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  1. #1
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    wobbly wheel and brake problems

    I have a Forge Sawback 7xx that has some problems. It is about half a year old. First, the rear wheel is wobbly. It wobbles left and right and is rather annoying and interferes with balance. I checked the hand-adjusted external tightening screw, and it is tight. Any ideas?

    Also, the rear brake does not return completely to its original position after I brake, causing a bit of a "drag" on the rear wheel (it is a disk brake) after the first time I brake during a session. I can reset it by hand, but it never returns to its original position automatically. I tried WD40 to no effect. What can I do?

  2. #2
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    your wheel is probably out of true, take it to a bike shop, and they should be able to fix it for like 10-20 bucks.

    As for your brake don't just push the pistons out then set it up, pump the brake a couple times, then try to adjust your caliper side to side so it stops rubbing, this can take some time and pacience as the tolerances are very close. If your rotor is bent a little you may need to try and straighten it out.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flystagg
    your wheel is probably out of true, take it to a bike shop, and they should be able to fix it for like 10-20 bucks.
    That's not it. The wheel is actually wobbly as if it is not holding onto the frame very well. Besides, I had the bike wheels trued in a recent tune up where they even replaced a spoke. The wheel actually moves a little when I push on its side.
    As for your brake don't just push the pistons out then set it up, pump the brake a couple times, then try to adjust your caliper side to side so it stops rubbing, this can take some time and pacience as the tolerances are very close. If your rotor is bent a little you may need to try and straighten it out.
    That may help, but what I noticed is that the rear brake mechanism doesn't actually return to its original position like the front brake does. It feels like there is something causing too much friction within the mechanism.

  4. #4
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    Sounds like your bearings need adjustment on your hub, what hub do you have?

    Disc brake might be a sticky piston or caliper needing recentering. I don't think WD40 was a good idea in any case, doubt the solvents are good for the seals. Try the brake forum on that one.
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  5. #5
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    Ya, sounds like the hub bearings. Either they are loose or they are bad. What type of hubs are they?
    Don't use WD40 on your brakes. Use a brake lubricant or what ever type of fluid you are running in the brakes. Keep it off the pads and rotors.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 07 FSRxc
    Ya, sounds like the hub bearings. Either they are loose or they are bad. What type of hubs are they?
    Don't use WD40 on your brakes. Use a brake lubricant or what ever type of fluid you are running in the brakes. Keep it off the pads and rotors.
    I don't know. Whatever comes standard with the 7xx, I guess.

  7. #7
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    They're likely cone/cup type of bearings on your hubs, have no idea what that bike comes with in particular. If they are, adjustment isn't very hard with a couple of cone wrenches, or take it to a shop. Here's a service procedure if you want to tackle it yourself http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=105
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    So, does anyone know if I have those pieces?

  10. #10
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    The Shimano front hub is a cup/cone type, have no idea about Joytech (and a quick google came up with little to help). Try looking at the rear hub and comparing to the information in the Park link...
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  11. #11
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    The joytech look basically the same. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/hub-parts.html#cones

    I have a joytech on the front of one of my bikes. It has about 500 miles and is shot. All XC riding. I have broke it down and tried to adjust it. You will need at least one bike wrench and one regular wrench, Mine has 2 - 13mm and 2 - 17mm. The 13mm is on the inside so you need a bike specific wrench to squeez inbetween the 17mm nut. Anyway mine wobbles side to side. If I hand tighten the 13mm it start to get real hard and rough while rotating. My hub is shot.
    Its not hard to break down. just dont loose the ball bearings. Mine had 9 per side. Remember the 13mm sets the preload on the bearing and the 17mm are the lock nuts so the hub/axcel stays together. Good luck

  12. #12
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    This might help
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #13
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    They're called cone wrenches...
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  14. #14
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    Thanks for the lesson.

  15. #15
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    Okay, I managed to fix the rear wheel so that it is both sturdy and smooth. Unfortunately, after performing a similar tightening operation with the front wheel, I have another problem: the disc break in the front can never be in a position where it does not contact the disc! I tried loosening the actual breaking mechanism and fidgeting it left and right with no success. There is always the friction sound when the wheel turns!

  16. #16
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    You need to describe the rub a bit more...is it contacting both pads intermittently? Or just one and which one? You might want to go thru the manual here http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/pdf/MX...EnglishWeb.pdf
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