Can anyone help. I'm having a helluva time getting the clamp in the correct position on my Moots saddle post to my saddle. Basically, I slide the top clamp in, then position the seat. I use a *spreader* on the back to give it some room and I'm able to get bottom clamp in, past 1 seat rail but I've got no *room* to get the clamp onto the second seat rail.


Am I doing this wrong....any help peeps. Just a noob who's been fuddling with this for a hour already.....argh.

http://alan.home.pipeline.com/clamp_1.jpg
http://alan.home.pipeline.com/clamp_2.jpg
http://alan.home.pipeline.com/clamp_3.jpg
http://alan.home.pipeline.com/clamp_4.jpg
http://alan.home.pipeline.com/clamp_5.jpg

I had one of those posts before I traded it for a Litespeed AmClassic-head ti seatpost. Who came up with that Moots design, and why do chumps like us line up to buy it? Anyway, you're going about it the right way, you just have to spread it more. Don't worry, you won't break it, but you will gouge the hell out of the thing. I don't think I would even consider getting one of those posts again under any circumstances short of getting one for free to match a Moots frame, and if I got one that way I'd either sell or trade the thing without even trying to mount a saddle in it. Good luck!

Yeah I've got one of those, I don't experiment with a new seat on that post, too much work if I don't like it. Just keep spreading...and get someone to help if you can.

Holy Shiet. So the *teeth* on the front tips on my spreader are worn to smooth almost - brand new spreader just purchased for this task.

After walking away from it last evening and revisiting it this morning....here's another tip. While keeping it spread, I rammed a flat head screwdriver into the bottem left clamp. I used the handle with ALOT of FORCE pushing *to the righ* to literrally jam it's way past that 2nd rail which I was having so much trouble getting past. Once all said it done, it did take some some nudging the screwdriver out but now done.

Man, was that tough. I tried not to minimized the marring but that dang spreader would slip out at times.....The next time around, it's time for a new seatpost.

I don't have a Moots but I'll add my two cents. From the picture it looks like there are two bolts that go in to pull the clamp closed, with one half threaded and the other smooth. I would thread the bolts in from the "wrong" side and use them to push the clamp open. Block the bolts from going into the matching holes with whatever is at hand or, as the bolt comes through the threaded section spin on a nut of matching size. When then nut(s) contact the other half of the clamp you can micro-adjust the spread by turning the nut(s).

Make sense?

I don't know what a spreader is, is it a special Moots tool?

I run a long bolt into the 'wrong' thread direction, and place a dime inbetween the end of the bolt and the unthreaded clamp side. The Ti will spread open plenty wide...I have owned this post for 6 years, and after I mastered the mounting technique, I have found this to be the most reliable, light, and compliant post that i have ever used.

I run a long bolt into the 'wrong' thread direction, and place a dime inbetween the end of the bolt and the unthreaded clamp side. The Ti will spread open plenty wide...I have owned this post for 6 years, and after I mastered the mounting technique, I have found this to be the most reliable, light, and compliant post that i have ever used.

Darn, that does sound like a very good technique to spread the post clamp without damaging the thing. Why doesn't Moots tell you to do it this way instead of their "cram something into the opening and twist it as much as necessary to spread it until you can jam the lower rail clamp" directions? Oh well, I still think that both the Syncros/Thomson design and the AmClassic design is much easier to adjust the tilt of the saddle and I've been a satisfied user with each of those systems, but to have the Moots post without the damage from trying to install the saddle certainly makes your bike look nice.

I run a long bolt into the 'wrong' thread direction, and place a dime inbetween the end of the bolt and the unthreaded clamp side. The Ti will spread open plenty wide...I have owned this post for 6 years, and after I mastered the mounting technique, I have found this to be the most reliable, light, and compliant post that i have ever used.

Yep, that's what I do with my 2 Moots posts....works great! Otherwise, it can be a real nightmare to get the seat rails in the cradles.

if you screw the bolts in from above against a coin stop etc, then mount the saddle, how do you get the bolts out? surely the saddle will bein the way of an allen key? or can you rotate it enough forward to get at the bolt heads?

(just got a moots post so interested in advice before i start!)

I had a spreader, but I now use the stock bolts and two coins. Still takes a while, but it isn't impossible. Rotating the saddle to get access to the bolts is a piece of cake once both clamp halves are in place.

BTW - Ti rails on the Serfas Moots saddles and WTB saddles fit the Moots clamps considerably better than the Ti rails on my Brooks Swift. Don't remember the same problem with the Swift using an old Syncros post.

I had a spreader, but I now use the stock bolts and two coins. Still takes a while, but it isn't impossible. Rotating the saddle to get access to the bolts is a piece of cake once both clamp halves are in place.

BTW - Ti rails on the Serfas Moots saddles and WTB saddles fit the Moots clamps considerably better than the Ti rails on my Brooks Swift. Don't remember the same problem with the Swift using an old Syncros post.


I used 2 dimes and a penny to mount my Terry Fly Ti and a Kryptonite seat cable to my bike. I also used a QBP (or is it QPB) aluminum shim to fit the 27.2 to a 31.6 frame. I used Finishline Ti prep on the seatpost for use with the shim. Total installation time was around 20-25 minutes. The toughest part was getting the clamp halves in the proper position around the second seat rail.

Using the coins helps to keep the seatpost free of tool marks. :thumbsup: