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  1. #1
    Lev
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    Who's riding with a 36t Chainring?

    Whatup AM folks? I'm currently in the process of revamping my drivetrain a little, and I'm curious what other peeps think who ride similar style. I'm taking off the big ring and replacing it with a bash guard on my Prophet. Right now I have a 32t middle ring, and it feels pretty solid. I prefer doing my techy climbing in that ring because it reduces wheel slippage.

    With the removal of my big ring, I am considering replacing my 32t with a 36t middle ring so that I can still hammer on the downs. The only thing is, I'm a medium sized guy (5'10 160 lb) and I'm not sure if the 36t will be overkill. The 32t still feels pretty good, but I'm not sure if I'll miss the bigger gears in the long run.

    Any thoughts from anyone else who has been through this one? Thanks all

    Lev

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    Ill let you know in 2 days when the correct backplate for my DRS arrives. Im in the same boat as you except I just went ahead and ordered it.

  3. #3
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    A lot of bikes now set up with 2 rings and I know on my Gemini that I spin out 32 and that a 36 would be better.
    If you dont have problems climbing on your small 22 then you could upside to have a 26 and 36 rings.
    On my hardtail (Azonic DS1) I ran a chainguide on a 32 with a 11-34 cassette to have enough gears to climb and decend but grunt and grind or walk really steep climbs.

    Good riding

  4. #4
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    36/24 front (with bash)
    11/32 rear

    BLT with
    Pike 454
    XO
    King and Easton componets.

    Never really missed the big ring (44).

    Cheers
    Ecka

  5. #5
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    I run an 11-32 chainring w/ bashguard, and an 8spd 11-32 cassette, and so far I've only spun out going downhill on a few occasions.
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  6. #6
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    I recently got rid of my 44 ring and replcaed it with a bash and currently have 22/32. I do most of my climbing in the 32 ring and on about 98% of the downhills don't miss the 44. The other 2% are fast fire roads and mellow flat XC type terrain - this is where I start to miss the 44 and I am also thinking of a 34 or 36 gear. The switch would make it more difficult to do very steep climbs though.

  7. #7
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    At the end of last year I asked the same question. By the end of the season, I got pretty strong from riding a singlespeed and found I was spinning out my 32T on my geared bike (big ring replaced with a bashguard) regularly. I bought the 36T ring, but didn't get around to installing it until ~2 weeks ago. I was off the bike all winter and spring, and the 36T is too big now (I was falling back to the granny for practically all the climbs on a recent ride), so I'll be swapping the 32T back at least for a month or two.

    I didn't find a big difference in shifting from the 22T to the 36T (RaceFace Atlas crankset with RF rings), especially since going up would normally done without a load. Shifting down just worked.

  8. #8
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    I'm runnin' a 26-36t-bash & e13 DRS w/an 11-34 cassette. Race Face rings on Saint cranks. Jumping from 32 to 34 mid ring = no prob. 34 to 36 very noticable. 22 to 24 granny = no prob. 24 to 26 very noticable. If possible, but not necessary, try to stay w/in 10 teeth of ea. other on your chainrings. Drive trains are sorta developed around that perameter I think. 26 & 36t rings, for me, required a staught leg. Steep, long, drawn out climbs will build your endurance w/those chainrings AND make you a very effecient climber, IF you got th' fitness fer it.
    "Why are you willing to take so much & leave others in need...just because you can?"

  9. #9
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    I went with a larger chainring for the very same reason on my big bike. I was spinning out on the faster downhills in the bike park. Probably not as big of a deal with my AM or XC bikes, but it is something I'm considering when my chainrings wear out.

    22 - 36 up front - Race Face and Blackspire chainrings
    Truvativ 36 T bashguard
    11- 34 in the back
    Holzfeller cranks
    Blackspire stinger chainguide

    I've had no issues with shifting between the 22 and 36, but I was anticipating that I'd need to move up to a 24 or 26 in the granny when I got it. So far, so good with the 22-36 combo. In all honesty, I'm not shifting my front all that often on rides. It's granny for climbs and middle ring for descents as we do lots of climb and drops.

    Cheers,
    EBX

  10. #10
    Lev
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    Anyone else heard of staying within 10 teeth of eachother on the chainrings? Sounds unfamiliar. Can't imagine that making any difference granted the chain is long enough.

  11. #11
    Just roll it......
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lev
    Anyone else heard of staying within 10 teeth of eachother on the chainrings? Sounds unfamiliar. Can't imagine that making any difference granted the chain is long enough.
    yeah....some say 10T and some say 12T. It doesn't matter about the chain length because you set that for your big ring (whatever the size is).

    Basically, the concept is that you shouldn't have too big of a jump between chainrings to avoid shifting issues. That is why I said I expected to have issues when I went with 22-36 (a 14T difference), but I haven't had any problems yet.

    Cheers,
    EBX

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebxtreme
    yeah....some say 10T and some say 12T. It doesn't matter about the chain length because you set that for your big ring (whatever the size is).

    Basically, the concept is that you shouldn't have too big of a jump between chainrings to avoid shifting issues. That is why I said I expected to have issues when I went with 22-36 (a 14T difference), but I haven't had any problems yet.

    Cheers,
    EBX
    Shiftin' issues is exactly what I was talkin' about. Sorry I didn't clarify. Sometimes chains will drop off of th' granny when you shift from mid-ring to granny. I've got RM Reaper ht w/22-32 rings on it an' it will drop a chain faster than a vet will bust a cap into a dixie chicks tour bus.
    "Why are you willing to take so much & leave others in need...just because you can?"

  13. #13
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    SIngle 36 up front, and couldn't be happier.


  14. #14
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    I run a 24/36t with an e13 DRS bashguard havent missed the big ring yet, but you do have to be careful about crossing up the chain. So normal chain ring rules apply when shifting and if your front derailer isnt set up perfect with the e13 DRS shifting to the 36t is hell on your drivetrain so I would suggest getting the 36t but set it up the right way.

  15. #15
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    34/24

    34/24 front and bash
    11/24 rear just about covers it all.

  16. #16
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    22-36-bash up front, 11-34 casette in back. Works well.

  17. #17
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    my FR/heavy duty TR bike has 22/36 combo up front, and evil guide. works very well, upshifts well. race face 36T ring, FSA granny, FSA cranks.

    there's this common myth that a 14T gap is too much, but if you ask around you'll find a lot of riders (i'm tempted to use the term 'core') in high-vert terrain (cali, colorado) using this setup. I almost have started using this question as way to separate the good bike shops from the less knowledgeable.

    for the climbs i do, there's no way i'd go bigger than a 22T granny. at the same time, for the descents 32 is too small.

  18. #18
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    I just switched from 22-32-44 to 26-36 and I love it.
    You can hammer pretty fast with a 36 and the 26 climbs with less slippage than a 22.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by fumanchuchu
    I just switched from 22-32-44 to 26-36 and I love it.
    You can hammer pretty fast with a 36 and the 26 climbs with less slippage than a 22.
    EXACTLY!!!
    "Why are you willing to take so much & leave others in need...just because you can?"

  20. #20
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    22/34 front, 11x34 back, can maintain high teens (20+ in outright sprint) on flats so pedalling harder than that for downhills simply not required.

    I put on a BlackSpire DH ring for the 34 - no pins and ramps for shifting, but shifts just fine from the granny up, and less possibility of chainsuck when things are grimy. Works great.

    Only downside I've found so far is the increase in chain slack when on the smaller end of the cassette, that would not be there with a big-ring. If it's a long run I just shift up the cassette and don't worry about pedalling so much.

  21. #21
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    I run a 22t-36t-bash guard on a VP Free and a Turner 6 Pack. Set up works fine on both bikes and neither was difficult to set up. I ditched the 32t for a 36t because I was spinning out on some downhills. Kept the 22t granny because most of my rides include lots of steep/tough climbs.

  22. #22
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    22-36-bash and 11-32 here.

    The 36t ring makes more sense than a 34t, feed it into a gear calculator and you'll see why.

    still shifts w/o problems (LX front der), just make sure you get a quality chainring with good ramps.

    shimano front ders are officially built for gaps up to 12t, but they can take 14t.
    wanted: Cannondale Lefty w/ V-brake studs

  23. #23
    Lev
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    So what would be a good quality chain ring with solid ramps in your opinion. Planning to order the goods soon and I'm considering a Salsa or a shimano. I need a 4 bolt. Was checking out Race Face, but I think all theirs were 5 bolt. Suggestions?

  24. #24
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    I've got a 19T Granny on my ancient rigid DB Topanga

    Quote Originally Posted by frorider
    for the climbs i do, there's no way i'd go bigger than a 22T granny. at the same time, for the descents 32 is too small.
    Back in '86 I bought a bolt -on hub that fit in front of your smallest chaintooth ring, called the "Mountain Tamer" that would take any freewheel ring you wanted to use as a chainring, (back when you could build your own freewheel). I ran a 19-24-32 front (and since I couldn't use the outer-ring anymore it became my bashy).

    I never missed the "outer" ring and loved the "super" granny here in Front Range CO. Of course my freewheel set was only 11-32. All of my rides were "grind it up", super techy down. Pedal on a downhill ?? What for, you're already going dowhill and where I ride I'm usually not going much faster down than up except on a few "flats"

    Anything bigger than a 36 chainring is for the XC crowd.
    .
    .
    .
    .
    But now I have a new Prophet 1000 FS ride and crank it to the max whenever the trail slightly tips down hill. I still keep the speed down in any tech section but love the feeling of really ripping down the smooth sections now w/a FS bike

  25. #25
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    Race Face

    Race Face Race Ring 104 BCD x 36t x 4h

  26. #26
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    22t/36t/bash e.13 DRS

    I just recently moved from a 32t to a 36t and I do notice a difference, but it's all good. I haven't had any problems with shifting (XT front der and X.9 rear der. / X.9 triggers) and 11-34t cassette, XT cranks with Blackspire 36t.

    I definitely notice a difference with the 36t yet i'm still able to ride most of my trails in the 36t ring. The 22t still allows me to climb just about anything and the 36t gives me the extra power when i need it. I'll see if I keep the 36t ring during the winter. May switch back to 32t b/c I seem to slow down a bit during the winter months.

    -enduro

  27. #27
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    Can anybody comment on how the 36T performs on the street as a commuter. Right now I'm on a 32T, and I can't decide whether to replace with a 36T or just remove the bash and put on a 42T. The problem is that I also use my rig to commute (road) and the 32T ain't cutting it, but I really want to avoid adding a third cog.

  28. #28
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    I use mine for road riding and it works fine. My dad road next to me on his 8 speed and when I was on 36-11 he was on his 44 and pedaling the same speed as me between the 3rd and 4th cog. So its not that much different.

  29. #29
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    shoot, you guys must be bored stiff coming off downhill fireroads and stuff without a 44T

    i can get aroung town on it too
    "He can make even a global summit meeting seem like a kegger." M. Dowd, NY Times, 19 July 2006

  30. #30
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    I run 22/32 and I really like it. it's good on climbs and for going down, the only time I miss the 42 is on the road. I also run a single 38 on my DH bike and it's just too big to be spinning with 165 cranks. I'd stick with the 22/32 setup

  31. #31
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    My experience

    I recently added an E13 DRS to my Heckler and at the same time, obviously, got rid of the big ring, upped the middle ring to a 36T and kept the granny at 22T. I have a 32T middle ring before. I have an 11-34 cassette in the back. I thought I was strong enough to really enjoy having the 36 middle but I am finding it to be a heck of a lot of effort on the climbs. It's great on the downhills though. Here in the SF Bay Area there is a good bit of climbing involved on most any trail so I feel like I am getting worked with the 36T. I am considering going to a 34T and giving that a try. I think a 24/34 combo would be very nice. On my Bullit I still have a 22/32 Bash setup also with an 11/34 in the rear. The Bullit is easier to ride than my Heckler now and it weighs nearly 5LBS more than my Heckler.

  32. #32
    Lev
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    Hey everyone,

    After taking all your posts into consideration, I ended up with the 34t bash combo. And I'm happy as hell with it. Definitely enjoy having a little more power with the higher gears, and I was still able to do 90% of my climbing in the middle ring. Thanks for your ideas. Maybe a 36t next time? For now I'm feelin good. Peace all

    Lev

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lev
    Hey everyone,

    After taking all your posts into consideration, I ended up with the 34t bash combo. And I'm happy as hell with it. Definitely enjoy having a little more power with the higher gears, and I was still able to do 90% of my climbing in the middle ring. Thanks for your ideas. Maybe a 36t next time? For now I'm feelin good. Peace all

    Lev
    I didn't notice th' change from 32 to 34t too much. Now when I went from 34 to 36t it felt like a bigger jump. Best to go from 32 to 34 for a'lil bit then to th' 36. You'll be ready for a change before long....an' th' 36t will be waitin' on ya !
    "Why are you willing to take so much & leave others in need...just because you can?"

  34. #34
    my girl rides also
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    I just swiched from a 22/32 and roadie 11-26 (or something) to an 11-34, 22/36. Got to love being able to hammer with the larger ring.

    scott
    Moving to Montana soon, gonna be a dental floss tycoon.

  35. #35
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    slightly moldy thread but im already here and too lazy =)

    anyone try running say a single 26t or 28t up front, with the the usual 11-34 in back? would like to eliminate the frontside drivetrain components alltogether. unfortunatley this would have to go in the small ring, a 30t is about as small as you can go in the middle. maybe run a longer bb? trail use only of course

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