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  1. #1
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    We the people ... yeti SB 66c vs mojo HD vs canyon strive AL 9.0 SL vs nomad al

    Hello!

    I'm torn between these three bikes, the yeti sb 66 carbon, ibis mojo HD and the strive 9.0 SL. With yeti i'd buy full XT gear (stock Race kit), mojo HD would be SLX build and the strive 9.0 SL it would have XTR groupset. My budget is 4800.

    Strive 9.0 SL build: price 3700 (4850$)

    Rear Shock: Fox Float CTD Adjust Factory Kashima BV
    Fork: Fox 34 TALAS CTD Adjust FIT Factory Kashima
    Headset: Cane Creek Serie 40
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano XTR RD-M985 Shadow Plus 10-speed
    Front Derailleur: Shimano XTR
    Chain guide: e.thirteen TRS Dual Guide Custom
    Shifters: Shimano XTR
    Brake levers: Avid X0 Trail
    Brakes: Avid X0 Trail
    Hubs: Mavic Crossmax SX
    Cassette: Shimano Deore XT 11-36 10-speed
    Rims: Mavic Crossmax SX
    Tyres: Maxxis Minion DHF EXO 2.5 / Ardent EXO 2.4
    Cranks: Race Face SIX C
    Chainrings: 36/24
    Bottom Bracket: Race Face SixC
    Stem Race Face: Turbine
    Handlebar: Race Face TURBINE 3/4 RISER
    Grips: Ergon GA-1
    Saddle: SDG Duster Custom
    Seat post: RockShox RS Reverb Stealth
    Weight: 13,50 kg

    yeti sb 66c race kit build: price 4500 (5900$)

    Headset: Cane Creek
    Crankset: Shimano XT (24-32-42)
    Front Derailleur: Shimano XT Direct Mount
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT 10 Spd
    Shifters: Shimano XT 10 Spd Cassette: Shimano 10 Spd
    Chain: Shimano 10 spd
    Wheels: DT Swiss X1600 TBLS RDY F-15/R-12
    Tyres: Maxxis
    Brakes/Levers: Shimano XT R-160/F-180
    Handlebar: Easton Haven Carbon
    Stem: Thomson 4X
    Grips: Yeti Lock-On
    Saddle: WTB Yeti Branded
    Seatpost: Thomson Elite
    Fork: Fox 34 150 Kashima 15

    Ibis Mojo HD SLX kit build: price 4800 (6292$)

    Fork: 2013 Fox Float 34 CTD 160mm travel, Kashima Coat, 15QR thru-axle, tapered steerer, black
    Shock: 2013 Fox Float CTD Adjust Factory Series with KashimaCoat
    Wheels: Stan's Rapid rims with Speed-Tuned hubs
    Tires: Specialized Fast Trak / Purgatory 2Bliss Ready
    Brakes: Formula RX, 180mm Front Rotor, 160mm Rear Rotor
    Cranks: Shimano SLX M66010, 42/32/24
    Rear Derailleur: SLX RD-M675 Shadow Plus SGS 10 SP.
    Front Derailleur: Shimano SLX M661D
    Shift Levers: Shimano SL-M660 SLX
    Cassette: Shimano HG-81-10 11-36
    Headset: Cane Creek 40: ZS44 1 1/8" top/EC49/40 Traditional 1.5" bottom
    Handlebar: Ibis 31.8 AL-7075 T6 4 x 9 deg bend 710 mm wide 270g
    Stem: Ibis 3D Forged 31.8 Bar/28.6 Steerer 7075 (70, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 130) 120g
    Seatpost: Ibis 31.6 x 350 L, 7075 220g
    Saddle: WTB Rocket-V

    SC nomad aluminium SPX kit build: price 4750

    REAR DER. Shimano M785 GS (XT) 10 spd
    FRONT DER. Shimano M785 or M786 (XT) 10 spd
    SHIFTERS Shimano M780 (XT) 10 spd
    CRANKSET Shimano M785 26/38 (XT) 10 spd
    CASSETTE "Shimano M771, 11-36 (XT) 10 spd"
    CHAIN Shimano HG 74 10 spd
    BRAKES & LEVERS Shimano XT w/ 180mm front 160mm rear Ice Tech rotors
    BARS Easton Haven 711mm
    STEM TruVativ AKA, 60mm, 70mm or 80mm
    GRIPS Lizard Skin Peaty lock on
    HEADSET Cane Creek 40
    SEATPOST Thomson Elite
    SADDLE WTB Volt Team
    WHEELS WTB Frequency Team i23 TCS rims laced to DT 350 hubs w/ DT 14/15 spokes, alloy nipples (15mm, 20mm front hub option)
    TIRES Maxxis High Roller 2.35 Tubeless
    TUBES n/a
    EXTRAS E13 TRS+ dual guide

    Which one would you choose and why?

    What i require of my bike: it goes well uphill (efficient pedaling platform with minimal pedal bob), is light as possible, wont crack on some abuse while going downhill, can handle technical terrain that the Alps have to offer, can do all day rides on nearby trails.

  2. #2
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    I would rule out the Nomad AL immediately, just because in my experience carbon frames are significantly lighter and stiffer. I ride an HD so am biased, but I will say get the 36 and not the 34 if you do the Ibis. If you call them directly they will tell you the same thing. The SB66 felt under gunned when I rode, but I am sure that it had a lot to do with the 32 fork on it. The 34 will be a good fit on the SB66 since it was not designed around the 36.

    My recommendation would be the Mojo HD with a 36. Great climber and better descender. Yes, it is only SLX, but that is a great group for the money. In addition you can slowly upgrade the parts over time. Not nearly as likely to upgrade the frame or fork.

  3. #3
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    These guys (MTBR folks) did a shoot out: Carbon Bike Shootout from an MTBR reader | Press & Reviews | Info | Ibis Cycles US
    They recommend the HD also.

  4. #4
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    Get a Yeti SB66c, slap on a Fox Float 36 RC2 160 and forget about it
    2011 Yeti 575 - 2015 Fox Float 36 RC2 160 / Fox Float X - 30.6 lbs

  5. #5
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    The SB66c is the least ugly out of those specific bikes.

  6. #6
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    yeti SB 66c vs mojo HD vs canyon strive AL 9.0 SL vs nomad al

    It's hard to overstate the utility of a test ride. I've ridden a SB66 (aluminum; coil front & rear), carbon Nomad and Mojo HD. The Nomad was solid, the SB66 was awesome, and I really disliked the HD. All 3 are mini-link frames with similar purposes, all 3 get solid, rave reviews, but I was able to try them with no skin in the game and form my own opinion. I know it's hard to arrange demos for these kinds of bikes, but it's worth it if there's any way you can.
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  7. #7
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    I agree - do a test ride if possible.

    Each of those bikes has its own quirks, and unless you throw a leg over one, you're guessing, not that there's anything wrong with that.

    I have been on several VPP bikes from Santa Cruz [Blurs and Nomads], and have never been a huge fan. A 5 minute ride on the Ibis Mojo and it went to the top of my list for a new ride, in HD form. YMMV.

  8. #8
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    I am about 12 rides on my new SB-66c with a Lyrik RC2DH Solo Air set at 160 and I am super happy. I regularly ride a clutch of tech gnar trails here in Laguna Beach and the Yeti sails over all of it. And it goes up really well. Bike is sick. I also have a couple friends with HDs and they tear it up on them. Probably won't go wrong either of those 2 ways honestly.
    Yeti SB-66c large

  9. #9
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    The comparison was a nice read Unfortunately bike tests for these sort of brands are impossible to arrange in Slovenia. I think i'm going to go with mojo HD. How well does it take coil fork? I was thinking of putting on 55 RC3 Evo Titanium on front and keeping air shock in back for some time, till i get some money.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    I know it's hard to arrange demos for these kinds of bikes, but it's worth it if there's any way you can.
    I definitely agree with this.
    I ride an AL sb66, but I also demo'ed the HD. It might have been the tires that were on it or the fact that it didn't have a talas, but the HD got horrible grip on the terrain I was riding and also wandered all over the place, worse than other bikes in its class I had tried. It descended nicely but I preferred the 66 for climbing, and the 66 is still a beast on the downs. I ride my 66 comparatively stiff both front and rear. Rear particularly, because otherwise I blow through my midstroke. I tend to ride more rear heavy due to my riding style, but it seemed like more of a problem on the sb than with say an Enduro (which, if you're considering these other bikes, I'd recommend you consider. It's a great bike, both AL and carbon). I just point that out in case they set it up with the recommended amounts. I am currently using a 32 but plan to beef the front end up a bit. The 32 has performed fine on rocky diamond descents, but there is some flex.

  11. #11
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    yeti SB 66c vs mojo HD vs canyon strive AL 9.0 SL vs nomad al

    Agree to ride before you buy. And I would definitely throw in the spec enduro to the ring. I just came from a nomad and picked up a 13 sworks enduro and its a pretty incredible bike...I can't think of anything the nomad did better than the enduro which I didn't expect.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakc3 View Post
    The comparison was a nice read Unfortunately bike tests for these sort of brands are impossible to arrange in Slovenia. I think i'm going to go with mojo HD. How well does it take coil fork? I was thinking of putting on 55 RC3 Evo Titanium on front and keeping air shock in back for some time, till i get some money.
    Yes, it works very, very well with the coil fork.

  13. #13
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    Απ: yeti SB 66c vs mojo HD vs canyon strive AL 9.0 SL vs nomad al

    If you want the best performing fork for these bikes go for a bos Deville since you are in Europe (even though they started dealing in the states too I think). I have been using it on my nomad carbon after trying lots of 32 and 36 forks and I love it. My cycling buddies got them too for their lapiere and specialized. Pm me if you want more details on it.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    It's hard to overstate the utility of a test ride. I've ridden a SB66 (aluminum; coil front & rear), carbon Nomad and Mojo HD. The Nomad was solid, the SB66 was awesome, and I really disliked the HD. All 3 are mini-link frames with similar purposes, all 3 get solid, rave reviews, but I was able to try them with no skin in the game and form my own opinion. I know it's hard to arrange demos for these kinds of bikes, but it's worth it if there's any way you can.
    evasive -- What didn't you like about the HD?
    Obviously it's all very subjective, but it's one of the few bikes that seems to have overwhelmingly positive reviews from riders and reviewers.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    evasive -- What didn't you like about the HD?
    Obviously it's all very subjective, but it's one of the few bikes that seems to have overwhelmingly positive reviews from riders and reviewers.
    The main issue for me is that I don't like Ibis's geometry. I prefer a longer wheelbase and steeper STA, like the Enduro or Rune. Or Prime, in my case.
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  16. #16
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    Never ridden the Strive, but it would be between the Nomad and SB-66 for me. If you like charging down rough stuff, get the Nomad. No contest, it handles the rough stuff better than the others mentioned. It also does climb very well. SUPER fun bike.

    I don't really like the 'tall' feeling of the Mojo. It climbs well, but I always felt like I was perched on top of it, sort of disconnected from what the bike was doing below me. The Ibis is a good bike, but it took very deliberate action and lots of persuasion on my part to get the bike to change its course, especially when going fast. It just didn't feel very lively. Sort of a dead-feeling bike to me.

    I really do like the Yeti's low, lean feel to it. I felt much more connected with the 66 (and consequently the trail) than I did with the Ibis. I felt like I could merely think of a direction, and the bike was already responding. It's incredibly maneuverable. Most nimble feeling bike I've ever been on. The bottom bracket is very low on that bike though, so pedal strikes are something to keep in mind.

    Summary: If you ride up for the sole reason that you get to rip back down, get the Nomad. If you want a bit more even climbing/descending performance, get the Yeti.
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  17. #17
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    I would agree with charging_rhinos on his impressions, I felt the same highchair-ness which I noticed more on the climbs than anything else. The Yeti is nimble but tight switchbacks are not your friend going up due to being slack and long. I ride a large so that exacerbates things but it's the only frustration I've had with the bike.

    Never got a chance to ride a Nomad though.

  18. #18
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    Thank you all for your opinions. I have managed to arrange a test ride for mojo hd and yeti sb 66, santa cruz here only has xl model ready to test, but that is too big. Another question, is it worth ordering from grey market shops like bike-components.de or bike24.com? Their prices are phenomenal but is it worth buying since I don't think you get warranty?

  19. #19
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    I would not go grey market. You never know when you are going to need the warranty. If you are looking for good deals there are plenty from reputable companies like Competitive Cyclist etc.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    I would not go grey market. You never know when you are going to need the warranty. If you are looking for good deals there are plenty from reputable companies like Competitive Cyclist etc.
    The problem is I don't live in states. I'm from europe. Everything is expensive here in Slovenia unfortunately.

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