I'm wanting to get back in shape and mountain biking is the only fun thing I know I can keep doing. I have rough terrain where I bike. The bike I have now is really heavy(cheap from Walmart), and very very uncomfortable. I need a good beginners mountain bike that is cheap. I don't mind looking for a second hand if you give me some good brands/models.

Main things that are important to me:
-Comfort; shocks would be good.
-Good gear ratio to climb up some nearly 45 degree terrain.
-Light weight so I can carry it going up some 90 deg. dips, pits, and canals.

Other questions: How come some bikes have only front shocks. What does each shock (front/back) do aside from comfort. I assume the front one is to keep the wheel on the ground to maintain control. I can't stress enough how round the terrain I go through is. It's muddy as hell when it rains (bayou mud) and there's a lot of hills. I really would like a second hand so I won't have to pay so much for a brand new one. I see some on e-bay that are really cheap (100). Remember, I don't need the newest and coolest technology that can double as a time machine. I'm a beginner and just need something reliable and good enough.

Thanks for all the help.

Ok where to begin...

First, its awesome to see you are getting into MTB'in more seriously and are looking to move up--good move coming here to ask questions. The best move you can make though is to get down to your Local Bike Shop (LBS) and ask them questions.

Do not, and I repeat, do not buy used for your first bike. Many people come into our store after buying a used 1st bike and its just a nightmare for them. They save $200 on the bike but loose days/weeks in repair time while we go through and fix everything the previous owner neglected to do. Yesterday as a matter of fact I had a bike just like that on the stand with two cracked derailleur jockey pulleys, dry pivots (NEVER been greased) and a stripped bottom bracket ring, broken rear spoke... etc.

As for ebay I would forget them too. Anything you find for $100 on ebay is going to be of Walmart quality. You won't get any support, tune ups, discounts or good repoire with a seller on ebay... all that is usually included with the purchase at a GOOD LBS.

Expect to spend around $350-700 on a good hardtail. The reason most bikes are still hardtails is easy--full suspension is expensive, and a low end full suspension bike is very ineffecient to pedal and usually a bit heavy.

Some bikes I would suggest:
Trek 3700-4300
Gary Fisher Wahoo/Tarpon/Tassajara
Kona Cindercone/Blast/Caldera
Specialized Hardrock Comp/Rockhopper

Things to look for:
9spd drivetrain (27spd)
A front shock thats not an RST

Again I cannot stress the importance of buying from your local bike shop. They will show you how to take care and maintain the bike, will be able to recommend trails and products, and usually bikes come with either a one-year or lifetime maintenance agreement depending on the shop. There will be issues and questions you have about the bike and the shop will be much more willing (and able) to help you out if you buy from them. The bike will be setup properly (and safely) when you walk out the door, something you will never get from eBay or used. The bike shop will also size you which is a huge aspect in performance, safety, and comfort.

Good luck with your purchase.

Jon
grunpunkt@comcast.net <--if you have any other questions.

I'll give a shot at adding my 2 cents worth. You asked about front vs front and back shocks (full suspension). Full suspension is nice, but it's also significantly more expensive and adds at least some weight. There are some fairly light full suspension bikes, but they're also in the $2000-5000 range.

Rear suspension does a couple of things; is makes the ride more comfortable and is helps traction by keeping the rear wheel in better contact with the ground over bumpy terrain. Front suspension takes the brunt of the hits as you're going down the trail and helps absorb some of the abuse that would otherwise get transmitted to your arms and shoulders.

I want to emphasize that the other poster is right on target about buying from a local bike shop at this stage of experience. They'll give you the support you need and help make sure you get the right bike to begin with. And you'll have to spend at least a few hundred bucks to get something that will keep you at all happy on the trail. You're far, far better off to start in the $450+ range. A couple of other bikes to consider are:

Giant Yukon, Iguana, or Rainier
Haro V-series
Jamis. I can't remember which hardtail models are in your price range off the top of my head. If a shop near you carries this line, it's worth a look.

You'll notice that everything that's been suggested so far has been a hardtail (front suspension only). If you have you heart set on a full suspension bike, the cheapest one I could endorse is the Jamis Dakar. With a little searching you should be able to find one (the plain Dakar, not the Dakar Pro, etc) in the $800-1000 range.

Good luck and have fun. Make sure that whatever you get feels right when you get on and ride.

The things I would add to the above are:

Lightweight

Strong

Cheap

Pick any two you like. Finding any suitable mountain bike product that is all three of these is like finding a four leaf clover.

I second the sentiment about RST and would add a Judy TT to that list to avoid as well.

For me, I have to wince a little to recommend a mountain bike that costs less than $500. Generally speaking, anything priced lower than that has compromises that serious trailwork would bring to light very soon after you bought it (especially with the front fork). I’m not saying it can’t be done, but if you are riding regularly, upgrade fever will set in much quicker and then it’s too late. Even the dual purpose tires that come on most bikes under $500 will cost you $50 to replace with suitable tires that may already be on the $500 to $600 bike.

My take on a typical scenario: Take two different riders (friends, if you will…) that ride the same trails a couple of times a week for two years. One bought a $350 bike and one bought a $550 bike. At the end of two years, the rider that bought the $350 bike may have replaced everything but the frame and seatpost while the rider that bought the $550 bike still has most of the original parts still being used on his bike. Who do you think has spent more money? The person that bought the $350 bike. Who has been riding the better bike for most of the last two years? The person that bought the $550 bike. If they both ride that much and plan to continue riding, they may likely be looking at a new bike in that third year and the person that bought the $550 bike will have been able to save more $$$ toward that new bike purchase. Add a third rider in there that bought an $800 to $1,000 hardtail at the same time the other two bought their bikes. He really did his homework and shopped around. The bike fits him perfectly, it has a decent mid-priced fork, LX/XT level components, a decent wheelset and he loves the color. He may keep his bike for three or four years (and even feel OK about racing it if that suits him) before he feels the need to upgrade. Or he may decide after six months he really doesn’t like mountain biking….

Spending $800 to $1,000 (or more) on a first bike is a gamble. If you did your homework and have some luck on your side, you may come out the furthest ahead. But for a first time (serious) bike purchase the $500 to $600 bike makes the best sense IMHO.

A helmet and water bottle (a shop will usually throw in a bottle and cage with a bike purchase) should be included in your budget if you don’t have one. You can add other things later. Those things would include:

mini-pump
spare tube
gloves
multi-tool
chain lube

After that you’ll know what else you need as you ride more.

And if it doesn’t fit you well, nothing else can make it become a good deal.

Good gear ratio to climb up some nearly 45 degree terrain.


Hey, welcome to the wonderful world of bikes...

It's always interesting to find out that climbing 45 degree slopes is nearly impossilbe. We have a tendancy to exagerate it's steepness.... everyone does it.

You've heard about % grade on a road, well 20% is friken steep steep in a car and hurts the fittest bike folk. Fourth-five degrees translates to 100% grade.

george

Forgive my question if it is obvious, but are RST's and Judy TT's types of bikes or are they brands. I'm guessing brands.

On another topic, can someone get more into the detail of different bikes. I was browsing around and there's just too many terms that I don't understand: types of frames, gear system, lots of talk about disc brakes of different kinds; for gosh sakes, they have fluid in them now? LOL. Types of forks, hydraulic/springs...etc.

I as a beginner am not going into buying the top of the line stuff, but I would still like to know what technology there is so I'm not totally in the dark...if it's not too much to ask.

Hey, welcome to the wonderful world of bikes...

It's always interesting to find out that climbing 45 degree slopes is nearly impossilbe. We have a tendancy to exagerate it's steepness.... everyone does it.

You've heard about % grade on a road, well 20% is friken steep steep in a car and hurts the fittest bike folk. Fourth-five degrees translates to 100% grade.

george

You're probably right, I'm sure I'm exaggerating. LOL. Forgive me, I'm new to all this. Maybe I should take a picture of the terrain...I'm not kidding. Just tell me how to post pics. Thanks in advance george.

Forgive my question if it is obvious, but are RST's and Judy TT's types of bikes or are they brands. I'm guessing brands.

On another topic, can someone get more into the detail of different bikes. I was browsing around and there's just too many terms that I don't understand: types of frames, gear system, lots of talk about disc brakes of different kinds; for gosh sakes, they have fluid in them now? LOL. Types of forks, hydraulic/springs...etc.

I as a beginner am not going into buying the top of the line stuff, but I would still like to know what technology there is so I'm not totally in the dark...if it's not too much to ask.

RST's and Judy TT's are front shocks. The RST is a brand name, and the Judy TT is a low-end Rock Shox brand fork. Gears, you will have 9 in the rear on most bikes (except low end ones which are 8spd and junkers which are 7spd) x 3 gears in the front, for a totaly of 27, 24 or 21spd bikes, respectively.

Frames, you have some basic types. The biggest categories are Hardtail and Full Suspension. Hardtails have no rear shock, and full suspension do. Disc brakes are completely non-essential, and on a $350-450 bike the discs are going to be pretty crappy, and I would personally prefer a good set of V-brakes (aka 'linear pull' rim brakes) over cheap disc brakes. For the brakes, the cheapest discs I would consider are Shimano M515's or Avid Ball Bearing Mechanicals. Many low-end bikes come with Tektro which isn't too impressive.

Hydraulic brakes are typically only found on bikes in the $1300+ bike, and just provide more stopping power over mechanical disc brakes, with some more maintenance required.

Forks you have coil sprung and air sprung. Coil sprung forks are usually more durable but heavier... typically better for heavier riders or those who don't want to do much maintenance on a fork. Air forks are lighter and arguably smoother in some instances. Personally I am 155lbs and only ride coil forks. I just like the adjustability, durability and coil feel.

Brands of bikes to look at:
Kona
Trek
Gary Fisher > Trek and Gary Fisher are owned by the same people
Specialized
Giant
Haro
Jamis
...these are pretty much the biggest players in the market and will have a good selection in any price range. Haro's are a very good value but hard to find in some markets.

Hopefully this will get you started on your quest. First place to go is your LBS... if they are decent they will take the time to make sure you understand the differences in the bikes and get you fit properly.

Forks you have coil sprung and air sprung. Coil sprung forks are usually more durable but heavier... typically better for heavier riders or those who don't want to do much maintenance on a fork. Air forks are lighter and arguably smoother in some instances. Personally I am 155lbs and only ride coil forks. I just like the adjustability, durability and coil feel.

Don't forget that a lot of the low-end forks have elastomer suspension, instead of coil or air. Much preferred to go with coil or air over elastomer, but sometimes that's what you wind up with on bikes under several hundred dollars. Several years ago most suspension forks out there were elastomer, so you can get by with them but you'll have a happier trail experience and less pogo-ing with coil or air. Coil has the rep of soaking up the small bumps a little better than air, but air forks are more adjustable and have other strengths as well.

I specifically set the limit at about $450 rather than $500 because of a couple of models out this year that fall a little under the $500 line; the Giant Yukon and the Haro V3.

A few things to add:

1) All the bike brands listed above will be of similar quality at the same price point. So, figure out how much you want to spend and then find the bike you like. Don't worry to much about comparing deraillers, cranks, handlebars, etc. between different brands at the same price, they are all competative.

2) The most important thing is to find a bike that fits and feels comfortable for you. Ride several different brands at the same price, they will all feel a little different and some you will like better than others.

3) This is a great time of the year to get deals on 2003 bikes that dealers want to get rid of. Most dealers will be marking 2003 bikes down by 20-40% which will often allow you to move up a step. (I bought my hardtail this way 4 years ago from $750 to $500).

4) A good bike dealer is worth their weight in gold. They will get the bike fitted correctly, set it up properly and offer good maintence.

5) It is very rare now, but some bike dealers will still sell trade in bikes that have been well taken care of. If they do, the bike should be backed up with some type of guarantee and service.

6) Whatever you do, don't forget that you are doing this for fun, keep it that way.

I second the sentiment about RST and would add a Judy TT to that list to avoid as well.

For me, I have to wince a little to recommend a mountain bike that costs less than $500. Generally speaking, anything priced lower than that has compromises that serious trailwork would bring to light very soon after you bought it (especially with the front fork).Hey guys, not trying to hijack geish's thread here, but I'm in a pretty similar situation - looking for my first "real" hardtail. My budget is $400-600. I found a couple $700-800 bikes around here that looked nice, but I only found one I liked in my price range... the 2004 Haro V3 for $400, which a couple of you have mentioned in this thread. It had pretty much LX everything, with a Manitou fork if I recall. The reviews of the 2003 version here at mtbr.com weren't too great (like 3.6 out of 5), but it seems like the fork that everyone complaining about is gone. So I have some questions...

1. Does this sound like a good buy even though it's less than the $500 minimum recommended by jeffj?
2. Like geish, comfort is one of my main concerns... are there any good steel frame alternatives in my price range? I heard that is more forgiving than aluminum and I'm not that concerned about weight.
3. Do you think I should save up for the $700-1000 price range, or is that more bike than I need as a beginner?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice. :)

These bikes priced under $500 could be just fine if you’re not planning on to much hard use. A smooth trail or gravel fire road won’t beat the bike up to bad. The harder you work the bike, the more you’ll need to spend. I spent $900 on a Kona Munimula hardtail back in 1998. I had nothing but problems with the low end Rockshox, shifting sucked and to make a long story short spent at least $4to500 maybe more in two years on repairs and upgrades. I rode mainly technical single track. Although, I liked the bike but it was no longer worth upgrading. I then spent $1800 on a new hardtail in 2000. I bought a Cannondale F2000 and the found out what fun on a mountain bike was. Major difference in the front fork and not near as much maintenance, and shifting with the XTR derailleur was smooth and trouble free. In the next two years I spent less money on repairs and had a lot more enjoyment on the trails. I now ride a full suspension and you don’t want know how much that was. Point is, it’s all about the ride and how much crave the thrill. The more and harder you ride, the more you’ll spend. It all could be determined on where and how you ride. Are you riding the trails in the city park or are you headed to the mountains for some serious mountain biking.

Get to a local shop that you can trust...isn't hardsell and it willing to take the time to explain the differences and set a bike up for you. Not only will you be better off to begin with but you will be starting a relationship that will help you down the rode when the inevitible problems occur.

I learned the hard way. I'm pretty internet savvy...have bought all kinds of things there. I spent a lot of time researching on the web, reading reviews, etc. Then I bought a bike that had good reviews and seemed to be my size. It was a huge improvement over the crappy Mongoose I bought from Costco, but then any decent bike would have been. It never fit me very well, and, not talking to a bike shop I didn't know exactly why. The fork was way too soft for my weight, the front fork angle too aggressive for my riding style and comfort and the seat too far forward...even set all the way back. It made me slow and uncomfortable on downhills and my knees ache uphill. With a lot more reading, and more money, I've been able to improve it tremendously but it still doesn't fit or ride as well as the NRS I saddled up at a LBS. They were great there and gave me a good deal on an NRS frame. I'm going to put a bunch of stuff I bought for the old bike on it and end up with the ride I should have bought in the first place. I could have bought an '03 NRS for $950 or a similar Cannodale Jekyl for $1200. However, the frame has the better shock I wanted and they told me to bring it by anytime during the buildup if I needed help. I've already taken them up on that and they were great.

I'm smart enough now to know what to buy off the internet and I did pick up my son's birthday bike there. However I bought my other son's bike from the LBS. I also pick up parts off the web....for example a clearance set of SRAM attack triggers and rear deraileur to upgrade the Specialized Hotrock I bought from the LBS.

Regarding buying and upgrading...Buy as much bike as you can afford now. It will cost much more to upgrade later.

All the points that have been made are very valid, and just to give my 2 cents i figgured i would pitch in a couple points I've noticed along the way. Fristly, go with the little shop that is close to where you live/ride, and where you like the help you get. Most likely if you walk into a shop and they arent asking you a million questions about what stuff you like to ride, whether you know or not, there just trying to get rid of a bike. Ride a few bikes, and see if you can find one that you really feel comfortable on. Even if they are out of your price range. From their the shop guys can most often put you on a bike that you'll be able to afford that will fit you fairly well. Dont let them give you the speal about rear suspension being the godsend of the 21st century either. I have both a hardtail (no rear suspension), and a 6 inch travel dh bike, and I would far prefer to ride my hardtail. And then you also have to consider quantity of sale. If you can find a shop that your buddies buy from, chances are they will give you more of a deal on your bike purchase, or might throw in a skid lid or something for you. But the best advice i can give you is, untill you know the in's and out's of the sport, take the advice of someone you trust. Then you can get a feel for the whole thing, and start to understand a lot more of what is going on. Have fun, the whole process becomes worth while when you get to shred. Blue Groove!!

These bikes priced under $500 could be just fine if you’re not planning on to much hard use. A smooth trail or gravel fire road won’t beat the bike up to bad. The harder you work the bike, the more you’ll need to spend.

Im sorry but thats just wrong... The $400 Haro V3 is a bike I would and could ride on ANY trail save for Northshore or bighit stuff. LX is extremely durable... arguably more so than XTR components and far cheaper to replace. You also say "the shifting sucked". Thats not an issue of components, but an issue of setup. XTR will shift smoother than LX (barely noticeable, however). Gravel fireroads? The V3 CAN handle the most technical and intense singletrack out there. I should add its always worth upgrading the bike, as you can transfer your good components to a newer, better frame.

If you look at any other bike in the $700 range you will find its spec'd the same as the Haro. So think of the Haro as a $700 for $400. We sell a fair number of them and have less problems w/ the Haros than Treks (cheap Bontrager/Suntour crap components). For $400 get it--I think we sell it for around $500 as I recall. Remember just start out upgrading what breaks... its the easiest way to eliminate weak points (every bike has them) and its cost effective.

Crikey. Busy thread. Everyone loves giving advice, don't they... all good, too.
Still, here's my 2 cents' worth.
First up, don't muck about with full suspension. It's expensive to buy & service (compared to rigid frames) and it's easy to imagine greedy dealers trying to convince you that you NEED it. You don't. You don't even need front shocks, although it's pretty hard to find a new hardtail without.
Someone has already warned against buying used; I agree, unless you find a really good used-bike dealer who will look after you warranty- and service-wise.
Gear ratios are not an issue, believe me: modern (and not so modern) bikes are so well set up with up to 27 speeds that you will give up before the bike does.
From my experience, & talking to friends, some excellent bike manufacturers to look into are Kona, Cannondale, Specialized, and GT. All are large multinationals with reputations for well-priced bikes at all price points that are shockingly well specced and versatile, compared to even two or three years ago.
you mentioned mud - it is worth keeping an eye on componentry because of this. for example, Cali fork makers Rock shox, while excellent, tend not to take into account regular mud baths (mud in California? Pur-leeeease) and as a result have a reputation for less than excellent sealing. Look for Marzocchi, a brilliant Euro manufacturer that has links with many top bike brands - such as Kona.
Finally, don't get too hung up on weight - lots of people will tell you it's important ie. the lighter the better. This is broadly true, but there are 29lb bikes for $300 that ride better, and more reliably, than 23lb bikes for $900. Quality, simplicity & durability are much more important for a beginner.
Good luck fella

[QUOTE=seely]Im sorry but thats just wrong... The $400 Haro V3 is a bike I would and could ride on ANY trail save for Northshore or bighit stuff. LX is extremely durable... arguably more so than XTR components and far cheaper to replace.QUOTE]


OK, you like this bike. In all fairness, I took the liberty to get other opinions from the review of the Haro V. Most who owned the bike less than 6 months praised the ride. Compared to similar bikes they’ve ridden, I can see why they liked them.

If someone is not sure weather they are going to stick with the sport or just ride occasionally; get the bike. My point is, when on the trail, enjoying the ride requires fewer problems. My experience with the Judy fork is that it needs constant maintenance, to resume smooth travel.

My mindset isn’t to come in to your store and get the “best cheapest” bike I can find. I want a bike that’s going give me the most advantage at a fair price.

The fact that MTBR exists is because people have noticed a difference in the products that make up Mountain bikes. Other review sites don’t even come close to the traffic this site generates. For those of us who are addicts in mountain biking, already know components do make a difference in the overall enjoyment and thrill of the ride.

Why not buy the upgrade in the first place. You don’t have to buy top of the line, just don’t buy something that will need an upgrade after 6 months to a year. Why put up with problem components if you don’t have too.

If I were going to buy a Haro, I would buy no less than the Escape 8.3 @ $1100 and enjoy the ride.

you mentioned mud - it is worth keeping an eye on componentry because of this. for example, Cali fork makers Rock shox, while excellent, tend not to take into account regular mud baths (mud in California? Pur-leeeease) and as a result have a reputation for less than excellent sealing.

I dont know where you got this idea, but its rediculous. Thats like saying because a car manufacturer designs their cars in the southern US, they won't work in the north in the snow. Rockshox designs their forks for use across the world. People win races on these year after year in all kinds of conditions... are they my favorite? Hardly. But to say that because they are from California they aren't designed for mud is retarded.

If I were going to buy a Haro, I would buy no less than the Escape 8.3 @ $1100 and enjoy the ride.
Take a look at the original post. The guy is riding a bike from WalMart. A $400-500 Haro will be a sweet luxury bike compared to what he's got right now. And for a lot of beginners, takling about spending that much is plenty daunting. If you tell someone that for all practical purposes they're wasting their money if they spend less than $800-1000-1200 or whatever you'll discourage a lot of people from ever getting started. The Haro V-series has a good overall reputation as a good entry-level bike and a good value for the money. So what if they wind up with a fork with elastomer suspension. Several years ago that's what most everyone had and got along just fine. They considered it a great improvement over the rigid forks that they'd had before.

Be careful about being a bike snob. Not everyone is lucky enough to have your budget and even people that can afford it are easily scared away if they are told they'll 'have' to spend 4-figures in order to have a good time.

Bhutata, What I said about the bikes are just my opinion. This guy is not going to be discouraged by what I said. If I’m being labeled a snob for being honest, then so be it. I enjoy this sport and feel beginners need to know the bigger picture. He will most likely take someone else’s advice and buy the cheaper bike. Your signature says it all “A man is only a man, but a good bicycle is a ride.”

By the way one’s budget is merely set one’s priorities. My bike is worth more than my car.

Bhutata, What I said about the bikes are just my opinion. This guy is not going to be discouraged by what I said. If I’m being labeled a snob for being honest, then so be it. I enjoy this sport and feel beginners need to know the bigger picture. He will most likely take someone else’s advice and buy the cheaper bike. Your signature says it all “A man is only a man, but a good bicycle is a ride.”

Fair enough. Fact is, most beginners probably _should_ get a decent but reasonably modest bike, simply for the sake of perspective later on if nothing else. The 'bigger picture' often doesn't come into focus until you have some of that perspective. That, plus it will give them a better opportunity to work on their technical skills.

By the way one’s budget is merely set one’s priorities. My bike is worth more than my car.

This is another good example of the perspective that a beginner is sure to not understand. I do, though I can't claim my bike is all that nice. That has more to do with convincing my wife of my 'need' for something like a nice Santa Cruz than anything else. :D

The point I was trying to make, Seely, is that MARZOCCHI FORKS HAVE BETTER SEALING THAN RS. As a bike mechanic (albeit one who rides one of the driest parts of the US) you should know this. I'm from the UK where mud is, for better or worse, part of daily biking life, all year round. RS, while regarded as good quality and fine if you race and have a team mechanic to strip them down regularly, are seen as a poor second to the bomb-proof, well sealed, smooth Marzocchi forks.

The point I was trying to make, Seely, is that MARZOCCHI FORKS HAVE BETTER SEALING THAN RS. As a bike mechanic (albeit one who rides one of the driest parts of the US) you should know this. I'm from the UK where mud is, for better or worse, part of daily biking life, all year round. RS, while regarded as good quality and fine if you race and have a team mechanic to strip them down regularly, are seen as a poor second to the bomb-proof, well sealed, smooth Marzocchi forks.

I honestly have to disagree, again, I'm from Michigan (muddy) and go to school here in Waco, Tx which actually sees rain about every other day this time of year. I do ride a Marzocchi myself, but of the shocks we service, we service more (hang on to your hat), Fox forks than anything else. No lie... the SL (or is it RL?... whatever it is...) come back with leaking seals about 7/10 times so far. Anyways the RS do give out but its never because of dirt and mud that we have seen. The seals aren't as good as Marz traditionally, but they DO keep stuff OUT, they just don't keep the air/oil in. The new line of RS has dramatically improved on this. Truth be told we see about as many Marz's come back with blown seals as RS's. Well no, we actually see far fewer Marz's, but we also sell about 20x more RS forks (Specialized, Trek, Bianchi, Haro and GF all use RS forks and thats what we sell).

Hey All,

I'm a newbie as well. Do not want to spend alot, around $500. I am suprised that no one seems to mention the Raleigh M80 in all these posts. Is this bike that poorly built????

It seems to have decent components and I would be able to pick up an 04 for $500 at a LBS where I live. I'm ready to go and buy the bike. Can anyone tell me why I shouldn't??

Help......................

btw, the 03' M80 disc is basically the same except for deore (front) and deore (shifters) as opposed to lx components there. The (back) are LX. The 03 M80 disc got pretty solid reviews on this site.

Thanks,

Sarge

Raleighs are under rated. Anyway, they have solid frames and are the second largest manufacturer in the world...right behind Giant. Which means that many other high end companies use Raleigh frames such as Kona and IronHorse...Trek mainly uses Giant frames. Because they build frames on such a large scale, plus other companies buy their frames...they tend to cost less then other bikes with the same componants...as with Giant.
The Raleigh M80 is a great buy for the money, nothing comes close...maybe getting a M60 perhapes...if you look around at some LBSs you might come accross on a great deal on an M600 or M800 from 02/03'. I recently purchased a new M800 which was new in a box for $700... in 03' it cost $1100. All XT componants/Koski/WTB...the only thing I upgraded was the fork.

So take a look around at you LBS...and Good luck!

Raleighs are under rated. Anyway, they have solid frames and are the second largest manufacturer in the world...right behind Giant. Which means that many other high end companies use Raleigh frames such as Kona and IronHorse...Trek mainly uses Giant frames. Because they build frames on such a large scale, plus other companies buy their frames...they tend to cost less then other bikes with the same componants...as with Giant.

You are partially correct. Raleigh does have some great spec'd bikes for riders on a budget but they are no longer manufacture their own frames nor do they manufacture any frames for Iron Horse or Kona. Iron Horse, Raleigh, and many others make frames at the same factories as one another but they are not the same frames. Giant does indeed make bikes for Trek, Iron Horse, Specialized and others but all of the companies are seperate entities.

-ska todd

After riding a couple bikes and visiting almost every bike shop in Houston, I ended up buying a Kona Blast for $625.

http://www.konaworld.com/2k4bikes/2k4_blast.cfm

I really like the feel of the Marzocchi fork, and it has all Deore/LX components (and looks cool too ;)). Thanks for all the opinions, hopefully geish ends up happy with whatever he gets too.