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  1. #1
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    Why are 2.5" tires so dang hard to find?

    So why are 2.5" tires so hard to find? I have some Timberwolf 2.5's and I love them. I have used them in a 2.7" but they drag the chain when I am on the small ring which is not that often. WTB no longer makes the Timberwolf so I guess I am SOL. I have used the Wierwolf 2.5" which I don't think they make in 2.5" anymore. The Wierwolf was ok but the wore like crap and you had to turn the rear one backwards to get any traction out of it.

    I ride on steep rocky wet technical trails where the extra grip and smoother rider are worth their weight in gold. I run 30-35psi in the rear and 20-25 psi in the front. They also last about a year on the back which is about three times as long as a Wierwolf. I ride for fun so slow don't bother me. I am more concerned that I don't break bones than I am being fast.

    Perry

  2. #2
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    is it weirwolfs specifically that you can't find, or any 2.5? there are tons of 2.5 tires out there.

  3. #3
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    Well just looking on the Nashbar and Performance bike sights there does not appear to be much out there to choose from. I have even looked on Ebay. I am not going to pay $50 for a tire LOL. On the rare occasion I find some good tires I try to stock up on them.

    Perry

  4. #4
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    I got a pair of 2.5 Prowler MX's off the bay for 20$ a while back.... It takes time to find the deals!
    The most important thing is what God thinks about it. He will have the final say. Joshua Stinebrink

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  5. #5
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    conti tk 2.4 is bigger, kenda runs big, so does spec, maxxis makes 2.5s. 2.5 really doesnt mean much as a measurement though.

  6. #6
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    shwalbes can run big as well.

  7. #7
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    B-kul is correct on the sizing - it's all over the place. There are 2.2's and 2.3's that actually measure 2.5 inches.

    I have a Conti 2.5 that measures 2.4" and another Conti 2.3 that measures 2.1 inches. So even within the same manufacturer, the actual stated sizes are all over the place. I don't know how they do it. Maybe they just flip a coin or something? LOL

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by perryg114
    Well just looking on the Nashbar and Performance bike sights there does not appear to be much out there to choose from. I have even looked on Ebay. I am not going to pay $50 for a tire LOL. On the rare occasion I find some good tires I try to stock up on them.

    Perry
    neither of those sites are very good for selection, be it tires or any other component. JensonUSA, Pricepoint, Treefort Bikes and Universal Cycles are all online shops with both good reputations and a large variety of choices.

  9. #9
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    DMR Moto Digger 2.35" is actually 2.5". A very nice tire for all but very muddy conditions.

    Cheap as well. Got mine for like 25$ a piece from Chainreaction.

    Magura

  10. #10
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    Looks like there are some pretty good deals on the Intense Invader and 909 series tires in 2.5. Anybody ever run these?

    Perry

  11. #11
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    Muddy Mary, freeride trailstar, is made in 2.5. I really like the 2.35" version in front.. With Big Betty in the rear, should be what you are looking for.

  12. #12
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    2.5 Muddy Marys and Wicked Wills keep popping up on chainlove. Keep an eye out.

  13. #13
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    They're only hard to find if you don't know where to look. Most rookie MTB riders think that there are maybe 2 or 3 places to get bike parts.

    Here's a useful suggestion.

    1) Choose what tire you want to buy.

    2) Go to Google or bing!

    3) Enter that tire's name in the "search terms" box. Hit "enter."

    4) You'll have all sorts of choices for finding tires.

    A more important question might be, why do you think you need a 2.5 tire.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ash T. Abula

    A more important question might be, why do you think you need a 2.5 tire.
    That's an easy one. Better grip,more stability and faster rolling in rugged terrain. This is especially important in the front. Although fat tires are pretty much useless on smooth hardpack.

  15. #15
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    Watch Chainlove.com. They have been selling Schwalbe's here and there for the last week.
    I have seen some 2.5 options.

  16. #16
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    Get some properly wide rims.
    Here is my 29x2.40 Ardent on 47mm wide Kris Holm.
    My pressure range is 12-14 / 16-18 PSI (210lb).
    30PSI is more than you need for the road!

    www.bartthebikeman.wordpress.com
    fast 26" road bike, shaven Racing Ralphs as road tyres, homemade "Paul thumbies"...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by perryg114
    So why are 2.5" tires so hard to find? I have some Timberwolf 2.5's and I love them. I have used them in a 2.7" but they drag the chain when I am on the small ring which is not that often. WTB no longer makes the Timberwolf so I guess I am SOL. I have used the Wierwolf 2.5" which I don't think they make in 2.5" anymore. The Wierwolf was ok but the wore like crap and you had to turn the rear one backwards to get any traction out of it.

    I ride on steep rocky wet technical trails where the extra grip and smoother rider are worth their weight in gold. I run 30-35psi in the rear and 20-25 psi in the front. They also last about a year on the back which is about three times as long as a Wierwolf. I ride for fun so slow don't bother me. I am more concerned that I don't break bones than I am being fast.

    Perry
    I have a muudy mary up for grabs on e bay right now,theres no better 2.5 tire than a muddy mary !!!!

  18. #18
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    To bad its not the DH casting version I was looking for one for my big bike.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbeck
    That's an easy one. Better grip,more stability and faster rolling in rugged terrain. This is especially important in the front. Although fat tires are pretty much useless on smooth hardpack.
    Though there are plenty of nominal 2.3-2.4" tires that also offer those qualities and nominal 2.5-2.6" tires that do not.

    Do you want a DH or lightweight casing?
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbeck
    That's an easy one. Better grip,more stability and faster rolling in rugged terrain. This is especially important in the front. Although fat tires are pretty much useless on smooth hardpack.
    So why stop at 2.5? Why not go 2.7 or 3.0? Why not get a snowbike tire? Is bigger always better? When does bigger get to be a hassle or an albatross?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ash T. Abula
    So why stop at 2.5? Why not go 2.7 or 3.0? Why not get a snowbike tire? Is bigger always better? When does bigger get to be a hassle or an albatross?
    If you don't experiment and don't try out anything different from the norm yourself, you'll never know what wide and narrow or big and small really is.
    You'll be just humbly accepting "the best" standards informally imposed on you by the manufacturers magazines and your riding buddies.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barteos
    Get some properly wide rims.
    Here is my 29x2.40 Ardent on 47mm wide Kris Holm.
    My pressure range is 12-14 / 16-18 PSI (210lb).
    30PSI is more than you need for the road!

    Funny how your Ardent has Schwalbe Racing Ralph labels and tread.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    Funny how your Ardent has Schwalbe Racing Ralph labels and tread.
    They are really Ardents. My team sponsor told me to make them look like Racing Ralphs

    Anyway they are both pretty good for their own uses and very BIG.
    www.bartthebikeman.wordpress.com
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barteos
    They are really Ardents. My team sponsor told me to make them look like Racing Ralphs

    Anyway they are both pretty good for their own uses and very BIG.


    Nice Scandal BTW
    Last edited by shiggy; 04-18-2011 at 07:54 PM.
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  25. #25
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    ... latest incarnation with real... Ardents.
    www.bartthebikeman.wordpress.com
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barteos
    Get some properly wide rims.
    Here is my 29x2.40 Ardent on 47mm wide Kris Holm.
    My pressure range is 12-14 / 16-18 PSI (210lb).
    30PSI is more than you need for the road!

    that rear tire looks suuuper light - I bet is corners like a rail
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck
    To bad its not the DH casting version I was looking for one for my big bike.
    i have 2 dh casings available

  28. #28
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    2.5 WTB Prowler MX on Chainlove right now $14.99

    2.5 WTB Prowler MX on Chainlove right now $14.99.

  29. #29
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    Thanks for all the suggestions and new places to look. 2.5 seems to be about right for my type and style of riding. 2.7's are a little too big for the rear but I have sanded the knobs on one side to keep the chain from hitting on the small ring. Most folks that ride tend to run the 2-2.25 tires at 40 psi which in my opinion is not enough volume to make for a smooth ride on rough terrain. Also most folks don't understand that about 80% of your shock absorption is tires. The high frequency low amplitude stuff won't move a fork tube. I need to give some thought to wider rims because that is free volume. More volume = lower pressure = smoother ride. Yes you pay in terms of friction but since I am old and would rather be slow and safe instead of fast and loose. I have done enough of the latter and I am paying for it now.

    And before you guys just on me about the "most folks" comment I mean your average goober that buys a mountain bike and has no real knowledge of how it works. The kind that take the bike to the shop to have a tire changed and a tune up.

    Perry

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll
    that rear tire looks suuuper light - I bet is corners like a rail
    It literally does coz I use rails to get to the trails ...
    www.bartthebikeman.wordpress.com
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  31. #31
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    If you are pushing the limits of traction in slimy conditions try looking into siping. You slice your knobs with a razor blade in a way to get more gripping edges. I agree about tires being an important part of suspension.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by perryg114
    Thanks for all the suggestions and new places to look. 2.5 seems to be about right for my type and style of riding. 2.7's are a little too big for the rear but I have sanded the knobs on one side to keep the chain from hitting on the small ring. Most folks that ride tend to run the 2-2.25 tires at 40 psi which in my opinion is not enough volume to make for a smooth ride on rough terrain. Also most folks don't understand that about 80% of your shock absorption is tires. The high frequency low amplitude stuff won't move a fork tube. I need to give some thought to wider rims because that is free volume. More volume = lower pressure = smoother ride. Yes you pay in terms of friction but since I am old and would rather be slow and safe instead of fast and loose. I have done enough of the latter and I am paying for it now.

    And before you guys just on me about the "most folks" comment I mean your average goober that buys a mountain bike and has no real knowledge of how it works. The kind that take the bike to the shop to have a tire changed and a tune up.

    Perry
    Then you need to tune your fork and shock better, or ride smoother. Set up your suspension so it works, unlike your average goober that buys a mountain bike and has no real knowledge of how it works. The kind that take the bike to the shop to have a tire changed and a tune up.

    Minion DHF 2.35 and ADvantage 2.25 with a tubeless setup. 30psi, no pinches, very comfy. Or something. There are a lot of good tires in this range.

    IMO, a smaller tire with a non-crappy tread pattern will always beat out a larger tire with crap treads. All the shock absorption means nothing if you have crap for traction The WTB meats you mention are some of the worst tires I've ever tried. Spending the money on some good tires is well worthwhile.

    YMMV.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover
    Then you need to tune your fork and shock better, or ride smoother. Set up your suspension so it works, unlike your average goober that buys a mountain bike and has no real knowledge of how it works. The kind that take the bike to the shop to have a tire changed and a tune up.

    Minion DHF 2.35 and ADvantage 2.25 with a tubeless setup. 30psi, no pinches, very comfy. Or something. There are a lot of good tires in this range.

    IMO, a smaller tire with a non-crappy tread pattern will always beat out a larger tire with crap treads. All the shock absorption means nothing if you have crap for traction The WTB meats you mention are some of the worst tires I've ever tried. Spending the money on some good tires is well worthwhile.

    YMMV.
    Amen!

    There are a few WTB tire that I like but they aren't any that were mentioned in the OP.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barteos
    Get some properly wide rims.
    Here is my 29x2.40 Ardent on 47mm wide Kris Holm.
    My pressure range is 12-14 / 16-18 PSI (210lb).
    30PSI is more than you need for the road!

    Using a wider rim than necessary just exposes more tire sidewall. End result, torn/ripped sidewall.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by dunerinaz
    Using a wider rim than necessary just exposes more tire sidewall. End result, torn/ripped sidewall.
    I have had the same experience.

    Back when a big tire was a 2.2", I tried to get around the lack of width, by using 40mm rims. The end of the story was a lot of dents and scratches in the rim, and torn sidewalls were a frequent issue, so I stopped using that "trick" rather soon.

    Now that one can have whatever size imaginable, I see no point in trying to work around buying the right size for the job.


    Magura

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barteos

    ... latest incarnation with real... Ardents.
    sketchy.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbeck
    That's an easy one. Better grip,more stability and faster rolling in rugged terrain. This is especially important in the front. Although fat tires are pretty much useless on smooth hardpack.

    Meh not always true, esp that faster rolling thing. I used to think like that too, but Ive learned over the 20+ yrs Ive been riding, bigger usually just means slower.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by perryg114
    Most folks that ride tend to run the 2-2.25 tires at 40 psi which in my opinion is not enough volume to make for a smooth ride on rough terrain. Also most folks don't understand that about 80% of your shock absorption is tires. The high frequency low amplitude stuff won't move a fork tube. I need to give some thought to wider rims because that is free volume. More volume = lower pressure = smoother ride.
    Perry
    1+
    I'm with you on this one. I don't think that many people understand that, though.
    It's like trying to explain the benefits (speed, grip, comfort) of wider tyres to roadies.
    Most of them will claim that 23mm is all you need. Same group thinking mentality
    www.bartthebikeman.wordpress.com
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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barteos
    1+
    I'm with you on this one. I don't think that many people understand that, though.
    It's like trying to explain the benefits (speed, grip, comfort) of wider tyres to roadies.
    Most of them will claim that 23mm is all you need. Same group thinking mentality
    No, I think a ton of people here understand quite well about the benefits of volume otherwise most people would still be running 2.1s front and rear. There is always an ideal size where the tradeoffs are minimized and the benefits are maximized based on the tire options in question, and for many people that just happens to fall in the less than 2.5" range.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barteos
    1+
    I'm with you on this one. I don't think that many people understand that, though.
    It's like trying to explain the benefits (speed, grip, comfort) of wider tyres to roadies.
    Most of them will claim that 23mm is all you need. Same group thinking mentality
    Nobody is suggesting 2.1 - 2.2" tires. We are talking about 2.4" tires with good volume and thread being a good substitute for 2.5".

    Your roadie friends may go to 25 or even 32, but 35 or 42 would probably an overkill, right?
    Last edited by Axe; 04-18-2011 at 10:29 AM.

  41. #41
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  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    No, I think a ton of people here understand quite well about the benefits of volume otherwise most people would still be running 2.1s front and rear. There is always an ideal size where the tradeoffs are minimized and the benefits are maximized based on the tire options in question, and for many people that just happens to fall in the less than 2.5" range.
    At any given time we have some "ideal" sizes/standards.
    Then... they change
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  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barteos
    1+
    I'm with you on this one. I don't think that many people understand that, though.
    It's like trying to explain the benefits (speed, grip, comfort) of wider tyres to roadies.
    Most of them will claim that 23mm is all you need. Same group thinking mentality
    Ok, perhaps I could have used different wording.
    What I meant was that some folks seem to question the guy's needs and preferences only because they fall outside the established, popular standards.
    www.bartthebikeman.wordpress.com
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  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by perryg114
    Thanks for all the suggestions and new places to look. 2.5 seems to be about right for my type and style of riding. 2.7's are a little too big for the rear but I have sanded the knobs on one side to keep the chain from hitting on the small ring. Most folks that ride tend to run the 2-2.25 tires at 40 psi which in my opinion is not enough volume to make for a smooth ride on rough terrain. Also most folks don't understand that about 80% of your shock absorption is tires. The high frequency low amplitude stuff won't move a fork tube. I need to give some thought to wider rims because that is free volume. More volume = lower pressure = smoother ride. Yes you pay in terms of friction but since I am old and would rather be slow and safe instead of fast and loose. I have done enough of the latter and I am paying for it now.

    And before you guys just on me about the "most folks" comment I mean your average goober that buys a mountain bike and has no real knowledge of how it works. The kind that take the bike to the shop to have a tire changed and a tune up.

    Perry
    At 40psi it is not the tire volume that reduces the ride quality. Higher volume just means you can run lower pressures for more Cush and grip without flatting.

    2.25 can be plenty big enough to run at <25psi (even a 2.1 @ 30psi) and bomb down a rough trail on a rigid bike. I do it all the time. Of course I have years of knowing how to pick good lines.
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  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    At 40psi it is not the tire volume that reduces the ride quality. Higher volume just means you can run lower pressures for more Cush and grip without flatting.

    2.25 can be plenty big enough to run at <25psi (even a 2.1 @ 30psi) and bomb down a rough trail on a rigid bike. I do it all the time. Of course I have years of knowing how to pick good lines.
    Hey. I see what you did there.
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