I'm posting here (and on DH) because I figure this is a something of an engineering question,
give me some advice if you can.

My (steel framed) headtube is somewhat ovalized, enough that the worn bottom cup fell out of the headtube when I went to change forks, not a good sign...

I took my bike to the LBS, who is cool, but seems pretty road oriented, so...

He found another headset (NOS XT threaded) and tried the bottom cup in the headset, it seemed to meet more resistance than the somewhat worn unit that had fallen out. So he pressed it in, said the expected "I can't say how long it will be good for" bit, and that was that.

The new cup has a longer sleeve than the old one (10 mm, vs 7mm), so that is something.

My question(s):

Do I run with it, see how it goes?

or:

Buy something beefy, say FSA PIG or similar?
(I see you can get a FSA PIG PRO with a 22 mm sleeve these days)

or:

Tap it out and stick it back in with some loctite 609 for luck, either with the XT cup, or an FSA/whatever will be better?

or:
Give up on it?

Hint; I'm kind of fond of the frame, hate to ditch it just yet.

Other options that spring to mind:
Try and find a bike shop that is more DH oriented.
Stick it in there with JBweld.
Get a new headtube welded on.

I don't know, can anyone steer me on the sensible path?
Thanks if you can.
Murray

btw, a foot or two of snow on the WV trails, so riding is somewhat sluggish, but the landings are soft!

I'd try the loctite although the gap may be too big. JB weld would be my second choice. Both of these in combination with a longer sleeve area on the cup. King makes a nice biggass steel model ($$). Have you tried to face the headtube to alleviate some of the ovalization or does it run way up the headtube? You cant remove too much material or the head angle'll be all mucked up but I have done this & it worked.

the longer sleeved cup is the way to go, that should take care of it. Face the shell, etc as well.
If all else fails, since you've got a steel frame you should be able to get a frame builder type shop to install a new headtube for ya... dunno what the cost would be of that though, you could email a few builders and see.

good luck,
Serge

I am not sure about this but seem to recall that there are some headsets that are built on a JIS standard. Usually overseas bikes. I think these headsets have a slightly larger OD.

Like others have said loctite is an option too.

I think swapping out a head tube on a frame is a major operation

AA

It would seem at this point you have nothing to lose in trying a repair. The retaining compounds (such as the 609) are a better choice than epoxies. If you can get a cup with a deeper insert, that would be certainly help. Clean all surfaces and apply the retaining compound. Install the fork right away and tighten down the headset, which will help hold the cup in some sort of alignment. Let is cure at least a day. Double check you headset adjustment and go ride it. If it does not come loose, that is great. If it fails, the headset will have play and you will be able to feel the low cup moving in the frame. Good luck.

Yeah, went with the loctite 509 for now, as I am heading back to NZ in a few months time, and managed to find a builder over there who can fit a new headtube for a reasonable $, so that is light at the end of the tunnel.

As far as "nothing to lose", that is about it, I'm afraid, as when I pulled the cups they seemed to be looser than before, so I guess it is on the way out. I'll be keeping a close eye on it after any major drops, that is for sure.

Maybe the 509 will work, but I doubt it somehow. Failing that I'll go with the JBweld <shudder> as the headtube will be cut off eventually anyway.

Cheers for the replies,
Riding on
Murray

this is the way to go. Welding a new head tube will probably cost more than the frame is worth. Go with this>>>>http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product.aspx?i=HS707A10

this is the way to go. Welding a new head tube will probably cost more than the frame is worth. Go with this>>>>http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product.aspx?i=HS707A10