View Full Version : What MC to buy?


EDDIE JONES
01-17-2008, 10:08 AM
I have several bikes, among them a Specialized Enduro from 2004 that has parts that are like new and have considered buying a MC frame and swapping the parts over. I live in Alabama and ride on rooty, rocky SE singletrack. Not many drops but kinda technical. I love the looks of the MC bikes....Always have. I am a Clyde at 285 lbs before gear. What Mountain Cycle should I be looking for in order to get the best, most durable ride? I will be swapping mostly XT level components, crank, derallieurs, a Fox Float RLC and a wheelset with XT hubs and Mavic XM321 rims.....

nickgto
01-17-2008, 10:52 AM
A MC Fury would be perfect for the Fox Float 32 RLC. The Fury has 5 inches of travel and has a rather low 2.5:1 leverage ratio. It usually comes with a 7.5 eye to eye x 2.0 inches of stroke. Might I suggest a Coilover instead of an air shock for riders above 200 lbs; as I use one myself. I guesstimate you need a 650-700 lbs spring for that setup.

Hope this helps

Nick

Ericmopar
01-17-2008, 11:03 AM
I would have to say a Fury. They are very tough and can handle some pretty serious riding.
The other mountain cycle models, use a higher leverage ratio suspension that may be a problem with your weight.
The Fury's suspension ratio is only 2.5 to 1. That BTW is something to look for, even if you buy something different.
The Fury has a very rigid frame and makes a nice trail bike.
I have never owned an Enduro, but I have owned two Stumpjumper FSRs. I have a San Andreas and thought the dreaded pedal feedback, of a single pivot bike, would bother me after coming off the four bars, but I've had no complaints.
Go read the reviews on the Fury, the thing deserves a choice award.

Later, Eric.

EDDIE JONES
01-17-2008, 07:43 PM
I would have to say a Fury. They are very tough and can handle some pretty serious riding.
The other mountain cycle models, use a higher leverage ratio suspension that may be a problem with your weight.
The Fury's suspension ratio is only 2.5 to 1. That BTW is something to look for, even if you buy something different.
The Fury has a very rigid frame and makes a nice trail bike.
I have never owned an Enduro, but I have owned two Stumpjumper FSRs. I have a San Andreas and thought the dreaded pedal feedback, of a single pivot bike, would bother me after coming off the four bars, but I've had no complaints.
Go read the reviews on the Fury, the thing deserves a choice award.

Later, Eric.

Would a Marzocchi Roco work on the Fury or San Andreas? My RP3 on my Titus has been wonderful and I like air shocks. I am going to build this thing tough, damn the weight. I want it to be like a light FR bike. I know the fork isn't optimal but I can always buy a Zoke AM or a Pike

Ericmopar
01-17-2008, 08:56 PM
Would a Marzocchi Roco work on the Fury or San Andreas? My RP3 on my Titus has been wonderful and I like air shocks. I am going to build this thing tough, damn the weight. I want it to be like a light FR bike. I know the fork isn't optimal but I can always buy a Zoke AM or a Pike

Most 7.5 X 2" shocks will fit the Fury or the San Andreas. The San An Classic will also take a 6.5 X 1.5" shock for 4.5" travel.
Some piggy back shocks will foul the sub frame on the San Andreas Classic.
I agree with Nick, a coilover may be best for you, but if you can get good sag, around 30% within an airshock's max pressure range, it will work.
Forks between 140 mm and 160 mm seem to be the best on both bikes.
I don't recommend the San Ans to you though, because of the high 3 to 1 leverage ratios.
The Fury was designed to do exactly what you describe, light free ride, jumping and all mountain.
The San Andreas Classic is best for areas that are infested with obstacles, because of the high bottom bracket.

Later, Eric.

EDDIE JONES
01-17-2008, 09:01 PM
Most 7.5 X 2" shocks will fit the Fury or the San Andreas. The San An Classic will also take a 6.5 X 1.5" shock for 4.5" travel.
Some piggy back shocks will foul the sub frame on the San Andreas Classic.
Forks between 140 mm and 160 mm seem to be the best on both bikes.
I don't recommend the San Ans to you though, because of the high 3 to 1 leverage ratios.
The Fury was designed to do exactly what you describe, light free ride, jumping and all mountain.
The San Andreas Classic is best for areas that are infested with obstacles, because of the high bottom bracket.

Later, Eric.

Looks like there is a new Fury gonna be coming my way...I am probably going to need help with the build...You guys will give me build advice I hope?

Ericmopar
01-17-2008, 09:11 PM
Plenty of tech support here in the M.C. forum.
Tim knows his stuff and I think this new guy OfaNaor knows his Furys well.
Ofa rides in Israel, so he probably knows how to make a "bomb proof" bike. :p.
Check out the "Fanfare for the Fury" thread.
I made a small edit during your last post about air vs. coil shocks.

OfaNaor
01-17-2008, 11:24 PM
Only FURYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY

ALL AROUND BIKE!!!

The KING of the Hill & Valley

I do with him ALL

The only disadvantage of this bike - It's ME !!!

I'm the weakest link in the system – I can't do all that the Fury can do

So big shame

mcrumble69
01-18-2008, 03:09 PM
Another vote for the Fury.:thumbsup:
I really like mine. It works great for all types of riding.
I ride technical New England trails and I have had it set up for many riding styles. From a freeride type bike with a Marzocchi Z150FR fork and 5th coil. To a lightish trail bike with a 130mm Fox Vanilla RLC fork and Swinger 3 way air shock.
I like the bike best in between those setups with the taller fork and an air shock for most of my local trails.
Right now I am using Arrow Launch street tires on a spare wheelset and riding in the city when there is too much snow to ride the trails.
It makes a really fun street bike too.(mine is a small)

Like Tim I wish the head angle was a bit slacker for some types of riding but it works very well on tight singletrack.

I just ordered a 160mm Rock Shox Domain 318 U turn for one of my other bikes but because of the taller axle to crown height and Uturn I have a feeling It might end up on the Fury for quite awhile :D

One thing you need to know is the head tube is 5.4 inches long. So you will need a fork with a longish steerer tube.
The manual recommends a 8.2 inch Minimum Steerer Tube Length depending on what headset/stem you use.

Hope this helps...
Eric

Hulkamaniac
01-18-2008, 03:32 PM
Eddie,

I go about 250 lbs right now, ride techy east coast singletrack, and just got rid of my Fury a little more than two months ago.....didn't want to, but I ran into a guy that was in the hunt for a full suspension frame and was really wanting a Mtn Cycle. I threw out a price, not really thinking he'd bite on it, but within hours I had cash in hand.

Anyways, here's my notes on the Fury:

I originally built the Fury with a Fox RP23, which turned out to be a big mistake. The RP is so overdamped for the leverage ratio of the Fury that I could never get the bike to feel like it was using more than an inch or two of travel. If I ran an extremely low air pressure that gave me the correct sag measurements I would simply blow through the travel on any medium to large sized hits. At this time I was also running a 32 Talas R, but never really used the travel adjust and opted for the full 140mm of travel for 99% of my riding.

I went through a period where I didn't ride the bike due to the RP23, but I gave the frame a second chance when I scored a near new Romic D for super cheap on Ebay. A coil over shock transforms the Fury. Not only does the ride become more plush, but it also becomes a rock/root eater. I was riding the Fury like I ride my Shockwave!!! On most rides, people were shocked at how fast I was descending on a "trail" bike!!! I was still running the 32 talas r, but can't say that I really liked the fork and I didn't ever come to terms with it's range.

The third phase of the Fury that I built up was with a Fox Vanilla R coil over and a Manitou Travis 150 single that I bought for extremely cheap, again on Ebay. The 6" travel, near downhill fork plush Travis 150 brought this bike into light freeride realm. It did make climbing a little harder, but a lot of that was due to the 70mm stem I also added on. Weighting the front end and spinning in the granny ring always got me to the top without much problem. When the trail turned downards, especially if it was rocky and technical, I was in heaven.

Bottom line, built right (ie, coil shock and a good fork) the Fury is a super capable trail and light freeride bike. It's an extremely stiff frame, moreso than my buddies Heckler!!! Like I said, I didn't really want to get rid of the frame, but a guy bit on a price that I would have never seen again.

TWISTED
01-18-2008, 04:39 PM
Yeah, the furys seem to be holding up well with very few frame failures. There was a batch of weaker swingarms that went out, but most have been fine.

If you order a new Fury from this most recent production run with the new owners, it will have a slacker head angle, so that should be cool.

My Fury has the older FOX RP3 air shock and I've been very happy with it, but then at 170lbs, I'm a lighter than some of you guys.

Keep bugging me and I'll put the slacker style rear shock cleat and take photos with both my current shock and also a 7.875" x 2.25" DHX 5.0 coil, so we can check some angles and estimate the travel with the slack cleat.

Ehhh, might as well post my Fury, again. it's a small, with 160mm Talas, blah, blah...
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j85/Tim_Parker/fury-mine-edit.jpg

I forgot to mention that my bike has a 5-7mm (don't remember) spacer under the rear shock cleat to help slacken the HA. Still on the steep side even with the big 160mm fork,
Tim

mcrumble69
01-18-2008, 04:50 PM
Keep bugging me and I'll put the slacker style rear shock cleat and take photos with both my current shock and also a 7.875" x 2.25" DHX 5.0 coil, so we can check some angles and estimate the travel with the slack cleat.

That sounds VERY interesting!!!!!!!!
I would like to see that :thumbsup: