing her a year later and thinking "what the fcuk was i thinking" (yes that is what we call an analogy!). So to sum it all up, ummmmmmm i've forgotten.

Aussie.........

xcmtb200
08-20-2004, 06:00 PM
For free riding i'm going to buy a biger fork for the bike that i have now. A Schwinn Frontier FS AL.It was a b'day present. I'm thinkind the new Fox 36 fork? Coments

bike_freak
08-20-2004, 07:49 PM
For free riding i'm going to buy a biger fork for the bike that i have now. A Schwinn Frontier FS AL.It was a b'day present. I'm thinkind the new Fox 36 fork? Coments First of All.. I'm only 15. I got my XTC2 for my 15birthday, my parents gave me about 10% into the bike and I had ot save for about a year ot get it. So it is possible for some 14 year olds to get pricey bikes. I have friends that have been given 3grand+ bikes straight from their parents just cause they wanted a bike(yes it's not fair).
Alright, sencondly, your asking for a death wish by using the swchinn for freeride. Yes you cna use it, yes it will break eventually and no, you should not put any money into it. Getting a Fox 36 would look plain stupid IMO.

Sounds to me like you should possibly get even the New 2005 NRS3(1650 bucks!), yes they are out in shops now! And then buy something like a Giant STP with the money you saved for freeriding and all:)
Just my opinion. That way if you decided racing sint' for you, then you haven't blown all your money.
If you choose XC is for you! Well then you have a NRS and can upgrade all you like(same frame as above models).
Just curious... any pics of that schwinn of yours? Just want to see what bike you were talking about:)

jonowee
08-20-2004, 08:56 PM
This is a Schwinn Frontier FS AL
http://www.schwinnbike.com/images/catalog/r_35.48.S4-FrontierFSAL-BlkRed-M.jpg
RST 191 CL, TIG Hi Ten lowers, coil spring w/ friction damping. 76mm travel.
Add Fox 36, WTF? 76mm to 110mm-150mm travel. The headtube junction will explode! ;-)
http://www.dirtworks.com.au/site/images/stories/fox_36_fork_450
You need to be one porky 14 year old to need a 36. (no offence, if applicable)

2 1/2 grand for your 1st real MTB!
$2500 can get a lot of bang for buck.
I only manage to get my has on my current ride, 2001 Avanti Ventura with a RockShox Judy XC in total for $1000.

I'm with Aussie'SS' on this one, it's not really worth 2005 stock unless it's a major mechnical upgrade. You can easily save $500 in your price range on 2004 stock because you don't need new stickers.

Let's see, reputable entry level full-susser or pimping hardtail?
So called "freeride" or XC?, what's your gear?.
Turn out at a local race, DH, 4X or XC and ask nicely for a ride. Just bring your helmet/s, shoe/s and gloves and parents for transport.
Full-sus DH/FR, burly FR hardtail, DJ hardtail, XC full-susser, XC hardtail; get a good feel for your riding style.

A few Value-Performance brands: Giant, Jamis, Kona, Specialised, Avanti, Ironhorse, etc...

Don't forget about steel, steel-is-real, don't underrate steel because it's used on most low-end bikes.
People still like making steel XC hardtails.
Jamis Dakota XC: http://www.jamisbikes.com/bikes/04_dakotaxc.html

Or maybe singlespeed...
http://www.konaworld.com/kw_index.cfm
Kona Unit, oh so sexy OX Platinium tubing. Ride singlespeeds and hell, you might love it and not go back!

MWWH
08-21-2004, 05:00 PM
Hey,

Im not a big fan of the NRS as I like fully active suspension, and my theory is if you are going to drag the extra weight around you might as well be using it all the time. But try and ride as many types as you can and decide for yourself which you like- Specialized and Kona make some nice active designs. The NRS (and Giants in general) are certainly good value for money and you should be able to pick up a 2004 model at a good price.

If you are serious about the XC racing, try and get some slick tires (the narrower the faster)and a floor pump so you can hit the road to get really fit- if you have a road bike even better but I dont beleive they are neccessary to achieve XC fitness (having owned one myself). Ride defensively when on the road and best of luck!

Trevor!
08-21-2004, 08:06 PM
I have a feeling you don't freeride per se, and thus will not require the likes of the Fox as discussed above.

The NRS is a fine bike, IMHO I don't see any attraction with the VT but nonetheless it is still a good bike. I would be partial to the NRS for a number of reasons. Whilst it is not the plushest bike, it isn't super heavy either and it also offers reasonable comfort on rough trails and depending on what sort of riding you do or intend to do it will probably be enough suspension wise.

At 14 you probably wont need/require or notice a little bit of bob between the likes of the NRS and the VT. When you get as fast as the big names then you can start worrying about bob. But for what it is worth, I do think more active designs are worth a look at. They provide great comfort and good stability and a nice plush feeling when the going gets rough, plus with the likes of stable platform shocks average or less efficient suspension designs ride great.

xcmtb200
08-21-2004, 10:18 PM
My friend recomended a Specialized StumpJumper or Enduro. Are these out of my budget, and are they worth it?

Trevor!
08-22-2004, 02:15 AM
My friend recomended a Specialized StumpJumper or Enduro. Are these out of my budget, and are they worth it?

Yes good bikes, good suspension designs too.

Consult your bike shops regarding prices.

Rainman
08-22-2004, 01:38 PM
My friend recomended a Specialized StumpJumper or Enduro. Are these out of my budget, and are they worth it?



Whatever you do...make sure that you at least ride a Gia.nt VT-2 or 3 before you decide on buying anything else.

It's my guess that you will then end up on one, just like I did after comparing everything else to it.

However, if you are going to seriously race the bike, the NRS would be the way to go.


R.

xcmtb200
08-23-2004, 01:03 AM
Can you guys please give me the specs and cost of a NRS3? Thanks

bike_freak
08-23-2004, 05:09 PM
Can you guys please give me the specs and cost of a NRS3? Thanks No specs but I can give you the run down of it...
NRS3 has a Fox rear shock with Rebound(no AVA tho).
The colour is silver with a bit of blue and black(looks nice!).
Rock Shox Judy SL u-turn forks
Hayes mechanical disk brakes.
Sram X7 drivetrain(very good)
Mavic 117 rims and Shimano 475hubs.
Easton seat post and WTB seat.
Hutchison python tires.............
etc etc etc.
All for only $1680. The NRS frame is worth over 1000 alone!
At this price you could afford the NRS, and get yourself a cheap dirt jump hardtail.

Kolo
08-24-2004, 02:15 AM
Can't help you out with specs and costs etc on your NRS, however I will just try and offer you some advice. You're really young and $2500 is a hell of a lot of money, even for me now and I'm more than twice your age. I know you want this FS and sure it will be a nice and cool bike - however, I would recommend you get a decent quality HT in the 1000 to 1500 range and put the rest of your money in the bank (or buy some clipless pedals and shoes and nice bike shorts if you don't already have them - then put the rest in the bank).

The reasons I say this are:

- A HT will make you a better rider in the long run, you learn to maneuver your bike much better, and how to handle it over rough ground.
- A HT will retain its re-sale value a bit better than an FS as there are less parts to wear out and it is less likely to be outmoded by the latest greates suspension designs a couple of years down the track.
- It will be faster than an FS. While not wanting to delve into a huge argument over FS V's HT, I think this is true for another reason than actual on course times. MWWH makes a good point that you want to also be able to ride your bike on the road. Nearly all good XC riders do most of their training on the road, and even if you primarily want to ride off road, regular long road rides (>100km) will provide endurance training which it is very difficult to get on the dirt (as you generally ride at a much higher intensity). To do such long rides you would be much better served to be on a hard tail (preferably with a lock-out fork) than an FS. If your (new) bike also has disc brakes, you can get some 700C rimmed wheels built and use proper road tyres. With this and your locked out fork you give up very little to a proper road bike and you could ride with a bunch of roadies - which is great training for XC.
- Another factor to consider is reliability and serviceability. Sure you have $2500 burning a hole in your pocket now, but what do you do when that rear shock blows, or you need pivots and bushings replaced? Firstly, you don't have these sorts of problems with an HT, and if you spend a little less on your bike you will have a little in reserve to cover such unexpected problems.
- Last but not least a question. Who is more respected; the guy on the cheap(er) HT who dusts everyone, or the poser on the high zoot FS who DNFs? Which guy do you want to be?

Sorry this has turned into quite a rant, so I'll stop now, but I hope this gives you cause to reconsider what you're really looking for in such a big new bike purchase.

All the best, and let us know what you decide on.

Sam

bike_freak
08-24-2004, 03:24 AM
Very well said!! You even motivated me to put some slicks on my bike and go for a long road ride! LOL!

Trevor!
08-24-2004, 03:35 AM
Great advice from everyone here which is good to see.

I wouldn't suggest though, for a 14 YO to go out and do 100Km on a mtb with slicks. Distances like that are not good at such a young age. Further, 100k on a mtb on road is murder. 100Km on a roadie is common but still tiring.

Kolo
08-24-2004, 10:03 AM
OK - fair enough - work up to the long rides - but I stick by saying that if you want to be fast on the dirt you should train on the road.

Sam

CulBaire
08-25-2004, 03:10 AM
Kolo Wrote: Last but not least a question. Who is more respected; the guy on the cheap(er) HT who dusts everyone, or the poser on the high zoot FS who DNFs? Which guy do you want to be?

:confused: :rolleyes: :confused: Mmm for some reason of late I seem to be the one on the high zoot HT who still DNF's :confused: :eek: :confused:

Cyco
08-25-2004, 05:27 AM
- A HT will retain its re-sale value a bit better than an FS as there are less parts to wear out and it is less likely to be outmoded by the latest greates suspension designs a couple of years down the track

That due to HTs having lost their resale before you but them ;)

p.s. Anyone want to buy my HT - only ridden three times in last 2 years due the dulie being faster/more fun :D

Kolo
08-26-2004, 01:08 AM
Kid comes in here looking for advice - what do you give him???

Sam

_______________________
Thanks for your time and you can thank me for mine, but after that's said forget it - Rodriguez

xcmtb200
08-26-2004, 01:52 AM
My parents just gave me my b'day present $500 for me! I'm Rich!! I was Thinking on getting an '04 model Stumpjumper FSR when the '05 models are out. How much can i save doing this and is it worth it

bike_freak
08-26-2004, 02:29 AM
My parents just gave me my b'day present $500 for me! I'm Rich!! I was Thinking on getting an '04 model Stumpjumper FSR when the '05 models are out. How much can i save doing this and is it worth it If they have your size, thne probably about 200-300 bucks usually.. I know not much but it all helps:)
Usuallly bikes don't change much year from year. The Giant bikes are pretty much staying the same just new paint, a couple of parts and new prices(with the excpetion of a couple of models)!

jonowee
08-26-2004, 03:37 AM
Great advice from everyone here which is good to see.

I wouldn't suggest though, for a 14 YO to go out and do 100Km on a mtb with slicks. Distances like that are not good at such a young age. Further, 100k on a mtb on road is murder. 100Km on a roadie is common but still tiring.
Good job Trevor for the warning.
A roadie can go 100km in less than half a day, a MTB with slicks cannot really compete in terms of efficiency, I guess aero-bar extension and bar ends can help. Building up 700c disc brake wheels as mentioned by Kolo is a damn costly exercise but that's depended on the parts you pick.

xcmtb200 instead try to use time as a gauge to train. Get some cheapish slicks (sub 1.5" wide), pump them up about 5psi under max. pressure and go for a ride.
2 hours: easy
3 hours: a bit more exercise
4-5 hours: need some prior long distance training to be comfortable and pack plenty of water.
6 hours and a bit more: ration water very carefully with lots to spare, long distance training essential, near my threshold of getting very tried and wore out. very rarely do it.
8 hours: this is where my body crashes, after 8 hours non-stop riding solo at a 12hour race this... so fatigued #-p... I needed a 1/2 hour rest to even spin the pedals.

Slowly increase your endurance, because threre really is no other way. No shortcuts in this one.

WOY
08-26-2004, 10:39 PM
One thing people failed to mention here is sizing. While I don’t know anything about you I can only guess. Since you are only 14yo you most likely have not finished growing yet so this bike that you are about to buy will most likely be too small in the next 2-3 years. Do yourself a favour and don’t buy a bike too big now to compensate for growth. Bonus is you will get in a new bike in the next 2-3 years.

I think it is fairer to categorize training rides by time (and intensity) not just distance and terrain. MTB on slicks may not be as efficient as a road bike but if you are only interested in training it does not matter. Granted you can travel further on a road bike for the same amount of time than on a MTB (because of the air resistance, a little bit of extra weight, the more spaced out gearing {in general}, and tires resistance) but if the riding intensity over the same amount of time is the same then the adaptation of the body is the same. This theory extends to FS VS HT also.

I think long rides are OK for younger people provide you know how to look after your body in terms of hydration, food and recovery. However one thing that you should watch out for is gearing. You should try to avoid pushing too big a gear especially in MTB’ing excessive force on those growing joints are no good. For this same reason in road racing there is an ago related gearing limitation.

So back to the bike I would say decide your bike on budget, personal preference, type of riding that you do (eg a efficient speed at a cost race bike vs a comfortable bike that you can trail ride all day on vs a bike that you go jumping with) however not necessarily in those order.

I would like to address the training on the road business too. Now please note I am no pro and not particular fast for that matter but I am interested in sport science helping younger people getting into this sport. Most serious mountain bike racers spend most of their time on a road bike on the road. The reason being it is that it is less fatiguing on the body, easier to concentrate on your pedalling and the zones that you are working on, much less expensive (When you do ~15000km plus a year on a bike it can get expensive) and the social aspect or riding on the road is fun.

The Stumpjumper is a great bike however if you are interested in racing XC it may not be the most efficiently machine (and this is coming from a guy with 4 Specialized bikes including a Stumpjumper FSR that I race on)

Oh lastly if you have not done so yet join a club and get some help on training, setting up equipment, etc.

Good luck and have fun.