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  1. #1
    Light freak
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    ~1000 lumens helmet mounted

    2x Cree / 4x Seoul






  2. #2
    Who are the brain police?
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    Wow, nice job!

    But do you find yourself reluctantly looking upwards with the batteries mounted on the helmet like that?
    The Who - Glittering Girl
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  3. #3
    fuggansonofahowa
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    Wowser....nice

    Aren't you worried about catching on fire? That's some serious lumen juice you got there.

    You'll need to give us a little build info (ie. batteries, drivers, switches, weight, etc.). I can tell it's based on the Achesalot design - and nicely done, btw.

  4. #4
    Light freak
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    Each light head and battery weighs 6.1 oz

  5. #5
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    Beam shots???

    BM
    "I've come to believe that common sense is not that common" - Matt Timmerman

  6. #6
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    Please keep an eye on unusual and sudden baldness in the shape of rectangles. Since the light units are very low on the helmet, the weight may be better handled if you used extension cords and kept the batteries in the pack. Consider that if you find your helmet to be a bit too heavy or unbalanced.

    Well, since you have only two LEDs per unit, the heat probably isn't much of a factor. I'm pretty amazed by all the DIYs going on. Keep it up.

  7. #7
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    where did you source the batteries - looking to make a light myself but finding it really hard to find affordable battery packs

  8. #8
    Light freak
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  9. #9
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    thanks very much,
    what driver are you using- fatman, maxflex or something different. Also what are the runtimes like?

  10. #10
    fuggansonofahowa
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    And switch? must be fairly low profile inside housing.....

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawseman
    And switch? must be fairly low profile inside housing.....
    The switch is probably the round black thing on top of the light.

    Tim

  12. #12
    fuggansonofahowa
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wombat
    The switch is probably the round black thing on top of the light.

    Tim
    Yes, I figured that part....just want to know the manufacturer and where it was purchased. It seems like a nice waterproof option that will work with the achesalot design..

  13. #13
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    Insane!


    In a good way!

  14. #14
    Light freak
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    Amoeba - the simplest "light" form
    Last edited by scar; 11-06-2007 at 06:28 AM.

  15. #15
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    Quite impressive indeed. Lots of light in a smart, flexible setup. Looks like its also easy to use... Im curious about the runtime on each pair of LEDs.

  16. #16
    Light freak
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    Each set of lights getting ~3 hours of runtime

  17. #17
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    Nice set up Scar! Can you tell me where you got the switches? I'm in the final stages of assembly and those look perfect.

  18. #18
    Light freak
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    Another flavor




  19. #19
    Homer
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    What driver are you using?
    Since a 7.4V Li-ion probably won't keep two LEDs in regulation throughout it's batterylife... A buck-boost driver would be appropriate in this setup.

    On the better side: they are very, very good looking! Is that black ano aluminium or did you coat/paint them yourself?

  20. #20
    Light freak
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    Switch is from Digikey

    Using regulated driver

    Type III hard anodized aluminum

  21. #21
    Spanish biker
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    scar You are a Freak!!!!!!!!!

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
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  22. #22
    Light freak
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    Quote Originally Posted by msxtr
    scar You are a Freak!!!!!!!!!

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    msxtr - That is the best compliment I have gotten in years. Thank You!!

  23. #23
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    are you running them at 1a? And how much does it weigh. I am thinking of making a 3-4 led setup for the helmet and am worried about weight on the helmet as i have never run anything on the helmet before.

  24. #24
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    just a noob question how much would you charge if I were to ask you to build one for me? That is if you're willing of course lol

  25. #25
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    Nice job! I couldn't help notice the apparently screwless design. How are you keeping the front part of the housing attached?

  26. #26
    Light freak
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    brent878 - I got the driver configured for 800ma. 1a will put off too much heat and will need some kind of finned heat sink which I do not like the look of. All that is needed to keep them cool at 800ma is a few miles an hour of air travelling across them. My light head / battery combos weigh 173 grams a piece.

    tippy208 - I am not sure if you are serious or not with the "lol". PM if you are serious, I made up some extras.

    achesalot - Thanks. I am using an alloy epoxy to seal all of the seams and it is still easily serviceable/upgradeable (I hear the R2 calling).

  27. #27
    Utility Cyclist
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    Nice rig!

    Just out of curiosity, is there some reason you chose not to mount the batteries on the sides of the helmet, where they'd be in balance? Even tho they don't weigh much, I'd think it'd be a bit of a strain on your neck (as Locoman implied earlier).

  28. #28
    Light freak
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    No signs of neck strain observed yet. Thanks for the concern.

  29. #29
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    Scar-

    I noticed your design used 3/4" square tubing rather than 1" like the achesalot design. Which optics/reflectors are you using that fit in that smaller package? You stated above that you used a regulated drive, which one? From where? Any problem fitting everything into the smaller 3/4" tubing?

  30. #30
    Light freak
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    Richrider- I am using the Fraen reflectors designed for Crees. Nothing fits inside the 3/4" tubing, everything has to be modified. There are many drive circuits out there, you just need to find the one that fits your needs.

  31. #31
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    Thanks for the help, I'm trying to run the same set up as you. I guess I am getting confused because the two LEDs will have a Vf of about 7.4v and your battery is 7.2v. So are you running a boost circuit? Everything I have seen is either boost or buck and battery voltage is either much greater or much less than Vf to make the circuit work. Am I missing something?

  32. #32
    Light freak
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    I know nothing about batteries. The battery I am using says 7.4v in the listing, but it also says it is constructed using 2x 3.6v cells (7.2v?). I do know it is 8.4v at full charge.

  33. #33
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    I think I figured it out. Are you using something like this?

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

  34. #34
    Light freak
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    Yep, something like that.

  35. #35
    Spanish biker
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar
    I know nothing about batteries. The battery I am using says 7.4v in the listing, but it also says it is constructed using 2x 3.6v cells (7.2v?). I do know it is 8.4v at full charge.
    All batteries of Li-ion gives 8,4 volts when this are recent charged.

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
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  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar
    Switch is from Digikey
    Would you mind sharing the part number at Digikey, including the waterproof cover?

    Thanks!

  37. #37
    Light freak
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    Last edited by scar; 11-12-2007 at 08:20 AM.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar
    Excellent! Thank you. I've been searching for this type of switch/boot and haven't been able to find it.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar
    brent878 - I got the driver configured for 800ma. 1a will put off too much heat and will need some kind of finned heat sink which I do not like the look of. All that is needed to keep them cool at 800ma is a few miles an hour of air travelling across them. My light head / battery combos weigh 173 grams a piece.

    tippy208 - I am not sure if you are serious or not with the "lol". PM if you are serious, I made up some extras.

    achesalot - Thanks. I am using an alloy epoxy to seal all of the seams and it is still easily serviceable/upgradeable (I hear the R2 calling).
    Which alloy epoxy are you using? I was considering JB Weld and sealing up the unit completely. If I ever had to service the light, then it would require cutting the seams to pull the unit apart.

  40. #40
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    I am confused why have the two cree lights and 4 seoul rather than just 6 of the same type?

    All up it would be nearly 600grams which is a lot but I expect the helmet feels more balanced with the weight on the back. That is what I have seen most people do with lights like Ayups etc.

  41. #41
    Light freak
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    Lumbee1 - I have tried multiple types of alloy epoxies and they all behave the same. All I do is use a large "chisel" style Xacto knife blade placed in a seam and using a hammer tap lightly and comes right apart. Try it.

    chris-crisis - I am sorry, I didn't mean to confuse you. Why 2 Cree's and 4 Seoul's? Because I can! The Cree's with the Fraen reflector is very "spotty". I am using a "custom" molded reflector with the Seoul's which is smooth and gives a more "floody" beam pattern. Spot on the inside, floods on the outside. Makes perfect sense to me.

    CUSTOM REFLECTOR
    Last edited by scar; 11-13-2007 at 05:45 AM.

  42. #42
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    with just using a velcro for the mounting do you have trouble aiming it? I am trying to figure out what the best way for me to make my housing and what the best way to mount it to the helmet. I have some 1" round tube and 1" square tubing but i think i gotta figure out how i want to do the mounting before i make the housing. I was thinking of velcro but didn't know how I could aim it easily. Have you had any trouble with yours or its pretty flexible with the aiming?

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by brent878
    with just using a velcro for the mounting do you have trouble aiming it? I am trying to figure out what the best way for me to make my housing and what the best way to mount it to the helmet. I have some 1" round tube and 1" square tubing but i think i gotta figure out how i want to do the mounting before i make the housing. I was thinking of velcro but didn't know how I could aim it easily. Have you had any trouble with yours or its pretty flexible with the aiming?
    I built a mounting bracket with a hinge, thumb screw for quick angle adjustment, and a padded base. I use a 1 inch cinch strap to tie it down to the helmet. My light just screws onto the mounting bracket. This has worked great but I always use the same angle for the light direction. I am going to build another mounting bracket that has a much lower profile and set angle.

  44. #44
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    [QUOTE=scar]Another flavor



    What'd it cost you for a double setup like this. I need it! So sweet.

  45. #45
    Light freak
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    jimbvrly - I made some extras - PM me if you are really interested.

  46. #46
    Light freak
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    brent878 - The top of the helmet is a big arc. If I need to bring the beam down, I just move the light head forward on my helmet towards the front. If I need to raise the beam, I just move the light head back on my helmet. Very easy. Square tubing will work much better with the Velcro. The round tubing will have a very small contact patch, unless you machine a small flat on the bottom.

  47. #47
    Light freak
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    Amoeba bar mounted




  48. #48
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    Can you link me to the digikey part for the switch and boot? Thanks. I need this for my semi-homebrew HID setup.

  49. #49
    Light freak
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    There are embedded links in the post above that has the pictures of both. Just click on the word "SWITCH" above the picture of the switch and the word "RUBBER BOOT" above the picture of the rubber boot.

  50. #50
    Light freak
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    Been playing around a little......




  51. #51
    Light freak
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    There does not seem to be much "homebrewing" going on lately, or at least nobody is posting. I know I have been busy! Here is one of my Amoeba's that I whipped up for a coworker. Had some bare (non-anodized) aluminum laying around so I used it up and applied a Hammerite finish to it. Looks pretty cool all fresh, but the finish probably won't last a long time. This one is using SSC P4's with custom molded reflectors.



    Now I am just waiting for some Cree R2's to come in from Cutter that I ordered 2 weeks ago. Got some housings all built up, just waiting unpatiently! Are the latest Cree releases ever going to be available from a US based source or will it always be Australia or Hong Kong?

  52. #52
    faster than walking
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    I discovered your work from over on Bikeforums. I thank you for sharing so generously your brilliant (pun intended) achievements. You sir, rock.

  53. #53
    faster than walking
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar
    Are the latest Cree releases ever going to be available from a US based source or will it always be Australia or Hong Kong?
    Sounds like a business opportunity!

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar
    There does not seem to be much "homebrewing" going on lately, or at least nobody is posting. I know I have been busy! Here is one of my Amoeba's that I whipped up for a coworker. Had some bare (non-anodized) aluminum laying around so I used it up and applied a Hammerite finish to it. Looks pretty cool all fresh, but the finish probably won't last a long time. This one is using SSC P4's with custom molded reflectors.

    Now I am just waiting for some Cree R2's to come in from Cutter that I ordered 2 weeks ago. Got some housings all built up, just waiting unpatiently! Are the latest Cree releases ever going to be available from a US based source or will it always be Australia or Hong Kong?
    I just completed a tail light and posted it. I am working on a helmet light/bar light next. I am impressed with your light housing. Nice work.

    My questions:
    Where did you find the tubing? The 3/4" looks cool, but I struggled with fitting things into my 1" housing. Any chance of posting a construction shot of the wiring guts of your light?
    The Front clear cover - How is it attached? I see you recessed the center "rib" I planned to install mine on the outside of the housing, but realize that will be prone to getting cracked or knocked off.

    Again great work.

  55. #55
    Light freak
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    mjzraz - Nice job on your rear blinkie! I have been thinking about trying to build one as I have had a lot of commuters asking for something. I am buying the anodized 3/4" tubing as leftover scraps from a friend. I have seen 3/4" raw aluminum at Lowes and Ace in my area. I have a milling machine at home so I am machining the front lens so that there is a slight "interference" fit of the lens into the body. Also using clear silicone on edges before installing for sealing. Nothing special going on in the inside, same situation that you and everyone else is dealing with, trying to get 10 pounds of stuff in a 5 pound bucket, only mine is a 3 pound bucket. Once again, great job on the rear blinkie.

  56. #56
    Light freak
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    My Cree R2's came in yesterday from Cutter! I can't wait to get a couple of these installed. Should bump up the output of an Amoeba to ~520 lumens.


  57. #57
    Singletrack Daydreamer
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    scar, thanks so much for your guidance on this thread. I found these sandwich shoppe refectors. They fit the SSCs great, but don't fit the Crees well at all. I have to sand down the front edge to reduce the outside diameter just a tad and then I use an 11/16" mill bit to round out the interior of the 3/4" tubing down about 1/4". I'm still working on heatsink and other options to seal the deal. How are you able to take down the board size without losing all your soldering surface? I have some P4s on the way without boards that I'll mount directly to a custom cut piece of 3/8" thick aluminum, but I'm curious how you're going to make the R2s work.
    Train 'til you puke. Cheat to win. Party like a rockstar. We miss you, Jan!

  58. #58
    Light freak
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    but I'm curious how you're going to make the R2s work
    I am still thinking about that one.

    By the way, you must be Chris L's adventure racing friend. I saw him on Mt Falcon one night and showed him my light, he later mentioned that he showed my flyer to his teammates and one of them (must have been you) had built something somewhat similar. I watched the live updates on the web of your race in Moab. Just saw the video of the race on TV the other day, looked like a great time.

  59. #59
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    Hmmm, you mean Chris W of Adventure Cycling? Otherwise, not sure we're one in the same. I solo'd Moab in 06, but I didn't race this year. I did the Kona 24 with Chris in 05 and 06.

    Anyway, I was using 1" box tubing in other ways until recently:

    Not very weather proof, but easy as pie to put together!


    A solid light output with three Seoul P4s at 700ma, especially when you have the comparison below.


    TrailTech 13w HID (for comparison purposes)
    Train 'til you puke. Cheat to win. Party like a rockstar. We miss you, Jan!

  60. #60
    Light freak
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    Oops, sorry about that. Chris L races for Rocky Mountain Adventure Racing team. They did a 3 day event in Moab about 2 months ago. They have been showing the race on Rocky Mountain Sports the last couple of weekends.

  61. #61
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    Understandable mistake. My name comes from riding a Rocky Mountain.

    Cheers.
    Train 'til you puke. Cheat to win. Party like a rockstar. We miss you, Jan!

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar
    There does not seem to be much "homebrewing" going on lately, or at least nobody is posting.
    I am working on some new stuff but kinda at a hault right now. Finally finished my 3rd set but they look exactly like my first 2 sets except with 2 bflex controlers instead of standard buckpucks so not very note worthy.

    But i am working on a couple of lights but now waiting on the sea turtles from DX to come with my 8 ssc p4's. So bascially can't do much with out the led's. Its going to be a helmet light and I think i am going to steel your velcro mounting system either that or zip ties. I like your velcro system as it will come off if it hits a tree branch or the ground. Zip ties aren't as forgiving. I will post when I have more done. But keep up the good work and post more as you make new stuff.

  63. #63
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    Scar, where do you get those circular plates that mount to the Cree's? My Cree's are just the bare LED without the bottom plate. Also, how does that plate isolate the cathode/anode pad from the bottom plate?

  64. #64
    Light freak
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    92SE-R - Sorry for the late response. When purchasing LED's from Cutter Electronics(AUS), you have the option of bare emitter, an emitter mounted to a round MCPCB, or an emitter mounted to a MCPCB star. Different suppliers offer diffent sizes as well. MCPCB stands for Metal Core Printed Circuit Board. There is a very thin layer of material (circuit board) sandwiching the metal core. The thin circuit board material on one size has traces that line up with the two conductive sides on the emitter to make and isolate the connections and continue outward to solder pads. On the bottom side circuit card ther are no traces which produces the isolation only.

    Now realize that I am a mechanical designer/draftsman during the day and I am just starting to dabble in electronics. So please, any electrical experts please review my description above and let me know how I did.

  65. #65
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    Just want to make sure I'm understanding the Cree XR-E group codes: for a the P4 was the Cadillac, then came the Q-series up to Q5, and now you've found the next step (R)?

    Are there any drawbacks (other than lumens) to not going with highest group available?

    On DealExtreme http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1302 there's the P4 for $4.96, or the Q5 for $9.74. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394 As far as these are concerned, is it true 'you get what you pay for'?

    thanks for the help!

    dave

  66. #66
    Singletrack Daydreamer
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    Yep, higher bins equal more light for the same energy. We've come a long way from the Luxeon LEDs of just 2-3 years ago that put out 25-30 lumens per watt. While that was revolutionary because of its efficiency over Halogens, it pales in comparison to the Cree 7090 P4 (which is not the same as the SSC or Seoul P4) which put out over 80 lumens per watt. Each generation has improved with projections for 130 lumen per watt LEDs by next summer.

    It's all a matter of cost-benefit analysis. Calculate how much light you need and then figure out if you want to go with a two or three LED configuration and how much you want to spend. Three Cree P4s will put out roughly 500-550 lumens at 1000ma. That's as much as some HIDs. With Q5s you can get roughly 500 lumens from two LEDs at 1000ma, or you could use three and run them at only 700ma and have less concern about overheating and longer LED life.
    Train 'til you puke. Cheat to win. Party like a rockstar. We miss you, Jan!

  67. #67
    Light freak
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    Here is the road map for the Cree XR-E



    The lumen ratings for each bin listed are minumums @350ma. When you start driving them at 750-1000ma is when you will really notice big performance jumps between bins. There is still a R3 and R4 coming!! Rumor is 1st quarter of 2008.

    This is why the major light manufacturers are struggling to keep up with the latest releases of LED's. They invest alot of money to secure a large quantity of what they think is the latest bin, then one quarter later a new bin is released and nobody wants the lower bin. But guess what, us "homebrewer's" can make that switch almost immediatley.

  68. #68
    Homer
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar
    Here is the road map for the Cree XR-E



    The lumen ratings for each bin listed are minumums @350ma. When you start driving them at 750-1000ma is when you will really notice big performance jumps between bins. There is still a R3 and R4 coming!! Rumor is 1st quarter of 2008.

    This is why the major light manufacturers are struggling to keep up with the latest releases of LED's. They invest alot of money to secure a large quantity of what they think is the latest bin, then one quarter later a new bin is released and nobody wants the lower bin. But guess what, us "homebrewer's" can make that switch almost immediatley.
    All the bins scale the same, so the improvement will be the same at higher currents.
    With each bin you do get a improvement, but I don't think you will see it, if the gap is wide enough between bins to double the output, you'd still only see a quarter more light (right?).

    But the runtime improvement and ability to run lower current for the same amount of light (a bit the same as runtime) is very noticable.
    Need optics for DIY bike lights?

  69. #69
    Light freak
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    I have heard people saying that the Q5's had a slighter higher Vf than previous bins. Does this have any affect on runtime?

  70. #70
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    I would think so, since total wattage is a function of amp x volts.

    Hypothetically, if Q4 puts out 100 lumens at 350ma and 3.5v (1.225w) and a Q5 puts out 107 lumens at 350ma and 3.7v (1.295w), then the Q4 would be putting out 81.6 lumens per watt while the Q5 would be putting out 82.6 lumens per watt (a negligable difference of one lumen per watt). As far as battery life, if you were driving three at 700ma, the hypothetical Q4 would use up a 14.8v, 2.0ah battery in 4.03 hours vs. the hypothetical Q5 using the same battery in 3.81 hours.

    This is all hypothetical, since I don't really know the difference in Vf between bins, but does show that Vf makes a difference. If it didn't, we wouldn't have jumped away from the Luxeon V so fast, but that 6v Vf was a battery killer at 1000ma (and it didn't help that you couldn't wire three in series without an 18v battery).
    Train 'til you puke. Cheat to win. Party like a rockstar. We miss you, Jan!

  71. #71
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    Thanks for the clarification rockymtnway. I kind of figured the runtime difference was very minor with the style of batteries we are using. It was the flashlight guys that brought it up, because their batteries have less mAh's.

  72. #72
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    I haven't gotten clarification from CREE yet, but I think that binning chart is wrong.

    R4 115-130 or 130-138
    R3 107-122 or 122-130
    R2 100-114 or 114-122
    Q5 94-107 or 107-114

  73. #73
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    Thanks for the advice Scar - that helps me out! Looking forward to this winter project

    cheers,
    dave

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar
    Thanks for the clarification rockymtnway. I kind of figured the runtime difference was very minor with the style of batteries we are using. It was the flashlight guys that brought it up, because their batteries have less mAh's.
    From what I've read, you can direct drive the Q5 with Li-Ion since the Vf is very close to the full charge voltage of the battery. That might save a couple of bucks.
    Long Live Long Rides

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homebrew
    From what I've read, you can direct drive the Q5 with Li-Ion since the Vf is very close to the full charge voltage of the battery. That might save a couple of bucks.
    Under load 3,6V is a good driving voltage.
    But I don't know if the LED will take the initial 4,2V from a fully charged Li-ion.

    Maybe 'invest' in some drivers from DX/Kai, they don't cost a thing, will be better for the LED and offcourse regulated, so no dimming over time (although with li-ion that problem isnt all that bad).
    Need optics for DIY bike lights?

  76. #76
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    Oh yah, I read through the thread again and didn't find any mention of what you used for the lens cover - the part that you interference fit into the AL housing. I assume some kind of optical-quality plastic - any hints on where to find some small pieces?

  77. #77
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    cdn-dave - Yes it is some optical grade Lexan. I picked it up at the local Ace Hardware, they said they would cut me a piece whatever size I needed. I think I got a 12" x 12" piece, but I couldn't remember what I paid for it if my life depended on it. I then cut it down into smaller sizes by scoring with a razor knife the snapping along the edge of my bench. I then do the final sizing on my mill.

  78. #78
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    Amoeba w/ Cree R2, anodized matte silver housing


  79. #79
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    I cant believe its so small. Are the lights in there 1 flood 1 spot? Whats this setup for Lumens? These the new LED's?

  80. #80
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    I cant believe its so small
    jimbvrly
    Every time I pick one up I say the same thing. This one has two of the newest R2 bin mated to two Fraen reflectors (spot). Going from the datasheets only - ~520 lumens!

  81. #81
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    Jeebus! You know how this is out in the woods? Would just this be enuff to take on single track. You ever mix a flood and a spot?

  82. #82
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    Scar,
    Slick lights!!!

    Any chance of some beam shots?

    I am keen to make something like these over the x-mass break.
    I am thinking of running 4xR2's linked in series in 2 separate housings with an umbilical in between. Not sure at this stage if I will shell out for a maxflex or run with one of the cheaper driver options. Will run higher voltage to accomadate the 4 R2's in series but should get longer run times that way???

    Cheers,
    Alex

    By the way what leads and connectors are you using to the batteries?
    Last edited by asrixon; 12-05-2007 at 08:39 PM.

  83. #83
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    First off, I would like to apologize for not responding in a timely matter to everyone. I am currently in New York on business without a consistent internet connection. Had to bring a 60 pound tool box and suitcase so I left my computer at home. I will be returning home on Saturday.

    jimbvrly - One light head is enough for single track. I just have 3 mounted on my helmet for the WOW factor.

    asrixon - I am trying to get out and get some beam shots, maybe this weekend. I am using Trail Tech connectors which have a waterproof connection. Very nice cables/connectors!

  84. #84
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    Scar,
    Great job on the light. I've been building a bunch of lights based on achesalot design for my riding buddies and myself and we have all been impressed with the light, but after seeing your design, I would like to take a stab at building a similar light for myself. I like that fact that it is such a compact size. Anyways, it sounds as if you are constantly building these lights so I was wondering if you can take a picture of the guts (inside) of your next build. I am wondering how tight of a fit everything is since the light itself is so compact. Thanks for the inspiration!

  85. #85
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    The only drawback I see is the lack of proper fitting optics. I was going to build a new bikelight and call it HIDK (HID Killer ) with 3/4" Al tubing and 4 to 5 Q5 CREE's. I just couldn't find any reflectors or optics with the same light dispersion options that the LEDIL series has in a .675" diameter (15.8mm). It does no good to have 1000+ lumens when it cannot be properly directed down the trail.

  86. #86
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    Agreed. The Fraen reflector that Scar uses only come in a spot beam. Eagerly waiting for Scar to post beam shots of the CREE light.

  87. #87
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    BigBlue - I am sure if you have been building a bunch of lights using the 1" square tubing, than you are very aware of how tight of a fit it is. Give it a try with the 3/4" square tubing and make sure to let us see what you come up with.

    Just to clarify - Yes, I am using the Fraen reflector that is specifically designed for the Cree XR-E and it is a spot beam that throws way down the trail, and there is a lot of useable side spill. But I am also using a custom molded reflector with the SSC P4 that produces a wide flood beam, but does not have anywhere near the throw of the Cree/Fraen combination. Every person has their own preferences or needs. I can certainly understand the skepticism without any beam shots as proof. I was planning to go out tonight and get some pics but it is currently snowing.

    Lumbee1 - It is really too bad that the only drawback you saw with your design vision of the HIDK was the lack of proper fitting optics. I definitely have no problems properly directing down the trail the ~1000 lumens that I have mounted on my helmet!!

  88. #88
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    Scar, When you got your batteries, did they come with trail tech female connectors or did you have to add them?

    Just getting ready to order mine this week.

  89. #89
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    Had to add them.

  90. #90
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    Cheers!

  91. #91
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    Do you have directions on how to make this light? How does it compare to making Pond Scum light in terms of easiness, tools needed?

    Thank you.

  92. #92
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    Sorry, no directions. Way too much time and detail involved. You can get a general idea of what is involved looking at Achesalot's threads stickied at the top of this forum. Got a couple extra available, if you are interested PM me.

  93. #93
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    Scar have you had any problems with the smaller lights overheating? Using the 3/4" tubing reduces the already minimal cooling area of my design using the 1" tubing, so I guess you'd have roughly 25% less surface area for heat dissipation. However, I guess if you keep riding fast enough the air moving across the light will do the job

  94. #94
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    Hey Allen,
    Problems due to overheating? Haven't had any LED failures or melting of helmets if that is what you mean. During the summer evenings when the temperature is still around 70 degrees, the light gets pretty warm during the climbs as not much air is moving across it, but cools right down during the downhills. Yes, my design using the 3/4" tubing has less overall surface area, but I am also only using 2 LED's per light head. When using 3 LED's, that center LED is only getting air moving across the one surface (top) and is being sandwiched by 2 other heat sources. With the 2 LED set-up, there is air moving across the top surface and the outside walls for each LED.

    I like to use anodized aluminum because it makes for a harder surface that does not scratch so easy. I have also read that anodized aluminum helps with thermal transfer. Look at computer heatsinks, most are anodized. If they are doing it only for corrosion protection, they could do it with chromate conversion for much cheaper. If they are doing it only for aesthetics, how many people care what their heatsink inside their computer looks like?

    So the short answer is no problems with overheating. Thanks for the concern.

    Jay

  95. #95
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    That's good to hear. I really like the anodizing. Nice job on those great looking lights!

  96. #96
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    Forum member Sasquatch purchased some lights from me and has posted some beam shots of the Amoeba along with some other lights used by members of his riding crew. Take a look.

    light shoot out test

  97. #97
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    The results look really good. I'd love to put some compact lights like this on my helmet.

  98. #98
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    striegel -
    I'd love to put some compact lights like this on my helmet.
    PM me.

  99. #99
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    Amoeba w/ SSC P4 U bin, anodized matte silver housing

    I tried to keep busy and stay out of trouble by making up a few of these over the holidays. Used SSC P4 U bin LED's mated to custom molded reflectors (smooth, non-faceted). Produces a very nice flood pattern.


  100. #100
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    Amoeba gathering




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