Made the decision to start commuting to work and went to the LBS to buy some slicks for an old mtb HT, but wound up buying a new commuter bike.

Parking at work and home is no issue as I can store inside, but when I go to the gym I need to lock outside. About 15 years ago I got a bike (my first dream bike) stolen from the same gym Ill be riding to now. Mind you the bike was locked w/robust cable/pad lock to the bike rack right in front of the glass doors. Needless to say I dont want this to happen again.

Ideas?

A modern U lock and a cable lock working together. They each require different heavy tools that a would-be thief would need to carry to break them so long as you lock them separately to the bike. In other words, lock the bike up by taking the front wheel off and threading the lock through both tires and through the frame to an unmoveable object. Then you thread the cable lock through the frame, wheels, and the unmoveable object then walk away.

If weight is a concern then leave one or both locks at the gym, locked to something, of course.

A few rolls of electrical tape. Tape up the frame, the bars, the post, forks, etc.
Nobody wants to steal an ugly bike, especially if they can't see the brand label.




Made the decision to start commuting to work and went to the LBS to buy some slicks for an old mtb HT, but wound up buying a new commuter bike.

Parking at work and home is no issue as I can store inside, but when I go to the gym I need to lock outside. About 15 years ago I got a bike (my first dream bike) stolen from the same gym Ill be riding to now. Mind you the bike was locked w/robust cable/pad lock to the bike rack right in front of the glass doors. Needless to say I dont want this to happen again.

Ideas?

This is a good read: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

What locking strategy you pursue really depends on where you live. Some cities you can get away with a simple D-lock, others would justify 2 different types of lock. And some places I wouldn't lock a bike outside no matter what as someone would just damage it anyway.

A few rolls of electrical tape. Tape up the frame, the bars, the post, forks, etc.
Nobody wants to steal an ugly bike, especially if they can't see the brand label.

I sort of agree with this. While it is not necessary to take multiple rolls of electical tape and cover your frame (because then you are obviously hiding something), making your bike ugly is about the easiest and best thing to do. Just wrap lots pf tape around some conspicuous parts - like cables, stem, frame, spokes in such a way that suggests a feeble attempt at a repair. Cloth hockey tape is best, I think, because it has bulk and gets real dirty and real ugly real quick. This gives the bike a "cheap" look. Then, since you got a single-purpose commuter, lean it up against a sign post and run it back and forth to put big ugly scratches in the paint to further 'uglify' it. Then lock it up with a u-lockand separate cable. Also find other bikes in better condition to lock up next to.

Then nobody's gonna stealy yo ugly ass bike.

I sort of agree with this. lean it up against a sign post and run it back and forth to put big ugly scratches in the paint to further 'uglify' it.

Then nobody's gonna stealy yo ugly ass bike.

hahah, too funny.

Now I feel like a douche nozzle because I bought a not so discreet looking bike that has a "rash gaurd" on the top tube.

wayne

This is a good read: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

What locking strategy you pursue really depends on where you live. Some cities you can get away with a simple D-lock, others would justify 2 different types of lock. And some places I wouldn't lock a bike outside no matter what as someone would just damage it anyway.


This is really interesting from your reference

"Some will object that felons might cut the rear rim and tire to remove the lock. Believe me, this just doesn't happen in the real world. First, this would be a lot of work to steal a frame without a useable rear wheel, the most expensive part of a bike, after the frame. Second, cutting the rear rim is much harder than you might think. Since the rim is under substantial compression due to the tension on the spokes, it would pinch a hacksaw blade tight as soon as it cut partway through. Then there are the wire beads of the tire, also difficult to cut."

I always thought I needed to the seatpost and rear tire.

Thanks
wayne

some lock brands have bike insurance as a sort of warranty on there locks. I think kryptonite does it with some of their locks, might not keep a thief from stealing your bike but at least you'll be able to replace it.

For those looking at locks that offer a theft protection, be sure to read the policy. Most need an upto date appraisal of your bike, police report etc. Just be sure to know what you'll need to file if something is to happen.

I got a laugh at the "ugly" your bike up...too bad here in Flint MI the scrappers will grab onto anything that is metal and scrap it. Yes, the ignorant scrappers will rip off your $1000 bike to turn it in at the scrape yard for $5...lol.

You can never be too careful. I went crazy, but have peace of mind..

Side bonus is I can use them for weight lifting when I get home:D

http://www.bikerubbish.com/rubbish/march2008/lock.jpg


Beefy

http://www.bikerubbish.com/rubbish/march2008/lock2.jpg

I cant beleive how heavy those things are, where do you stow it on rides?

wane

They fit nicely into the side pockets :)

http://www.bikerubbish.com/rubbish/april2008/yo4.jpg